[lace] Tonder/Bucks

2009-01-19 Thread Lorelei Halley
Sue and David
OIDFA had a study group going in the late 90s to clarify exactly that point.
There is a large class of laces, now called "point ground laces".  Virtually
every lacemaking country in the 19th century made a version of this kind of
lace.  Point ground, of course, is CTTT pin.  So in 2001 OIDFA published a
booklet detailing the results of their research into the specific national
geographic differences between all the point ground laces, including Bucks,
Tonder, Bayeux, etc.  The booklet is called POINT GROUND LACE, ISBN 0 95406960
9.  It is very detailed, with more information than I ever expected to find.
It includes things like how the footside was usually worked, how tallies were
spotted in the net and if they appeared in the net, how the headside was
worked and the extra pairs stored there, etc.  It also lists the huge number
of books they consulted.
Lorelei

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[lace] Bucks versus Toender et al

2009-01-19 Thread David in Ballarat

Dear Sue,

I am an avid Bucks Point fan but try as I might I cannot detect
what the essential difference is between Bucks and Tonder perhaps you could
enlighten me.


In my experience the main differences are these:-
- Toender is worked in the opposite direction from Bucks (but I don't)
- Toender is characterized by - large holes surrounded by honeycomb stitch

I find these days that regardless of which point ground lace I am 
making, I use Chantilly techniques, and probably a few I've developed 
myself. The end result looks lovely and only a lace-maker could tell 
the difference.


I very rarely fill in a petal for a floral motif with whole stitch - 
too easy to see when you either have too many or too few bobbins. 
Half stitch is much more forgiving.
Also, I never put any extra twists on the inside of a gimp in a 
motif. That way the filling always comes right up to the gimp. 
Sometimes I will add an extra one or two on the outside to compensate.
I use Elwyn KENN's "looper" technique whenever possible in order to 
avoid the need for adding in short extra gimps.

Can't thank of anything else relevant right now
David in Ballarat



Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK


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[lace] threads

2009-01-19 Thread Elizabeth Ligeti
The beauty of Polycotton thread is that is holds its shape, and never
creases!!
The bad part is that it is springy and wants to do it's own thing, - not what
I want it to do!  The half-hitch does not always stay done up for one thing.

However, I find lace made from a good polycotton is useful, - especially for
Lace to Wear, as it looks like it is brand new and just off the pillow, no
matter how old it is,and how badly treated when not in use!

Lots of great colours, too.
Regards from Liz in Melbourne, Oz, where it is uncomfortably hot today - 37ºC
or about 100ºF.
lizl...@bigpond.com

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Re: [lace] Victorian Farm now Scottish jackets

2009-01-19 Thread Rochelle Sutherland
There are a number of different styles of Scottish jacket. The most common is
a Prince Charlie, which is very like a normal dinner jacket, but shorter. It's
worn with a vest and bow tie and is always black. The other types are single
and double breasted variations with or without flaps at the hem including the
Montrose, Kenmore and Sherrifmuir. They are worn with jabot and cuffs in
lace, and they are made of either black suiting fabric or coloured velvet to
match a main colour of the kilt. They are all fitted so it is hard work making
them. I have to make two this year for my sons who are highland dancing. Not
looking forward to it. 

A tip for buttons. Instead of sewing, use an awl to
punch a hole and push the large shank at the back of the button through the
fabric and thread a piece of cord through it long enough to join all
buttons. Then just sew either end of the cord at the top and bottom of the
front of the jacket. It makes the buttons sit better and you don't lose any,
but you have to be careful with the awl not to damage the fabric.

One little
boy came to a comp last year minus his white shirt. So we found a safety pin,
borrowed a strip of lace and folded the lapels of his Prince Charlie up,
then covered the front with the lace and he was able to dance. And he
beat me.
 
---
Rochelle Sutherland 
&
Lachlan (10 yrs), Duncan (9 yrs) and
Iain (7 yrs)
www.houseofhadrian.com.au





From: Karen Zammit Manduca 
To: Sue
; Brenda Paternoster 
Cc:
Arachne 
Sent: Tuesday, 20 January, 2009 2:55:41 AM
Subject:
RE: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

How would you change a
suit jacket into a Scottish one? What is so
different?
Just interested.
Karen
in Malta


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[lace] Italian translation, please?

