KR> DIEHL LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ol' weirdo]

Would someone be kind enough to submit to the group or to me the size of
the blank one must have to cut out the Diehl landing gear legs. With the
Canadian dollar trading at 75 cent US the thought importing them just
doesn't exist. And there is a firm nearby that sells cutoffs.

Thanks

Bill Weir

KR> RANGE

[ol' weirdo]

Colin Hales, wing tanks and undercarriages have come up in the group
discussions Colin has an inverted U of aluminum for the undercarriage of
his KR2. Her is his description of it. " My undercarriage is made of 7075
T6 Aluminum. It's 4 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick bar that is then bent
cold. When I tried to bend it to shape I kept snapping it and it took some
experimenting to be able to shape it in to the correct profile I needed. It
is very strong and springy. I'll attach some photos of the press I needed
to bend it and the continual moving technique to bend it to stop the
localised work hardening" [ I can?t find the pictures] There was a KR2
project from California that was for sale. There was a picture. I has an
inverted U undercarriage. And if one were to Google "project G-" one
could see how its builder attached the inverted U to his Taylor Monoplane.


As Colin flies through eastern Russia he has been challenged to have enough
range in his KR2. He has been reduced to bladder tanks in the copilot's
side of the plane. The moral of the story is that if one is building a KR
to provide as much room for fuel as possible. In extreme this means cowl
tank to keep the cg forward as well as wing tanks behind the main spar that
will tend to move it back. My own project has fittings on the front of the
main spar next the floor to attach an external tank of the occasion ever
arises. Yes I know, there could be a problem with exhaust from the engine.


Colin has become a friend. He came to visit last summer and landed at
Stratford Ontario. He spent 3 or 4 days. Met some of my flying friends and
got over to Kitchener and met Gary Wolf the president of RAA CANADA, the
equivalent to EAA US and LAA UK and the rest of the national groups.
Colin's adventures are certainly an inspiration KRers and flyes generally.


Bill Weir

KR> TRIGEAR KR2

[ol' weirdo]

Hi Mark,

You had for sale ,or sold a KR2 that was described as having a retractable
trigear undercarriage that was being converted to a taildrager. I wonder if
you could describe how the trigear retract was done?
Thanks.

BillWeir

KR> RUDDER SIZE

[ol' weirdo]

Just to say thanks for responses re rudder size. Would seen plan size to 10
percent larger seems to be consensus.

Bill Weir

KR> RUDDER SIZE

[ol' weirdo]

Would appreciate any comments any of you would have concerning the size of
the KR2 rudder. Is it too small, is it larger than required, or is it just
right?
Thanks,
Bill Weir

KR> M1 KR1

[ol' weirdo]

I've lost the reference. If the party who was searching for a "boat" to
start a "original" KR1 would make contact with me perchance we can work out
something. Contact through this chat group or my email "wmiweirgtmail com"
or landline 5194610593.

Bill Weir


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KR> PARACHUTES

[ol' weirdo]

Colin hales makes an interesting point re parachutes. Is baling out an
acceptable action if one is caught on top?

Bill Weir


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KR> PINK FOAM

[ol' weirdo]

I seem to be missing something. Where did the pink foam story start?

Bill Weir

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KR> LANDING GEAR

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing gear? I
know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?

Bill Weir

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KR> TOOLS

[ol' weirdo]

Larry Fiesner suggest that a small drilpres is a tool that one really
requires if one is going to build a KR or any aircraft really.

I saw on another builder site where there the drillpress column came up
through a hole in the table. Seems like a very good idea. One can lay those
long pieces on the table and drill them in place rather than trying to
contrive some way to hold them up to the drillpress. Complexity can soon
get out of hand but maybe two holes in the table, one quite near the edge
and one farther back, the drillpress base on locking casers and a collar
around the drillpress column where it comes through the table top.

Bill Weir.
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KR> WING ATTACH FIYYINGS

[ol' weirdo]

maybe the wing attach fitting problem could be approached this way. Use a
die grinder and enlarge the holes of the outside WAFs. Make "washers"
having holes reamed to 3/8th and lay them on the fitting, put the bolt
through and make sure everything in in alignment. Now a spot of weld or
jbweld to hold the washers on the WASs. Here is decision time. Either weld
the "Washers on the WAFs and use them or use the fitting with the washer as
pattern to make new WAFs.

