Re: [lace] twists
I've been following this thread with great interest! And, honestly, have no absolute opinion one way or the other... But I did find, on a recent Binche piece, that there was some of this same "tread misbehavior" going on. At such a fine scale, my attempts to compensate we're not glaringly evident, but my conclusion was that if a thread was moving in the same direction as te twist on the passives, then it tended to "sink" into the passive twist. If it was moving in the opposite direction, then it was more inclined to "sit on" the passives. When I added a twist to the former, the workers maintained more "integrity", and did not sink, therefore helping the problem. It's still an ongoing challenge, however! Clay Sent from my iPad On Jan 6, 2013, at 8:09 PM, wrote: > Sue Babbs wrote: > I was really just intrigued that the inclusion of half stitch made the > bobbins unwind, which they hadn't done on the earlier strip on either side > of the pattern- > > It sounds to me like you use slightly different movement to work CTC and CT. > I know, I do. When I do cloth stitch, it's actually 5 movements for me: C, > T, C, push 1 pair aside, pull 1 new pair in, repeat. > > When I do half stitch, I get closer to throwing the bobbins and it becomes 3 > movements: C, T-and-drop (one pair aside), pull another pair in, repeat. > > The difference in handling could very well cause a difference in how much the > threads twist and/or in which direction they twist. I just don't know how > much or in what direction, never having examined the result. I'm always > checking for over/under twisting, and rolling the bobbin that need fixing, so > I don't pay attention to what might have caused more or less of it. > > Robin P. > Los Angeles, California, USA > robinl...@socal.rr.com > > Sue > > sueba...@comcast.net > > This sounds like the problem may be due to the pillow you are using. Are > you > using a cookie pillow with a high dome that would cause bobbind on the left > to > roll to the left, those on the right to roll towards the right. > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] twists
Sue Babbs wrote: I was really just intrigued that the inclusion of half stitch made the bobbins unwind, which they hadn't done on the earlier strip on either side of the pattern- It sounds to me like you use slightly different movement to work CTC and CT. I know, I do. When I do cloth stitch, it's actually 5 movements for me: C, T, C, push 1 pair aside, pull 1 new pair in, repeat. When I do half stitch, I get closer to throwing the bobbins and it becomes 3 movements: C, T-and-drop (one pair aside), pull another pair in, repeat. The difference in handling could very well cause a difference in how much the threads twist and/or in which direction they twist. I just don't know how much or in what direction, never having examined the result. I'm always checking for over/under twisting, and rolling the bobbins that need fixing, so I don't pay attention to what might have caused more or less of it. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com Sue sueba...@comcast.net This sounds like the problem may be due to the pillow you are using. Are you using a cookie pillow with a high dome that would cause bobbind on the left to roll to the left, those on the right to roll towards the right. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] twists
Intriguing, yes! I suppose the unwinding happens with the CT movement because there isn't a second C in the stitch sequence to reverse or counteract the T , be the T ever so subtle, each time? On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 6:51 AM, Sue Babbs wrote: > > I was really just intrigued that the inclusion of half stitch made the > bobbins unwind, which they hadn't done on the earlier strip on either side > of the pattern > > -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] twists
No, I'm using a Swedish roller pillow, with a wide apron, and as I said in a later message the flannel on the pillow prevents the bobbins from rolling. I was really just intrigued that the inclusion of half stitch made the bobbins unwind, which they hadn't done on the earlier strip on either side of the pattern Sue sueba...@comcast.net This sounds like the problem may be due to the pillow you are using. Are you using a cookie pillow with a high dome that would cause bobbind on the left to roll to the left, those on the right to roll towards the right. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] twists
