KR> Re: Diehl Wing skins

[smwood]

Russ,
The Diehl plans call for putting the bottom skin on first then put on the 
top skins.  Before you do the top skin, put in the inspection ports in the 
bottom skins.  That's a lot easier to do at that stage.  If you are careful 
in cutting out the holes, you can use the cutout piece as a cover plate for 
the inspection hole.  I used a Dremel tool with tiny router bit and a router 
adapter taped to a hole cutting guide.  Lowes has all the parts.
You will need inspection holes big enough to get one hand and arm through. 
Put them everywhere there is a nut or bolt head or vent pipe for a fuel 
cell.  I have 26 openings on the bottom of my wings and everyone has a 
needed purpose.
Don't worry over the exact dimension of the airfoil shape of the ribs.  When 
you get them glued between the spars, you will have to cut them down as much 
as 1/4-inch to allow for the varying thickness of the Diehl skins.  Then you 
use lots of VE flox to fill the gaps.  When the top skin goes on, you can 
reach in through the inspection ports and make sure the flox is 
finger-filleted in all the joints.  That is especially important to close 
leaks on the blind side of the fuel cells.  (Been there, done that.)
You vary the gel time for the vinylester by adjusting the amount of catalyst 
you use.  The higher the temperature the faster it goes off.  The 
instruction ratio calls for 4 cc catalyst to 8 oz resin.  You can use 1 cc 
per 8 oz and it still works ok.  Do use a calibrated syringe for the 
catalyst.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Hi Russ,
 I used Dan's skins on my KR2 some years ago and was fortunate in having
met Dan at a gathering. I think I was the first to use them in the UK ,and
had no problems except that the rib cut out markings didn't correspond
somehow .
 I contacted Dan and he reassured me that my markings were not
accurate ( it was in the '90's and I've forgotten how exactly-but I'll look
up my notes if you can't get better advice).
 One thing I do remember is how fast vinylester goes off , so you have to
get a reliable pal and rehearse the procedure.
  I also had to open inspection panels in the lower skins to satisfy our
inspection authorities who would reinvent the wheel if it hadn't been made
in Birmingham!

Cheers,   Mac  ex  KR2 G-BVZJ
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 3:41 PM, Russell Barmett  wrote:

>
> Is there anyone that is getting ready to do Diehl wing skins on thier
> KR?
> I have a stock KR and will be attempting to do the wing skins soon. I have
> already modified the spar to the 4-15/16" at the outboard end. I purchased
> the skins and ribs from a builder a lot of years ago and the ribs were
> already cut from the sheet.
> However how do i verify that the ribs are correct and as accurate as they
> need to be? What is the spacing for the ribs?  and i need some information
> on the spar extension.
>I would be willing to help anyone that is getting ready to do this in
> my area
> I am in SW MO.
>My goal is to fly to MVN Sept 2012
>
>Forgive me if i make a mistake on the KRlist ( I am computer 
> challanged)
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Russ Barnett
> rbarn...@ipa.net
> N8227
>

KR> Re: Diehl wing skins info

[smwood]

Ray,
When you do the dry fit and have the skin clamped in place exactly where it 
is supposed to be, drill a small hole in the skin at the edge of the spar at 
the inboard end and another at the outboard end of the spar.  Put a rod 
through each hole and clamp the rods securely to the spar.  Aluminum or 
steel rod or wooden dowels will work, just so they are not loose in the 
holes.  Put a film of wax on the rods so the flox does not bond to them. 
Now you have a set of index pins to reinstall the skins exactly where they 
are supposed to go with no jockeying around for position while the flox is 
getting squished out.  The flox may be peanut butter consistency, but it 
performs like greased goose s**t when you are trying to clamp the skin in 
place and hoping things don't shift five minutes after you walk away.
For the top skin you need to glue the dowels in place before you fit and 
flox the top skin.  The dowels only need to protrude a 1/4 inch or so to do 
the indexing job.  When you go for finishing, just sand the dowel flush, and 
put on a dab of flox and peal ply.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

>Am about to start work on my Dan Diehl wing skins.
Ray
New Orleans