Billweir.. .

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KR> INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM

[ol' weirdo]

Don't you fellows remember when the windshield wipers were driven by
a vacuum motor connected to the intake manifold? Open the throttle and go
blind. Not a good idea for an airplane.

Bill Weir

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KR> CHRISTMAS POEMS

[ol' weirdo]

I seem to have lost my copies of the KR Christmas poems. Would someone who
has them please send them so I can capture them and save them with care and
use them in our RAA Chapter newsletter?

Thanks

Bill Weir

KR> DOWNLOAD

[ol' weirdo]

Thanks Phil.

That is one fantastic KR [or anything}!

Billweir

KR> WEB PAGES AND PHOTOS

[ol' weirdo]

Phil Matheson

What web pages and photos?

Billweir

KR> WAFs

[ol' weirdo]

Thanks to those who told me where to fin the drawings for the WAFs. We are
in process.

Bill Weir

KR> WING ATTACH FITTINGS

[ol' weirdo]

Now that I've found someone to make the WAFs I can't find the drawing.
Whether I've lost a sheet or haven't looked hard enough but I'm stuck.
Would someone please tell me where to look or if I have lost the sheet send
me the drawings? Attachment?

Thanks

Bill Weir

KR> 200 MPH KR

[ol' weirdo]

The 200 mph KR has come back on the stage. Here are some thought thereto.

In the back of the hangar we have a KR1. It is not and never will be in
flying condition. It's ancestry is unknown. I gave Jay $300.00 for it which
is what he had given Hank who is gone now and we will never know where he
acquired it. It is a second generation KR1 with the four Lord motor mounts
in the firewall and the large hinged canopy. It has become mock-up to our
main project and an educational project with grandson.


 With the canopy off and the cowling over the gas tank removed the whole
fuselage is exposed. That is when 200mph conjecturing starts. Suppose we
move the firewall back to the main spar and the pilot back so that his/her
knees are above the rear spar. The fuselage is extended to keep it wide
enough to accommodate the pilot's shoulders and maybe a bit more. This
opens a wide possibility for engine. Some where approaching 200 horsepower
is required. Lycoming and Continental make engines in that range but if one
wants to go all the way there are auto based engines with Chev Corvette
based ones most available.


 At some point we have been here before. The Percival Mew Gull of British
air racing during the 1930s comes to mind. It was about the size of our KR
based design. It had a 233 hp Gypsy Six and a top speed of well over our
benchmark 200mph. Alex Henshaw set the to South Africa and back [6000+
miles] in 1939 in G-AEXF hand flying with a compass.


 For 200 mph there probably not be muck KR1 left but one must start
somewhere.


 Bill Weir

KR> KITPLANES KR ARTICLE

[ol' weirdo]

I have EVERY Kitplanes. I will go through them and scan the KR article.
When my grandson comes this weekend I will have him make them into a
package and send it to the group.

Bill Weir

KR> LOAD TESTING

[ol' weirdo]

If wing spars or whatever are being load tested, rather than make sandbags
one could go to the garden centre or agriculture supply and borrow bags of
chemical fertilizer. They will already have their weight printed on them
and so on.

Bill Weir

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone cut down and used Grumman Yankee surplus landing gear legs for
his/her KR2?
And if you did, how did you do it?

Bill Weir

KR> (no subject)

[ol' weirdo]

This article by Dudley Pattison is from Light Aviation, the magazine of
Light Aircraft Association, the British equivalent to EAA, RAA [Canada] RSA
[France] and so on. The Flitzer is a biplane of all wood construction
including the cowl over the cockpit where plywood is curved over laminated
bows. The first part is wasted on KR builders but the latter section about
applying aluminium to the plywood may be of help to KR builders suffering
from Mustang envy.


