KR> re: Fuel pump backup
In a message dated 11/13/2005 9:46:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, aerobe...@cox.net writes: > Sounds like automating your back up fuel pump would be a good idea. > > > >Their are a few different methods I can think of to do this. Monitoring > >your fuel pressure with a pressure switch which can then activate an > >annunciator light as well as the back up pump or measuing the current to > >the main pump, to do the same. > I have never flown anything that has only electric pumps, but wouldn't it be best to use one as primary and the other just like a boost pump on an aircraft with a mechanical fuel pump. i.e. 2nd pump on for take off and landing and anytime under 1000 ft agl. Just my 2 cents worth Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS Lycoming
KR> W & B dilemma
In a message dated 11/1/2005 4:50:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, da...@alltel.net writes: > You know, we have a lot of RV builders around here and I have not been able > to get this information from them. That would be nice if there were a set > like that around here. > Dan, there are a couple of auto parts stores around that cater to the dirt track racers, I have seen the strain gauge digital scales for rent that are used to weigh the cars. typically they consist of 4 scales tied to a central digital panel, and are considered to be highly accurate, don't know if they would be accurate in the 300 lb range. just a thought Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS, Lycoming Power
KR> Gyro instruments
In a message dated 10/4/2005 4:40:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, jscott.pi...@juno.com writes: > Am I the only one that thinks there might be a problem running a 115VAC > 400HZ instrument on 110VAC 60HZ output? > The problem will be the rpm of the gyro, it probably has a 2 pole ac motor which would give 24,000 rpm at 400 hz, or 3600 at 60 hz Just my humble opinion Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS, Lycoming Power
KR> intake heat
In a message dated 9/28/2005 8:05:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, scot...@yahoo.com writes: > So, here's my point: I am thinking about developing a > home made injection system for my motor. The throttle > bodies will be located on the top of the engine. My > air would be pulled from an air duct in the cowling, > and since most of my flying would be in Florida, and > it does get very humid sometime on cold days, icing > would be a concern, I would think. SO, that being > said, would I need to have carb heat pulled from the > manifold, or would "alt static air" from inside the > cowling suffice? Your opinion? > Scott, By the term "throttle bodies" I don't know if you mean throttle plates with injectors above the intake valves, or "throttle body Injection" which mounts the injectors above the butterfly valves. If that happens to be the case I would definitely use lots of carb heat off of the exhaust. You could actually watch ice form on the old GM 2.8 tbi (with the air filter removed) it is caused by the expansion of air and vaporization of the fuel, just like the expansion valve or metering tube in a refrigeration system. Best Regards; Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2SS lycoming
Re: Réf. : RE: KR> pressure/volume
In a message dated 4/25/05 10:47:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, o...@aviation-mechanics.com writes: > There is probably a specific temperature that the testing is performed at. > The W in 5W-30 says the oil can be used in Winter. > Orma & others, With the SAE viscosity index, so called multi-grade oils are blended to be equivalent to single grade oils at 2 different temps 100 degrees F and 32 degrees F. Example: 5W30 would be equal in viscosity to strait 30 at 100 degrees and equal to strait 5 at 32 degrees. Hope this helps Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS Lycoming
KR> Corvair cowling molds
Mark & others, I won't be needing the molds, as my cowling had to be about 8" longer due to the lycoming engine and prop extension. Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS lycoming
KR> Re: Saber MFG, inc
4 weeks sounds about right, but believe me it will be worth the wait. I bought a 4" extension for my lycoming, SAE-2 on crank end and SAE-1 on prop end. An absolute masterpiece. no visible toolmarks and heavy black anodizing, it also comes with stainless drive lugs and a thick crushplate. This is the same company that was woofter/saber in Fla. The owner (Judy Woofter I think) sold it to a fellow in Texas, after she moved to colorado, (I think her husband passed away). I think the long lead time has to do with machining several to take to the anodizers at one time, and it's also a one or two man operation. I will have to say it's probably the best looking part on the plane. Best Regards; Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS lycoming
KR> Tie Rods
Dan, You might try Motion Industries, there is probably one in columbia. I have bought several rod ends and bearing from them in the past. I do know they are dealers for aurora bearings. Best Regards; Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS Lycoming
KR> Tie Rods
In a message dated 10/16/04 8:14:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, da...@alltel.net writes: > Is this the company to which you were referring? https://www.motionmro > com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp > > Dan, I don't know if that is there website, I can stop by there one day next week and find out if they would have what you need, or maybe get an aurora catalog. I could get the part for you if they offfer it. What you are refering to may be a custom fabrication. I take it that it is a rod end bearing with two 1/4" studs, one on each side? I'll see what I can do. Best Regards; Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2-SS lycoming
KR> Check valve
Dan, Should work fine, total electrical system failure might still allow the engine to run, if you are running a magneto and if the ellison can run on very low pressure. by the way .7psi = approx 2.3 +- ft head pressure, may possibly require a little more as all my figures are based on ft/water. gas does weigh 25% less than water. Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR-2SS lycoming
KR> Try and fly or fly and fry?
