Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's

[Bob Rentfro]

If you're going to take them apart, do it inside a ziplock bag so, if the 
parts and pieces jetteson from the housing, they are contained. Be careful 
taking the switch out/prying up the fakeola chrome trim...it breaks easily 
after having been in our cars in AZ.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park, AZ

- Original Message - 
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's



I always disassemble them and spray liberally with contact cleaner.  Seems
to hold up for 30,000 miles or so like that.

On 5/11/06, Marshall Field <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more
service life out of these switches.   I live in Arizona, where you
typically
have the windows rolled up the majority of the year.   Yet, every 16
months,
for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a 
new

switch.

Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the
switch literally flies apart into your hand  on one of the next cycles.

At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there 
should

be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some
more service life out of these switches.

Anyone have some suggestions?

Marshall in Feenix   '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia)
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Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's

[Sunil Hari]

I always disassemble them and spray liberally with contact cleaner.  Seems
to hold up for 30,000 miles or so like that.

On 5/11/06, Marshall Field <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more
service life out of these switches.   I live in Arizona, where you
typically
have the windows rolled up the majority of the year.   Yet, every 16
months,
for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a new
switch.

Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the
switch literally flies apart into your hand  on one of the next cycles.

At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there should
be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some
more service life out of these switches.

Anyone have some suggestions?

Marshall in Feenix   '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia)
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

[MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's

[Marshall Field]

I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more
service life out of these switches.   I live in Arizona, where you typically
have the windows rolled up the majority of the year.   Yet, every 16 months,
for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a new
switch.

Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the
switch literally flies apart into your hand  on one of the next cycles.

At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there should
be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some
more service life out of these switches.

Anyone have some suggestions?

Marshall in Feenix   '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia)

Re: [MBZ] I am on crank

[Bob Rentfro]

Kaleb typed:

"I am on crank"

Good thing this wasn't on "Banned"...

Bob Rentfro

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[David Brodbeck]

Loren Faeth wrote:
What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the 
trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can.  It takes a 
while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't 
not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space.
  


Last time I had to do a VW transmission, I used a length of clear tubing 
from the hardware store, with a funnel jammed in the end.  I snaked it 
out from under the car to where I could stand, holding the end, and let 
gravity feed the fluid in.  If you're smart, you'll heat the bottles of 
oil first in a warm water bath so it will flow better.  I wasn't that 
smart and ended up standing around all afternoon watching it.  This was 
SAE 90 gear oil, which is the consistency of honey when cold.

[MBZ] I am on crank

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installed 
on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again.  I ended up using a 
steering wheel puller for GM cars on it.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Sunil Hari]

What's the access port on top of the diff?  14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm
socket, what?

And what's this "pump oil can" Loren mentioned?  I had to use a length of
heater hose  and it sucked.

On 5/11/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the
trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can.  It takes a
while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't
not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space.

At 05:10 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
> > you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can
cause
> > front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear,
> > yes,
> > do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
> > ...
> > Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain
> > AND suck
> > for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not
> > enough?
>
>It's all about level.  If it's level, it ought to fully drain and you
>won't overfill.  If you just jack the ass of the car up for access, then
>all might not drain out, and you could overfill a bit.  If you need to
>jack it for access, run the front up on ramps first.  (Or jack up both
>ends, but I find 50% rampage easier.)
>
>I used the sucker on the 240D, but that's because it was full of
>black glop with the texture of runny mashed potatoes.  It wouldn't
>actually drain much by itself.
>
>-- Jim
>
>
>___
>http://www.striplin.net
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Loren Faeth]

What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the 
trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can.  It takes a 
while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't 
not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space.


At 05:10 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote:

> you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
> front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear,
> yes,
> do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
> ...
> Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain
> AND suck
> for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not
> enough?

It's all about level.  If it's level, it ought to fully drain and you
won't overfill.  If you just jack the ass of the car up for access, then
all might not drain out, and you could overfill a bit.  If you need to
jack it for access, run the front up on ramps first.  (Or jack up both
ends, but I find 50% rampage easier.)

I used the sucker on the 240D, but that's because it was full of
black glop with the texture of runny mashed potatoes.  It wouldn't
actually drain much by itself.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Jim Cathey]

Marshall - overflow hole???  There's one of those?  And how do you 
check if

it's clogged?  How do you unclog it?


There is a vent on the top of the differential, and it can get clogged.
They just unscrew, you can then clean them out.  Make sure you clean off
the top of the differential first so crud doesn't drop into the open
hole.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Jim Cathey]

you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, 
yes,

do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
...
Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain 
AND suck
for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not 
enough?


It's all about level.  If it's level, it ought to fully drain and you
won't overfill.  If you just jack the ass of the car up for access, then
all might not drain out, and you could overfill a bit.  If you need to
jack it for access, run the front up on ramps first.  (Or jack up both
ends, but I find 50% rampage easier.)

I used the sucker on the 240D, but that's because it was full of
black glop with the texture of runny mashed potatoes.  It wouldn't
actually drain much by itself.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Zoltan Finks]

Good thinking. Prolly should keep in mind that there may still be a small
amt. left in there that didn't drain out.

Brian


On 5/11/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


One way to find out would be to fill to the point where the fluid runs out
while the vehicle is on its wheels and
then check to see how much fluid was actually poured in. The compare
volume with what MB says should be in there.
Best guess is that it will be about the same amount but if you really want
to know it will not be that tough to
check.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


I'm thinkin' if the car is on a level surface, there is no way you can
overfill because it will start running out the fill hole.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park,  AZ


- Original Message -
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


> Great help, all. But  I think something conflicts here: I've heard that
> no,
> you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
> front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear,
yes,
> do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
>
> In the case of being advised against filling high enough to leak out the
> fill hole, then the question becomes, how high DO I fill it?
>
> Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND
> suck
> for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough?
>
> Brian
> 83 230D
>
>
> On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
>> been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
>> after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
>> bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
>> leak out the top hole and button up.
>>
>> On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
>>
>> > Gotta ask too:
>> >
>> > On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
>> > pulling
>> > the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around;
and
>> > when
>> > filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
>> > hole?
>> > This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am
just
>> > making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>> >
>> > Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill
procedure?
>> >
>> > AND
>> >
>> > How often should this oil be changed?
>> >
>> > Brian
>> > 83 240D
>> > ___
>> > http://www.striplin.net
>> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Clay
>> Seattle Bioburner
>>
>> 1972 220D - Gump
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo
>> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
>> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


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Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[R A Bennell]

One way to find out would be to fill to the point where the fluid runs out 
while the vehicle is on its wheels and
then check to see how much fluid was actually poured in. The compare volume 
with what MB says should be in there.
Best guess is that it will be about the same amount but if you really want to 
know it will not be that tough to
check.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


I'm thinkin' if the car is on a level surface, there is no way you can
overfill because it will start running out the fill hole.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park,  AZ


- Original Message -
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


> Great help, all. But  I think something conflicts here: I've heard that
> no,
> you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
> front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes,
> do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
>
> In the case of being advised against filling high enough to leak out the
> fill hole, then the question becomes, how high DO I fill it?
>
> Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND
> suck
> for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough?
>
> Brian
> 83 230D
>
>
> On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
>> been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
>> after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
>> bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
>> leak out the top hole and button up.
>>
>> On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
>>
>> > Gotta ask too:
>> >
>> > On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
>> > pulling
>> > the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
>> > when
>> > filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
>> > hole?
>> > This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
>> > making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>> >
>> > Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?
>> >
>> > AND
>> >
>> > How often should this oil be changed?
>> >
>> > Brian
>> > 83 240D
>> > ___
>> > http://www.striplin.net
>> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Clay
>> Seattle Bioburner
>>
>> 1972 220D - Gump
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo
>> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
>> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


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Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Sunil Hari]

Here's what I've done with three MBs - fill till it's flowing out the top,
wait for it to stop flowing out the fill hole, replace plug.  Make sure
you're on a level surface with all four wheels on the ground.

If you're not using some sort of hose to fill it (meaning you're squirting
the oil directly from the bottle into the diff), waiting for it to stop
leaking out the top shouldn't take more than a minute.  If you're like me
and use a hose, you'll wait longer.


