[lace] Assuit

[hottleco]

Thank you Jeri!  Glad to hear that you own one of these shawls.  I will be 
looking more closely when checking out vintage textiles.  Last night's AR 
appraisal was $900 but that may be based on the particular bands of motifs.  I 
was also delighted to learn (Wikpedia) that Hedy Lamarr wore a dress made of 
the finished fabric.  Draping to the Nth degree--Zowie! Sincerely, Susan 
Hottle, Palm Beach Gardens FL USA

iPhone

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Re: [lace] Assuit Also Asyut / Assiut / Tulle bi telli

[Jeriames]

Dear Lace Lovers,
 
There is not much about lace and lacy that we have not discussed on  
Arachne.  That includes these machine-woven tulle shawls,  embroidered with 
metal 
strips. 
 
I own one.  My shawl is what I'd call grim off-white.  It  measures 80" x 
22 1/2".  To give an idea of value, a vintage textile  dealer near me 
estimated a 2011 retail value at $250.  Not  much.  A collection treasure 
because 
of its uniqueness, but I  understand many were made in the early 20th C.  
Especially popular after  King Tut's tomb was opened in 1922. 
 
We used to have a file in our archives calledAsyutand my old 
research found a spelling of  Assuit with ui reversed:  As Assiut.  You can do 
computer  searches using all these spellings.  As our readers well know, 
spelling  differences occur for many laces and textiles, depending on the 
nationality of  the person writing.  Do searches under all the spellings and 
you 
will reap  more information.
 
Here is an example site to view:  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulle_bi_telli  
Translation:  Net with metal (tells the history)
 
For photos, search   Egyptian net embroidery
 
There was a lovely article in the magazine Ornament, 1989 Winter,  pages 
66-67, published in Los Angeles.  This magazine is mostly for  people who make 
jewelry.  This article says the invention of the bobbinet  machine in Tulle 
France in the early 19th century gave impetus to the popularity  of 
hexagonal mesh fabric and it became known commonly as "tulle".  In  Egypt, 
after 
manufacture using white or black cotton or linen thread, the  fabric was given 
to local artisans and embroidered with 1/8 inch flat strips of  metal: gilt 
silver or copper wire and later chrome-plated copper or brass.   (This is 
why I'm reluctant to wet clean my shawl.  Maybe the white  shawls were dyed 
after wet cleaning stains appeared from the  metals.)This is your 
conservation lesson for today!
 
This technique has popped up in PieceWork, published in the U.S.   My 
personal correspondence to them references:
 
1.  Rivers, Victoria - The Shining Cloth has a photo on pg.  91
 
2.  Gillow, John & Sentance, Bryan - World Textiles has  a photo on pg. 
209, which Gillow says is from Lebanon.  I have met him  in England, and I 
remember closely reading this book.  There are some  errors.  In this case, I 
think he may have purchased the shawl in  Lebanon, but that it was probably 
made in Egypt.  There is just too  much confirmed research that this technique 
is Egyptian.
 
If you have found this of interest and think you may need later  - save, or 
print and put it in a file or in a related book.   I have found that our 
archives are dropping correspondence - and this  subject may arise again years 
from now.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
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In a message dated 3/28/2016 9:49:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Hello  All!  Was anyone else watching Antiques Roadshow tonight?  Near the  
end of the episode, the appraiser looked at a drop dead Egyptian shawl, 
circa  1920's, & called the textile "assuit".  When I Googled, the  description 
seemed reminiscent of Lacis or Liers lace except that the "thread"  is flat 
metal, sort of like plate used in goldwork.  Short lengths of  1/8" wide 
metal are woven onto a tulle foundation with a flat needle rather  than 
Luneville hook.  The finished "fabric" is heavy but drapes  well.  Just 
wondered 
if anyone has tried this technique or will  comment.  The AR piece was quite 
lovely with rows of stylized trees,  flowers & geometrics interspersed with 
open tulle foundation.  Susan  Hottle

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Re: [lace] Assuit

[Jill Hawkins]

Hi Judith

It seems that this video is not available outside of the US.

  All items on Antiques Roadshow are available to look at on the
  website. Here's what a search on "Assuit" turned up. Very nice
  indeed. 
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/season/20/tucson-az/appraisals/egyptian-assuit-shawl-ca-1920--201501T04

Jill, in Milton Keynes, UK

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Re: [lace] Assuit

[Judith Smith]

All items on Antiques Roadshow are available to look at on the website.

Here's what a search on "Assuit" turned up. Very nice indeed.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/season/20/tucson-az/appraisals/egyptian-assuit-shawl-ca-1920--201501T04

Thanks for sharing Susan.

Judy
on the Mississippi in warm, cloudy S. Louisiana

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 8:47 PM, Susan  wrote:

> Hello All!  Was anyone else watching Antiques Roadshow tonight?  Near the
> end of the episode, the appraiser looked at a drop dead Egyptian shawl,
> circa 1920's, & called the textile "assuit".  When I Googled, the
> description seemed reminiscent of Lacis or Liers lace except that the
> "thread" is flat metal, sort of like plate used in goldwork.  Short lengths
> of 1/8" wide metal are woven onto a tulle foundation with a flat needle
> rather than Luneville hook.  The finished "fabric" is heavy but drapes
> well.  Just wondered if anyone has tried this technique or will comment.
> The AR piece was quite lovely with rows of stylized trees, flowers &
> geometrics interspersed with open tulle foundation.  Sincerely, Susan
> Hottle, Palm Beach Gardens, FL USA
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>

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[lace] Assuit

[Susan]

Hello All!  Was anyone else watching Antiques Roadshow tonight?  Near the end 
of the episode, the appraiser looked at a drop dead Egyptian shawl, circa 
1920's, & called the textile "assuit".  When I Googled, the description seemed 
reminiscent of Lacis or Liers lace except that the "thread" is flat metal, sort 
of like plate used in goldwork.  Short lengths of 1/8" wide metal are woven 
onto a tulle foundation with a flat needle rather than Luneville hook.  The 
finished "fabric" is heavy but drapes well.  Just wondered if anyone has tried 
this technique or will comment.  The AR piece was quite lovely with rows of 
stylized trees, flowers & geometrics interspersed with open tulle foundation.  
Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Palm Beach Gardens, FL USA 




Sent from my iPad

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