 ?I described my method of fixing heavier duty aluminium panels

to a wooden structure with the use of 'nutserts'. Here I want to describe
the preparatory work I do in readiness for affixing a very lightweight
aluminium skin to a structure. The non-modellers among you may not know the
glass cloth and epoxy form of skinning. With a little care and a fair bit
of elbow grease, a very good, totally weatherproof, light and strong
surface finish can be achieved. I covered the forward upper decking area of
the Flitzer ZIR using this method as, later, aluminium litho plate was to
be stuck to this area for aesthetic reasons. To get a really good finish
you could see three

coats being required with a wet and dry rub between. For my purposes. only
the fact that the skinning will tougher and seal the plywood surface is
important, so two coats would suffice. lt is also an ideal preparation for
a high quality paint finish on ply or wooden surfaces.


 *THE METHOD*

1] Lay the glass cloth over the area to be covered. used 0.6 ounce per
square yard. Don't worry. if all you can get is 0.9 or 1 oz as it will end
up at about the same weight. The lighter cloths are more open weaves so a
little more epoxy is required to fill it brings the finished job to about
the same weight.

2] Mix lay-up epoxy resin [not the five minute variety] at the correct mix
ratio and pour a little in the centre of the cloth. Using an old credit-card
as a squeegee, spread the epoxy in all directions out from the centre pool.

All whiteness will disappear from the cloth as it turns transparent,
indicating that it has been wetted right through. If you have any
?nutserts? take
care not to fill them with epoxy. Do not try to mix enough epoxy to do the
job in one go; mixed epoxy left in quantity gets fed up with waiting and
exotherms meaning it get

super-hot and quickly sets as it boils!

3] Pay particular attention to the edges of the job, ensuring that the
cloth is wetted all the way to the edge - a little beyond doesn't hurt.

4] Check the area all over for dry spots and, more importantly, 'over wet'
areas. The wet areas show up as being very glossy and are an unnecessary
weight addition. Keep squeegeeing them, scraping the excess epoxy off the
edge of the squeegee back into the mixing pot.

5] After allowing it to cure, trim the edges of the cloth with a sharp
craft knife. A sanding block will remove excess epoxy at the edges.

Sand the area all over, removing the gloss finish. Any runs can be scraped
down with a sharp wide chisel held at 90. to the surface,

or use a proper scraper if you have one.

6] Wipe down with a tack cloth to remove dust. Make another mix of epoxy
and apply another thin coat all over. Much less will be required for this
coat as the weave of the cloth is already nearly full and none will be
soaking into the plywood surface. A very thin coat should give a gloss finish
this time. When cured, flat down and remove dust. Voila! You have a sealed
surface that will accept a contact adhesive to fix the litho plate
aluminium or a two-pack hi-build primer surface for your paint job.

A smallish amount at a time, which is poured out on the job quickly so as
not to allow the possibility of excess heat build-up, is the way to go. To
do my front decking I made four mixes. This could have been cut to three if
my quantity estimation had been better.

I used this method of applying aluminum litho plate for my Isaac's
Fury. Thinking
back, however, I realise that it wasn't Iitho plate on the Fury, but thin
commercial grade aluminium. This proved to be the wrong decision as the
aluminium had a surface 'grain' that took many hours of sanding and
polishing to remove, whereas with litho plate

a polished finish is readily achieved with a small polish and far less
effort.


 *What is litho plate*

Litho plate is the thin [0.3mm] aluminium sheet that comes in drawing paper
size ? A3, A2. A1, A0 and so on. Offset litho print shops use it as part of
the print process. Normally, when the print run is finished the litho plate
is considered scrap and can often be procured at no charge - one more
benefit So, the second-hand plate comes to you etched on one side with whatever
the printer was producing and with a clean aluminium surface on the other.
The plate is very light and of a grade that is maleable which is why
aeromodlers started using it years ago.

I use 3M Scotch-Weld 10 after reading that it was the choice of car
homebuilders for sticking aluminium to plywood to make their

vintage-style car 

KR> COLIN HALES

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone heard from Colin Hales. The world wind map showed an east wind
over Iceland and I wonder if he made it to Greenland.

Bill Weir
Ontario CA

KR> COLOIN HALES

[ol' weirdo]

Hi Colin,

I hope this gets to you via KR chat.

We have communicated before re your coming to Canada and on to Oshkosh etc.

If yoy would care to send your bike to me I will care for it until you
arrive. I'm at London Ontario which will be on your route.

Phone 519-461-0593

wmiweir at gmail.com

Bill Weir

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone made landing gear legs from the fiberglass rear springs that
Pontiac used on vans a while ago?

