KR> Plexiglas Spray Lat Removal

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

This past weekend I removed the Spray Lat coating on the Plexiglas
canopy on my KR-2.  
I had heard and read all manner of horror stories about leaving the
coating on too long and how difficult to impossible this task was going
to be.  Sure enough after a couple hours of tedious picking at the edges
I figured there was something to those stories.  One sage advised using
kerosene, another praised WD-40; I did not relish cleaning up that sort
of mess.  I called the Spray Lat folks who advised me to remove the
coating within one year.  Yeah, right, look it's only been 23 years
since I got this bubble from RR.  The best they could come up with was
to put the Plexiglas in a tub of very hot water and dish detergent and
hope.  I don't have that big  of a tub.  Not to be deterred, the Spray
Lat engineer suggested putting towels on the canopy and soaking these
with boiling water.  And wished me good luck.
One of my Chapter 478 members suggested using a hair dryer to heat up
the canopy and the Spray Lat would peal right off.  Lo and behold, after
a bit of trial and singed fingers, the Spray Lat indeed peeled off in
two big sheets to reveal a most pristine bubble canopy.  It won't get
any better than that, especially thinking of all the Wisconsin bugs and
Florida sands that are waiting.
Moral of this story: 23-year old Spray Lat will readily release from
Plexiglas with application of heat (guess about 200 degrees F).

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> forget me nots and plenum

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

How about this approach for cooling a Type 1 VW?  The 2180 VW is from
Great Plains Aircraft Supply.  The inlets are homebuilt fiberglass and
the ducts that attach to the cylinders are standard stock VW cylinder
cooling shrouds ($23 per pair from a local speed shop) with some
trimming to fit up to the inlets.  It all fits under a RR factory cowl.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=3874
1
I have not run this installation yet.  Your results may vary.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


>...On another note, I have just finished building a composite cooling
air inlet duct and plenum chamber fot the type1 VW motor. It should fit
>under just about any cowl and seals perfectly to the motor for maximum
efficiency...
>
>Regards
>Dene Collett
>South Africa

KR> Conditioning Brake Pads

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I never had to pay much attention to this, but now that I am
transitioning to owner/maintainer, I have to get it straight.
My previous understanding from any and all who cared to give me a
straight answer, was: Glazed brake pads needed to be roughed up or
replaced.
Now I find the Cleveland Brake folks telling me that a glaze on my
smooth brake pads is needed for best braking action.  And they give a
simple procedure to glaze the brake pads.  Cleveland Brake also cautions
you that your conditioned brakes may have enough authority to raise the
tail on conventional gear aircraft (such as a KR-2).  The same info is
in the AOPA Pilot magazine, February 2006 issue. 
This is not sandpaper I'm dealing with now, so I have to update my
internal data base.  I excerpted the article and put it on my weblog:
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=3897
7

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Young Eagles Flights

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

EAA International Young Eagles day is Saturday June 13, 2009.  Does
anyone fly Young Eagles in their KR-2?


Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: Stick Force Meter

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

At 10:51 AM 6/2/2009, you wrote:
>I have a stick force meter manufactured by Brooklyn Tool and Machinery
>Co. Inc., New York, NY.  The unit is all mechanical, reads in 
>half-pound increments
>on a dial gauge to max 50 pounds and has a peak reading hold
>feature.
>Sid Wood


Sid,

half-pound increments on the dial may be to large a scale.  I think my
stick forces are in the ounce range.  A slight pressure with thumb
and finger is all I need to maneuver and if the stick moves I'm over
controlling. :-)

In spite of that my KR is one of the nicest flying and smoothest landing
airplanes I've flown in 1300+ hours.  The 180 mph fly-by with a pull up
to pattern altitude is a bit of a rush too.

Larry Flesner

+

Larry,
We can easily put some numbers on that thumb and finger pressure at the
'09 Gathering.
Have gauge, Will travel.

Sid Wood

KR> RE: stick force meter

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>
> My wife recently bought me a gizmo to weigh my bag before I come back
over
> from here (I didn't want to bring my 10-pound 400 lb scale that I
bought for
> weight and balances), and it's only $15-$20 (at least that's what you
would
> admit).  Last night I was trying to figure out what else I could do
with it,
> and it occurred to me that it might as well have been custom designed
to read
> stick forces!It even reads in tenths of a pound.  See
> http://www.balanzza.com/ for details.  I think it was bought at Target
or
> somewhere similar.  I smell stick force testing in the air.  The only
> irritating thing is that it locks in on a number after a second or so,
> rather than a continuous reading, but I think it'll be helpful.
>

Mark,
I have a stick force meter manufactured by Brooklyn Tool and Machinery
Co. Inc., New York, NY.  The unit is all mechanical, reads in half-pound
increments on a dial gauge to max 50 pounds and has a peak reading hold
feature.  I could bring the meter to the '09 Gathering so we could see
who really has the smooth light touch on the KR controls during those 6g
pull-outs.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: Keeping it outside?

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>What happens if the wood gets wet?

Dj,
The wood rots when it gets wet.  Keep it dry and it will last well
beyond your lifetime.  To keep it dry, seal every part of the wood that
comes in contact with air including plywood and spruce inside the
fuselage, wings, inside the spar boxes, firewall (both sides) and
especially bolt holes.  Preferred sealer would be the same epoxy you use
for glue and thinned very little with acetone just to get extra
penetration.  Don't thin the epoxy for glue joints.  Keep the sealed
lumber in the dark so UV rays don't breakdown the epoxy; paint or dark
spaces work well to keep the UV out.
FAA AC 43.13-1B Chapter 1, Section 3 has sound advice written in blood
regarding wood decay and sealing.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.ns
f/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2001.pdf

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Jet Engine for KR

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I came across an article in the yet2.com Technology Marketplace Report
for a small jet engine invention advertised to be suitable for light
sport, ultralight and experimental aircraft applications.  The prototype
is shown installed on a trike.  I suppose that would take some major
redesign to fit something like a jet engine to a KR.  The Japanese to
literal English translation can be a challenge, but you can get the
sense of it.  The inventors are looking for partners. 
http://www.yet2.com/app/list/techpak?id=52072=360=0=tpoverv
iew

