KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Roger]

Speaking of alr scoops and filler and sanding. This is my current project.  
Getting closer. Maybe Mike will paint for me :)

Roger
Rbaalman at cox.net
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KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[bjoenunley]

Vans aircraft charged me $80 to ship a $71 air scoop without telling me how 
much shipping would cost!
I did my due diligence to select the appropriate scoop for my cowling and 
engine size. I received valuable input from my friends on krnet. ?I weighted 
the cost of materials and time to build it myself and decided $71 was a great 
deal. Vans doesn't list a shipping bid online so I called them to ask what it 
might cost to ship the air scoop to my address and was told $36. ? I ordered 
online and received an email listing shipping as $80! ?
I will gladly share my bad experience with Vans to anyone who will listen. ?I'm 
glad to be building a KR2!
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Leif G Alstadsæter]

Hi Sid
I'm not a expert,but I can tell what I do with my plane.
I have a Defiant, a 2 engine push/pull. We have 2 engine 0360 as give 200 hp 
each
The front cowling we use in the front are the same hole as from Lancair. They 
are pretty to look at and the hole are just small. I use 1:3to 3,5 in/out. Work 
perfect.
The rear engine I get some problem with, some ot the cylinder work little to 
hot. I open up more air out on the top of the cowling, since
air in come from botten ot the cowling. Work perfect, and I guess the number 
are 1:3,5.

My building on my KR go to the stage as I will start to put in instruments. I 
just love to work with little bird, and I'm looking forward to 
Meet everone on the gathering.

Regard
Leif




> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 15:31:05 -0400
> Subject: Re: KR> Cowling Air Scoop
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: smwood at md.metrocast.net
> 
> I did not have room for an extra oil cooler or one larger oil cooler on the 
> firewall.  So elected to use the Revmaster oil cooler.  The Revmaster oil 
> pump flows 50% more oil; perhaps that does the trick, don't know for sure. 
> The Revmaster spring temperature regulator does work as advertised keeping 
> the oil temperature at 170 degrees F.
> 
> The air inlets for the engine cylinders are approximately 2-1/4 x 6 inches 
> each.  Fiberglass ducts direct air to VW metal shrouds ($26 for a pair) 
> which in turn direct the cooling air down onto the cylinders just like the 
> Beetle car installation.  Definitely use the cool tins too.  The single 
> inlet for the oil cooler, is 2-1/4 x 10 inches.
> The ratio of the total areas of inlet area for both the cylinder head 
> cooling ducts and the oil cooler inlet on the front of the cowl compared to 
> the single outlet at the bottom rear of the cowl is 1 to 1.45.  The oil 
> cooler inlet is on a flat face square into the wind stream just below the 
> prop; seemed like a high pressure location to me.  The outlet has a ramp at 
> the bottom of the cowl to get the warm air out into the low pressure 
> location behind the cowl (inspired by Mark L.).  The four exhaust pipes 
> terminate in two ramps at the bottom edge of the cowl to provide 
> augmentation of the outlet air flow (similar to the T-34B).  I was 
> definitely avoiding the kind of outlet found on the bottom of Cessna type 
> cowls; these seem to have a huge hole on the bottom and hope the air gets 
> out some how.  Conventional wisdom says the outlet ratio should be 2.5 to 1. 
> This is not a pressure cowl, conventional installation.  My goal was to 
> minimize cooling drag.
> Cylinder head temperatures vary from one cylinder to another about 10 
> degrees F.  After about a 5 minute warm up, the head temperatures stabilize 
> from 340 to 355 degrees F depending on throttle setting.  Steve Bennett 
> recommended 350 degrees F.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> > https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
> 
> Hi Sid
> I just look at your photo of your cowling,
> I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
> compare to the area back of the cowling?
> Regard
> Leif
> NORWAY
> 
> 
> Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
> areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.
> 
> 
> Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
> 7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
> 15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
> and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Sid Wood]

I did not have room for an extra oil cooler or one larger oil cooler on the 
firewall.  So elected to use the Revmaster oil cooler.  The Revmaster oil 
pump flows 50% more oil; perhaps that does the trick, don't know for sure. 
The Revmaster spring temperature regulator does work as advertised keeping 
the oil temperature at 170 degrees F.

The air inlets for the engine cylinders are approximately 2-1/4 x 6 inches 
each.  Fiberglass ducts direct air to VW metal shrouds ($26 for a pair) 
which in turn direct the cooling air down onto the cylinders just like the 
Beetle car installation.  Definitely use the cool tins too.  The single 
inlet for the oil cooler, is 2-1/4 x 10 inches.
The ratio of the total areas of inlet area for both the cylinder head 
cooling ducts and the oil cooler inlet on the front of the cowl compared to 
the single outlet at the bottom rear of the cowl is 1 to 1.45.  The oil 
cooler inlet is on a flat face square into the wind stream just below the 
prop; seemed like a high pressure location to me.  The outlet has a ramp at 
the bottom of the cowl to get the warm air out into the low pressure 
location behind the cowl (inspired by Mark L.).  The four exhaust pipes 
terminate in two ramps at the bottom edge of the cowl to provide 
augmentation of the outlet air flow (similar to the T-34B).  I was 
definitely avoiding the kind of outlet found on the bottom of Cessna type 
cowls; these seem to have a huge hole on the bottom and hope the air gets 
out some how.  Conventional wisdom says the outlet ratio should be 2.5 to 1. 
This is not a pressure cowl, conventional installation.  My goal was to 
minimize cooling drag.
Cylinder head temperatures vary from one cylinder to another about 10 
degrees F.  After about a 5 minute warm up, the head temperatures stabilize 
from 340 to 355 degrees F depending on throttle setting.  Steve Bennett 
recommended 350 degrees F.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


-Original Message- 
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY


Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.


Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Bill Jacobs]

Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of the 
areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. 

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 3:58 AM, Leif G Alstads?ter via KRnet  wrote:


 Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Tommy Waymack]

Sid,Had same issues with the 7500BTU cooler from GPAS so I bought another
7500BTU cooler and put them in series.Worked much better.They have a
15000BTU unit that would have done the trick but I was able to stack the 2
and may have saved a little space.Tommy W.

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 7:30 AM, Bill Jacobs via KRnet  wrote:

> Hello Sid,I was wondering the same question as Leif?Is there a ratio of
> the areas?Thanks,Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.
>
> On Thursday, June 30, 2016 3:58 AM, Leif G Alstads?ter via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
>
>  Hi Sid
> I just look at your photo of your cowling,
> I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
> compare to the area back of the cowling?
> Regard
> Leif
> NORWAY
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Leif G Alstadsæter]

Hi Sid
I just look at your photo of your cowling,
I just wonder whats the area on the front opening for the inlet of air,
compare to the area back of the cowling?
Regard
Leif
NORWAY

> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:34:53 -0400
> Subject: Re: KR> Cowling Air Scoop
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: smwood at md.metrocast.net
> 
> I had oil cooling issues on my GPASC 2180 VW.  Just could not flow enough 
> air through the firewall mounted oil cooler.  The cooler was probably too 
> small (3x4x10 inches).  Took it all out and installed a Revmaster oil pump 
> and cooler.  Part of the Revmaster kit is a new oil pressure control, 
> temperature sensitive spring, spin on oil filter and mechanical fuel pump 
> all mounted on the bottom and front of the GPASC VW.  This cooler is about 3 
> times the size of the old GPASC cooler.  The rectangular air inlet fits the 
> Revmaster supplied box for the cooler and I modified it to also supply carb 
> air, cool air for the Compufire ignition, alternator regulator and 
> gascolator, and warm air for cabin heat (no more exhaust muff heat).  Air 
> outlet from the cowl is a ramp at the bottom of the fire wall 2 inches high 
> and 22 inches wide.  Summer or winter, the oil temperature now remains at 
> 170 degrees F.  Running the fuel lines along the bottom of the engine to and 
> from the new fuel pump has eliminated the vapor lock issue when shutting 
> down for refueling for ten minutes and attempting to restart.  Fire sleeves 
> on the top mounted hoses and fuel pump did not make any difference in the 
> vapor lock issue.  Not sure how much ram air pressure recovery may be for 
> the carburetor.
> 
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
> 
> The picture shows the fit up before painting for my homebuilt cowl.  The 
> green peeping through is from the green Styrofoam from Lowes.  My RR cowl 
> would not fit the Revmaster oil cooler installation.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the 
> prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It 
> costs about $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
> I feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for 
> you? ?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
> could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if 
> it might work for you.
> Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!
> 
> Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Sid Wood]

I had oil cooling issues on my GPASC 2180 VW.  Just could not flow enough 
air through the firewall mounted oil cooler.  The cooler was probably too 
small (3x4x10 inches).  Took it all out and installed a Revmaster oil pump 
and cooler.  Part of the Revmaster kit is a new oil pressure control, 
temperature sensitive spring, spin on oil filter and mechanical fuel pump 
all mounted on the bottom and front of the GPASC VW.  This cooler is about 3 
times the size of the old GPASC cooler.  The rectangular air inlet fits the 
Revmaster supplied box for the cooler and I modified it to also supply carb 
air, cool air for the Compufire ignition, alternator regulator and 
gascolator, and warm air for cabin heat (no more exhaust muff heat).  Air 
outlet from the cowl is a ramp at the bottom of the fire wall 2 inches high 
and 22 inches wide.  Summer or winter, the oil temperature now remains at 
170 degrees F.  Running the fuel lines along the bottom of the engine to and 
from the new fuel pump has eliminated the vapor lock issue when shutting 
down for refueling for ten minutes and attempting to restart.  Fire sleeves 
on the top mounted hoses and fuel pump did not make any difference in the 
vapor lock issue.  Not sure how much ram air pressure recovery may be for 
the carburetor.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

The picture shows the fit up before painting for my homebuilt cowl.  The 
green peeping through is from the green Styrofoam from Lowes.  My RR cowl 
would not fit the Revmaster oil cooler installation.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


-Original Message- 

Dear All,
Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the 
prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It 
costs about $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
I feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for 
you? ?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if 
it might work for you.
Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!

Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

--

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Paul & Karen Smith]

Hi Joe,

I have a RV6 scoop and as with most things you get what you pay for.
I feel the quality of mine is a little below acceptable, a very resin rich part 
with numerous voids and very heavy for what it is.
I'm still unsure if I will use it as is or just use it as a plug. I like the 
shape but think it could be half the weight for use on a KR.
Paul.

