Re: [MBZ] What is a good, non turbo, '81 300D center muffler to buy?

[Marshall Booth]

Theodore Lucas wrote:

Hi gang!
My exhaust seems a bit loud and running out of repairs to address, I am 
inclined to believe the center muffler needs to be retired. A recent 
post on the an exhaust  question suggest the center baffles may be 
eroded away on my muffler.
I checked Rusty's site and there are two center mufflers listed. Bosal 
for $86. and Eberspaecher for $134.00 (OEM).
The rear muffler seem to have been replaced my the PO and appears to be 
very good. The center muffler has some eroded metal on the new front 
pipe connections but not leaking and suggest it was an original or 
replaced many moons ago. Obviously the cheaper muffler looks inviting 
but I am concerned fitting it may run into problems as opposed to the 
OEM muffler. Any feedback welcomed. Thank in advance,

Ted Lucas



Bosal warrants their exhaust parts for the life of the car - and if you 
purchase from an official distributor AND keep the paper work, they will 
warrant it (I've replaced several pieces). The Eberspraecher is original 
equipment quality and slightly superior to Bosal, but the warranty is 
inferior.


I use Bosal for every car they make parts for (most of the exhaust parts 
for my 190D turbo are NOT available from Bosal)


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD slipping out of gear

[Desert Rat]

I think we're talking gas (2nd gear starts) vs. diesel (1st gear starts).

All of the 201's, 126's, 140's and 124's gas models I have owned all
started in 2nd gear unless you manipulated the shift pattern.



On 8/3/05, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> >> It shows pressure ports with typical pressures and lists many modulator
> >> pressure settings. I got tired of having to look all around so I put it all
> >> in one file. If you see any errors or omissions let me know and I'll try to
> >> edit it. I have Acrobat "writer" but I'm not very proficent with it. :^)
> >>
> >> Barry
> >
> > None of my 201s or 124 start in second gear! They have 722.403, 722.413,
> > 722.414 and 722.317 transmissions.
> 
> IIRC (based on Stu Ritter's posts on the old Mercedes list) all 2.6 w201s
> and w124s came from the factory (at least for the first model year) starting
> in second gear. There was either an adjustment procedure, or possibly a very
> small kit required to convert to first gear starts.
> 
> I have driven one w201 2.6 and two w124 260Es and all started in second.
> Bloody annoying thing to do, to a car with such a nice motor.
> 
> Mac
> Aylmer, Quebec
> '60 Mercedes 220s / '82 Mercedes 240d / '81 Mercedes 240d
> '75 Volvo 164e / '88 Volvo 245
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL
1985 380SL

Re: [MBZ] iraqi ride

[redghost]

Maybe, but the need for a new bulletproof windscreen will cost far more 
than the car.  And it does need a little work.


Gas consumption must be bankrupting him

On Wednesday, August 3, 2005, at 03:28 PM, Don wrote:


He should take it as carry-on baggage when he is re-deployed. At least
he'd have some armor around him driving down the road on a patrol.

[Don't get me started ... ]

On 8/3/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/news/08022005_bb_saddamscar.html

flame-throwers?

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA


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--
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane.
-

LT Don
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug)
1972 Honda CB-500K

___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] iraqi ride

[Don]

He should take it as carry-on baggage when he is re-deployed. At least
he'd have some armor around him driving down the road on a patrol.

[Don't get me started ... ] 

On 8/3/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/news/08022005_bb_saddamscar.html
> 
> flame-throwers?
> 
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
> 
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane. 
-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

[MBZ] iraqi ride

[redghost]

http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/news/08022005_bb_saddamscar.html

flame-throwers?

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

[MBZ] He's Dead, Jim

[redghost]

http://makeashorterlink.com/?F5AF23C8B

But the scots are in an uproar about his birthplace

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Don]

I mixed up the recipe given to me by some mirror installer's at my
parents' condo -- spray bottle full of distilled water and one drop of
baby shampoo -- and attacked the 240D's windows.

Magic. And my favorite sort of magic, cheap [I mean inexpensive].
Spray and a cotton towel, absolutely no streaks.

Largest expense was $1.50 for a virgin spray bottle, purchased at work
from the lady who orders our cleaning supplies.

Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[BenzBarn]

Ron Parker?  

Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[72benz250]

That's who is hosting it. I beleive the owner of the data is german star in AZ. 

-- Original message -- 
Registrant:
CF Enterprises
   602 23rd Ave N
   St Petersburg, FL 33704
   US

   Domain Name: BRAINGEARS.COM

   Administrative Contact:
  Fowler, Chuck  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  602 23rd Ave N
  St Petersburg, FL 33704
  US
  727.415.4114


On 8/3/05, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Anyone know any more about this site or who operates it?

I had a look last evening and discovered that some of the info for the 115
model does not appear to be there. Specifically the information about
maintenance. 

Regards

Randy in Winnipeg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:52 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Subject: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line






Hello All,

I found these weblink resources that seem to go beyond the skinnerbox
links:

http://mb.braingears.com 

As Nick Burns says, "you're welcome"

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi


___
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___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net--- Begin Message ---
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--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Well the way that this one works is basicaly a long tube, with fluid in it. one 
end plugs into one vacuum port the other to the second. 

The carburator with the most vacuum will pull it twords it. Adjusting the 
vacuum by throttle plate until it pulls equaly should balance the carb.

Not exactly art but worked very very well on my bike.

-- Original message -- 

There is none. You have to put one in-line so it won't change or affect other 
functions, assuming that they work at all.--- Begin Message ---
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--- End Message ---

[MBZ] blower motor

[Constantine N. Polites]

Here is an update for your files on the blower motor
Constantine


blower motor.doc
Description: MS-Word document

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

There is none. You have to put one in-line so it won't change or affect other 
functions, assuming that they work at all.

Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[Rory]

Registrant:
CF Enterprises
602 23rd Ave N
St Petersburg, FL 33704
US

Domain Name: BRAINGEARS.COM 

Administrative Contact:
Fowler, Chuck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
602 23rd Ave N
St Petersburg, FL 33704
US
727.415.4114

On 8/3/05, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Anyone know any more about this site or who operates it?
> 
> I had a look last evening and discovered that some of the info for the 115
> model does not appear to be there. Specifically the information about
> maintenance.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Randy in Winnipeg
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:52 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I found these weblink resources that seem to go beyond the skinnerbox
> links:
> 
> http://mb.braingears.com
> 
> As Nick Burns says, "you're welcome"
> 
> Dan Elliott
> 82 300D-T 83kmi
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] '85 300D u-joint

[Marshall Booth]

Peter Frederick wrote:
No, you need to replace the driveshaft complete, or send it off to 
someone that can re-center and strake in place a new u-joint.  DO NOT 
replace it yourself, it will shake horribly.  I did one, won't ever do 
another.  There is at least one place who can do them right, but the 
charge $650 (six or seven years ago) for the job.


A used driveshaft is about $100 most places -- pull the front half off 
and check for that tight spot before installing, and return it if it's 
there.


Peter  is spot on about the driveshaft and "U" joint. The two shops I 
know of that rebuild them in the US charge somewhat less than $600 
though (a few years ago it was about $350).


There's Driveline of Portland 800-227-8608

and DSL of Atlanta 404-361-9111

There may be other good shops too, but those two have good reputations.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Loren Faeth]

Now I know where the one that was on my car went!

At 12:09 PM 8/3/2005, you wrote:
my AC had the same problem; compressor wouldn't engage, replaced the klima 
(don't ask where i aquired it from) and everything works fine.

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD slipping out of gear

[Steve MacSween]

someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>> It shows pressure ports with typical pressures and lists many modulator
>> pressure settings. I got tired of having to look all around so I put it all
>> in one file. If you see any errors or omissions let me know and I'll try to
>> edit it. I have Acrobat "writer" but I'm not very proficent with it. :^)
>> 
>> Barry
> 
> None of my 201s or 124 start in second gear! They have 722.403, 722.413,
> 722.414 and 722.317 transmissions.

IIRC (based on Stu Ritter's posts on the old Mercedes list) all 2.6 w201s
and w124s came from the factory (at least for the first model year) starting
in second gear. There was either an adjustment procedure, or possibly a very
small kit required to convert to first gear starts.

I have driven one w201 2.6 and two w124 260Es and all started in second.
Bloody annoying thing to do, to a car with such a nice motor.

Mac
Aylmer, Quebec
'60 Mercedes 220s / '82 Mercedes 240d / '81 Mercedes 240d
'75 Volvo 164e / '88 Volvo 245

Re: [MBZ] Oribinal Prices?

[R A Bennell]

Thanks Marshall

Obviously a reasonable deal since mine is still around 29 years later.

Randy in Winnipeg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:27 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oribinal Prices?


R A Bennell wrote:
> Anyone know what it cost to buy a 1976 300D brand new off the dealer's
lot?
>
> Randy in Winnipeg

In 1975 the East coast sticker price of a W115 300D was about $13,500.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
   Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
 http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm


___
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Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[R A Bennell]

Anyone know any more about this site or who operates it?

I had a look last evening and discovered that some of the info for the 115
model does not appear to be there. Specifically the information about
maintenance.

