RE: [lace] Help needed

[Lorelei Halley]

Alison
I don't have a video link for you but I do have diagrams on my website that
show what to do.
http://lynxlace.com/learningbobbinlace-basics.html#sewings 
In this next one, about half way down begins another description of sewings.
And about 90% down the file is a description of false plaits. These are
explained in sequential diagrams.
http://lynxlace.com/learningbobbinlace-tapelacemat.html 

You describe difficulties manipulating the crochet hook. The issue may be
the size of the hook. It has to be large enough to grab the whole thread,
without piercing the thread. But it needs to be small enough to get it
through the loop or hole where the sewing will be made.
Lorelei

-Original Message-
Subject: [lace] Help needed

"Returning to tape lace after a long time I am struggling with the sewings
and false plaits. "
from Alison in Colchester

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Re: [lace] Help needed

[Marianne Gallant]

Using a needle pin works the same way as using a crochet hook. But 
personally I find it more difficult since there is nothing at the end of 
the needle to catch and hold the thread. A needle pin is usually used 
with very fine threads, since you might damage the fine thread with the 
hook part of the crochet hook, but is seldom used when doing sewings 
with coarser threads.
If you are having difficulty using a fine crochet hook you will find 
using a needle pin even more difficult. It is likely easier to use a 
lazy susan with a thread loop that trying to use a needle pin.

*Marianne*

Marianne Gallant
Vernon, BC Canada
m...@shaw.ca
http://threadsnminis.blogspot.ca, https://www.facebook.com/GallantCreation/

On 2018-08-30 8:46 a.m., J Reardon wrote:
> I watched the video and saw she used a threaded needle in the Lazy Susan. Is 
> that the same as a needle pin? I didn’t think thread was involved with the 
> needle pin, but I’ve never seen one used.

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Re: [lace] Help needed

[J Reardon]

I watched the video and saw she used a threaded needle in the Lazy Susan. Is 
that the same as a needle pin? I didn’t think thread was involved with the 
needle pin, but I’ve never seen one used.

Jean Reardon
Western Pennsylvania 

> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3F9u6yaxKQw

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Re: [lace] Help needed

[Malvary Cole]

Allison, sorry to hear you have been ill.

Yesterday on Facebook I saw this link to doing sewings both with crochet 
hook and lazy Susan.  I hope this is what you were wanting:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3F9u6yaxKQw

If the link doesn't work - type into Google - Lou Woo youtube lace sewing

Malvary in Ottawa where it is a little cooler and less humid today (41c 
humidex yesterday)


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Re: [lace] Help needed

[Brenda Paternoster]

If you are struggling to grasp the thread try using a mini latch hook.
Hemline sell them as snag repair tools.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hemline-H248-Miniature-Latch-Repair/dp/B002TYE4GQ


Brenda

> I've lost some of my manual dexterity due to illness and a crochet hook is
> not working. I have what I think is called a needle pin and Bridget cook's
> practical skills in lace book but I am struggling to make it work.

Brenda in Allhallows

paternos...@appleshack.com
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Help needed

[lynrbailey]

Dear Allison, 2 things.  If you can, take your lace outside to enjoy the 
weather.  
I suggest looking for a crochet hook of close to proper size with a really 
thick handle, perhaps the width of a wine cork.  Also, possibly enlarging the 
pattern and thread to make it all easier to deal with might be useful.  Sadly, 
I do not know of a utube video.

Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, now in Brussels, Belgium.


"My email sends out an automatic  message. Arachne members,
please ignore it. I read your emails."



>Returning to tape lace after a long time I am struggling with the sewings
>and false plaits.
>
>I've lost some of my manual dexterity due to illness and a crochet hook is
>not working. I have what I think is called a needle pin and Bridget cook's
>practical skills in lace book but I am struggling to make it work.
>
>Does anyone know if there is a utube video explaining how to do this?
>
>

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Re: [lace] Help Needed

[Malvary J Cole]

Jacquie wrote:  My sister Malvary is making a curtain in strips (and the 
pressure of everyone asking how she's getting on with it has helped her 
being near to finishing) which she has joined on the pillow to get a good 
tension at the joins, but she found even with only one strip to join on, it 
reduced the portability considerably.


I would also confirm that there is a fair amount of shrinkage and to pin the 
finished length back onto the pillow requires a bit of pulling to get the 
design in place.