2009-01-19 Thread Tamara P Duvall

Gentle Spiders,

In the book I'm currently reading (The Dress of the Venetians, 
1495-1525; by Stella Mary Newton), among the many untranslated Italian 
(and/or Venetian) words/phrases/sentences there's one, which I'd 
really, really would like to know the *exact* meaning of.


It's: Provedadori sopra le pompe

I learnt, from various contexts (the phrase keeps coming up again and 
again), what it *is*. It's a little committee of 3 people who are, in 
essence, "clothes police". They investigate the clothing transgressions 
of upper class women (mostly), bring them to the attention of the Grand 
Council, which then debates, legislates and issues new proclamations 
forbidding this, that or the other (dresses have to be of single colour 
only; no brocades. Sleeves have to be "straight and narrow"; none of 
the "ducal" or "bird's craw" excesses. Sleeves should use no more than 
2 yards of fabric per pair, even on the undershirts. Etc).


So, I do know what they *do*; what I don't know is what the committee's 
title means, literally. Do we have someone with fluent Italian who can 
translate the title for me? I can make a stab at the "le pompe" bit; I 
assume it's "pomp" in the sense of "pomp and circumstance". But, the 
other two words, in that particular configuration...?

--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)
 
 


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[lace] floral torchon

2009-01-19 Thread Lorelei Halley
Dona
I realize this answer is very late relative to your inquiry.  I have seen some
individual floral torchon patterns designed by Geraldine Stott and they are
very pretty.  I have not seen the whole book, but based on the individual
ones, I'd say use hers.  She is a very good designer with clear diagrams.
Lorelei

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[lace] chemical lace

2009-01-19 Thread Lorelei Halley
Sue
Chemical lace is a machine made lace based on embroidery.  the base fabric is
some kind of synthetic which can be easily dissolved with acid or some other
chemical solution.  The machine does cotton thread embroidery upon the
synthetic fabric.  The embroidery pattern is designed in such a way that the
needles go back and forth catching other parts already embroidered.  The
entire fabric is then soaked in an acid or chemical bath to dissolve the
background fabric.  Then just the cotton embroidery threads are left.
Chemical lace.  I don't know exactly when this technique was developped.
Lorelei

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RE: [lace] Tamara's Toss

2009-01-19 Thread Sue
Thanks for update David, I have been wondering whether your Tonder piece was
finished yet, another question as I hope to start making some myself
shortly, I am an avid Bucks Point fan but try as I might I cannot detect
what the essential difference is between Bucks and Tonder perhaps you could
enlighten me.

Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK

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[lace] Lace Guild website update

2009-01-19 Thread Jean Leader
We've just added a new selection of items from the Lace Guild's  
Collection to the Lace Gallery which you can access from the Guild  
page - url below.


You'll also find some new items on the Errata page (accessed from  
Publications). Thank you to Jean Nathan for recently pointing out an  
error in 'An Introduction to Bucks Point Lace' . You'll find  the  
correction on the Errata page together with some in other Lace  Guild  
publications including 'Lace'. Do please let us know if you think  
you've come across an error in any of the Lace Guild's books or the  
magazine - you'll even find a 'Report an error' form on the web site  
to make it easy for you.


Jean and David in Glasgow where we had snow yesterday but it's all  
gone now


---
Jean and David Leader
Lace Guild website: http://www.laceguild.org

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Re: [lace] Thread Identification

2009-01-19 Thread Tamara P Duvall

On Jan 19, 2009, at 10:51, laceandb...@aol.com wrote:

Most of the threads on large plastic cones are industrial threads so 
although that

doesn't exclude cotton and linen,


The large (1000m) cones of both Bouc and Fresia linen had been wound on 
plastic cones for years (though I don't know for how many. 15 at 
least). Some of them have their labels *inside* rather than outside, so 
that's another possiblity of finding out what the thread is.


--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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Re: [lace] Cleaning Lace/Other - Long

2009-01-19 Thread Jeriames
Per Susan:  "I am sure you all here have a wealth of info on the  best ways 
to clean lace or keep it white." 
 
Oh!  My!  
 
Once again, the clean laces in my archival storage boxes are  levitating!
 
This is for the new members of Arachne.
 
Lace should not be compared with clothing washed with heavy duty  soap.  
Functional clothing is usually not saved (collected).  In  the past, clothing 
was 
worn until it became rags, then  discarded.  Today, being unfashionable is an 
excuse for getting rid of  clothing before the effects of washing become 
apparent.  Lace is an  entirely different matter.
 