Regards

Randy in Winnipeg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:52 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line






Hello All,

I found these weblink resources that seem to go beyond the skinnerbox
links:

http://mb.braingears.com

As Nick Burns says, "you're welcome"

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi


___
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Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD slipping out of gear

[Don]

Tick ... tick ... tick ... 

On 7/28/05, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> my CD slips out of gear in 1st and 2nd under a hard load.  


-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane. 
-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD slipping out of gear

[Marshall Booth]

Barry Stark wrote:

I sent my pressure check compilation file to Luther off list (about 1.7Mb).
I have also posted it on Tarek's FTP server if you are interested.

path is: Misc.articles/transmission/transmission manual(722.3)/transmission
oil pressure checks.pdf

It shows pressure ports with typical pressures and lists many modulator
pressure settings. I got tired of having to look all around so I put it all
in one file. If you see any errors or omissions let me know and I'll try to
edit it. I have Acrobat "writer" but I'm not very proficent with it. :^)

Barry


None of my 201s or 124 start in second gear! They have 722.403, 722.413, 
722.414 and 722.317 transmissions.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[andrew strasfogel]

Make that AND

On 8/3/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 000 986 40 71
> 
> All I did was enter "Mercedes-benz" ANS glass cleaner AND part number
> in the google window and WAALA - a part number!
> 
> On 8/3/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >Message: 9
> > >Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:00:58 -0400
> > >From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Subject: Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass
> > >To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> > >
> > >I like the official Mercedes glass cleaner in the little dark blue
> > >squeegie bottle. It smells potent. You wipe it on, let it dry, then
> > >wipe off the white film. It would probably satisfy the anal-retentive
> > >in me, if I were a cleanliness freak.
> >
> > Cool --- part number please!
> >
> >
> > Very respectfully,
> > /s/
> > LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
> > Digest Lurker since 2001
> > '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
> > '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
> > '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
> > Charleston SC
> >
> >
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[andrew strasfogel]

000 986 40 71

All I did was enter "Mercedes-benz" ANS glass cleaner AND part number
in the google window and WAALA - a part number!

On 8/3/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >Message: 9
> >Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:00:58 -0400
> >From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass
> >To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> >I like the official Mercedes glass cleaner in the little dark blue
> >squeegie bottle. It smells potent. You wipe it on, let it dry, then
> >wipe off the white film. It would probably satisfy the anal-retentive
> >in me, if I were a cleanliness freak.
> 
> Cool --- part number please!
> 
> 
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
> Digest Lurker since 2001
> '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
> '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
> '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] diagnosing bad valve stem seals/guide

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Don M.,

I question whether this method will work in a diesel: "To check your valve guides and/or seals find a 
very long hill and drive/coast down under compression, creating a large vacuum draw, at the bottom of the hill apply fuel watch your rear view mirror and if you get a noticeable puff of blue smoke it is seals/guide issue."


Is this procedure recommended for gas engines or specifically for diesel?  
Someone correct me if I'm wrong - does the mechanical fuel injection pump on an 
OM 617 motor stop all delivery of fuel when 'compression braking'?  If it 
doesn't, and some fuel is still being burned, then I expect that the oil 
leaking through bad valve stem seals would also be burned and there would be no 
puff of oil smoke when throttle is applied.



It is rare for well maintained Mercedes diesels to require valve stem 
(or even seals) replacement during their lifetime (and that is often 
400-500kmi).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Hey Dan,

I'm not following. what T junction are you refering to?

-- Original message -- 

No they won't work all that well unless you use a T junction in line. Actually, 
using a vacuum gauge to set this up isn't all that effective as there's far too 
many variables in the system. Late valve timing, late ignition timing, leaking 
valves, low compression etc. all influence vacuum readings. Might be useful as 
far as getting some sort of optimum reading but that would be right at the very 
end of all your adjustments after checking timing with a strobe.--- Begin Message ---
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--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

No they won't work all that well unless you use a T junction in line. Actually, 
using a vacuum gauge to set this up isn't all that effective as there's far too 
many variables in the system. Late valve timing, late ignition timing, leaking 
valves, low compression etc. all influence vacuum readings. Might be useful as 
far as getting some sort of optimum reading but that would be right at the very 
end of all your adjustments after checking timing with a strobe.

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

I stated that incorrectly:

 Once you have the throttle plates seated in their respective bores turn the 
idle speed screws IN  
2 turns, not out 2 turns.  This may be too much and you will need to adjust if 
the engine is clearly running too fast.

You adjust the fast idle speed through the front choke housing cover. Open the 
throttle fully open and you should be able to see the screw poking out of the 
hole. I've seen  where they were bent so you may need to remove the outer cover 
by taking off the 3 small cover nuts. The screw should rest against the fast 
idle cam but not affect hot idle speed. I adjust the choke flap so that there's 
not too much tension but still enough that the choke will close when the engine 
is cold. Set properly, the engine will fast idle at about 1,200 RPM and as you 
touch the throttle it will step down in idle speed as the engine warms up. Once 
at operating temp the fast idle has no effect.
Without the choke working properly the spark plugs will load up and the car 
will start and idle poorly. Once everything is set up and working nicely it 
should start every time and pull strongly right up to cruising speed - hot or 
cold engine.

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Schisler, Gary]

Mais non.  Je ne parle pas francais.  Merci Beacoup, though.  

Besides, you have a problem with attempting to land in the face of a
severe thunderstorm and windshear?  Wimpy aXX pilots!.

;>)

Gary



Gary,

Will you be sending a resume to Air France? My guess is that they
might have at least one opening for a Captain due to early retirement.

Don

___
Fo

[MBZ] Blower motor removal-350SDL

[Constantine N. Polites]

This is an update on an effective method to remove the blower motor from 
the fan.


Tools:
One  8" or larger steel C clamp
One light copper hammer
One 6 x 10 mm socket head screw
A bit of  Kroil
Four  2" x 4" x 8"  wood blocks


Method:
Soak the fan end of the motor spindle with Kroil.  I waited overnight.
A heavy steel or wood table is required.  Place 2 blocks  over each other
on each side of the fan, which will then be suspended.
Open the steel C clamp so the the socket  screw will fit between it and the
metal spindle of the motor and the base of the table.  The socket end 
should be in contact with the clamp.
Slowly...very slowly begin tightening the clamp, stop at each 1/8 of a 
turn and
tap the clamp to send vibrations through the spindle. Wait 5-10 seconds 
each time
to allow the parts to react. Keep up this process and you will suddenly 
hear
a crack. You can then tighten it a bit faster and thereafter use the 
hammer to tap

out the motor.

Constantine

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Hey Dan,

I was just looking at the factory manual again and it has 2 entries for dwell 
on 259/8. The first ons is 41* for a normal coil ignition.

The second is 30-36 for for a transistorized coil ignition. Transistorized coil 
ignition is defined as a blue coil. I have a blue coil.

When will I learn to listen ;)

Thanks

George

-- Original message -- 

If it's an aluminium housing the dwell should be 30 and if it's cast iron it 
should be around 38. 41 is OK if it runs well.   This is a tricky question 
because you seem to have two different systems running on the same car. Dwell 
angle appears to be a function of the distributor model and maybe not the 
system used. As far as I know,  aluminium 6 cylinder distributors and V8's use 
30 degrees if they're running CD ignition.

Dan--- Begin Message ---
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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Don]

Gary,

Will you be sending a resume to Air France? My guess is that they
might have at least one opening for a Captain due to early retirement.

Don

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

If it's an aluminium housing the dwell should be 30 and if it's cast iron it 
should be around 38. 41 is OK if it runs well.   This is a tricky question 
because you seem to have two different systems running on the same car. Dwell 
angle appears to be a function of the distributor model and maybe not the 
system used. As far as I know,  aluminium 6 cylinder distributors and V8's use 
30 degrees if they're running CD ignition.

Dan

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Schisler, Gary]

As long as the moose doesn't do the weed we are ok.  The whacked out
mooses are terrible when Reefer Madness hits them!

 

Gary

 

 

 



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve MacSween
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 1:25 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

 

Oh, dear. Is it "My sister once bit a moose" day?

Mac

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

i like to smoke a couple of joints before i do any glass

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Potter, Tom E]

Yes, the vacuum ports should work fine. Just make sure they are
downstream of the throttle plate.
 

Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 11:20 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


Thanks Tom,
 
So the vacuum ports should work for this? same ones as the ones being
used for advance and the dashpot?
 
Those are the only common ports I see.
 
Thanks
 
George
 

-- Original message -- 

I am not an expert on this, but I don't see why the manometer will not
work on the Zenith carburetors. You just need to connect it to the
proper ports on each carburetor downstream of the venturi. The manometer
measures pressure differential, which varies proportionally with flow
(which the Uni-Syn measures).
 
 
 

Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 8:58 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


Thanks Loren and all who responded.
 
The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100
that had 4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a
percision tool for dialing in carburators.
 
I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.
 
So how does one tune them by ear? 
 
Thanks
 
George
 

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Thanks Dan,

The Haynes manual and the factory manual, 
http://mb.braingears.com/114_115_Disk1/program/Engine/Repair/00-0.pdf , both 
said to use 41 for the dwell, and your last email mentioned 30 was for the 
aluminium distrubutor and you where going to check on the metal 003 distributor.

