[lace] Beeswax colour and acidity

2005-08-02 Thread Laceandbits
I confess there isn't any lace content in this at all, except it may help 
clarify the discussion that has been ongoing on the Lace board.

The different colours of beeswax are dependant on how long it's been in the 
hive.  The freshly built comb and the cappings (the wax the bees use to seal 
the chambers,) are very nearly white.  The longer it stays in the hive the 
darker it gets as it crystallises and gets discoloured by day-to-day bee living 
and 
with propolis, the dark amber coloured 'stuff' that bees use to seal up gaps 
in the high.  If the wax is whitened again by industrial processes it is being 
bleached.  

The wooden frames in the hive have a thin, man-made foundation of golden wax 
fitted into them, with the hexagon shapes lightly embossed.  The bees then 
build their comb onto both sides of this, with fresh, nearly white wax.  The 
queen is kept in one storey of the hive and the honey is stored by the bees 
away 
from the brood, so you can take frames from the other storeys and scrape off 
the caps and spin the honey out.  As the wax building is labour intensive, you 
then replace the empty frames ready for the bees to refill, so they can 
concentrate on collecting nectar for honey and pollen to feed the brood.  It 
would 
not be sense to remove that wax unless you were getting a very good price for 
it, as the bees can refill it several times over two or three years.

The 'wild' comb I am referring to is when on the odd occasion a swarm of bees 
take over an empty hive (attracted by the honey/propolis smells in the wood). 
 If this hive isn't full of frames, or if some of those frames have damaged 
foundation in them, the bees revert to nature and fill the spaces with wild 
comb which is a back-to-back cells on an oval or vaguely circular chunk of comb 
which hangs down from the top board of the hive or in gaps in the frames.  When 
the beekeeper realises there are bees in the hive, these stray bits of comb 
are removed and replaced by 'proper' frames.

If you want genuine, natural 'pale as it comes' beeswax you probably need to 
buy direct from a bee keeper who will take the trouble to separate their 
cappings and any bits of 'wild' comb from the bulk of the 2 or 3 year old wax 
from 
damaged or due-to-be- replaced frames.  If you ask for some, it is perfectly 
possible that they can put some through their steamer/separator for you.  
However, mostly they don't bother because the golden colour of beeswax is what 
most 
people expect.

Acid is only actively acid in water, so in wax it won't be active if that 
makes sense.  The acidity in wax is low anyway.  Therefore it seems 
unscientifically possible to conjecture that waxed thread has more protection 
from the 
acidity in the atmosphere than unwaxed.

Jacquie in England

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Re: [lace] Beeswax colour and acidity

2005-08-02 Thread RicTorr8
In a message dated 8/2/2005 4:17:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The different colours of beeswax are dependant on how long it's been in the 
hive.  The freshly built comb and the cappings (the wax the bees use to seal 
the chambers,) are very nearly white.  The longer it stays in the hive the 
darker it gets as it crystallises and gets discoloured by day-to-day bee 
living and 
with propolis, the dark amber coloured 'stuff' that bees use to seal up gaps 
in the high.  If the wax is whitened again by industrial processes it is 
being 
bleached. . . . . 
Thank you, Jacquie -- very enlightening! I don't know if the artists 
beeswax sold here is bleached, or just lacks the propolis, but it is much more 
expensive than the raw wax I used to get from a beekeeper here. I suppose the 
resiny chemicals in propolis could account for the softer, more malleable 
properties of the yellow beeswaxIt's good to learn about this, since I know 
beeswax 
has been used for a long time to strengthen threads. I haven't heard of any 
long-term disintegration problems it might cause (yet), but I'm certainly no 
expert on the subject. At any rate, I'll spring for the more expensive white 
beeswax for my sewing on light threads, assuming that it's not bleached (which, 
if it were, I would suppose could leach disintegrating chemicals into the 
threads over time, knowing how harsh bleach is)

Very interesting to learn all of this, and many thanks again! I'm glad to 
find out about this.

Ricki
Utah USA

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