Fray check does wash out, and really isn't a glue in it's truest form. I have
used it for years with clients, and often have to re-fray check for garments
for our family. It does tend to put a faint yelliowicast, though most would
consider it negligible.
For something to stay, as in glue ,and is marketed as staying clear, I would
consider Goop. Some compare it to 6000, but I cannot attest to the later.
Good is thick, and I have even used it for a pair of daughter's tap shoes when
the vamp came away from the sole, and it stuck through much dancing. There are
loads of newer glues out there. Michael's Crafts is a good source in the US,
as they have whole sections of them and just read the packaging.
A good one for most is Fabri-Tac, which yard good stores have also. You can
use it even for attaching jewels on kiddies clothes, but occasionally it will
come off. This is perhaps more appropriate for lace.
***
If I was using lace for the bodice for a garment, I would make a band width,
the heigth of the bodice band, and just do the darts and turn unders (back
seam/underarm seam where closure is) as one would normally. Depending upon
the lace and if not thick gimp, then I would try rolling some darts or ends
when applying. Some things are just inherent in the care of the lace itself,
and observers would note that you are applying lace and not wanting to
destroy it in one use.
If your lace is quite disparate in color from the underlining/fabric, then you
could always stitch darts with lace in it, in a machine baste, or even like
8-10 sts per inch, then turn the lace back from the seam allowance before
stitching bodice to main body of dress/skirt, and baste it until dress top and
bottom are conjoined, and then steam down the lace when finished, and tack lace
if desired
If no seam is used as in a true bodice, but rather a fitted base garment,
(sheath or princess seam dress). but using the lace would create the illusion
of one, which would be ideal, then you can stitch the darts through the
mid-section with large stitches or good hand stitching (perhaps back stitch by
hand) and when done with the lace wear, release the dart, remove the lace, and
re stitch the darts. If you line the dress, any stress in form-fitting/fear of
the dart sts showing/popping, would be taken on by the lining.
This would even make for two dresses, so to speak, and your lace can be used in
other ways, such as a table runner, with plain borders, etc., once the two are
separated and the darts are re stitched in normal 10-12 st. length.
The options are limitless. S
***
Edgings - Devon's IOLI Article
(A typo, below, I meant to say that you DO want undulations in your ruffle.)
... edging for a girls dress ...how much length to do to fit and also have a
bit of
ruffle as well...(hot to) create a nicely joined finish of the two
ends of the lace ...(as) I don't want a thick seam. Ann Yorkshire UK
If flat, your lace should be the same as edging, including seam allowances, and
remembering that tf a curve, the outer edge of the lace is the perimeter, not
the selvedge you are attaching, as you will have to ease some of it in.
Ruffles are typically double, and the old rule with shirring is triple, but
rarely are things gathered that much anymore unless the puff to a sleeve of a
little girls dress. Minimally I think a ruffle should be 1.5 times, since you
DO want undulations, but still to see the beauty of your lace.
As far as merging ends for a seam allowance/join, I am not the bobbin lace
expert, but with couture sewing and knitting knowledge, my inclination would be
to reweave the ends back on themselves after making a U join with it's sibling
on the other side. Hope that makes sense.
***
Lace w/o bobbin lace techniques? What comes to mind with the art teacher's
questions about making lace with pins, is that mostly she doesn't understand
that the stitches hold/anchor each other or the shapes, kind of like
relationships, philosophically. (But I won't digress) S
The two things that come to mind are couching, or using fine wire or silk
covered wire, which Habu sells (and I think now Lion Brand). Of course
stiffening before removal, but then we are back to rusty pins and all of that,
or spray/glue and removing pins quickly! LOL
HTH,
Susan Reishus
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