After having made a big boo-boo in laying out the completed pieces for the 
'last strip' I took  8.5 days to unpick the strip, re-organized the pieces 
and set off once again to work the last strip.  However, I didn't like the 
way two strips looked, so I completed the strip I was working on, then cut 
off one strip, turned over one strip to face the other way, and now I really 
am working on the last strip.  I have about half to go.  I want to get it 
finished before Lace Convention in April next year, which I don't think will 
be a problem, might even get it finished by Christmas (but probably not).


Malvary in Ottawa who has just come back from Grand Cayman where it was hot 
and sunny to cool and cloudy but no snow yet! 


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Re: [lace] Help Needed

[Brenda Paternoster]

Hi Karen

I don't know how you design BL (computer or hand drawn)  but with Adobe 
Illustrator which I use the circumference of a circular edging is the 
measurement around the centre of the edging, the outside edge will be slightly 
bigger and the inside edge/footside will be smaller.

If the strip of lace is, say, 6cm wide to get an exact outside diameter of 
150cm you would calculate the first ring as circumference of 144 cm half of 6cm 
taken off each side of the circle).  The second ring will have a circumference 
of 138cm, the third a circumference 132cm and so on.

Circumference is ∏ x diameter =
3.1416 x diameter
so the outside ring will be 4.5239 metres in length down the centre.

With Illustrator it's a case of drawing one full repeat of the pattern and 
using that as a pattern brush to draw the circle.  The software will stretch or 
squash slightly to adjust the length required but keeps the width.  I don't 
know how 'Lace RX' or 'Knipling' works.

For large circle like that it would be a case of printing out just a few 
repeats to make a pricking with and then make sure that the right number of 
repeats is worked.

Alternatively, if you are thinking of making a fairly fine lace, such as point 
ground or fine torchon with a proper footedge you might find that the natural 
curve which that type of lace gets (without adding extra twists to the outside 
pair to counteract that curve) will be enough to curve the first few rings - 
just work a long enough 'straight' edging/insertion of the required length.

Brenda


On 30 Nov 2010, at 20:19, Karen Zammit Manduca wrote:

 I am planning to design and work a wedding veil in bobbin lace for my
 daughters and niece to wear if they ever get married - if not it will just
 be a family heirloom (I hope). 
 
 My idea is to make this a 1.5 metre circle and to start working in bands
 from the outside in. You may ask why from the outside in. Well, my
 reasoning is that if I don't get to the end of it, I would have an outer
 circle worked and I will just mount this onto tulle. You may ask why in
 bands and the idea is that it will be manageable, fast and portable.
 
 So the question is this: How do I calculate the outer circle size and the
 size of the grid for that circle? - I can work on a torchon grid. How do I
 then calculate the sizes of the inner circles as I move inwards?

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.me.uk

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RE: [lace] Help Needed

[Karen Zammit Manduca]

Thanks for your advice Jane and Brenda. I'm saving all the replies for now 
until I have time to try drawing again. Must be soon.
Karen in Malta

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RE: [lace] Help Needed

[Jo]

Hi Karen

You could try to play with
http://bobbinwork.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/webstart/bwpGrid.jnlp
Explained at http://bobbinwork.wikispaces.com/quick+start+for+grids
It counts in mm and wants at least half a circle on a page.
But you could try as if mm's are cm's and enlarge 10 times.

The help is a wiki so anyone is welcome to improve it. 

 So the question is this: How do I calculate the outer circle 
 size and the size of the grid for that circle? - I can work 
 on a torchon grid. How do I then calculate the sizes of the 
 inner circles as I move inwards? 

Jo
Founder of this Open Source project

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Re: [lace] Help Needed

[Laceandbits]

1.5m diameter diameter presumably?  So this will be almost straight on 
the outer bands. It could be quite difficult to get a polar grid with so 
little curve 

Using an approximate pi (which is actually 3.1416),  you can multiply the 
diameter by 3 for a guesstimate of the lengths requires, so you are looking 
at a little over 4.5 metres of lace for the outer ring (when you are nearer 
the final calculations you use the actual pi, ie  1.5 x 3.146 which = 4.719m, 
so you can see that x3 gives you a near enough for your original 
calculations).  Also, although this is the mathematical length, your lace will 
almost 
certainly shrink a little when you take the pins out, so as far as the 
pricking length is concerned, you will be making more than 4.719m

Depending on how wide your lace is, the next ring or two won't be a lot 
shorter.  For example, once you have done 10cm width of lace, you take this off 
BOTH sides of the circle, leaving 1.3m diameter, x 3 is 3.9metres of lace, 
and so on.