-Original Message-
From: On Behalf Of bjoenunley via KRnet
Sent: Wednesday, 29 June 2016 6:13 AM

Has anyone tried the prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 
360 engine?  
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KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Jeff Scott]

?
?
The RV style air intake is a good idea and works well on the RVs.  For my 
O-200, it's backwards as the cylinder stagger on the Continentals is backwards 
from the Lycomings.  When I got to the point of doing an air box and inlet, I 
was tired of building and just wanted to get it done, so I slapped a snorkel on 
over top of a stock Air box for an O-200 and have flown with it like that for 
the last 19 years.  But I do like the idea of eliminating that snorkle down 
under the front and making a smooth front cowl, which is certainly 
aerodynamically cleaner.  Good idea.  I'll have to think that one over and 
maybe do something about it... some day.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


Dear All,
Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the prefab 
scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It costs about 
$80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and I 
feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for you? 
?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I could save 
myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if it might work 
for you.
Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!

Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Craig Williams]

Don't know about the scoop but I used the VANS baffles on my Colt and they were
reasonably priced and very well made.


Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


> On June 28, 2016 at 4:13 PM bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the prefab
> scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It costs about
> $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ?
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and I
> feel that thier air

KR> Cowling Air Scoop

[Chris Gardiner]

Joe,
Yes, that is exactly what I used . Vans RV6 nose scoop worked perfectly on the 
KR factory cowl.
Cleco it in place and use epoxy and flow to bond it .
Fits the standard K round filter on the carb.
Cheers
Chris Gardiner

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 4:13 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear All,
> Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us 
> have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings.  Has anyone tried the prefab 
> scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine?  It costs about 
> $80, which it is hard to build for less than that.  
> I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and 
> I feel that thier air scoop would work.  What have you done that worked for 
> you?  I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I 
> could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if it 
> might work for you.
> Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two!
> 
> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling for a VW 1835 question

[Evans Powell]

To whom it applies,

I have a running VW 1835 on my kit right now.  I am in the process of
manufacturing my cowling.  Is there anyone out there with the same
engine sporting a completed cowling?  I would like to hear about what shape
worked best for you.  More specifically, I am concerned with clearance
measurements, appropriate air intake sizes, and overall successful full
cowling shapes for this particular power plant.



Thanks in advance.

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com]

When flying at high altitudes (as I almost always do) it becomes even
more important to have a Mode c transponder.  Once you have the
transponder your size is not that important.  Up at those altitudes and
speeds the big planes you worry about all have TCAS and are talking to
controllers and I suspect that they really don't do a lot of looking for
traffic out the window anyway so does not really matter how big a plane
you are flying.

I think you have a lot of guts flying at the lower altitudes.  When I am
over 10,000' I can almost always glide to an airport or choose between
several.  At 3,500' you are looking for the best looking road and hoping
there are not power lines you can't see.


> - Original Message -

> Hello All,

>  On that note it seems that some of you are flying at altitudes that
> some of the bigger boys fly at. I remember with my other experimental
> airplane at 5500 feet I felt awfully small so I stayed at altitudes at 3500
> feet or less because of my model size airplane! Even in the Cherokee Arrow
> or going over Lake Michigan I usually stay to 7500 feet or less. You guys
> have a lot of guts!

>  Doran
>  N 186 RC

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
change options

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[Dan Heath]

Doran,

On the trip to MVN last year, the Black Bird was at a GPS altitude of 13,850
going over the clouds at the peak of the Smokey mount range.  She was in
communication with ATC for the trip up and back.  This bird is a "climbing
fool", she just loves it.  Besides that, altitude is your friend.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics?

Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC



-Original Message-

 On that note it seems that some of you are flying at altitudes that
some of the bigger boys fly at. I remember with my other experimental
airplane at 5500 feet I felt awfully small so I stayed at altitudes at 3500
feet or less because of my model size airplane! Even in the Cherokee Arrow
or going over Lake Michigan I usually stay to 7500 feet or less. You guys
have a lot of guts!

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[Jeff Scott]

Not a lot of choice about it since the airport is at 7200'MSL. ?I know Mike 
Stirewalt is often times crossing the High Sierras.

Size of the craft is irrelevent. ?My KR outperforms the Cirus SR-20s, Cessna 
182 and 206, and most of the Mooneys. ?No reason why I wouldn't use the same 
airspace. ?I also fly my SuperCub in the same airspace as well, although I tend 
to hug the valleys and ground quite a bit and fly abbreviated patterns. ?Not 
for performance reasons, but just because it's fun.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos,NM


> - Original Message -

> Hello All,

> ?On that note it seems that some of you are flying at altitudes that
> some of the bigger boys fly at. I remember with my other experimental
> airplane at 5500 feet I felt awfully small so I stayed at altitudes at 3500
> feet or less because of my model size airplane! Even in the Cherokee Arrow
> or going over Lake Michigan I usually stay to 7500 feet or less. You guys
> have a lot of guts!

> ?Doran
> ?N 186 RC

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[Larry Flesner]

At 06:11 AM 1/29/2014, you wrote:
>On the stall spin note... There are airplanes with  different flying
>characteristics I tend to agree with the
>other rwriter's statement about please use the rudder For stall recovery. I
>would hate to see someone who has an airplane with conventional flight
>characteristics try to recover using aileron only in a stall as in most
>cases that is an invitation for at the very least an unfortunate incident!
> Doran
++

I think what you mean to say is "use rudder to keep wings level in 
the approach to a stall", not "use rudder for stall recovery".  Stall 
recovery is release back pressure, add power.  Rudder is used in spin 
recovery to stop rotation.

In the case of my KR, and I suspect others built with the same 
alignment, using rudder input to keep wings level does not work.  You 
have to fly the airplane depending on how it responses to control 
input.  They give us a test period to determine such things.  My KR 
has the 3 1/2 degree washout in the wing, as called for in the plans, 
and stalls from inboard to outboard where the nose drops with the 
outer wing (ailerons) still effective.  Using rudder at that point 
(in my KR) to lift a wing only aggravates the situation.  It causes 
the nose to tuck down.  Other KR's may fly / respond totally 
different, depending on their alignment / setup.  Also, in my KR, the 
stall break is not sharp and it does not tend to drop a wing, just 
drop the nose and fly straight ahead with the release of back pressure.

We are all taught in flight training to use rudder to keep wings 
level in slow flight / stall.  How is that done in a "two control" 
Ercoupe ?  :-)

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[Mark Langford]

As Larry pointed out, KRs don't necessarily follow the rule of being able to
control the plane about the roll axis with the rudder...that's not a rule
that applies to Experimentals.  I know N56ML barely shows any sign of
complying with that, and even then, it's accompanied by nose up or down
movement at the same time...not a perfect scenario.  Larry never said he
recovers from spins with ailerons, just that he keeps the wings level with
them approaching the stall...because otherwise you drop a wing and the spin
starts earlier!  Once in a spin, we all know to use rudder to recover

Please delete all extraneous posts (except small pertinent excerpts) from
you replies, as well as other flotsam, jetsam, etc... 

Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
ML at N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com  

KR> Cowling, altitudes, stall spin

[Doran Jaffas]

Hello All,
Just a quick twi cents worth.
My cowl installation (picked up from Sid) is coming along slow but
sure. Modifying one to fit is probably almost as much work as making a new
one but still very satisfying and much better looking than my original
Cowl. Thanks Sid!
 N186 RC was first flown back in 1993 and I purchased it in September
of 2013 the third owner of it! Some cosmetic as well is modifying to fit me
better changes are being done in my two stall garage this winter. I will be
raising the canopy an inch and a half as well as changing the trim color
and adding some extra stripes for better visibility by people on the ground
as well as in the air
 On that note it seems that some of you are flying at altitudes that
some of the bigger boys fly at. I remember with my other experimental
airplane at 5500 feet I felt awfully small so I stayed at altitudes at 3500
feet or less because of my model size airplane! Even in the Cherokee Arrow
or going over Lake Michigan I usually stay to 7500 feet or less. You guys
have a lot of guts!
On the stall spin note... There are airplanes with  different flying
characteristics... Larry's notwithstanding... I tend to agree with the
other rwriter's statement about please use the rudder For stall recovery. I
would hate to see someone who has an airplane with conventional flight
characteristics try to recover using aileron only in a stall as in most
cases that is an invitation for at the very least an unfortunate incident!
And at the very worst... Stall recovery has been the same with aircraft
from the very smallest to the very largest of airplanes in the conventional
sense! Very few people are qualified to test stall recoveries using
different techniques and even fewer are qualified to do this in
unconventional aircraft. Let us be conservative about what we do and
hopefully what we write and live long enough to pass on that wisdom to
others:
Doran
 N 186 RC
On Jan 28, 2014 4:44 PM,  wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1.  WOT operation (laser147 at juno.com)
   2.  Peak efficiency (Dan Calvert)
   3.  WOT & prop efficiency (laser147 at juno.com)
   4. Re:  stalls (Virgil N.Salisbury)
   5.  Missing Post Found (laser147 at juno.com)
   6. Re:  now WOT (brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com)
   7. Re:  now WOT (Jeff Scott)
   8. Re:  now WOT (brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com)


--

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2014 10:13:48 -0800
From: 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> WOT operation
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

At altitudes above 7.5 I adjust my percentage of power with altitude, not
with throttle.  I thought that's what everybody did.   I'm normally
flying at around 55% or less with WOT at the cruise altitudes I use.

I'll now shut up on the subject.  Here's an article by Mike Busch that
explains all this a lot better than anything further I might have to say.

http://www.sportaviationonline.org/sportaviation/201210#pg30

Mike
KSEE


Do THIS before eating carbs every time
1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52e6a21eebe5221d48e7st04vuc



--

Message: 2
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2014 10:23:04 -0800
From: Dan Calvert 
To: KRnet 
Subject: KR> Peak efficiency
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

What kind off maximum efficiency numbers are you guys getting?  At what
speed and with what engine setup?

I am in negotiations on a partially built kit with a rebuilt 1600 vw
motor.  I will probably enlarge displacement on it, but want to see if a
certain combo gives better economy than others in actual real world
numbers.  I have read that peak efficiency is usually near peak climb
speed, which is probably slower than most kr pilots zip around.  It may be
hard to get numbers unless there is another efficiency enthusiast like
myself.

I will deffinately do some experimentation with my own plane but since I am
just starting to build who knows when that will be...
On Jan 26, 2014 5:32 PM, "Mark Langford"  wrote:

> In the "tired of making corrections for one day" category, 3050 rpms would
> be in the low 80's for percent power of my normal cruise speed.
>
> 

KR> Cowling.

[pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au]

If you were Down Under I could help you out with one that looks like this 
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com.au/2011/04/kr2s-engine-cowl-2.html?m=1

Sent from my HTC One XL on the Telstra 4G network

- Reply message -
From: "Mike Sylvester" 
To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
Subject: KR> Cowling.
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, Jul 1, 2013 9:28 AM


Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why you even 
bothered to get out of bed ? Well today has been that way for me. I have been 
agonizing over how to make the cowling for weeks so yesterday I finally 
committed to a plan of action.I made a big foam block and mounted it on front 
of the o-200a , thinking that I would build the nose bowl first and this would 
be my starting point. Wrong...It looked like crap ! I am now ready to buy a 
nose bowl. I do like the looks of the Holy Cowl on the Lancair and the Cirrus. 
Has anybody stretched one of Williams over an o-200 ? Any suggestions ? I 
forgot to mention that I have already looked at most of the webb sites on the 
KRnet. I have even considered the nose bowl for a Thorpe T18 (MC-7 from A/C 
Spruce), Can you tell that desperation is setting in ?

