KR> Know it's not Friday, but....

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Congratulations on the new KR builder, Glad mom and baby are doing fine. And 
don't pay attention to Bob, he can do his own cooking.

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S


-- Original message --
From: Keith & Martha Crawford 
>
> 
> We had our baby!
> 
> Check out the pics and stats on our website.
> 
> Keith and Martha Crawford
> mar...@simerson.net
> http://martha.simerson.net
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Vacuum bagging you say?

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Here is a good site for low cost and low tech vacuum bagging process.

http://www.cozygirrrl.com/lovac.htm


--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

KR> 3100 cc

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Joe, I LIKE YOUR STYLE

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Joseph H. Horton" 
> I can wait, Gosh Mark take your time and enjoy all that Minnesota
> has to offer. Isn't there someone there you need to visit. I hear a
> person could get snowed in for weeks there. I hope that don't happen to
> you! ;-o 
> Joe Horton, Coopersburg, PA.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR> aluminium fuel tanks

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Here is a link to some CAD drawings I made from Mark J's fuel tanks.

http://home.att.net/~e.j.pitts/wing_tanks.PDF

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "stefenmarl...@tiscali.nl" 
> Last week there was a discussion about alu fuel tanks. Somebody dropped 
> a link from his alu fuel made bij Dana Overall. This link doesn`t work.
> 
> Is it possible someone put a new one. 
> 
> Thanks Stef den Boer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> aluminium fuel tanks

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

It looks that way to account for the cuts and bends in the metal. But it works 
out ok.

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Dan Heath" 
> Why is the tank bottom rectangular and the top trapezoid?  I would have
> thought that they would be about the same shape. 
>  
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
> See you at the 2007 - KR Gathering
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
> has begun.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> ---Original Message---
>  
>  
> Here is a link to some CAD drawings I made from Mark J's fuel tanks.
>  
> http://home.att.net/~e.j.pitts/wing_tanks.PDF
>  
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> new forum

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

I feel your pain, as I can still only get dailup myself. I am looking at 
satellite 

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Martindale Family" 
> Folks
> 
> I find the internet forum fine when I'm on broadband at home and I can see it 
> has lots of advantages. Problem is in Australia that a lot of places still 
> operate under dial up (some have only just got a telephone!!) and that is 
> simply 
> too slow for the forum to operate well. I vote for the current system to 
> remain 
> for this reason. It is also the reason why our flight plan submission system 
> retains both dial up and internet options. 
> 
> 
> John Martindale
> 29 Jane Circuit
> TOORMINA NSW 2452
> AUSTRALIA
>  
> phone:  61 2 66584767 (H)
>  61 2 66869075 (W)
> mobile:  0403 049990
> email:johnja...@optusnet.com.au
> web: www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Hydraulic brakes

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Check out Tracy O'brian KR brake and axle setup, that is what I went with. They 
work just like the ones on our F-16's at work

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Myron (Dan) Freeman" 
> Hi guy's;
> 
> I've been researching hydraulic brakes for the KR to use with the Diehl gear 
> legs. I searched the archives, not much help except brand names and it looks 
> like Ken Brock is out of business so I guess that leaves Cleveland and Matco 
> and 
> as I recall most of you are using 5" wheels and brakes. So is there an 
> overwhelming preference for one or the other? I've got the R/R mechanical 
> shoe 
> brakes, tires and wheels now but I might be able to use the 3:40/3:00 x 5 
> tires 
> and wheels over, I don't know. Your thoughts will be appreciated.
> 
> Regards
> Myron (Dan) Freeman
> Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA
> mfreem...@indy.rr.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cam breakin - Long

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

I read a post on another list about breaking in a new CAM and thought I would 
do some more checking. I wanted to make sure of what he was saying. So this 
info is from Crane CAMS. It has some good info about what oil to use for 
breaking in the engine.