Bill Weir

KR> RE RUDDER CABLES

[ol' weirdo via KRnet]

If you are building in Canada you will be required to use 1/8 cable unless
the design specifically specifies other. Them's the rules and the delegated
inspector will check.

Bill Weir

KR> PROPS

[ol' weirdo via KRnet]

The question re Props was meant to be an opener. I suppose at the bottom of
the page it doesn't matter which engine. That being said, a friend had
crankshaft breakage of his VW-based engine when he installed a thee bladed
prop. I don't know the make.

Bill W.

KR> METAL WING SKIN

[ol' weirdo]

So I phoned Titan to ask them how they do it in their Tornado and this is
what they said. The Wing is conventional metal from the metal builtup main
spar to the rear spar with metal ribs and the aluminum skin riveted
thereon. The front of the wing has foam ribs with the skin glued onto them.
I missed asking about the skin. Is there separate skin back to the main
spar or does one skin cover to the rear spar?

Anyway, it seems to me that one might build a KR with the wing skinned with
plywood over foam from the front spar to the rear spar and aluminum over
foam for that part of the wing. I think it would be legitimate to use
screws to attach the aluminum to the spar because it is doubtful if one
could obtain an acceptable glue based attachment. I guess this would make
the ac more Taylor than KR.

To argue further, wouldn't skinning with aluminum be as legitimate as using
Deihl skins?

But the sanding song is important to the KR culture.

Bill Weir

KR> WING SKIN

[ol' weirdo]

>From a fringer.

Has anyone skinned the wing of his KR with aluminum sheet glued to the foam
the way titan build their wings?

Bill Weir

KR> PANTHER

[ol' weirdo]

Paul dye's story in Kitplanes was all about flying the Panther and not
about building it. I would like to have seen Dan Wessman's shop. It would
be my bet that he is pretty well computer equipped.

Bill Weir

KR> Corvair engine group link?

[ol' weirdo]

Is there an equivalent VW engine list

Bill Weir

  :
> Rich wrote:
>
>>Could someone post the Corvair engine group link, please? Thanks.
 
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Landing gear

[ol' weirdo]

I didn't note who it was but he was proposing to use a GM fibreglass
leaf spring for undercarriage. Wonder how it is going.

Bill Weir

On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Donald Greer  wrote:
> A question for the field.
>
> Aside from Grove, who else makes an aluminum one-piece main gear for
> the KR2?
>
> Don Greer
> Belleville, Ontario
> (future) KR2SS builder
> don_s_gr...@sympatico.ca
>
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> MEMBERSHIP

[ol' weirdo]

Test to check if I  can access KR list.

Thanks.

Bill Weir

KR> Trailering

[ol' weirdo]

And if you are railering, remove the engine. Its mass boucing over the road
will destroy the engine mount.

Bill Weir

On Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 3:15 PM, Ronald Wright  wrote:

> In a lot of cases they are putting the engine weight over the wheels
> instead of forward on the vehicle hitch.  Another reason is not being able
> to get the main gear over the trailer wheel wells..  They trailer either way
> just fine..
>
> Ron
>
> --- On Thu, 7/15/10, Larry Ragan  wrote:
>
> > From: Larry Ragan 
> > Subject: KR> Trailering
> > To: kr...@mylist.net
> > Date: Thursday, July 15, 2010, 8:21 AM
>  >
> > I've seen projects being trailered and a lot of the time
> > they are being towed tail first.  Is there any special
> > reason or advantage to doing it this way?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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>

KR> Working on KR2S Flight manual

[ol' weirdo]

If you don't mind, which Suberu are you using and where have you placed the
radiator? Can you tell me a firewall-forward weight?

Thanks,

Bill
weir

On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Kirk Lacewell <
kirk.lacew...@mostqualified.com> wrote:

> I'm working on my flught manual for my KR-2S with the Subaru engine and
> need some advice.
>
> The sample manuals I have are both for KR2, not 2S.
>
> How should my airspeeds compare to the KR2? The same, higher lower?
>
> The inspector wants green/yellow and red markings on the tach. Does anoyne
> have those numbers for the Subaru engine?
>
> Thanks,
> Kirk Lacewell
> ___
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>