[LUTE] Re: Tuner for android

2020-01-29 Thread Michael Vollbrecht
Airyware Tuner is good...


On Wed, 2020-01-29 at 18:26 +0100, Anthony Hart wrote:
>Can anyone suggest a tuner app. I have used Cleartune on my iPad but
>the reviews for the update are not good.
>Thanks
>Anthony
> 
>--
> 
> 
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[LUTE] Re: Vivaldi Lute Concerto

2019-04-15 Thread Michael Vollbrecht
Hello Edward,
I made a quick tab of that concerto for Ren. Lute; if you still
need it, I can send it to you -once I've found it...

All the Best

Michael Vollbrecht


On Thu, 2019-04-11 at 16:39 +0800, Edward C. Yong wrote:
> Dear Lute Collective,
> 
> Would anyone have the Vivadi Lute Concerto in D major RV 93 in tablature for 
> G tuning?
> 
> Thank you in advance from Singapore!
> 
> Edward C. Yong
> 
> 
> 
> τούτο ηλεκτρονικόν ταχυδρομείον εκ είΦωνου εμεύ επέμφθη.
> Hæ litteræ electronicæ ab iPhono missæ sunt.
> 此電子郵件發送于自吾iPhone。
> This e-mail was sent from my iPhone.
> 
> 
> 
> To get on or off this list see list information at
> http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html





[LUTE] Re: Big Fret Help

2013-07-17 Thread Michael Vollbrecht
Well, you could move down all frets towards the nut - this should give
you room to adjust the neck to whatever is needed from the 2nd fret up.
Then put all frets in place except the first and finish on this first
position.
Best,
Michael

On Tue, 2013-07-16 at 18:08 -0700, sterling price wrote:
Hi-
There was no problem when this lute had just -slightly- smaller frets.
I was hoping there would be some remedy I could do without putting new
frets on as they are quite expensive at this size. I tried loosening a
fret and working it a bit to soften the edge but it wasn't successful.
I might try a few other things though.
As RE the high action of this lute, I have the same plan that I think
Larry K Brown worked from (its the J.J Edlinger 1732 13 course).
Anyway, the neck angle and enormous belly scoop/dish shown on the plan
result in a high action. I realize that this feature need not be
utilized in the copy lute though.
--Sterling
  __
 
From: Michael Vollbrecht mollbre...@gmail.com
To: sterling price spiffys84...@yahoo.com
Cc: lute@cs.dartmouth.edu lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:22 AM
Subject: Re: [LUTE] Big Fret Help
Had the same problem recently, moving from .80 to .95 frets and in my
case the remedy consisted of two things:
First, I had to reform the fingerboard a little bit with a scraper so
as to get it a little bit curved (it was actually curved the wrong way
from the 4th fret up...). This might not be necessary in your case,
just
check with a metal ruler.
Then  you need a VERY smooth round fingerboard edge - if the radious is
too smaall the fret is lifted up from the board: a bit more scraping
and
finishing touch with some sanding did it for me. If your lute neck is
veneered (like mine) however, be careful when rounding the edge - you
can easily work through this thin layer...
In addition to all this, I wrapped the fret gut a couple of times
around
a long needle nose plier, mostly the part for the knot and where the
edgdes would come: this makes the gut much more flexible, the knot is
easier to tie and the gut follows the edge much more smoothly.
Hope this helps!
Michael
On Mon, 2013-07-15 at 15:29 -0700, sterling price wrote:
Hi all--
I recently changed the frets on my baroque lute (after many years
of
service). I went up from 1.10 mm to 1.20 mm on all frets. The
problem I
am having is there are a few frets that are not sitting all the
way
flat under the first course so it has a 'choked' sound on some
notes. I
know this wouldn't happen if the fingerboard was more curved or if
I
used smaller frets(not an option). Any advice on how to get these
big
frets to stay flat would be great. And yes they are very tight.
Thanks,
Sterling

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 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [1]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
 
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 References
 
1. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
 




[LUTE] Re: Big Fret Help

2013-07-16 Thread Michael Vollbrecht

Had the same problem recently, moving from .80 to .95 frets and in my
case the remedy consisted of two things: 

First, I had to reform the fingerboard a little bit with a scraper so
as to get it a little bit curved (it was actually curved the wrong way
from the 4th fret up...). This might not be necessary in your case, just
check with a metal ruler.
Then  you need a VERY smooth round fingerboard edge - if the radious is
too smaall the fret is lifted up from the board: a bit more scraping and
finishing touch with some sanding did it for me. If your lute neck is
veneered (like mine) however, be careful when rounding the edge - you
can easily work through this thin layer...