On 5/11/06, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I'm thinkin' if the car is on a level surface, there is no way you can
overfill because it will start running out the fill hole.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park,  AZ


- Original Message -
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


> Great help, all. But  I think something conflicts here: I've heard that
> no,
> you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
> front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear,
yes,
> do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
>
> In the case of being advised against filling high enough to leak out the
> fill hole, then the question becomes, how high DO I fill it?
>
> Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND
> suck
> for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough?
>
> Brian
> 83 230D
>
>
> On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
>> been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
>> after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
>> bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
>> leak out the top hole and button up.
>>
>> On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
>>
>> > Gotta ask too:
>> >
>> > On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
>> > pulling
>> > the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around;
and
>> > when
>> > filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
>> > hole?
>> > This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am
just
>> > making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>> >
>> > Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill
procedure?
>> >
>> > AND
>> >
>> > How often should this oil be changed?
>> >
>> > Brian
>> > 83 240D
>> > ___
>> > http://www.striplin.net
>> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Clay
>> Seattle Bioburner
>>
>> 1972 220D - Gump
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo
>> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
>> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[R A Bennell]

I read somewhere (TimeMag??) recently that rural China is essentially run on 
that basis. All waste is recycled via
a rudimentary bio-digester - composter type setups. The waste produces methane 
used for heating and cooking
purposes. A more civilized version could reduce the need for oil / gas in a big 
way. An interesting idea whose time
may well come in America. One would think it would also reduce groundwater 
pollution in the sense that there would
then be less need to treat sewage to prevent groundwater contamination etc. We 
should all encourage Jim Cathey to
get working on that - free fuel to power his generators.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of redghost
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?


That would be a wonderful method for localized power generation.  Just
make methane digesters for large buildings.  Sweep the poop off the
road and into the furnace.  Natural gas and composting heat.

On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:27 PM, R A Bennell wrote:

> And from the byproducts, one can create methane to heat the house! You
> may recall that the automobile with its
> internal combustion engine was once hailed as the saviour of mankind
> because it was going to do away with the then
> version of pollution. You can imagine the volume in a place the size
> of New York City or Chicago. You can also
> imagine what it must have been like during rainy weather and also
> during real dry weather if it happened to be a
> bit windy. I wonder what California would have done in that regard?
>
> Randy B
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:13 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?
>
>
> Oats and hay...  the fuel of the future!
>
> On 5/11/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Rich Thomas wrote:
>>> It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
>>>
>>
>> It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
>> original intent. ;)
>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>> Jeff Zedic wrote:
>>>
>>>
 I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!




>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.striplin.net
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Bob Rentfro]

I'm thinkin' if the car is on a level surface, there is no way you can 
overfill because it will start running out the fill hole.



Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park,  AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


Great help, all. But  I think something conflicts here: I've heard that 
no,

you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes,
do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.

In the case of being advised against filling high enough to leak out the
fill hole, then the question becomes, how high DO I fill it?

Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND 
suck

for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough?

Brian
83 230D


On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
leak out the top hole and button up.

On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> Gotta ask too:
>
> On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
> pulling
> the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
> when
> filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
> hole?
> This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
> making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>
> Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?
>
> AND
>
> How often should this oil be changed?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
> ___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] VIN check please

[Bruce Lulfs]

We are open to WVO but I can not seem to get the guys in my area to do much
of anything!

Bruce & Sandy

Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea 
Our Home Web site
http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 12:53 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] VIN check please

Do you guys talk about WVO too?

Brian


On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> WDBAB33A4EA040053
>
> Bruce & Sandy
>
> Our Biodiesel site
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea
> Our Home Web site
> http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/
>
>
>
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[MBZ] Decent 87 300D at charity auction

[Rich Thomas]

http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=13472&vType=1

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Zoltan Finks]

Great help, all. But  I think something conflicts here: I've heard that no,
you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes,
do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.

In the case of being advised against filling high enough to leak out the
fill hole, then the question becomes, how high DO I fill it?

Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND suck
for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough?

Brian
83 230D


On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
leak out the top hole and button up.

On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> Gotta ask too:
>
> On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
> pulling
> the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
> when
> filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
> hole?
> This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
> making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>
> Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?
>
> AND
>
> How often should this oil be changed?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] PArts

[Bob Rentfro]

I'm sure one the St. Louis guys will see your post and get back with you 
with good information.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Ben Maggos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 12:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] PArts



Hello,

   It is Ben Maggos from St. Louis. Can you call me and well talk 
about the best way for me to get a hood, grill, and transmission for my 
1986 MErcedes 300 SDL. OR email me your number and I'll call you. My 
number is 314-898-2404. I live in the 63116 area code.


 Ben


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Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[redghost]

That would be a wonderful method for localized power generation.  Just 
make methane digesters for large buildings.  Sweep the poop off the 
road and into the furnace.  Natural gas and composting heat.


On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:27 PM, R A Bennell wrote:

And from the byproducts, one can create methane to heat the house! You 
may recall that the automobile with its
internal combustion engine was once hailed as the saviour of mankind 
because it was going to do away with the then
version of pollution. You can imagine the volume in a place the size 
of New York City or Chicago. You can also
imagine what it must have been like during rainy weather and also 
during real dry weather if it happened to be a

bit windy. I wonder what California would have done in that regard?

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?


Oats and hay...  the fuel of the future!

On 5/11/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Rich Thomas wrote:

It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.



It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
original intent. ;)


--R

Jeff Zedic wrote:



I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!







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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[redghost]

You would know better than me.  I just drive through the state, never 
stay long enough to know climactic conditions.  Around this neck of the 
nation, desert areas have about a 22*F temp drop, and may have some 
condensation over a long period.  Never had the issue myself.


On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 10:50 AM, Bob Rentfro wrote:


Clay thought aloud:

"In AZ, I would
 think that the temp change from day to night would have enough 
variance

 to cause some dew/condensation in the tank."

Mr. Jim and Chuck may have more emperical data but in my 25 years here 
in AZ
I can't ever recall a moisture caused fuel problem. After you drive 
the car
and get used to what "running right" feels like, then you'll know when 
it's

time to change filters. At least, I usually do a spring and fall change
out...unless I sneak in a diesel purge treatment in there somewhere 
then I

change the filters after the treatment.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park, AZ



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] PArts

[Ben Maggos]

Hello,
   
It is Ben Maggos from St. Louis. Can you call me and well talk about 
the best way for me to get a hood, grill, and transmission for my 1986 MErcedes 
300 SDL. OR email me your number and I'll call you. My number is 314-898-2404. 
I live in the 63116 area code.
   
  Ben


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From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617
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X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 19:26:24 -

Pullers are not usually too expensive and are useful in many ways. Just another 
tool to have in the box for the
next time you need to do something like this. I think I have at least a dozen 
different ones acquired over the
years. Tools are wonderful things and any excuse to acquire more is a good 
thing.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:58 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617


Well I just checked the CD and it says something about a puller.  Crap,
I dont have a puller.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

> BFH?
>
> ~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley,
> ~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2
> ~keyways.  Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the
> ~crank.  Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the
> ~assembly off it.  Removed the big center bolt but the thing will not
> ~budge.   What is the trick to pulling that sucker off the crank?
> ~--
> ~Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> ~  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
> ~  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
> ~  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
> ~http://www.striplin.net
> ~
>
>

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[R A Bennell]

And from the byproducts, one can create methane to heat the house! You may 
recall that the automobile with its
internal combustion engine was once hailed as the saviour of mankind because it 
was going to do away with the then
version of pollution. You can imagine the volume in a place the size of New 
York City or Chicago. You can also
imagine what it must have been like during rainy weather and also during real 
dry weather if it happened to be a
bit windy. I wonder what California would have done in that regard?

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?


Oats and hay...  the fuel of the future!

On 5/11/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Rich Thomas wrote:
> > It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
> >
>
> It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
> original intent. ;)
>
> > --R
> >
> > Jeff Zedic wrote:
> >
> >
> >> I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[andrew strasfogel]

Oats and hay...  the fuel of the future!

On 5/11/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Rich Thomas wrote:
> It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
>

It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
original intent. ;)

> --R
>
> Jeff Zedic wrote:
>
>
>> I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


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Re: [MBZ] Pair of Benzes In Okie

[andrew strasfogel]

What a weird listing.  No mention of whether each one, neither or one of
them runs.




On 5/11/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300_W0QQitemZ4637699083QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

It so easy I'm surprised you didn't think of it.  Just put everything
back together minus the big bolt and drive it around until just before
it falls of and shears the keys.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:58 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617


Well I just checked the CD and it says something about a puller.  Crap, 
I dont have a puller.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

> BFH?
> 
> ~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley,
> ~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2 
> ~keyways.  Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not
the 
> ~crank.  Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the 
> ~assembly off it.  Removed the big center bolt but the thing will not 
> ~budge.   What is the trick to pulling that sucker off the crank?
> ~-- 
> ~Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> ~  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
> ~  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
> ~  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
> ~http://www.striplin.net
> ~
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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[MBZ] 1987 300D at Charity Auction - Arlington

[Gary Thompson]

Looks like a 1987 300D is coming up for auction in Arlington this
week. Would be interesting to see what it goes for.

http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=13472&vType=1


Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320

Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well I just checked the CD and it says something about a puller.  Crap, 
I dont have a puller.


Luther Gulseth wrote:


BFH?

~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley, 
~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2 
~keyways.  Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the 
~crank.  Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the 
~assembly off it.  Removed the big center bolt but the thing will not 
~budge.   What is the trick to pulling that sucker off the crank?
~-- 
~Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK

~  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
~  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
~  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
~http://www.striplin.net
~




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617

[Luther Gulseth]

BFH?