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854  
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KR> Cowling.

[Jeff Carney]

Could send pics of the cowlings and you choose which if either would work. If 
so ill send and you see if its what you need. Then send check for worth to you.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 1, 2013, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kaczmarek  wrote:

> Where are you located and how much for one?
> 
> Richard
> 937-243-7303
> On Jul 1, 2013 8:21 AM, "Jeff Carney"  wrote:
> 
>> I hav a couple of VW cowlings.  Let me know if I can help.
>> Jeff
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Jun 30, 2013, at 7:37 PM, Richard Kaczmarek <
>> fastlittleairplanes at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I would love to find a good used VW cowling since mine is a complete
>> mess,
>>> passed owners did way to many changes put back to stock as it needs to
>> be.
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 8:25 PM, Larry Flesner
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 At 06:28 PM 6/30/2013, you wrote:
 
> Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why you
> even bothered to get out of bed ?
> Mike
 ++**++**
 
 
 Mike,
 
 At some point you may have to bite the bullet and buy one from Steve.
>> I'm
 guessing he has the mold if he got it from Dan Diehl.  Jeff Scott and I
 each purchased one from Dan years ago.  I think his was pulled off
>> Marty's
 KR which morfed its way up from an original VW cowl.  I had to modify my
 cowl over what I purchased but it was a great start.  You might find
 someone that has a VW cowl cheap that they aren't using and start with
>> that.
 
 Larry Flesner
 
 
 
 
 __**_
 Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/**archmailv2-kr/search
>> 
 .
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/**listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org<
>> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org>to change
>> options
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>> change options
>> 
>> ___
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>> options
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> options

KR> Cowling.

[Jeff Carney]

Middle Tn. and I'll send you the best one and you send me a check for what it's 
worth to you.  Have some other parts also.  Will send a picture of the KR I fly.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 1, 2013, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kaczmarek  wrote:

> Where are you located and how much for one?
> 
> Richard
> 937-243-7303
> On Jul 1, 2013 8:21 AM, "Jeff Carney"  wrote:
> 
>> I hav a couple of VW cowlings.  Let me know if I can help.
>> Jeff
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Jun 30, 2013, at 7:37 PM, Richard Kaczmarek <
>> fastlittleairplanes at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I would love to find a good used VW cowling since mine is a complete
>> mess,
>>> passed owners did way to many changes put back to stock as it needs to
>> be.
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 8:25 PM, Larry Flesner
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 At 06:28 PM 6/30/2013, you wrote:
 
> Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why you
> even bothered to get out of bed ?
> Mike
 ++**++**
 
 
 Mike,
 
 At some point you may have to bite the bullet and buy one from Steve.
>> I'm
 guessing he has the mold if he got it from Dan Diehl.  Jeff Scott and I
 each purchased one from Dan years ago.  I think his was pulled off
>> Marty's
 KR which morfed its way up from an original VW cowl.  I had to modify my
 cowl over what I purchased but it was a great start.  You might find
 someone that has a VW cowl cheap that they aren't using and start with
>> that.
 
 Larry Flesner
 
 
 
 
 __**_
 Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/**archmailv2-kr/search
>> 
 .
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/**listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org<
>> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org>to change
>> options
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
>> change options
>> 
>> ___
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>> options
> ___
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> options

KR> Cowling.

[Jeff Carney]

I hav a couple of VW cowlings.  Let me know if I can help.
Jeff

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 30, 2013, at 7:37 PM, Richard Kaczmarek  wrote:

> I would love to find a good used VW cowling since mine is a complete mess,
> passed owners did way to many changes put back to stock as it needs to be.
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 8:25 PM, Larry Flesner
> wrote:
> 
>> At 06:28 PM 6/30/2013, you wrote:
>> 
>>> Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why you
>>> even bothered to get out of bed ?
>>> Mike
>> ++**++**
>> 
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> At some point you may have to bite the bullet and buy one from Steve.  I'm
>> guessing he has the mold if he got it from Dan Diehl.  Jeff Scott and I
>> each purchased one from Dan years ago.  I think his was pulled off Marty's
>> KR which morfed its way up from an original VW cowl.  I had to modify my
>> cowl over what I purchased but it was a great start.  You might find
>> someone that has a VW cowl cheap that they aren't using and start with that.
>> 
>> Larry Flesner
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __**_
>> Search the KRnet Archives at 
>> http://tugantek.com/**archmailv2-kr/search
>> .
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see 
>> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/**listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.orgto
>>  change options
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowling.

[Larry Flesner]

At 06:28 PM 6/30/2013, you wrote:
>Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why 
>you even bothered to get out of bed ?
>Mike


Mike,

At some point you may have to bite the bullet and buy one from 
Steve.  I'm guessing he has the mold if he got it from Dan 
Diehl.  Jeff Scott and I each purchased one from Dan years ago.  I 
think his was pulled off Marty's KR which morfed its way up from an 
original VW cowl.  I had to modify my cowl over what I purchased but 
it was a great start.  You might find someone that has a VW cowl 
cheap that they aren't using and start with that.

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowling.

[Mike Sylvester]

Hey Guys, Do you ever have one of those day's when you wonder why you even 
bothered to get out of bed ? Well today has been that way for me. I have been 
agonizing over how to make the cowling for weeks so yesterday I finally 
committed to a plan of action.I made a big foam block and mounted it on front 
of the o-200a , thinking that I would build the nose bowl first and this would 
be my starting point. Wrong...It looked like crap ! I am now ready to buy a 
nose bowl. I do like the looks of the Holy Cowl on the Lancair and the Cirrus. 
Has anybody stretched one of Williams over an o-200 ? Any suggestions ? I 
forgot to mention that I have already looked at most of the webb sites on the 
KRnet. I have even considered the nose bowl for a Thorpe T18 (MC-7 from A/C 
Spruce), Can you tell that desperation is setting in ?

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854  

KR> cowling

[pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au]

Kris, the Q200 and the KR2 have vastly different firewalls but it is not 
outside the realm of possibility for a reasonably competent builder to adapt 
one to the other.
Having recently done something similar it shouldn't bee too hard as the KR has 
3 straight sides to match to the curvy Q200 cowl.
Paul.

=
Has anyone ever tried to put a Q200 cowl in a KR with an O-200?

KR> cowling

[kleirf...@ecomail.org]

Has anyone ever tried to put a Q200 cowl in a KR with an O-200?

Kris Leirfallom
CFI
KR-2 Builder


Quoting "pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au" :

> Hi Robert, I have modified an O-200 cowl for mine. If interested look at
> www.kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com for my work on ti.
> 
> Paul. (australia)
> 
>  rkp...@comcast.net wrote: 
> 
>  the cowling was made for a O-200 by Dan Deihl. Is there anyone still making
> that cowling, or was that just a one time thing? 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 




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KR> cowling

[pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au]

Hi Robert, I have modified an O-200 cowl for mine. If interested look at 
www.kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com for my work on ti.

Paul. (australia)

 rkp...@comcast.net wrote: 

 the cowling was made for a O-200 by Dan Deihl. Is there anyone still making 
that cowling, or was that just a one time thing? 

KR> cowling

[Larry Flesner]

At 07:16 PM 3/14/2010, you wrote:
>The caption under the picture mentioned the cowling was made for a 
>O-200 by Dan Deihl. Is there anyone still making that cowling, or 
>was that just a one time thing? Robert Pesak
+


That is probably the third generation of the original VW cowl and 
yes, Dan was selling them at one time.  Jeff Scott and I purchased 
one at about the same time a number of years ago.  We both had to 
make further mod's to make it fit our airplanes but it was a good 
start.   Steve Glover may have the molds now as he got other items 
from Dan Diehl but you would have to contact him to see or check his web site.

Larry Flesner

KR> cowling

[Steve Glover]

Emial me direct. I have the molds from Steve's cowling. 

Regards,
Steve Glover
--Original Message--
From: rkp...@comcast.net
Sender: krnet-bounces+n925sg=cox@mylist.net
To: KR Net
ReplyTo: KR Net
Subject: KR> cowling
Sent: Mar 14, 2010 6:16 PM



Hi everyone, 
   I looking through some of the old gatherings,I happened on a picture that 
was taken in Red Oak, Ia. The KR I noticed  was owned by a fellow by the name 
of Steve Alderman.The caption under the picture mentioned the cowling was made 
for a O-200 by Dan Deihl. Is there anyone still making that cowling, or was 
that just a one time thing? 

    

   Robert Pesak 

   Hermitage, Tn.
___
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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

KR> cowling

[rkp...@comcast.net]

Hi everyone, 
   I looking through some of the old gatherings,I happened on a picture that 
was taken in Red Oak, Ia. The KR I noticed  was owned by a fellow by the name 
of Steve Alderman.The caption under the picture mentioned the cowling was made 
for a O-200 by Dan Deihl. Is there anyone still making that cowling, or was 
that just a one time thing? 

    

   Robert Pesak 

   Hermitage, Tn.

KR> RE: Still Here KR Cowling

[Larry Flesner]

>
>I have been trying to get the top and bottom halves of my RR cowl fitted
>together and then fitted to the firewall for the past 4 months, two days
>a week, all day long.  Change one little detail and everything shifts
>around.
>Sid Wood
+

When fitting my pre-molded 0-200 cowl I found I needed to move it
forward two inches, extend the front for a five inch prop extension,
rebuild half the bottom for the carb, etc.

I found the best procedure was to use a cutting wheel and cut away
anything that rubbed, bumped, or otherwise interfered,  mount the
cowl, and then add back, re-shape, or otherwise replace the
missing parts.

Then at about the 200 flight hour mark I had a carb fire and had to
rebuild a section of the bottom that suffered fire damage.  Even
when you're finished, you're not done. :-)


Larry Flesner

KR> RE: Still Here KR Cowling

[sidney.w...@l-3com.com]

Glenn, Steve,
I have been trying to get the top and bottom halves of my RR cowl fitted
together and then fitted to the firewall for the past 4 months, two days
a week, all day long.  Change one little detail and everything shifts
around.  It goes on and on.  I have wondered if it would be easier to
make a cowl from scratch, than try to adapt the RR factory cowl to my
stock KR-2 firewall and nose gear.  
About the only thing keeping me going at it is all the outstanding
character I have acquired from all the other stuff done on this KR-2
over the years.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
sidney.w...@l-3com.com

> Hello Glenn,
>
> Just to let you know I haven't run off with the cowling.  Hope your 
> cleaning out your shop is going well so you can get the KR in there.
> I have completed a practice mold on another item ready for the lay 
> up.  When I feel comfortable on that I will start on the mold of your 
> cowling.
> Its not as easy as it sounds.  I'll keep you informed of the progress.
>
> Steve Phillabaum
> Shorter Alabama
> 334-740-0066
>
>Hy Steve. I never worried once about you running off with the cowling. 
>I  know how long it takes to get things done.

