Re: [MBZ] Need windshield reservoir

[Desert Rat]

OK now, you got a taillight or a washer reservoir coolant insert?

On 8/21/06, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I think I got one but A. it has been repaired by me and B. it's located a
long way away.
They are a relatively rare item and therefore not cheap.

- Original Message -
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Need windshield reservoir


> Speaking of needs, does anyone have a used right rear taillight lens for
> my
> 1983 300TD wagon they are willing to part with?  I will make it worth your
> while if the lens isn't cracked...
>
> Andrew
> 1983 300TD
> 1985 300CD
>
>
>
> On 8/17/06, Desert Rat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, you're right. 92 500SL but all I need is the stainless steel
>> coolant exchanger  which is found on a number of MB's with a coolant
>> coil in the reservoir and then, all I need is about a 5 inch piece.
>>
>>
>> On 8/17/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> > On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:28:44 -0700 "Desert Rat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Anyone have an old reservoir laying around, preferably leaking or
>> > > cracked? All I need is the coolant tubing which sits inside.
>> >
>> > Might help if you told us which are it's for.
>> >
>> >
>> > Craig
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> John Freer
>> Palm Springs, CA
>> 1992 500SEL 143K "Stardust"
>> 1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"
>> 1992 500SL 109K "The Flying Plum"
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
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>
>
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500SEL 143K "Stardust"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"
1992 500SL 109K "The Flying Plum"

Re: [MBZ] Door locking system

[Bill Gallagher]

I had a similar problem on my 300 TD... best to check each actuator at 
the door, my passenger door front and rear was not working ...check the 
fuel door, OK, just in case the vacuum tank OK, the rear passage door, 
OK and the front passenger door was bad
   To check the lines from one door to another, I plugged one end and 
the other end connected up the Mity Vac ... If vacuum in line, It's fine 
.


Bill
1981 300 TD






[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
In a message dated 8/19/2006 2:15:04 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I THINK  I've tested the door locking system with the Mity Vac.  What I found 
 
is that the door actuators on the front passenger door and the two rear  
doors 
leaked vacuum on the upper green striped (unlocked) side and held  vacuum on 
the lower red striped (locked) side.


Do they need to be  replaced and could this be coincidence that all three 
fail 
in the same  way?





Mike,
 
Depending on where you hooked up your mitivac, you could be reading the  
common lines which originate at the sliding valve in the driver's door.   One 
line, parallel to all 3 doors and trunk does the unlocking.  The other  line, 
parallel to all 3 doors, the trunk, and the fuel door does the  locking.  The most 
common leaker is the one that locks the fuel door, in my  opinion.  It is a 
single diaphragm, spring loaded to unlock when the vacuum  goes away.  NOTE:  
This the best way to see if and when your vacuum  has deteriorated on your 
locked Benz.  Try to open the fuel door.   when the vacuum has deteriorated to the 
point where the spring can overcome the  vacuum (about 2 inches Hg) the door 
will open.  The doors should still be  locked and stay locked 
 
The sliding valve is often the culprit that lets the vacuum leak out  in a 
few hours or overnight.  Do NOT buy the generic replacement sliding  valve which 
is less than $20.  
 
Regards,  


Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 145 K  miles


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Re: [MBZ] Need windshield reservoir

[Hendrik Riessen]

I think I got one but A. it has been repaired by me and B. it's located a 
long way away.

They are a relatively rare item and therefore not cheap.

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Need windshield reservoir


Speaking of needs, does anyone have a used right rear taillight lens for 
my

1983 300TD wagon they are willing to part with?  I will make it worth your
while if the lens isn't cracked...

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300CD



On 8/17/06, Desert Rat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Yeah, you're right. 92 500SL but all I need is the stainless steel
coolant exchanger  which is found on a number of MB's with a coolant
coil in the reservoir and then, all I need is about a 5 inch piece.