Hi Aachnids Re: On 2013-01-05, at 1:22 PM, Sue Babbs wrote: Over the years we have been discussing, on and off, the fact that some bobbins seem to twist / untwist more than others. At present I am working a wide torchon edging in cashmere/silk mix, with the same thread and Swedish bobbins throughout. ON the left I have a half stitch fan for the headside, and on the right of the pattern is a variety of cloth stitch pairs and some ct pin ct areas. The bobbins in the half stitch area are losing their twist, and those on the right side with mostly ct pin ct are steadily gaining twist. Those in the middle (which probably travel in and out of the other areas) are more stable. I have never seen such pronounced differences as working in this lace-weight yarn. Sue This sounds like the problem may be due to the pillow you are using. Are you using a cookie pillow with a high dome that would cause bobbind on the left to roll to the left, those on the right to roll towards the right. Those in the centre will not roll much? Unspangled bobbins developed alongside flat, or nearly flat, pillows and do not work as well with domed pillows that cause them to roll away from the centre. This could account for the twists to occur in different directions. Domed pillows developed alongside the Midlands spangled bobbins, the spangles reducing any tendency for the bobbins to roll while the curvature of the pillow allows the bobbins to be easily spread, enables the weight of the spangle to act on the thread to keep the hitch in place and maintain tension. Hope this helps. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Twists in Bucks Point
Simon, I am working on some Bucks Point lace that has half stitch motifs surrounded by gimps. I don't know if I'm doing the right number of twists. I twist two after passing through the gimp, give an extra twist to the worker at the end of a row, and give an extra twist before passing through the gimp. Is that right? Everyone's probably a little different. The extra twist at the end of a row is correct, so that you keep the same bobbin as the worker. When it comes to gimps it really depends what's coming after you pass through. If you're coming out of a half stitch motif, there's no need for an extra twist before passing through. If you come out into a point ground of TCCC, then you need to do 3 twists after passing through the gimp. If you're coming out of a motif into a honeycomb area then 2 twists are required. I also do 2 twists before and after a nooky pin in the hollow part of a petal. Hope that's of some help David in Ballarat, AUS - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Twists in Bucks Point
In Bucks, the general rule of thumb (as I was taught) is that you put on the number of twists according to the stitch you are coming out of and going into, so for point ground on both sides, three twists (but not extra to those of the stitch). If you are coming out of point ground passing the gimp and going into honeycomb, it would be three before (as part of the stitch) and two after. If you are working gimp surrounding an area of cloth, it depends very much on the effect you want for your lace - I usually don't bother to twist at all on the cloth side of the gimp, so that the cloth sits snugly against the gimp with no gaps. The thing to remember is that twists create space, and the amount of space you want in your lace at a certain point dictates how many twists you use. No doubt if I'm wrong in any of this Alex, who is an expert in this lace, will correct me :-) In message <262d0b5d-4d72-400c-85c9-6e0a8454b...@gmail.com>, Simon Purple writes I am working on some Bucks Point lace that has half stitch motifs surrounded by gimps. I don't know if I'm doing the right number of twists. I twist two after passing through the gimp, give an extra twist to the worker at the end of a row, and give an extra twist before passing through the gimp. Is that right? Thanks, Simon -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Twists in Bucks Point
I am working on some Bucks Point lace that has half stitch motifs surrounded by gimps. I don't know if I'm doing the right number of twists. I twist two after passing through the gimp, give an extra twist to the worker at the end of a row, and give an extra twist before passing through the gimp. Is that right? Thanks, Simon Sent from my iPad, because I can't be bothered to use my desktop anymore. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Twists on edges
- Angela Simpson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Now the question. Do you put an extra twist on the end of the row in half stitch? If so why? It doesn't say to do this in the instructions I am following at present, but I keep feeling I should. What do you suggest? A teacher (I think Holly Van Sciver) explained twists on the edges to us this way. If you turned the edge with no twists on the pair, your threads could separate and leave you with a rainbow. There would be an inner loop of thread surrounded by an outer loop of thread. If you have one twist, the threads could still separate, leaving you with twin arches, kind of like the McDonald's symbol. With two twists, the threads can't separate. I used to always forget to do twists at the edges, until I had this explanation. Knowing why I did it, made me much more likely to do it. Cathy in Newark, DE - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]