In addition to all this, I wrapped the fret gut a couple of times around
a long needle nose plier, mostly the part for the knot and where the
edgdes would come: this makes the gut much more flexible, the knot is
easier to tie and the gut follows the edge much more smoothly.

Hope this helps!

Michael

On Mon, 2013-07-15 at 15:29 -0700, sterling price wrote:
Hi all--
I recently changed the frets on my baroque lute (after many years of
service). I went up from 1.10 mm to 1.20 mm on all frets. The problem I
am having is there are a few frets that are not sitting all the way
flat under the first course so it has a 'choked' sound on some notes. I
know this wouldn't happen if the fingerboard was more curved or if I
used smaller frets(not an option). Any advice on how to get these big
frets to stay flat would be great. And yes they are very tight.
Thanks,
Sterling
 
--
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html




[LUTE] Re: How to distinguish carbon from nylon.

2012-11-09 Thread Michael Vollbrecht
A fairly quick way of distinguishing FK from Nylon is holding one end of
the string near a flame and observe how it melts: Ny forms a yellowish
ball end whilst FK only gets to form a mushroom (similar to a mushroom
screw head). Ongoing heat will grow the ball end and lead to dripping
with nylon and the FK mushroom will just carbonise...

Michael

-Original Message-
From: William Brohinsky tiorbin...@gmail.com
To: Lex van Sante lvansa...@gmail.com
Cc: lute mailing list list lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: [LUTE] Re: How to distinguish carbon from nylon.
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 19:01:09 -0400

I am no expert on plastic strings, nor am I a degreed chemical
   engineer. I have had a six-month romp through carbon chemistry at work,
   and can suggest a few things.

   First, Nylon and 'Carbon' strings are both carbon, since carbon is the
   major constituent. Nylon used for strings, identified by Mimmo, is
   Nylon 6,12 (also called Nylon612). It is a long-chain carbon molecule
   which is usually made by breaking a carbon ring and linking the ends to
   other broken carbon rings. The result are very long molecule-scale
   chains which connect to each other to provide good longitudinal
   strength. The particular characteristics of Nylon 612, as noted, are
   flexibility and resistance to moisture.

   carbon strings/fishline is also a long-chain carbon molecule with
   Fluorine atoms bound in. Technically, these strings are Fluorocarbon,
   which gives a clue for why the FK nomenclature. Fluorine is extremely
   reactive, and once bound into a carbon chain, it holds tightly. This
   reduces the ability of the chain to react to or bond to other molecules
   (like water) and makes it very hard to tear the chains apart. The
   result is that fluorocarbon strings have much higher strength, greater
   moisture resistance, are somewhat stiffer, and can be made thinner for
   the same strength. Because they are so non-reactive, Fluorocarbons are
   the darling of the chemical industry, since containers and tubing and
   structures made from such fluorocarbons as Teflon and Delrin can
   withstand attack from all but the most active acids and bases.
   The key interest in FK fishing line is for leaders: The short lengths
   make the stiffness less of a problem and the index of refraction and
   transparency of the material causes it to essentially become invisible
   in water. That makes it harder for fish to see the line, and easier for
   the angler to fool the fish into thinking that that tasty bit of bait
   has no strings attached.

   That suggests that you could tell nylon strings apart from fluorocarbon
   strings by sticking a short length into water and observing how visible
   they remain. While the FK strings may not entirely disappear, they
   should be considerably more transparent than the Nylon in water, where
   the opaqueness and index-mismatch at the surface will make Nylon easy
   to see.

