KR> cam

[Phil Matheson]

Mark
Also, the gear COULD get bent or out of round in the incident, but it WOULD 
NOT move on the shaft and show up as a misalignment???


Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch. 20  http://www.saaa20.org/
VH-PKR
Australia

EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com


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KR> cam

[Phil Matheson]

Mark
You could ask them if they have a 100% run out test policy on their finished 
shaft and gear?

If not, they have no way of knowing it  was correct when it left their 
shop?

Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch. 20  http://www.saaa20.org/
VH-PKR
Australia

EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com


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KR> cam

[John Martindale]

Hi Mark

Has WW confirmed his views to you on this matter as implied in his
"cam-unicate" email dated 6 November to Corvaircraft? 

John Martindale
29 Jane Circuit
Toormina NSW 2452
AUSTRALIA

ph: 61 2 66584767
email: johnja...@optusnet.com.au
web:www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Mark Jones
Sent: Tuesday, 25 November 2008 11:54 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> cam

Yes, I have talked with them ..snip

KR> cam

[Mark Jones]

Yes, I have talked with them and they say they did not install the cam gear 
cocked and that it must have cocked when it failed. Today, I am going to see 
Mark Petunis with the rest of my engine for an inspection. If he does not 
find anything wrong then all it could have been was the cocked gear.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
Web page: www.flykr2s.com
e-mail: flyk...@charter.net


- Original Message - 
From: "Keith and Martha Crawford" <mar...@simerson.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 9:07 PM
Subject: KR> cam


Hi Mark

any word from Clark's yet on your cam?



Keith and Martha Crawford
mar...@simerson.net ? ke...@simerson.net
http://martha.simerson.net




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KR> cam

[Keith and Martha Crawford]

Hi Mark

any word from Clark's yet on your cam?



Keith and Martha Crawford
mar...@simerson.net ? ke...@simerson.net
http://martha.simerson.net

KR> Cam gear

[Dave Arbogast, CISSP]

I'm with you Tim, that engine designed for a 15% duty cycle ( 80 hp) 
some 50 years ago is on borrowed time in the air. IMHO... But, hey, 
that's why the sign on the cock-pit says "EXPERIMENTAL" and I support 
every effort to experiment :-D 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvair_engine

-dave

ColdLake-Tim wrote:
> You guy's been real lucky with these airports so close.KR2's are no 
> Super STOL's
>
> Realistically I'd be looking at my watch wondering if it's now 0-200 and 
> ain't talking daylight savings.
>
> Sans worse case senario, the loss of your' aircraft ground you, indefinetly 
> :-(
>
> CldLk-Tim 
>
>
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>   

KR> Cam gear

[ColdLake-Tim]

You guy's been real lucky with these airports so close.KR2's are no 
Super STOL's

Realistically I'd be looking at my watch wondering if it's now 0-200 and 
ain't talking daylight savings.

Sans worse case senario, the loss of your' aircraft ground you, indefinetly 
:-(

CldLk-Tim 

KR> Cam gear

[Glenn Martin]

I now think when I rebuild my VW 1835 I'll do a flush/change at 15 min. 
Personally, I dont know that you'll find this was something you could have 
anticipated. It could easily have been just that tiny odd piece of casting 
flash that broke off. Thats all it takes. Dont beat yourself up. You guys that 
are doing this Corvair work are truely what being an Experimental Aircraft 
owner/builder is about. Thanks.

  Glenn Martin
  N1333A KR2
  Biloxi, MS

Mark Jones  wrote:
  Naturally, the engine was flushed, cleaned and blown out with compressed air 
during the rebuild. The engine had 4.5 hours on it at time of cam gear 
failure. I was planning on doing an oil change at the 5 hour mark.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
Web page: www.flykr2s.com
e-mail: flyk...@charter.net


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KR> Cam gear

[Mark Jones]

>Hi Mark
 > How many had you flushed your engine and changed the oil after your 
rebuild? Your cam >failure page didnt say.

Naturally, the engine was flushed, cleaned and blown out with compressed air 
during the rebuild. The engine had 4.5 hours on it at time of cam gear 
failure. I was planning on doing an oil change at the 5 hour mark.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
Web page: www.flykr2s.com
e-mail: flyk...@charter.net

KR> Cam gear

[Glenn Martin]

Hi Mark 
  How many had you flushed your engine and changed the oil after your rebuild? 
Your cam failure page didnt say.

  Glenn Martin
  N1333A KR2
  Biloxi, MS

KR> Cam breakin - Long

[e.j.pi...@att.net]

I read a post on another list about breaking in a new CAM and thought I would 
do some more checking. I wanted to make sure of what he was saying. So this 
info is from Crane CAMS. It has some good info about what oil to use for 
breaking in the engine.