~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley, 
~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2 
~keyways.  Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the 
~crank.  Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the 
~assembly off it.  Removed the big center bolt but the thing will not 
~budge.   What is the trick to pulling that sucker off the crank?
~-- 
~Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
~  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
~  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
~  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
~http://www.striplin.net
~


-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

[MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley, 
discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2 
keyways.  Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the 
crank.  Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the 
assembly off it.  Removed the big center bolt but the thing will not 
budge.   What is the trick to pulling that sucker off the crank?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Sunil Hari]

Marshall - overflow hole???  There's one of those?  And how do you check if
it's clogged?  How do you unclog it?

On 5/11/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had
been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in
after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top
bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to
leak out the top hole and button up.

On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> Gotta ask too:
>
> On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
> pulling
> the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
> when
> filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the
> hole?
> This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
> making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.
>
> Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?
>
> AND
>
> How often should this oil be changed?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[Bob Rentfro]

Clay thought aloud:

"In AZ, I would
think that the temp change from day to night would have enough variance
to cause some dew/condensation in the tank."

Mr. Jim and Chuck may have more emperical data but in my 25 years here in AZ 
I can't ever recall a moisture caused fuel problem. After you drive the car 
and get used to what "running right" feels like, then you'll know when it's 
time to change filters. At least, I usually do a spring and fall change 
out...unless I sneak in a diesel purge treatment in there somewhere then I 
change the filters after the treatment.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park, AZ

Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[David Brodbeck]

Jim Cathey wrote:
Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a 
bad
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the 
differential

ring gear/pinion?



Having actually had a bad differential in that 240D of mine,
the noise it made was good old-fashioned gear whine that while
not constant, wasn't particularly susceptible to variation
during acceleration, braking, swerving, etc.  It also definitely
came from the rear of the car.  The differential mount was also
bad on that car, but was replaced with a good used one first.
The noise level, though reduced some, was still unacceptable.
  


I've heard bad differential bearings make a humming noise, in a Ford 
van. It sounded kind of like a snow tire running on dry pavement.


Everything in a diff is pretty stout, so problems develop slowly.  
Usually you have plenty of time to listen to the noise gradually get 
worse and confirm where it is without much worry about catastrophic 
failure.  The exceptions tend to be failures caused by sudden impact 
loads, like car accidents or neutral drops.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] W140

[Marshall Booth]

Tarek Elshenawy wrote:

So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems,
but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the
question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be
enlightened about general maintenance and common problems.

The car is a 1995 S420. I remember reading about wiring harness problems...
is this all wiring harnesses? I recall reading an article about how the
wiring for the AC compressor was too short, but starting in 95, they
corrected the problem. Did Mercedes address all wiring problems starting in
95?


NO! '95s had biodegradable wiring harnesses - the replacement harnesses 
were identical and would biodegrad in another 5-10 years AND AC 
evaporators that leaked and required 30+ hours of labor to change!



My second question is regarding the chassis. Does the 95 S420V designation
constitute an extended wheelbase? I know they made short and long wheelbase
S320's, but were all S420, 500 and 600's the long wheelbase versions?

I also remember reading that the major downfall of all the gasoline W140
models was the transmission. Is this true?


The transmission was the same basic 722.3 transmission that was in all 
126/123/124 series cars from 1981 on! Hardly a more reliable 
transmission ever made (and the later ones were MORE reliable than the 
earlier ones).



In short, I would just like any information regarding the common problems
and general maintenance for the W140, specifically the S420 if possible.


The electronics for the 140 lighting system is more complex than the 
entire electrical system of a 126 chassis car. VERY expensive to 
maintain! They are a delight to drive, WHEN everything is working as it 
should. Costs to repair are EXCESSIVE and you really can't maintain them 
without the dealer setup.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[redghost]

Gump has fresh M1 in her rear.  Have no idea how long the stuff had 
been there, but she is much nicer with M1.  Simple 90 weight went in 
after sucking the old stuff out.  Same thing for the e300D.  Remove top 
bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out.  Install drain plug, fill to 
leak out the top hole and button up.


On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


Gotta ask too:

On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of 
pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and 
when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the 
hole?

This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.

Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?

AND

How often should this oil be changed?

Brian
83 240D
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[redghost]

No PS on Gump, so no fluids there.  Use the MB stuff on the e300D

Fuel filters I change when they get balky or black.  In AZ, I would 
think that the temp change from day to night would have enough variance 
to cause some dew/condensation in the tank.  I have found that 10-15k 
miles is standard for those filters.


ATF is in Gumps trans.  She shifts great with M1 in a manual.  The book 
calls for motor oil, but I understand that was a transition thing when 
DB was in between ATF fluids for manuals.



On Wednesday, May 10, 2006, at 11:49 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a 
few

basic questions.

It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 
240D

since finally taking possession of it.

1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much 
moisture-related
problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of 
engine

replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago).
It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile 
can be
told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black 
bits in

there.

2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long 
time if
ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says 
to use
ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific 
power
steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use 
Dexron II,

or Dexron III?

3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 
10 W/20

W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20
weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow 
TFM?
I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've 
also
heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil (though I 
believe

this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.)

So forgive the basic questions that you've heard a hundred times 
before. But

help me out here.

Brian
83 240D
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[David Brodbeck]

Rich Thomas wrote:

It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
  


It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the 
original intent. ;)



--R

Jeff Zedic wrote:

  

I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!

 





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Re: [MBZ] Trannie Flush Technique - OK for MB???

[Marshall Booth]

Dillon, Meade LCDR wrote:

Dieselvolk,

Anyone know if this technique of flushing is approved for our cars?


NO, it's NOT approved and is unwise UNLESS you want to try it before 
replacing a transmission that is failing (it MIGHT flush out something 
that's causing a problem, but that's unlikely). But the Mercedes 
transmission is designed so that the crud does usually end up in the pan 
and the filter catches it before it's recirculated back thru the 
transmission. The primary purpose of the flush devices was to allow a 
complete fluid change (both sump and torque converter) in transmissions 
that were NOT designed for complete oil removal. I've read the 
promotional and sales pitches as well as "white papers" on the 
methodology from several sources. It is a satisfactory technique for 
most older American cars (I have seen no papers less than  10 years old) 
but may not be worth the added cost over conventional routine regular 
transmission service. At least one study purported to show that on some 
transmissions, the flush service was INFERIOR.


Mercedes included a torque converter drain. The flush was designed so 
the pan didn't need to come off - the device was hooked up, the flush 
performed and the device disconnected. Very quick and a money maker for 
the shop - UNLESS they also needed to remove the pan afterward to change 
the filter (which would be necessary in a Mercedes transmission) and 
then refill the transmission - most shops would do that.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Marshall Booth]

Zoltan Finks wrote:

Gotta ask too:

On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole?
This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.

Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?

AND

How often should this oil be changed?


Pull the fill plug (14 mm hex) with the wheels on the ground (not 
dangling as they will be if you jack the car up) and measure the fluid 
level. If the wheels are dangling, the fluid level WILL be lower (may be 
even more than one knuckle lower - not sure about a 123 chassis car - 
haven't serviced on in several decades) and if you bring the level up to 
where it runs out and button things up, it WILL be overfilled. That 
USUALLY not a problem as long as the overflow port is NOT clogged up. If 
it IS clogged, the oil will push out around the front seal and that's 
big trouble (easiest solution is a replacement differential).


Changing fluid every 30-60kmi is probably wise.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] Pair of Benzes In Okie

[Rick Knoble]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300_W0QQitemZ4637699083QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
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Zoltan Finks wrote:
> Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few
> basic questions.
>
> It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 240D
> since finally taking possession of it.
>
> 1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
> thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much moisture-related
> problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of engine
> replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago).
> It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile can be
> told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black bits in
> there.

Change fuel filters if you see particulate or very dark fuel in the
inline filter (a little air is normal). One or two particles is NOT a
problem (that's what the filter is there to catch). A lot of particles
that are accumulating rapidly ARE a problem. If you've gone more than
30kmi since the filters were last changed, it's probably best to change
them. If you are buying quality fuel and using the car daily, you may be
able to go MUCH longer between fuel filter changes (I've gone more than
60kmi without any problem, but one tank of bad fuel is all it takes to
necessitate a filter change). If you notice that the engine won't reach
it's maximum speed a clogged fuel or air filter may be the cause. If
fuel consumption has increased but you can't detect any leaks (this
isn't intuitive, but a partially clogged fuel filter will usually
INCREASE fuel consumption) a filter change may be required. Air filter
should be changed every kmi unless the weather is cold, wet or dust is
bad - then every 15kmi - but they occasionally will clog up before the
you reach the usual mileage limits - and when that's needed top speed
will be compromised.

>
> 2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long time if
> ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says to use
> ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific power
> steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use Dexron II,
> or Dexron III?