How are you planning on joining the next ring to the first?  Sewn on the 
pillow or needle and thread afterwards (as in lots of old Maltese lace)?  My 
sister Malvary is making a curtain in strips (and the pressure of everyone 
asking how she's getting on with it has helped her being near to finishing) 
which she has joined on the pillow to get a good tension at the joins, but she 
found even with only one strip to join on, it reduced the portability 
considerably.  Or are you mounting the first ring on tulle, and then adding the 
next ring a little way in and so on, rather than joining lace to lace.  You 
will be allowing yourself a little margin for error if you do it that way.   
And it could be used at any point, with more lace added later.  another 
option would be that you could do some rings with shaped headside edge laces 
and 
just sew to the tulle along the straight edge, rather than all the inner 
ones needing to be insertion type lace.

Another thought is that as you are working curves, what sort of pillow do 
you work on?  The traditional tall Maltese bolster?  Work out how the shape 
of the lace will fit on the shape of your pillow.  In Spain, the lacemakers 
often use a thinnish foam pad (like a yoga mat?) under their pricking and if 
the lace ends up in an awkward place on their bolster pillow, they peel the 
pad off and push it back down in a better place.  For a large/long piece, 
they use two or more pieces of foam in a similar way to how I would use a 
block pillow, with the bonus that they can place them wherever they want on 
their pillow.

Perhaps if you draw out the circle (or a wedge from it at least), you could 
start drawing in the rings matching the widths of the various rings of lace 
you are planning on working.  You will then be able to see the amount of 
curve needed for any particular band, and be able to draft the grid that you 
need.  You'll only need about 20 or 30cm for each ring, which you can then 
copy a few times to give enough pricking to last the length to be worked.

So many things to think about, but that's the pleasure of lacemaking.

Jacquie in Lincolnshire

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RE: [lace] Help Needed

[Karen Zammit Manduca]

Thanks everyone for your help so far.

To reply to Jacquie's questions:
I would prefer to sew on the pillow - hmmm and that is going to reduce on
portability as well
I find that most old lace separates at the sewing so I have made it a policy
to sew on the pillow when I can.or work as one piece.
As regards the pillow, I confess that I don't really like to work on the
Maltese pillow much, and when I do, I have adapted the design to make one
with blocks to save me having to lift the work every six inches or so. For
this veil, I think I will use the Spanish style roller pillow with a support
for the bobbins underneath it. My friend has one and I will probably ask if
I can try it out. Then if I find it comfortable I will buy or make one for
myself because this is a project that will take very long. Alternatively, I
can use a flat nine-block pillow so that as the circle creeps towards the
edge, I can simply shift it inwards again but moving the blocks.

I haven't decided on the thread yet but am still trying samples. I would
like to use a pure silk that is not too fine. I think I would like something
thicker than the Guterman S303 and am waiting for some Piper's samples. I
have already tried 45 and 50 and found them too thick so am using them to
cover a lampshade instead.

Karen in Malta



-Original Message-
From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of
laceandb...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 11:05 PM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: Re: [lace] Help Needed

1.5m diameter diameter presumably?  So this will be almost straight on 
the outer bands. It could be quite difficult to get a polar grid with so 
little curve 

Using an approximate pi (which is actually 3.1416),  you can multiply the 
diameter by 3 for a guesstimate of the lengths requires, so you are looking 
at a little over 4.5 metres of lace for the outer ring (when you are nearer 
the final calculations you use the actual pi, ie  1.5 x 3.146 which =
4.719m, 
so you can see that x3 gives you a near enough for your original 
calculations).  Also, although this is the mathematical length, your lace
will almost 
certainly shrink a little when you take the pins out, so as far as the 
pricking length is concerned, you will be making more than 4.719m

Depending on how wide your lace is, the next ring or two won't be a lot 
shorter.  For example, once you have done 10cm width of lace, you take this
off 
BOTH sides of the circle, leaving 1.3m diameter, x 3 is 3.9metres of lace, 
and so on.

How are you planning on joining the next ring to the first?  Sewn on the 
pillow or needle and thread afterwards (as in lots of old Maltese lace)?  My

sister Malvary is making a curtain in strips (and the pressure of everyone 
asking how she's getting on with it has helped her being near to finishing) 
which she has joined on the pillow to get a good tension at the joins, but
she 
found even with only one strip to join on, it reduced the portability 
considerably.  Or are you mounting the first ring on tulle, and then adding
the 
next ring a little way in and so on, rather than joining lace to lace.  You 
will be allowing yourself a little margin for error if you do it that way.

