[lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-06 Thread Diana Smith
Hello Ruth
I think it was Mrs Winifred Millar who said something to the effect that a
piece of lace when laid over the palm of your hand should remain relatively
horizontal and not *droop* over the edge.
Diana

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Re: [lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-06 Thread Ruth Budge
Hi Diana - I'm glad to hear it!!  'Cos that's why I made a conscious decision
to only use threads made for lacemaking!!If I'm going to put all that
effort into making a piece of lace, I like it to present itself to the world as
if it's saying wow! look at me rather than oh dear, I'm exhausted from all
that sitting on the pillow - all I want to do is go to sleep

I'm not into contemporary or coloured lace - strictly a traditional girl, me
-so it was an easy decision to make.

And may I assure all of you who use DMC and other threads, I'm not criticising
your choice - just explaining what I do and why.

Regards, Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia)

Diana Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello Ruth
I think it was Mrs Winifred Millar who said something to the effect that a
piece of lace when laid over the palm of your hand should remain relatively
horizontal and not *droop* over the edge.
Diana

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Re: [lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-05 Thread Liz Beecher
I was always taught that it was DMC 30 for Torchon and DMC 50 for Bucks

Does this help


Liz




Tamara P. Duvall wrote:

  Unlike Tonder lace which seems to use, mostly, 140/2 (120/2 if you like
  your lace less gauzy) both for the simple and the complex patterns, I
  don't think there *is* a standard size for Floral Bucks any more than
  there is for the Geometric version. You could, probably, make Floral in
  80/2 if you wanted to; just copy your pattern so that the pin dots are
  spaced correctly... :)

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Re: [lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-05 Thread Ruth Budge
Whilst, in my opinion, thread the size of DMC 50 is suitable for a lot of Bucks
patterns, an equal number require thread even finer.  It all depends on the
size of the grid the pattern is drawn on - and a common way of measuring that
is by counting the number of footside pinholes per inch (or cm).I regularly
use either Brok 100/2 or 120/2 for Bucks - both of which are finer than DMC 50.

Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia)

Liz Beecher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was always taught that it was DMC 30
for Torchon and DMC 50 for Bucks

Does this help


Liz





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[lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-05 Thread Diana Smith
I've found that DMC threads tend to get a bit fluffy after a while - my
favourite fine Floral Bucks Point thread is Kantklosgaren Egyptian Cotton
70/2, which when worked has a nice sheen.
I almost always use ecru but that is a personal preference.
Diana

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Re: [lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-05 Thread Ruth Budge
Diana,I agree with you about DMC threads - I either use Brok or Egyptian
Cotton, both being threads made specifically for lace making.  They hold their
shape well when finished too.  I was really turned off using DMC after watching
lace exhibited in the local show - all the pieces made with DMC or similar
wilted whilst on display, whilst those pieces made with Brok, Egyptian cotton
or linen looked as good at the end of the show as they did at the beginning.

Another thread I like is Presencia Finca - the 80 is about the same size as
Egyptian Cotton 90 or Brok 100/2, and the 100 equals Egyptian 100/2 or Brok
120/2
Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia)
 --- Diana Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I've found that DMC threads
tend to get a bit fluffy after a while - my
 favourite fine Floral Bucks Point thread is Kantklosgaren Egyptian Cotton
 70/2, which when worked has a nice sheen.
 I almost always use ecru but that is a personal preference.
 Diana


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[lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-04 Thread Tamara P. Duvall
On Jan 3, 2004, at 17:56, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Julie in Baltimore) wrote:

(it's exciting to use lots of bobbins; the most I've ever used was 50 
pairs)
g The most I've ever worked with -- I think -- was 48 basic (I 
don't count gimps and the in-and-out ones used for corners only). An, 
while working with them was no problem, I didn't find it all that 
exciting, either; all that pricking, all that winding, and then so many 
to get rid of decently... Definitely not my cup o'T, which is why the 
Polychrome version of the windrose ornament got pushed onto the back 
burner; 40 basic pairs (+6 prs gimps, +6 prs coloured weavers), all for 
a piece 4 long and 3 wide seemes a bit excessive...  Plus 
undetermined number of  passive prs added just for motifs? I think I'll 
dispense with those :)

| I'd like to aim for making Bucks at the standard size but it is not 
clear to me what the standard size is.  My books  don't go into that.  
I'm pretty sure the size at which I now work, using  Egyptian Cotton 
80/2, is too big.
Should I be aiming for cotton 100/2?  120/2?   I don't know what my 
goal
should be.
Unlike Tonder lace which seems to use, mostly, 140/2 (120/2 if you like 
your lace less gauzy) both for the simple and the complex patterns, I 
don't think there *is* a standard size for Floral Bucks any more than 
there is for the Geometric version. You could, probably, make Floral in 
80/2 if you wanted to; just copy your pattern so that the pin dots are 
spaced correctly... :)

Holly van Sciver's thread chart gives you a good idea what thread might 
go with which spacing. Or, you might look at the 100 Traditional 
Bobbin Lace Patterns by Geraldine Stott and Bridget Cook. Although 
most of the patterns in the book are scaled for DMC Retors d'Alsace # 
60 (which, according to Brenda Paternoster's Threads for Lace, is 
*slightly* thicker than Egyptian Cotton 80/2; same size as 70/2), the 
one pictured on the cover -- Seascape -- is made in 120/2. It's not 
Floral Bucks -- the number of pairs remains constant (except for 
corners), even in the cloth stitched parts. But it does give you an 
idea of the difference in pin spacing needed for either thread.

A lot of people think of that pattern as the cream of the book, 
because of the finer thread. Me, if I ever wanted to try a Bucks 
pattern with 55 (basic) pairs, I'd probably go for the Rosa Perfecta in 
the same book, and just copy it slightly finer -- there's a much nicer 
balance of thick and thin in that one; the Seascape has too much of 
the plain, boring, net :)

-
Tamara P Duvall
Lexington, Virginia,  USA
Formerly of Warsaw, Poland
http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd/
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[lace] Re: wide floral Bucks Point

2004-01-03 Thread JSyzygy
 And my lace content:  I'm struggling to finish pricking a wide floral Bucks
 handkerchief edging - I'm coming down the fourth side now.   It'll be a 
relief
 to start working it, after all this pricking!

 Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia)

I wish I could make floral Bucks.  I've been ages working very slowly 
through my 
how-to-make-Bucks book.  What does your edging look like?  How wide is it?  
How
many bobbins does it use (it's exciting to use lots of bobbins; the most I've 
ever used was
50 pairs)?
Did you get it from a book?  
What size thread and how many holes per inch?  I'd like to aim for making 
Bucks at the
standard size but it is not clear to me what the standard size is.  My books 
don't go into that.  I'm pretty sure the size at which I now work, using 
Egyptian Cotton 80/2, is too big.
Should I be aiming for cotton 100/2?  120/2?   I don't know what my goal 
should be.

Julie  Baltimore MD
 

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