I plan to continue to look for ways to cool things off while I build some time on the new engine. Orma, I realize your new engine is considerably larger than what you originally had in the KR. I know it will create more heat due to being of higher horsepower. You may have to enlarge the air inlets and exit areas (which you may have already done) to get sufficient cooling. Did you lower the compression ratio on this engine? Also the ignition timing may need to be retarded a few degrees. What kind of gas are you running? (avgas may run cooler than car gas) Hope you get things worked out, just be careful. Hope to see you at the gathering! Best Wishes Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Kr-nissan Z-24 distributor
Rich & others, I have a Nissan pickup with the z24 engine. I know it is dual ignition (8 spark plugs) don't know if it has 2 separate timing sensors, but pretty sure it has a two level distributor cap and rotary button to provide separate high voltage circuits. I can look into it in a day or so. could even pull it out and meaure the shaft, gear etc., if that would help (just let me know) my guess is you would have to modify it to make it work for you. Will have to wait for the rain to stop, seems theres still an airplane in the garage. BTW the four cylinder ford ranger has 8 spark plugs, but I think they have a distributorless ignition system. Best Regards Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Getting ready to fly
Tonight I must decide procedure to use on takeoff. With the control connected to the cockpit it is easy to see that I could apply full power with the throttle and add boost afterwards. Orma, You might want to keep in the back of your mind, that as airspeed increases the prop will unload, rpms and manifold pressure will increase. Be careful not to use too much MAP on your first flights and have a contingency plan in case the engine were to seize or burn a piston. A type 4 could probably take high rpms better than it would stand for too much boost pressure. Be careful and open the performance envelope slowly. Just my 2 cents worth. Good Luck!! Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Turbo KR operators
In a message dated 8/28/04 8:46:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, o...@aviation-mechanics.com writes: > I'm using a Revflow carb and wonder if the 34 mm > venturi might be holding me back. Orma, Been giving a little thought to your turbo installation. Seems to me you should be getting more boost. Is the wastegate manual or automatically controlled? I think using throttle position to control MP and the wastegate only as a safety to prevent overboost might be the answer. If achieving the right amount of boost is a problem, I would look into a rich mixture problem (lower exhaust temp causes less expansion of the exhaust gases therfore lower rpms of the turbine buckets). The turbo could be sized for a car application, and boost may not come in until 4500 rpm or so. you could be experiencing compressor blade stall (surge) but would probably see an eratic manifold pressure. Hope you get the bugs worked out!! Best wishes Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Type 4 Engine Bulidup & conversion to PSI
Orma, The new bigger, boosted engine may require much more fuel than before. Perhaps the existing fuel system can't supply the need. Just an idea. Here are some conversions if they will help. I use some vacuum transducers at work, a quick ref is -15psi = -30"hg, (approx 1/2psi per "hg) Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN 1 inHg @ 0° C (inch of mercury) = 0.491159 PSI 1 inH20 @ 4° C (inch of water) = 0.036127 PSI 1 MHg (micron of mercury) = 0.193368 PSI 1 mmHg (millimetre of mercury) = 0.0193368 PSI 1 A (atmosphere) = 14.6960 PSI 1 b (bar) = 14.5039 PSI 1 lb/ft2 (pound per square foot) = 0.0069 PSI
KR> Type 4 Engine Bulidup
In a message dated 8/26/04 8:33:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, o...@aviation-mechanics.com writes: > Did you say 15 lbs of boost? > > Hay Scott, > Hold that horse. I said Boosted to 35" hg and the outside BP was 30.01" hg. > Earlier I was given the formula of " hg/0.491159. In this case 4.99" > hg/0.491159 = 10.1 PSI. The tying of the gate was tried both open and > closed as a test to see how the engine performs at both extremes. Orma, I think you are dividing the #s and should multiply instead. 4.99"hg X .491159 = 2.45psi. be careful 15psi boost (30.54"hg) manifold pressure of 60" could destroy your engine VERY quickly (seconds). I would try to keep manifold pressure under 40" (approx. 5psi) at all times. Turbo normalizing may be what you are looking to accomplish. i.e. 30" manifold pressure at 10,000'. However the engine would think its at sea level, the prop would unload and rpms would increase dramatically without a constant speed prop, not really feasible option with a vw. Just one opinion Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Plan #'s
In a message dated 8/18/2004 10:02:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, n5...@hiwaay.net writes: A "top speed" of 210 mph So much for the mythical 200 mph Vne! I've always wondered where the 200 mph number came from (although I have my idea I read somewhere, years ago, that Ken Rand was getting 212mph TAS at high altitude with the turbo. I'm sure the boost had to be very high and the 2100 screaming at some outrageous rpm. Bet a constant speed prop would really kick a KR into hyperspeed. Just my 2 cents Riley Collins
