Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
My adafruit logger arrived today. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try this out tonight but sometime in the next few days I hope to give it a try. On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Stephen Adolph wrote: > If I were going to mount this inside the M100, I would > 1) retask the modem port to be directly connected to this > 2) use a patched main rom to allow modem port to run at 19.2 > 3) directly wire it to the battery voltage (after the on/off switch) > > > > On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 11:37 AM Kevin Becker > wrote: > >> This is pretty cool. I think I might have to check it out. It might be >> an excuse to finally get a 3d printer too. >> >> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 10:35 PM, Brian White wrote: >> >>> There's the entire kit for SD2TPDD on an Adalogger 32u4. >>> >>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/N2v6iB45pePNFQNA8 >>> >>> Bam. Couldn't be sweeter. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018, 9:56 PM Brian White wrote: >>> SD2TPDD works without modification on an Adafruit Adalogger 32u4 Your original code not my hacked up version I mean. Even the chip select is already correct out of the box. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2795 This board doesn't have the cpu, ram, or other hardware to do some of the other facy ideas you could do with the Teensy 3.6 like cassette files and rtc, but it's perfect for tpdd-on-a-stick. What's cool about it is: * It runs your code just as it is. * usb programming/charging port built-in. * sd card reader built in. * lithium battery charger circuit and standard battery pack connector built-in, so you can power it from a little lipo battery, connected by a standard plug so it's removabel/replaceable, charges by the same built-in usb port as used to program it. There's an extra led on the board that shows when the battery is charging. Goes out when done charging. With the rs232 module connected and an sd card inserted, it draws about 12.7 ma @ 3.7v That's about 27 hours from a 350mah battery pack which is still pretty tiny battery. And to recharge the battery, just plug in any usb charger to the usb port. You could run off the usb port indefinitely too, with or without a battery. Unlike the Teensy, this board also has * card detect pin. You can use this to detect when a card has been removed/inserted and re-init the card automatically. * extra led near the card reader on it's own pin, aside from the regular arduino pin 13 led. * card reader socket is push-in push-out type. Teensy card reader just holds the card by friction, has to stick out a little to leave something to grab to get back out, and there is no card-detect pin. I'm already doctoring up a version of the code to take more advantage of this board, like using the cardreader led and hopefully getting sleep mode to work and the card detect pin. But it's already a functional tpdd right out of the box. -- bkw On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 4:31 PM c646581 wrote: > I have a project that uses an Arduino Mega to emulate a TPDD. > > https://github.com/TangentDelta/SD2TPDD > > I have plans to eventually sell easy-to-use shields that provide the > RS232 level shifting and SD card interface. > > On Mon, Aug 20, 2018, 16:02 Brian White wrote: > >> A tpdd emulated in low level basic hardware in line with the tpdd >> itself really appeals to me. >> >> I would love to try to make it work on a tinyduino, or maybe a gotek. >> Tinyduino may not seem "basic" being so small and modern, but it's a >> microcontroller not a PC. It doesn't run linux and systemd and bash and >> getty and python and a tcp stack and ssl and X and gnome etc etc etc. >> >> The fact that an entire pc fits in a tiny space and uses no power and >> costs $5 today thanks to the plain advancement over the passage of time, >> is >> sort of beside the point. Sure it's practical, but it's not *elegant*, in >> some intangible abstract mental way. >> >> You could run dlplus or laddie from an init script on an Omega2 and >> stuff the entire thing inside of a db25 connector shell, and probably >> even >> scavenge enough power right from the usb port with charge pumps, and the >> entire thing would be small and cheap and relatively easy to do, since >> it's >> just sticking a few existing things together like legos. Outwardly this >> makes all the sense in the world. But it's just such a brute-force kind >> of >> solution. I'd rather spend all kinds of time and effort to do the same >> thing with a controller in place of the computer. >> >> Though, you can sure get a lot more functionality out of a computer, >> like that virtual modem in mcomm. And the computer is infinitely more >> end-user hackable. It would be neat to
Re: [M100] diy pins
Whoa whoa whoa. No one said anything about poor design choices. All I said was that it's a challenge finding any way to get pcbs into some of these places where dips used to go, using the kinds of parts that are commonly available. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 1:09 PM Stephen Adolph wrote: > May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for my > own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released > it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a > result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and > share an improved design. > > REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the > existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. > > > >> >> - Original Message - >> *From:* Brian White >> *To:* m...@bitchin100.com >> *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM >> *Subject:* [M100] diy pins >> >> Holy cow cool... >> >> One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the >> old devices is simply the physical pins. >> >> Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to >> work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there >> is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a >> pcb with pin headers with shoulders. >> >> We resort to measures like: >> http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM >> >> >>
Re: [M100] diy pins
Also, I didn't say anything about desoldering the option rom socket. In fact I said the opposite. I said imagine a rex in a real carrier just like an original commercial rom instead of needing the castellated edge pins and spacers and extraction ribbon. I did talk about desoldering the main rom, and in the context of saying you don't want to do it. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 1:09 PM Stephen Adolph wrote: > May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for my > own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released > it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a > result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and > share an improved design. > > REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the > existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. > > > >> >> - Original Message - >> *From:* Brian White >> *To:* m...@bitchin100.com >> *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM >> *Subject:* [M100] diy pins >> >> Holy cow cool... >> >> One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the >> old devices is simply the physical pins. >> >> Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to >> work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there >> is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a >> pcb with pin headers with shoulders. >> >> We resort to measures like: >> http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM >> >> >>
Re: [M100] eBay M100 'Archive'?