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> WAF and Spar Testing

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

At the 2008 Gathering, who had the WAF and Spar testing rig with the
massive I-beam and jack?  Is the jack calibrated for pounds force and
the rig still available?  I have acquired an early KR-2 project with
materials to build a wing spar.  A set of main spar WAFs are also
needed.  Perhaps we can repeat that WAF and Spar test again at the 2009
Gathering, this time with a bit more quantitative calibration?
Contact me off line if you can help.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: O2 gauge

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The Innovate Motor Sport system of air/fuel gauges all use the Bosch
LSU4.2 5-WIRE wide-band O2 sensor 
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16134
=250=1
At $79 for the sensor, this seems pricey for a component you may have to
replace every 100 hours or so if you burn 100LL.  Granted, the 5-wire
sensor will give you better calibrated readings, but you will also need
the controller to keep the sensor happy.  The total price for the system
is between $229 and $289 depending on your display choice.  
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=262
Don't forget the bung that you need to weld into your exhaust pipe.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


--

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:05:41 -0700
From: John Gotschall 
Subject: Re: KR> O2 gauge

some more "mechanical needle" O2 meters

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php

jg

KR> Wing Rotation Jig

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

As promised a few weeks ago, here are two views of my wing rotation jig
that I used to hold the wings for finish construction and painting. The
root is mounted using the WAFs attached to 2-inch aluminum angle bolted
to a scrape of 1/2" plywood. A 1/2" bolt goes through the plywood and
into another piece of plywood that is screw nailed to the heavy saw
horse. The wing tip has a 5/16" bolt, washers and pipe nipple fastened
in the aft wiring hole for the wing tip light fixture foundation. The
wingtip lamp foundation has a 1/4" aircraft plywood plate floxed on the
inside and has 6-32 anchor nutplates inside for the lamp screws. The
wing tip pipe nipple rests on the edge of a steel angle screw-nailed to
scrap 2x4s in turn screw-nailed to the packing crate the VW engine was
shipped in. 
This jig works great for positioning the wing for painting and finishing
tasks. A C-clamp at the wing base end secures the wing in any desired
tilt angle.  To install the wing tip lamp fixture, the jig needs to be
removed.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/185866534849dd498a3cb58.jp
g
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/214062982149dd498a3f5ae.jp
g

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: O2 Gauge

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The Cyberdyn O2 gauge item # 39004 on the Eckler's Corvette page is
advertised to connect to the factory oxygen sensor.  The factory oxygen
sensors are usually narrow band units; this means the output goes from 0
to 1.0 volts full scale.  The oxygen sensor that Mark Langford shows on
his web site is a Bosch wide band sensor; the output goes from 0 to 5.0
volts full scale.  The Cyberdyn O2 gauge has no provision to change the
scale factor.  You have to use a wide band O2 sensor (Bosch 11027 or
equivalent)
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1732+4294966978+11852=BS11027
with the Cyberdyn O2 gauge (Jegs 280-7009 or equivalent).
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=1
0001=10002=-1=0=280-7009=all=1=280-7009
=mode%2Bmatchall=mode%2Bmatchall=280-7009=20=10 
Two factors to consider: All O2 sensors, either narrow band or wide
band, are high impedance devices.  The sensors are quite sensitive to
loading by whatever meter is used to read the output voltage.  A
miss-matched meter and O2 sensor will not produce accurate reading
results.  The second factor is: The narrow band O2 sensors have a sharp
transition in output going from full lean to full rich and back.  This
slam-bang output response is fine for a computer controller system
making mixture changes at 5 to 10 times a second.  No way can any human
paw on a manual mixture control keep up with that narrow band response.
The wide band O2 sensors have a smooth more linear response much more
suitable for human control.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Anybody ever found an O2 Gauge that can actually be seen in the cockpit 
in
bright sunlight, like the standard pressure and temperature gauges?

Try this. May be the same one Mark L uses, but it's from Eckler's 
Corvette

http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?action=freeSearch_text=mixture%20
guage=

Michael J. Simpson
mplane...@aol.com
c:919-423-6190

KR> Gascolator Location

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I have pondered and procrastinated for several months on the ideal
location for a gascolator.  I had even considered not putting one on at
all.  Knowing that this relatively heavy chunk would be the last-ditch
defense against universal water intrusion, it had to be low-point in the
fuel system for any possible nasty water to flow downhill to that sump.
Problem is: my KR-2 carries fuel (and water) in the wings.  The bottom
of the inboard end of the outer wing and corner of the fuel tanks are
the low points on each side.  Those are the absolute low points in the
fuel system.  The only possible location to get the gascolator lower
than that, would be to hang it out in the airstream on the belly.  (Can
you see where many years of high-wing Cessna 150 sumping have fogged my
logic processes?)  In a shining moment of inspiration (by Tony Bingelis)
I realized that it did not matter.  The real consideration was for the
gascolator to be the low point before any fuel was allowed to get to my
VW 2180 carburetor.  And there must not be any low points in the system
to trap water without draining to a sump point such as the gascolator or
fuel tanks.  Since my carb is mounted relatively high on the back of the
engine, I have lots of vertical latitude to bolt the gascolator to the
firewall and route a fuel line through the firewall to avoid rudder
pedals, cables and load bearing structure.  I have installed a Cessna
style quick drain in the gascolator and fuel plumbing is proceeding.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: Temporary partial loss of power

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Installation of a mixture meter would tell you immediately what your
mixture actually is.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/o2meter/

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


  - Original Message - 
  From: Mark Moody 
  To: kr...@mylist.net 
  Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 8:39 PM
  Subject: KR> Temporary partial loss of power


   My airplane has always been very sensitive to mixture while flying.
If I didn't have it set in that magic spot I may get a slight hiccup.
It's never that sensitive on the ground though as I can do a full static
runup (3000 rpm) on the ground while never missiing a beat while playing
with the mixture. 


