[lace] Poole noodle
For Aracheans in the UK, Aldi had pool noodles listed as on offer from last Sunday 10th May at £1.99. Not something that's easy to find here. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Lace events in England?
To all English Arachneans. I am going to spend one week with my family in England first week of August, in the area of Sheffield, and would like to know if there are any lace events I could attend, or any museum I can visit or any lace group I could contact... or really anything related with our great lace passion. Thanks a lot in advance. Greetings from Antje, in Guadalajara, Spain - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
She doesn't have a book, but Karen Thompson has been reproducing the Ipswich patterns from the lace samples in the Library of Congress. I've purchased about 6 or 8 different patterns from her. Karen is listed in the IOLI directory, has written several articles for Piecework magazine, and I think she's on this list. Diane Williams drswilli...@yahoo.com Galena Illinois USA My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/ From: Tamara P Duvall t...@rockbridge.net To: Lace Arachne lace@arachne.com Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:43:18 PM Subject: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote: I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know, it's the only book that has ever attempted the reproduction of the Ipswich lace. -- Tamara P Duvall http://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Ipswich lace prickings
Dear Arachnids, Elise lives near me. I'm able to take care of her questions. Jeri Ames Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/13/2009 9:14:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, drswilli...@yahoo.com writes: She doesn't have a book, but Karen Thompson has been reproducing the Ipswich patterns from the lace samples in the Library of Congress. I've purchased about 6 or 8 different patterns from her. Karen is listed in the IOLI directory, has written several articles for Piecework magazine, and I think she's on this list. Diane Williams drswilli...@yahoo.com Galena Illinois USA My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/ From: Tamara P Duvall t...@rockbridge.net To: Lace Arachne lace@arachne.com Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:43:18 PM Subject: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote: I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know, it's the only book that has ever attempted the reproduction of the Ipswich lace. -- Tamara P Duvall http://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA(Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com **Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
On May 13, 2009, at 11:22, jeria...@aol.com wrote: Dear Arachnids, Elise lives near me. I'm able to take care of her questions. The question was asked on the list and answered on the list. I don't see a problem with that. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Fwd: Thread question
I sent this a couple of days ago, but I guess it got lost. Can anyone advise me? To clarify, I understand what 2S and 3Z mean, but I don't understand: 1) Why one thread is listed as both; and 2) What the difference will be to the process and the finished product between 3S and 2S/3Z. Thanks. Sr. Claire -- Forwarded message -- Since the thread I usually use (filato per tombolo di Cantu') is getting harder to find, I'm investigating alternatives. Filato per tombolo di Cantu' 40 is listed as 3S and 32 wraps. DMC Cordonnet 100 (which I have on hand from my tatting days) is also 32 wraps, but it is listed as 2S/3Z. I'm confused and I don't understand what (if any) the difference will make to my work. Can someone explain, please? === A thread can be both 2S and 3Z if it is 6 ply, like a lot of crochet threads are. 3 pairs are twisted S individually, and then the 3 S twisted pairs are twisted Z. When the wraps of 2 different threads are the same, 2 ply will be the softest thread and 2S/3Z would be the stiffest thread. Multiple plies and strong twisting will produce a firmer thread. Floss of any kind has little or no twist. Pearl cotton loosely twists relatively large, loosely compacted plies. Crochet cordonnet is firmly twisted 2S/3Z I tend to think of it as how much air is in the thread and how much it will squish. Since my experience of Cantu with all the twists in the work is that it is a firm lace, the DMC 80 probably will suit the work nicely. Patty - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] moving lace and mooring threads
Thanks for the directions, Sally I've always preferred moving the lace up the pricking rather than using a block pillow and moving the blocks, but it had never occurred to me to turn the pillow around while I put the pins back in - that makes it much easier to do! Beth On Monday 11 May 2009, Sally Schoenberg wrote: Many thanks to Bev for finding the address for the mooring threads message. That's a technique for stablizing a pricking on your pillow without bumpy pins that is well worth another discussion. Here's how I move lace...there are a lot of words here, but it all goes much faster than it might seem at first glance: I prefer to move when the lace is mostly ground (point, binche, torchon, whatever) and a bit beyond a completed cloth stitch area. When moving Beds or a tape lace, I look for a place where the trails are converging and wide cloth stitch areas are completed, and the number of bobbins is low. 1. Lengthen all the threads (leashes) to at least 12 inches long, more if you are new to moving lace. If you are slow at lengthening/shortening leashes, then this good practice for you. I used to be slow but now lenthening/shortening goes quickly for me and I don't avoid it. 2. Put all your bobbins on sticks or knit stitch holders. Stack all your sticks/holders on top of each other on top of a large handkerchief or light weight dish towel that has been placed on your pillow. 3. Fasten the large handkerchief/towel very tightly with pins of any kind, by knotting the handkerchief corners, or by tying a ribbon. Make absolutely sure that the sticks/holders and their bobbins are completely immobilized. The cloth that you use to bundle the bobbins needs to be lightweight so that you can really pin or tie the bundle tightly. Thick cloth won't let you get a good tight bundle. You should be able to safely toss your bundle around after you've taken your lace off the pillow. 