KR> Still Here KR Cowling

[Glenn Martin]

phillabaum...@aol.com wrote:
> Hello Glenn,
>
> Just to let you know I haven't run off with the cowling.  Hope your 
> cleaning out your shop is going well so you can get the KR in there.
> I have completed a practice mold on another item ready for the lay 
> up.  When I feel comfortable on that I will start on the mold of your 
> cowling.
> Its not as easy as it sounds.  I'll keep you informed of the progress.
>
> Steve Phillabaum
> Shorter Alabama
> 334-740-0066
>
Hy Steve. I never worried once about you running off with the cowling. 
I  know how long it takes to get things done.
I am FINALLY this week looking like I'll get the shop ready to pull the 
plane into. I'm expecting to pull her in Wednesday, maybe Thursday. I've 
decided to stop (or drastically reduce) working on everyone else's music 
equipment and dedicate myself to this project. I have been working with 
a fellow over at our local EAA chapter. He has a few planes. I'm working 
primarily on his Christian Eagle Biplane electrical system. I already 
reworked his Intercom system, and still have improvements to make on it, 
so I've been busy and I'm enjoying it. Now it's time to fit my KR into 
the rotation.
I have 11 hours of flying time in so far, and I'm still having problems 
with stalls and such. There's just SO MUCH to remember when I'm up 
there, not to mention the stress of having the instructor in my face 
most of the time. Its to be expected I understand, because I need to be 
able to deal with the whole process of flying, but it IS a bit 
overwhelming most times. I expect to be able to get my stalls right 
tomorrow and start on  my steep turns.  HOPEFULLY Ill finally get it 
down onto the runway by myself too! I'll keep you informed.

BTW..EAA479 will have a booth at the Keesler AFB Air show April 4 and 5 
down here in Biloxi. The Thunderbirds are going to be performing, so I 
hope you can make it down for the show, and any other members of the KR 
crew. Airports close by are Biloxi / Gulfport international, and the 
Ocean Springs airport. Further out to the west are Diamondhead (66Y) and 
Stennis,  with Trent Lott to the east.

Be good, I'll keep you posted

Glenn Martin
KR2 N1333A
Biloxi, MS

KR> Cowling for sale

[Steve Glover]

I have a KR 1 cowling available from Richard Shirley's incredible KR-1
for sale.  This is the one he had on when he was running the VW.  Pics
can be seen at various Gathering events.  The latest one with this
cowling was the 2004 Gathering.  If you know anything about quality,
this is certainly it.  $375 plus shipping or you pick up.

Steve Glover
Long-EZ N2121U
(Former KR-2 N902G)
AJO, Ca

KR> Cowling project

[bo...@hatconversions.com]

Guys,
 I have a piece of a Diehl cowling here that didn't fit my
application. Since I lengthened the engine mount, The cowl is about
4" short and isn't flowing into the bottom of the bird at an
attractive angle.Skill saw..

 Now that I have the anbles I want, I am using a .032 aluminum doubler
to put this back together. What is the weapon of choice for bonding
fiberglass to aluminum before I revit it together?   Bobby

KR> Cowling project

[Dan Heath]

Drill holes in the aluminum and use flox and resin. 

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
is OVER.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---

From: bo...@hatconversions.com
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 04/07/06 08:36:44
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Cowling project

Guys,
 I have a piece of a Diehl cowling here that didn't fit my
application. Since I lengthened the engine mount, The cowl is about
4" short and isn't flowing into the bottom of the bird at an
attractive angle.Skill saw..

 Now that I have the anbles I want, I am using a .032 aluminum doubler
to put this back together. What is the weapon of choice for bonding
fiberglass to aluminum before I revit it together?   Bobby

___
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KR> Cowling project

[Larry Flesner]

At 07:36 AM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
>Guys,
>  I have a piece of a Diehl cowling here that didn't fit my
>application. Since I lengthened the engine mount, The cowl is about
>4" short and isn't flowing into the bottom of the bird at an
>attractive angle.Skill saw..
>  Now that I have the anbles I want, I am using a .032 aluminum doubler
>to put this back together. What is the weapon of choice for bonding
>fiberglass to aluminum before I revit it together?   Bobby
+++

I had the exact same problem with my cowl.  I had a two or three inch gap.
I used some alum straps, approx 1 1/2 or 2 inches by 6 inches, and spanned
the gap.  I lapped the straps approx 2 inches on to the existing cowl and
to the mounting points on the firewall, effectively bridging the gap with the
cowl mounted in position.  I then filled the gap with foam and glass.
I drilled 1/8" holes in the alum straps on the cowl side and initially used
clecos to mount before floxing and glassing in place.  With 205 hours flight
time there are no cracks in the glass where the cowl was extended.

Your other option would be to first extend the cowl with glass and then mount.

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowling project

[Larry Flesner]

>
>  I have a piece of a Diehl cowling here that didn't fit my
>application. Since I lengthened the engine mount, The cowl is about
>4" short and isn't flowing into the bottom of the bird at an
>attractive angle.Skill saw..
++

It not the best photo but there is a picture of my cowl before I had the bottom
cowl gap filled but with the work on the top cowl gap started.  You can see
the alum straps holding on the bottom cowl.  Check out:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/1.jpg

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowling project - Detail pics

[Dan Heath]

Is this sort of what you are talking about?

http://krbuilder.org/Cowl/index.html

A little more than half way down the thumbs. 

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
is OVER.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---
the gap.  I lapped the straps approx 2 inches on to the existing cowl and
to the mounting points on the firewall, effectively bridging the gap with
the
cowl mounted in position. 

KR> Cowling project

[JAMES C FERRIS]

Man thats rougher a cob, but it turned out great in the end.
Jim

KR> Cowling cooling

[Colin & Bev Rainey]

The other alternative would be to open up the openings underneath and use the 
already high pressure air being forced under the cowling to assist in being 
drawn into the cowling, and install vents near the firewall baffles, closing 
off the openings in the front behind the prop. If you look at the illustrations 
of the areas of pressure as shown on Mark Langford's site you will see how the 
high pressure zones are all over the bottom of the cowling giving a natural ram 
cooling effect. Robert Finch also talks about how this was very successful in 
Jess Meyers' first efforts with the 4.3 V6 in the RV6, and also a Jaguar 
homebuilt. By baffling at the bottom of the engine and forcing up through the 
heads reversed, you might even increase the aerodynamics some by smoothing the 
area right behind the prop where it is so blunt and allowing a more streamlined 
scoop vent on the bottom. Food for thought...

Colin Rainey
Sanford, FL
N96TA

KR> cowling photo's

[Bob Glidden]

Netters
I placed some photo's of the cowlings I made using Mark Langfords molds on my 
web sight,you can get to it on the KRnet homepage.I will put some of the finish 
cowling later on


Bob Glidden
Eminence,Indiana
KR2S N181FW (building)
Corvair 110
glid...@ccrtc.com

KR> cowling photo's

[Dan Heath]

Going to the KRNet to see the pictures, resolves to this address:

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/bmglidden/myhomepage.html

This gets an error, Cannot find server. I got this by clicking on "Bob
Gliddens KR" link. 

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics 

There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
has expired.

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

---Original Message---

I placed some photo's of the cowlings I made using Mark Langfords molds on
my web sight,you can get to it on the KRnet homepage.

Bob Glidden

KR> Cowling now fits

[Dan Heath]

See pics without passing GO



http://kr-builder.org/Cowl/index.html



The first 3 thumbnails are new. 



Hey, Jim Moorehead, what do you think? 

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics 

There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
has expired.

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

KR> Cowling now fits

[Steve Henderson]

Hello Dan,

I see that your plane has the fairings on it for the wheel pants, where 
did you purchase these at? I have the Diehl gear as well and am looking for 
wheel pants and the fairings for them.

Steve Henderson
KR1
St. Louis, MO
sp...@sbcglobal.net











Stephen Henderson
Project Manager
Witt Biomedical
305 North Dr., Melbourne, FL 32934
800.669.1328
FAX: 321.253.0372
CELL: 800.273.7983
www.wittbiomedical.com

Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments, is 
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential 
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or 
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please 
contact the sender by reply email and destroy all copies of the original 
message.

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 8:37 PM
Subject: KR> Cowling now fits


> See pics without passing GO
>
>
>
> http://kr-builder.org/Cowl/index.html
>
>
>
> The first 3 thumbnails are new.
>
>
>
> Hey, Jim Moorehead, what do you think?
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering
>
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for 
> building
> has expired.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Cowling now fits

[Steve Henderson]

Sorry, that was meant to go to Dan Heath and not KRNet.

Steve Henderson










Stephen Henderson
Project Manager
Witt Biomedical
305 North Dr., Melbourne, FL 32934
800.669.1328
FAX: 321.253.0372
CELL: 800.273.7983
www.wittbiomedical.com

Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments, is 
for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential 
and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or 
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please 
contact the sender by reply email and destroy all copies of the original 
message.

- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Henderson" <sp...@sbcglobal.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Cowling now fits


> Hello Dan,
>
>I see that your plane has the fairings on it for the wheel pants, where
> did you purchase these at? I have the Diehl gear as well and am looking 
> for
> wheel pants and the fairings for them.
>
> Steve Henderson
> KR1
> St. Louis, MO
> sp...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Stephen Henderson
> Project Manager
> Witt Biomedical
> 305 North Dr., Melbourne, FL 32934
> 800.669.1328
> FAX: 321.253.0372
> CELL: 800.273.7983
> www.wittbiomedical.com
>
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message, including any attachments, is
> for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
> and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
> distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> contact the sender by reply email and destroy all copies of the original
> message.
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 8:37 PM
> Subject: KR> Cowling now fits
>
>
>> See pics without passing GO
>>
>>
>>
>> http://kr-builder.org/Cowl/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>> The first 3 thumbnails are new.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey, Jim Moorehead, what do you think?
>>
>> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering
>>
>> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>>
>> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for
>> building
>> has expired.
>>
>> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Cowling now fits

[Orma]

Dan
It looks good and tight

Orma
Southfield, MI
N110LR Tweety, old enough to drink this year
Flying and more flying, to the gathering or bust
http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/

KR> cowling for Corvairs

[ifly...@aol.com]

As some of you know, I have been working on a cowling for the Corvair  
converted KRs.  This new cowling will allow the use of William Wynne's  front 
starter kit and eliminate the need for any prop extention.  I would  encourage 
anyone using the Corvair to use this cowling or build your own, or  modify the 
Langford cowl in such a way as to eliminate any prop extension.   The accident 
of 
Bob Lester's happened because of a broken crankshaft.   Against better 
judgment, he had a 4" prop extension on the hub.  When he  installed the hub, 
some 
loctite was on the surface and caused an out-of-round  sitiation of .050 at the 
hub!  This causes a serious wobble to the prop and  crank and over time 
weakened the crank.  This is our prognosis so  far.  To date, no Corvair engine 
has 
had a crank failure using the WW prop  hub or any other short hub designed 
since the 1960's.   The extra  inches exaggerate any problems with prop 
balance, 
spinner, or installation those  forces are sent to the crank.  The Corvair vs. 
VW  crank failure rate  is still enviable but as a corvair KR pilot, I will 
be installing the new cowl  and front starter as soon as they leave the mold.  
I figure I have about 20  hours of flying before then and will be doing so at 
high altiitude with lots of  options.   I love the corvair conversion but like 
any other engine you  learn its weak links and the adjust accordingly.  Build 
sensibly and  safely.