--

KR> RE: Tri-gear Prop Ground Clearance

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Glen,
I converted N6242 from conventional plans-built retracts to fixed
tri-gear using Dan Diehl standard mains and nose gear.  Gear
installation is per Diehl instructions.  Have 11x4.5-5 Lamb (Shin) for
mains and 3.4x3.0-5 on the nose.  Engine is a stock Great Plains 2180 VW
with 3/4-inch spacers between the stock Great Plains engine mount and
plans-built firewall.  With the 52 inch Sterba prop I have 9.5 inches
clearance sitting on the concrete floor.  Not flown yet, but plan to
make VW noises this summer.  Your results may vary.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

>...This is a Tri Gear, so 
I would like the additional ground clearence for the prop (I'm 
increasing the engine to 2180). I'm getting rid of that retractable 
landing gear and going fixed...

Glenn Martin

KR> What Makes Airplanes Fly

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

It has taken quite a while for me, not being the sharpest tack in the
box, to figure out what makes airplanes fly.  Aerodynamics you say!
No...that may help, but that's not the main reason.  Of course:
Horsepower - the more, the better!  You can make a barn door fly with
enough horsepower!  No...that certainly helps, but that's optional.
Some airplanes fly quite nicely without a horse in sight and no need to
shut the barn door either.  So, what does it take to make airplanes fly?
Simple: Money makes airplanes fly.  Don't believe it? Just waltz into
your nearest friendly neighborhood Cessna, Cirrus, etc. dealer and
pronounce you want to fly that golly gee whiz carpet.  Be prepared to
lay on cash and lots of it to make that magic happen.  Okay, not so fast
Sid, what about good old sweat equity: Build it yourself.  Get some KR
plans from Jeannette (that builds character while you wait for the post
person).  Get to work and next thing you know you are flying that
gorgeous KR.  Consider: In order to pour out that sweat equity, you need
the cash to keep house and home together, buy shoes for the kids,
groceries, etc.  (Although, some of us should cut back a little on the
groceries.)  So, you wind up trading your time for cash.  Or is it cash
for time?  Anyway, your surplus time/cash gets put into a KR to make it
fly.
Did I get that right? 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: Wing Painting

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Barry,
I made a rotisserie for my wings.  I bolted two aluminum angles to the
WAFs.  These were then bolted to a piece of 1/2-inch plywood.  I drilled
a 1/2-inch hole in the plywood about where the wing CG might be and
bolted that to another piece of plywood that was in turn screw-nailed to
a heavy duty saw horse.  At the wing tip, a 1/2-inch pipe nipple, three
inches long was bolted to the hole for the tip light fixture with fender
washers on each end.  The pipe rested on the edge of an aluminum angle
screw-nailed to the edge of a wooden packing box.  A saw horse may also
work.  The fender washer on the end of the pipe nipple keeps the pipe on
the aluminum angle.  I used a C-clamp to clamp the two pieces of plywood
at the wing root to position the wing at any needed angle.  Be sure to
put a stop nut on the pivot bolt so it won't come off. Allow room for
the wing trailing edge to clear the saw horse and the floor.  I found
this fixture to be easy to make, effective and really cheap.
The rotisserie allows one person to easily flip the wing to any angle
for painting, sanding and other prep work...and the wing surface rests
on nothing. 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

>I painted my wings and then turned them over to paint the other side.
I did
not allow enough drying time and the paint was too soft leaving marks in
the
paint work.   Bugger.   So I am going to strip them and repaint them
again
and offcourse the weather is terrible for painting.

Regards
Barry Kruyssen

KR> Lubricating Oil Expected Life

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I found this tip on the Reliabilityweb.com site.

Lubrication Tip, Rule of Thumb:
The service life of petroleum based oil is specified as
30 years @ 85 degrees F (30 degrees C)
15 Years @ 104 degrees F (40 degrees C)
3 months @ 212 degrees F (100 degrees C)
For every 10 degrees F (10 degrees C) oil temperature increases, the
lubricants expected life is halved
Tip from Lubrication for Industry by Kenneth Bannister (Industrial
Press)

My conclusion is: Engine oil wears out due to high temperature ageing
effects...but, you already knew that, right?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: Cooling ducts

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Wayne,
The duct construction was similar to the method Mark Langford used and
describes on his website.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/plenum/index.html 
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/index.html
This is a variation of the lost wax molding method.  Mark bolts his
ducts directly to the Corvair case.  I bolt my homebuilt ducts to the
commercial VW cooling shrouds.  Bill Clapp has a custom set for his
Corvair that he made from CNC carved molds.  Check out pictures of the
2008 KR Gathering Here!  http://www.krgathering.org/  Scroll down to
picture #27.  That is definitely professional artistry in motion.
  To make my ducts, I carved solid urethane foam (could use Styrofoam)
to the exact shape needed, paint with micro to seal the foam and provide
better surface for the tape to stick to.  After the micro cures, wrap
the foam plug with vinyl tape and duct tape.  Vinyl tape will stretch
around corners, but duct tape sticks better in the flat areas.  Glass
the plug and let cure.  Epoxy will not bond to the tape.  Rip out the
foam and tape.  You then have a fiberglass shell ready for final trim
and finishing.
I purchased the VW cooling shrouds from a VW performance shop for
$23/set.  These shrouds are made of steel.  One could get carried away
and use the steel shrouds as molds to make fiberglass cooling shrouds to
save some weight.  The steel shrouds do fit tight to the heads at the
exhaust outlets.  I thought that area would be too hot (1100 F) for
fiberglass/epoxy shrouds, so I am staying with the VW steel shrouds for
contact with the VW heads.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD,USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


Very nice work Sid, did you make the ducts as well? They look very
professional.