And it could be used at any point, with more lace added later.  another 
option would be that you could do some rings with shaped headside edge laces
and 
just sew to the tulle along the straight edge, rather than all the inner 
ones needing to be insertion type lace.

Another thought is that as you are working curves, what sort of pillow do 
you work on?  The traditional tall Maltese bolster?  Work out how the shape 
of the lace will fit on the shape of your pillow.  In Spain, the lacemakers 
often use a thinnish foam pad (like a yoga mat?) under their pricking and if

the lace ends up in an awkward place on their bolster pillow, they peel the 
pad off and push it back down in a better place.  For a large/long piece, 
they use two or more pieces of foam in a similar way to how I would use a 
block pillow, with the bonus that they can place them wherever they want on 
their pillow.

Perhaps if you draw out the circle (or a wedge from it at least), you could 
start drawing in the rings matching the widths of the various rings of lace 
you are planning on working.  You will then be able to see the amount of 
curve needed for any particular band, and be able to draft the grid that you

need.  You'll only need about 20 or 30cm for each ring, which you can then 
copy a few times to give enough pricking to last the length to be worked.

So many things to think about, but that's the pleasure of lacemaking.

Jacquie in Lincolnshire

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Re: [lace] Help needed

[Jane Nelson]

Thanks so much to Beth, Alice and Tamara for great help on the angel.
I'm getting out of my box with this pattern and hope that it will lead
to doing more challenging patterns.
I will let you know how it progresses and maybe even a picture when  
it is done.

Thanks again for being there.
Jane


On Sep 17, 2008, at 7:48, Jane Nelson wrote:


Good morning all -
There is a pattern for Angel of Peace by Brigitta Gornik in the  
Fall 2007 issue of the IOLI bulletin [...]



So - first question beginning at number 1:
1 edge pair - metallic Why just one pair?




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Re: [lace] Help needed

[beth]

Hi Jane

I haven't seen that particular pattern, but normally where you have a half 
stitch section with a different-coloured edge pair, the edge pair are the 
passives nearest to the edge and you work through them in cloth stitch (CTC) 
or cloth stitch and twist instead of half stitch (that way they stay together 
and in the right place while all the other pairs go off in their half-stitch 
maypole dance).
Hope that helps

Beth
in an unusually sunny Cheshire, NW England  

 Jane wrote:


 So - first question beginning at number 1:
 1 edge pair - metallic
 Why just one pair? And how does it exactly work in?
 I understand the 10 pairs plus one worker to work the section in half
 stitch.
 But don't know what to do with the metallic pair.


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Re: [lace] Help needed

[Tamara P Duvall]

On Sep 17, 2008, at 7:48, Jane Nelson wrote:


Good morning all -
There is a pattern for Angel of Peace by Brigitta Gornik in the Fall 
2007 issue of the IOLI bulletin [...]



So - first question beginning at number 1:
1 edge pair - metallic Why just one pair?


Because each thread of that pair will become a mate to one thread of  
white, thus forming the two outlining (whole stitched: CTCT) pairs of 
the skirt.



And how does it exactly work in?


1) Hang in, open (rainbow): two white pairs and one metallic pair on 
the central pin of the top of the center-skirt section. The metallic 
pair hangs between the two white pairs.
2) On the left hand side: T(wist) the metallic thread and the nearest 
white thread. On th rrght hand side: T(wist) the nearest white thread 
and the metallic thread.
You wil now have: a mixed pair (on the left), an all white pair (in the 
middle) and a mixed pair (on the right). Twist all 3 pairs.

3) On each of the next two pins on the left, hang two white pairs.
4) Pass each of those newly hung in pairs through the mixed pair, to 
the centre in whole stitch (CTCT).
Repeat 3 and 4 for the right hand side. You now have: one 
whole-stitched, mixed thread passive on the left, 9 all white passives 
in the centre (to be worked in half stitch) and one mixed pair on the 
right.
5) On the next pin to the left, hang in your (all white) worker pair. 
Whole stitch (CTCT) through the mixed pair, half stitch through the 
next 9 (white) pairs, whole stitch through the last mixed pair. Twist 
the worker pair *, pin under it, whole stich through the mixed pair, 
half stitch through the next 9 pairs, whole stitch through the mixed 
pair etc.