N41768   175 hours and counting..Flying to Tennessee tomorrow  and then 
maybe on the see Mark Langford.  Still having fun.  The  Gathering is coming!

Bill

KR> cowling for Corvairs

[Bob Glidden]

What kind of price are you thinking about for the new cowling you are 
designing?How are you designing it without a hump in the front for the front 
starter,and still able to see over the nose in a tail dragger?

Bob Glidden
Eminence,Indiana
KR2S N181FW (building)
Corvair 110
glid...@ccrtc.com



 This new cowling will allow the use of William Wynne's  front
> starter kit and eliminate the need for any prop extention.

KR> cowling for Corvairs

[Steve Bray]

Where in Tennessee??

Steve Bray
Jackson, Tennessee



>From: ifly...@aol.com
>Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
>To: kr...@mylist.net
>Subject: KR> cowling for Corvairs
>Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 18:18:01 EDT
>
>As some of you know, I have been working on a cowling for the Corvair
>converted KRs.  This new cowling will allow the use of William Wynne's  
>front
>starter kit and eliminate the need for any prop extention.  I would  
>encourage
>anyone using the Corvair to use this cowling or build your own, or  modify 
>the
>Langford cowl in such a way as to eliminate any prop extension.   The 
>accident of
>Bob Lester's happened because of a broken crankshaft.   Against better
>judgment, he had a 4" prop extension on the hub.  When he  installed the 
>hub, some
>loctite was on the surface and caused an out-of-round  sitiation of .050 at 
>the
>hub!  This causes a serious wobble to the prop and  crank and over time
>weakened the crank.  This is our prognosis so  far.  To date, no Corvair 
>engine has
>had a crank failure using the WW prop  hub or any other short hub designed
>since the 1960's.   The extra  inches exaggerate any problems with prop 
>balance,
>spinner, or installation those  forces are sent to the crank.  The Corvair 
>vs.
>VW  crank failure rate  is still enviable but as a corvair KR pilot, I will
>be installing the new cowl  and front starter as soon as they leave the 
>mold.
>I figure I have about 20  hours of flying before then and will be doing so 
>at
>high altiitude with lots of  options.   I love the corvair conversion but 
>like
>any other engine you  learn its weak links and the adjust accordingly.  
>Build
>sensibly and  safely.
>
>N41768   175 hours and counting..Flying to Tennessee tomorrow  and then
>maybe on the see Mark Langford.  Still having fun.  The  Gathering is 
>coming!
>
>Bill
>___
>Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowling hinges

[paulw...@webtv.net]

Hi, all;

Speaking of hinges, what methods are being utilized to attach
themand are they being used for top and sides at the firewall as
well as top and bottom of the cowling?

Hope the above isn't too confusingthanks in advance.

Paul 
KR2s
Erie, PA

KR> Cowling hinges

[Mark Jones]

Paul,
The top and bottom hinges are attached using rivets. The firewall to cowl
hinges are rivets on cowl and stainless steel wood screws on the firewall.

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of paulw...@webtv.net
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 9:39 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: RE: KR> Cowling hinges


Hi, all;

Speaking of hinges, what methods are being utilized to attach
themand are they being used for top and sides at the firewall as
well as top and bottom of the cowling?

Hope the above isn't too confusingthanks in advance.

Paul 
KR2s
Erie, PA


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowling hinges

[da...@alltel.net]

I have only seen them used on the bottom sides and the center where the bottom 
and top are joined.
From: paulw...@webtv.net
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 2005/02/24 Thu AM 09:39:02 CST
To: kr...@mylist.net (KRnet)
Subject: RE: KR> Cowling  hinges

Hi, all;

Speaking of hinges, what methods are being utilized to attach
themand are they being used for top and sides at the firewall as
well as top and bottom of the cowling?

Hope the above isn't too confusingthanks in advance.

Paul 
KR2s
Erie, PA


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowling hinges

[paulw...@webtv.net]

Hi, all;
One of the members of my chapter, chapter #160, used them for all
around, including the little gap on the inside of the air intakes on his
RV 4. 

My question was, how do we attach them on the fire-wall, and how do we
attach them on the fiberglass cowl? I am thinking to floss them on (no
rivets).

Comments?
Thanks in advance...
Paul KR2s
Erie, Pa.

KR> Cowling hinges

[Mark Langford]

Paul wrote:

> My question was, how do we attach them on the fire-wall, and how do we
> attach them on the fiberglass cowl? I am thinking to floss them on (no
> rivets).

Mine are screwed into the firewall with wood screws, and are epoxied AND
riveted to the cowling halves.  I used regular flush aircraft rivets (not
pop rivets) on 1.5" spacing.  If flush rivets make you nervous, you could
use the large thin-headed ones as shown at
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/02051831m.jpg .  This is how I did it at
first, but didn't like the heads showing (even though they are low-height),
so I drilled them out and replaced them, and added another flush rivet
between each of the existing holes.  Rivets allow you to make sure
everything is going to line up (using screws or clecos) before you make it
permanent.  I would not count on flox or epoxy alone to do that job.

On another subject, I put a drawing of my fuel system out there at
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/fuel/ ...

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
--

KR> Cowling hinges

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

Flox?? Virg

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 13:00:22 -0500 paulw...@webtv.net writes:
> Hi, all;
> One of the members of my chapter, chapter #160, used them for all
> around, including the little gap on the inside of the air intakes on 
> his
> RV 4. 
> 
> My question was, how do we attach them on the fire-wall, and how do 
> we
> attach them on the fiberglass cowl? I am thinking to floss them on 
> (no
> rivets).
> 
> Comments?
> Thanks in advance...
> Paul KR2s
> Erie, Pa.
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> cowling molds

[robert glidden]

Dan
Have you pulled a cowling off the Langford mold yet?  Bob


Bob Glidden
Eminence,Indiana
KR2S N181FW
Corvair 110
glid...@ccrtc.com

KR> Cowling

[Ray Fuenzalida]

Just wanted to jump in and add what I could to this
discussion.  I just used Mark's cowling molds and I
used 3 layers of cloth (not carbon fiber).  I also put
a strip about 1 1/2 wide along the entire perimeter
for additional stiffening.  It feels pretty solid and
I hope I didn't overdo it but I feel good about it and
look forward to getting it on the plane.
Ray

--- Jack Cooper  wrote:

> Mark
>  I have just gone back and reviewed your cowling
> page and I was wrong about the bazillion hours, it
> must be at least 2 bazillion hours. I have 2
> questions. The two layers of carbon fiber is very
> flexible so did you do anything to stiffen up the
> cowling or is the installation of piano hinges and
> installation around the firewall enough? What size
> of spinner are you using?
> 
> 
> Jack Cooper
> kr2coo...@earthlink.net
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

KR> Cowling molds

[Jack Cooper]

Just to let everyone know,especially Mark Langford, I received the cowling 
molds today. So far I have washed them and applied two coats of partall #2 wax. 
Tomorrow I will apply more wax and spray on some partall #10 and if things go 
well start laying up some carbon fiber. 


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling molds

[raybeth...@sbcglobal.net]

   Jack,
   I just received an E-mail from Mark Langford answerring my inquiry
about using his cowling mold. He said to check with you. He mentioned
that the mold is for a Corvair engine. Is that what you are making the 
cowling for?
I may have jumped to conclusions. I need a cowling for a KR2S  (1835 VW).
By the way, Where do you live?
   Ray Goree 
Arlington, Texas
- Original Message - 
From: "Jack Cooper" <kr2coo...@earthlink.net>
To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 10:30 PM
Subject: KR> Cowling molds


> Just to let everyone know,especially Mark Langford, I received the cowling 
> molds today. So far I have washed them and applied two coats of partall #2 
> wax. Tomorrow I will apply more wax and spray on some partall #10 and if 
> things go well start laying up some carbon fiber.
>
>
> Jack Cooper
> kr2coo...@earthlink.net
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Cowling molds

[Jack Cooper]

I have posted some pictures of the cowling molds on my website. More to follow. 
Scroll down past the RR cowling.

http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/cowling.html


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling

[Jack Cooper]

A few more pictures of my cowling added to my website.
http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/cowling.html

Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling

[Jack Cooper]

I went out to the garage about an hour and a half ago and couldn't stand it any 
longer. I popped the cowlings out of the mold, trimmed the edges a little, 
taped them together with clear package tape and fit them over the nose of the 
KR.  Two new pictures have been uploaded to 
http://jackandsandycooper.com/cowling.html . To remove the cowling from the 
molds I separated them at the firewall end then used a yard stick to run 
between the cowling and mold as Mark had suggested and they popped out very 
easy. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow if weather permits. I know 
I still have a lot of work to have cowlings but these cowlings were very easy 
to make. Many thanks to Mark Langford for all his work in making the molds. He 
must have a bazillion hours of work in the molds and is willing to share his 
hard work with us so that we can take the easy road.  Mark - you da MAN.
Thanks.

Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling

[Jack Cooper]

Mark
 I have just gone back and reviewed your cowling page and I was wrong about the 
bazillion hours, it must be at least 2 bazillion hours. I have 2 questions. The 
two layers of carbon fiber is very flexible so did you do anything to stiffen 
up the cowling or is the installation of piano hinges and installation around 
the firewall enough? What size of spinner are you using?


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling

[Mark Langford]

Jack Cooper.

>  I have just gone back and reviewed your cowling page and I was wrong
about the bazillion hours, it must be at least 2 bazillion hours. I have 2
questions. The two layers of carbon fiber is very flexible so did you do
anything to stiffen up the cowling or is the installation of piano hinges
and installation around the firewall enough? What size of spinner are you
using?<

Yes, two bazillion would be closer.  I was thinking that when I read your
original post.  Thanks for the kind words.