The first course of action when washing lace should be to use  distilled 
water and the least invasive soap recommended by museum  conservators.  Lace 
can 
last hundreds of years, if properly wet  cleaned.  My collection represents 4 
Centuries, is varied as to type,  and quite large.
 
I learned  about cleaning embroideries in museum  conservation classes, and 
adapted the methods for laces.  Some of my lace  was extremely filthy when 
acquired.  Usually I re-wash laces that  antiques dealers have washed pre-sale 
because I know they have used  questionable products and methods. 
 
Would you drink the last rinse water in which your laces were wet  cleaned?  
That is what the professionals ask.  Bear in mind that  cleaning agents are 
never completely rinsed out and they reside in the fibers  with new chemicals 
forever, perhaps developing a chemical reaction.  
 
Commercial soaps are nearly always made from very  unfriendly-to-lace 
chemicals.  It is not advisable to use directions for  washing laces that have 
been 
passed down by  great grandmothers OR that appear in books published before  
about the mid-20th Century, when textile conservation became a concern, and  
museum-qualified conservators began to write advice on this subject.   Often, 
when lace conservation methods are not employed, it eventually becomes  
necessary 
to restore the laces.  Restored laces (repaired) are no longer  "original", 
and immediately lose value.   
 
The new "Oxi" soaps, which every soap maker has recently introduced to  the 
market may all have the same basic ingredients, but in different  quantities, 
and perhaps with some "additions".  What is of real concern is  that 
manufacturers are free to change the formulas and do not notify  you.  For 
instance - 
adding lanolin to make soap kind to your hands.   You do not know for sure what 
is in trendy soaps.  Some ingredients  are attractive to insects.  Lanolin is 
one.  Perfumes are  not good for lace.  One **never** scrubs lace!  You float 
it in  distilled water to which an appropriate cleaning agent has been  added. 
 The fibers will expand and release stains.  Depending on the  strength of 
lace, it can be soaked for varying periods, with water changes as  needed.  
After the final rinse, lace may still look stained when wet, but  will dry to 
be 
much improved.  Would you drink the final rinse  water?
 
You are invited to read my free extensive instructions on the  subject.
 
Go to _www.honitonlace.com_ (http://www.honitonlace.com)  and  you'll find 
them there.  Click on "Cleaning lace" - the next-to-last  choice in LEFT 
column. 
 Then, click on the option in first paragraph  of the next screen. 
 
If you are new to this subject, please print out the instructions and  keep 
them in a binder for the time when they are needed.  Read  through them 
completely before you start to wash lace, so you'll have everything  needed and 
you'll avoid serious pitfalls. 
 
Jeri  Ames
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

 
In a message dated 1/19/2009 10:53:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
elationrelat...@yahoo.com writes:

The  yellow bar was Fells Naptha I am sure (made by Dial), which is available 
still  today and very good for taking out most any stain very well except 
grease (of  which I use Citrol, a mechanic's degreaser from the autonotive 
supply 
 stores).  A fair substitute is a hand milled French soap.  My  grandmother 
made lye soap which served similarly, and was used often for the  washing 
within those "wringer washers" also.  Occasionally I see that  people make and 
sell 
it at fairs, but perhaps is available online. 

I  fear that many simple things are being lost, like putting table salt on 
red  wine spilled on lace or a tablecloth, which removes it completely.  I  
wonder if the soda on grandma's shelf had any other purpose other than to  
sweeten 
a load, such as mens clothes from working on the farm or a heavy  job.  

My mother used to use borax in her loads along with  Lanosheen and her 
detergent.  She would soak her white towels from the  store to get them even 
whiter. 
 Now she used Miracle White along with her  favorite detergent, and it 
doesn't seem to weaken fiber like oxygen cleaners  (or of course bleach!)  

I am sure you all here have a wealth of  info on the best ways to clean lace 
or keep it white.  

