KR> Jabiru's in Kr2s.

2014-12-01 Thread Herbert Fürle
...I made a very simple calculation :
1100 rpm's comply with about 52 mp/h,when you use a 54 inch Prop.I supose, your 
approaching  speed on short final is about 25-30 more. That means, with  the  
powersetting you use at the final,the prop does'nt produce thrust,he'll brake 
you.
Maybe a naive opinion ,but I also use Mark's procedure on each  approach with 
each  craft!
Sincerely, Herbert



Von meinem iPad gesendet


KR> Jabiru's in Kr2s.

2014-11-30 Thread Mark Langford
Colin Hales wrote:

> I haven't got flaps or a speed brake. You don't need
> them. People keep saying that "They float!" How? Its got tiny wings!
> The problem mostly seems to be that people need a high throttle
> position to keep their poorly idling engines going on the ground at
> say, 700 rpm. This unfortunately turns into about 1,400 rpm in the
> air. No wonder it floats, thats still about 1/4 throttle. If you
> remove the idle stop for your engine all together, if you close the
> throttle completely, it now acts like a exhaust brake. The engine
> will never stop in the air, it just windmills at 500 rpm causing
> massive drag and the aircraft stops and falls out the sky. When you
> land and the idle gets lower as they airspeed decreases, just crack a
> little throttle back on.

I have several problems with the above paragraph.  One is that even if 
your engine is switched off and the prop stopped (I've never seen mine 
windmill, either the Corvair or the VW), a drag brake is useful.  If 
nothing else, the brake acts as another control system to provide more 
flexibility in landing, whether "deadstick" or normal.  It's another 
tool in the box, just like slipping.  Another benefit is added drag 
behind the CG, which helps to stabilize the airplane while landing. 
Nothing like a drag chute, but a small step in the right direction.

As for "poor idling at 700 rpm", most aircraft makers, and indeed auto 
makers, probably wish they could make their engines idle reliably and 
smoothly at 700 rpm under all temperature conditions.  Most everything 
I've driven is stabilized from the factory at something like 950 rpm. 
The best I can do with N891JF's engine is idling at about 800 RPM, and 
the Corvair is similar.  This puts me at about 1050 to 1100 RPM on short 
final.

I've never seen a carburetor that would run 700 rpm while open at 25% 
throttle.  Most carburetors (or what passes for a carburetor in the case 
of the POSA) either have a dedicated idle circuit and require no 
throttle opening at all, or have a slight opening that might be 5%, 
rather than 25% open, when running at idle.  25% throttle might be 1800 
rpm, but not 700 rpm, at least not on a "normal" engine.

You have far bigger gonads than I do if you fly with no throttle stop 
and routinely let the engine almost die on every landing. Fiddling with 
the throttle to keep it running on rollout seems another distraction 
that I don't need.  I pull the throttle back to idle when I'm abeam the 
numbers and leave it there unless I need power to make the runway (which 
is rare...although I may slip it to kill extra altitude).  I guess I 
can't argue with your success, but it's contrary to everything I know 
about how to drive cars or fly airplanes.   It's one less thing to fool 
around with while landing.  That cure seems worse than the disease.

I guess I can't say I've tried it, but I have tried belly boards (both 
before and after), and I do highly recommend them...

-- 
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com




KR> Jabiru's in Kr2s.

2014-11-30 Thread Joe Nunley
You mentioned that you don't have a speed break or flaps. What is your
landing distance on concrete and grass?

Joe
On Nov 30, 2014 3:27 PM, "colin hales via KRnet" 
wrote:

>
> Hi all,
> A couple of things. First, I'm too busy, articles, video editing, things
> are getting neglected, like my parents and friends. Lots to do before I
> return to America in January. My own fault so I try not to complain.
> I read a lot of the comments on Krnet.
> There seem to be a few repeating issues that I thought  would reply to.
> Engine reliability.
> Non of them are. I wouldn't expect any light aircraft engine to do more
> than 500 hours without a good look over. I looked at one of my exhaust
> valves while repairing a leaking exhaust gasket. It looked rough, hardend
> plating corroded and cracked at base at 300 hours. I replace my exhaust
> valves each 300 hours now. If you don't, they will brake, or stick or both.
> Temps are vital, it took a long time to make sure my engine doesn't even
> get hot.
> Its not really the engine or designers fault. Its operating conditions,
> operators and maintenance. I've read many of the reports of the jabiru
> engine failures and sort of knew why most of them had happened.
> Lets get real. The Jabiru engine has had next to know research or
> development. During the early days, the owners were doing it. I learnt
> quickly about 5 vital things to look after my Jabiru, by seeing what
> happened to the operating parameters, temps pressures when various
> operating conditions were applied. None of them have ever been added to any
> news letter or information advice from the manufacturer and I've given up
> telling people now. No one listens.I even was asked to write an article for
> our society about Jabiru engines. I entitled it, "Jabiru engines and what
> they won't tell you about them!" Highlighting about 10 issues, 5 I though
> vital for safe operation of the Jabiru engine. They never published it,said
> it was too inflammatory and open to the layers...
> I know people will now say that they have had thousands of trouble free
> use from their engines, well all I can say to that is that , you are either
> a diligent operator and maintainer, or you have been lucky.
> The Rotax engine had a lot more development thrown at it, and you have to
> pay for that in the cost of the thing. Get what you pay for... The Jabiru
> engine is expensive as well, that's because you are paying for a decent
> power to weight ratio. That's all.
> Its no good really. Its still too delicate. I use it though, but monitor
> it and all four egt and cht parameters rigorously and check heads and
> tappet clearances for signs of change or deformation regularly. Seems to
> keep going. But I don't like it. I would love to buy one and not have to
> think it was ever going to quit for 2,000 hours as they say, but its a
> joke... Not funny when they do break and seemingly they do. Anyway...
> Next, speed brakes. A KR needs to be light and none complicated if it is
> going to perform well. I haven't got flaps or a speed brake. You don't need
> them. People keep saying that "They float!" How? Its got tiny wings! The
> problem mostly seems to be that people need a high throttle position to
> keep their poorly idling engines going on the ground at say, 700 rpm. This
> unfortunately turns into about 1,400 rpm in the air. No wonder it floats,
> thats still about 1/4 throttle. If you remove the idle stop for your engine
> all together, if you close the throttle completely, it now acts like a
> exhaust brake. The engine will never stop in the air, it just windmills at
> 500 rpm causing massive drag and the aircraft stops and falls out the sky.
> When you land and the idle gets lower as they airspeed decreases, just
> crack a little throttle back on. So don't worry about how many holes to put
> in your speed brake, save yourself a lot of time and weight and
> complication and use the prop as a brake instead. This only works if you
> have a starter motor, I've accidentally let it stop once or twice out on
> the taxi way. But its safer too. No panic trying to find mag switches or
> trying to turn mags switch keys, if a dog runs out, as has happened to me.
> Just pull the throttle, which your hand is on anyway and it stops.
> More ways to skin a cat, which is a funny saying we have here. I'm not
> telling anyone anything or want any reply or discussion with this message.
> I'm just saying what I do and saying that if you haven't tried it, give it
> a go. If it works for you too, brill, if not well, I reckon holes add to
> drag. About 20 two inch holes should do.
> Keep an eye on those engines, if you have a worry, you are probably right
> and you should take a look, it never hurts.
> Best regards,
> Colin Hales.
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