4. This is the key ingredient: fasten the handkerchief opening so that all of the threads are coming out of a teensy weensy hole just big enough to let the threads through. Sometimes I tie a ribbon or thread around the threads and a bit of the handkerchief. Sometimes I have enough handkerchief to tie a square knot with two corners around the threads. Sometimes I use a couple of lace pins. It is vitally important that pulling on the bobbin threads outside the bundle will not result in any bobbin movement inside the bundle of bobbins. 5. Take all the pins out of your lace. 6. Move the pricking to a more comfortable spot on the pillow and TAKE A BREAK. 7. Rotate the pillow 180 degrees so you are looking at the pricking and lace upside down compared to how you are usually looking at it when you are making lace. 8. I begin by putting in one pin right in the middle and exactly on the most recently worked edge. Sometimes it helps to have worked to a point before starting the move. Then I put in more pins slowly working back towards me (remember, I'm at back of the pillow) and outwards towards the headside and the footside. Feeling stressed? TAKE A BREAK! Even a couple of minutes can really help to keep your hands dry, cool, and relaxed. 9. Carefully do just a few of the headside picots. I don't think it's necessary to do very many. When I distort anything, it's usually a picot so I don't like to force them. I have found that replacing 3 picot pins is sufficient in my experience. 10. Get some of the footside pins in. 11. Fill in 1/2 to 1 inches worth of pins. I have many times filled in only 1/2 inches worth of pins but then, in that case, I immediately work 1/2 inch's worth of lace. Be very careful when tensioning as you start to make lace again. Look for any movement of thread and buckling of lace. If that happens, turn the pillow around 180 degrees and put in more pins where the movement occurred. There are usually a few pins in the lace that I worked just before moving that I have to do over again, two or three at most, and maybe a picot needs to be redone. I have seen Anne Marie in Bruges wrap all of the threads around a large, heavy pin in a kind of half hitch (I think that is the name of the knot - I can do it, I can draw it, but I don't know if I can call it by the right name) and then leave the bobbins hanging loose off the edge of the pillow while the pricking is moved, the lace repinned, etc. The principle is the same, you just need to be sure that you have a very long length of thread on all the bobbins between the heavy pin and the worked lace, and that tugging on the leashes between the worked lace and the heavy pin does not move the bobbins beyond the heavy pin. One more story...I have large Flanders handkerchief edging that I had completed halfway when someone needed to borrow my pillow. I was not doing well at the time and, to tell you the truth, I couldn't be too concerned
[lace] Wild silk from Africa
In my travels on the internet I came across the following site - a community project where hugely under-priviledged people from Namibia are working together to aid farmers and live stock and to make a living for themselves. I quote from the homepage Kalahari Tussah is a development project in Namibia, Southern Africa, focusing on utilizing the cocoons of an indigenous African silk moth, Gonometa postica. Though these cocoons have been utilized for millennia by the indigenous San communities of the Kalahari as a delicacy, or for making dance rattles, they have escaped the notice of the modern world until recently. Though it was known that the cocoons consist of a high quality wild silk, most of the cocoons was allowed to rot on the African veldt. However, with the advent of commercial farming in the Kalahari the cocoons became notorious for causing the death of livestock in some areas. Farmers started to insist that something must be done to eradicate the scourge. This initiative was born from the realization that a realistic solution had to be found to resolve the problem; that communities in the Kalahari are destitute with few opportunities for poverty alleviation; and that the silk cocoons represented a valued luxury natural fibre resource. The site is http://www.kalaharitussah.com/index.php Interesting read. Micki Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah
I noticed one of the items for sale was fabric made with this silk and cotton. In light of our recent discussion on fibers, this fabric could have a problem when washed. The spun silk had no size notation. I think more details are needed to entice buyers. I also noticed that no prices are listed on the webpage. I even clicked 'order' and only got a form page, which I did not fill out. Maybe they give the price after they get all your information. I wondered about the term Tussah, which I have seen before but didn't know what it meant. I found a webpage with this comment. Wild silk is a coarser fiber than cultivated silk. Traditionally silk carpets are made of this. Because it grows free, without cultivation, and the silkworms diet is any leaf available, the natural color varies in shade from off-white to almost yellow. Does anyone have experience with Tussah silk? Alice in Oregon - Original Message From: micki cameron mouse...@coilty.freeserve.co.uk Kalahari Tussah is a development project in Namibia, Southern Africa, focusing on utilizing the cocoons of an indigenous African silk moth, Gonometa postica. This initiative was born from the realization that a realistic solution had to be found to resolve the problem; that communities in the Kalahari are destitute with few opportunities for poverty alleviation; and that the silk cocoons represented a valued luxury natural fibre resource. The site is http://www.kalaharitussah.com/index.php - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Fwd: Thread question