On 8/17/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:28:44 -0700 "Desert Rat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> > Anyone have an old reservoir laying around, preferably leaking or
> > cracked? All I need is the coolant tubing which sits inside.
>
> Might help if you told us which are it's for.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500SEL 143K "Stardust"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"
1992 500SL 109K "The Flying Plum"

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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D Fuel Hose Q

[Jim Cathey]

Too bad it didn't let me know before I filled up last week.


Oh, and the trick here (on diesels only!) is to stick the
shop vac hose loosely in the filler to draw a partial vacuum
on the tank.  Doesn't leak then when you pull the line off
the bottom.  The diesel vapors aren't explosive.  Never do
this on gasoline!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 115 300D Fuel Hose Q

[Jim Cathey]

I am assuming this is about where the feed line from the fuel tank
comes out and that I need to change the rubber bit that goes from
the tank to the metal line.


Good assumption, both of our 114/115 cars have needed new line
there.  But, it's not standard line, it's two different diameters:
big on the tank down to small on the line.  Rusty has 'em, I'm sure.
Or, you could do as I did and cut the end off of a bad cigar hose
and use that instead.  I did this because I had a half-bad cigar hose,
and was curious.

There are several lines on and off the tank, including vents, etc.
If one is shot due to age, they all will be about in equal need of
replacement.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[David Brodbeck]

If you don't get it sorted out here, try the Swedish Bricks mailing
list.  http://www.swedishbricks.net/

Dave Wakin wrote:
> My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then 
> dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is thinking 
> the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have any 
> thoughts as to what the problem may be?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Wakin 
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>   

Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

First thing is to check the error codes ( reader built into the car ) if 
none, check coil primary and secondary resistance. Chances are, the 
coil, power stage , or rpm sensor are going out. ( rpm sensor will have 
a stored code )


--Robert

Dave Wakin wrote:
My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then 
dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is thinking 
the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have any 
thoughts as to what the problem may be?


Thanks

Dave Wakin 



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Re: [MBZ] Looking for Biocide - *was* Throttle Linkage

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

I get the good stuff for killing nasties at the diesel pump shop. 1 jug 
of Killem treats some insane amount of fuel about 1900 gallons. costs 
around $25 good stuff ( probably one of the only useful things that FPPF 
produces , don't ever use their Polar Power if it's real cold out 
...unless you have a friend with a tow truck) http://www.fppf.com/killem.asp


--Robert

Marshall Booth wrote:

LarryT wrote:
  

Craig,
Along with the usual places to look for Biocide - like truck stops & 
FLAPS - try boat/marine supply stores - WestMarine is the biggest and you 
can easily order stuff on the internet.



And companies that rent/sell/repair farm or construction machinery.

You won't need a biocide as long as you sequester all the water from the 
fuel several times a year! No water - NO bugs.


Marshall
  

Re: [MBZ] 115 300D Fuel Hose Q

[Potter, Tom E]

Are you sure it is not overflow from refueling. The overflow hose runs
out the bottom. Notice the small hole in the bottom of the refueling
area behind the gas flap. It connects to a drain hose.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 3:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 115 300D Fuel Hose Q

Just noticed that my car is dripping deisel fuel from the area sort of
behind the right rear tire but ahead of the
fuel tank. I am assuming this is about where the feed line from the fuel
tank comes out and that I need to change
the rubber bit that goes from the tank to the metal line. I have not
crawled under yet so I don't know what I am
going to find. Is the hose something special with a fitting on the end
that I need to order or is it just ordinary
fuel hose and clamps? Is there a return line as well?  Not leaking bad
but is oozing as I get a spot on the floor -
but not a real puddle. Just filled so a full tank. Too bad it didn't let
me know before I filled up last week.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Mitch Haley]

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> which one, he had 2
> 

The one you gave him and immediately regretted.

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

yep

Marshall Booth wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower 
power/boost.


Not on a '87 190D 2.5 turbo or an 86-'87 300D/TD/SDL!! Might cause a 
problem with all the '90-95 diesels that go into "limp home" when the 
EGR isn't working!