Wayne and Kathy Tokarz

KR> RE: Still Here KR Cowling

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Glenn, Steve,
I have been trying to get the top and bottom halves of my RR cowl fitted
together and then fitted to the firewall for the past 4 months, two days
a week, all day long.  Change one little detail and everything shifts
around.  It goes on and on.  I have wondered if it would be easier to
make a cowl from scratch, than try to adapt the RR factory cowl to my
stock KR-2 firewall and nose gear.  
About the only thing keeping me going at it is all the outstanding
character I have acquired from all the other stuff done on this KR-2
over the years.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

> Hello Glenn,
>
> Just to let you know I haven't run off with the cowling.  Hope your 
> cleaning out your shop is going well so you can get the KR in there.
> I have completed a practice mold on another item ready for the lay 
> up.  When I feel comfortable on that I will start on the mold of your 
> cowling.
> Its not as easy as it sounds.  I'll keep you informed of the progress.
>
> Steve Phillabaum
> Shorter Alabama
> 334-740-0066
>
>Hy Steve. I never worried once about you running off with the cowling. 
>I  know how long it takes to get things done.

KR> RE: Gas Struts

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Robin,
Drilling a hole in the gas spring will produce an oil shower depending
on which end you go for.  The oil is for damping, so you can get a
smooth, controlled steady movement.  Proper operation depends on which
end is up.  Welding will most likely destroy the elastic seals.
A better approach is to get the gas springs sized for your application.
The gas springs are rated in pounds force at full rod retraction. How
much PSI that turns out to be is not of any concern.  As the rod
extends, the force will steadily diminish until it hits the stop; the
force should never go to zero before hitting the stop.  You should take
advantage of this characteristic by setting up the geometry between the
canopy hinge and maximum extension and retraction of the gas springs.  I
used two each gas springs rated at 20 pounds each. (No, my canopy does
not weigh 40 pounds.)
http://www.guden.com/ItemDisplay/displayItem-GGS48-020-K.aspx I had to
experiment with the mounting points for the gas springs to get the full
canopy open position and still balance the full weight of the canopy at
about 3-inches open at the aft edge.  At closer than 3-inches the
geometry starts to go over center and the gas springs start to push the
canopy down.  That's so the canopy will stay shut sitting on the ramp
without having to latch it.
As Larry often says: "Your results may vary."

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville,MD,USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


>I want to use gas struts for the canopy, I have 2 but the pressure is
too high. Apparenty you can increase the pressure but most struts you
cannot reduce the pressure. With the struts that you can reduce the
presure there is a valve in one end but these do not have the valve. 

I am thinking of drilling  hole & welding in a valve from a vehicle tube
has anyone out there tried this & how did you get on.  I only want about
10 -20 PSI.

Many thanks 
Robin 
New Zealand. 

KR> RE: Mixture Meter

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

As promised, here is the list (so far) of KR Mixture Meter users and
some comments:

User Engine  Status  Link



Mark Langford Corvair Flying 2+ years
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/o2meter/



Mark Jones (N886MJ) Corvair Flying 80 hrs www.flykr2s.com
<http://www.flykr2s.com/> 



Joe Horton Corvair Flying 2 years http://flykr2s.com/joehorton.html



John Gotschall VW 2180, turbo Installing John Gotschall
[johng...@comcast.net]



Stephen Teate Subaru, turbo, injected Installing
ste...@compositecooling.com



Dave Goodman Corvair Installed, not flown
http://sites.google.com/a/wildblue.net/goodmans/Home/firewall-forward



Sid Wood VW 2180 Installing
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=2130
2



User Comments (as of 2/9/08)

Mark Langford 1. Part auto gas, part 100LL, Replaced sensor at every 100
hours

Mark Jones 2. Exact set up as Mark Langford. very useful and accurate.
Run 100LL, no problems after 80 hours. 

Joe Horton 3. Pep Boys universal sensor lasted about 120 hours on pilots
side exhaust, run 100LL. Local speed shop meter, $90. Building a new
stainless steel exhaust, a boss on both stacks and install O2 sensor in
both with toggle switch. I use the exhaust temp to lean more than the O2
and could live without the O2 at all. It is useful in adjusting the carb
for winter and summer flying to know when the weather has affected the
overall settings. I do use it as a cross check. 

John Gotschall 4. Same as Mark Langford. Modifying meter for cockpit
side wall installation. Bought two Bosch oxygen sensors for $15 on ebay.

Stephen Teate 5. Using three Bosch #BS11027 O2 sensors: One at the turbo
for the computer and one in each exhaust pipe so I can read each bank
separately. Same instrument as Mark and a SPDP switch to select which
bank. Photos not yet available.

Dave Goodman 6. Same as Mark Langford.

Sid Wood 7. Same as Mark Langford.



Contact Sid Wood off line for a copy of the PowerPoint that has the same
info as above.



Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD, USA

sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> RE: Mixture Meter Presentation

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I recently asked for input regarding Mixture Meter usage.  These systems
consist generally of an O2 sensor installed in an exhaust pipe and a
cockpit display.  Using 100LL with an O2 sensor is not recommended.  So
far I know of three KR aircraft:
Dave GoodmanCorvair Installed, but not flown
http://sites.google.com/a/wildblue.net/goodmans/Home/firewall-forward 

Sid WoodVW  Installed, but not flown
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=2130
2 

Mark Langford   Corvair Flown extensively
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/o2meter/  

If there are other mixture meter installations, planned, installed or
flown, please let me know part numbers and vendor sources.  Pictures of
the O2 sensor and display installations would be very helpful along with
comments on the usefulness of the system.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Mixture Meter Presentation - Call for Inputs

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The Mixture Meter presentation done at the 2008 Gathering needs to be
updated. In that presentation were two examples of mixture meter/O2
sensor installations.  I have already updated the available new
technology that I know of.  If you are planning, have installed and/or
have flight time using a mixture meter, please let me know offline what
make, model and source information for the O2 sensor and the display
that you have plus what engine you are using.  Pictures of the installed
O2 sensor and cockpit display along with comments on the usefulness of
the system would be appreciated.

