I response to the inquiries I received:

The wire I use is fine silver, dead soft, for the weaving part, sterling silver, 1/2 hard, for the edges. The sterling makes it springy so it keeps it's shape better, the fine is a little softer and less touchy about being reworked, although it's very likely to break if manipulated more than twice. It gets a tinny sound so there is a warning before it breaks! I use bobbins for the fine wire, it's 28 gauge, none for the sterling, which is 16 and 18 gauge. I remember the CRLG day, but am not sure which pendant Vicki is referring to. Most of my wire stuff is still packed (we moved to Virginia from Pennsylvania last summer). Even most of my lace books are packed. The brooch is made from round wire that I flattened a little, then wound three times around a dowel, weaving it a little to keep it together, then soldered the ends together. The lace is cotton and silk, with crystals and silver beads hanging from it. I found the pattern in one of my books, I think. It was the first time I tried mixing the metal and threads. I have a file with patterns for various bracelets, someday I'll publish them.

As I said, most of my books are packed. I've been using Cook and Stott's "Introduction to Bobbin Lace Stitches", Cook's "Practical Skills in Bobbin Lace" and the Luton Museum "Lace Dealer's Pattern Book" for inspiration. The book that Patti mentioned, "The Art and Craft of Old Lace" by von Henneberg is not one I'm familiar with. I've never had a Binche class and only one Flanders. I like the very large grounds in clay much better than the very tiny ones in thread! I like the rose grounds and spider variations and plan sets of those.

I'm only working in white for now, although I will probably try some colored clays later- gimps, you know. I've changed to a clay called B mix, which is classified as a stoneware for it's durability but looks and feels a lot like porcelain. Hopefully, this will make the pieces less fragile. The ends of the strands, threads, aren't sharp, but they haven't made it to the highest temperature firing yet. I like the look of thread that has been broken or cut off but since parts that stick out are more susceptible to breaking, something else will have to be done. I haven't tried anything with silver and gold clays. I did with polymer clay but wasn't pleased enough to do anymore beyond that first experiment, although I did hear of a woman who knits one kind of it. And I have an article from 1982 about a man who coated acrylic caulking in dry clay (it hadn't been mixed with water) and knitted that. The fumes caught fire in his first firing, but things improved after that. But I want to stay a little more environmentally friendly. I googled him and came up dry, would like to know what other avenues in this direction if any, he pursued.

I hope this answered all the questions, I'm always open to more. I'll update you all from time to time.

Cherry Knobloch
Chesapeake, Va
USA

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