Thanks for the carb settings. That looks like it's pretty easy to follow. I'll 
try it tonight.

I guess if the idle screw bottoms before it the plate closed then the stop 
screw need to be backed off?

Thanks

George

-- Original message -- 

You still need to set the dwell angle to 30 degrees if you haven't done that 
yet.

As for the carbs; take the linkage off and screw out the idle screws until the 
throttles seat in their bores. Turn each screw out 2 turns and then install the 
linkage until its free off tension or play. Turn the idle screws in until they 
seat lightly and then back them out about 3 turns.

Start the engine and let it come up to operating temp. If the engine won't run 
turn the idle speed higher by a turn or do some basic adjustments until it 
will.  What you want to do is keep all of your adjustments roughly the same on 
each carb. They may run differently even after you have them set perfectly and 
each one may have a slightly different setting while running as well as you can 
get them.

Make sure you have ALL of the ignition set right with low resistance wires. No 
carbon core on anything.

regards,
Dan--- Begin Message ---
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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Steve MacSween]

Oh, dear. Is it "My sister once bit a moose" day?

Mac

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

i like to smoke a couple of joints before i do any glass

Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Laugh all you want, but the only thing I use to clean car windows is Dr.
Bronner's peppermint/hemp-oil soap (available at health food stores).

Re: [MBZ] OT: Honda Catalytic Converter

[Steve MacSween]

someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I've got a friend at work that probably needs to get a new catalytic
converter, but we're a little confused on one issue... McParts stores
sell the converter for about ~$100 (with 'lifetime' warranty no less)
whereas the dealer (and online honda places) charges $600-900.

What gives? There has got to be SOMETHING different in them that there is
a $600 difference!!!

Sure, there ARE generic cats available much more cheaply and possibly one
fits his car. That's the dirty fast answer.

The other answer is that the reference books used by mcparts outlets have an
accuracy rate of about between 6/10 and 8/10, given the headaches my friends
with shops go through every week in ordering parts.

One went through FIVE clutch kits from different suppliers, before he got
the correct one for a 1990 Mazda 626, for example.

Mac 

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Gabriel S.]

i like to smoke a couple of joints before i do any glass

Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Laugh all you want, but the only 
thing I use to clean car windows is Dr. Bronner's peppermint/hemp-oil soap 
(available at health food stores).  It cuts the film on the insides of windows 
really well, doesn't leave streaks, and smells nice too.  I use two buckets, 
one with soap solution, one with clean rinse water, and three old towels.  
Scrub with one towel dipped in the soapy water, rinse with the second towel 
dipped in the clean water, and dry with the third.

Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300D
'01 VW New Beetle TDI

On 8/2/05, J.B. Hebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I have had good luck with 
Stoner Invisible Glass.  It cleans very well, and
seems to leave the glass more resistant to film buildup.  It does not
contain soaps, which are the primary cause of streaking.  I get it at Walmart. 

Good luck.

J.B.

At 11:43 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
>Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car windows? I
>am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior side of 
>the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window. Once
>upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of
>baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while.
>
>
>--
>Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
>I don't even need the drum.
>
>-
>
>LT Don
>1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug)
>1972 Honda CB-500K
>
>___
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
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___
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Gabriel S.
1987 300D
Southern California
230K+





-
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

Re: [MBZ] OT: Honda Catalytic Converter

[Gabriel S.]

are you have the same cat for both? some hondas have a catalic converter that 
is part of the exhaust manifold and some have a seperate one uncer the car

John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I've got a friend at work that probably 
needs to get a new catalytic 
converter, but we're a little confused on one issue... McParts stores 
sell the converter for about ~$100 (with 'lifetime' warranty no less) 
whereas the dealer (and online honda places) charges $600-900.

What gives? There has got to be SOMETHING different in them that there is 
a $600 difference!!!

Cats fail clogged right? If his cat is actually clogged (currently a 
sensor is saying "P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Low") would that possibly 
cause delayed response from the throttle and having to depress the 
pedal further than normal for a given acceleration?

Thanks guys!
John



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Gabriel S.
1987 300D
Southern California
230K+




__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Gabriel S.]

my AC had the same problem; compressor wouldn't engage, replaced the klima 
(don't ask where i aquired it from) and everything works fine.

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:no, mine was bad and I had to buy 
one from another list member, which 
worked excellent btw. In the mean time, you can jumper pins 5 and 7 I 
believe will power up the compressor.

Loren Faeth wrote:

> Roger, 10-4. No relay, just a socket. Got a relay for sale?
> 
> At 09:07 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
> 
>>yes, that is where the KLIMA goes, are you saying there is no relay there?
>>
>>Loren Faeth wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake
>>>master? There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the
>>>main relay box and the brake master. We are trying to get the AC to work,
>>>but there is no power to the AC clutch. There is power at the fuse.
>>>
>>>TIA
>>>
>>>
>>>___
>>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>>>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>>>
>>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>--
>>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
>> 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
>>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>>
>>___
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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Gabriel S.
1987 300D
Southern California
230K+





-
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

You still need to set the dwell angle to 30 degrees if you haven't done that 
yet.

As for the carbs; take the linkage off and screw out the idle screws until the 
throttles seat in their bores. Turn each screw out 2 turns and then install the 
linkage until its free off tension or play. Turn the idle screws in until they 
seat lightly and then back them out about 3 turns.

Start the engine and let it come up to operating temp. If the engine won't run 
turn the idle speed higher by a turn or do some basic adjustments until it 
will.  What you want to do is keep all of your adjustments roughly the same on 
each carb. They may run differently even after you have them set perfectly and 
each one may have a slightly different setting while running as well as you can 
get them.

Make sure you have ALL of the ignition set right with low resistance wires. No 
carbon core on anything.

regards,
Dan

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 200 series Haynes Manual for sale

[Christopher McCann]

I would be very interested if it covers the W115 76
240D...

Christopher

--- Joseph Shaw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> 
> I bought a 200 series manual to try to iron out my
> 250C problems, but sicne 
> I am moving have sold the car and now would like to
> get rid of the manual.  
> It is almost in new condition, and I tried it on
> ebay for $10.00, plus $4.95 
> to pack it well, but if someone on here wants it,
> how about $10.00 and you 
> pay shipping.
> 
> I think it covers all the gas 200 series from
> '68-'72 or something like 
> that.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 208K miles, "Wulf" 
(http://www.pictureblogger.com/My-1985-Mercedes-Benz-300SD)
-1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen 
= Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"




Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Loren Faeth]

Sorry, you are on to it anyhow.  THe vacuum ports you mentioned should work.

Re: [MBZ] R-12

[Steve MacSween]

I can't believe you guys can get it at all. Been pretty much NLA around here
(eastern Canada) for more than a year, more like two. Unless you know about
who stocked up quietly a few years back... but that is for the shop market
only .

Mac

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Is anyone else having trouble getting R-12 all of a sudden? Grainger
> no longer sells it and I've had a 30lb'er on order from NAPA for over
> a week.
> 
> Bob DuPuy
> Hot Sunny Florida
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Hey Dan,

So would removing the carbs and measuring the throtle plates with feeler gauges 
or calipers and adjusting them like so bring it to withing 2 turns?

BTW I just wanted to say thanks for your help on getting the dwell off the 250. 
Once I plugged the meter to the point under the fender like you mentioned I got 
22 instead of 50.

WOOHOO!

Thanks

George

-- Original message -- 

I adjust until they work right. You can tell by how many turns you make on the 
fuel screw. If one is 2 turns more than the other the throttle plate openings 
aren't equal.  I've never used any special tools.
Of course, no one will be inclined to believe this after the wheel bearing 
adjustment berate...--- Begin Message ---
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--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[R A Bennell]

I tend to agree. I have done carb adjustment on a Honda Goldwing with 4
carbs using one of the doodads that looks like a big thermometer with 4
tubes with mercury and the plastic hoses that connect to the intake. There
are little plugs in each intake runner behind the carb. The tool came with
adapters that screwed into these and then one adjusted the carbs to obtain
equal mercury readings. I only ever did it once but it worked well and the
bike ran much smoother after I did it. I don't see why something similar
cannot be done on duel carbs on a car motor. If the fittings aren't already
there, something can be added that should work fine.

Randy in Winnipeg
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Potter, Tom E
  Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 7:42 AM
  To: Mercedes mailing list
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


  I am not an expert on this, but I don't see why the manometer will not
work on the Zenith carburetors. You just need to connect it to the proper
ports on each carburetor downstream of the venturi. The manometer measures
pressure differential, which varies proportionally with flow (which the
Uni-Syn measures).



  Thomas E. Potter
  Telephone: (713) 215-2877
  Fax: (713) 215-2551
  Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 8:58 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


Thanks Loren and all who responded.

The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100
that had 4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a
percision tool for dialing in carburators.

I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.

So how does one tune them by ear?

Thanks

George

[MBZ] Mercedes 200 series Haynes Manual for sale

[Joseph Shaw]

I bought a 200 series manual to try to iron out my 250C problems, but sicne 
I am moving have sold the car and now would like to get rid of the manual.  
It is almost in new condition, and I tried it on ebay for $10.00, plus $4.95 
to pack it well, but if someone on here wants it, how about $10.00 and you 
pay shipping.