Due to the EPA’s mandate for zinc removal from most
motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure
is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic
and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. As a point
of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet
camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which
the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes.
There are some oils with additive packages that are better
for camshaft “break-in”. These include: Shell Rotella
T oil; Chevron Delo 400; and Mobil DELVAC oil. These
oils are listed as diesel oils, but work great for flat camshaft
“break-in”. We also recommend the use of Crane
Cams # 99003-1 Break-in lube or GM “E.O.S.” (Engine
Oil Supplement) Assembly Lubricant # 1052367. These
should be poured over the lifters and camshaft prior to
start up.
CAUTION: We do not recommend the use of synthetic
oils for “break-in” because they are too slippery. This
characteristic reduces the tendency of the lifter to rotate
on the camshaft lobe and mate properly. Prior to installing
the camshaft and lifters, it is recommended that the
crankcase be drained and filled with new, clean oil. The
oil filter should also be changed at this time.
Proper flat tappet camshaft break-in starts with the cam
installation and includes the following steps:

1. Before installing the camshaft and lifters,
wash them thoroughly in clean mineral spirits
to remove the rust preventative that is placed
on the cam before shipping. NOTE: As a
“rule of thumb”, always thoroughly clean any
part before installing it in an engine. Never
“assume” that the parts are cleaned before
packaging. During shipping, packaging material
can rub into the component surface and
must be removed!
2. DO NOT “pump-up” hydraulic lifters before
use. This can cause the lifters to hold a valve
open during engine cranking, which will
cause low compression. The low compression
will delay engine start-up and is very
detrimental to proper camshaft “break-in”.
3. Lube the bottom of the lifters with the moly
paste provided with the cam. Lube the sides
of the lifters with oil. Lube the camshaft lobes
with the moly paste supplied with the cam.
4. Install the camshaft, lifters and timing set.
Lubricate the tips of the pushrods with motor
oil before installation.
5. Set your valve lash or lifter preload. Try to
minimize the number of times that you rotate
the engine, as this can displace the moly
paste from the lobes and lifters.
6. If possible prime the oiling system. When
priming, rotate the engine at least one complete
revolution to assure oil gets to all valve
train components.
7. Preset the ignition to start the engine at a fast
idle. Keep in mind that with many engines,
when the timing chain sprockets have their
marks at 6 o’clock on the cam sprocket and
12 o’clock on the crank sprocket that the
number 1 cylinder is at TDC at the end of the
exhaust stroke. For the ignition to fire the
number 1 cylinder on start up, the number 1
cylinder must be at TDC at the end of the
COMPRESSION stroke. That frequently requires
rolling the engine through 1 additional
revolution and putting the timing marks at 12
o’clock on both sprockets. Check your service
manual or watch the action of your rockers
to determine which stroke you are on.
Both valves will be seated at the end of the
compression stroke. The exhaust will be just
closing at the end of the exhaust stroke.
8. Fire up the engine and bring the engine to a
fast idle between 1500 and 3000 RPM. Do
not worry about getting the ignition timing set
perfectly at this time. Get the engine running
fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed
from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow, to moderate,
acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this
time, be sure to check for any leaks and
check out any unusual noises. If something
doesn’t sound right, shut the engine off and
check out the source of the noise. Upon restart,
resume the high idle speed cycling.
Continue the varying “break-in” speed for 20-
30 minutes. This is necessary to provide
proper lifter rotation to properly mate each
lifter to its lobe.
9. Let the engine cool, and then drain the
crankcase and properly dispose of the oil
filter. Refill the crankcase with the proper
viscosity and API service index recommended
by the engine manufacturer. This
should be a mineral oil, not a synthetic oil.
At this point the initial “break-in” is complete. You can
drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend
changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. We strongly
recommend mineral oils with flat tappet camshafts to help
assure proper lifter rotation.. You might want to put another
5000 miles on the cam before switching to synthetic,
if that is your preference.

KR> Cam failure

[Orma]

I started opening the engine today and had a first look at the cam gear after 
removing the oil pump.  The first thing that I noticed was that the bolt holes 
have been elongated by almost 1/8 of an inch.  I can say that there was 
certainly movement between the cam and gear prior to failure of the cam.  All 
the bolts are still in the cam and gear and the gear is in one piece.  More 
later

Orma
Southfield, MI
KR-2  N110LR  1984
See Tweety at http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com
See other KR spces at www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/krinfo.htm