KR> incidence, fuel system
In a message dated 8/11/2004 10:41:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, n5...@hiwaay.net writes: I'm plumbing into the fuel line (which is already pressurized by a Facet pump) with a tee that's screwed into an electric primer solenoid. Push a button and it sprays fuel into each intake manifold through some special primer fittings that have orifices built in (in case the tubing breaks, so you won't have a huge vacuum leak). Mark, and others I am planning on a similar primer arrangement for my Lycoming, and have procured a 12v n.c. solenoid. I was planning to take pressurized fuel from the aux. pump (facet) but am concerned that it will not supply enough pressure (rated 3-5 psi) to atomize the fuel and feed equal volumes of fuel to all 4 intake ports. Should I add a 2nd (higher pressure) pump wired to run when the solenoid is energized, just for the primer. Guess I worry too much about fuel in the cockpit area. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> primer solenoid
Larry Flesner wrote: I'm running wing tanks only with Facet fuel pumps, an inline pressure regulator set to 4 1/2 pounds, a Marvel Schebler carb on my 0-200. I use a N.C. solenoid that feeds from the carb side of the gascolator. It puts fuel into the intake "spider" just above the carb. With 80+ hours I've not had any trouble starting so it must be working fine. My 0-200 generally fires on the second or third blade. For the sake of science I'll go to the airport and varify that this morning. :-) Thanks Guys, I guess as long as I get fuel into the intake tubes, the engine would start fine even on a very cold day. Probably does not have to atomize, at 5 psi it will most likely be a dribble. Most hand primers seem fairly stiff and I figured it must be making quite a bit of pressure. My gascolator has a 1/8" npt primer connection on the outlet side before the mechanical (engine driven) pump, will have pressure there from the wing tanks via the facet pump. Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Vacuum pump
In a message dated 7/13/2004 1:18:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, ask...@microlink.zm writes: Smog pump is the reference to a small belt driven air pump that was used in the 70s and 80s cars to inject fresh air into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter My old ford truck (1985 Diesel) uses a belt driven vacuum pump to operate the power brakes and heater/ac controls, as there is almost zero vacuum with a diesel engine. I replaced it a couple of years ago, about $70.00 from auto zone. the first one lasted over 300,000 miles. Seems like it weighed about 2 lbs. , and is a diaphragm type pump. Might be worth looking into. Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Off subject - air compressor
Harold, Very well put, the compressed air must be cooled to achieve the required pressure dew point. Or put through an adsorption type dessicant air dryer. traps and drains will only get rid of liquid, not entrained vapor. By the way we met once in Fredricksburg, while I still worked for Woodward. You were involved in a dessicant dryer presentation if I remember correctly. Around 1993-94? Glad to see you on KRnet!! Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> lost messages
looks like some of my messages went only to the original sender instead of the list. Maybe that will help. thanks Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
Fwd: KR> Off subject - air compressor
resubmission, didn't go earlier
KR> Off subject - air compressor
Jack, I work for the Ingersoll-Rand industrial compressor distributor, in Knoxville, TN. So maybe I could help. Sounds like your compressor is probably OK. Overhauling it will not solve anything unless its knocking, using oil or the capacity is down. Condensate is a problem that has to be dealt with in any compressed air system. The only real way to get rid of it is thru use of either a refrigerated dryer or a desiccant dryer. Short of investing a substantial amount of money, the easiest way to get a reasonable air quality is to install a drip leg on the tank outlet, with a drain, drain the receiver often (several times a day) and install an inline coalescing filter. The amount of condensate depends on relative humidity, volume of air compressed, pressure in the receiver, and radiant cooling of the receiver. The problem is that ambient air at x relative humidity becomes compressed air at 10x relative humidity when compressed to 150 psi, it then quickly condenses to the saturation point still leaving 100% RH inside the receiver (lots of vapor) It's fairly easy to get rid of the liquid, water vapor may be a problem, as it condenses in hoses, and out of tools, nozzles, etc., as the air re-expands to atmospheric pressure. Keep your air tools well oiled, they will probably be OK. Just a little water or oil could ruin a paint job. I may be able to find a good used filter and automatic tank drain at work that I could send to you. I deal with these kind of problems on a daily basis, but it's sometimes hard to justify a big outlay of cash for a unit you use at home. email me off the list if you have any other concerns or if you want me to try to find those items for you. Best Regards, Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Mogas and Fibre Glass