Due to the EPA’s mandate for zinc removal from most
motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure
is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic
and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. As a point
of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet
camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which
the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes.
There are some oils with additive packages that are better
for camshaft “break-in”. These include: Shell Rotella
T oil; Chevron Delo 400; and Mobil DELVAC oil. These
oils are listed as diesel oils, but work great for flat camshaft
“break-in”. We also recommend the use of Crane
Cams # 99003-1 Break-in lube or GM “E.O.S.” (Engine
Oil Supplement) Assembly Lubricant # 1052367. These
should be poured over the lifters and camshaft prior to
start up.
CAUTION: We do not recommend the use of synthetic
oils for “break-in” because they are too slippery. This
characteristic reduces the tendency of the lifter to rotate
on the camshaft lobe and mate properly. Prior to installing
the camshaft and lifters, it is recommended that the
crankcase be drained and filled with new, clean oil. The
oil filter should also be changed at this time.
Proper flat tappet camshaft break-in starts with the cam
installation and includes the following steps:

1. Before installing the camshaft and lifters,
wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits
to remove the rust preventative that is placed
on the cam before shipping. NOTE: As a
“rule of thumb”, always thoroughly clean any
part before installing it in an engine. Never
“assume” that the parts are cleaned before
packaging. During shipping, packaging material
can rub into the component surface and
must be removed!
2. DO NOT “pump-up” hydraulic lifters before
use. This can cause the lifters to hold a valve
open during engine cranking, which will
cause low compression. The low compression
will delay engine start-up and is very
detrimental to proper camshaft “break-in”.
3. Lube the bottom of the lifters with the moly
paste provided with the cam. Lube the sides
of the lifters with oil. Lube the camshaft lobes
with the moly paste supplied with the cam.
4. Install the camshaft, lifters and timing set.
Lubricate the tips of the pushrods with motor
oil before installation.
5. Set your valve lash or lifter preload. Try to
minimize the number of times that you rotate
the engine, as this can displace the moly
paste from the lobes and lifters.
6. If possible prime the oiling system. When
priming, rotate the engine at least one complete
revolution to assure oil gets to all valve
train components.
7. Preset the ignition to start the engine at a fast
idle. Keep in mind that with many engines,
when the timing chain sprockets have their
marks at 6 o’clock on the cam sprocket and
12 o’clock on the crank sprocket that the
number 1 cylinder is at TDC at the end of the
exhaust stroke. For the ignition to fire the
number 1 cylinder on start up, the number 1
cylinder must be at TDC at the end of the
COMPRESSION stroke. That frequently requires
rolling the engine through 1 additional
revolution and putting the timing marks at 12
o’clock on both sprockets. Check your service
manual or watch the action of your rockers
to determine which stroke you are on.
Both valves will be seated at the end of the
compression stroke. The exhaust will be just
closing at the end of the exhaust stroke.
8. Fire up the engine and bring the engine to a
fast idle between 1500 and 3000 RPM. Do
not worry about getting the ignition timing set
perfectly at this time. Get the engine running
fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed
from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow, to moderate,
acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this
time, be sure to check for any leaks and
check out any unusual noises. If something
doesn’t sound right, shut the engine off and
check out the source of the noise. Upon restart,
resume the high idle speed cycling.
Continue the varying “break-in” speed for 20-
30 minutes. This is necessary to provide
proper lifter rotation to properly mate each
lifter to its lobe.
9. Let the engine cool, and then drain the
crankcase and properly dispose of the oil
filter. Refill the crankcase with the proper
viscosity and API service index recommended
by the engine manufacturer. This
should be a mineral oil, not a synthetic oil.
At this point the initial “break-in” is complete. You can
drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend
changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. We strongly
recommend mineral oils with flat tappet camshafts to help
assure proper lifter rotation.. You might want to put another
5000 miles on the cam before switching to synthetic,
if that is your preference.

KR> Elevator Pushrod

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Try Wicks @ www.wicks.com


--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: mtmcgo...@aol.com
 There was a 
> tapered  aluminum part that the balljoint screwed into and was then riveted 
> to 
> the 
>  tubing. Anyone know where those can be bought other than Van's or Skystar?

KR> Elevator Pushrod

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/pushrod.html

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: mtmcgo...@aol.com
The pushrod was  
> about 1 1/4 inch in diameter and used balljoint [heim] ends. There was a 
> tapered  aluminum part that the balljoint screwed into and was then riveted 
> to 
> the 
>  tubing. Anyone know where those can be bought other than Van's or Skystar?

KR> 2lb. Foam for PETER KAREN GAUTHIER

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

I looked into Aircraft spruce foam and could not find any that stated 
compressive strength, can you tell me where you found this info?