ATF is the proper choice of power steering fluid for that car (the
Mercedes fluid, while satisfactory is NOT better in THAT car and is more
expensive). Mobil 1 ATF will reduce cold weather stiffness, but ANY
Dexron II/III rated fluid is adequate. Change filter too! You can remove
the contents of the reservoir (that's more than a pint) and refill it.
If you do that every couple of days 4 times, more than 90% of the fluid
will be fresh. Or you can pump out the contents while adding fluid to
the reservoir (messy - don't let it run dry).
>
> 3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 10 W/20
> W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20
> weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow TFM?
> I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've also
> heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil (though I believe
> this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.)

Mercedes used ATF for many years before your transmission was made and
for years after

Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[dave walton]

The Flex-Fuel vehicles sold in Brazil are shipped with a small second gas
tank designed to contain gasoline. The winters in Brazil get cold enough to
cause starting problems when running ethanol. The car's electronics automate
the gasoline purge on shutdown.

-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300

On 5/10/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I agree with the last post.  Sounds pretty reasonable to me.
As for the E85, I think it would take way too much unless it's sold as a
flex-fuel vehicle.

As for the flushing, my main hesitation would be "how old is it?"  I
wouldn't bother with a flush before about 60-100K miles (depending on how
"safe" you want to be).
But yes, I've had several flushes done.  It depends on how bad your fluid
is
and how much your system holds as to how much they use.  I've seen quite a
few gallons go through some of my dirtier vehicles that I let go for more
than 100K miles between changes.  The machines I've seen you can watch the
fluid go through to see when you start getting "clean" fluid coming out.
The only thing I've noticed lately to be careful of is that some of the
quick-change places aren't changing filters anymore, and that's
inexcusable
to me...

And yeah, the manual could definitely be listing only an amount for not
changing out the torque converter, etc...  (not say it IS, but definitely
possible)...

Levi (:


On 5/10/06, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I'm taking the wife's Honda CRV into the dealer for an oil change (we
got
> several free oil changes as part of the deal of purchasing vehicle). And
> I'm
> going to ask them what it would take to make the vehicle capable of
> running
> E-85.
>
> I'm going to run something past y'all that they told me last time. They
> changed the trannie fluid, and I noticed on the invoice that it took
like
> 12
> quarts or so (maybe more, I forget) - a lot more than I thought it
should.
>
> Their explanation is that they always flush the trannie when changing
> fluid,
> and they actually use fresh trannie fluid to do the flushing. I really
> question this, as it seems very wasteful. In addition, he told me the
> capacity on the thing was more than the manual says, explaning that it's
> because the manual quotes capacity for simply changing the fluid without
> completely emptying it (torque converter, etc.).
>
> Sound fishy? Or not?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
> 2000 Honda CRV
> ___
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[MBZ] Trannie Flush Technique - OK for MB???

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

Dieselvolk,

Anyone know if this technique of flushing is approved for our cars?

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique


You do want to make sure they're still changing the filter.  They USED
to do it at the quick lube around here as part of the service, but now
it's a Jiffy-lube and they don't want to get "internal", though for an
extra $60 or something they will usually do it.

If I recall correctly the way they described it (which seemed ot make
sense) was that they replaced the filter, and then flushed and only the
clean oil from the machine was going through the filter until the flush
was completed. I guess I'm assuming if that is correct that one of the
oil cooler lines goes more or less directly into the filter before
continuing on into the tranny?...

Levi

On 5/11/06, Gary Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The only problem is the filter isn't being changed. If you've got crud

> clogging up the filter, the flush either leaves it there or pulls it 
> on through the filter. Both are bad.
>
> I took my daughter's Pathfinder in for a 60K service one time when she

> was in a hurry and I couldn't fdo it. I specified I didn't want the 
> tranny flushed, but wanted them to drop the pan and replace the 
> filter. About a month later, she was stranded when the transmission 
> refused to go into gear. Pulled the drain plug and found Kaleb's pepto

> in the pan. When I got the tranny to a rebuilder I trust, he mentioned

> that the pan had never been off before. Still had the sealant gunk 
> from the factory on it. Hindsight, of course, would leave me to 
> suspect the shop that did the 60K service flushed it with 
> water-contaminated fluid.
>
> I want to see the seal on the transmission fluid bottles break myself 
> now!
>
>
> Gary Thompson
> 1995 E320
>
>
> On 5/10/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I heard them talking about this on Car Talk the other day. 
> > Apparently
> the guys think its a great idea as it will completely swap out all the

> fluid in the trans.
> >  I've had it done a couple times on my Dodge Pickup truck inbetween
> filter changes. That truck has 187kmi on what I'm reasonably sure is 
> the original transmission. I've had it for 135kmi anyway.
> >
> >  -Curt
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[Curt Raymond]

I went a long time before I trusted myself to replace the fuel filters in my 
240D, usedta pay my Indy to do it. Now I've done them in both the 240D and my 
190D, the 240D is MUCH easier! Get Rusty to send you a can of diesel purge or 
pickup a can of PowerService Diesel Kleen to fill the filter with. I didn't 
when I changed the filter on my 240D and it took forever to fill it with the 
little hand pump.
   
  On the powersteering I use ATF and drain the housing every time I change the 
oil. once a year I change the filter which is down in the bottom held down by a 
spring. I use Mobil 1 ATF, a quart will last a couple changes doing it that 
way, I figure for $6 I'll be a bigshot. When I got my 190D the powersteering 
pump made a little noise when it was cold but thats totally gone now after 
doing it just once. I expect that just changing it would have fixed the sound 
but I figure every bit helps.
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D "Dory" 238kmi
   
  Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 01:49:13 -0500
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a 
few
basic questions.

It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 
240D
since finally taking possession of it.

1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much 
moisture-related
problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of 
engine
replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago).
It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile 
can be
told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black 
bits in
there.

2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long 
time if
ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says 
to use
ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific 
power
steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use 
Dexron II,
or Dexron III?


So forgive the basic questions that you've heard a hundred times 
before. But
help me out here.

Brian
83 240D



-
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We do on the biodiesel list.

Zoltan Finks wrote:

> Do you guys talk about WVO too?
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>>WDBAB33A4EA040053
>>
>>Bruce & Sandy
>>
>>Our Biodiesel site
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea
>>Our Home Web site
>>http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/
>>
>>
>>
>>___
>>http://www.striplin.net
>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
> 
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 30

Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[Gary Thompson]

Replacing the filter first is really the way to do it. Unfortunately,
what I've observed is that the lazy SOBs use the machine when they
DON'T want to go to the trouble of dropping the pan and replacing the
filter.

Whichever way you go, make sure you understand what you're paying for
before the work is done. Then, make sure it really did get done the
way you wanted!

The theory's all good, but in general, the only guys I've ever heard
recommend the use of the flushing machines were guys that had to make
payments on a brand new flushing machine. YMMV.

Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 5/11/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

You do want to make sure they're still changing the filter.  They USED to do
it at the quick lube around here as part of the service, but now it's a
Jiffy-lube and they don't want to get "internal", though for an extra $60 or
something they will usually do it.

If I recall correctly the way they described it (which seemed ot make sense)
was that they replaced the filter, and then flushed and only the clean oil
from the machine was going through the filter until the flush was
completed.
I guess I'm assuming if that is correct that one of the oil cooler lines
goes more or less directly into the filter before continuing on into the
tranny?...

Levi

Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[Levi Smith]

You do want to make sure they're still changing the filter.  They USED to do
it at the quick lube around here as part of the service, but now it's a
Jiffy-lube and they don't want to get "internal", though for an extra $60 or
something they will usually do it.

If I recall correctly the way they described it (which seemed ot make sense)
was that they replaced the filter, and then flushed and only the clean oil
from the machine was going through the filter until the flush was
completed.
I guess I'm assuming if that is correct that one of the oil cooler lines
goes more or less directly into the filter before continuing on into the
tranny?...

Levi

On 5/11/06, Gary Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


The only problem is the filter isn't being changed. If you've got crud
clogging up the filter, the flush either leaves it there or pulls it
on through the filter. Both are bad.

I took my daughter's Pathfinder in for a 60K service one time when she
was in a hurry and I couldn't fdo it. I specified I didn't want the
tranny flushed, but wanted them to drop the pan and replace the
filter. About a month later, she was stranded when the transmission
refused to go into gear. Pulled the drain plug and found Kaleb's pepto
in the pan. When I got the tranny to a rebuilder I trust, he mentioned
that the pan had never been off before. Still had the sealant gunk
from the factory on it. Hindsight, of course, would leave me to
suspect the shop that did the 60K service flushed it with
water-contaminated fluid.

I want to see the seal on the transmission fluid bottles break myself now!


Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 5/10/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I heard them talking about this on Car Talk the other day. Apparently
the guys think its a great idea as it will completely swap out all the fluid
in the trans.
>  I've had it done a couple times on my Dodge Pickup truck inbetween
filter changes. That truck has 187kmi on what I'm reasonably sure is the
original transmission. I've had it for 135kmi anyway.
>
>  -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[Gary Thompson]

The only problem is the filter isn't being changed. If you've got crud
clogging up the filter, the flush either leaves it there or pulls it
on through the filter. Both are bad.