I don't remember which seller but a couple times I got a cdrom or dvd of manuals, once for a specific manual and once for a collection. In both cases it was the same pdfs already available for free, I just hadn't found them yet. My suggestion, do not give people like this money. They aren't even providing the theoretical "value" of finding stuff for you, since you had to search to find them on ebay, which is no different than searching in google and finding the same stuff in archive.org or classiccmp.org etc. On Wed, Sep 19, 2018, 11:41 AM Kurt McCullum wrote: > No idea but I'm sure if anyone on the list has purchased that DVD they > will chime in. > > Kurt > > On Wed, Sep 19, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Roger Mullins wrote: > > Didn't know if anyone on the list might have already taken the gamble on > it. The lack of an index is a little suspicious. > >
Re: [M100] diy pins
What could be the possible use for a DIP package REX? On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 16:35 Brian White wrote: > Also, I didn't say anything about desoldering the option rom socket. In > fact I said the opposite. I said imagine a rex in a real carrier just like > an original commercial rom instead of needing the castellated edge pins and > spacers and extraction ribbon. > > I did talk about desoldering the main rom, and in the context of saying > you don't want to do it. > > On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 1:09 PM Stephen Adolph wrote: > >> May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for my >> own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released >> it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a >> result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and >> share an improved design. >> >> REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the >> existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. >> >> >> >>> >>> - Original Message - >>> *From:* Brian White >>> *To:* m...@bitchin100.com >>> *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM >>> *Subject:* [M100] diy pins >>> >>> Holy cow cool... >>> >>> One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the >>> old devices is simply the physical pins. >>> >>> Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to >>> work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there >>> is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a >>> pcb with pin headers with shoulders. >>> >>> We resort to measures like: >>> http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM >>> >>> >>>
Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
...yep, reducing ram usage down to 1.7k and everything is happy again... On Fri, Sep 21, 2018 at 12:13 AM Brian White wrote: > I think my problem was simply overfilling the small amount of ram on this > controller. > -- bkw
Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
I think my problem was simply overfilling the small amount of ram on this
controller. I don't get any warning about that from the Arduino IDE at
compile-upload time, but,
* All the example sketches still worked fine, just this one version of my
own sketch caused the problem, same laptop, without even rebooting to
re-init the kernels usb stack or systemd or udev etc. So, that
inconsistent with a hardware or OS issue anywhere in the chain.
* One of the main facets of my most recent changes was I added a whole lot
of debugging output. I think I just used up too much space with
static/literal strings in all those Serial.println("lots of verbose
stuff...")
quoted literals.
The compiler only said board was only 70% used, but maybe the quoted
literals all have to come from some specific chunk of the total space.
I went through and left all my other recent changes, including sleep
behaviour and some sring/array manipulation for dmeLabel() during other
operations, but just #ifdef'd out about half of the debug prints, and it
started working again.
I now have *other* problems, because the stuff I was trying to work on
doesn't actually work yet.
... yeah the web site says it has 32k of flash but only 2k of ram,
meanwhile, the now-running-again version compiles saying:
"
Sketch uses 19260 bytes (67%) of program storage space. Maximum is 28672
bytes.
Global variables use 2318 bytes of dynamic memory.
"
So, I guess it still can't be really working fully with 2318 bytes used out
of 2048! even though at least it gets through setup(), and loop() loops,
and Serial works again.
Aside from reducing ram usage by just removing stuff, I guess I now care
about tricks like the F() macro which compiles static data into flash
rather than ram.
