KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability

[Dan Heath]

I had a GPASC 2180 back before they realized that the oversized valves were
useless and a detriment.  The replacements that I got from GPASC, were from
EMPI.  If you want good heads, get the ones manufactured under license from
VW, note, that is NOT WW.  The ones that I got were from Brazil with
standard sized valves and never had another problem with them.  However, my
problem was not the same as yours.  The exhaust valves in my heads were
sinking into the head.  The reason was because EMPI makes them with plugs in
the valve recesses, to make it easy to remove after casting.  This, plus the
oversize, causes the exhaust to have less meat around the valve seat, than
is necessary to remove the heat.



So, the message is get the right heads with standard valves and keep them
cool.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



2016 KR Gathering - Mt. Vernon, Ill.



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Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability

[Tommy Waymack]

Thanks to everyone for there input.As far as reliability is concerned,This
is the first cracked head I've had in 26 years.Probably ran the mixture too
lean.The only EGT probe I use is on the opposite side from the head that
cracked.Tommy W.

On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 12:58 PM, Robert7721 via KRnet  wrote:

>
> Chis,
>
>
> The best practices are incorporated into the designs of both Great Plains
> and Revmaster. Lots of good info on their web sites. GP has manuals on
> conversion which I bought and use.
>
>
> One other expert was a man called Bob Hoover, but he has passed away. His
> blog might still exist. He had some serious issues with the Aerovee VW
> design. I don't believe their prop hub design is anywhere near equal to
> either GP or Rev. But it is another option out there.
>
>
> My engine has components on it from both Rev and GP. Rev case and
> crankshaft. GP dual spark plug cylinder heads. Rev dual ignition (bendix
> mag). Converted to use auto spark plugs. Revflow Carb. I feel pretty good
> about it's reliability.
>
>
> Biggest reliability issue on Type 1 VW is probably the cylinder heads.
> They do have a limited life span running our engines at high power
> settings. Plan to replace them as needed.  Steve Bennett at GP state this
> regularly.
>
>
> Rob Schmitt
> N1852Z
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Prata via KRnet 
> To: krnet 
> Cc: Chris Prata 
> Sent: Thu, Apr 21, 2016 11:13 am
> Subject: KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability
>
> After reading the VW heads topic, I am wondering what the main reliability
> issues and best practices are on VW currently.
> Looks to me that the crankshaft should be forged, heads not cracked (are
> there best source for reliable heads?), apply best cooling to heads
> possible. and something about the front #4 bearing.
> Not sure about anything else structural, and what is best ignition, mag or
> electronic, etc.
> It is a way off but wondering about this because after 55+ years I would
> think that some "norms" and best practices would be out front by now to
> keep the VW type 1 turning... so thought I'd ask generally and see what
> info/experiences comes back for my KR Saves folder for future reference.
>  :)
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>
>
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability

[Robert7721]

Chis,


The best practices are incorporated into the designs of both Great Plains and 
Revmaster. Lots of good info on their web sites. GP has manuals on conversion 
which I bought and use. 


One other expert was a man called Bob Hoover, but he has passed away. His blog 
might still exist. He had some serious issues with the Aerovee VW design. I 
don't believe their prop hub design is anywhere near equal to either GP or Rev. 
But it is another option out there. 


My engine has components on it from both Rev and GP. Rev case and crankshaft. 
GP dual spark plug cylinder heads. Rev dual ignition (bendix mag). Converted to 
use auto spark plugs. Revflow Carb. I feel pretty good about it's reliability. 


Biggest reliability issue on Type 1 VW is probably the cylinder heads. They do 
have a limited life span running our engines at high power settings. Plan to 
replace them as needed.  Steve Bennett at GP state this regularly. 


Rob Schmitt
N1852Z








-Original Message-
From: Chris Prata via KRnet 
To: krnet 
Cc: Chris Prata 
Sent: Thu, Apr 21, 2016 11:13 am
Subject: KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability

After reading the VW heads topic, I am wondering what the main reliability 
issues and best practices are on VW currently.
Looks to me that the crankshaft should be forged, heads not cracked (are there 
best source for reliable heads?), apply best cooling to heads possible. and 
something about the front #4 bearing.
Not sure about anything else structural, and what is best ignition, mag or 
electronic, etc.
It is a way off but wondering about this because after 55+ years I would think 
that some "norms" and best practices would be out front by now to keep the VW 
type 1 turning... so thought I'd ask generally and see what info/experiences 
comes back for my KR Saves folder for future reference.   :)

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options

KR> VW type 1 questions - best reliability

[Chris Prata]

After reading the VW heads topic, I am wondering what the main reliability 
issues and best practices are on VW currently.
Looks to me that the crankshaft should be forged, heads not cracked (are there 
best source for reliable heads?), apply best cooling to heads possible. and 
something about the front #4 bearing.
Not sure about anything else structural, and what is best ignition, mag or 
electronic, etc.
It is a way off but wondering about this because after 55+ years I would think 
that some "norms" and best practices would be out front by now to keep the VW 
type 1 turning... so thought I'd ask generally and see what info/experiences 
comes back for my KR Saves folder for future reference.   :)