I think it covers all the gas 200 series from '68-'72 or something like 
that.


Thanks!

Michael

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Hey Loren,
I'm not sure what you mean by
"If you still have your manometer, you can make an adapter to change it from 
side draft to downdraft."

The way my manometor works is it attaches to the vacuum ports on the carb.

Thanks 

George

-- Original message -- 
If you still have your manometer, you can make an adapter to change it from 
side draft to downdraft.  I am not sure about the bore size vs, the range of 
the manometer, but you could take a stab at it with pvc pipe fitings, and see 
what it does.

you learn to tune by ear by starting with an instrument, then making small 
adjustments and listening carefully for how the engine responds.  It is an art 
form and is learned but seldom taught.  the best way to learn is to dig in and 
start tuning.

Anybody else want to help out?

Generically: (may differ from the book method)
I'd start with the idle mix
Then idle speed
then throttle linkage adjustment
then back barrel adjustment
then choke adjustment
then you usually need to start over to double check/tweak as there are 
interactions

your method may vary.  find what works for you  If you like the book procedure, 
use it.  I admit to being old school, and I have seen some real artists.  I 
have tried to learn from them.  As a result, I only consult the book if I am 
stumped.  And I avoid carbs like the plague.  My brother is an artist with 
hollys.  I am not.



At 08:57 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote:

Thanks Loren and all who responded.
 
The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100 that had 
4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a percision tool for 
dialing in carburators.
 
I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.
 
So how does one tune them by ear? 
 
Thanks
 
George
 

-- Original message -- 

First off, you need to know my perspective.  I am a dieseler, and I despise 
carbs, especially dual zeniths.  From my experience, if you have not synched 
carbs before, a unisynch or similar vacuum gauge is helpful, but not the 
end-all.  It can help you get close, unless you happen to have a brand that is 
really sensitive.  The adapters provided will not work.  You will have to make 
an adapter to fit over the carb that the synch tool will fir over or in the end 
of.  PVC pipe, fittings, and some glue and a hacksaw come to mind.  You want to 
prevent any air leakage between the carb and the synch tool.  THe synch tool 
will get you close, but in my experience, the fine tuning is done by ear.


THe problems with Zeniths is that they can rarely be made to run well at speed, 
and idle well at the right idle speed.  Most of this is from the tops warping.  
The usual compromise is an idle speed that is too fast.  THe older dual solex 
were better, but not great.


I think you could make a synch tool with a necked-down bore above the carb with 
a 1/8 tube out the side to a good vacuum gauge.  I think this would be better 
than the tools sold, because most have only 30-45 degrees of travel.   My 
unisynch was not sensitive enough for most work.  the only thing I can't tell 
you is what the optimal diameter would be to coincide with the range of a 
typical vacuum gauge.  You could study the gas laws and make a pretty good 
estimate.

http://staff.jccc.net/wkoch/Physics%20130/Notes/Fluids/chapter_11_fluids.htm 


Tuning dual carb BMWs, i have not used a synch tool for years.  Just do it by 
ear.


dive in and start tweaking, just realize the weakness of the design you are 
working with.  Perfection might be very costly.




At 04:29 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:



I have one of those.



But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a kind of bowl 
that sits on top.



I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is not the 
highest point. 
-- Original message -- 
> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway. 
> 
> joe 
> 
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" into 
> > their 
> > search window. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks. 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 


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From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 23:40:09 +
Content-Type: Multipart/mixed;
 boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_4844_11230

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Thanks Tom,

So the vacuum ports should work for this? same ones as the ones being used for 
advance and the dashpot?

Those are the only common ports I see.

Thanks

George

-- Original message -- 

I am not an expert on this, but I don't see why the manometer will not work on 
the Zenith carburetors. You just need to connect it to the proper ports on each 
carburetor downstream of the venturi. The manometer measures pressure 
differential, which varies proportionally with flow (which the Uni-Syn 
measures).



Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 8:58 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


Thanks Loren and all who responded.

The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100 that had 
4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a percision tool for 
dialing in carburators.

I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.

So how does one tune them by ear? 

Thanks

George--- Begin Message ---
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[meadedillon]

>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:00:58 -0400
>From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass
>To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>I like the official Mercedes glass cleaner in the little dark blue
>squeegie bottle. It smells potent. You wipe it on, let it dry, then
>wipe off the white film. It would probably satisfy the anal-retentive
>in me, if I were a cleanliness freak.

Cool --- part number please!


Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ELR

[Dave M.]

Hi Peter,

Here's a link to the service manual section - go to page 11 (of 14)
for the procedure:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-1841.pdf

Basically you apply 12v (both positive and negative, one to each pin
on the ELR) for no more than 3 seconds and listen to see if the idle
speed increases. If not, the ELR is bad.

;-)

-Dave M.
Boise, ID

> --
> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 06:03:13 -0400
> From: Peter Arnold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 300SDL  ELR
> 
> I need to trouble shoot this.
> 
> Per Dave M. I need to apply 12V (The Wiring seems fine} and see if
> that increases my idle speed.
> Well excuse me for being electrically challenged, which of the two
> terminals on the ELR should I jump 12V to?  I assume one is ground and
> one needs the voltage.
> My POS manual (on CD) is no help.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> --
> 
> Peter T. Arnold
> Windsor, Connecticut
> U.S.A.

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[BenzBarn]

I adjust until they work right. You can tell by how many turns you make on the 
fuel screw. If one is 2 turns more than the other the throttle plate openings 
aren't equal.  I've never used any special tools.
Of course, no one will be inclined to believe this after the wheel bearing 
adjustment berate...

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Dave M.]

Jay,

Find the AC receiver/drier, located behind/below the driver's side
headlight. Locate the red-colored pressure switch - here's a photo of
what you're looking for:

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/thumb/R105529376ACM.JPG

Disconnect the wires from the switch and short them together with the
key on (or engine running). The electric fans should turn on low speed
when these wires are shorted. This red switch turns the fans on low
when refrigerant pressure reaches 16 bar, and turns them off at 12 bar
(approx 240psi and 180psi).

:-)

HTH,

Dave M.
Boise, ID

> --
> Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 01:25:58 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the
> > A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?
>
> Do you, or anyone, know a the test procedure to determine if the electric
> fans work? I have never seen them run.
> 
> 
> Thank you, Jay
> 95 MB E300D 92K The new baby

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Potter, Tom E]

I am not an expert on this, but I don't see why the manometer will not
work on the Zenith carburetors. You just need to connect it to the
proper ports on each carburetor downstream of the venturi. The manometer
measures pressure differential, which varies proportionally with flow
(which the Uni-Syn measures).
 
 
 

Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 8:58 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs


Thanks Loren and all who responded.
 
The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100
that had 4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a
percision tool for dialing in carburators.
 
I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.
 
So how does one tune them by ear? 
 
Thanks
 
George
 

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Loren Faeth]

If you still have your manometer, you can make an adapter to change it from 
side draft to downdraft.  I am not sure about the bore size vs, the range 
of the manometer, but you could take a stab at it with pvc pipe fitings, 
and see what it does.


you learn to tune by ear by starting with an instrument, then making small 
adjustments and listening carefully for how the engine responds.  It is an 
art form and is learned but seldom taught.  the best way to learn is to dig 
in and start tuning.


Anybody else want to help out?

Generically: (may differ from the book method)
I'd start with the idle mix
Then idle speed
then throttle linkage adjustment
then back barrel adjustment
then choke adjustment
then you usually need to start over to double check/tweak as there are 
interactions


your method may vary.  find what works for you  If you like the book 
procedure, use it.  I admit to being old school, and I have seen some real 
artists.  I have tried to learn from them.  As a result, I only consult the 
book if I am stumped.  And I avoid carbs like the plague.  My brother is an 
artist with hollys.  I am not.




At 08:57 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote:

Thanks Loren and all who responded.

The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100 
that had 4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a 
percision tool for dialing in carburators.


I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.

So how does one tune them by ear?

Thanks

George

-- Original message --
First off, you need to know my perspective.  I am a dieseler, and I 
despise carbs, especially dual zeniths.  From my experience, if you have 
not synched carbs before, a unisynch or similar vacuum gauge is helpful, 
but not the end-all.  It can help you get close, unless you happen to have 
a brand that is really sensitive.  The adapters provided will not 
work.  You will have to make an adapter to fit over the carb that the 
synch tool will fir over or in the end of.  PVC pipe, fittings, and some 
glue and a hacksaw come to mind.  You want to prevent any air leakage 
between the carb and the synch tool.  THe synch tool will get you close, 
but in my experience, the fine tuning is done by ear.


THe problems with Zeniths is that they can rarely be made to run well at 
speed, and idle well at the right idle speed.  Most of this is from the 
tops warping.  The usual compromise is an idle speed that is too 
fast.  THe older dual solex were better, but not great.


I think you could make a synch tool with a necked-down bore above the carb 
with a 1/8 tube out the side to a good vacuum gauge.  I think this would 
be better than the tools sold, because most have only 30-45 degrees of 
travel.   My unisynch was not sensitive enough for most work.  the only 
thing I can't tell you is what the optimal diameter would be to coincide 
with the range of a typical vacuum gauge.  You could study the gas laws 
and make a pretty good estimate.

http://staff.jccc.net/wkoch/Physics%20130/Notes/Fluids/chapter_11_fluids.htm

Tuning dual carb BMWs, i have not used a synch tool for years.  Just do it 
by ear.


dive in and start tweaking, just realize the weakness of the design you 
are working with.  Perfection might be very costly.