Marshall




Would help the I read the "Subject" line!

Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Looking for Biocide - *was* Throttle Linkage

[Marshall Booth]

LarryT wrote:

Craig,
Along with the usual places to look for Biocide - like truck stops & 
FLAPS - try boat/marine supply stores - WestMarine is the biggest and you 
can easily order stuff on the internet.


And companies that rent/sell/repair farm or construction machinery.

You won't need a biocide as long as you sequester all the water from the 
fuel several times a year! No water - NO bugs.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Luther Gulseth]

The exhaust of the larger cylinder is directly piped into the intake of the 
smaller cylinder.  I'm told that this is a sure sign that it is a 2 stage.  
Also, it is rated for 175 psi, another sure sign.  Single stage compressors 
are usually 125psi or so.  I'll post a few pictures this evening if it's not 
storming too much.

Luther

R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> The other question is "are you sure of what you have?" For example, I have 
an old DeVilbis 2 cylinder compressor -
> 1947. It is not 2 stage, just 2 cylinder. I don't know what cfm it is but 
it has a good sized head and a huge old
> electric motor rated at 2 hp if I recall. It used to be set to shut off at 
160# but I lowered that to about 125# as
> I didn't think I needed that much pressure and thought it should be a bit 
easier on the old machine. I think it has
> a 60 gallon tank and it pumps away for a bit but no where near an hour.
> 
> Randy
> 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[archer]

Thanks, Randy.  Think I'll stick with standard compressors from now on too.
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. I had one of the portable Coleman 
units that was supposed to be "contractor"
quality. It didn't last very long before it broke the connecting rod and 
hammered itself to junk before I could get
it shut off. Just beyond the warranty period and they declined to offer me 
any assistance. I am not a contractor
and it had only been used a few times to power my brad nailer.  Call me 
unhappy. I won't buy any more of their
junk. The store that I bought it from was much better. They gave me full 
credit for it and I bought one of their
house brand units - made in the far east somewhere. It is oiled rather 
than oil-less. It is much quieter, thank
goodness. I have had no trouble with it, but again, have hardly used it so 
not a strong testimonial for its quality
either. Store is a Canadian chain that does not exist down south so not 
too relevant to most of you all - Princess

Auto.
Randy


Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately takes 
a

long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has some
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only turned on
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm 
wondering

if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry
crankcase.  All info appreciated.
Gerry

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[archer]

Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately
takes a
long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has
some
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only
turned on
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm
wondering
if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry
crankcase.  All info appreciated.

Gerry


If it's like my (retired medical equipment) air compressor/drier/vacuum
pump,
which is oilless, it's a normal type of piston, but it uses a sealed
for life
crank bearing and a weird teflon ring on the piston.  You must buy a new
piston when the ring fails, in my case.  I had to do this, turning my
free (and slow, but extremely quiet in its lead-lined vault) compressor
into a $40 unit.  Takes about 10 minutes to pump up the tank from
scratch.

Most of the time I use a HF $100 cheapie that I bought when I needed
more
air volume.  I also have sufficient fittings that I can plumb them
together
so that they both fill both tanks together, makes quite a difference
when
I need a lot of air.
-- Jim

--
That's probably what this is like.  I'll take it apart and see.  Thanks, 
Jim.
Gerry 

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[archer]

archer wrote:
Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately takes 
a

long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has some
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only turned 
on
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm 
wondering

if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry
crankcase.  All info appreciated.
Gerry



Have you read the manual to see what the manufacturer recommends?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto


The manual shows an exploded view of the compressor, parts list, etc.; but 
doesn't offer recommendations.  If this compressor is going to need a new 
piston this frequently, I'll probably spend a little more and get a regular 
compressor.  It has a 2 HP motor, so a small standard compressor might work 
OK if belt driven. HF has one for $100.  I wonder what kind oil is least 
likely to attack plastic?  It might be worthwhile to try that first.
Gerry 

[MBZ] 115 300D Fuel Hose Q

[R A Bennell]