Two layers is a little flimsy when the two halves are not connected, so on
the top I added an X shaped reinforcement one layer thick about 4" wide like
you often see under the hood of your car.  It turns out I didn't need it,
since my cooling plenums hold it up anyway.  I just didn't want it to sag
under all that heat that builds up on engine shutdown.  You DID use the 24
ounce per yard carbon fiber didn't you?   Just kiddin'...I used 5.85 ounce,
two layers, and once you add piano hinges and fasten the two halves together
and to the firewall, it's plenty good enough, in my opinion.  It strikes me
as being bettern than my brother's C-172 cowling, anyway.   It certainly
won't add more than about a pound or so to make it three layers all over
though, if you want it beefier.

 I used a 10" spinner, just because that's what KRs always use, but there's
no reason why a 12 or 13 wouldn't work too.  But that cowling is made for a
10".

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see homebuilt airplane at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net

KR> cowling molds

[Steven Phillabaum]

OK here it goes, My wife and I help out on an "underground for dachshunds." 
transport system. To save dogs from being put to sleep. We drive 2 hours one 
way to pick up the dogs then drive 2 hours in the other direction to deliver to 
another transport person. An example of that would be since I live in Auburn, 
Alabama would be to meet someone in say, Mobile Alabama (3 hour drive for me) 
and then take the molds to Atlanta Georgia (2 hour drive from my house) thus 
making the total trip over a period of a couple days maybe a couple weekends. 
If you were at the gathering you may have noticed the pins on the map. A 
network of pick up and delivery points could get something from one place to 
another.  

I plan on going to Biloxi Mississippi in a few weeks maybe I can help.

Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, Alabama
Glassing Horizontal Stab. when temps go up.
> 
> From: jump...@aol.com
> Date: 2005/01/19 Wed AM 06:43:41 GMT
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: KR> cowling molds
> 
> In a message dated 1/18/05 11:59:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> krnet-requ...@mylist.net writes:
> > I talked to Ray last night, and he has packed the cowling molds for 
> > >shipping. The box is oversize for shipping UPS and so will cost about $100 
> > >to ship. Ray is in New Orleans And I'm in Fayetteville NC. Is anyone on 
> > >the 
> > 
> > >net traveling from near New Orleans east that would be willing to 
> > >transport 
> > 
> > >the cowling molds for me. I would be glad to pay a tank of gas as long as 
> > >you are not filling up a 747.
> > >
> > 
> Ck with some Truck freight CO. or the bus lines. I can get a motor 
> shipped from cal to VA for 150.00 you can find it cheaper than UPS. let your 
> fingers 
> do the dialing and call the bus terminals, and the trucking co. there has to 
> be some way to do it cheap.
> 
> "People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing 
> it."? George Bernard Shaw, (1856-1950) Irish playwright and winner of the 
> Nobel 
> Prize for Literature 1925Yours Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowling molds

[Jack Cooper]

I talked to Ray last night, and he has packed the cowling molds for shipping. 
The box is oversize for shipping UPS and so will cost about $100 to ship. Ray 
is in New Orleans And I'm in Fayetteville NC. Is anyone on the net traveling 
from near New Orleans east that would be willing to transport the cowling molds 
for me. I would be glad to pay a tank of gas as long as you are not filling up 
a 747. 


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net

KR> Cowling molds

[Doug Rupert]

Jack if you know someone at Pope you might be able to get it on a bird out
of NAS New Orleans and pick it up at Pope. You could even go along for the
ride. I'm retired and fly on military birds all the time no cost. Sometimes
a little tricky getting a package on board but usually a twenty to the
loadmaster does the trick.
Doug

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Jack Cooper
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 12:42 PM
To: Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft; KR builders and pilots
Subject: KR> Cowling molds

I talked to Ray last night, and he has packed the cowling molds for
shipping. The box is oversize for shipping UPS and so will cost about $100
to ship. Ray is in New Orleans And I'm in Fayetteville NC. Is anyone on the
net traveling from near New Orleans east that would be willing to transport
the cowling molds for me. I would be glad to pay a tank of gas as long as
you are not filling up a 747. 


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net
___


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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KR> Cowling molds

[Randy Smith]

There are other shippers beside UPS.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jack Cooper" <kr2coo...@earthlink.net>
To: "Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft" <corvaircr...@mylist.net>; "KR 
builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 11:41 AM
Subject: KR> Cowling molds


>I talked to Ray last night, and he has packed the cowling molds for 
>shipping. The box is oversize for shipping UPS and so will cost about $100 
>to ship. Ray is in New Orleans And I'm in Fayetteville NC. Is anyone on the 
>net traveling from near New Orleans east that would be willing to transport 
>the cowling molds for me. I would be glad to pay a tank of gas as long as 
>you are not filling up a 747.
>
>
> Jack Cooper
> kr2coo...@earthlink.net
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 

KR> cowling mold

[Jack Cooper]

Mark
  I was wondering about your cowling mold. Do you have a box to ship it in? 
Have you shipped it to anyone?  Do you have it in your possession or does 
someone else have it now?  I have a cowling but its not going to be long enough 
and has cheeks so it may be easier to make a new one from a mold.


Jack Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

KR> cowling mold

[Mark Langford]

Jack,

Ray Fuenzela has it at the moment, but has promised to ship it to whoever's
next on the list, and I believe he told me he's done with it at CC#8.  You'd
be third in line behind two other guys, if you don't mind waiting a little
while.  It really doesn't take but one day to pull a cowling off the mold,
so if these guys will get the ball rolling again, you could have it pretty
shortly.  I could figure out who the two guys are that are next by digging
through my email for the moment, but maybe they'll email me privately and
remind me, or let me know if they still want it.  Otherwise,  you'd be next
on the list.   My cowling (and mold) is longer than a Revmaster, but it
doesn't have to be.  The installed distance between firewall and prop flange
is actually shorter than many VW installations that I've seen.

OK, Ray, time's up!

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR> cowling mold

[Jack Cooper]

My cowling is 25.5" firewall to spinner opening. My engine measures 27.5
from prop hub to tip of starter. I will have about 3/4 to 1" between
starter and firewall. Giff and I will start building the engine mount next
week. Tray is done except for some final welding. Do you remember how many
yards of carbon fiber it took to lay up the cowling?

Jack Cooper


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark Langford <n5...@hiwaay.net>
> To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> Date: 11/19/2004 9:18:42 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> cowling mold
>
> Jack,
>
> Ray Fuenzela has it at the moment, but has promised to ship it to
whoever's
> next on the list, and I believe he told me he's done with it at CC#8. 
You'd
> be third in line behind two other guys, if you don't mind waiting a little
> while.  It really doesn't take but one day to pull a cowling off the mold,
> so if these guys will get the ball rolling again, you could have it pretty
> shortly.  I could figure out who the two guys are that are next by digging
> through my email for the moment, but maybe they'll email me privately and
> remind me, or let me know if they still want it.  Otherwise,  you'd be
next
> on the list.   My cowling (and mold) is longer than a Revmaster, but it
> doesn't have to be.  The installed distance between firewall and prop
flange
> is actually shorter than many VW installations that I've seen.
>
> OK, Ray, time's up!
>
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> cowling

[Charles Buddy & Cheryl Midkiff]

Don,
I haven't seen anyone answer this one yet, so I'll tell you what I saved
from a previous inquiry on this same subject.
The revmaster cowl was 29 1/2" from firewall to prop hub compared to 26" for
the Hapi VW cowl.
Bud Midkiff KR2S
Lynnwood, WA
email: c.midlk...@verizon.net
web: http://mysite.verizon.net/res18ums/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Walker" <usafwal...@rap.midco.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 9:23 AM
Subject: KR> cowling


> I was wondering what the difference is in the basic vw cowling and the
revmaster cowling from rand robinson.  I've got a 1915cc mosler engine with
the diehl accesory case.  electronic ign. and elec. start.  Which one would
be a better fit.  Also if anyone has a cowling for sale please let me know.
you can email me at usafwal...@rap.midco.net
>
> Thanks, Dan
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Cowling joints

[JIM VANCE]

I used piano hinges to join the top and bottom of my cowling.  It resulted in 
an almost perfect fit.

The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release it.  How 
do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my propeller?  I 
would like something that looks intentional, rather than an after-the-fact 
bandaid.

Jim Vance

KR> cowling

[Dan Heath]

I believe that to use the 'Revmaster' cowling with a VW engine, you have to
have a prop hub extension of around 2.5 to 3 inches because of the taper on
the nose. We had a very nice one, but at the time did not want to add an
extension, so traded it for a 'Hapi', which would not clear the exhaust pipe
on one side that we traded from a 4 into one to allow room for the
carburetor. Jerry disliked the 'bumps' that we had to add to the front of
the 'Hapi', so much, that he decided that it would be OK to use an extension
and bought one. Then we had to find another 'Revmaster' cowling, which we
now have thanks to Jim Moorehead.

I put quotes around the names, because these names have been applied to a
certain shape of cowl and may or may not be the product of either of those
companies. In fact, I know that Revmaster does not make the 'Revmaster'
cowling and cannot even tell you where to get one.

I include all the other rambling so you will get the idea that you just can
t apply this or that cowling to your installation and expect it to fit. You
have to fit your installation to the cowling or change the cowling.

If you don't have anything invested in a cowling yet, you may be better off
building your own from scratch as is documented on several sites referenced
on this NET.



"There is a time for building and a time for GOING TO THE GATHERING, and the
time for building has long since expired."

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering http://KRGathering.org

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

KR> Cowling joints

[Mark Jones]

Jim,
I too have cowling pins and I went to the local hobby shop and bought a pack
of landing gear wheel retainers and am using those. These are small metal
collars which slip over the end of the piano hinge and are locked on with an
allen set screw. Works great, looks good too.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html


- Original Message - 
From: "JIM VANCE" <va...@claflinwildcats.com>
To: "krnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 5:43 AM
Subject: KR> Cowling joints


> I used piano hinges to join the top and bottom of my cowling.  It resulted
in an almost perfect fit.
>
> The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release it.
How do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my
propeller?  I would like something that looks intentional, rather than an
after-the-fact bandaid.
>
> Jim Vance
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowling joints

[Mark Langford]

Jim Vance wrote:

> The wires of the hinges pull out the front of the cowling to release it.
How do I retain the wires so they don't slide out and customize my
propeller?  <

I have a similar setup, but I was worried about the same thing, the prop.
That's exactly what happened to Lionheart on it's first flight, and it was a
$14,000 prop that got trashed.  For that reason, I've made my hinge pins
insert from the fuselage end, rather than the prop end.  I haven't done it
yet, but I'm going to weld a little washer to the end of the pin (flat) and
put a screw through it to retain the pin.  That washer will also serve as
the "grip" to pull it out with.