*Note. As you know, in half stitch, only one *thread* actually travels 
through the row of passives, changing its mate with every stitch (very 
promiscuous g). When the worker pair emerges from the whole stitch 
with the mixed pair, it's twisted once. If you twist it once more for 
the pin and then whole stitch it again through the (mixed) edge pair, 
*the same thread* will act as a worker going back through the row.


It is better, therefore, to give that pair *two extra* twists for the 
pin, which will let the other thread act as the new worker, once past 
the mixed pair. This way, you will utilise the thread on all bobbins 
more evenly, as each of them will, in its turn, act as a worker. It 
also leaves a slightly larger loop around the pin, which will be useful 
when you sew in the sides.


6) When you get to the bottom of the half-stitched part of the central 
panel, get rid of the two mixed pairs: whole stitch the one on the 
right, through all 9 passives, to the left. Leave (you can tie a knot 
on it, to hold better). Whole stitch the mixed pair from the left, to 
the right, through the 9 passive pairs. Leave.
7) Divide the 9 passive pairs + the worker pair (left on the right-hand 
side) into groups of 2 pairs, make 5 tallies, to the horizontal bottom 
line. End each tally with a cloth stitch, pin between the two pairs, T 
(maybe T2, the stabilising pfalse plait coming from the side panel 
will need to sew into each hole) each pair, plait to about the bottom 
line of the name box. Knot each plait and cut off.


At least... That's how I'd do it :)  I can't tell, for certain-sure how 
Ms Gornik had done it, because the photo is not sharp enough.


--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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Re: [lace] Help needed in Germany

[Sue Duckles]

Hi All

The ebay lace shop in Germany did not respond to my emails regarding  
payment via paypal and delivery to England so I just paid them the  
amount specified for German postage and they sent them!!  Maybe that's  
the case here too!


Sue in EY
On 8 Sep 2008, at 11:32, Agnes Boddington wrote:


Hello Ann-Marie

I know that I haev bought patterns from them via enay and they  
accept Paypal then.
Just sent them an email to ask about orders from abroad and methods  
of payment.
I did sent it in German, as I speak and teach German, so see if we  
get a response or not.


Agnes Boddington - dreary East Yorkshire UK (wiht more rain forecast  
and piles of washing).


Ann-Marie Andersson wrote:

About a month ago I ordered a booklet and a pattern from the web  
shop at
Chemnitzer Klöppelwerkstatt in Germany  http://www.kloeppelwerkstatt.de/ 
  but
I never received a reply to my order or my e-mail message so I  
suppose they
don't accept foreign customers. Could someone in Germany please  
order for me?
I will pay through bank transfer or PayPal. Please contact me  
privately.


A similar thing happened a couple of years ago at Spitzen Boutique
http://www.spitzen-boutique.de/ . I ordered patterns but got no  
reply to any
of my e-mails. Perhaps if someone in Germany would be kind enough  
to contact

them too?





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Re: [lace] Help needed in Germany

[Agnes Boddington]

Hello Ann-Marie

I know that I haev bought patterns from them via enay and they accept 
Paypal then.
Just sent them an email to ask about orders from abroad and methods of 
payment.
I did sent it in German, as I speak and teach German, so see if we get a 
response or not.


Agnes Boddington - dreary East Yorkshire UK (wiht more rain forecast and 
piles of washing).


Ann-Marie Andersson wrote:


About a month ago I ordered a booklet and a pattern from the web shop at
Chemnitzer Klöppelwerkstatt in Germany  http://www.kloeppelwerkstatt.de/  but
I never received a reply to my order or my e-mail message so I suppose they
don't accept foreign customers. Could someone in Germany please order for me?
I will pay through bank transfer or PayPal. Please contact me privately.

A similar thing happened a couple of years ago at Spitzen Boutique
http://www.spitzen-boutique.de/ . I ordered patterns but got no reply to any
of my e-mails. Perhaps if someone in Germany would be kind enough to contact
them too?


 



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Re: [lace] help needed

[Brenda Paternoster]

Jane,

The only 28/2 linen (that I've seen) is Juul linen, which measured 
2S-19 wraps/cm.


Bouc 30 or Fresia 30/2 and Guetermann linen are all very similar, 2S-19 
wraps/cm.  Knox Falcon 30 and Knox Gimp 20 also measured the same but 
they were discontinued many years ago.


I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?)  Goldschild Nm 50/3 
(NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit 
rounder/firmer than a 2 ply.


Brenda

On 7 Aug 2008, at 04:33, Jane O'Connor wrote:

Is there a comparable thread to 28/2 [Goldshilds Nel 50/3 [green 
label]? I

cannot find anything in the Threads book.
 Thanks in advance.Jane O'Connor



Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Re: [lace] help needed

[Jane O'Connor]

Thanks for the help, Brenda. I know I have never heard of the Goldschild
thread. I'm going to have to do some trial and error sampling and if nothing
looks correct, it will be shrinking the pattern to fit what thread is
available.

 Jane O'Connor 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
New Lenox, IL USA 


Life is
like a roll of toilet paper.
The closer it gets to the end, the faster it
goes.
So have fun, think 'good thoughts' only, 
learn to laugh at yourself and
count your blessings!



- Original Message 
From: Brenda Paternoster
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jane O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc:
lace@arachne.com
Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2008 4:16:08 AM
Subject: Re: [lace]
help needed

Jane,

The only 28/2 linen (that I've seen) is Juul linen, which
measured 
2S-19 wraps/cm.

Bouc 30 or Fresia 30/2 and Guetermann linen are all
very similar, 2S-19 
wraps/cm.  Knox Falcon 30 and Knox Gimp 20 also measured
the same but 
they were discontinued many years ago.

I haven't seen
Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?)  Goldschild Nm 50/3 
(NeL 80/3) is finer at
24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit 
rounder/firmer than a 2 ply.
Brenda

On 7 Aug 2008, at 04:33, Jane O'Connor wrote:

 Is there a comparable
thread to 28/2 [Goldshilds Nel 50/3 [green 
 label]? I
 cannot find anything
in the Threads book.
  Thanks in advance.Jane O'Connor


Brenda in
Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Re: [lace] help needed

[Sandra Adelberger]

Hello Brenda,

see https://www.langendorfkloeppel.de/home/index.php?cPath=31_63
They have Goldschild Leinen
Nel: 18/3
= Nm: 11/3
Nel: 30/3
Nm: 20/3
Nel: 50/3
Nm: 30/3
Nel: 66/3
Nm: 40/3
Nel: 80/3
Nm: 50/3
Nel: 100/3
Nm: 60/3
But I'm not sure, if this is the Goldschild linen lace yarn, that you mean.

Regards
Sandra from Germany (near Munich)


--- Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] schrieb am Do, 7.8.2008:
Von: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Betreff: Re: [lace] help needed
An: Jane O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: lace@arachne.com
Datum: Donnerstag, 7. August 2008, 11:16

... text deleted

I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?)  Goldschild Nm 50/3
(NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit
rounder/firmer than a 2 ply.

... text deleted


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Re: [lace] help needed

[Brenda Paternoster]

Hello Sandra

Thanks for that info - yes it is Goldschild.  Other links to Goldschild 
on that site bring up the same page.


NeL 50/3 - Nm 30/3 is the one size that I don't have, but coming 
between NeL 30/3 (16 w/cm) and NeL 66/3 (22 w/cm)  it is quite likely 
that it will measure 19 w/cm as per the original query from Jane.


Although it measures the same, it's a 3ply thread so won't compare 
exactly to the 28/2 Jane asked about.


Brenda



Hello Brenda,

see https://www.langendorfkloeppel.de/home/index.php?cPath=31_63
They have Goldschild Leinen
Nel: 18/3 = Nm: 11/3
Nel: 30/3 Nm: 20/3
Nel: 50/3 Nm: 30/3
Nel: 66/3 Nm: 40/3
Nel: 80/3 Nm: 50/3
Nel: 100/3 Nm: 60/3
But I'm not sure, if this is the Goldschild linen lace yarn, that you 
mean.


Regards
Sandra from Germany (near Munich)


--- Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] schrieb am Do, 
7.8.2008:

Von: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Betreff: Re: [lace] help needed
An: Jane O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: lace@arachne.com
Datum: Donnerstag, 7. August 2008, 11:16

... text deleted

I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?)  Goldschild Nm 50/3
(NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit
rounder/firmer than a 2 ply.

... text deleted


Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Re: [lace] help needed

[Jane O'Connor]

Thanks ladies! Would you believe a friend [thanks Doris] went to her thread
stash and found the Goldschild green label thread? She said it says right on
the label equal to 50/3 linen thread. I did see Londonerry linen yesterday but
it was all 35/2 and I was looking for 28/2 so didn't bother buying any. It was
really quite thick/heavy thread and looked too 'ugly'  for a table runner. It
probably would work just fine and not need starching at all. 