Just noticed that my car is dripping deisel fuel from the area sort of behind 
the right rear tire but ahead of the
fuel tank. I am assuming this is about where the feed line from the fuel tank 
comes out and that I need to change
the rubber bit that goes from the tank to the metal line. I have not crawled 
under yet so I don't know what I am
going to find. Is the hose something special with a fitting on the end that I 
need to order or is it just ordinary
fuel hose and clamps? Is there a return line as well?  Not leaking bad but is 
oozing as I get a spot on the floor -
but not a real puddle. Just filled so a full tank. Too bad it didn't let me 
know before I filled up last week.

Randy

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[Jim Cathey]

What cork?  What hose?  Sounds like dangerous work for an amateur...


The hose (either) to the monovalve, whatever you can reach easily.
In the Albatross I found a 3/8" socket extension wedged into a coolant
hose to block it off.  Whatever works, in other words.

Some have also used vise grips to (gently!) pinch shut a rubber hose
in the middle.  I can't say I really like the sound of that, especially
if it's going to be for some time.  You'd probably better plan on new
hose there if you did this.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 201 status

[Jim Cathey]

I removed the rubber dust seals from one of the calipers, but I was
unable to pull the pucks out of the caliper.  There was enough
corrosion on the pucks to make them very stiff.

I then tried to make a puck-removal tool using my spare master
cylinder and some brake hose pieces.  Too messy and unweildy, as it
turns out.  (But I did find out that the inside of the brake hose
fittings is coarsly threaded, I was trying to flange together a
male-male hose out of my bad pieces of hose.)  So I moved on to Plan
B.  I'd bought a spare thrift-shop grease gun some time back.  The
fitting on it has exactly the same threading as the brake calipers.
It was missing the T handle and the grease nipple fitting, but looked
like a high-quality unit, and is much the same as my old grease gun
that used to be my grandfather's.  It's stamped "B-K Service Products
No. 4-817."

Anyway, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the old grease out of it,
and disassembled it completely in order to do so.  I found that the
sliding 3"x1/4" 'nut' from a Mercedes transmission crossbar mount
threaded nearly perfectly on to the end of the grease plunger shaft
(even though it was certainly a metric/US mismatch), making a pretty
serviceable T-handle for the plunger.  With this missing piece
replaced the grease gun was ready for service.  I removed the plunger
and end cap, leaving just the open grease tube.  I threaded the
recalcitrant caliper on the end of the fitting and filled the grease
tube with water, keeping the open end up of course.  With the bleeder
opened I pumped until water was coming out, then closed the bleeder
and pumped until one of the pucks popped out.  (It's best if you clamp
the other one down so it doesn't move.)  The tricky part is getting
the second puck out.  I found a large metal fender washer that fit
over the bore in the caliper body, but wasn't so big as to not seal
against the puck's bore.  I cut a length of bicycle inner tube and
stuffed the washer into it like an envelope, then put another washer
on top and clamped this sandwich to the bore, with the exposed rubber
against the bore's lip.  This sealed the open bore, allowing the other
puck to be pumped out.  I then blew compressed air through the grease
gun to dry it out, I don't want it to rust.

With the caliper bits in a bucket of water I first carefully pried out
the rubber sealing rings and then used a small piece of 600 grit
wet-and-dry sandpaper to clean off all the corrosion on the pucks and
inside the bores.  The metal parts cleaned up very nicely, and the
rubber was still 'live' and undamaged.  (As are the dust caps, I
cleaned off all the rubber in the water.)  I used compressed air to
dry everything to prevent rust.  I took particular care to blow out
the bleeder passage, then used the sealing washer to cap off the bore
that it empties into and blew into it again, thus drying the
between-bore passage.  I'd say that the caliper refurbished very
nicely.  A little brake fluid makes an excellent reassembly lubricant,
things went together smoothly.