My main  frustration is to pull out

Re: [lace] Thread Identification

2009-01-19 Thread Francis Busschaert

hi hallo,
an other small test is fire
just burn a bit
and smell
if it smells like paper it will be cotton or linnen or hemp (could be 
hemp if you say it is that old, hemp was sometimes trangly more 
available then linnen)
then you do the Brenda  magnifying test for making the difference to 
long (linnen) and short staples (cotton)


if it smells quite burned plastic ..well. c'est la vie
if it smells like you are burning hear or burning pigs skin
then you might think it is raw silk

francis
belgium
no more freezing
now it is raining
and wet
and dirty
...


laceandb...@aol.com schreef:

Delores,
Two other factors can make thread stiff; one is the amount of twist.  There 
was a cotton thread called Unity that was around when I started making lace 
(about 30 years ago) which was *the thread* for Bucks as it was highly twisted 
and the lace made with it was *crisp*.


Some threads are starched on the reel; Gutterman's cotton quilting thread is 
one.  This is starched to make it smooth to sew with, but when it is washed it 
fluffs up a tid and is much softer.  Disappointing for lacemaking if you 
weren't expecting it.


Linen thread on the reel often doesn't feel that much different to cotton.  
It is when you was if and iron it damp with a hot iron that the difference 
shows.  Linen feels like it has been starched.  

Brenda's tip about looking at the length of the individual fibres is probably 
the best and easiest, but I do also wonder if it might be poly-cotton.  Most 
of the threads on large plastic cones are industrial threads so although that 
doesn't exclude cotton and linen, it is also very likely that it is at least 
partly synthetic.  If that is the case, we need to go back to Brenda again and 
ask if polyester used for a cotton look-alike sewing thread is continuous 
filament or short staple.  

No reason you can't use it for lacemaking (sharp intake of breath from the 
purists, perhaps).  In fact if you ever want to mount lace on poly-cotton fabric 
it makes sense to use a compatible thread for the lace.  When you came to 
wash and iron, the care instructions are the same for both.  Malvary and I have 
several blouses of Mum's, with applied lace, and some are cotton thread, some 
polyester, but they all look just as good 20 or so years on.


Jacquie in England

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Re: [lace] bookmarks for Obama

2009-01-19 Thread Ilske Thomsen

Bev,
the text says that they will be made not that they are finished.  
Sorry , we have still to wait.


Ilske

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Re: [lace] bookmarks for Obama

2009-01-19 Thread bev walker
They are made, perhaps they aren't uploaded yet. But they must be somewhere,
maybe at the Museum site itself. I'll try to find them to share the link,
because they are really beautiful.

On Mon, Jan 19, 2009 at 10:51 AM, Margot Walker
wrote:

> I think there are no photos because the press release says the the museum
> "will" be making the bookmarks.  In other words, they aren't made yet.
>
> On 19 Jan 2009, at 14:43, bev walker wrote:
>
>  Hi all
>>
>> I have just received a press release from Musée de Retournac about the 12
>> bookmarks sent with 12 books from la Ville Retournac in France to the US
>> Presidential Inauguration. There are two lovely photos, one of a bookmark
>> in
>>
>

--
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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[lace] bookmarks for Obama

2009-01-19 Thread Margot Walker
I think there are no photos because the press release says the the  
museum "will" be making the bookmarks.  In other words, they aren't  
made yet.


On 19 Jan 2009, at 14:43, bev walker wrote:


Hi all

I have just received a press release from Musée de Retournac about  
the 12
bookmarks sent with 12 books from la Ville Retournac in France to  
the US
Presidential Inauguration. There are two lovely photos, one of a  
bookmark in
progress, and the other of several of the beautiful bookmarks, on  
an art
nouveau theme. I tried to find them at their website, to share with  
you -
perhaps someone with a fast connection can locate the photos  
(probably in

the press-release section).



Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada
Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site:
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot

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[lace] bookmarks for Obama

2009-01-19 Thread bev walker
Hi all

I have just received a press release from Musée de Retournac about the 12
bookmarks sent with 12 books from la Ville Retournac in France to the US
Presidential Inauguration. There are two lovely photos, one of a bookmark in
progress, and the other of several of the beautiful bookmarks, on an art
nouveau theme. I tried to find them at their website, to share with you -
perhaps someone with a fast connection can locate the photos (probably in
the press-release section).