I will compile this information into a revised presentation and make
available to all.  My email address will handle pictures and website
addresses as you prefer.  Thanks for your help.  

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> RE: CHT Probe Location

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Here is the reply I received from Steve Bennett regarding the VW engine:

>Hi Sid, years ago, I moved the CHT around my KR to find the average CHT 
>temperature.  The closest to the average was the cylinder head stud, behind 
>the intake, either one.  They were within 10ºF of each other.  In this 
>location, you put the sender against the head, and re-torque the nut to 18 ft. 
>lbs.  Temp should run about 300 to 320ºF on climb and about 275 to 290ºF in 
>cruise.

>Steve
>Great Plains


Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

>Sid Wood wrote...
...where to place cylinder head temperature (CHT) probes... 

>Mark Langford wrote...
... I'd had the sparkplugs out and when I put them back in one of the
CHT probes (which I noticed wasn't looking that good) got a little
twisted and frayed.  That allowed one of the sparkplug thermocouple
probe wires to short, which makes the EIS a little crazy...  

KR> RE: Nuts and bolts

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The FAA recommends in AC 43-13b that fiber or nylon locknuts not be used
where these will be subject to high temperatures.  (What constitutes
high temperature is not defined.)  All metal locknuts should be used in
high temperature applications.  In theory the high temperature will
cause the fiber or nylon to shrink and loose grip on the bolt threads.
My estimate is brake calipers and associated hardware would be routinely
subject to high temperatures.  I have seen aircraft tires that were
smoking due to hard braking action.  The rims were hot also.  Definitely
use all metal locknuts on wheel rim bolts.  PULLEEASE deflate the tire
before loosening any rim bolts.

Steve Bennett has been putting his VW engine cases together for many
years using nylon locknuts and none have fallen apart yet.  Head bolts
and exhaust flanges are a whole other matter.  

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville. MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

>...The wheel attached to the landing gear main has four bolts with
fiber lock nuts, is this acceptable?... 
IHS
PatS
Seminary, MS

KR> RE:KR Gathering 2009

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>Larry Flesner wrote...
...confirmed the date of September 18 (Friday) and 19 (Saturday) for the
2009 Gathering.  Start making plans...

I shall be there and also a good possibility my KR-2 will make it this
year as well, but that's not guaranteed.  However, it won't be for lack
of trying.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> CHT Probe Location

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I have heard several pros and cons about where to place cylinder head
temperature (CHT) probes.  One placement is at the sparkplug gasket
(substituting for the sparkplug washer?).  The other location is under a
head bolt (exact head bolt varies).  The sparkplug location would tend
to have higher temperature readings than under a head bolt.  Then there
is the wear and tear from checking and changing sparkplugs.  Does the
sparkplug washer provide a better seal than the thermocouple washer?  Is
there any concern for how far the sparkplug goes into the cylinder using
different washers?  If I put the CHT probes under head bolts, would the
entire set of head bolts need to be re-torqued or just the one bolt with
the probe?
Does it matter which brand of engine for the above considerations?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


Mark Langford wrote...
... I'd had the sparkplugs out and when I put them back in one of the
CHT probes (which I noticed wasn't looking that good) got a little
twisted and frayed.  That allowed one of the sparkplug thermocouple
probe wires to short, which makes the EIS a little crazy...  

KR> Wankel Engines

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I read an article in the Aviation Week & Space Technology November 24,
2008, issue about Mistral Engines, Geneva, Switzerland and Deland, FL,
development of a 300 hp and a 200 hp Wankel engine for aircraft
applications.  These engines are designed to use 95-octane no-lead
automotive gasoline.  (Is there such a fuel?)  The 300 hp engine is on
target for FAA certification in mid-2009.  Initial production of FAA
certificated engines is expected in two or three years.  Prices and
weights were not provided.  Mistral displayed a prototype 300 hp engine
at AirVenture 08.
Wonder if the 200 hp engine would fit a KR-2?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> RE: build shop [legality]

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Andy,
I think you misunderstand the intent of the homebuilt rule.  You can get
outside help, but you must personally provide the labor on your
experimental aircraft to construct the majority of that aircraft.  This
is the so-called 51-percent rule.  This is one of the reasons for having
a builder's log; you need to provide evidence that you were the builder
or that you purchased the unfinished aircraft from another home builder.
Hiring outside help, in and of itself, is not illegal; certifying on the
FAA application form that all that labor was yours, when in fact it was
not, is illegal.

Suggest you contact your local FAA Flight Safety District Office (FSDO)
if you have questions on the 51-percent rule.  They will eventually have
the final say on your airworthiness application. 

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


-Original Message-


"Its not illegal to have someone build your plane it is illegal to sign
a form saying you built it."

I'm understanding this a little more - so fine, I won't be the builder,
so I won't do my own annuals.  Fine by me, a little more expensive, but
I can handle that.  Besides, a 2nd pair of eyes is a good thing.  If I
owned a certified plane, I'd still have to pay for the annual.

Andy

KR> RE: Progress?

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>I have updated my blog (link below) with some serious cowl surgery.
>Hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

>Paul Smith
>Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
>pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au
>http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/

Some serious cowl surgery indeed!  And I thought my cowl modifications
were somewhat radical.  Just confirms my "2 times theory": No matter
what it is that I could do, someone else has already done it twice two
years before I even thought about it, did it two times better and with
half the cost in time, money and labor.
Atta boy, Paul.  Keep it coming.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> RE: Hingeless Ailerons

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Here is another method to get aileron action.  Run a series of parallel
ducts from the leading edge or just below the leading edge of the wing
to the top of the wing.  Put slide valves in the ducts all ganged
together to regulate the air flow.  As the air is vented to the top of
the wing, lift is decreased.  Connect the left and right slide valves
through the stick in the cockpit for differential aileron action.  The
only moving part would be the slide in the valve; the rest would be
fixed structure, so balancing for high speed flutter would not be
needed.  Partially opening the valves on both wings during high speed
flight would provide reflexed ailerons for enhanced performance. 
Do you think that would work?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


>...about hingeless ailerons?
The hinge is replaced with a flex-plate made of 0.016" 6061-T6
 http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-aileron.html

Paul Smith

KR> Re: Nitride Treatment Obsolete

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Try this link: http://link.abpi.net/l.php?20081125A5





Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.wood at l-3com.com  




>Help -The link does not work for me.  I've tried it several times. 