The other caliper went exactly the same, though of course much faster
since all the tools and techniques were in place.  After that I took
off one parking brake, as an experiment.  I found some spring bits in
there, I think they are extras.  (Broken-off junk?)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[andrew strasfogel]

What cork?  What hose?  Sounds like dangerous work for an amateur...

On 8/21/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve
> insert, regardless of the ACC setting.  The AC occasionally works but
> only
> for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode.  My
> theory is
> it's the monovalve itself...

So many things it could be.  First of all see if the monovalve is
getting
power when heat's supposed to be off.  You may also wire its coil
directly
to 12V to see if it shuts off water flow then.  Ought to measure its
coil
resistance to be sure it's not open.

Monovalve bodies fail.  ACC pushbutton units fail.  Fuses fail.  Etc.

In a pinch you can cork off the hose 'til you can get it fixed.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[Jim Cathey]

I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve
insert, regardless of the ACC setting.  The AC occasionally works but 
only
for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode.  My 
theory is

it's the monovalve itself...


So many things it could be.  First of all see if the monovalve is 
getting
power when heat's supposed to be off.  You may also wire its coil 
directly
to 12V to see if it shuts off water flow then.  Ought to measure its 
coil

resistance to be sure it's not open.

Monovalve bodies fail.  ACC pushbutton units fail.  Fuses fail.  Etc.

In a pinch you can cork off the hose 'til you can get it fixed.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[R A Bennell]

I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. I had one of the portable Coleman units 
that was supposed to be "contractor"
quality. It didn't last very long before it broke the connecting rod and 
hammered itself to junk before I could get
it shut off. Just beyond the warranty period and they declined to offer me any 
assistance. I am not a contractor
and it had only been used a few times to power my brad nailer.  Call me 
unhappy. I won't buy any more of their
junk. The store that I bought it from was much better. They gave me full credit 
for it and I bought one of their
house brand units - made in the far east somewhere. It is oiled rather than 
oil-less. It is much quieter, thank
goodness. I have had no trouble with it, but again, have hardly used it so not 
a strong testimonial for its quality
either. Store is a Canadian chain that does not exist down south so not too 
relevant to most of you all - Princess
Auto.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of archer
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 11:57 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining


Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately takes a
long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has some
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only turned on
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm wondering
if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry
crankcase.  All info appreciated.
Gerry

- Original Message -
From: "Frederick Moir" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi, All.
  My compressor has one of these. Bot it from HF. approx $10. It installs in
place of the lower drain and picks up its' signal from the unloader/on/off
switch assy. pressure line.
  Once a year cleanout is reqd. on mine.
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  84 190D
  85 300TD
  87 190Dt

Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  : http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank? I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold & FRL inside & would
rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me
that the tank might be due for draining.
-joe


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Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[R A Bennell]

The other question is "are you sure of what you have?" For example, I have an 
old DeVilbis 2 cylinder compressor -
1947. It is not 2 stage, just 2 cylinder. I don't know what cfm it is but it 
has a good sized head and a huge old
electric motor rated at 2 hp if I recall. It used to be set to shut off at 160# 
but I lowered that to about 125# as
I didn't think I needed that much pressure and thought it should be a bit 
easier on the old machine. I think it has
a 60 gallon tank and it pumps away for a bit but no where near an hour.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Luther Gulseth
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:19 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks


Ok, here's the question.  How quickly should a 7CFM dual stage air compressor 
fill a 60gal tank to 120 psi?  I
think this compressor is in need of a rebuild.

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 15:09:47 -0500, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Attempting to read the 40-50 year old name plates leaves for some doubt.  The 
> compressor is a 2 stage 7
CFM/175psi and I believe the motor is 5hp dual voltage.  220v @ 9 amps and 110v 
@ 18amps.
>
> On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 12:52:33 -0500, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>> I've got a good 60 gallon air compressor for less than $200.
>>
>> CFM and pressure ratings (and maybe motor HP) are also of interest
>> to our kind of people.  Wasn't this a decent-sized one?
>>
>> -- Jim
>>
>>
>
>
>



--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[andrew strasfogel]

I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve
insert, regardless of the ACC setting.  The AC occasionally works but only
for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode.  My theory is
it's the monovalve itself...