On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 8:12 PM Kevin Becker wrote:
> I’ve got a max232 I was using to talk to the GPIO pins on a raspberry pi
> that I was planning to use with this. I’ll most likely use Linux for the
> programming but I have a few Macs I can use too. No windows though.
>
> On Sep 20, 2018, at 7:12 PM, Brian White wrote:
>
> I'm continuing to hack on it, but now my own current local version isn't
> working any more. I'm *this* close to having the top-right corner of ts-dos
> display the current working dir instead of the static string "SDTPDD". But
> the version currently posted on github still works and does at least have
> the disk activity led and pretty good working sleep so it idles at 3ma, yet
> wakes back up as soon as ts-dos does anything. The al32u4 branch remember
> not master. master is Jimmy's version untouched. That works too, just no
> sleep so it draws more power, and no led activity. Do you have a rs232
> level shifter? you need that too. and you have to bridge dsr & dtr on the
> M100 side (I would also tie in dcd to those on general principle but I
> don't think ts-dos cares, and it doesn't care about rts/cts either. You can
> ignore those and leave them open or short them. Only the M100 needs to see
> the dtr/dsr short, not the arduino, so you do it on the rs232 side of the
> rs232 tranceiver.
>
> The sleeping current draw is pretty dependant on the sd card. If you have
> 10 different sd cards, you'll have 10 different sleep currents.
>
> So far these Adafruit 32u4 boards seem to have alot more delicate boot
> loader than the Teensy. The Teensy just about always works. When I hit the
> reset button, their special programmer pops up and it's practically a
> guarantee that it will program. The adafruit boards keep disappearing from
> the bus and depending on what code is currently loaded in the board, I
> sometimes have to retry programming 50 times to get it to go. I'm on linux
> though not windows so maybe the windows version of everything works better.
> (I've already googled up,the stuff about removing modemmanager and
> installing udev rules to set group perms on the dev nodes etc, but there
> could still be systemd crap going on. Or it could just be the kernel du
> jour. I haven't tried booting back to something like 4.16.x or the distro
> official kernel yet.
>
> So, if you have trouble programming, don't give up. It was a bit finnicky
> to get it working initially, but then once it was working, it was working
> more or less fine for me for a week or more straight. Then just in the last
> day or so something changed. I even got another of the same board just see
> if maybe I fried my original one. (There is a store within driving distance
> that has them right on a peg board, like Radio Shack should have had
> instead of cell phones) The new board behaves exactly the same as soon as I
> flash my current buggy code on it. It seems to depend on the code running
> on the board. Even though the reset button kicks out of your code tonthe
> bootloader, your code still kicks back in after a few seconds, and it seems
> like some code is worse than other about what happens next, whether the
> /dev/ttyACM# device will disappear or stay.
>
> On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 4:49
Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
Using the Arduino IDE the F() macro or equivalent is essential to store text strings otherwise you will run out of RAM fast. The SD-Card Library that is part of the IDE is a memory hog too.It does not work well on the smaller ATMEGA parts with only 2K of memory especially if you want to add lots of other code around it. So, I guess it still can't be really working fully with 2318 bytes used out of 2048! even though at least it gets through setup(), and loop() loops, and Serial works again. Aside from reducing ram usage by just removing stuff, I guess I now care about tricks like the F() macro which compiles static data into flash rather than ram. bkw
Re: [M100] diy pins
That probably does represent the best way to deal with the main rom, go ahead and solder a chip to a module, and just use a programming adapter to re-program. I wanted the replacement rom to be programmable without a special adapter later, so I went the other way, and I was able to desolder the original sockets in a pretty well damage free way on all 3 machines I did that to. Didn't cut the legs or overcook the pcb. I could actually put everything back to stock, even with the original sockets. But I can't recommend desoldering the original sockets as a general rule. The ideal would be if a module could have thin legs that wouldn't deform the original socket, and was shallow enough to have room for a socket on the adapter. On Sep 20, 2018 12:44 PM, "Mike Stein" wrote: Interesting and convenient but at 10 cents apiece I'll stick with the pins from DIP plugs/transition connectors that I've mentioned here several times and that I use to plug into an IC socket; same thickness as IC legs, $.0175 ea. I sent Greg a sample back in June when he was building a batch of adapters but I don't know whether he actually used them; they took so long to arrive that I think he used something else in the meantime. How would these pins allow adding a socket to a main ROM? You'd still have the thickness of two sockets, the (E)EPROM and the circuit board, no? But since you essentially get a free programming adapter with the DIP main ROM adapter on Oshpark I haven't seen the lack of a socket as a real problem. m - Original Message - *From:* Brian White *To:* m...@bitchin100.com *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM *Subject:* [M100] diy pins Holy cow cool... One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the old devices is simply the physical pins. Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb with pin headers with shoulders. We resort to measures like: http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM I don't know how long these things have been around but, but just now is the first time I ever saw them... https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14086 Dang that's a problem solver. For one thing I'm imagining a tweaked version of REX where these are soldered to the top surface pointing straight out parallel with the pcb, and after you remove the jigs you bend the pins down 90 degrees and put the pcb right in to a real molex carrier (or a 3d printed copy, the files for 2 versions are available, and at least one service, Shapeways, can produce prints that work, so it's not limited to my supply of original ones). REX in a proper carrier. Polarity-keyed. No extraction ribbon. No spacer. No risk of mangled socket pins from getting the spacer wrong. No flapping copper flags possibly shorting between pins from the router cutting the castellated half-holes. Same goes for the simpler Figtronix eprom adapter boards. These would also be useful for a main rom adapter that can still have room for both a socket on the adapter and still keep the original socket on the motherboard. And of course the example I mentioned above with the Model 200 ram where there is just no extra vertical space available between the socket and the enclosure door. Biggest problem is... how long will these actually be available? Those edge clip-on dip legs were pretty cool too, but all I can do is look at pictures of obsolete items you can't actually buy any more. Ok I guess you can get them, or something similar again... http://www.solutions-cubed.com/products-page/connector/dip10/ Not sure, maybe you could get that to work for a REX too. The option to solder parallel to the top surface and then bend down really makes a difference though when vertical room is tight. -- bkq
Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
I'm continuing to hack on it, but now my own current local version isn't working any more. I'm *this* close to having the top-right corner of ts-dos display the current working dir instead of the static string "SDTPDD". But the version currently posted on github still works and does at least have the disk activity led and pretty good working sleep so it idles at 3ma, yet wakes back up as soon as ts-dos does anything. The al32u4 branch remember not master. master is Jimmy's version untouched. That works too, just no sleep so it draws more power, and no led activity. Do you have a rs232 level shifter? you need that too. and you have to bridge dsr & dtr on the M100 side (I would also tie in dcd to those on general principle but I don't think ts-dos cares, and it doesn't care about rts/cts either. You can ignore those and leave them open or short them. Only the M100 needs to see the dtr/dsr short, not the arduino, so you do it on the rs232 side of the rs232 tranceiver. The sleeping current draw is pretty dependant on the sd card. If you have 10 different sd cards, you'll have 10 different sleep currents. So far these Adafruit 32u4 boards seem to have alot more delicate boot loader than the Teensy. The Teensy just about always works. When I hit the reset button, their special programmer pops up and it's practically a guarantee that it will program. The adafruit boards keep disappearing from the bus and depending on what code is currently loaded in the board, I sometimes have to retry programming 50 times to get it to go. I'm on linux though not windows so maybe the windows version of everything works better. (I've already googled up,the stuff about removing modemmanager and installing udev rules to set group perms on the dev nodes etc, but there could still be systemd crap going on. Or it could just be the kernel du jour. I haven't tried booting back to something like 4.16.x or the distro official kernel yet. So, if you have trouble programming, don't give up. It was a bit finnicky to get it working initially, but then once it was working, it was working more or less fine for me for a week or more straight. Then just in the last day or so something changed. I even got another of the same board just see if maybe I fried my original one. (There is a store within driving distance that has them right on a peg board, like Radio Shack should have had instead of cell phones) The new board behaves exactly the same as soon as I flash my current buggy code on it. It seems to depend on the code running on the board. Even though the reset button kicks out of your code tonthe bootloader, your code still kicks back in after a few seconds, and it seems like some code is worse than other about what happens next, whether the /dev/ttyACM# device will disappear or stay. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 4:49 PM Kevin Becker wrote: > My adafruit logger arrived today. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try > this out tonight but sometime in the next few days I hope to give it a try. > > > On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Stephen Adolph > wrote: > >> If I were going to mount this inside the M100, I would >> 1) retask the modem port to be directly connected to this >> 2) use a patched main rom to allow modem port to run at 19.2 >> 3) directly wire it to the battery voltage (after the on/off switch) >> >> >> >> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 11:37 AM Kevin Becker >> wrote: >> >>> This is pretty cool. I think I might have to check it out. It might be >>> an excuse to finally get a 3d printer too. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 10:35 PM, Brian White >>> wrote: >>> There's the entire kit for SD2TPDD on an Adalogger 32u4. https://photos.app.goo.gl/N2v6iB45pePNFQNA8 Bam. Couldn't be sweeter. On Sun, Sep 16, 2018, 9:56 PM Brian White wrote: > SD2TPDD works without modification on an Adafruit Adalogger 32u4 > Your original code not my hacked up version I mean. > Even the chip select is already correct out of the box. > https://www.adafruit.com/product/2795 > > This board doesn't have the cpu, ram, or other hardware to do some of > the other facy ideas you could do with the Teensy 3.6 like cassette files > and rtc, but it's perfect for tpdd-on-a-stick. > What's cool about it is: > * It runs your code just as it is. > * usb programming/charging port built-in. > * sd card reader built in. > * lithium battery charger circuit and standard battery pack connector > built-in, so you can power it from a little lipo battery, connected by a > standard plug so it's removabel/replaceable, charges by the same built-in > usb port as used to program it. There's an extra led on the board that > shows when the battery is charging. Goes out when done charging. > > With the rs232 module connected and an sd card inserted, it draws > about 12.7 ma @ 3.7v > That's about 27 hours from a 350mah battery pack which is still pretty > tiny battery.