Solly Melyon-Mgr


>Found this on the NASA Newsletter website.  I am certain if this
technology can be deployed at reasonable prices, nitride treatment will
be relegated to horse and buggy status.
http://www.yet2.com/app/list/techpak?id=36540=90=0=tpovervi
ew

Sid Wood

KR> Nitride Treatment Obsolete

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Found this on the NASA Newsletter website.  I am certain if this
technology can be deployed at reasonable prices, nitride treatment will
be relegated to horse and buggy status.
http://www.yet2.com/app/list/techpak?id=36540=90=0=tpovervi
ew

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Water Intrusion

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

How do you keep water out of your KR?
Yeah, yeah, I know, keep it in the hangar.  However, I suppose you do
wash your KR once in a while.  You may have to park overnight outside in
the rain and perhaps even fly in the rain.  Of concern is the seal (or
lack thereof) around the canopy and that gapping hole around the
elevator and vertical stabilizer.  I have seen duct taped canopies at a
fly in or two; that seems to be likely hard on the paint.  There are all
manner of canvas covers too.
When water does get in, how do you get it out?  Mop up with a rag? Drain
holes?  Let the water dry up on its own?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> RE: vinylester

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The Dan Diehl KR-2 wing skin kit uses vinyl ester resin construction.  I
have installed the Diehl skin kit on my KR-2 using vinyl ester resin.
As detailed in the Diehl instructions, I installed fuel tanks in the
outer wing panels also using vinyl ester resin.  Vinyl ester is superior
to epoxy for fuel tank construction.
Vinyl ester resin, when promoted with Cobol Napthanate by vendors, has a
short shelf life.  Order only the quantity you will need for a
particular task and use it right away.
The vinyl ester resin emits styrene fumes during the curing process.
Your shop needs to have fresh air ventilation when using the vinyl ester
resin.  You need to have a charcoal filter on your respirator rated for
organic fumes, or use a fresh air respirator system.  Keep spectators
and pets out of the area when using vinyl ester resin.  After the vinyl
ester is fully cured, you can work without the respirator. 
Brian Kraut has purchased the rights to the Diehl skin kits and is
working to produce skin kits for the KR-2S.  Contact Brian directly
br...@engalt.com to verify details on skin kits before making any
production commitments for your KR.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 11:47:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr unal turkal <unaltur...@yahoo.com>
Subject: KR> vinylester
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
Message-ID: <757582.41388...@web57703.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8


are there anybody with working vinlester

KR> RE: Financing a KR2

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>Does anyone know a lender who would finance a KR2?

Try http://www.airfleetcapital.com/experimentalaircraftloans.asp  They
are endorsed by EAA.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> RE: help with aileron linkage (John)

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

http://67.183.105.62/index.html

Is there anything wrong here?  

John,
The aileron bell crank hinge bolt needs a castle nut and cotter key.
(Bolt is subject to possible rotation during use.)
Sid Wood, KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> RE: Question on landing gear and canopy

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>Id like to replace the retractable
>undercarraige with a fixed one.

Alan,
Here is how I replaced the retract with fixed Diehl gear.  I used the
Great Plains 5-point VW engine mount.  Net weight reduction including
the nose gear is 6 pounds.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/94703269745b4be40a87a0.jpg
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/50206507746196c8b1f557.jpg

http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/993629902424d688fe0615.jpg


Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Canopy coating

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Can anybody remember or have first hand experience if you can use the
coating on a canopy for masking for paint??
Lee Van Dyke

Lee,
The solvents in some paints will attack the coating and get to the
Plexiglas.  This will leave a permanent haze on the Plexiglas.  Also you
may have pin holes in the coating you won't see until after painting.
Recommend you peal the coating back just an inch or so around the edge
for bonding to the frame.  Tape the paint line with vinyl tape directly
to the bare Plexiglas.  Then tape plastic sheet to the vinyl tape to
cover the canopy using more vinyl tape.  Do the same for inside the
canopy.  Tape a foam pad to the outside top of the canopy so you don't
scuff the plastic cover (and Plexiglas) when you have it upside down on
the bench working the frame.  
The above is right out of the Tony Bengalis book.  Do get the
four-volume set; there's lots of good advice to keep you from a lot of
rework.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N642
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> RE: Wing Tanks

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

...about using 5" irrigation tube for wing tanks,

Robin,
Problems with using long skinny pipes for fuel tanks are: 
It is difficult to impossible to install a fuel gauge that will make any
sense and our FAA airworthiness inspectors will insist that each tank be
fitted with a fuel gauge.  However, if you rig the plumbing so that each
of the pipe tanks must feed into a header tank that does have a
reasonably accurate fuel gauge, then you don't need a gauge in the
skinny pipe and problem solved.  The header tank should hold at least 45
minutes worth of fuel at cruise power.  The header tank will also help
eliminate erratic fuel feed due to the slosh factor in the skinny pipe
tanks.  The down side is you will have to build another tank for a
header and it would probably be in the cockpit.  Don't forget venting
circuits.
Most irrigation pipe is aluminum.  If you plan on welding ends and
fittings, make sure the alloy is weldable.  If you use rivets, make sure
you are not setting up a corrosion situation with dissimilar alloys.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Glue Joints not holding

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

...a uniform white paste was created
Brad Payne
www.n494bp.com
bradleyspa...@gmail.com

Brad,
Sounds like you are mixing up micro spheres (balloons).  That would not
be suitable as structural glue.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Wing tie downs

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I made brackets from .090" 6061 T6 to hold Bull Rings (after market
pickup truck tie downs http://www.bullamerica.com/ ).  These are rated
by the vendor for 1000 pounds.  The bracket is bolted to the upper and
lower spruce caps of the forward spar about 2 feet from the wing tip.
Access to the bolts is behind the landing lights.  I put a small spring
on each to keep the Bull Rings retracted flush with the lower wing
surface when not in use.  I discarded the vendor supplied fairing.  I
chamfered the skin around the ring so I can easily pull the ring down
with two fingers. Total weight for two rings, two brackets, two backup
plates, 8 AN3 bolts and stop nuts is 9.6 ounces.  That is 2 ounces less
than the two steel boat eye bolts that Diehl recommends and not counting
the buried stop nut plate.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/119137370543a80a28660f8.jp
g 

Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD, USA



From: "Brian Kraut" 

I did some brackets made out of 1/8" 4130 steel mounted to the bottom
forward wing attach fittings.



