[lace] 121 Honiton lace Fillings
Hi Arachnids Please can anyone put me in touch with Christine Hawken,s heirs? I have started writing a book on Honiton lace and wish to get permission to use one of the prickings from 121 Honiton lace Fillings. Blow the dust, let,s make lace Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] needle lace fillings
Take a quick gander at www.needlenthread.com today. Mary Corbet posted a whitework piece with some very lovely needle lace. Susan Hottle - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] fillings
Hi Susan I wouldn't never carry threads from one sewn filling pin hole to another in Honiton, I think it would be pretty impossible not to distort either the lace or the edge which you are trying to preserve as clean and straight as possible for raised sewing plus you are likely to see the loop of thread and the second sewing will be difficult/insecure. The only time I would carry would be across a narrow trail if I was working both at once or across a rib (when I probably wouldn't sew every pin hole anyway). The finished effect should have as few a distortions from where you would expect the filling to go if you were working more of it. It might feel like it takes more time to sew out, bow off, wind back and sew in again but the end result will be much better. Getting the pairs sewn in and out at the right positions really makes a difference to the finished look. In terms of where to start a filling it really depends on how difficult the filling is and whether you have worked it before (and if know how to work it inside out). I would normally start at whichever place looks easiest to work, so full repeats are normally easier than half repeats (because the half repeats need to look as it they would be full repeats). If you have a pre marked filling then it will generally have been placed carefully so that the filling is 'balanced', but this really links in to your next question. The best way to explain how to place a filling in a space is actually to look at it a different way. Look at a filling (it doesn't matter which one), cut a small shape in a blank piece of paper - not too large and not too small, perhaps the size of a small coin - now move the hole slowly over the filling. As you move the paper hole look at which layouts look balanced at the edges but will also give you the best sewing places - yes there will always have to be compromises but it is what is best overall. Once you've got the idea it will help you place the plastic film better, I always move it around the space until I think I've got the best compromise position (this could take some time as you way up the pros and cons) and I always study what a new filling is doing before I look at placing it. Hope this helps Susan --- Susan Roberts http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/susanroberts -Original Message- From: hottl...@neo.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 6:43 PM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] fillings Hello All! My Honiton adventures continue & I'm working fillings. In this case, the fillings are marked so I don't need to decide for myself how to fill the void. May I ask about "carrying threads"? I'm not sure this is even the correct terminology! To cut or not to cut--that is the question! Is it necessary to sew out/bow off on the sides when the pairs will need to be sewn in again two pins away? OR, can the threads simply lie against the back of the lace after sewing them & then resewing them into the new position? There's simply not a lot of space here & about a bazillion pin holes! Another issue is where to start the filling? When working the pin & stitch, it seemed easier to start at the narrow end & work to the wider end. On the four pin, it seemed easier to start at the wide end. Overall, how does one decide? Lastly, in one of the Honiton classes that I attended, the teacher told me to select my own filling, prick on plastic & make the lace. Easier said! than done! How does one go about selecting a filling to best fit the space? Are some shapes more attractive with certain fillings? Suggestions & advice are welcome. Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] fillings
Hello All! My Honiton adventures continue & I'm working fillings. In this case, the fillings are marked so I don't need to decide for myself how to fill the void. May I ask about "carrying threads"? I'm not sure this is even the correct terminology! To cut or not to cut--that is the question! Is it necessary to sew out/bow off on the sides when the pairs will need to be sewn in again two pins away? OR, can the threads simply lie against the back of the lace after sewing them & then resewing them into the new position? There's simply not a lot of space here & about a bazillion pin holes! Another issue is where to start the filling? When working the pin & stitch, it seemed easier to start at the narrow end & work to the wider end. On the four pin, it seemed easier to start at the wide end. Overall, how does one decide? Lastly, in one of the Honiton classes that I attended, the teacher told me to select my own filling, prick on plastic & make the lace. Easier said! than done! How does one go about selecting a filling to best fit the space? Are some shapes more attractive with certain fillings? Suggestions & advice are welcome. Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] fillings
I always make a pricking on a clear plastic but it must be quite firm, then when the lace outline is made you simply lay the plastic on the lace and adjust the filling pricking to fit the space that you want to fill, you can them prick through the plastic into the card underneath and this way you can use the plastic time and time again. I now have a nice little collection of Honiton fillings on plastic. Hope this is clear enough to understand Sue M Harvey Norfolk UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: Re: [lace] fillings
