Re: [lace] Multi-part prickings tricky; skeins also tricky
Brenda Paternoster wrote: Julie, itâs not clear what is meant by âskeinâ I know from the knitting/crochet forum Ravelery that there is a lot of confusion about that word. To me, in UK, a skein means a small hank, but a lot of Americans seem to use the work skein to mean a centre-pull machine wound ball. Back in the 1950s, nearly all knitting yarn came in elongate cylinders, about 12" (30 cm) long and 3" (7-8 cm) wide. Finer yarns made smaller cylinders but they were proportioned about the same. Those were called 'skeins'. Many cheaper yarns still come in that form. You had to fish around inside to find the end of the yarn that was supposed to be used, and leave the label around the skein until it collapsed from loss of 'innards'. As we started getting more varieties of yarns, we got more varieties of shapes of skeins. We have balls (some but not all allowing center-pull), hanks (the English skein, I guess), cones (those used to be for weavers), 'cakes' (short cylinders, diameter greater than length) and what-not. My experience is that 'skein' refers to the fact that there is a specific quantity of yarn gathered together in an orderly shape, and the other terms refer to the shape of the skein. Even hand-spun and other non-commercial or boutique yarns can be in 'skeins' usually in the shape of hanks or cakes. This would be because ball-winders make cakes and swifts make hanks, and those are the most commonly-available machines for winding skeins. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com Parvum leve mentes capiunt (Little things amuse little minds) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Updates to Lace Guild website
Dear Spiders, I have just done some updating on the Lace Guild website - details of next year’s summer school in North Wales, the new exhibition at The Hollies and a correction for the lovely Honiton pattern by Pat Perryman in the October ‘Lace’. The pricking is on p.39 and should be reduced to 75% of the printed size for working with Honiton techniques. There’s also some extra information about Doreen Creed’s Honiton flowers on p.38. See https://www.laceguild.org/guild/stop.html Jean in grey,damp Glasgow - Jean and David Leader Lace Guild website: http://www.laceguild.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Aurifil Thread
Itâs listed in Threads for Lace as Aurifil Mako. 28 wt is 26 w/cm Brenda > On 6 Nov 2015, at 00:15, Lorri Ferguson wrote: > > I have some Mako Aurifil thread 28/2. Does anyone know the wpc on this?I am > not finding it in my Book 5, or in the Addendum lists. > TIA Lorri Ferguson > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Multi-part prickings tricky; skeins also tricky
ââHello Julieâ â and those interested in making the scarf by Brigitte Bellon,â â I wonder why I had no problem making those prickings but for the scarf prickings I had so much trouble getting them to fit together? âBecause you must observe carefully the pattern and watch how much part of the pattern is repeated. In the case of this shawl you are making, the repeats are clearly marked with an arrow on the side, so you should not have problems at all. One arrow is on the left âand the final one on the right. But... as you can observe, one pattern does not fit with the other if you do not turn it. This is the only trick, if we can call it so. > â...â > I will try again to use only three parts instead of four. It did seem to > me that three SHOULD have worked and now you've said that you do it with > three! > > âYes, one part is the beginning and the end. And two parts are the central repeat (same repeat, same pattern). You have to change them in the bolster pillow. Once you are halfway the second pricking, the first one will be free of pins, and you must add it to the end of the one you are working on, and so on So I think I put in the top fringe as I start the scarf, although I don't > put it in all at the same time. The instructions say that first I work the > top left triangular region of the scarf and then I turn it and work down. > So it will be a while before every one of the top footside pins are reached > and worked. Is that what you mean by saying that I don't make the fringe > all at once? > â âLook carefully at the instructions on how to make the fringe in the book â and how to work the scarf in general. At the beginning, you âwill have to work a little piece of fringe â (the first triangleâ , where the numbers of pairs are printed â)â . âThen you must turn the pillow and work the rest of the top footside. Here you can choose to work the remaining fringe, by working the worker out of the edge pin... but I chose to work a normal footedge and add the fringe at the end with a crochet hook. Another observation: take care with the sides of the scarf: you are working the scarf in horizontal stripes (except the little triangle that serves to change direction). When you start working horizontally, you have to leave 3 pairs waiting in the border for the footside, which are not worked in the horizontal lines. Hope you manage well. I am sure once you get working, you will see that it is not complicated and a real pleasure to work. Best wishes, Antje in Spain. www.vueltaycruz.es - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Skein swift
This is the system I use too! My grandmother used to do this with wool skeins. Regards from Antje in Spain: today the sun is here again, after a week of rain. www.vueltaycruz.es - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