I took my daughter's Pathfinder in for a 60K service one time when she
was in a hurry and I couldn't fdo it. I specified I didn't want the
tranny flushed, but wanted them to drop the pan and replace the
filter. About a month later, she was stranded when the transmission
refused to go into gear. Pulled the drain plug and found Kaleb's pepto
in the pan. When I got the tranny to a rebuilder I trust, he mentioned
that the pan had never been off before. Still had the sealant gunk
from the factory on it. Hindsight, of course, would leave me to
suspect the shop that did the 60K service flushed it with
water-contaminated fluid.

I want to see the seal on the transmission fluid bottles break myself now!


Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 5/10/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I heard them talking about this on Car Talk the other day. Apparently the guys 
think its a great idea as it will completely swap out all the fluid in the 
trans.
 I've had it done a couple times on my Dodge Pickup truck inbetween filter 
changes. That truck has 187kmi on what I'm reasonably sure is the original 
transmission. I've had it for 135kmi anyway.

 -Curt

Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[Jim Cathey]

Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a 
bad
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the 
differential

ring gear/pinion?


Having actually had a bad differential in that 240D of mine,
the noise it made was good old-fashioned gear whine that while
not constant, wasn't particularly susceptible to variation
during acceleration, braking, swerving, etc.  It also definitely
came from the rear of the car.  The differential mount was also
bad on that car, but was replaced with a good used one first.
The noise level, though reduced some, was still unacceptable.

The bad diff, once removed, was obviously loose in the pinion,
and may have been recoverable by tightening it.  The internals
looked good, otherwise.  Time constraints prevented me from
trying out this step first as it takes a substantial percentage
of replacement time and I already had a spare diff.  There's
a special castle nut tool you need too, but I already had it.
I was really sad that I didn't get to use it, it cost me plenty!
(Several times what the replacement differential did, in fact.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[Jim Cathey]

3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 
10 W/20

W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20
weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow 
TFM?
I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've 
also
heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil (though I 
believe

this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.)


The pinkie dip, etc., is how you do both the manual transmission
(usually using ATF) and the differential (using gear oil).  Gear
oil will eat the transmission, don't use it there.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] W140

[James Zavesky]

ALL the wiring in the engine compartment is as they say "bio-degradeable"
under the hood. Inclusive of main engine harness, injection harness, ETA
harness(s), starter harness, ASR and ADS harness's. Also depending on the
injection system the ETA harness OR the potentometer in the ETA on one or
both may be bad and will have to be replaced so the car doesn't run in limp
home mode. But when they run right it's a rush to drive.

The 500 and 600 were long wheel base vehicles with the Burl wood interior.
No idea about the 3xx or 4xx cars but I thought they were the short wheel
base cars.

The W140 series are also know for evaporator issues.

If I had to do it over again I'd buy a 1996-1999 S600. They have ODBII and
most of the bugs had been worked out by then, especially the later years.
Stay away from the 2000-2002 S class with cylinder shutoff. A bad thing.



James Zavesky
1991 500SL
1992 600SEL
1995 E320





- Original Message - 
From: "Tarek Elshenawy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "'Banned List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
"'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:20 AM
Subject: [MBZ] W140


> So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems,
> but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the
> question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be
> enlightened about general maintenance and common problems.
>
> The car is a 1995 S420. I remember reading about wiring harness
problems...
> is this all wiring harnesses? I recall reading an article about how the
> wiring for the AC compressor was too short, but starting in 95, they
> corrected the problem. Did Mercedes address all wiring problems starting
in
> 95?
>
> My second question is regarding the chassis. Does the 95 S420V designation
> constitute an extended wheelbase? I know they made short and long
wheelbase
> S320's, but were all S420, 500 and 600's the long wheelbase versions?
>
> I also remember reading that the major downfall of all the gasoline W140
> models was the transmission. Is this true?
>
> In short, I would just like any information regarding the common problems
> and general maintenance for the W140, specifically the S420 if possible.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tarek Elshenawy
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Sunil Hari]

same procedure.  every 30,000 miles IIRC.

On 5/11/06, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Gotta ask too:

On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole?
This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.

Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?

AND

How often should this oil be changed?

Brian
83 240D
___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] key fob

[John W. Reames III]

I know the DAS-3 (and DAS-2) fobs are car/chassis specific .. the 
switchblades you just stick in the ignition and wait.. the plastic keys... 
dealer.

Reprogramming them to work on another car... thats why there are so many 
of them on ebay for cheap. They are usable for the plastic casings only.

-j.

Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[archer]

Hopefully it's the axle, which a replacement will correct.  If not, I'll 
take it to my mechanic who is pretty good at diagnosis.  Thanks again.

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade LCDR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot



Gerry,

More commonly the noise is an axle or the diff. mount.  After 23 years,
if that mount is original, it surely is dead and the rubber is hard as a
rock.  'Tis a relatively easy job (need a pretty big socket to remove
the mount from the diff) and the mount-to-body screws are supposed to be
renewed on principle due to micro-encapsulating coating.

That noise can be isolated if you put the car up on axle stands, have
someone start engine/engage drive/gently increase throttle until noise
is present, then use mechanics stethoscope to very carefully listen to
various components while crawling around under the car.  Not a test for
the faint of heart, need to take many safety precautions and have safety
observer present.  Probably would be best to send this job to your
mechanic and let him diagnose.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


Thanks, Meade.  It sounds like my best bet is a good used half axle with

good boots from Kaleb or Potomac.  When I turn the right rear wheel
there
isn't any play between the "cans" and the axle shaft or the drive shaft.

I wonder if the differential type hum I hear could be coming from the
driveshaft carrier bearing or the transmission (which is the original
with
250,000 miles on it.)?
I just changed the ATF fluid and filter, and there was no metal in the
transmission pan.

I'll check the spider joint by weaving on the road before ordering
anything.

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade LCDR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot



Gerry,

Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots
still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new
joint from Rusty.  Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor
reliability.  The labor and parts required to simply change the boots
approaches the cost of a new axle (special press required to make
metal-metal seal on can), and if the joint has already been
contaminated with dirt, it will fail soon anyway so that path is
fraught with risk.  I put in a used axle in my 123 wagon (can annular)



to replace a homokinetic.

There is no connection/path from diff. oil to boot lubrication for
spider joint.

If the axle spider joint is bad, noise will change as you load and
unload that side of the car by gently weaving back and forth at
highway speeds.  Noise when turning left/listing to starboard/loading
right side axle indicates bad joint(s) on that axle, and vice versa.

Differential failure is very rare.  Noise from diff. is typically
resolved by replacing the diff. rubber mount.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it



has thrown out quite a bit of grease.

The differential is still full of oil.

There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor
decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential
often

makes: a steady hum.

Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a



bad axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the
differential

ring gear/pinion?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


___
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--
No virus found in this incoming messa

Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

Gerry,

More commonly the noise is an axle or the diff. mount.  After 23 years,
if that mount is original, it surely is dead and the rubber is hard as a
rock.  'Tis a relatively easy job (need a pretty big socket to remove
the mount from the diff) and the mount-to-body screws are supposed to be
renewed on principle due to micro-encapsulating coating.

That noise can be isolated if you put the car up on axle stands, have
someone start engine/engage drive/gently increase throttle until noise
is present, then use mechanics stethoscope to very carefully listen to
various components while crawling around under the car.  Not a test for
the faint of heart, need to take many safety precautions and have safety
observer present.  Probably would be best to send this job to your
mechanic and let him diagnose.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


Thanks, Meade.  It sounds like my best bet is a good used half axle with

good boots from Kaleb or Potomac.  When I turn the right rear wheel
there 
isn't any play between the "cans" and the axle shaft or the drive shaft.

I wonder if the differential type hum I hear could be coming from the 
driveshaft carrier bearing or the transmission (which is the original
with 
250,000 miles on it.)?
I just changed the ATF fluid and filter, and there was no metal in the 
transmission pan.

I'll check the spider joint by weaving on the road before ordering
anything.

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade LCDR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


> Gerry,
>
> Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots 
> still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new 
> joint from Rusty.  Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor 
> reliability.  The labor and parts required to simply change the boots 
> approaches the cost of a new axle (special press required to make 
> metal-metal seal on can), and if the joint has already been 
> contaminated with dirt, it will fail soon anyway so that path is 
> fraught with risk.  I put in a used axle in my 123 wagon (can annular)

> to replace a homokinetic.
>
> There is no connection/path from diff. oil to boot lubrication for 
> spider joint.
>
> If the axle spider joint is bad, noise will change as you load and 
> unload that side of the car by gently weaving back and forth at 
> highway speeds.  Noise when turning left/listing to starboard/loading 
> right side axle indicates bad joint(s) on that axle, and vice versa.
>
> Differential failure is very rare.  Noise from diff. is typically 
> resolved by replacing the diff. rubber mount.
>
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> Meade Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD 287k miles
> '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
> '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot
>
>
> The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it

> has thrown out quite a bit of grease.
>
> The differential is still full of oil.
>
> There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor 
> decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential 
> often
>
> makes: a steady hum.
>
> Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a

> bad axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the 
> differential
>
> ring gear/pinion?
>
> Thanks,
> Gerry Archer
> '83 300D and 240D
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date:
5/5/2006
>
> 


___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For
used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[archer]

Thanks, Meade.  It sounds like my best bet is a good used half axle with 
good boots from Kaleb or Potomac.  When I turn the right rear wheel there 
isn't any play between the "cans" and the axle shaft or the drive shaft.