   Having said all this, I will say that I'm glad I am not a chemist.
   (even though I am fascinated with the similarity of molecular shape of
   dyes, stabilizers, micro-biotics, solvents, and polyamides used in
   modern Ink and ink-handling to all those lovely organic carbon
   molecules that keep life percolating: amino acids, enzymes, peptides
   (the organic biologist's term for amides), etc. I will never look at a
   bottle of Benzene the same way again...

   William

   On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 9:11 AM, Lex van Sante [1]lvansa...@gmail.com
   wrote:

 Nylon tends to be a bit more opaque than carbon but this really only
 shows with thicker strings.
 Best advice is: put it on your lute see what note you get with a
 certain tension.
 Compare to other strings of same note and tension and the thinner
 string will be the carbon.
 BTW there seem to be many types of string which are all being traded
 as carbon.
 The KF strings of Savarez are a different kind of string in
 comparison with for instance the PVF strings of Kuerschner which are
 different from the Seagur japanese fishing line which really was the
 first carbon string that hit the market. I remember Toyohiko Satoh
 importing those into Europe in the eighties. Naoki Fugii later sold
 these strings too.
 Anyway all these so called Carbon strings are heavier than Nylon so
 they are thinner for a given note and tension.
 Hope this helps.
 Op 3 nov 2012, om 13:43 heeft Herbert Ward het volgende geschreven:

   
Is is possible to distinguish reliably between carbon and
nylon if the string's packaging is not available?
   
I've seen a knowledgeable person rub the string, but I don't
know whether he was listening to the sound, feeling the
texture, or judging some other aspect.
   
   
   
To get on or off this list see list information at
[2]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. mailto:lvansa...@gmail.com
   2. 

[LUTE] Re: tuning software?

2012-02-10 Thread MICHAEL VOLLBRECHT
Hello to all!

I can highly recommend AP-Tuner:
http://www.aptuner.com/cgi-bin/aptuner/apmain.html

Shareware, runs on windows and under wine.
Can be configuered for any instrument, temperaments, calibrated, stretch
table, transposing...

All the best,
Michael

-Original Message-
From: David Tayler vidan...@sbcglobal.net
To: lute lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: [LUTE] Re: tuning software?
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 00:45:47 -0800 (PST)

This looks kind of cool
   [1]http://www.musicmasterworks.com/tuning_software.html
 __

   From: David Tayler vidan...@sbcglobal.net
   To: lute lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
   Sent: Wed, February 1, 2012 12:42:25 AM
   Subject: [LUTE] Re: tuning software?
   I recommend the horribly named android app GStrings.
   Mulititemperament
 multifunction with many programmable features. OK, it isn't windows,
 sorry.
 Sequoia has a built in tuner but I like the android app. Or a
   dedicated
 strobe.
   __
 From: Ed Durbrow [2]edurb...@sea.plala.or.jp
 To: David van Ooijen [3]davidvanooi...@gmail.com; LuteNet list
 [4]lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
 Sent: Mon, January 30, 2012 7:22:44 PM
 Subject: [LUTE] Re: tuning software?
   The tuner in Logic (OSX) seems pretty good. There is Tuna Pitch,
   app
   and widget, which I just tried and seems to work well, also Mac.
   On Jan 30, 2012, at 1:41 AM, David van Ooijen wrote:
   Does anybody use tuning software for Windows
 and/or Mac, and if so, any feedback on the software used?
   Ed Durbrow
   Saitama, Japan
   [1][1][5]http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
   [2][2][6]http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
   [3][3][7]http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
   --
 References
   1. [4][8]http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
   2. [5][9]http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
   3. [6][10]http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [7][11]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
 --
   References
 1. [12]http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
 2. [13]http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
 3. [14]http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
 4. [15]http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
 5. [16]http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
 6. [17]http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
 7. [18]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. http://www.musicmasterworks.com/tuning_software.html
   2. mailto:edurb...@sea.plala.or.jp
   3. mailto:davidvanooi...@gmail.com
   4. mailto:lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
   5. http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
   6. http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
   7. http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
   8. http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
   9. http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
  10. http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
  11. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html
  12. http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
  13. http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
  14. http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
  15. http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
  16. http://www.musicianspage.com/musicians/9688/
  17. http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
  18. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html