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR> Cowling joints

[Shane Daly]

Mark L and all,

The easiest and cleanest setup I have seen and used is to braze a large "set
Screw" onto the end of the hinge pin and then form threads in the front lip
of your cowl to retain the pin. I picked up a couple of 1/4-20 set screws at
the local hardware store. Drilled a hole in the bottom end of the set screw
too fit the hinge pin then brazed them to the forward end of the hinge pins.
With the cowls off, I slid the hinge pins into one half of the cowl and
applied flox around the set screw to form female threads on the cowl (apply
release to the set screws first) I then glassed over the flox to strengthen
the bond to the cowl. Once the flox is cured just use your Allen key to
remove the set screws with pins attached.

I have seen this done on quite a few aircraft. One is a Glasair III 540
Turbo engine and over 2000 hours. The pins have never moved in the cowl. All
you see is a small hole in the forward lip of the cowl and the set screw
just flush with the finished surface. A lot easier than crawling under the
panel to remove the cowl pins.

"The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their
eams."   -Eleanor Roosevelt
Shane Daly
Calgary, Canada

- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" <n5...@hiwaay.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Cowling joints


> I have a similar setup, but I was worried about the same thing, the prop.
> That's exactly what happened to Lionheart on it's first flight, and it was
a
> $14,000 prop that got trashed.  For that reason, I've made my hinge pins
> insert from the fuselage end, rather than the prop end.  I haven't done it
> yet, but I'm going to weld a little washer to the end of the pin (flat)
and
> put a screw through it to retain the pin.  That washer will also serve as
> the "grip" to pull it out with.
>
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama

KR> Cowling joints

[Allen Wiesner]

>The easiest and cleanest setup I have seen and used is to braze a large
"set
>Screw" onto the end of the hinge pin and then form threads in the front lip
>of your cowl to retain the pin. I picked up a couple of 1/4-20 set screws
at
>the local hardware store. Drilled a hole in the bottom end of the set screw
>too fit the hinge pin then brazed them to the forward end of the hinge
pins.
>With the cowls off, I slid the hinge pins into one half of the cowl and
>applied flox around the set screw to form female threads on the cowl (apply
>release to the set screws first) I then glassed over the flox to strengthen
>the bond to the cowl. Once the flox is cured just use your Allen key to
>remove the set screws with pins attached.

A very good idea!  A possible small improvement would be to use a ?floating?
nut plate on a small right angle tab and glass the tab to the cowling.

Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240

(203) 732-0508

flash...@usadatanet.net

KR> cowling

[Dan Walker]

I was wondering what the difference is in the basic vw cowling and the 
revmaster cowling from rand robinson.  I've got a 1915cc mosler engine with the 
diehl accesory case.  electronic ign. and elec. start.  Which one would be a 
better fit.  Also if anyone has a cowling for sale please let me know.  you can 
email me at usafwal...@rap.midco.net  

Thanks, Dan

KR>Cowling

[Colin & Bev Rainey]

Netters,
I am considering extending the cowling to allow the engine to be moved forward 
2-3 inches and was wondering what the simplest way would be to extend the glass 
work to accommodate this with the least amount of effort?  If it is not too 
much trouble, I would like to improve the max weight CG position and aircraft 
stability.
Colin & Bev Rainey
KR2(td) N96TA
Sanford, FL
crain...@cfl.rr.com
or crbrn9...@hotmail.com
http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html

Autoreply: KR>Cowling

[d...@techfocal.com]

This auto reply msg notification has been sent to inform you of the following:

I will be out of the office until Feb 2, 2004 due to a death in my family. I 
will be checking my email and voice msgs periodically while I am away.

Best Regards,
Dan madero


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Netters,
I am considering extending the cowling to allow the engine to be moved =
forward 2-3 inches and was wondering what the simplest way would be to =
extend the glass work to accommodate this with the least amount of =
effort?  If it is not too much trouble, I would like to improve the max =
weight CG position and aircraft stability.
Colin & Bev Rainey
KR2(td) N96TA
Sanford, FL
crain...@cfl.rr.com
or crbrn9...@hotmail.com
http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html___
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Cowling extention

[larry flesner]

>I am considering extending the cowling to allow the engine to be moved
forward 2-3 inches and was wondering what the simplest way would be to
extend the glass work to accommodate this with the least amount of effort? 
>Colin & Bev Rainey
++

I extended my 0-200 cowl, that I purchased from Dan Diehl, two inches
at the rear and approx two inches at the front to accomodate a five
inch prop extention.  My concern was mounting the cowl on this rear
two inch extention.  I was afraid the extention would be weak and a
crack would soon appear at the seam.

The route I took, and I don't know if it is the simplest or easiest, was
to use aluminum strips.  The were maybe 1/16" or so, I don't recall.
I cut strips that were approx 1 1/2" X 6" and flox/glassed them to the
original cowl at each attach point with the alum extending beyond 
the cowl equal to the extention I wanted.  I actually mounted my 
cowl using these strips before filling in the extention with foam and
glass.  I later glassed some 1/4" foam strips on one side that were
slightly larger than the void I had.  After they cured I cut back the 
foam on the forward edge only so it would overlap the cowl and 
removed the foam in the area of the alum strips so it would fit flush.
I glassed these in place with another layer of glass that tied the
fill foam to the original cowl.  When cured I sanded the inside of
the foam flush and finished with a layer of glass.  The front was
extended by gluing foam to the cowl and shaping to the spinner.
This resulted in giving me a nice looking shark nose.  I also 
closed down the cowl inlet holes about one inch on each side
in the process.

The result of these efforts is that my cowl attach points are tied
to the original cowl with metal with the fill adding strength.  With
my cowl firmly attached I could actually bounce the KR up and 
down using the air inlet holes until the wheels nearly come off
the ground and there is zero movement in the cowl.  I had decided
that if I could rip it off I didn't want to be flying behind it. That of 
course was when I had the 0-200 removed. If you go that route
make sure you put enough 1/8" holes in the alum plates for the
flox to flow through and lay on the glass before the flox sets up.
That will make for a really strong bond.

If this doesn't make sense I might have a picture or two I could
e-mail you direct.  I'd have to check my photo album.

Larry Flesner
Carterville, Illinois
2004 Gathering host

KR>cowling connection

[Colin]

My cowling is held together and to the plane/fuselage with zuse fasteners. If 
anyone would like to see pictures, I will take some and post them through Dan.

Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td)
crain...@cfl.rr.com
Sanford, Florida
FLY SAFE

KR>Cowling- and foam problem

[Joseph H Horton]

I have a KR-2S cowl from Rand - Robinson that I will probaly offer up for
sale in the next couple months. I'm in the process
of pulling a mold off it to make one out of carbon fiber. The fit and
finish is OK but I felt the weight was not acceptable with the corvair
under the hood. Yes it does fit around a corvair with plenty of room.
I'm having a little trouble shaping my wing foam. I followed the
instructions by installing 1" foam over 2" ribs in the sections between
spars. I had both wings sanded down to finial shape and came back the
next day and the foam panels between the ribs had bowed up. I sanded to
shape again which thins the foam panel down. Came back again the next day
with humps in the panels. I'm at the point now that I don't want to thin
the foam any more so I added bulk peices of foam scraps to the under side
insde the wing to stiffen the panels before I sand them again hoping that
it stabilizes the foam panels. I don't have the problem in the leading
edge panels or the trailing ege panel, but they are thicker- more like 1
1/2"  to 2" thick. The other factor that may be at work is the hanger is
not insulated and drops to the upper 60's at night and some days into the
90's. 
Anyone else ever have anything like this happen to them? Or any
thoughts?
I can hardly wait to learn the sanding song. Would it sound ok with banjo
backup cause I cann't play the guitar?
Looking forward to meeting everyone in 6 days.
Thanks -- Joe Horton

On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 16:42:55 EDT goreebeth...@aol.com writes:
> I do not personally know about a new engine cowling from R.R. I am 
> thinking 
> about buying one for my KR2S.  I do have a cowling for a KR2.  It 
> has an air 
> inlet at the bottom center location. I did split it top and bottom 
> to widen it 
> to make a cowling for my KR2S.  It could be fiberglassed to 
> reattach. If I 
> can't find a new or used cowling, I will make you a good deal on the 
> one that I 
> have.   Ray Goree  ( goreebeth...@aol.com)
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 

KR>Cowling- and foam problem

[bill kirkland]

Joe; I'm also doing my wings and have a similar problem. The panels scallop
when sanded. bothe the main panel and the leading edge. I also did what ur
doing. Cut 1" x1" strips of foam and glued them to the spars between the
ribs and will glue the 1" panel to the ribs and the supports. The problem is
that when you press on the sanding board the panel depresses and is level
but it pops back up as soon as you take the sanding board off. The other
solution is to build them the way Mark langford does. ie shape the inside of
the panel then fiberglass it, then put the panel in place and sand the top
side. see Marks web site. ps. my sanding board is a 7' length of rectangular
plastic drain pipe covered with the sandpaper that comes in a roll. works
fine.
Let me know how you make out.
W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND
wkirkl...@rogers.com
- Original Message -
From: "Joseph H Horton" <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Cowling- and foam problem


> I have a KR-2S cowl from Rand - Robinson that I will probaly offer up for
> sale in the next couple months. I'm in the process
> of pulling a mold off it to make one out of carbon fiber. The fit and
> finish is OK but I felt the weight was not acceptable with the corvair
> under the hood. Yes it does fit around a corvair with plenty of room.
> I'm having a little trouble shaping my wing foam. I followed the
> instructions by installing 1" foam over 2" ribs in the sections between
> spars. I had both wings sanded down to finial shape and came back the
> next day and the foam panels between the ribs had bowed up. I sanded to
> shape again which thins the foam panel down. Came back again the next day
> with humps in the panels. I'm at the point now that I don't want to thin
> the foam any more so I added bulk peices of foam scraps to the under side
> insde the wing to stiffen the panels before I sand them again hoping that
> it stabilizes the foam panels. I don't have the problem in the leading
> edge panels or the trailing ege panel, but they are thicker- more like 1
> 1/2"  to 2" thick. The other factor that may be at work is the hanger is
> not insulated and drops to the upper 60's at night and some days into the
> 90's.
> Anyone else ever have anything like this happen to them? Or any
> thoughts?
> I can hardly wait to learn the sanding song. Would it sound ok with banjo
> backup cause I cann't play the guitar?
> Looking forward to meeting everyone in 6 days.
> Thanks -- Joe Horton
>
> On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 16:42:55 EDT goreebeth...@aol.com writes:
> > I do not personally know about a new engine cowling from R.R. I am
> > thinking
> > about buying one for my KR2S.  I do have a cowling for a KR2.  It
> > has an air
> > inlet at the bottom center location. I did split it top and bottom
> > to widen it
> > to make a cowling for my KR2S.  It could be fiberglassed to
> > reattach. If I
> > can't find a new or used cowling, I will make you a good deal on the
> > one that I
> > have.   Ray Goree  ( goreebeth...@aol.com)
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Cowling

[JIM VANCE]

I built two cowlings.  On the first one, I plied up the foam, sculpted it to 
shape, and used drywall mud and varnish to finish it.  I plied up the glass and 
epoxy, THEN I sat down in the seat.  I suddenly realized that I would never see 
the runway on final and probably wouldn't see the taxiway I was trying to go 
down.