1983 300TD


On 8/21/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn?

Usually.  There can also be problems with the sealing surfaces
inside the monovalve body, so you want to examine everything
carefully.

If the system's not heating above ambient (and make sure you let the
heat soak dissipate before checking the vent temps) then you don't
have a leaking monovalve.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[Jim Cathey]

Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn?


Usually.  There can also be problems with the sealing surfaces
inside the monovalve body, so you want to examine everything
carefully.

If the system's not heating above ambient (and make sure you let the
heat soak dissipate before checking the vent temps) then you don't
have a leaking monovalve.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[Jeff Zedic]

archer wrote:
Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately takes a 
long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has some 
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only turned on 
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm wondering 
if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry 
crankcase.  All info appreciated.

Gerry



Have you read the manual to see what the manufacturer recommends?

Jeff Zedic
Toronto

Re: [MBZ] jabba looks on with approval is victory is ours!

[Jeff Zedic]

Gary Hurst wrote:

my newest hobby -- US soccer.

here i savor the moment of our victory!

http://www.digital-diva.smugmug.com/gallery/1252047/7/89485301/Large
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I thought it was Jerry Garcia!

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[andrew strasfogel]

Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn?

On 8/21/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


key word, shouldnt

OK Don wrote:

> It shouldn't be - it's almost new.
>
> On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>pressures seem OK to me.  You need to pull the monovalve and check to
>>see if the diaphram is torn.
>>
>
>
>

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Jim Cathey]

Are you saying to remove the head to visually inspect the valves?


Yep.


How should I replace or reseal the head gasket?


Any way that works!  This is a lot softer duty than an engine
head gasket.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[Jim Cathey]

Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately 
takes a
long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has 
some
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only 
turned on
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm 
wondering

if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry
crankcase.  All info appreciated.


If it's like my (retired medical equipment) air compressor/drier/vacuum 
pump,
which is oilless, it's a normal type of piston, but it uses a sealed 
for life

crank bearing and a weird teflon ring on the piston.  You must buy a new
piston when the ring fails, in my case.  I had to do this, turning my
free (and slow, but extremely quiet in its lead-lined vault) compressor
into a $40 unit.  Takes about 10 minutes to pump up the tank from 
scratch.


Most of the time I use a HF $100 cheapie that I bought when I needed 
more
air volume.  I also have sufficient fittings that I can plumb them 
together
so that they both fill both tanks together, makes quite a difference 
when

I need a lot of air.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[archer]

Have a Coleman cheapy compressor with (20?) gallon tank that lately takes a 
long time to build up pressure.  Instead of a regular piston it has some 
sort of plastic piston from what I've been told.  Since its only turned on 
about once per month to air up tires, and only two years old, I'm wondering 
if the piston simply needs some sort of lubrication since it has a dry 
crankcase.  All info appreciated.

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Frederick Moir" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Hi, All.
 My compressor has one of these. Bot it from HF. approx $10. It installs in 
place of the lower drain and picks up its' signal from the unloader/on/off 
switch assy. pressure line.

 Once a year cleanout is reqd. on mine.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 84 190D
 85 300TD
 87 190Dt

Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 : http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank? I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold & FRL inside & would
rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me
that the tank might be due for draining.
-joe 

Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Steve MacSween]

True, however I would also mention that with age the contacts on the relay
panel can become a bit corroded and cause weird behaviour. First step is to
pull the relay and clean the contacts, to see if this improves matters.

This is an often-talked about problem on the Volvo lists, but I never
experienced it myself on 3 cars I had with the LH system.