At 04:29 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:


I have one of those.

But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a kind 
of bowl that sits on top.


I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is not 
the highest point.

-- Original message --
> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway.
>
> joe
>
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" 
into their

> > search window.
> >
> >
> >
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks.
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

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From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 23:40:09 +
Content-Type: Multipart/mixed;
boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_4844_1123077450_2"

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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[andrew strasfogel]

I like the official Mercedes glass cleaner in the little dark blue
squeegie bottle.  It smells potent.  You wipe it on, let it dry, then
wipe off the white film.  It would probably satisfy the anal-retentive
in me, if I were a cleanliness freak.

On 8/3/05, Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On the outside, I use regular glass cleaner and a razor blade. Hold it
> at an acute angle and stroke back and forth like a mine squegee. Then
> follow up with a little more cleaner and news print.
> 
> Bob DuPuy
> Parrish, FL
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Thanks Loren and all who responded.

The only other carburator tuning I have done was on a Kawasaki KZ-1100 that had 
4 mikumi carburators. I used a manometer for that. That is a percision tool for 
dialing in carburators.

I've been told I can't use them on these carbs.

So how does one tune them by ear? 

Thanks

George

-- Original message -- 
First off, you need to know my perspective.  I am a dieseler, and I despise 
carbs, especially dual zeniths.  From my experience, if you have not synched 
carbs before, a unisynch or similar vacuum gauge is helpful, but not the 
end-all.  It can help you get close, unless you happen to have a brand that is 
really sensitive.  The adapters provided will not work.  You will have to make 
an adapter to fit over the carb that the synch tool will fir over or in the end 
of.  PVC pipe, fittings, and some glue and a hacksaw come to mind.  You want to 
prevent any air leakage between the carb and the synch tool.  THe synch tool 
will get you close, but in my experience, the fine tuning is done by ear.

THe problems with Zeniths is that they can rarely be made to run well at speed, 
and idle well at the right idle speed.  Most of this is from the tops warping.  
The usual compromise is an idle speed that is too fast.  THe older dual solex 
were better, but not great.

I think you could make a synch tool with a necked-down bore above the carb with 
a 1/8 tube out the side to a good vacuum gauge.  I think this would be better 
than the tools sold, because most have only 30-45 degrees of travel.   My 
unisynch was not sensitive enough for most work.  the only thing I can't tell 
you is what the optimal diameter would be to coincide with the range of a 
typical vacuum gauge.  You could study the gas laws and make a pretty good 
estimate.
http://staff.jccc.net/wkoch/Physics%20130/Notes/Fluids/chapter_11_fluids.htm

Tuning dual carb BMWs, i have not used a synch tool for years.  Just do it by 
ear.

dive in and start tweaking, just realize the weakness of the design you are 
working with.  Perfection might be very costly.



At 04:29 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:


I have one of those.
 
But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a kind of bowl 
that sits on top.
 
I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is not the 
highest point. 
-- Original message -- 

> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway. 
> 
> joe 
> 
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" into 
> > their 
> > search window. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks. 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 


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--- End Message ---

Re: [MBZ] Window rail repair report

[andrew strasfogel]

Wow, remind me never to buy a 300SD L!  Why is it such a chore to make
a vital repair like a broken window lift?  I can't think of any repair
to my '83 300TD in 16 years and nearly 200K miles that required
anywhere near this amount of angst.


On 8/2/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My right rear window in my '86 300SDL went down the other day (maybe the
> first time ever)...and stayed down.
> 
> Upon opening the very pristine door panel, there was the broken plastic
> piece that runs along the rail and makes everything work...busted in half!
> 
> Well, the approved repair is to remove the motor/assembly so that you might
> grind off the old part (the steel that's left after the plastic breaks off);
> put the new part on the specialized stand and peen the new part on with a
> hammer...then reassemble the whole thing and then load the window and put
> your door back together (remember!!!pull up, not out)
> 
> The first try was a disaster...I  bought the part, drilled the center of the
> stud, removed the old with grinder, and proceeded to attempt to bang the
> drilled center of the peenable stud in place without disassembling the whole
> deal...the nice parts guy thought maybe you could use an air hammer with a
> sharp point to spread the hole...well...it did work to spread the hole in
> the stud and prevent the part from wandering off...but I also spread all the
> plastic all over the inside of the door!...time for new part.
> 
> So, with a new chunk-o-plastic and steel,  I ground off the most recent
> expensive ($14) part, knocked out the old stud, replaced the part and
> carefully welded the new stud to the moving arm of the assembly...I quickly
> reached in and turned the plastic assembly as the steel cooled, and the work
> was done!...Loaded the window and set about putting my door back together.
> 
> 
> 
> The time saving was not having to remove the entire assembly
> 
> The grinding was done with a high speed air grinder with an aggresive pad
> (3")
> 
> The mig welder was turned way down and only on for two pulls on the
> trigger...space in between...seems reasonable in that to fix it the next
> time, I'd have to gring off the weld instead of the peening.
> 
> I'm very sure my two attempts  took a whole lot less time than the
> prescribed protocol.
> 
> John
> '86 300SDL
> soon to be here from houston '75 450SL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[J.B. Hebert]

On an E300D, locate the coolant temp sensor (on the front of the head 
pointing up) and disconnect the connector.  The fans should immediately go 
to their "high" speed.


J.B.

At 01:25 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote:
In a message dated 8/2/2005 5:54:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the
> A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?

The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine
temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and
off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could
be always off or on.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Do you, or anyone, know a the test procedure to determine if the electric 
fans work? I have never seen them run.





Thank you, Jay
95 MB E300D 92K The new baby
83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin
99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K
Cannondale SR500
Allentown, Pa.
http://www.thecornerstonefamily.org/
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust

[andrew strasfogel]

IMHO Stu Ritter is wrong about SS from Timevalve.  I found the cost of
Timevalve exhaust components  for my 1983 300TD to be quite
competitive, and and they honor their warranty without any hassle.


On 8/2/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Peter Frederick wrote:
> > TimeValve stainless steel is the best choice, particularly if you
> > intend to keep the car any length of time as it will long outlast the
> > body (so will factory replacement, probably!).
> >
> > Avoid aftermarket or muffler shop made ones as you will NOT be happy
> > long -- the OEM is expensive, but it FITS on the first try, and won't
> > affect performance.  After market parts are mot often junk, won't last
> > two years.
> >
> > You definitely have a bad exhaust -- the noise in the back is indeed a
> > muffler with no interior baffles anymore.
> 
> Rare for diesel exhaust systems (even the better known aftermarket ones
> - Bosal, ANSA, Eberspaecher) to need replacement in less than 10 years -
> even in Pgh (where cars often start to rust after 3-4 years) and some
> last MUCH longer. Stainless makes little sense if you don't plan to own
> the car in another 10+ years. Bosal makes an aftermarket exhaust system
> that has a lifetime warranty and they WILL honor the warranty - if you
> keep the paperwork! They replaced a muffler on one of my cars that
> failed prematurely after about 6 -7 years without any question. Factory
> exhaust parts (usually made by Eberspaecher) are a little sturdier than
> Bosal, but have a far inferior warranty.
> 
> I have had NO personal experience with TimeValve, but Stu Ritter (ran a
> shop in Denver for ~30 years, is tech editor for the Star Magazine and
> an expert on older gasoline Mercedes engines) never found the cost of
> stainless exhaust to be a good value. He points out that they DO wear
> out - they just don't rust as soon.
> 
> The noise in the rear is usually the baffles inside coming loose and
> making a racket. That's the exhaust system telling you that, "IT'S TIME!"
> 
> Marshall
> --
>  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
>   Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
> http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

[MBZ] W115 a/c fan give-away

[Christopher McCann]

Off a 76 240D. Anyone can have it for the cost of
shipping. FYI, the polarity may be reversed on the
plug...took it apart and forgot which way it went back
together. (Not why I am getting rid of
it)...evaporator to soon follow, if anyone is
interested.

Thanks,

Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 208K miles, "Wulf" 
(http://www.pictureblogger.com/My-1985-Mercedes-Benz-300SD)
-1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen 
= Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"



__ 
Yahoo! Mail for Mobile 
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail 

[MBZ] R-12

[Bob DuPuy]

Is anyone else having trouble getting R-12 all of a sudden? Grainger
no longer sells it and I've had a 30lb'er on order from NAPA for over
a week.

Bob DuPuy
Hot Sunny Florida

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Don]

And while you are at Beckely Automotive, take advantage of the
opportunity to have your car detailed. Just "good luck" finding it
unless you have detailed turn-by-turn directions.

On 8/3/05, Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  
> Brian: 
> 
>  
> Since you're coming up 35, I can highly recommend Beckley Automotive in Des
> Moines, 243-8185. My indie. Not cheap, but very good. Knows MB Ds very well.
> 
>  

-- 
If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane. 
-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[TimothyPilgrim]

So does Gmail.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 8/2/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes, but Thunderbird is NOT. And Thunderbird blocks images until you
> say to download them.
> 
> On 8/2/05, Rob S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > isn't G-mail web-based?