The second time, I made three plywood templates, one at the nose, one at the 
cooling tin behind the engine, and the third one at the front end of the tappet 
covers.  I then filled in between with the foam.  The end result was that I 
knew exactly where the cowling was going to be in relation to the engine and 
exhaust system, and it was low enough that I have a possible chance of seeing 
where the wheels are going to hit the ground.

I paid a month's tuition to the school of hard knocks:  thought I would pass it 
along to perhaps save you some grief later.

Jim Vance
va...@claflinwildcats.com

KR>Cowling

[Dan Heath]

Jim,

This could be a keeper.  Please tell us more about how you finished it.  How
many layers of glass, did you sandwich it, how did you make the attachment
where it comes apart?  Your start sounds great.

I am curious though, can you see anything on landing? 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

---Original Message---

From: KR builders and pilots
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 8:46:45 PM
To: krnet
Subject: KR>Cowling

I built two cowlings. On the first one, I plied up the foam, sculpted it to
shape, and used drywall mud and varnish to finish it. I plied up the glass
and epoxy, THEN I sat down in the seat. I suddenly realized that I would
never see the runway on final and probably wouldn't see the taxiway I was
trying to go down.

The second time, I made three plywood templates, one at the nose, one at the
cooling tin behind the engine, and the third one at the front end of the
tappet covers. I then filled in between with the foam. The end result was
that I knew exactly where the cowling was going to be in relation to the
engine and exhaust system, and it was low enough that I have a possible
chance of seeing where the wheels are going to hit the ground.

I paid a month's tuition to the school of hard knocks: thought I would pass
it along to perhaps save you some grief later.

 Jim Vance
 Vance@ClaflinWildcats
com___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
. 

KR>Cowling

[JIM VANCE]

Dan,

In answer to your question about finishing my cowling mold, I used quick drying 
drywall mud, and applied it about 1/8 inch thick.  I then sanded it to final 
shape, ending with about 400 grit paper.  I applied three coats of varnish, 
letting them dry 24 hours between coats.  (By the way, the varnish will soften 
the drywall, so it will be streaked if you use a bristle brush.)  I found the 
foam brushes give a much better finish.

I applied three liberal coats of alcohol based mold release (bought it at 
Spruce), then plied up three plies of glass.  I plied them at 60 degree.  

I split the top and bottom, then reattached it using aluminum piano hinge and 
flathead pop rivets. I put a 1/4 inch thick layer of Lastafoam on the inside, 
then one coat of KR glass.

The bottom cowling is attached with piano hinges at the sides and bottom.  The 
rear of the top cowling connects with six Dzus fasteners.

Your final question was whether I see anything on landing.  Usually, I'm so 
scared of landing hard that I usually have my eyes closed in the flare.
Actually, I'm about a year from flying the KR-2.

See you in Red Oak.

Jim Vance
va...@claflinwildcats.com

KR>Cowling

[Dan Heath]

Jim,

I'm glad you are going to be there, we can talk more about it there.  I do
believe that I am going to have to build another cowl either before I fly or
after the ugly of this one causes me to choke. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

---Original Message---

From: KR builders and pilots
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 7:24:23 AM
To: krnet
Subject: KR>Cowling

Dan,

In answer to your question about finishing my cowling mold, I used quick
drying drywall mud, and applied it about 1/8 inch thick. I then sanded it to
final shape, ending with about 400 grit paper. I applied three coats of
varnish, letting them dry 24 hours between coats. (By the way, the varnish
will soften the drywall, so it will be streaked if you use a bristle brush.)
I found the foam brushes give a much better finish.

I applied three liberal coats of alcohol based mold release (bought it at
Spruce), then plied up three plies of glass. I plied them at 60 degree.

I split the top and bottom, then reattached it using aluminum piano hinge
and flathead pop rivets. I put a 1/4 inch thick layer of Lastafoam on the
inside, then one coat of KR glass.

The bottom cowling is attached with piano hinges at the sides and bottom.
The rear of the top cowling connects with six Dzus fasteners.

Your final question was whether I see anything on landing. Usually, I'm so
scared of landing hard that I usually have my eyes closed in the flare.
Actually, I'm about a year from flying the KR-2.

See you in Red Oak.

 Jim Vance
 Vance@ClaflinWildcats
com___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
. 

KR>Cowling

[Bob Sauer]

It's cowling time!  Has anyone bought a KR2S cowling from RR and would comment 
on the fit and quality?   OR  one final appeal to anyone that has a spare 
cowling that could be adapted to the KR2S or is making or has a mold and could 
make an extra to sell, I would appreciate hearing from someone.

Thanks

From: resa...@cox.net
Sun City West, AZ

KR>Cowling

[Sylvester Stys]

KR Netters
I am also looking for a cowl that will fit a KR2, Revmaster 2100 with 2"
thread spool extensions
(last major part before flight). Reply on or offline.
s.j.s...@worldnet.att.net
- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Sauer" <resa...@cox.net>
To: "kr" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: KR>Cowling


It's cowling time!  Has anyone bought a KR2S cowling from RR and would
comment on the fit and quality?   OR  one final appeal to anyone that has a
spare cowling that could be adapted to the KR2S or is making or has a mold
and could make an extra to sell, I would appreciate hearing from someone.

Thanks

From: resa...@cox.net
Sun City West, AZ___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Cowling

[goreebeth...@aol.com]

I do not personally know about a new engine cowling from R.R. I am thinking 
about buying one for my KR2S.  I do have a cowling for a KR2.  It has an air 
inlet at the bottom center location. I did split it top and bottom to widen it 
to make a cowling for my KR2S.  It could be fiberglassed to reattach. If I 
can't find a new or used cowling, I will make you a good deal on the one that I 
have.   Ray Goree  ( goreebeth...@aol.com)

KR>Cowling

[Kenneth L Wiltrout]

I used the RR cowling and have the 2100 Revmaster. There was a lot of
cutting and fitting but the look is excellant. You need to cut in the air
intake for oil cooler. I dropped the bottom to accept the carb and
installed ram air as well., all this took time. Don't think because it is
premolded that u drill the mounting holes and your done---it's still
a lot of workbut yes I'd do it again.



On Sat, 30 Aug 2003 15:10:52 -0700 "Bob Sauer"  writes:
> It's cowling time!  Has anyone bought a KR2S cowling from RR and 
> would comment on the fit and quality?   OR  one final appeal to 
> anyone that has a spare cowling that could be adapted to the KR2S or 
> is making or has a mold and could make an extra to sell, I would 
> appreciate hearing from someone.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> From: resa...@cox.net
> Sun City West, AZ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 


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KR>Cowling

[Bob Sauer]

Anyone have a cowling that would work with a Corvair engine they would like to 
sell?

Contact me off-net at:

From: resa...@cox.net

KR>Cowling and update

[William Clapp]

I also am interested in a Kr2s cowl that may work for corvair engine.  I heard 
the Mark L. may pull some off of his mold but as busy as he is it could be some 
time.  It would be a good idea though to make some available to all the corvair 
guys.  I may end up building my own if need be but I am not quite to the engine 
installation yet.  I do hope to have my engine together within the next month 
though.  I finally got some TRW pistons and some parts I needed.   Right now I 
am working on tanks, new seat ( I lowered it two inches for better headroom and 
comfort).  I am debating dual sticks but I really want to keep this simple.   
Back to work.  Regards - Bill

KR>cowling

[larry severson]

>I am starting on the cowling. Contouring with blocks of foam makes sense, 
>but how does one join the blocks? Everything that I have tried either has 
>insufficient holding power, or is too hard to sand, leaving ridges.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR>cowling

[mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com]

Larry,

The best thing to resolve your issue is to put some two part pour in place
foam on the edges and let it "weld" the blocks together.  This way you end
up with a continuous foam core without gaps or hard glue joints.  It works
out great because you don't need to be too careful about fit of the blocks
because the foam will expand to fill up any gaps.

Regards,

Bob Lee
__
N52BL   KR2   Suwanee, GA  30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax:   770/844-7501
mailto:b...@flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com



-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+bob=flyboybob@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+bob=flyboybob@mylist.net]On Behalf Of larry
severson
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 3:01 PM
To: KR builders and pilots
Subject: KR>cowling



>I am starting on the cowling. Contouring with blocks of foam makes sense,
>but how does one join the blocks? Everything that I have tried either has
>insufficient holding power, or is too hard to sand, leaving ridges.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com


___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>cowling

[Ron Eason]

I've used urathane glue which is like the foam but more controlable and is 
chemically the same material like the pourable foam.

Ron

-- Original Message --
From: "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <b...@flyboybob.com>
Reply-To: KR builders and pilots <kr...@mylist.net>
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 15:34:23 -0400

>Larry,
>
>The best thing to resolve your issue is to put some two part pour in place
>foam on the edges and let it "weld" the blocks together.  This way you end
>up with a continuous foam core without gaps or hard glue joints.  It works
>out great because you don't need to be too careful about fit of the blocks
>because the foam will expand to fill up any gaps.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bob Lee
>__
>N52BL   KR2   Suwanee, GA  30024
>91% done only 51% to go!
>Phone/Fax:   770/844-7501
>mailto:b...@flyboybob.com
>http://flyboybob.com
>
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: krnet-bounces+bob=flyboybob@mylist.net
>[mailto:krnet-bounces+bob=flyboybob@mylist.net]On Behalf Of larry
>severson
>Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 3:01 PM
>To: KR builders and pilots
>Subject: KR>cowling
>
>
>
>>I am starting on the cowling. Contouring with blocks of foam makes sense,
>>but how does one join the blocks? Everything that I have tried either has
>>insufficient holding power, or is too hard to sand, leaving ridges.
>
>Larry Severson
>Fountain Valley, CA 92708
>(714) 968-9852
>lar...@socal.rr.com
>
>
>___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>
>___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

--
Ronald R. Eason Sr.
Pres. & CEO, KCMO Office
J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd.
816-468-4091, Kansas City, MO. 
Jim Eason V.P, 770-446-1291, Atlanta, Georgia
Web Page: www.jrl-engineering.com

--