Re: [M100] diy pins
The proper molex chip carrier is designed to hold a dip. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 5:00 PM Josh Malone wrote: > What could be the possible use for a DIP package REX? > > On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 16:35 Brian White wrote: > >> Also, I didn't say anything about desoldering the option rom socket. In >> fact I said the opposite. I said imagine a rex in a real carrier just like >> an original commercial rom instead of needing the castellated edge pins and >> spacers and extraction ribbon. >> >> I did talk about desoldering the main rom, and in the context of saying >> you don't want to do it. >> >> On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 1:09 PM Stephen Adolph >> wrote: >> >>> May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for >>> my own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released >>> it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a >>> result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and >>> share an improved design. >>> >>> REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the >>> existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. >>> >>> >>> - Original Message - *From:* Brian White *To:* m...@bitchin100.com *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM *Subject:* [M100] diy pins Holy cow cool... One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the old devices is simply the physical pins. Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb with pin headers with shoulders. We resort to measures like: http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM
[M100] program library in WAV format
Team, the files in the Drives tab are up. Jesus R
Re: [M100] New Age Digital Storage Box (NADSBox)
I’ve got a max232 I was using to talk to the GPIO pins on a raspberry pi that I was planning to use with this. I’ll most likely use Linux for the programming but I have a few Macs I can use too. No windows though. On Sep 20, 2018, at 7:12 PM, Brian White wrote: I'm continuing to hack on it, but now my own current local version isn't working any more. I'm *this* close to having the top-right corner of ts-dos display the current working dir instead of the static string "SDTPDD". But the version currently posted on github still works and does at least have the disk activity led and pretty good working sleep so it idles at 3ma, yet wakes back up as soon as ts-dos does anything. The al32u4 branch remember not master. master is Jimmy's version untouched. That works too, just no sleep so it draws more power, and no led activity. Do you have a rs232 level shifter? you need that too. and you have to bridge dsr & dtr on the M100 side (I would also tie in dcd to those on general principle but I don't think ts-dos cares, and it doesn't care about rts/cts either. You can ignore those and leave them open or short them. Only the M100 needs to see the dtr/dsr short, not the arduino, so you do it on the rs232 side of the rs232 tranceiver. The sleeping current draw is pretty dependant on the sd card. If you have 10 different sd cards, you'll have 10 different sleep currents. So far these Adafruit 32u4 boards seem to have alot more delicate boot loader than the Teensy. The Teensy just about always works. When I hit the reset button, their special programmer pops up and it's practically a guarantee that it will program. The adafruit boards keep disappearing from the bus and depending on what code is currently loaded in the board, I sometimes have to retry programming 50 times to get it to go. I'm on linux though not windows so maybe the windows version of everything works better. (I've already googled up,the stuff about removing modemmanager and installing udev rules to set group perms on the dev nodes etc, but there could still be systemd crap going on. Or it could just be the kernel du jour. I haven't tried booting back to something like 4.16.x or the distro official kernel yet. So, if you have trouble programming, don't give up. It was a bit finnicky to get it working initially, but then once it was working, it was working more or less fine for me for a week or more straight. Then just in the last day or so something changed. I even got another of the same board just see if maybe I fried my original one. (There is a store within driving distance that has them right on a peg board, like Radio Shack should have had instead of cell phones) The new board behaves exactly the same as soon as I flash my current buggy code on it. It seems to depend on the code running on the board. Even though the reset button kicks out of your code tonthe bootloader, your code still kicks back in after a few seconds, and it seems like some code is worse than other about what happens next, whether the /dev/ttyACM# device will disappear or stay. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018, 4:49 PM Kevin Becker wrote: > My adafruit logger arrived today. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try > this out tonight but sometime in the next few days I hope to give it a try. > > > On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Stephen Adolph > wrote: > >> If I were going to mount this inside the M100, I would >> 1) retask the modem port to be directly connected to this >> 2) use a patched main rom to allow modem port to run at 19.2 >> 3) directly wire it to the battery voltage (after the on/off switch) >> >> >> >> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 11:37 AM Kevin Becker >> wrote: >> >>> This is pretty cool. I think I might have to check it out. It might be >>> an excuse to finally get a 3d printer too. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 10:35 PM, Brian White >>> wrote: >>> There's the entire kit for SD2TPDD on an Adalogger 32u4. https://photos.app.goo.gl/N2v6iB45pePNFQNA8 Bam. Couldn't be sweeter. On Sun, Sep 16, 2018, 9:56 PM Brian White wrote: > SD2TPDD works without modification on an Adafruit Adalogger 32u4 > Your original code not my hacked up version I mean. > Even the chip select is already correct out of the box. > https://www.adafruit.com/product/2795 > > This board doesn't have the cpu, ram, or other hardware to do some of > the other facy ideas you could do with the Teensy 3.6 like cassette files > and rtc, but it's perfect for tpdd-on-a-stick. > What's cool about it is: > * It runs your code just as it is. > * usb programming/charging port built-in. > * sd card reader built in. > * lithium battery charger circuit and standard battery pack connector > built-in, so you can power it from a little lipo battery, connected by a > standard plug so it's removabel/replaceable, charges by the same built-in > usb port as used to program it. There's an extra led on the board that >
Re: [M100] diy pins
at first i was thinking "okay... what kind of trick is this going to be"... but DAAANG! Those are awesome. I gotta get a bunch! -s On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 8:34 AM Rick Shear wrote: > I saw the SparkFun pins a while ago. It was before I had rekindled my > model T interest and had completely forgotten about them. I think they > would be a neat addition to a variant of the REX board and an actual > carrier. I think if I'm not mistaken the REX as it currently is designed > is too long to fit in a carrier. > > The other pins you linked at solutions cubed I've seen clipped on the edge > of LCD displays but look interesting as possible variant. > > What's funny, I was seriously considering cutting the pins off some old > IC's and putting them on a REX until I found the REX's physical dimensions > are not the same as the plastic portion of the ROM's that ride in the > carriers. > > > On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 3:59 AM Brian White wrote: > >> Holy cow cool... >> >> One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the >> old devices is simply the physical pins. >> >> Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to >> work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there >> is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a >> pcb with pin headers with shoulders. >> >> We resort to measures like: >> http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM >> >> I don't know how long these things have been around but, but just now is >> the first time I ever saw them... >> >> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14086 >> >> Dang that's a problem solver. >> >> For one thing I'm imagining a tweaked version of REX where these are >> soldered to the top surface pointing straight out parallel with the pcb, >> and after you remove the jigs you bend the pins down 90 degrees and put the >> pcb right in to a real molex carrier (or a 3d printed copy, the files for 2 >> versions are available, and at least one service, Shapeways, can produce >> prints that work, so it's not limited to my supply of original ones). >> >> REX in a proper carrier. Polarity-keyed. No extraction ribbon. No spacer. >> No risk of mangled socket pins from getting the spacer wrong. No flapping >> copper flags possibly shorting between pins from the router cutting the >> castellated half-holes. >> >> Same goes for the simpler Figtronix eprom adapter boards. >> >> These would also be useful for a main rom adapter that can still have >> room for both a socket on the adapter and still keep the original socket on >> the motherboard. And of course the example I mentioned above with the Model >> 200 ram where there is just no extra vertical space available between the >> socket and the enclosure door. >> >> Biggest problem is... how long will these actually be available? Those >> edge clip-on dip legs were pretty cool too, but all I can do is look at >> pictures of obsolete items you can't actually buy any more. >> >> Ok I guess you can get them, or something similar again... >> http://www.solutions-cubed.com/products-page/connector/dip10/ >> >> Not sure, maybe you could get that to work for a REX too. >> >> The option to solder parallel to the top surface and then bend down >> really makes a difference though when vertical room is tight. >> >> -- >> bkq >> > -- Scott Lawrence yor...@gmail.com
Re: [M100] diy pins
I saw the SparkFun pins a while ago. It was before I had rekindled my model T interest and had completely forgotten about them. I think they would be a neat addition to a variant of the REX board and an actual carrier. I think if I'm not mistaken the REX as it currently is designed is too long to fit in a carrier. The other pins you linked at solutions cubed I've seen clipped on the edge of LCD displays but look interesting as possible variant. What's funny, I was seriously considering cutting the pins off some old IC's and putting them on a REX until I found the REX's physical dimensions are not the same as the plastic portion of the ROM's that ride in the carriers. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 3:59 AM Brian White wrote: > Holy cow cool... > > One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the > old devices is simply the physical pins. > > Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work > (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is > not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb > with pin headers with shoulders. > > We resort to measures like: > http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM > > I don't know how long these things have been around but, but just now is > the first time I ever saw them... > > https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14086 > > Dang that's a problem solver. > > For one thing I'm imagining a tweaked version of REX where these are > soldered to the top surface pointing straight out parallel with the pcb, > and after you remove the jigs you bend the pins down 90 degrees and put the > pcb right in to a real molex carrier (or a 3d printed copy, the files for 2 > versions are available, and at least one service, Shapeways, can produce > prints that work, so it's not limited to my supply of original ones). > > REX in a proper carrier. Polarity-keyed. No extraction ribbon. No spacer. > No risk of mangled socket pins from getting the spacer wrong. No flapping > copper flags possibly shorting between pins from the router cutting the > castellated half-holes. > > Same goes for the simpler Figtronix eprom adapter boards. > > These would also be useful for a main rom adapter that can still have room > for both a socket on the adapter and still keep the original socket on the > motherboard. And of course the example I mentioned above with the Model 200 > ram where there is just no extra vertical space available between the > socket and the enclosure door. > > Biggest problem is... how long will these actually be available? Those > edge clip-on dip legs were pretty cool too, but all I can do is look at > pictures of obsolete items you can't actually buy any more. > > Ok I guess you can get them, or something similar again... > http://www.solutions-cubed.com/products-page/connector/dip10/ > > Not sure, maybe you could get that to work for a REX too. > > The option to solder parallel to the top surface and then bend down really > makes a difference though when vertical room is tight. > > -- > bkq >
[M100] diy pins
Holy cow cool... One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the old devices is simply the physical pins. Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb with pin headers with shoulders. We resort to measures like: http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM I don't know how long these things have been around but, but just now is the first time I ever saw them... https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14086 Dang that's a problem solver. For one thing I'm imagining a tweaked version of REX where these are soldered to the top surface pointing straight out parallel with the pcb, and after you remove the jigs you bend the pins down 90 degrees and put the pcb right in to a real molex carrier (or a 3d printed copy, the files for 2 versions are available, and at least one service, Shapeways, can produce prints that work, so it's not limited to my supply of original ones). REX in a proper carrier. Polarity-keyed. No extraction ribbon. No spacer. No risk of mangled socket pins from getting the spacer wrong. No flapping copper flags possibly shorting between pins from the router cutting the castellated half-holes. Same goes for the simpler Figtronix eprom adapter boards. These would also be useful for a main rom adapter that can still have room for both a socket on the adapter and still keep the original socket on the motherboard. And of course the example I mentioned above with the Model 200 ram where there is just no extra vertical space available between the socket and the enclosure door. Biggest problem is... how long will these actually be available? Those edge clip-on dip legs were pretty cool too, but all I can do is look at pictures of obsolete items you can't actually buy any more. Ok I guess you can get them, or something similar again... http://www.solutions-cubed.com/products-page/connector/dip10/ Not sure, maybe you could get that to work for a REX too. The option to solder parallel to the top surface and then bend down really makes a difference though when vertical room is tight. -- bkq
Re: [M100] diy pins
I did use your sample Mike. Same as I had purchased off eBay (from China) based on our conversation(s). They are still on eBay under item number: 17115136 A little work to trim the heads off et al, but they fit just fine and do not cause damage to the socket. What I had on hand, round machined male pins, would have damaged the socket. I had both round machined and the square type. Both would've caused damage to the socket. The machined pins would fit the PCB, but leave no room for solder. The square just plan would not fit; e.g. square peg round hole. GregS <>< - Original Message - From: "Mike Stein" To: m...@bitchin100.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 9:45:42 AM Subject: Re: [M100] diy pins Interesting and convenient but at 10 cents apiece I'll stick with the pins from DIP plugs/transition connectors that I've mentioned here several times and that I use to plug into an IC socket; same thickness as IC legs, $.0175 ea. I sent Greg a sample back in June when he was building a batch of adapters but I don't know whether he actually used them; they took so long to arrive that I think he used something else in the meantime. How would these pins allow adding a socket to a main ROM? You'd still have the thickness of two sockets, the (E)EPROM and the circuit board, no? But since you essentially get a free programming adapter with the DIP main ROM adapter on Oshpark I haven't seen the lack of a socket as a real problem. m