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Dan Weeks]

Brian:

Since you're coming up 35, I can highly recommend Beckley Automotive 
in Des Moines, 243-8185. My indie. Not cheap, but very good. Knows MB 
Ds very well.


Have a fun trip!

Dan



Brian Chase wrote:

Has anyone ever compiled a list of Klatta-friendly garages on their 
route before embarking on a long road trip? Don't know if there is 
a good way to even do this.


Soon I'll *finally* be bringing my 240D home. The trip will be from 
Tucson to Rochester, Minnesota.


I usually go through NM, TX, then up through, hmm. Well I know the 
half way point is Liberal, KS. And I know I come up I 35 through 
IA. It's been some time since I last made the trip.


Anyway, is there a resource?

Brian
83 240D 121k

_
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http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/





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--
Dan Weeks
Freelance Writing and Photography
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Bob DuPuy]

On the outside, I use regular glass cleaner and a razor blade. Hold it
at an acute angle and stroke back and forth like a mine squegee. Then
follow up with a little more cleaner and news print.

Bob DuPuy
Parrish, FL

[MBZ] 300SDL ELR

[Peter Arnold]

I need to trouble shoot this.  

Per Dave M. I need to apply 12V (The Wiring seems fine} and see if
that increases my idle speed.
Well excuse me for being electrically challenged, which of the two
terminals on the ELR should I jump 12V to?  I assume one is ground and
one needs the voltage.
My POS manual (on CD) is no help.

Regards,

--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Jwtdiesel]

In a message dated 8/2/2005 5:54:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the 
> A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?

The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine 
temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and 
off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could 
be always off or on.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Do you, or anyone, know a the test procedure to determine if the electric 
fans work? I have never seen them run.




Thank you, Jay 
95 MB E300D 92K The new baby
83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin
99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K 
Cannondale SR500
Allentown, Pa.
http://www.thecornerstonefamily.org/

[MBZ] When will they come for these?

[redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88588446.html  --68 200D  Finny  $1400

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88545831.html  --68 108  $3700

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88540172.html  --Diesel 240GL volvo

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88500375.html  --83 300D  $4500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88371689.html  --86 SEC  $5600

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88402930.html  --79 280e


no affiliation

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[Paul Raheb]

Ditto:

Its the least we could do!

Paul
Visalia, CA

On 8/2/05 7:49 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:32:42 -0400
> From: "Alan Duff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?
> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
> 
> I just filed a complaint by filling in the blanks with cut and paste.
> 
> 
> Alan Duff
> Knoxville

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Brian Chase]

Thanks for remembering. No, a couple things got in the way. Wedding (mine), 
death of my dog, searching for job, etc. I am looking forward to the trip 
though. Would like to get some driving in around here before the days of 
salty roads start.


Brian
83 240D 121k


> Soon I'll *finally* be bringing my 240D home. The trip will be from 
Tucson to

> Rochester, Minnesota.

It didn't work out in May I take it?

Best of luck,
John

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


_
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[Tom Hargrave]

In many cases, forcing an established eBay seller to open up a new account
is enough punishment to make him or her fly straight. The new account has no
feedback rating and from experience, feedback ratings drive sales. 

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com


 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:29 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?


Thx for informing us on that Kaleb.
 
There are 2 issues I do see with this though. 
 
1 - Ebay makes money based on the percentage that the item is sold. So we're
asking the thieves to investigate the thieves. 
 
2 - the list of punishments are
*   Listing cancellation 

*   Limits on account privileges 

*   Account suspension 

*   Forfeit of eBay fees on cancelled listings 

*   Loss of PowerSeller status 

*   Referral to Law Enforcement 

Unless the user is "reffered to law envorement" the biggest thing they can
do is susspend the account. In which case he opens another 5.

I did report him but I'm not holding my breath :)

 

-- Original message -- 

> yep, thats the ticket laddy. 
> 
> Alan Duff wrote: 
> 
> > I just filed a complaint by filling in the blanks with cut and paste. 
> > 
> > 
> > Alan Duff 
> > Knoxville 
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
> > To: "Mercedes mailing list" ; "Banned List" 
> > 
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:05 PM 
> > Subject: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >>I did all the hard research work, just go to this link: 
> >> 
>
>>http://cgi1.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=InlineSelfHelpWe
bfor 
>
m&wftype=2012&rcode=IV%25P10092&subject=Shill%20Bidding&bcrumb=Home%20%3E%20
Help 
>
%20%3E%20eBay%20Policies%20%3E%20Rules%20for%20Sellers%20%3E%20Shill%20Biddi
ng 
> >> 
> >>And fill in this info: 
> >> 
> >>item numbers: 4560872270, 4559673911, 7985797946, 4561094449, 
> >>7985839773, 7986410095, 4562103033, 7987073488, 7988099742, 4566177037, 
> >>4566193346 
> >> 
> >>Seller id: jjwproperties 
> >> 
> >>Shill accounts: jjwproperties, whitefrg0h3k, jas_sanderson_ranch , 
> >>jwandersonw, 
> >> 
> >>Of course if you find any other shill accounts, so much the better. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>-- 
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
> >> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 
> >> 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 
> >> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 
> >>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
> >> 
> >>___ 
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> >>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> >>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> >> 
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 
> 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[72benz250]

Thx for informing us on that Kaleb.

There are 2 issues I do see with this though. 

1 - Ebay makes money based on the percentage that the item is sold. So we're 
asking the thieves to investigate the thieves. 

2 - the list of punishments are
Listing cancellation 
Limits on account privileges 
Account suspension 
Forfeit of eBay fees on cancelled listings 
Loss of PowerSeller status 
Referral to Law Enforcement 
Unless the user is "reffered to law envorement" the biggest thing they can do 
is susspend the account. In which case he opens another 5.
I did report him but I'm not holding my breath :)

-- Original message -- 

> yep, thats the ticket laddy. 
> 
> Alan Duff wrote: 
> 
> > I just filed a complaint by filling in the blanks with cut and paste. 
> > 
> > 
> > Alan Duff 
> > Knoxville 
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
> > To: "Mercedes mailing list" ; "Banned List" 
> > 
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:05 PM 
> > Subject: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >>I did all the hard research work, just go to this link: 
> >> 
> >>http://cgi1.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=InlineSelfHelpWebfor
> >> 
> m&wftype=2012&rcode=IV%25P10092&subject=Shill%20Bidding&bcrumb=Home%20%3E%20Help
>  
> %20%3E%20eBay%20Policies%20%3E%20Rules%20for%20Sellers%20%3E%20Shill%20Bidding
>  
> >> 
> >>And fill in this info: 
> >> 
> >>item numbers: 4560872270, 4559673911, 7985797946, 4561094449, 
> >>7985839773, 7986410095, 4562103033, 7987073488, 7988099742, 4566177037, 
> >>4566193346 
> >> 
> >>Seller id: jjwproperties 
> >> 
> >>Shill accounts: jjwproperties, whitefrg0h3k, jas_sanderson_ranch , 
> >>jwandersonw, 
> >> 
> >>Of course if you find any other shill accounts, so much the better. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>-- 
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
> >> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 
> >> 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 
> >> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 
> >>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
> >> 
> >>___ 
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> >>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> >>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> >> 
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 
> 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] Was air cleaner rubber blocks Now motor mount walkthru

[RAH]

I am having the same trouble.
Any advice on replacing the motor mounts ?  A step-by-step description
would be great.

TIA,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi

   

 Read this First 

http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/617/22-211.pdf

This site has a DIY with pics for a 300SD W126. I looked at it when the 
site was free, but now he wants $30 year subscription. It wasn't worth it to me 
back when he started charging, But I looked at the site today to see if it was 
still there and he has added alot more. http://www.pindelski.com/

Check your oilcooler lines, if they are leaking NOW is the time to replace 
them while your Motor Mount is out.


1) Raise front of car (I used ramps)
   
 2) Remove air intake hose between aircleaner and radiator support
   
 3) Unclip fan shroud from radiator, pull shroud up so the tabs on the 
bottom clear the radiator then hang it on the fan as close to 
the engine as possible and away from the radiator. I don't know if you 
can get the shroud all the way out on a w123 or not. The reason for this is 
you don't want the fan hitting the shroud when you jack up the engine!
   
 4)Remove throttle linkage shaft. Look at this pdf. Page 2 is for your 
w123. The picture is bad but there is a diagram with # 's and what   
 to remove and how to do it on the left.http://tinyurl.com/eygy2  
You need to do this so you don't break linkage parts when you 
jackup the engine.
   
5)Crawl under the car and remove the nuts,washers,rubber
 bushings on the bottom of the 2 engine shocks. You will most likely need 
an oddball 7mm open-end wrench to hold the flats on the shock rod. There is 
a pic of the flats in the first pdf.(adjustable wrenches are not thin 
enough, and don't even tell me you are going to use vise-grips)
   
 6) Start on the passenger side and look up thru the hole in the body 
below the motor mount. you might need a flashlight. Use a 8mm 
allen socket and long extension to remove the center bolt.( I made 
sure there was not any dirt or grease in the head of the bolt. didn't 
want to strip that one) Then remove the 2 bolt's that hold the mount to the 
body. (I think they are 6mm allen) The one closest to the firewall 
was easier for me from under the car. The other one from the top.
   