Bill, Interesting to hear your 150 didn't do well on Mogas, (or did you just mean that the gas "stinks"). We used a lot of it in the 150 that we had. Couldn't tell any difference in performance. Used only Amoco gold (93 octane). Some claim that the vapor pressure is lower with mogas and will boil/flash/vapor lock at high altitudes when using a pump. My brother owns a vari-ez and the right tank developed a leak that desolved about 6" of the foam in the wing. He swears that using mogas only on 2 occasions caused the failure. However it's anyone's guess as to what kind of epoxy was used as he didn't build it. My KR (project) has a lycoming O-235L2C, so compression ratios are too high for the car gas. One less worry I suppose. Just my 2 cents worth Best Regards Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR> Mogas and Fibre Glass
In a message dated 6/23/2004 8:41:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, donr...@erols.com writes: A Vari-Eze is supposed to be built with Urethane foam around the tanks. Urethane is impervious to gasoline. Assuming that you mean the outboard wing panels that are made from polystyrene, any gas (Mo or Av) will dissolve the foam. Don, It was the right outer wing panel, in front of the attachment. Outer wings are blue polystyrene foam that almost vanishes when contacted by gasoline or solvents. Should have been clearer as there is nothing in the strake area that fuel should hurt. Best Regards Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR>Spar lamination direction - Oops
In a message dated 6/10/2004 9:59:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, ask...@microlink.zm writes: What size bolt holes are required for mounting the Diehl type u/c? (I have old KR plans with retracts). I presume that the Grove rendition has bolts all the way through the spar from the bottom up? Steve, The bolts supplied for the attachment on the diehl gear are 1/4", I did replace mine with 5/16 due to the gross weight I am anticipating. I also floxed the attachment to the spar and the legs to the bracket. You need to do some planning as to where to drill these to place the holes as close to the centerline of the spar caps as you can. The spar will have an upward dihedral angle and the brackets need to be level to maintain the correct geometry. On my bird this also caused the bracket to protrude from the bottom of the wing on the front corner of the bracket. (new airfoil) no problem as the fairings will cover it I think the grove gear mounts on a 90* angle bracket that would be mounted to the spar in a manner similar to the diehl. I don't know if any of the KR plans show anything other than retracts (about 1/3 of book) I bought my plans in '96 or '97 Hope this helps Riley Collins Rutledge, Tn
KR> KR2SX
Brian, My center spars are 10', with flaps, fuel tanks, between spars (14+ gallons each) be prepared to change aileron actuation arangement as the original belcranks are on rear of spar where you want your flaps. Riley Collins Rutledge, TN In a message dated 5/2/2004 9:39:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, brian.kr...@engalt.com writes: > Making the stub wings longer does a lot for me. I get bigger flaps, I have > a much stronger wing, I will have room to keep all my fuel in the stub wing > tanks. I would be interrested to hear if anyone else has extended the > stubs. >
KR> Rudder R.E Bearing
I would consider weight of the rudder on the bearings minimal, even during high G maneuvers, bigger concern may be the pressure from the rudder cables on the bottom hinge, just my 2 cents worth. Riley Collins Rutledge, TN KR2ss What if I used one KR hinge to carry the weight at the bottom of the rudder, and two REB's, 1 centre, and 1 at the top of the rudder???
KR>KR Boat Construction
In a message dated 3/16/2004 4:19:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, jmw...@socal.rr.com writes: > By looking at the plywood it seems to be under alot > of stress and on the virge of snapping. > I don't think the aircraft plywood will snap with such minor bends, but will be under tension due to the outside of the bend being longer than the inside. Irregardless I installed plywood after framing the "boat". you need to keep constant check of level between longerons to prevent a twist. Riley Collins Rutledge, TN
KR>Nyloseal fittings
In a message dated 3/19/2004 2:59:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, johnj...@chc.net.au writes: > 1) What is the secret in removing the tube from these new fangled > fittings? > 2) Do not use them in vacuum situations? > > I think you are describing "push lok" fittings, it has a fitting with a collar on the end and are available in a variety of materials / pressure ratings. we happen to use quite a few of these at work for pneumatic control lines. To remove the tubing simply push the tube and the collar in together then continue to hold the collar while you withdraw the tubing. Probably will be very difficult if you are using the opaque polyflow? tubing, as it is extremely soft,works very well with synflex air brake line. They will work for vacuum, but minor leaks are probable because pressure increases both the crush of the oring and grip of the teeth. Hope this helps. Riley Collins tncompressor...@aol.com rcollin...@hotmail.com