The headline is here:
http://www.ville-retournac.fr/actualite%2010.html

--
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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Re: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

2009-01-19 Thread Sue
We are going out to a Burns night supper on saturday for my 60th birthday, 
(did I just admit to that, LOL).  My husband has a kilt I made to wear at 
our living history camps and usually wears a red soldiers coat from the 
period 1800's.  He has socks/hose, sparren but no modern jacket, so we have 
reshaped the bottom of a normal suit jacket,  Put different pocket flaps on 
with raised seams, epaulettes, and a nice shape sleeve decoration in 
perference to a fancy cuff.   Now I just have to sew on lots of small 
thistle buttons and then sew the lining up and its done.  It has been hard 
work pushing and pulling the firm cloth, so will be very pleased when its 
finished.   It is a very long time since I did so much hand sewing, I am so 
grateful for my anglepoise lamp and light I use for my lacemaking.
He also has the lace jabot I made about 5 years ago, but not sure if he will 
wear that or not.



How would you change a suit jacket into a Scottish one? What is so
different?
Just interested.
Karen in Malta

I see what you mean about being recognisable,  Thank you for you explanation
and for the link which I found very interesting.
I have a lace butterfly bought in Bruge in the 1980s which I wonder if its
done in this way.
When I bought it I bought it as a pretty brooch of lace that I liked, but
now see so many possibilities of what it might be.
Well better get back to my major task for this week which is converting a
mans suit jacket to a scottish one to wear with a kilt.  Didn't expect quite

so many changes and quite so much hand sewing so its been very hard on my
hands and eyes.  A bit each day and then I can work on my lace at night.
BTW for those who made suggestions to help me last year hunting down music
in lace I have managed to adapt a pattern (widen it and change bits) to give

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RE: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

2009-01-19 Thread Karen Zammit Manduca
How would you change a suit jacket into a Scottish one? What is so
different?
Just interested.
Karen in Malta

-Original Message-
From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of
Sue
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 3:26 PM
To: Brenda Paternoster
Cc: Arachne
Subject: Re: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

I see what you mean about being recognisable,  Thank you for you explanation

and for the link which I found very interesting.
I have a lace butterfly bought in Bruge in the 1980s which I wonder if its 
done in this way.
When I bought it I bought it as a pretty brooch of lace that I liked, but 
now see so many possibilities of what it might be.
Well better get back to my major task for this week which is converting a 
mans suit jacket to a scottish one to wear with a kilt.  Didn't expect quite

so many changes and quite so much hand sewing so its been very hard on my 
hands and eyes.  A bit each day and then I can work on my lace at night.
BTW for those who made suggestions to help me last year hunting down music 
in lace I have managed to adapt a pattern (widen it and change bits) to give

me a treble clef and musical notes, and am now one week in having done 
almost half the first of 4 napkin strips.  The treble clef is difficult but 
the rest is working well and quickly.
Sue T

Hello Sue

Chemical lace is cotton embroidery on acetate fabric, then the whole
lot is steeped in acetone or something similar to dissolve away the
acetate leaving only the embroidery.  Discovered in the 1880s I think
so Victorian but slightly late for the 1850s setting of the TV
programme.

http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/Chemical.html
Once you've seen a few pieces of chemical lace it's very recognisable
even though it can have so many different styles.

Brenda

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Re: [lace] Thread Identification

2009-01-19 Thread Laceandbits
Delores,
Two other factors can make thread stiff; one is the amount of twist.  There 
was a cotton thread called Unity that was around when I started making lace 
(about 30 years ago) which was *the thread* for Bucks as it was highly twisted 
and the lace made with it was *crisp*.

Some threads are starched on the reel; Gutterman's cotton quilting thread is 
one.  This is starched to make it smooth to sew with, but when it is washed it 
fluffs up a tid and is much softer.  Disappointing for lacemaking if you 
weren't expecting it.

Linen thread on the reel often doesn't feel that much different to cotton.  
It is when you was if and iron it damp with a hot iron that the difference 
shows.  Linen feels like it has been starched.  

Brenda's tip about looking at the length of the individual fibres is probably 
the best and easiest, but I do also wonder if it might be poly-cotton.  Most 
of the threads on large plastic cones are industrial threads so although that 
doesn't exclude cotton and linen, it is also very likely that it is at least 
partly synthetic.  If that is the case, we need to go back to Brenda again and 
ask if polyester used for a cotton look-alike sewing thread is continuous 
filament or short staple.  

No reason you can't use it for lacemaking (sharp intake of breath from the 
purists, perhaps).  In fact if you ever want to mount lace on poly-cotton 
fabric 
it makes sense to use a compatible thread for the lace.  When you came to 
wash and iron, the care instructions are the same for both.  Malvary and I have 
several blouses of Mum's, with applied lace, and some are cotton thread, some 
polyester, but they all look just as good 20 or so years on.