I'd make a new pattern - if you cover a Honiton pattern with blue plastic, you'll have trouble with the needlepin getting caught when you make sewingsHoniton patterns are pricked on glazed card to make it easier for the needlepin to slide along. Ruth (Sydney, Australia) > Sue Babbs wrote: > > I am forwarding this to lace, as this is definitely a lace topic. Not > everyone is on chat, so you may catch some experienced Honiton makers > who > are not on both lists. > > It would seem quite reasonable to me to do as you suggest. I would then > either make a photocopy of the new pricking or cover it with blue > plastic so > that you don't have any "raw" edges of the pattern to catch with the > thread. > > Sue > - Original Message - > From: "MARGRET STEAD" > To: > Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 7:55 AM > Subject: [lace-chat] fillings > > > > Hi All > > > > I was just reading through the Lace guld Honiton book and reading how > the > > filling patterns are done, I know at the moment I am jumping the gun > as I > > have > > a while yet before I get to a pattern with fillings but my question > is. Is > > it > > possible to cut out the middle of the pricking where the filling will > go > > before you put it on the backing card and then place the filling > pattern > > under > > it, so then you have the complete pattern on the pillow at the > begining. > > Little things that go through my mind. So glad you are out there to > help. > > Thanks. > > > > Wendy St Dogmaels > > > > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the > line: > > unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to > > arachnemodera...@yahoo.com. > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Ruth Budge thelacema...@optusnet.com.au - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fillings
Hello Wendy If you know which filling you want to do before you start, then it can be pricked in place right at the start as you do your pricking. It is usually recommended that you use a finer needle to do this so it is clear which holes are design and which are filling. Note that you should be using a fine needle anyway (same as your pins) for the main pricking so the emphasis is on a 'finer still' needle for the filling! At the back of Elsie Luxton's second book, there is a double page spread of prickings for all the common fillings. Have this photocopied onto acetate, and you have a guide you can use over and over. Make sure that you prick it VERY carefully before you use it, then you can feel where the holes are to get an accurate filling. The most important thing is to get the filling in the right place in its 'frame' of cloth/half stitch braid. It must have the correct orientation and also be placed so that you have as many complete units of filling as possible. For the spaces where only part of a unit will fit, you must work that unit as if the rest was there hidden behind the edge of the lace; Pat Perryman's book is useful hear as the filling diagrams at the back are large and clear. Put a piece of paper across the diagram at the same angle as the edge, revealing only those holes you were able to prick, and the edge of the paper represents the footedge of worked lace and you should be able to see whre to sew and where to 'bounce' a pair back into the pattern. If you add a pricking afterwards, take all the pins out around the edge so you can get your tracing/acetate as flat to the card as possible as you adjust it for the best position. I think you would have trouble getting the card cut close enough to the holes; sometimes a filling hole needs to be only a hair's breadth from the design holes. Also the ridge created by the edge of the card would make your sewings very difficult to do, as you connect the filling to the braids. Personally I think the best bet (and easiest to be accurate) is the first, and is the one I would usually opt for. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fillings
Hi Wendy I haven't done much honiton, but for what I have done I've pricked the fillings before starting - I used the more traditional method of making a copy of the pricking on clear acetate (I used overhead projector slide film, I believe some people use used, washed, X-Ray film), place this over the main pricking and prick through it into the filling areas. Regards Beth taking a break from clearing moss off the patio in a sunny Cheshire, NW England Sue Babbs wrote: > It would seem quite reasonable to me to do as you suggest. I would then > either make a photocopy of the new pricking or cover it with blue plastic > so that you don't have any "raw" edges of the pattern to catch with the > thread. > > Sue > - Original Message - > > Hi All > > > > I was just reading through the Lace guld Honiton book and reading how the > > filling patterns are done, I know at the moment I am jumping the gun as I > > have > > a while yet before I get to a pattern with fillings but my question is. > > Is it > > possible to cut out the middle of the pricking where the filling will go > > before you put it on the backing card and then place the filling pattern > > under > > it, so then you have the complete pattern on the pillow at the begining. > > Little things that go through my mind. So glad you are out there to help. > > Thanks. > > > > Wendy St Dogmaels > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fillings
That would work if the filling holes are going to line up with whatever is going around it, might be better to make a photocopy of the pricking and draw in the filling lines 'by eye', using your filling diagram as a guide. On Sun, Mar 29, 2009 at 6:57 AM, Sue Babbs wrote: > It would seem quite reasonable to me to do as you suggest. I would then > either make a photocopy of the new pricking or cover it with blue plastic so > that you don't have any "raw" edges of the pattern to catch with the > thread. > > - Original Message - From: "MARGRET STEAD" < > wendyl...@btinternet.com> > To: > > a while yet before I get to a pattern with fillings but my question is. Is >> it >> possible to cut out the middle of the pricking where the filling will go >> before you put it on the backing card and then place the filling pattern >> under >> it, so then you have the complete pattern on the pillow at the begining. >> > > -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fillings