I wonder if the differential type hum I hear could be coming from the 
driveshaft carrier bearing or the transmission (which is the original with 
250,000 miles on it.)?
I just changed the ATF fluid and filter, and there was no metal in the 
transmission pan.


I'll check the spider joint by weaving on the road before ordering anything.

Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade LCDR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot



Gerry,

Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots
still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new joint
from Rusty.  Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor reliability.  The
labor and parts required to simply change the boots approaches the cost
of a new axle (special press required to make metal-metal seal on can),
and if the joint has already been contaminated with dirt, it will fail
soon anyway so that path is fraught with risk.  I put in a used axle in
my 123 wagon (can annular) to replace a homokinetic.

There is no connection/path from diff. oil to boot lubrication for
spider joint.

If the axle spider joint is bad, noise will change as you load and
unload that side of the car by gently weaving back and forth at highway
speeds.  Noise when turning left/listing to starboard/loading right side
axle indicates bad joint(s) on that axle, and vice versa.

Differential failure is very rare.  Noise from diff. is typically
resolved by replacing the diff. rubber mount.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it
has
thrown out quite a bit of grease.

The differential is still full of oil.

There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor
decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential often

makes: a steady hum.

Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a
bad
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the differential

ring gear/pinion?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D


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Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

Gerry,

Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots
still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new joint
from Rusty.  Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor reliability.  The
labor and parts required to simply change the boots approaches the cost
of a new axle (special press required to make metal-metal seal on can),
and if the joint has already been contaminated with dirt, it will fail
soon anyway so that path is fraught with risk.  I put in a used axle in
my 123 wagon (can annular) to replace a homokinetic.

There is no connection/path from diff. oil to boot lubrication for
spider joint.

If the axle spider joint is bad, noise will change as you load and
unload that side of the car by gently weaving back and forth at highway
speeds.  Noise when turning left/listing to starboard/loading right side
axle indicates bad joint(s) on that axle, and vice versa.

Differential failure is very rare.  Noise from diff. is typically
resolved by replacing the diff. rubber mount.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:36 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot


The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it
has 
thrown out quite a bit of grease.

The differential is still full of oil.

There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor 
decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential often

makes: a steady hum.

Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a
bad 
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the differential

ring gear/pinion?

Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

Yes, same procedure for checking oil level and filling in.  Hazet makes
a really nice wrench that has the hex bit at one end and 13mm six point
at other end for oil drain plug.  If you plan to do all your own oil
changes, this is a really nice wrench to have, cost is about $30 I
believe.  I remove engine oil by suction (MB approved, removes more oil
and I don't have to crawl under the car) so I don't use the oil drain
plug end of the wrench, put the hex key end is really nice to have for
those plugs on the tranny and diff.

Change interval is not specified in the maintenance sheets (attached,
will be stripped from list copy).  Auto trans fluid/filter interval is
30k miles, so to be conservative I'd use same for manual trans.
Differential oil and power steering fluid should probably be changed
every 60k or maybe at 90k, MB does not specify a change interval.  Will
also depend on your driving duty - severe duty (heavy loads and/or dusty
conditions/poor roads) would require shorter change intervals.  Tranny
and diff level should be checked every 15k miles.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid


Gotta ask too:

On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
pulling the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel
around; and when filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to
run out of the hole? This is the method on what I grew up on - American
Iron - but I am just making sure it's that simple with the German stuff
too.

Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?

AND

How often should this oil be changed?

Brian
83 240D
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[MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot

[archer]

The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it has 
thrown out quite a bit of grease.


The differential is still full of oil.

There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor 
decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential often 
makes: a steady hum.


Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a bad 
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the differential 
ring gear/pinion?


Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 

[MBZ] W140

[Tarek Elshenawy]

So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems,
but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the
question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be
enlightened about general maintenance and common problems.

The car is a 1995 S420. I remember reading about wiring harness problems...
is this all wiring harnesses? I recall reading an article about how the
wiring for the AC compressor was too short, but starting in 95, they
corrected the problem. Did Mercedes address all wiring problems starting in
95?

My second question is regarding the chassis. Does the 95 S420V designation
constitute an extended wheelbase? I know they made short and long wheelbase
S320's, but were all S420, 500 and 600's the long wheelbase versions?

I also remember reading that the major downfall of all the gasoline W140
models was the transmission. Is this true?

In short, I would just like any information regarding the common problems
and general maintenance for the W140, specifically the S420 if possible.

Thanks in advance.

Tarek Elshenawy

Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[Dillon, Meade LCDR]

Brian,

1) Both every 30k miles or sooner if required (clogged fuel filters can
actually degrade your fuel efficiency - if you see a drop in mileage,
filter change may be in order).  Carry a spare clear filter in glove box
- when the one in the fuel line plugs up, car will not start or will run
very rough.  Please only use OE or OEM filters (Mann, Hengst, Mahle, and
one other I can't remember now).

2) ATF (II or III) will be fine in your car, later models require the MB
power steering fluid.  There's also a filter in the bottom of the
reservoir.  Some people change fluid by disconnecting the low pressure
return line, directing it into a waste container, and then start the car
and pour in fresh while pumping out the old.  I prefer to put front axle
up on axle stands, then remove centering alignment plug from bottom of
steering box and letting it drain out.  Wheels must be off center to let
it drain.  Work front wheels back and forth while filling, in order to
get the air out.  After you get no more bubbles, start engine and work
wheels back and forth more and get the last of the air out of the box.

3) Use ATF in your manual transmission, get the Mobil 1 synthetic if you
really want to splurge (will help with reducing stiffness on those cold
mornings).  Do not use gear lube - the additives will destroy the
transmission (I think there are some plastic pieces that are
susceptible).  I'm curious to know whether or not you have a magnet in
the drain plug for your transmission.  My '85 300TD did not, but I
figured out the part number from EPC and got one.  My 190D does.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:49 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters


Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few
basic questions.

It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the
240D since finally taking possession of it.

1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much
moisture-related problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed
at the time of engine replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi.
ago). It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything
worthwhile can be told by looking at that? There are actually a couple
of small black bits in there.

2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long time
if ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says
to use ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells
specific power steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if
ATF, use Dexron II, or Dexron III?

3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 10
W/20 W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight
20 weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just
follow TFM? I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny,
and I've also heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil
(though I believe this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.)

So forgive the basic questions that you've heard a hundred times before.
But help me out here.

Brian
83 240D
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[MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid

[Zoltan Finks]

Gotta ask too:

On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole?
This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just
making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too.

Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure?

AND

How often should this oil be changed?

Brian
83 240D

[MBZ] Fluids and Filters

[Zoltan Finks]

Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few
basic questions.

It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 240D
since finally taking possession of it.

1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much moisture-related
problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of engine
replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago).
It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile can be
told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black bits in
there.

2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long time if
ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says to use
ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific power
steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use Dexron II,
or Dexron III?

3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 10 W/20
W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20
weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow TFM?
I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've also
heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil (though I believe
this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.)

So forgive the basic questions that you've heard a hundred times before. But
help me out here.

Brian
83 240D

Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[kevin kraly]

it has a brand new turbo buster on it.

Wunder if wunnadem there thangs'd fit own ma 300CD?  Hahaha!

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
Giesela, 1981 300CD 204K miles

Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 5/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--




That's pretty sad.  It's one thing to let a 123 get to that condition, but
the '87 300D Turbo is special!  Every one that's in that kind of shape is
one less that's ever going to be on the road out of the original 10,000 or
whatever that were imported into the USA...

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] VIN check please

[Zoltan Finks]

Do you guys talk about WVO too?

Brian


On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


WDBAB33A4EA040053

Bruce & Sandy

Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea
Our Home Web site
http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/



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Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[Zoltan Finks]

You're right. It's just that's its regarding a Honda. But it is quite
relevant, I agree.

Brian


On 5/10/06, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Why is this thread labeled OT???  I think it is very much ON topic!