 Jane O'Connor
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
New Lenox, IL USA 


Life is like a roll of toilet
paper.
The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes.
So have fun, think
'good thoughts' only, 
learn to laugh at yourself and count your blessings!
- Original Message 
From: Sandra Adelberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: lace@arachne.com
Sent:
Thursday, August 7, 2008 10:34:54 AM
Subject: Re: [lace] help needed

Hello
Brenda,

see https://www.langendorfkloeppel.de/home/index.php?cPath=31_63
They
have Goldschild Leinen
Nel: 18/3
= Nm: 11/3
Nel: 30/3
Nm: 20/3
Nel: 50/3
Nm:
30/3
Nel: 66/3
Nm: 40/3
Nel: 80/3
Nm: 50/3
Nel: 100/3
Nm: 60/3
But I'm not
sure, if this is the Goldschild linen lace yarn, that you mean.

Regards
Sandra from Germany (near Munich)


--- Brenda Paternoster
[EMAIL PROTECTED] schrieb am Do, 7.8.2008:
Von: Brenda Paternoster
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Betreff: Re: [lace] help needed
An: Jane
O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: lace@arachne.com
Datum: Donnerstag, 7.
August 2008, 11:16

... text deleted

I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is
it made?)  Goldschild Nm 50/3
(NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also
being 3 ply it is a bit
rounder/firmer than a 2 ply.

... text deleted
__
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Spam leid? Yahoo! Mail verf端gt 端ber einen herausragenden Schutz gegen
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Re: [lace] Help needed--Display of lace pillow

[Agnes Boddington]

Hello Lorraine

One way is to secure the bobbins to the pillow with double-pronged 
jeweller's pins.
I use these when transporting a pillow with lace work in progress on, 
and they never fail to keep the

bobbins in place.

Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK


Lorraine Weiss wrote:


Hello all--

A conservator friend sent this to me from a conservation listserve, and I am
forwarding it here in case someone in or near Toronto can help the writer.

regards,
Lorraine Weiss in Albany, NY

 From: Shirley Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: November 5, 2007 10:51:25 AM EST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: lace-making pillow
 Reply-To: Textile Conservators [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 Hello All,
 We have a lace-making pillow WITH bobbins and attached lace going out on
display.  The threads are currently tangled up and the bobbins splayed out in
a half circle.  The curator would like this pillow to look as if it was being
worked, ie with portions of the bobbins looped over pins in various sections
on the pillow.


 I am concerned about the weight of the bobbins, hanging from their threads
and would like to have them supported on display.  Does anyone have any
experience or knowledge of seeing lace-making pillows and bobbins on exhibit
and how this was handled?  Obviously, whatever is done needs to be unobtrusive
and right now I can't think of anything other than plexi tiers which really
isn't that minimal.


 Any ideas would be welcome.


 thanks
 shirley


 Shirley Ellis
 Textile Conservator, Royal Ontario Museum
 100 Queen's Park
 Toronto, ON  M5S 2C6
 ph:  416 586-5878; fax:  416 586-8036
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [lace] Help needed--Display of lace pillow

[Sue]

Hi Agnes,

And what are double pronged jewellers pins and where do I get them from?

Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK

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Re: [lace] Help needed--Display of lace pillow

[Debora Lustgarten]

Dear Lorraine and group, thanks!
Replied privately.
Debora Lustgarten
Toronto, Ontario, Canada

At 03:42 PM 11/5/2007, you wrote:
Hello all--

A conservator friend sent this to me from a conservation listserve, and I am
forwarding it here in case someone in or near Toronto can help the writer.

regards,
Lorraine Weiss in Albany, NY

   From: Shirley Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: November 5, 2007 10:51:25 AM EST
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Subject: lace-making pillow
   Reply-To: Textile Conservators [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Goblins are what happen when leprechauns and
gnomes get drunk on the beach at night.
Ralph The Elf – Call Me Claus

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Re: [lace] Help needed with embroidery machine

[Sue Babbs]

I have a Husqvarna embroidery card reader / writer  for their #1+ sewing 
machine and have checked the label on the transformer. The output for it is 
13.5V


You could always email the manufacturer and check:
http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/uk/406.htm

Sue 


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Re: [lace] Help needed with Wikipedia lace articles: second call

[Helen]

Hi,

I'd love to help, but don't know enough about any of the forms of lace to 
write an article by my self.  If anyone has collated any useful info but 
doesn't have the time or inclination to write it up, I'll have a go over 
the summer break.


Helen

At 00:55 06/06/2005, Julie Enevoldsen wrote:


Gentle spiders,
I'm a little surprised by the apparent lack of response to my earlier
invitation to help with the Wikipedia lace information.