Hi: S and Z refer to the direction of the twist in the finished thread. You can tell the direction by the way the letters S and Z are written - it refers to the direction of the central part of the letter. If you're spinning raw fibre and your wheel is turning clockwise, the twists are going onto each ply with a Z twist. Then, when you put 2 or more ply of Z-twisted thread together to ply them, you spin the wheel the opposite way, in this case counter-clockwise, and the two strands are plied together with an S twist. The resulting thread is referred to as S-twist. If you have S-twisted thread on your bobbins, you will undo the plying by rolling the bobbin to the left, and the plies will separate. If you roll the bobbin to the right, you will increase the twist on the plying, and your thread will develop a kinky look. If you are using Z-twisted fibres, it works the opposite way. For embroidery, I believe the lore is that you should use S-twisted fibres for handwork, as most people are right-handed and the way they handle a needle prevents the S-twist from untwisting, whereas if you embroider with Z-twisted fibres your plies will separate. For lace, I personally think it doesn't make that much difference because I tend to roll my continental bobbins to the outside of the lace, so the thread separates in one direction and becomes kinky in the other. Either way, I have to adjust the twist on my threads from time to time. Threads intended for machine use are usually Z-twisted; I believe this is due to the way sewing machines wrap the needle thread around the bobbin thread. Hope this helps. Adele On Wednesday, May 13, 2009, at 12:13 PM, Patricia Dowden wrote: To clarify, I understand what 2S and 3Z mean, but I don't understand: 1) Why one thread is listed as both; and 2) What the difference will be to the process and the finished product between 3S and 2S/3Z. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Ipswich bobbin winder
It went for $2,900. This piece is just wrong. Handle not on the right side. Cup looks replaced. 18th century bobbin winders are normally much bettered finished, and also usually have spoked wheels. But I'm sure someone will be very happy with it. Laurie - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah
Hi Alice, My understanding as a spinner is that tussah silk is from worms which eat a diet of any available leaf resulting in off-white/beige/yellowish silk and that bombyx or mulberry silk is from worms which eat a diet of mulberry leaves which results in white silk. Vicki in Maryland -Original Message- From: Alice Howell lacel...@verizon.net To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Wed, 13 May 2009 8:24 pm Subject: Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah Does anyone have experience with Tussah silk? Alice in Oregon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah
I use spun Tussah silk thread a LOT for bobbin lace, that I buy from Treenway Silks. If you don't mind reading through, and enjoying some fiber-related eye candy along the way, go here for information on silk: http://www.treenwaysilks.com/insideout.html On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 5:24 PM, Alice Howell lacel...@verizon.net wrote: Does anyone have experience with Tussah silk? -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Wild silk - Tussah
On May 13, 2009, at 20:24, Alice Howell wrote: Does anyone have experience with Tussah silk? Only as a fabric and that close to 40yrs ago. It's stiffer and, usually, coarser than silk from cultivated (ie fed a regular diet of mulberry leaves) worms. Nice for furnishings and suits, not so nice for shirts and underwear. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah
Thanks very much for an informative and useful link, Bev. Timely for me too, as I am taking a silk blending for spinning workshop next week! Vicki in Maryland -Original Message- From: bev walker walker.b...@gmail.com To: Alice Howell lacel...@verizon.net Cc: lace@arachne.com Sent: Wed, 13 May 2009 11:34 pm Subject: Re: [lace] Wild silk - Tussah .. go here for information on silk: http://www.treenwaysilks.com/insideout.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace-chat] Cantu? lace on eBay - lovely
There's a lovely eye-candy cloth on eBay. Number 290315744166. They have changed the page layout again... and I'm not happy. The pictures are smaller so the lace doesn't show as well. It's only the picture at the top of the page, and click on very tiny pictures underneath it but no enlargements, at least as far as I've found. Also, the place of origin of the auction is missing. And everything is in a different place, so look carefully to click on any feature. Anyway this cloth would be wonderful to own, if I were rich. It doesn't really match my understanding of Cantu, but it's similar, handmade, and has interesting little figures in it. Alice in Oregon To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com.
Re: [lace-chat] Cantu? lace on eBay - lovely (290315744166)
I was able to see larger pictures - and the location is Star, Idaho. I agree that it doesn't look like Cantu to me, either. At $500 US it hasn't reached its reserve yet. Malvary in Ottawa, Canada To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com.
[lace-chat] Re: Cantu? lace on eBay - lovely
On May 13, 2009, at 2:43, Alice Howell wrote: There's a lovely eye-candy cloth on eBay. Number 290315744166. Very nice indeed. Wonder what the reserve price is. The pictures are smaller so the lace doesn't show as well. It's only the picture at the top of the page, and click on very tiny pictures underneath it but no enlargements, at least as far as I've found. When I clicked on the picture itself, it took me to what I think the old page used to look like (I can't swear to it, since I only visit E-bay when you recommend a piece of eye candy to view g). With view the larger picture, seller's details, etc. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com.
[lace-chat] update Cantu lace
I found out that eBay must have been partially down when I was browsing. Now there's better pictures and information on all the items I was looking at last night. And the pages look more normal. The Cantu lace is NOT Cantu. It has bobbin trails/outlines and decorative figures, but the fillings and connections are made with needlelace. Don't know what to call it now, but it's still a lovely cloth. 290315744166 is the eBay number. Alice in Oregon To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com.