On 5/10/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If that's the case, then sounds like the right way to do it!
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 3:15 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique
>
>
> I don't think they're "power" or "back" flushing anything.
> The ones I've seen and had done hook up in-line with the tranny cooler
> lines.  I believe the tranny's really doing all the pumping.  The
> machine just has a couple reservoirs for clean and dirty oil and you can
> see the nasty junk come out and the good stuff go in, and you proceed
> until the oil coming out looks nice and clean. Much better in my opinion
> that simply changing maybe 1/2 the fluid and leaving the rest old and
> nasty in the torque converter.  (since most cars don't allow you to
> drain it like the Mercedes).
>
> Levi
>
> On 5/10/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Brian,
> >
> > I'm also suspicious of the flushing.  I've heard bad things about
> > back-flushing or power flushing transmissions.  They're probably
> > correct on the difference from the manual quantity.  If you didn't pay
>
> > for it and no harm was done, I wouldn't worry about it.  If you're
> > paying for the fluid, I'd ask that they don't flush it next time, and
> > I'd certainly not agree to any back flush or power flush.
> >
> > Very respectfully,
> > /s/
> > Meade Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> > '87 300TD 287k miles
> > '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
> > '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:52 PM
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Subject: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique
> >
> >
> > I'm taking the wife's Honda CRV into the dealer for an oil change (we
> > got several free oil changes as part of the deal of purchasing
> > vehicle). And I'm going to ask them what it would take to make the
> > vehicle capable of running E-85.
> >
> > I'm going to run something past y'all that they told me last time.
> > They changed the trannie fluid, and I noticed on the invoice that it
> > took like 12 quarts or so (maybe more, I forget) - a lot more than I
> > thought it should.
> >
> > Their explanation is that they always flush the trannie when changing
> > fluid, and they actually use fresh trannie fluid to do the flushing. I
>
> > really question this, as it seems very wasteful. In addition, he told
> > me the capacity on the thing was more than the manual says, explaning
> > that it's because the manual quotes capacity for simply changing the
> > fluid without completely emptying it (torque converter, etc.).
> >
> > Sound fishy? Or not?
> >
> > Brian
> > 83 240D
> > 2000 Honda CRV
> > ___
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Zoltan Finks]

It's like he was jokingly writing that way. He knew how to spell "half",
only he used it in place of "have". I would expect someone to write "hav" or
"haf" or "hafta". Must have had to write that word on the blackboard 50
times.

Brian

On 5/10/06, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Awwh come on, give him a break it's just about hay time.

Hendrik
not as many cars as you but getting there

- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Banned List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes mailing list"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent


>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
>  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
>  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
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>
>
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>

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Re: [MBZ] VIN check please

[kayoooh @ gmail]

>Message: 17
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 21:17:11 -0400
>From: "Bruce Lulfs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [MBZ] VIN check please
>
>WDBAB33A4EA040053
>
>Bruce & Sandy

Here you go!

Omar.

Your AutoCheck Vehicle History Report

Report Run Date: 05/11/2006
Vehicle Description: WDBAB33A4EA040053
TitleCheck: No Record Found
Problem Check: No Record Found
Odometer Check: Record(s) Found
Vehicle Information: No Record Found
Full History: Record(s) Found

VIN: WDBAB33A4EA040053
Year: 1984
Make: Mercedes-Benz
Model: 300 Series 300D-T
Style/Body: 4 Door Sedan
Engine: 3.0L I-5 FI Tbo Dsl
Country of Assembly: Germany


Your Vehicle Checks Out! AutoCheck's database for this 1984 Mercedes-Benz
300 Series 300D-T (WDBAB33A4EA040053) show no significant Title events. When
found, events often indicate past automotive damage or warnings associated
with the vehicle title.

Problems Checked Results Found
Abandoned  No Abandoned Record Found
Damaged  No Damaged Record Found
Fire Damage  No Fire Damage Record Found
Grey Market  No Grey Market Record Found
Hail Damage  No Hail Damage Record Found
Insurance Loss  No Insurance Loss Record Found
Junk  No Junk Record Found
Rebuilt/Rebuildable  No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Record Found
Salvage  No Salvage Record Found

Your Vehicle Checks Out! AutoCheck's database for this 1984 Mercedes-Benz
300 Series 300D-T (WDBAB33A4EA040053) shows no historical events that
indicate a significant automotive problem. These problems can indicate
previous car damage, theft, or other significant problem.

Problems Checked Results Found
NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle  No NHTSA Crash Test Record Found
Frame Damage  No Frame Damage Record Found
Major Damage Incident  No Major Damage Record Found
Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon  No Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon Record Found
Odometer Problem  No Odometer Problem Record Found
Recycled  No Recycled Record Found
Salvage Auction  No Salvage Auction Record Found
Water Damage  No Water Damage Record Found

Your Vehicle Checks Out! For this 1984  Mercedes-Benz  300 Series 300D-T
(WDBAB33A4EA040053) no indication of an odometer rollback or tampering was
found. We determine odometer rollbacks by searching for records that
indicate odometer reading that are less than a previously reported value.
Other odometer events can report events of tampering, or possible odometer
breakage.

Report Date: 05/11/2006
Date Reported Odometer Reading
07/16/1993 80,689
01/17/2006 214,000
02/10/2006 215,046

Your Vehicle Checks Out! AutoCheck shows a clean record for this 1984
Mercedes-Benz 300 Series 300D-T (WDBAB33A4EA040053).   For some cars, past
vehicle information may give indication of excessive wear and tear, such as
police cars or taxi use.

Problems Checked Results Found
Accident Data  No Accidents Reported Through State Agencies Or Independent
Sources
Corrected Title  No Corrected Title Record Found
Driver Education  No Driver Education Record Found
Duplicate Title  No Duplicate Title Record Found
Emission/Safety Inspection  No Emission/Safety Inspection Record Found
Fire Damage Incident  No Fire Damage Incident Record Found
Lease  No Lease Record Found
Lien  Lien Record(s) Found
Livery Use  No Livery Use Record Found
Government Use  No Government Use Record Found
Police Use  No Police Use Record Found
Fleet  No Fleet Record Found
Fleet and/or Rental  No Fleet and/or Rental Record Found
Rental  No Rental Record Found
Fleet and/or Lease  No Fleet and/or Lease Record Found
Repossessed  No Repossessed Record Found
Storm Area Registration/Title  No Storm Area Registration/Title Indicated
Taxi Use  No Taxi Use Record Found
Theft  No Theft Record Found

Below are the historical events for this vehicle listed in chronological
order. Any discrepancies will be in bold text.

Report Run Date: 05/11/2006
VIN: WDBAB33A4EA040053  1984  Mercedes-Benz  300 Series 300D-T

Event Date Event Location Odometer Reading Data Source Event Detail
07/16/1993 INDIANAPOLIS, IN 80,689 Motor Vehicle Dept. ODOMETER READING FROM
DMV
08/31/1993 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title #:93233154019)
(Lien Reported)
05/22/1996 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
07/31/1997 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
05/26/1998 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
06/03/1999 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
05/05/2000 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
08/05/2002 INDIANAPOLIS, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
01/28/2003 FORT WAYNE, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
02/04/2004 FORT WAYNE, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
01/17/2006 FORT WAYNE, IN 214,000 Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title
#:06484011014)
02/10/2006 HAMILTON, IN 215,046 Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title
#:06304028008)
02/10/2006 HAMILTON, IN Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL

Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Hendrik Riessen]

Awwh come on, give him a break it's just about hay time.

Hendrik
not as many cars as you but getting there

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Banned List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes mailing list" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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--
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Re: [MBZ] fuel prices?

[Rich Thomas]

It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.

--R

Jeff Zedic wrote:



I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!

 

Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Sunil Hari]

just looks like ass.  i think I'd pay $100 for it.

On 5/10/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Yep, it has a brand new turbo buster on it.  I gots ta git me wunnadem.

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Rich Thomas]

Yep, it has a brand new turbo buster on it.  I gots ta git me wunnadem.

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 

Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique

[andrew strasfogel]

Why is this thread labeled OT???  I think it is very much ON topic!

On 5/10/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

If that's the case, then sounds like the right way to do it!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 3:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique


I don't think they're "power" or "back" flushing anything.
The ones I've seen and had done hook up in-line with the tranny cooler
lines.  I believe the tranny's really doing all the pumping.  The
machine just has a couple reservoirs for clean and dirty oil and you can
see the nasty junk come out and the good stuff go in, and you proceed
until the oil coming out looks nice and clean. Much better in my opinion
that simply changing maybe 1/2 the fluid and leaving the rest old and
nasty in the torque converter.  (since most cars don't allow you to
drain it like the Mercedes).