Helen in Somerset, UK 



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Re: [lace] help needed M Bruggeman

[Sonja Sillay]

 From: Tonnie McBroom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I picked up a booklet last year of lace patterns of animals,
but I have no idea of how to make it, or where to start.

Hi Tonnie and all,

What I have been told is Martine Bruggeman doesn't make any
instructions when she designs her lace.
It is up to the lacemaker to create her/his own style.
I have quite a few of the patterns as I just like them so much.

In my webshots you can see the swans in a heart it is from a pattern by
Martine B.
http://community.webshots.com/user/sonjasillay
The thread I used is Bockens linen 60/2 and used
the same thread but in 35/2 for the edge pair.
I think the clue with this sort of patterns is we have to
plan the work carefully before we start.
First decide what side you work form - the front or the back.
I worked from the back so I made the swans first as they are in front of the
heart. Then the water, heart and last the green.
If you have a scanner scan the pattern and look at it on the screen
you can see so much more then.
Experiment with twists, different stitches and colours.
It is really nice lace to make and you don't use many pairs.
Good luck and I would love to see your elephant in the webshot album when it
is done / Sonja

Sonja Sillay
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [lace] help needed, please

[Tonnie McBroom]

I don't think there are fillings in the center. It's more like a line 
drawing, with the lace forming lines of different thickness. If someone 
can tell me how to upload pictures to the webshots folder, I will put a 
scanned picture up there so you can see it.

Tonnie
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi,
I'm a relative beginner but this sounds like braid or tape lace to 
me (the outlines) which have one worker pair and about 3-7 passive 
pairs (depending on the thickness of the edging.  I presume that there 
are fillings in the centre of the animals which are done afterwards 
by joining in pairs. 

Find a convenient join in the braid outline (could even me marked) 
and then set up for whole stitch, this is what I have been instructed 
to do.

I'll look at my books and see if I can find some more details.  Do you 
have anything on Bruges Flower Lace as this will give you some ideas 
of the outlines.

Hope this helps in some small way.
Regards, Babs (UK)
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Re: [lace] help needed, please

[Clay Blackwell]

Hi Tonnie !

I Googled on Martine Bruggeman and found the following,
so that others may be able to see what you're talking about.
Her designs are a form of tape lace, as Babs suggested.  But
since I don't have much experience in this form of
lacemaking, I won't venture to suggest what distinguishes it
from other tape laces...

http://www.kloeppelshop.de/cgi-bin/webshop.pl?f=NRc=N93090t=temartic

Clay
- Original Message - 
From: Tonnie McBroom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Lace [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: [lace] help needed, please


 To all the wonderful lace spiders - I have a question
 I picked up a booklet last year of lace patterns of
animals, but I have
 no idea of how to make it, or where to start. I picked it
up in Brugge
 at the Lace Museum. On the cover is a picture of an
elephant (the reason
 I bought it) - the title is 10 Tropische Dieren, on the
bottom is
 Martine Bruggeman (the author?). (I obviously have no idea
what it says!
 :-P )

 When I bought it I thought I probably had a book at home
with some kind
 of hints or instructions of how to make this style of
bobbin lace, but I
 don't. And since I really don't know what this style is
called - I'm not
 sure what kind of instruction book to look for :-\ .

 The patterns are line drawings - with indications of half
and whole
 stitches for the wider lines. I'm not exactly a beginner
lace maker -
 but my experience has been in torchon, buckspoint,
flanders, binche and
 dabbled in chantilly... all continuous lace styles - I'm
not sure how to
 start this type of picture

 Can someone suggest a book to look for? or give me a hint
as to how to
 start and progress on this?
 thanks! :-)
 Tonnie McBroom
 Phx, AZ, USA

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Re: [lace] help needed, please

[Alice Howell]

At 02:22 PM 8/3/2004, you wrote:
I Googled on Martine Bruggeman and found the following,
http://www.kloeppelshop.de/cgi-bin/webshop.pl?f=NRc=N93090t=temartic
Thanks Clay.  This page does show the general style of the pattern Tonnie 
has, but not the same pattern.

I recommended the book  100 New Bobbin lace Patterns by Yusai 
Fukuyama.  Dover 1986.  ISBN 0-486-40070-0.   It is not a regular 
instruction book but has lots of hints and diagrams for various tape lace 
situations.  It's the best I've come across so far for modern tape lace -- 
at least with English language included.

Alice in Oregon
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