I am forwarding this to lace, as this is definitely a lace topic. Not everyone is on chat, so you may catch some experienced Honiton makers who are not on both lists. It would seem quite reasonable to me to do as you suggest. I would then either make a photocopy of the new pricking or cover it with blue plastic so that you don't have any "raw" edges of the pattern to catch with the thread. Sue - Original Message - From: "MARGRET STEAD" To: Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 7:55 AM Subject: [lace-chat] fillings Hi All I was just reading through the Lace guld Honiton book and reading how the filling patterns are done, I know at the moment I am jumping the gun as I have a while yet before I get to a pattern with fillings but my question is. Is it possible to cut out the middle of the pricking where the filling will go before you put it on the backing card and then place the filling pattern under it, so then you have the complete pattern on the pillow at the begining. Little things that go through my mind. So glad you are out there to help. Thanks. Wendy St Dogmaels To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] "Fillings from Hunnia Lace" Book Review - long
"Fillings from Hunnia Lace" Anna Ruhle - Gizella Fay, Aladarne ISBN: 2-35032-022-7, 2006, 95 pages, Hardcover Published by L'Inedite (France) www.editionslinedite.com Please note that the cover lace "Dance of the Brownies" is privately owned, and not represented by a pattern in the book! The author, Anna Ruhle, was born in Hungary. She relocated to Germany in 1948, eventually settling in Dresden. In 1998 and 2000, she joined with Ildiko Onodi-Szabo, Sandorne (granddaughter of Gizella Fay, Aladame) to produce two lace booklets "Hunnia I" and "Hunnia II". These are in the Hungarian language. Now, with the support of several European lace experts, a comprehensive new hardback book with all-new Hunnia lace material has been published in France, in German/English/French with a Hungarian translation available separately. In the early years of lacemaking in Hungary, patterns came from Germany. The creator of Hunnia lace was Gizella Fay, Aladarne (1871-1944). She turned her drawings of flowers into bobbin lace, and following the 1906 tulip movement in Hungary she made a top (blouse) for herself of bobbin lace with tulip motifs. This lace top went to London for an exhibition in 1909. She then turned many folk art motifs into bobbin lace. When it became a commercial venture, the name Hunnia lace was given to it. In 1949 three kinds of Hungarian lace, Pannonia (bobbin), Hunnia (bobbin), and Halas (needle) were united under the auspices of the association for household industries (people making lace for sale). Though there was much turmoil in Hungary in the 20th C., this type of lace survived. For this book it has been reconstructed from old lace pieces or photographs. The book is basically divided into two sections. 1. Flowers and a peacock design. These are individual motifs, which can be worked together to create a larger lace, in a technique that somewhat resembles Milanese lace. On the first page of each design there is a photograph and a materials list (thread and # bobbins), on the facing page are step-by-step written instructions with small illustrations below to illustrate important features. The following two pages have pricking (s), often facing in two directions, and an enlarged working diagram and enlarged drawings of details. 2. 100 fillings, plus two symbols pages and prickings, that you can copy and use for trying your own ideas and making motifs that differ from those shown in section 1. The delightful designs of Hunnia lace evoke the Hungarian culture, and provide a new creative challenge for lacemakers.. Suppliers: http://www.editionslinedite.com http://www.barbara.fay.de Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - where it is believed the history of women, as reflected in their lace and embroidery creations, should be preserved! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace fillings
Hi All, I am not sure if Toni was asking about bobbin or needle fillings, but one of the best needle fillings collection is the Dillmont Encyclopaedia collection in the oft reprinted DMC book. Jean in Cleveland U.K. [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Saturday, June 28, 2003, at 12:17 PM, Margot Walker wrote: I haven't seen any replies to Toni's request for books on fillings, so here are the 3 books that I use: - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace fillings
Thanks, Margot ! I'll be 'at the library' as soon as I'm done with posting today ! and thanks, too, for the 'tip' about the paperback . . . Toni in Seattle - Original Message - From: Margot Walker Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 4:17 AM Subject: [lace] Lace fillings I haven't seen any replies to Toni's request for books on fillings, so here are the 3 books that I use: Cook and Stott. The book of bobbin lace stitches. London: Batsford, 2nd ed. 1982. ISBN 0-7134-3883-5. (This is the hardback version, which has been reprinted many times. The paperback is not as complete.) Hawken, Christine. 121 Honiton lace fillings. York: Elviston Press, c1997. ISBN 0-9522709-4-3 Dorsett, Joyce. Honiton fillings: A collection from eighteenth century Honiton lace. Stourbridge: The Lace Guild, c1995. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lace fillings
I haven't seen any replies to Toni's request for books on fillings, so here are the 3 books that I use: Cook and Stott. The book of bobbin lace stitches. London: Batsford, 2nd ed. 1982. ISBN 0-7134-3883-5. (This is the hardback version, which has been reprinted many times. The paperback is not as complete.) Hawken, Christine. 121 Honiton lace fillings. York: Elviston Press, c1997. ISBN 0-9522709-4-3 Dorsett, Joyce. Honiton fillings: A collection from eighteenth century Honiton lace. Stourbridge: The Lace Guild, c1995. Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED]