Thanks

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "PETER KAREN GAUTHIER" 
>   The "Styrofoam FB" board sold by Aircraft spruce is 40 
> psi compressive strength.  Now I don't know what or if there is a correlation 
> between compressive strength to sheer strength but they are both important 
> properties of core material.  > Pete Gauthier
> KR builder
> Woodburn, OR

KR> Strobes and more

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

For those looking for strobe systems and LED lights check this site.

http://www.strobesnmore.com/

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

KR> 2lb. Foam

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Where do you live? And would you ship it out?

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Eric Kelsheimer" 
> Thanks for the reply and I will stick with the 2lb. foam. This place 
> is less than half of what wicks or Aircraft Spruce is on the same thing so 
> its going to be much cheeper. 1"x4'x8' is only $22.81 a sheet and the 
> 2"x4'x8' is $ 45.63 :)
> 
> 
> > Mark should agree with me on this and that's the higher density is
> > definitely more weight. Stick with the 2# density.
> >
> > Fred Johnson
> > Reno, NV
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
> > Behalf Of Eric Kelsheimer
> > Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 1:19 PM
> > To: KRnet
> > Subject: Re: KR> 2lb. Foam
> >
> >  Thanks to all who replied I have found a place close to home
> > to
> > buy the Last-A-Foam the factory is not to far from me. Probably 75 or 80
> >
> > miles away. Now for the other question would a higher density foam be
> > better
> > or should I stick with the 2 lb. stuff ?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> T'was the night before Christmas (KR) style

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

Very nice

--
Eric Pitts
Terre Haute, Indiana
KR2S

 -- Original message --
From: "Robert Evans" 
> T'WAS NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS (KR STYLE)
> 
>  
> 
> T'was the night before Christmas, and all through the land,
> 
> all KR pilots and builders felt humbled, yet grand.
> 
> Their birds were all nestled in their hangars with care,
> 
> Some flying, under construction, or needing minor repair.
> 
> I'd just finished flying my first ever flight
> 
> In my KR2 conventional, taildragger, white.
> 
> The elation that was in my heart did abound,
> 
> I'd managed to get my bird off the ground.
> 
> I'd toiled and troubled for many a day,
> 
> Just to reach that moment in history's way.
> 
> Now back on the ground, and inside the nest,
> 
>  I was tucking my little KR in for a rest.
> 
> Inspecting the wings, canopy, and gear,
> 
> When up on the roof, a clamor I did hear.
> 
> I ran out the doors to see what was the matter,
> 
> Curious to find out the cause of the clatter.
> 
> I ran to the tarmac, and turned around to spy,
> 
> On what had possibly lost it's ability to fly.
> 
> It was good ol St. Nicholas, with his 8 steed's and sleigh
> 
> On the roof of my hangar, what an end to my day.
> 
> I shouted up "Santa, Merry Christmas" his way,
> 
> He turned and smiled as he fed his reindeer some hay.
> 
> He gently climbed to down where I was standing,
> 
> And said "I was watching you on that last landing"
> 
> "You did fine on your 3 point landing" he said with a smile,
> 
> "but you need to work on your approaches a while"
> 
> "I bring you a gift, that only KR pilot's receive",
> 
> "from the one who's been flying once yearly, with no reprieve"
> 
> I said "What is it Santa?, is it in your bag there?"
> 
> He said" No my fellow pilot, it's everywhere"
> 
> I give to you knowledge, wisdom, and friends to turn to,
> 
> When things on your airplane, just don't seem to do.
> 
> Friends in countries all over the world,
> 
> Easily accessed by one URL.
> 
> http://www.krnet.org  
> 
> you can ask anything of the collective KR Borg.
> 
> Then he scampered back to his sleigh and  8 steeds,
> 
> I've never seen anything have such take off speed!
> 
> As he reached pattern altitude and turned crosswind to 01
> 
> I heard him say "tell the builders/pilots to be sure and have fun."
> 
> "There's lots of information to build those birds right".
> 
> "Make sure everything's in order before your first flight"
> 
> Then he left the flight pattern, and he climbed out of sight,
> 
> I heard "Merry Christmas to all, and to all a great flight"
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html