Jacquie in England

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Re: [lace] Thread Identification

2009-01-19 Thread Delores Miller

Thank you Brenda,

There is no label.  The 'cone' is a plastic cyclinder and is not smooth.  It 
is about 5 inches in diameter and the thread is ecru.  It was purchased from 
a discount yarn shop in the sixties.  I have used it to make samples of 
edgings when I first started lace making in the nineties.  It has a 
stiffness to it that makes me think it is linen.  It is still very stong and 
I would like to use it for a table cloth edging and was curious.  I will try 
washing a piece first.


Delores Miller 


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Re: [lace] Tamara's Toss

2009-01-19 Thread Sister Claire
David, your work is so beautiful... I'll never be in your class but it is
inspiring, nonetheless!
Sr. Claire

On Mon, Jan 19, 2009 at 4:23 PM, David in Ballarat
wrote:

> Dear Friends,
> Some of you may recall that large piece of Toender lace I've been working
> on. Well this week I finally got back to it after about 18 months doing
> other things! I've added a couple more inches this week and am half way
> through turning the last of the 4 corners.
>
> Whilst making one of the numerous tallies, I was half way through one when
> the phone rang. I instantly recalled what I've always thought of an
> "Tamara's Toss" - because it was the Duchess who taught it to me. That is,
> when in the situation in which I found myself, you simply toss the working
> bobbin straight over the back away from you and that tally will not move.
>
> Thanks T - I've done it often.
>
> What has amazed me this week, is that after almost 18 months away from a
> piece, I can recall exactly how many passes in the average tally (32) and
> how many pairs I needed in the various floral motifs.
>
> So now I have about half of the last side to do and will post some more
> photos as soon as the progress is worthwhile. For those who want to see this
> piece, go to:-
> http://www.margorsson.com/Men_n_Lace.html
> and click on David Collyer
>
> Enjoy
> David in Ballarat
>
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> arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
>

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Re: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

2009-01-19 Thread Sue
I see what you mean about being recognisable,  Thank you for you explanation 
and for the link which I found very interesting.
I have a lace butterfly bought in Bruge in the 1980s which I wonder if its 
done in this way.
When I bought it I bought it as a pretty brooch of lace that I liked, but 
now see so many possibilities of what it might be.
Well better get back to my major task for this week which is converting a 
mans suit jacket to a scottish one to wear with a kilt.  Didn't expect quite 
so many changes and quite so much hand sewing so its been very hard on my 
hands and eyes.  A bit each day and then I can work on my lace at night.
BTW for those who made suggestions to help me last year hunting down music 
in lace I have managed to adapt a pattern (widen it and change bits) to give 
me a treble clef and musical notes, and am now one week in having done 
almost half the first of 4 napkin strips.  The treble clef is difficult but 
the rest is working well and quickly.

Sue T

Hello Sue

Chemical lace is cotton embroidery on acetate fabric, then the whole
lot is steeped in acetone or something similar to dissolve away the
acetate leaving only the embroidery.  Discovered in the 1880s I think
so Victorian but slightly late for the 1850s setting of the TV
programme.

http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/Chemical.html
Once you've seen a few pieces of chemical lace it's very recognisable
even though it can have so many different styles.

Brenda

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[lace] Tamara's Toss

2009-01-19 Thread David in Ballarat

Dear Friends,
Some of you may recall that large piece of Toender lace I've been 
working on. Well this week I finally got back to it after about 18 
months doing other things! I've added a couple more inches this week 
and am half way through turning the last of the 4 corners.


Whilst making one of the numerous tallies, I was half way through one 
when the phone rang. I instantly recalled what I've always thought of 
an "Tamara's Toss" - because it was the Duchess who taught it to me. 
That is, when in the situation in which I found myself, you simply 
toss the working bobbin straight over the back away from you and that 
tally will not move.


Thanks T - I've done it often.

What has amazed me this week, is that after almost 18 months away 
from a piece, I can recall exactly how many passes in the average 
tally (32) and how many pairs I needed in the various floral motifs.