-- Original Message --

From: bobby burington 



>Has anyone put tie downs in their wings ?.

> 

>I am presently sanding down a first and very rough coat of glass off
the wings. I would like to install tie downs somewhere in the outer wing
sections and I have found and read about a half dozen entries on the
KRnet about doing this, but most didn't sound to reasonable and kinda
sketchy about how they were done. So if there is anyone who has done
this in a way that works well and looks good and won't slow down the
plane I shure would like to know how you made em.

> 

>Thanks

>Robert

KR> Safety check item

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Joe,

On my nose strut, I could not tighten the AN4 bolts enough to squeeze the 
firewall bracket tight on the strut.  There was always a little tiny wiggle.  
With weight on the nose wheel there was no detectable wiggle.  Weight on wheels 
to weight off wheels cycles plus rough ground taxi will generate the wiggles.  
The shock load, as the strut hits one end or the other of its play, will impose 
large impulse shocks at the firewall.  These shocks would be in the vertical 
direction.  There's not much loading laterally due to the swivel of the nose 
wheel.  The shock loads could also fatigue the epoxy joints in this area.

In my case with Dan Diehl's concurrence I drilled the ¼-inch holes out to 
5/16-inch and used close tolerance bolts.  The strut feels like it is welded to 
the bracket now.

On the firewall you have to keep the bolts tight clamping the wood.  Wimpy 
individual 3/16 fender washers on the back of the firewall won't do here.  Make 
a backup plate the same size or larger as the bracket on the front.  Drill the 
holes to ¼-inch and put in AN4 bolts for some clamping muscle on this high 
stress area.  Just like prop bolts, don't crush the lumber.  Going to AN4 bolts 
will also help fix your elongated holes in the firewall. 

Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA



>Thanks for the heads up Joe. I will check mine as that is one area I have not 
>thought about.



Mark Jones (N886MJ)

Wales, WI

Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com

E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com

- Original Message -

From: "Joseph H Horton" 

To: 

Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 5:56 PM

Subject: KR> Safety check item



> 

> Guys,

>For the guys with nose gear I found a item that I need to check

> on more often. The 4 an-3 bolts that go thru the Deihl  nose gear bracket

> where it attaches to the firewall on mine have loosened up and slightly

> elongated the holes in the wood. This can not be identified with the

> weight on the nose gear. It has to have the nose raised and all the

> weight taken off to be able to detect the movement at the firewall. In

> all fairness I had an occasional front wheel shimmy and I found this

> defect while working on the shimmy problem. The hole elongation is

> vertical only not laterally.

> Joe Horton

> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

> 

KR> Wheel Pants

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Does anyone know of some good websites on how to install wheel pants? I
bought a set of wheel pants from John Backer and the fairings from Dan
Diehl...



Steve Henderson

St. Louis, MO

KR-1

kr-avia...@sbcglobal.net



Here is how I am doing my wheel pants and Diehl fairings.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=1293
0
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=3910
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/index.php?q=log_entry_id=4033


Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

sidney.w...@l-3com.com

KR> Force One Prop Hub For Sale

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I have a Great Plains Aircraft Supply Force One Prop Hub for sale.  The
Hub uses the standard 3-degrees taper for a VW-2180 type I crank.
Includes bolt, washer, cotter key and prop crush plate.  New, never
used.  $75.00 for the set plus shipping.  Compare on the GPASC site at
$150.  Contact me off net.

Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2, N6242, Mechanicsville, MD, USA

smw...@olg.com

KR> Force One Prop Hub For Sale

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

>I have a Great Plains Aircraft Supply Force One Prop Hub for sale.  

The hub has been sold.  Thank you for your interest and help.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2, N6242, Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood at olg.com  

KR> KR-2 Building Progress

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

This past weekend, after 5 years waiting, I removed N6242 from captivity
on the rotisserie and put it back on the floor with shiny new paint,
lots of wiring and pumped up tires.  (It suddenly is starting looking
really kind of small and vulnerable.)  Next up is the nose gear and 2180
VW; these have also been waiting a long time for a turn.  

The new home for the rotisserie is already lined up.  Highly recommend
you boaters invest the time to build a rotisserie.

Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> 2lb. Foam

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I think you are referring to Styrofoam.  The difference is the aircraft
grade is guaranteed to not have any voids or lumps.  That is kind of
important when you are doing hot-wire cutting.

If you are talking Urethane foam, don't do any hot-wire work.  The
urethane puts out a toxic gas when it melts similar to the mustard gas
used in World War I.  Cut it with a knife or saw; sand to your hearts
content.

Gasoline will dissolve Styrofoam instantly.  Urethane is inert with
gasoline.  Making a fuel tank?  Use urethane foam, fiber glass and vinyl
ester resin.  Vinyl ester is gasoline and alcohol-proof.  Do not use
epoxy for gasoline contact.  Alcohol found in automotive gasoline will
slowly dissolve any epoxy.  Read the descriptions and cautions in the
Aircraft Spruce catalog under Foam.

Sid Wood

KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA





They are the same as far as I know. Model builders have been using the
same foam for years. I'm using Owens Corning (pink) foam in my KR1.