7) With the drivers side mount still bolted down. Get your floor jack   
  and  a block of wood (I used a 6x6 a little over a foot long) put it  
   between the oilpan and jack. I didn't like the Idea of jacking up the
  engine this way,but the oilpan must be extremely tuff it didn't even 
leave a mark on the pan.(If I had a engine hoist I would have used it 
instead) Now slowly,carefully jackup the engine until you can 
remove the mount. Now try the new mount, you will need to 
jackup the engine higher to get it in place. Replace the 2 
outside bolts ( I put anti-seize on these, I plan on keeping my car 
long enough to do this again) Lower the engine carefully(make sure the 
engine shock goes  back in the right spot) back down on the mount. 
Remove  the jack from under the car.
   
 8)Crawl under the car with a flashlight and look up where the center 
bolt goes. Are threads the centerbolt screws into 100% lined up with the 
hole in the mount?(the pindelski site had good pics of this) DO NOT 
ATTEMPT TO START THE CENTER SCREW UNLESS THIS IS 100% LINED UP!! If you 
strip or damage the threads in that housing you are in for more 
work and $. Don't stick a screwdriver up in there either to try and line up 
things, those threads are only aluminum. Now the hard part you need 
to pry, push, horse the engine the way it needs to go to line things up. 
Make sure what ever you pry, push,horse on is substantial and can take 
it! A small porta-power with a duckbill spreader and a light touch 
seemed to work for me. It took me a good half-hour of moving and checking 
before things lined up. When it is lined up and only then put some blue 
loctite on the centerbolt and torque it to spec.

   9) Now do the same for the drivers side. The only difference is I had to 
use a regular L-shaped allen wrench for the 2 outside bolts, and have the 
engine jacked up to reach them. Be safe and put a small block of  wood 
between the mount and engine arm housing. Also the drivers side on 
my car has a tin shield that fits between the mount and the engine arm 
housing. With the shield in the mix it took me closer to an hour to get 
things lined up.

10) Now you can put everything back together. You will notice there are 
little grooves in your fan shroud and radiator at the top where the clips 
are. Tha

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[Don]

Ouch. 

On 8/2/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Alright - how about Lt. Kleb ?
>

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Royce Engler]

Hi Loren,

On my '85 TD, it's in about that location.  It's mounted on a bracket in the
back right corner of the engine compartment.  What you are describing sounds
like the right place.  That's what I've been fighting for the last month or
two.  My indie told me today that the KLIMA in the '85 models is unique to
that year.  '84 and earlier used a standard and relatively inexpensive
relay.  '85 used a relay that has some of the features of the later models,
but is "dumbed down" for the '85 W123.  Of course, '85 was also the last
year for W123, so what you end up with is a KLIMA relay that was only used
for one model year...and the price reflects it.  I just paid $400 for the
relay and some troubleshooting work.  There are aftermarket KLIMA type
relays available, but my indie said they haven't been as reliable as the
OEM.  My car ate several of them during the troubleshooting process.
Fortunately, they were on his nickel.

and OBTW...it does control the A/C clutch...so I think you are on the right
track.

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 9:01 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question


Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake
master?   There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the
main relay box and the brake master.  We are trying to get the AC to work,
but there is no power to the AC clutch.  There is power at the fuse.

TIA


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[OK Don]

Alright - how about Lt. Kleb ?

On 8/2/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> I will keep trying if you don't start calling me Kleb.
> 
> On 8/2/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Keep trying Don, you'll snag one someday!
> >
> >
> > On 8/2/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > You're not "putting it down" due to the ac, are you? If so, GIVE it
> > > to me and I will just roll down the windows and drive it.
> > >
> > >
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA relay needed, 85 300D

[Zeitgeist]

Tom's advice is probably the wisest course to take, but I just happen to 
have a used KLIMA for an '85 300D in unknown condition, if you're still 
interested.

On 8/2/05, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Loren,
> 
> My experience with used KILMA relays is "don't bother, they never last 
> very
> long". I even had several bad ones laying around. I took all of them apart
> and found that in every case, the circuit card was toast under the large
> relay. Apparently, the relay gets pretty hot when the contact resistance
> goes up and it self destructs.
> 
> Buy a new one from Rusty - they really aren't that expensive.
> 
> 
Casey
Biodiesel:
'87 300TD intercooler (206k) 
'84 300D (202k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
Olympia, WA

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[Don]

It is "Coastie" you Squid. 

On 8/2/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The sharks are circling...  Kaleb is watching, waiting...
> 
> (The Coasty's first pass comes up empty)
> 
> Where's the car and how much do you want for it??
> 
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
> Digest Lurker since 2001
> '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
> '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
> '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

[MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[meadedillon]

The sharks are circling...  Kaleb is watching, waiting...

(The Coasty's first pass comes up empty)

Where's the car and how much do you want for it??

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[Don]

I will keep trying if you don't start calling me Kleb. 

On 8/2/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Keep trying Don, you'll snag one someday!
> 
> 
> On 8/2/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You're not "putting it down" due to the ac, are you?  If so, GIVE it
> > to me and I will just roll down the windows and drive it.
> > 
> >

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[OK Don]

Keep trying Don, you'll snag one someday!

On 8/2/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> You're not "putting it down" due to the ac, are you? If so, GIVE it
> to me and I will just roll down the windows and drive it.
> 
> 

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA relay needed, 85 300D

[Tom Hargrave]

Loren,
 
My experience with used KILMA relays is "don't bother, they never last very
long". I even had several bad ones laying around. I took all of them apart
and found that in every case, the circuit card was toast under the large
relay. Apparently, the relay gets pretty hot when the contact resistance
goes up and it self destructs.

Buy a new one from Rusty - they really aren't that expensive.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 9:30 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] KLIMA relay needed, 85 300D

I need a KLIMA relay for an 85 300D  Let me know if you have one and price

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see
www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[Don]

Sounds like a plan. But if you ever get frustrated and are about to
send it to the crusher, please give me a call first.

Re: [MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[stevebailey3373]

Hope to get both of those when I order the shaft tomorrow from Rusty. 

Steve

Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:32:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> OK, here is the quick version of what to do:
>
>GREAT writeup, Kaleb! Yup, that's exactly what I did in changing the
>half-shafts on my 240D/3.0.
>
>Just one minor point:
>
>
>> 14a: Reinstall clip, either with needle nose pliers, or put it in place 
>> and get a flathead screwdriver and whack it back in(1 tap is all it
>> needs)
>>
>>   
>>
>> 22:  Finish tightening the center bolt to the axle which will pull axle 
>> the rest of the way in.
>
>
>The factory manual says to replace both the circlip inside the
>differential and the crush (bend) washer on the outside of the hub.
>
>The Indy I knew well in Austin (Ben's Workshop on Pressler Street) said
>that replacing the circlip wasn't necessary but he did advise replacing
>the washer (115 357 06 75).
>
>
>Craig
>
>
>P.S. stevebailey asked
>
>> Am I on the right track with pulling the differential cover off to
>> remove the C clip? And if so do you remove more than the rear mount and
>> are the nuts for that mount accessable from under the seat?
>
>The bolts that hold the rear differential mount to the body are accessed
>from underneath the car.
>
>___
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

__
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Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...

[Royce Engler]

Nah,  I'll keep fiddling with the a/c.  I'm looking at a swapout on the
engine if I need to though.  Starting to look at options

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:39 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A/C Woes...the saga ends, sort of...


You're not "putting it down" due to the ac, are you?  If so, GIVE it
to me and I will just roll down the windows and drive it.

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[stevebailey3373]

Hey,
  Thans a lot I will report my success back to  you.