Levi

On 5/10/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Brian,
>
> I'm also suspicious of the flushing.  I've heard bad things about
> back-flushing or power flushing transmissions.  They're probably
> correct on the difference from the manual quantity.  If you didn't pay

> for it and no harm was done, I wouldn't worry about it.  If you're
> paying for the fluid, I'd ask that they don't flush it next time, and
> I'd certainly not agree to any back flush or power flush.
>
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> Meade Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD 287k miles
> '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
> '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:52 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique
>
>
> I'm taking the wife's Honda CRV into the dealer for an oil change (we
> got several free oil changes as part of the deal of purchasing
> vehicle). And I'm going to ask them what it would take to make the
> vehicle capable of running E-85.
>
> I'm going to run something past y'all that they told me last time.
> They changed the trannie fluid, and I noticed on the invoice that it
> took like 12 quarts or so (maybe more, I forget) - a lot more than I
> thought it should.
>
> Their explanation is that they always flush the trannie when changing
> fluid, and they actually use fresh trannie fluid to do the flushing. I

> really question this, as it seems very wasteful. In addition, he told
> me the capacity on the thing was more than the manual says, explaning
> that it's because the manual quotes capacity for simply changing the
> fluid without completely emptying it (torque converter, etc.).
>
> Sound fishy? Or not?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
> 2000 Honda CRV
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] 126 front supension bushes

[M.Afzaal Khan]

- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Were the shocks comfort or heavy duty rated? Most European cars came
with heavy duty shocks as standard and the ride is much firmer than US
delivered cars that all came with comfort rated shocks.

Hi
I believe the new  shocks are the standard European, as were the old ones, 
as you mentioned   the ride would be softer with the US spec shocks, but not 
shipped here .
To me it seems like the alignment setup is not up to spec,  too much 
feedback at wheel, maybe, as  the front wheel spreader bar was not used to 
set up the alignment someting is amiss .  certainlly will run it more to see 
if the bushes 'settle' in for a more compliant ride

thanks
MAK


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] this seller is real intellegent

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I already had it cleaned out and it was fine for several weeks.  What I 
have now was not just a little residue from before, its as bad as before 
so its a new contamination episode.


Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:


You may need to flush it out a time or two more to get all the residue out.
I had one zf hp22 trans that had been off a car for a few years. Took 
the valve body off and cleaned the daylights out of everything. Still 
needed to flush it about three times until the pink quit coming back.


Do the flush routine of remove the tranny cooler return line, aim it to 
a 5 gal bucket with 1 gal marks on it. have someone crank the thing and 
let the bucket fill a gal, shut it off, top off the fluid, repeat  till 
the fluid runs clean. Drive it for a while and when the pink comes back, 
do it again.Eventually it will stay clean.


--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, y'all remember the saga of the pepto in the tranny of my 190D. 
Swapped the radiator out, got all the junk cleaned out and tranny fluid 
looks fine.  Drove it for about 3 weeks and no more pepto.  Car has been 
sitting for about 3 weeks or so and I just now checked today and its 
full of pepto again.  Before I was loosing some coolant but this time, 
the coolant is just fine, have not lost any.  The only thing I can come 
up with is that we have had lots of rain the last couple of weeks. Is 
there some way that rain water can get into the tranny while the car is 
just sitting?  This one has me stumped!!  Maybe my first radiator wasnt 
bad after all.  Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of 
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it?
 




___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] VIN check please

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Vehicle History Checklist
Vehicle Description WDBAB33A4EA040053
Title Check No records found
Problem Check No records found
Odometer Check No records found
Vehicle Information No records found
Full History Records found

 Title Check
Your vehicle checks out!

Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found
Damaged No Damaged Records Found
Fire Damage No Fire Damage Records Found
Grey Market No Grey Market Records Found
Hail Damage No Hail Damage Records Found
Insurance Loss No Insurance Loss Records Found
Junk No Junk Records Found
Rebuilt/Rebuildable No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Records Found
Salvage No Salvage Records Found


 Problem Check
Your vehicle checks out!

NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle No NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle Records Found
Fire Damage Incident No Fire Damage Incident Records Found
Frame Damage No Frame Damage Records Found
Major Damage No Major Damage Records Found
Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon Records Found
Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon Records Found
Odometer Problem No Odometer Problem Records Found
Salvage Auction No Salvage Auction Records Found
Water Damage No Water Damage Records Found


 Vehicle Information
Your vehicle checks out!

Accident Data No Accident Data Records Found
Corrected Title No Corrected Title Records Found
Driver Education No Driver Education Records Found
Duplicate Title No Duplicate Title Records Found
Emission/Safety Inspection No Emission/Safety Inspection Records Found
Livery Use No Livery Use Records Found
Government Use No Government Use Records Found
Police Use No Police Use Records Found
Rental/Fleet No Rental/Fleet Records Found
Repossessed No Repossessed Records Found
Taxi Use No Taxi Use Records Found
Theft No Theft Records Found


 Vehicle History Records
We have searched the Experian Automotive National Vehicle Database of 
insurance, DMV, and auto auction information and found the following 13 
records for this 1984 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SERIES 300D-T. Note the 
highlighted rows for potential issues that could affect the value of 
this vehicle.


Date Location Mileage Description
1993-07-16 indianapolis, IN 80689 odometer reading from dmv
1993-08-31 indianapolis, IN  title
1996-05-22 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
1997-07-31 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
1998-05-26 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
1999-06-03 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
2000-05-05 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
2002-08-05 indianapolis, IN  registration event/renewal
2003-01-28 fort wayne, IN  registration event/renewal
2004-02-04 fort wayne, IN  registration event/renewal
2006-01-17 fort wayne, IN 214000 title
2006-02-10 hamilton, IN 215046 title
2006-02-10 hamilton, IN  registration event/renewal


Glossary of Descriptions Found for This Vehicle (full glossary)
Description Full Definition

Odometer Reading from DMV Odometer reading recorded by the state 
Department of Motor Vehicles.

Title Vehicle had title registration event reported by state DMV.
Renewal Vehicle had registration renewal event reported by state DMV.



Bruce Lulfs wrote:


WDBAB33A4EA040053

Bruce & Sandy

Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea 
Our Home Web site

http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/



___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

thats probably a good idea

OK Don wrote:


How about drying out the tranny cooler part, leaving it open, or
connected to a jar, then filling and pressurizing the radiator - see
any water comes out the tranny cooler line connections --



Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

will have to check that

Peter Frederick wrote:

If the vent is missing from the top of the tranny, condensate/rainwater 
from the AC can get it if it drips on top of the tranny.  Shouldn't, 
but anything is possible, I've discovered.


Peter


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] WET TRANNNNNNNY

[RELNGSON]

<>

Did you leave 'er in the crik again? Or is she upside down with the trans pan 
off?

RLE 

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

You may need to flush it out a time or two more to get all the residue out.
I had one zf hp22 trans that had been off a car for a few years. Took 
the valve body off and cleaned the daylights out of everything. Still 
needed to flush it about three times until the pink quit coming back.


Do the flush routine of remove the tranny cooler return line, aim it to 
a 5 gal bucket with 1 gal marks on it. have someone crank the thing and 
let the bucket fill a gal, shut it off, top off the fluid, repeat  till 
the fluid runs clean. Drive it for a while and when the pink comes back, 
do it again.Eventually it will stay clean.


--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
OK, y'all remember the saga of the pepto in the tranny of my 190D. 
Swapped the radiator out, got all the junk cleaned out and tranny fluid 
looks fine.  Drove it for about 3 weeks and no more pepto.  Car has been 
sitting for about 3 weeks or so and I just now checked today and its 
full of pepto again.  Before I was loosing some coolant but this time, 
the coolant is just fine, have not lost any.  The only thing I can come 
up with is that we have had lots of rain the last couple of weeks. Is 
there some way that rain water can get into the tranny while the car is 
just sitting?  This one has me stumped!!  Maybe my first radiator wasnt 
bad after all.  Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of 
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it?
  

[MBZ] VIN check please

[Bruce Lulfs]

WDBAB33A4EA040053

Bruce & Sandy

Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea 
Our Home Web site
http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[OK Don]

How about drying out the tranny cooler part, leaving it open, or
connected to a jar, then filling and pressurizing the radiator - see
any water comes out the tranny cooler line connections --


Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Torque Peak Vs. Peak Efficiency

[David Brodbeck]

Kevin wrote:

The number I always heard in american gassers was peak torque plus 10% was
where maximum efficiency was found. No idea about anything specific from
MBZ.
  


I suspect for gas engines it's more complicated than that -- it would 
depend on throttle position, which would depend on load.  Larger 
throttle openings tend to be more efficient due to lower pumping 
losses.  This is one of the reasons why an overdrive gear improves fuel 
economy on a gasoline engine, even though it usually results in the 
engine turning at an RPM well below its torque peak.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back

[Peter Frederick]

If the vent is missing from the top of the tranny, condensate/rainwater 
from the AC can get it if it drips on top of the tranny.  Shouldn't, 
but anything is possible, I've discovered.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Torque Peak Vs. Peak Efficiency

[Kevin]

On Wed, May 10, 2006 at 07:57:37PM -0400, John Ervine wrote:
> Rick Knoble wrote:
> > I have a question. Is it safe to assume that a given engine will produce 
> > the maximum number of revolutions per unit of fuel consumed at its torque 
> > peak? I.E. When is an engine its most efficient? Just curious.
> 
> I recall hearing that Mercedes recommends shifting at 2/3 of max RPM in each 
> gear for maximum fuel efficiency, but I could be making numbers up in my 
> head. 
> I've seen it happen before.

The number I always heard in american gassers was peak torque plus 10% was
where maximum efficiency was found. No idea about anything specific from
MBZ.

K