So now I have about half of the last side to do and will post some 
more photos as soon as the progress is worthwhile. For those who want 
to see this piece, go to:-

http://www.margorsson.com/Men_n_Lace.html
and click on David Collyer

Enjoy
David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

2009-01-19 Thread Brenda Paternoster

Hello Sue

Chemical lace is cotton embroidery on acetate fabric, then the whole 
lot is steeped in acetone or something similar to dissolve away the 
acetate leaving only the embroidery.  Discovered in the 1880s I think 
so Victorian but slightly late for the 1850s setting of the TV 
programme.


http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/Chemical.html
Once you've seen a few pieces of chemical lace it's very recognisable 
even though it can have so many different styles.


Brenda

On 19 Jan 2009, at 11:45, Sue wrote:

Brenda, you may have seen this coming, but I now have to ask what 
chemical lace is please?




Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Fw: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276

2009-01-19 Thread Sue
Brenda, you may have seen this coming, but I now have to ask what chemical 
lace is please?

Thank you for such great info on the rest of the email, brilliant.
I think that they filming would have been done at different points and the 
producer showing what they showed in the time allotted to each program.


I am enjoying watching it though, some reminds mr of my childhood, like you 
being involved with mangling clothes, but also with the family research it 
gives a possible insight into one branch of the family around that time. 
Farming 17 acres of land in the mid late 1800s.
No lacemaker known in that side, but onewife and daughter in the Devon 
family whose husband and sons were farm labourers.  It feels a bit like 
looking through their window watching how they lived.

Sue T


I saw the Saturday repeat.  The regular pinned up lappets looked rather
like chemical lace to me, but there wasn't a good enough shot of it to
be sure.  Yes, the Christmas lappets were Bedfordshre, or rather
Beds-Maltese with a meandering cloth stitch trail running down the
length of the lace.

I do agree that things were sometimes filmed/shown out of order.
When Ruth was doing the laundry at one point she mentioned starching -
after the laundry had been dried!  They didn't use cans of spray-on
starch then  It was a case of mixing the starch powder with a little
cold water and then adding boiling water (to cook the starch, much the
same as making
Bird's custard) diluting with more (cold) water and then dipping the
laundry into it followed by mangling and drying.

They showed her using various things like milk or alcohol to loosen
stains, and making up the 'blue' for whitening so I'm surprised they
didn't show the starching process.

I'm old enough to remember my Grandma using a similar mangle in the
1950s.  I was allowed to turn the handle but not to feed the washing
into the rollers!  They had a separate brick built outhouse for the
laundry and I think the only mod-con was a cold water tap, but there
was probably some sort of boiler to heat the water.  Made-up starch and
the blue-bag lived on a high shelf along with soda and a bar of yellow
soap.

BTW, that process of squeezing wet fabric between two rollers is what I
call mangling.  Using a rolling pin over wet fabric between towels is
just rolling  - like rolling out pastry!
Brenda

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Re: [lace] Thread Identification

2009-01-19 Thread Brenda Paternoster

Hello Delores

I have a 1950s book "The Identification of Textile Fibres" which goes 
into great detail about microscopic and chemical tests to distinguish 
one fibre from another, but unless you have your own laboratory to 
hand


If you are just trying to decide between linen and cotton the best 
thing is to look at it with a powerful magnifier, at least x8.  Untwist 
the plies and then untwist a single ply and the individual fibres will 
separate out.  If it's cotton none of the fibres will be more than 
about an inch or so long, if it's linen they will be much longer, up to 
about a metre/yard in length.  Also spun linen/flax tends to have slubs 
in it whilst cotton is generally much more uniform.  Linen thread is 
nearly always spun in the S direction, cotton can be either.


Is there a label on this cone? or anything printed onto the cone itself?

Brenda

Could someone tell me how to test a thread to see if it might be 
linen?  I
have a large cone of thread I believe is linen but would like to know 
for

sure.




Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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[lace] Thank you kind people.

2009-01-19 Thread Brian Lemin
Today I was so excited to get a postcard with superb photos of Antique 
Downton bobbins.  One showed clearly that the decorators of East Devon 
bobbins (Honiton) used the same decorator.  To me, that is exciting!


Please continue with your generous donations of pictures of antique bobbins.

I probably need particularly the USA "Ipswich" bobbins.  I have barely two 
of these.


Malmsbury bobbins would be good too. I have possibly 5 pictures of these, 
thought they are not madly exciting (at least the ones I have.)


More decorated  Downtons would be great too.

Thank you

Brian



From Brian and Jean;
in Cooranbong. Australia 


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