Fred Johnson
Reno, NV

-Original Message-
  I have a question for the list, what is the difference in the 2lb.
foam you can buy from wicks or Aircraft Spruce and the stuff you can buy
from the lumber company ? Thanks for your reply 
___

KR> T'was right before Christmas

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

I composed this for our EAA chapter Christmas party 2005.  Instead of
our usual Chinese gift exchange, everyone pulled their chairs up in a
close circle with their present on their lap.

The narrator read the poem aloud. Each time the word "left" or "right"
was spoken everyone simultaneously would pass their gift to the next
person in that direction.  It was not long before near total confusion
set in.

Seems like quite a few pilots really cannot keep their left and rights
in order.  The poem is rigged so that if all follow directions
correctly, any individual's gift will wind up four chairs away.  Four
out of 27 wound up with their own gift.  Lot's of fun.


'Twas Right Before Christmas




'Twas right before Christmas and out on the ramp, 

Not a prop was turning, not even a Champ.



The trainers were snug right in their chocks.

The Spam cans were left all still as rocks. 



I had settled right down to check the plumbing.

The latest issue of Sport Aviation I was thumbing.



>From the Unicom came a loud chatter.

I jumped right up.  What was the matter?



The pale luster of aluminum left in the ramp light

Was all that could be seen by my wondering sight. 



Then appeared right before my eyes, now yearning,

A tiny KR-2 with Nav lights left burning.



The jolly old pilot was so lively and right quick.

I knew in a moment that it must be St. Nick.



He called the right turns for all to hear:

Left down wind, left base, short final, now clear.



As he taxied right in I heard turbos whine.

When he shut down, I knew all was right fine.



He left his KR and went right to his task,

With all the goodies homebuilders could ask.



A cruise prop up front, white light on the tail,

All in between was done right without fail.



A GPS right here, not missing a beat,

He even put in a heated cushion for the left seat.



His work done right and with a last look,

He proceeded to sign off the logbook.



Without any word or blowing his nose,

No tools left out and wound up the hose.



Right to his craft, I heard the turbos whistle.

And away he flew like the down on a thistle.



I heard the Unicom call as he went out of sight.

Merry Christmas to all and to all please fly right. 



Sid Wood

KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> Boat

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

John Godwin wrote:

>> I have spent so much time making sure this KR
is as perfect as I can make it, it has slowed down my building. I hope I

have gotten over being such an overly perfectionist person and can get
on 
with the building. I don't know if I am the only one who spent 4 months 
getting his fuselage ready for skin or am I the only one this anal in
the 
group? You tell me.<<

I took a year to build the 62 lb boat.
I have been building this KR-2 for 20 years.  In that time I converted
from fully functional: retract conventional gear to fixed tri-gear,
reflexed ailerons and flaps, Diehl skins on the vertical stab to foam &
wet lay-up, cable control loops to push rods, balanced elevator (per
Langford) and external antennas to all internal antennas.
There's about 20 pounds of aluminum fittings hanging on my memorial
wall; some are primed and painted, others are an extra left or right
when I really needed to make a left and right. Some I just did not like
how they looked.  With all the rework I could have built three KR-2s.
Trust me, the next one will go a lot faster to completion.
I estimate it will take another year to get flying.  It's painted white
now and everything is paid for.
So, I suppose that will make it free, white and 21.  



Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA

KR> Resin Shelf Life

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Last week I mixed some West System epoxy and cotton flox to anchor the
brass 6-32 screw heads for my Dynon mag compass sensor.
The 105 Resin and 206 Hardener had been sitting on the work bench with
the dispenser pumps left in the cans for 2 years plus.  Shop temperature
had ranged between 45 degrees F and 85 degrees F.  I had to push the
pumps a couple times to get the prime going.  Everything worked just
fine.  Eight hours later the flox had set up tough and strong.
This stuff works good.


Sid Wood

Tri-gear KR-2 N6242

Mechanicsville, MD USA


There was an inquiry a few weeks ago about the Storage/Shelf life of
Resins. 

I have just received the Product Guide for the West System

Store at room temperature. Keep containers closed to prevent
contamination. With proper storage, resin & hardener should remain
usable for many years. Over time 105 resin will thicken slightly &
therefore require extra care when mixing. hardeners may darken with age,
but physical properties are not affected by colour. 

Mini Pumps may be left in containers during storage. After a long
storage, it is a good idea to verify the metering accuracy of the pumps
& mix a small test batch to assure proper curing. Repeated Freeze/thaw
cycles during storage may cause the crystallization of 105 Resin. Warm
resin to 125 degrees F & stir to dissolve crystals. 

Don't forget this only applies to the West System, but may be a guide
for other types.

I hope this gives some guide to those who were not sure where to store
the resin, or how long it will last . 

But as always irrespective of age etc do a test piece your life depends
on it & you will sleep better at night knowing you have done all you
could. 

Robin

KR> Nose Gear Parts

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

The tire and rim are in Wicks Aircraft Supply
<http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geupO7rbZEaKUAKQlXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE3djlsOGF
iBGNvbG8DZQRsA1dTMQRwb3MDMQRzZWMDc3IEdnRpZANGNjU0XzEwOA--/SIG=11h553828/
EXP=1152909115/**http%3a/www.wicksaircraft.com/>  catalog.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com


The TR100-22 is the nose wheel tire. It is the only one that will work
with Diehl nose gear. The wheel he needs for it is an AZUSA 5" aluminum
wheel part # AZ-1144.

Mark Jones (N886MJ) 
Wales, WI 
Web site: www.flykr2s.com 
Mailto:flyk...@wi.rr.com 

Jim:

I just purchased the Nose-Gear Ass'y fo r my KR2.

Address as Follows:

Diehl Aero-Nautical Co
1855 N. Elm
Jenks OK 74037
Ph. (918) 299-4445
Fax.(918) 299-4425
E-Mail dan at deihlaero.com <http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet> 


Jim Sellars wrote:

>Fellows;
>   I would like some assistance in getting the nose gear assembly