Re: [M100] diy pins
I for one was not knocking the REX, it's a fantastic device. I think what Brian was referring to was placing the REX into a molex carrier with these pins wrapped around it like a stock ROM would be instead of spacing with cardboard and a ribbon for removal. I agree that most people would not want to remove the option ROM socket. On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 12:09 PM Stephen Adolph wrote: > May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for my > own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released > it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a > result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and > share an improved design. > > REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the > existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. > > > >> >> - Original Message - >> *From:* Brian White >> *To:* m...@bitchin100.com >> *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM >> *Subject:* [M100] diy pins >> >> Holy cow cool... >> >> One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the >> old devices is simply the physical pins. >> >> Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to >> work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there >> is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a >> pcb with pin headers with shoulders. >> >> We resort to measures like: >> http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM >> >> >>
Re: [M100] diy pins
Interesting and convenient but at 10 cents apiece I'll stick with the pins from DIP plugs/transition connectors that I've mentioned here several times and that I use to plug into an IC socket; same thickness as IC legs, $.0175 ea. I sent Greg a sample back in June when he was building a batch of adapters but I don't know whether he actually used them; they took so long to arrive that I think he used something else in the meantime. How would these pins allow adding a socket to a main ROM? You'd still have the thickness of two sockets, the (E)EPROM and the circuit board, no? But since you essentially get a free programming adapter with the DIP main ROM adapter on Oshpark I haven't seen the lack of a socket as a real problem. m - Original Message - From: Brian White To: m...@bitchin100.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM Subject: [M100] diy pins Holy cow cool... One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the old devices is simply the physical pins. Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb with pin headers with shoulders. We resort to measures like: http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM I don't know how long these things have been around but, but just now is the first time I ever saw them... https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14086 Dang that's a problem solver. For one thing I'm imagining a tweaked version of REX where these are soldered to the top surface pointing straight out parallel with the pcb, and after you remove the jigs you bend the pins down 90 degrees and put the pcb right in to a real molex carrier (or a 3d printed copy, the files for 2 versions are available, and at least one service, Shapeways, can produce prints that work, so it's not limited to my supply of original ones). REX in a proper carrier. Polarity-keyed. No extraction ribbon. No spacer. No risk of mangled socket pins from getting the spacer wrong. No flapping copper flags possibly shorting between pins from the router cutting the castellated half-holes. Same goes for the simpler Figtronix eprom adapter boards. These would also be useful for a main rom adapter that can still have room for both a socket on the adapter and still keep the original socket on the motherboard. And of course the example I mentioned above with the Model 200 ram where there is just no extra vertical space available between the socket and the enclosure door. Biggest problem is... how long will these actually be available? Those edge clip-on dip legs were pretty cool too, but all I can do is look at pictures of obsolete items you can't actually buy any more. Ok I guess you can get them, or something similar again... http://www.solutions-cubed.com/products-page/connector/dip10/ Not sure, maybe you could get that to work for a REX too. The option to solder parallel to the top surface and then bend down really makes a difference though when vertical room is tight. -- bkq
Re: [M100] diy pins
May not be obvious to everyone, but I designed the T200 Ram module for my own purposes, with my own on-hand components, and subsequently released it. Citing it as an example of poor design choices isn't fair as a result. By all means, please put in the work to design build and test and share an improved design. REX is plug and play. I think most people would prefer to plug into the existing MOLEX...without a need to solder in a socket. > > - Original Message - > *From:* Brian White > *To:* m...@bitchin100.com > *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2018 4:59 AM > *Subject:* [M100] diy pins > > Holy cow cool... > > One of the significant challenges developing new devices to put into the > old devices is simply the physical pins. > > Standard common pins, whether square or round, are usually too big to work > (without damage) in most chip sockets, and in several instances there is > not enough vertical space available to remove a normal dip andnput in a pcb > with pin headers with shoulders. > > We resort to measures like: > http://tandy.wiki/Model_200_RAM > > >