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>OK, here is the quick version of what to do:
>
>1: Pop off hubcap etc of side you are working on and loosen center 13mm 
>bolt, and also lug bolts
>
>2: Put jack under the diff and jack car way up in the air
>
>3: Put jackstands under car and let jack down to rest car on jackstands
>
>4: Unbolt 4 mounting bolts for the diff from the body, then lower jack 
>all the way down.
>
>5: Go to the side you are working on from the outside and get a big 
>screwdriver or something you can stick in the wheel to the outside of 
>the axle and give it a couple of wacks with a big hammer to knock it loose
>
>6: Make sure you can remove the top fill plug on the diff cover(big 14mm 
>allen, will need a cheater pipe.
>
>7: (optional) Remove lower drain plug from diff and drain the 
>grease(dont need to, when you remove cover it will drain anyways)
>
>8: remove all the mounting bolts for rear cover.  When they are all out, 
>whack the cover and it will pop off.
>
>9: With transmission in neutral, rotate the back wheels around till you 
>can see the end of the C-clip in the diff
>
>10: When you can see the clip, there will be a little hole in the end. 
>Instrument cluster pull hooks work well to quickly pull the clip out. 
>If you dont have those, a piece of stiff wire, pick, or something like 
>that will work
>
>11: Put jack back under the diff and jack it ALL the way up to the body.
>
>12: At this point, you should be able to pull the outer end out of the 
>hub, if not, whack it a couple more times with the hammer
>
>13: With the outer end free, you should be able to easily pull the whole 
>thing out of the diff easily.  Careful, it can be heavy while laying on 
>your back.
>
>14:  Get the new axle and insert it in the diff, then you can insert the 
>outer part back into the hub.
>
>14a: Reinstall clip, either with needle nose pliers, or put it in place 
>and get a flathead screwdriver and whack it back in(1 tap is all it needs)
>
>15:  You might need to use a few light taps on the metal can part of the 
>outer axle to get it to seat back into the hub.  Doesnt need to be all 
>the way back in at this point
>
>16:  Lower the jack back down and reinstall the rear diff cover, use rtv 
>or whatever for the back cover to seal it
>
>17: If the drain plug is out, reinstall it
>
>18: Open fill plug and fill in grease till it reaches the top of the hole
>
>19:  Jack diff back up and remount to the body
>
>20:  Install outer bolt for the axle to hub.  If axle is not in far 
>enough for the threads on the bolt to catch, tap it in some more.  Just 
>need it in far enough for bolt to catch
>
>21:  Put wheel back on, remove jack stands and lower car.
>
>22:  Finish tightening the center bolt to the axle which will pull axle 
>the rest of the way in.
>
>23: Put hubcap back on and you are done, shouldnt take more than about 1 
>hour if you move slow on your 1st time.
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Kaleb,
>>   Am I on the right track with pulling the differential cover off to remove 
>> the C clip? And if so do you remove more than the rear mount and are the 
>> nuts for that mount accessable from under the seat?
>> 
>> Steve 
>> 1983 240d
>> 
>> "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>>yep, they sure can, or less.
>>>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
>> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
>> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
>> 
>> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>> 
>> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
>> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
>> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>> 
>> ___
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
>
>-- 
>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
>  85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>
>___
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

__
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA relay needed, 85 300D

[Don]

Very dangerous thing to post with Kleb on the list. 

On 8/2/05, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I need a KLIMA relay for an 85 300D  Let me know if you have one and price
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yep, thats the ticket laddy.

Alan Duff wrote:


I just filed a complaint by filling in the blanks with cut and paste.


Alan Duff
Knoxville

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Banned List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:05 PM
Subject: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?




I did all the hard research work, just go to this link:

http://cgi1.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=InlineSelfHelpWebform&wftype=2012&rcode=IV%25P10092&subject=Shill%20Bidding&bcrumb=Home%20%3E%20Help%20%3E%20eBay%20Policies%20%3E%20Rules%20for%20Sellers%20%3E%20Shill%20Bidding

And fill in this info:

item numbers: 4560872270, 4559673911, 7985797946, 4561094449,
7985839773, 7986410095, 4562103033, 7987073488, 7988099742, 4566177037,
4566193346

Seller id: jjwproperties

Shill accounts:  jjwproperties, whitefrg0h3k,  jas_sanderson_ranch ,
jwandersonw,

Of course if you find any other shill accounts, so much the better.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

[MBZ] KLIMA relay needed, 85 300D

[Loren Faeth]

I need a KLIMA relay for an 85 300D  Let me know if you have one and price

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[Alan Duff]

I just filed a complaint by filling in the blanks with cut and paste.


Alan Duff
Knoxville

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Banned List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:05 PM
Subject: [MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?



I did all the hard research work, just go to this link:

http://cgi1.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=InlineSelfHelpWebform&wftype=2012&rcode=IV%25P10092&subject=Shill%20Bidding&bcrumb=Home%20%3E%20Help%20%3E%20eBay%20Policies%20%3E%20Rules%20for%20Sellers%20%3E%20Shill%20Bidding

And fill in this info:

item numbers: 4560872270, 4559673911, 7985797946, 4561094449,
7985839773, 7986410095, 4562103033, 7987073488, 7988099742, 4566177037,
4566193346

Seller id: jjwproperties

Shill accounts:  jjwproperties, whitefrg0h3k,  jas_sanderson_ranch ,
jwandersonw,

Of course if you find any other shill accounts, so much the better.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:32:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> OK, here is the quick version of what to do:

GREAT writeup, Kaleb! Yup, that's exactly what I did in changing the
half-shafts on my 240D/3.0.

Just one minor point:


> 14a: Reinstall clip, either with needle nose pliers, or put it in place 
> and get a flathead screwdriver and whack it back in(1 tap is all it
> needs)
>
>   
>
> 22:  Finish tightening the center bolt to the axle which will pull axle 
> the rest of the way in.


The factory manual says to replace both the circlip inside the
differential and the crush (bend) washer on the outside of the hub.

The Indy I knew well in Austin (Ben's Workshop on Pressler Street) said
that replacing the circlip wasn't necessary but he did advise replacing
the washer (115 357 06 75).


Craig


P.S. stevebailey asked

> Am I on the right track with pulling the differential cover off to
> remove the C clip? And if so do you remove more than the rear mount and
> are the nuts for that mount accessable from under the seat?

The bolts that hold the rear differential mount to the body are accessed
from underneath the car.

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

no, mine was bad and I had to buy one from another list member, which 
worked excellent btw.  In the mean time, you can jumper pins 5 and 7 I 
believe will power up the compressor.


Loren Faeth wrote:


Roger, 10-4.  No relay, just a socket.  Got a relay for sale?

At 09:07 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:


yes, that is where the KLIMA goes, are you saying there is no relay there?

Loren Faeth wrote:



Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake
master?   There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the
main relay box and the brake master.  We are trying to get the AC to work,
but there is no power to the AC clutch.  There is power at the fuse.

TIA


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Loren Faeth]

Roger, 10-4.  No relay, just a socket.  Got a relay for sale?

At 09:07 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:

yes, that is where the KLIMA goes, are you saying there is no relay there?

Loren Faeth wrote:

> Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake
> master?   There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the
> main relay box and the brake master.  We are trying to get the AC to work,
> but there is no power to the AC clutch.  There is power at the fuse.
>
> TIA
>
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

if you call me back RIGHT NOW, I will be here.  Im sure what you want 
though, if its about removing something from the archives, I dont think 
I can do that(not that I woudlnt, just I cant).


Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 12:13:27 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:





On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


wrote: >


Craig 
In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.


Don wrote:



The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
the road.


the archives are active



OK, Guys (and Gal), I need some help fixing this stupid mistake.

Kaleb, I've been trying to call you, but all I get is an answering
machine.


Craig

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 12:13:27 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> 

> > On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> >>On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >wrote: >
> >>
> >>>Craig 
> >>>In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.
>
> Don wrote:
> 
> > The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
> > of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
> > are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
> > the road.
>
> the archives are active

OK, Guys (and Gal), I need some help fixing this stupid mistake.

Kaleb, I've been trying to call you, but all I get is an answering
machine.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yes, that is where the KLIMA goes, are you saying there is no relay there?

Loren Faeth wrote:

Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake 
master?   There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the 
main relay box and the brake master.  We are trying to get the AC to work, 
but there is no power to the AC clutch.  There is power at the fuse.


TIA


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

[MBZ] anybody want to have fun with this shiller?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I did all the hard research work, just go to this link:

http://cgi1.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=InlineSelfHelpWebform&wftype=2012&rcode=IV%25P10092&subject=Shill%20Bidding&bcrumb=Home%20%3E%20Help%20%3E%20eBay%20Policies%20%3E%20Rules%20for%20Sellers%20%3E%20Shill%20Bidding

And fill in this info:

item numbers: 4560872270, 4559673911, 7985797946, 4561094449, 
7985839773, 7986410095, 4562103033, 7987073488, 7988099742, 4566177037, 
4566193346


Seller id: jjwproperties

Shill accounts:  jjwproperties, whitefrg0h3k,  jas_sanderson_ranch , 
jwandersonw,


Of course if you find any other shill accounts, so much the better.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap

[degcoast]

My solution was to buy a new rubber gasket from Rusty for a dollar or so and 
to clean the original  metal cap(the new ones are plastic) and replace it. 
That stopped all leaks.

Dwight Giles
1979 240D auto 244k + miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:00 AM
Subject: [MBZ] leaking oil cap







I have seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring insert
replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking out of the 
top

of the motor through the oil cap ?

TIA,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

[MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question

[Loren Faeth]

Is the KLIMA relay on an 85 300D in a separate box near the brake 
master?   There is a relay box with an open socket positioned between the 
main relay box and the brake master.  We are trying to get the AC to work, 
but there is no power to the AC clutch.  There is power at the fuse.


TIA

Re: [MBZ] this guy really shills alot

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, Im right in the middle of reporting his ass.  Wonder what will 
become of this.


Desert Rat wrote:


Yeah, not too obvious! Whitefrog or whatever bids on everything and he
is in Oklahoma City as well. DUH.

On 8/2/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&since=30&userid=jjwproperties&include=0&rows=200&sort=3&completed=1

That is stuff he sold lately, here is a car he has going right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-1986-MERCEDES-BENZ-420SEL-Sedan-4-DR_W0QQitemZ4566177037QQcategoryZ6335QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

One of the shills bidding on this guys stuff won a car I was selling and
didnt pay

Geez
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net







--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts