Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines (long)

2006-07-07 Thread Jeriames
In a message dated 7/7/06 12:58:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 And I was in the fabric/sewing-machine/vacuum-cleaner store 
 today and thought I'd better ask whether that statement was 
 still true -- I spotted the leather belts hanging on the 
 wall behind the repairman when I was halfway through asking 
 my question, but it's good that I asked -- he said that 
 nowadays they also make elastic belts to fit treadle sewing 
 machines.
 

Dear Lacemakers,

Thank you, Joy.  Although my conservation/restoration training focused on 
textiles, we need to remember that everything is subject to change based on the 
atmosphere in which it resides. In the case of old manually-operated sewing 
machines, leather or rubber belts will be affected (as time goes by) by changes 
in temperature and humidity. To keep the leather belts on my two 
un-electrified Singers from experiencing too much stress, I keep the belts 
dis-engaged and 
would treat the leather with special products that would keep them supple if 
I intended to use them. I use a dehumidifier in Summer and a humidifier during 
heating season in an attempt to avoid extremes for self and collections.

While on the subject of unelectrified machines - I have wandered in and out 
of Costume Society of America events for years. At this year's symposium, I 
re-met a woman whose home I had visited some 20+ years ago. She and her husband 
collect old sewing machines and own more than I have ever seen in one place. 
Their home is large. Every room has machines of all makes and for all types of 
sewing, lace and embroidery purposes. This collection is well-known by certain 
groups, and I am not the only one who has seen this fascinating accumulation 
of evidence that there were machines made for specialist seamstresses and 
tailors to use when working for their particular clientele.  

Consider the fact that there was a variety of people who were customers in 
need of clothing. The expectations of these customers depended on class, 
culture, country vs. city, etc. For instance, in the late Victorian and 
Edwardian 
periods, some wealthy people maintained a room in their homes for the use of 
the 
family seamstress. She would come to the home for a period of time each year, 
or each season, and prepare/mend household linens and clothing. She would also 
come to work for a family when a prospective bride was preparing her 
trousseau. Many books confirm this practice. Much skill and speed was expected 
of such 
a seamstress and her sewing equipment.

For well over a century, students have been educated in specialty technical 
schools where they are taught the fashion business from end-to-end. They have 
been documenting both historic and current fashions in books, museum 
exhibitions, on stage, in motion pictures, etc. There are many more courses of 
study and 
books available on this subject than on lace and embroidery combined. It is 
important for members of this list (Arachne) who are collectors of lace and 
embroidery to learn how to read these products. That means close inspection 
of 
lace and embroidery to determine whether made by hand or machine.

Thanks, Angela - for your informative articles.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace  Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-06 Thread Joy Beeson

Joy Beeson wrote:

Those belts are still being made.  


And I was in the fabric/sewing-machine/vacuum-cleaner store 
today and thought I'd better ask whether that statement was 
still true -- I spotted the leather belts hanging on the 
wall behind the repairman when I was halfway through asking 
my question, but it's good that I asked -- he said that 
nowadays they also make elastic belts to fit treadle sewing 
machines.


--
Joy Beeson
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather)
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
where it's sunny, but not too hot.

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Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-05 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Domestic sewing machines were used for domestic sewing - plain sewing, 
seams and hems.  Very few people had a sewing machine at home prior to 
the 20th century.  Industrial machines, which were around in factories 
from early/mid 19th century *were* used (and designed for) embroidery.


Brenda

On 5 Jul 2006, at 22:29, Jean Nathan wrote:

I endorse what Tamara says. Don't know Jeri's background, but I too 
come from a long line of weavers, tailors and dressmakers all in the 
East End of London (the poor part), and the emphasis was on making 
basic plain clothing, reusing the good parts of discarded clothes from 
the wealthy, hemming and binding sheets, blankets, and other household 
furnishings, and mending. Lace and embroidery were embellishments 
which had no place in the lives of those people. Everything was done 
as cheaply and quickly as possible to earn a few pennies for basic 
needs.


Never heard reference of a sewing machine being used for embroidery 
until the early 1950s, and never heard of it's use for lace until very 
recently. Even when my mother bought a brand new Singer machine in the 
early 50s, the salesman's pitch was only for its utilitarian and 
money-saving uses. The instruction book didn't mention them either.


My grandmother (born 1884) used to buy as many of the needlecraft 
magazines she could afford (she was earning pennies for errands and 
babysitting at age 10), especially when she was young, and passed some 
of them on to my mother. They were brown and falling apart when my 
mother died, but I looked at them all before binning them. None of the 
advertisements for sewing machines mentioned embroidery or lace. I 
assume they were pubished in the UK.


Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK
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Brenda
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

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Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-03 Thread Joy Beeson

Angel Skubic wrote:


I have an old singer treadle machine. I love it. It needs
a new belt though...the other one just plain got old and
dry...


Those belts are still being made.  Ask at any place that
repairs sewing machines.  The belt is held together by an S 
hook, and there is a notch in the drive wheel, so it's quite 
easy to take the old one off and put the new one on.  It 
should require you to trim a bit off and poke a new hole for 
the S hook in the cut end to get a tight fit.  Any good, 
sharp knife will cut the leather.


--
Joy Beeson
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather)
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.

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Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-02 Thread robinlace
Sewing machines that can do embroidery stitches are relatively new, 
although my mother's old (early 1950's) Necchi can do a whole lot of 
neat designs.  But the Singer manual for treadle machines included 
instruction for making lace and embroidering with the straight stitch-
only machines.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
(formerly  Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message -
  We all need to remember that when what we call sewing machines were 
first
  invented, much emphasis was placed on the features for embroidery 
and 
  lace techniques,
 
 Are you certain-sure of that? I come from a long line of 
 taylors/dressmakers (great-grandpa, grandpa, Mother, and myself 
before 
 BL struck) who used sewing machines all the way from the push the 
 wheel by hand, through treadle, to electric. And the sewing machine 
my 
 Mother saw me use here (in 1977) -- which could embroider, make a 
 buttonhole with a single click as well as overcast a seam -- was 
 a _novelty_ to her.

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Re: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-02 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Tamara's thoughts are about domestic sewing machines, and yes domestic 
embroidery machines do only date from mid/late 20 century, BUT 
industrial machines that could make fancy stitches go back a lot 
further.


The Handmachine is recorded as early as 1829.  That's the machine which 
has one 'master' needle, guided by hand, which operates numerous other 
needles on the principals of a pantograph.  The needles have a centre 
eye and pincers each end to hold the needles.  These machines could 
make very convincing copies of whitework embroidery.


Chainstitch (Cornely) machines, based on hand tambouring techniques go 
back to early 19th century.


Industrial lockstich (Schiffli) machines date back to the 1880s and 
were used for embroidery on lawn, net and also dissolvable fabric 
(acetate) to make chemical lace.


Al that info is from a quick scan of Pat Earnshaw's Lace Machines and 
Machine Laces


Brenda

On 2 Jul 2006, at 06:59, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Sewing machines that can do embroidery stitches are relatively new,
although my mother's old (early 1950's) Necchi can do a whole lot of
neat designs.  But the Singer manual for treadle machines included
instruction for making lace and embroidering with the straight 
stitch-

only machines.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
(formerly  Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message -

We all need to remember that when what we call sewing machines were

first

invented, much emphasis was placed on the features for embroidery

and

lace techniques,


Are you certain-sure of that? I come from a long line of
taylors/dressmakers (great-grandpa, grandpa, Mother, and myself

before

BL struck) who used sewing machines all the way from the push the
wheel by hand, through treadle, to electric. And the sewing machine

my

Mother saw me use here (in 1977) -- which could embroider, make a
buttonhole with a single click as well as overcast a seam -- was
a _novelty_ to her.


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[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Brenda
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

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RE: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-02 Thread mary carey

Hi All,

I have a copy of Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery and Lace Work and 
it is the Eighth Edition.  It lists 1922, 1923, 1925, 1931, 1937, 1941, and 
1948 as the years of the other editions.


Subjects include Eyelet Embroidery, Richelieu Embroidery, Fancy Stitches on 
White Goods, Applique on Net, English Lace (Braid Applique), Brussels Lace, 
Teneriffe Wheels, Duchess Lace, Venetian Lace.


The Chapters are arranged into 5 Courses of Study.  I have a treadle 
machine, which I inherited from my husband's late aunt and if I ever have 
spare time I will try some of the Lace and Embroidery it demonstrates.  I 
will certainly make time to read some more of it.


I am interested in the history of the things I do and it was for that that I 
purchased this book when I had the opportunity.  It is just amazing what you 
can do with just a treadle machine.  I am sure that no one fully uses the 
capacity of the machinery they own, I certainly don't.


Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW, Australia



From: Adele Shaak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Adele Shaak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2006 08:43:25 -0700

Tamara wrote:


the early instruction booklets that came with machines.


What's early? And, does anyone know how well those early
combination machines sold? As opposed to the two -- independent
(sewing and embroidery) -- ones?



I think the book referred to was put out by the Singer sewing company. And, 
yes, it does refer to the use of a simple Singer straight-stitch sewing 
machine to do embroidery, not a specialized embroidery machine.


Our local library has a copy of the book - I think it's called Singer 
Instructions For Art Embroidery and Lace Work - and it has been reprinted 
(Dover?). I don't know how early the original book came out, but the one 
I've seen was from the 1920's.


So, how was the embroidery done? As I recall, you position your needle, put 
down the presser foot, and put the needle down through the fabric.


Then you either
(1) leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the work 
around the other way, adjust the stitch length if you don't want a straight 
line of satin stitches but want them to widen or narrow, and take the next 
stitch back, or
(2) raise the presser foot, move the fabric to where you want the next 
stitch to go in, put the presser foot down again, and put the needle down 
into the fabric and bring it back up.


When you've repeated that several thousand times, maintaining even tension 
all the way, you've got yourself a nice piece of embroidery.


The picture on the cover showed complicated curving whitework embroidery 
done in lovely even satin stitch. I can't imagine anyone not employed by 
Singer ever successfully accomplishing that level of work - or spending the 
time to do it - but I think a lot of women bought the book thinking it was 
all going to be very easy. (The Lace Work part of the title referred to 
the fact that after you'd done all your satin stitch you could cut out part 
of the background fabric to make cutwork 'lace'.)


It reminds me of a fad that flowered for six months or so about 25 years 
ago - some sewing machine company hired people to tour around textile shows 
demonstrating how you could do cross stitch with the zig-zag feature on 
their sewing machine. You bought very small diameter double-pointed 
knitting needles. You laid them down on the fabric and zig-zagged over them 
with your machine, one stitch for each stitch on your pattern, then you 
turned the whole thing around and zig-zagged back again to create the other 
side of the cross stitch. Then you changed your thread to the next colour 
and did the whole thing again in the next colour area, and so on.


The whole point was that you could do even cross stitch on non-evenweave 
fabrics. As far as I can tell, the demonstrators were the only people who 
were ever able to do the technique without breaking their sewing machine 
needle on the steel double-pointed needles. I knew people who bought the 
dpns but nobody who tried it more than once. It was tedious and 
frustrating.


Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

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RE: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines

2006-07-02 Thread Angel Skubic
I have an old singer treadle machine. I love it. It needs a new belt
though...the other one just plain got old and dry...

Cearbhael

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of mary carey
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 4:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; lace@arachne.com
Subject: RE: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines


Hi All,

I have a copy of Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery and Lace Work
and 
it is the Eighth Edition.  It lists 1922, 1923, 1925, 1931, 1937, 1941,
and 
1948 as the years of the other editions.

Subjects include Eyelet Embroidery, Richelieu Embroidery, Fancy Stitches
on 
White Goods, Applique on Net, English Lace (Braid Applique), Brussels
Lace, 
Teneriffe Wheels, Duchess Lace, Venetian Lace.

The Chapters are arranged into 5 Courses of Study.  I have a treadle 
machine, which I inherited from my husband's late aunt and if I ever
have 
spare time I will try some of the Lace and Embroidery it demonstrates.
I 
will certainly make time to read some more of it.

I am interested in the history of the things I do and it was for that
that I 
purchased this book when I had the opportunity.  It is just amazing what
you 
can do with just a treadle machine.  I am sure that no one fully uses
the 
capacity of the machinery they own, I certainly don't.

Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW, Australia


From: Adele Shaak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Adele Shaak [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2006 08:43:25 -0700

Tamara wrote:

the early instruction booklets that came with machines.

What's early? And, does anyone know how well those early 
combination machines sold? As opposed to the two -- independent 
(sewing and embroidery) -- ones?


I think the book referred to was put out by the Singer sewing company. 
And,
yes, it does refer to the use of a simple Singer straight-stitch sewing

machine to do embroidery, not a specialized embroidery machine.

Our local library has a copy of the book - I think it's called Singer
Instructions For Art Embroidery and Lace Work - and it has been
reprinted 
(Dover?). I don't know how early the original book came out, but the
one 
I've seen was from the 1920's.

So, how was the embroidery done? As I recall, you position your needle,

put
down the presser foot, and put the needle down through the fabric.

Then you either
(1) leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the 
work
around the other way, adjust the stitch length if you don't want a
straight 
line of satin stitches but want them to widen or narrow, and take the
next 
stitch back, or
(2) raise the presser foot, move the fabric to where you want the next 
stitch to go in, put the presser foot down again, and put the needle
down 
into the fabric and bring it back up.

When you've repeated that several thousand times, maintaining even 
tension
all the way, you've got yourself a nice piece of embroidery.

The picture on the cover showed complicated curving whitework 
embroidery
done in lovely even satin stitch. I can't imagine anyone not employed
by 
Singer ever successfully accomplishing that level of work - or spending
the 
time to do it - but I think a lot of women bought the book thinking it
was 
all going to be very easy. (The Lace Work part of the title referred
to 
the fact that after you'd done all your satin stitch you could cut out
part 
of the background fabric to make cutwork 'lace'.)

It reminds me of a fad that flowered for six months or so about 25 
years
ago - some sewing machine company hired people to tour around textile
shows 
demonstrating how you could do cross stitch with the zig-zag feature on

their sewing machine. You bought very small diameter double-pointed 
knitting needles. You laid them down on the fabric and zig-zagged over
them 
with your machine, one stitch for each stitch on your pattern, then you

turned the whole thing around and zig-zagged back again to create the
other 
side of the cross stitch. Then you changed your thread to the next
colour 
and did the whole thing again in the next colour area, and so on.

The whole point was that you could do even cross stitch on 
non-evenweave
fabrics. As far as I can tell, the demonstrators were the only people
who 
were ever able to do the technique without breaking their sewing
machine 
needle on the steel double-pointed needles. I knew people who bought
the 
dpns but nobody who tried it more than once. It was tedious and 
frustrating.

Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

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