RE: [lace] Re: Joining ends of a crown, Inga-Lisa Olsson's Knypplerskan Vol. 3

[J-D Hammett]

Hi fellow Arachnids,

For lace crowns and tiaras one can buy relatively cheap rings in various sizes
made for lampshades in craft and hobby-shops. They are frequently painted but
I would always cover it with narrow bias ribbon, 1. To make it easier to sew
anything -in this case a crown- onto it, 2. To make it more comfortable to
wear. The rings can be shaped a little as well to fit the head better than a
round ring would.

Happy lacemaking,

Joepie in autumnal Sussex, UK.

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[lace] Re: Joining ends of a crown, Inga-Lisa Olsson's Knypplerskan Vol. 3

[Sally Jenkins]

Dear Jeri,

Thank you for your detailed response. I too have the English translation
inserts, and also have a Swedish-speaking friend on retainer ;-)

The pricking, which I purchased from Sweden, no longer comes with the metal
ring; it's something I will come up with myself. Thank you for the great
idea about using narrow ribbon to cover the ring with when the time comes -
I would not have thought of that!

Have a golden day,
Sally

On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:03 AM, Jeri Ames  wrote:

>  There are very narrow ribbons used today for ribbon embroidery that might
> be suitable for covering the metal ring without being bulky.
>
> Jeri Ames in Maine USA
> Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
>

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[lace] Joining ends of a crown, Inga-Lisa Olsson's Knypplerskan Vol. 3

[Jeri Ames]

Dear Sally,
 
Thanks for providing the Swedish book source of your project.  I found a
typed list (perhaps prepared as early as the 1950's) inserted in this book
with additional advice for the lace maker - in English - from the "Forlag: A/B
E.HOLMQVISTS EFTR. Arlov Sweden".  Please bear in mind this was long before a
lot of conservation, restoration and cleaning advice was modified from old
methods to new.  Also, today's threads may have different properties.  Even
so, I think others might like to print this to insert in their copies of the
book series, so am sending for all to use: 
 
Advice:
 
1. Put pillow on a low table.  Elbow-high is sufficient.
2. Place the pins straight down in the pattern, otherwise the pattern can be
damaged.
3. When lace making, never use anything but linen thread.
4. Stretch the threads during the work so the lace will be firm and smooth.
5. How to in a simple way begin and end a lace is described in lace No. 4 D.
6. The linen on which the laces are to be put must be correct size for the
laces.  It ought to be thin, loose linen for laces that are made with thin
threads, thicker and more compact linen for thicker laces.
7. Never use colored linen for handmade laces.
8. The hems ought to be thin, i.e. 4-7 mm.
9. If embroidery is wanted, this ought to be simple in design and preferably
be sewed with linen thread in the same color as the lace and linen fabric.
10. Small clothes and table centers can easily be chemically cleaned, which
you can do yourself.
11. When washed in water, the lace must be carefully washed and rinsed and
then dried lying stretched to its original size.  Then it must be pressed
with caution with cloth between the pressing iron and the lace.
12. Remember that the lace is liable to shrink more than the linen fabric.
 
Lace mentioned in 5 above, No. 4 D, is in Vol. 1.  If you need a translation,
please let me know.  As to the crown, Vol. 1 says that the yellow metal
ring is delivered with the pattern, and the price includes that additional
cost.  I have no catalog with prices and ordering information. 
 
Translations are given for each lace in Vol. 3.  Included here is only the
one for the lace crown:
 
Lace number 49 K and 50 K.
29 pairs of bobbins.  Thread number 40/3 or metal thread of corresponding
thickness.  The bridal crown is mounted on a yellow metal ring, which is
added to the pattern.  If the bridal crown is to be white, the ring must be
covered with white cotton ribbons.  The bridal crown is starched with spray
starch, meant for hard-starching.  
The bridal crown with 5 points is 9,5 cm in diameter and 6,5 cm high = 50 K.
The bridal crown with 7 points is 13,5 cm in diameter and 6,5 cm high = 49 K.
 
I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the above dimensions, but have typed as
shown in this old translation.  There are very narrow ribbons used today for
ribbon embroidery that might be suitable for covering the metal ring without
being bulky.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] RE: Joining ends of a crown

[DevonThein]

I think of invisible joins as being most necessary when something is going to
be viewed from both sides like a handkerchief. But, wouldn’t the knots be on
the inside of a crown, where the hair is?
Devon

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[lace] Re: Joining ends of a crown

[Jane Partridge]

It is a case of disposing of the ends as invisibly as possible, and so you 
don't want ends from knots showing. You also want a fairly strong join as it 
will probably be passed down. If the ends are darned in on either side of the 
join, it gives an even, strong finish. You could also use the overlapping join 
method, but depending on the diameter of the finished crown this might be 
fiddly to achieve as you need to keep the tension even. I've used rolling to 
lose the thread ends when joining  garters, but there the join can be 
positioned on the inside of the leg, with a crown all will be visible.

Jane Partridge 


On 19 Oct 2017, at 16:16, DevonThein  wrote:

Is there some reason why you wouldn???t just finish it normally and sew it
together with a needle?
Devon

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RE: [lace] Joining ends of a crown

[DevonThein]

Is there some reason why you wouldn’t just finish it normally and sew it
together with a needle?
Devon

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[lace] Fw: Joining ends of a crown

[Jane Partridge]

I sent this directly to Sally, but it struck me that it might help others,
too.


Jane Partridge



From: Jane Partridge 
Sent: 19 October 2017 06:29
To: Sally Jenkins
Subject: Re: [lace] Joining ends of a crown


Sally, it's effectively the same as if you were joining end to end of a
wedding garter, only you haven't got the length to play with. In this case, if
you are using a block pillow, do you have half blocks as well as full ones? If
you aim to finish the lace mid-block, you can then wrap the rest of it around
the block to be able to repin the start in front of the work you have just
done. I would, in this case, tie off the pairs individually and cut the
bobbins off, leaving lengths of at least twelve inches (in case you find you
have made a mistake and need to rewind and rectify it!) before unpinning the
end back to that on the single block.  (Hope that makes sense). You can then
lift the lace and the block off the pillow to make it easier to darn the ends
in with a tapestry or ballpoint needle and when finished darning, unpin and
slide the lace off the block. Make sure you don't get any twists in the lace
before you pin it down and join it! Once joined, you should be able to slide
it onto something cylindrical to support it whilst (presumably) stiffening
it.


Jane Partridge



From: owner-l...@arachne.com  on behalf of Sally
Jenkins 
Sent: 19 October 2017 03:35
To: J Reardon; lace@arachne.com
Subject: Re: [lace] Joining ends of a crown

The joins will be mostly cloth stitch areas.

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Re: [lace] Joining ends of a crown

[Clay Blackwell]

I have found that setting up "magic threads" in the beginning allows you to 
make a very clean and nearly invisible join at the end.

Clay Blackwell
Lynchburg, VA

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 18, 2017, at 10:35 PM, Sally Jenkins  wrote:
> 
> The joins will be mostly cloth stitch areas.
> 
> The picture of the finished crown can be seen in Knypplerskan by Inga-Lisa
> Olsson, Vol. 3.
> 
> Thanks for taking an interest!
> Sally

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