Mac

on 8/21/06 11:13 AM, Zeitgeist at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> A'yup, I'd definitely suspect the fuel pump relay.
> 
> On 8/21/06, Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> 
>> Relay?
>> Volvos are known for having bad relays.
>> 
>> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
> '87 300TD intercooler #22 (217k)
> '84 300D (216k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Steve MacSween]

If his car has the LH engine management system (I say that because some
later 740s had Motronic, I believe), then I would immediately wonder about
the Mass Air Sensor. The idle control valve (aka idle control motor) could
also produce similar symptoms, if it's completely plugged up. (There are
other possibilities as well, especially if the car is a Turbo model.)

As a preliminary test, with the key OFF unplug the Mass Air Sensor and see
how the car runs. It should idle fine and run a bit sluggishly (but evenly)
up to about 40 mph, probably no more. This is 'limp home' mode. If it runs
badly, then something else is wrong.

Oh, don't forget the blindly obvious (plugged fuel filter and even a dirty
tank intake sock). 

Also, that car has an in-tank prepump. If the prepump goes (very common with
age) then the main pump has to work too hard and eventually dies (or can't
deliver enough fuel, esp. on the Turbos) and produces drivability problems.

Good luck with it.  That is all from (now quite distant) memory. I hated the
LH system. About 8 things can produce any given symptom, but I must say that
the last Volvo wrench I had, had a real knack for sniffing out the right one
to attack first. I sure didn't

Mac

on 8/21/06 9:45 AM, Dave Wakin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then
> dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is thinking
> the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have any
> thoughts as to what the problem may be?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave Wakin 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[Frederick Moir]

Hi, All.
  My compressor has one of these. Bot it from HF. approx $10. It installs in 
place of the lower drain and picks up its' signal from the unloader/on/off 
switch assy. pressure line.
  Once a year cleanout is reqd. on mine.
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  84 190D
  85 300TD
  87 190Dt

Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  : http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank? I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold & FRL inside & would
rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me
that the tank might be due for draining.

-joe

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 08:41:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Uhhh, yeah brain fart. Should read once a WEEK.
  ~500 miles a week...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 17:58:07 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

you must not drive much.

Curt Raymond wrote:

> Not bragging but, the truckstop on my commute is back down to $2.99.
> Paid $2.87 this morning at the cheapie place near where we eat 
breakfast.
> 
> Had a guy try to buy my 190D this morning. I quoted the rube $8k, 
figured if he'd
> pay that he deserved what he got. I really like only filling up once 
a month though...
> 
> -Curt
> 
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



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Subject: Re: [MBZ]

Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Zeitgeist]

A'yup, I'd definitely suspect the fuel pump relay.

On 8/21/06, Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Relay?
Volvos are known for having bad relays.

Casey

Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (217k)
'84 300D (216k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Rich Thomas]

Negra Modelo is the name of this beer, to be (politically+literally) 
correct.  Whatever, it is kinda tasty.


--R

Potter, Tom E wrote:

I fancy that Negro Modelo myself. It sure goes good with a bowl of
"red."

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

Nothing in the world smells better and is more relaxing than roasting
chiles
I ususlly get a bag, raost in while pounding down Negro Modelo, and then

freeze most of the finished product for use throughout the year.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 157K
'87 Acura Legend  177K
Still waiting on '72 350SL  78K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "mercedes" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico


  

Bought a 30# bag of mild chile peppers (my wife can't handle anything
hotter) which turned out to weigh 40#. Because of rain and lightning,


the
  

store's roaster out front was shut down, so I've been roasting them


under
  

our oven's broiler this afternoon. It takes a while.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[Potter, Tom E]

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but it probably works like the old
steam traps--some sort of float inside that lifts the valve until the
liquid level drops the float again.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Knight
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:44 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

: http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank?  I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold & FRL inside & would
rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me
that the tank might be due for draining.

-joe

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Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yep

Marshall Booth wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower 
power/boost.



Not on a '87 190D 2.5 turbo or an 86-'87 300D/TD/SDL!! Might cause a 
problem with all the '90-95 diesels that go into "limp home" when the 
EGR isn't working!


Marshall


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] Speaking of compressors: automatic draining

[Joe Knight]

: http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank?  I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch, manifold & FRL inside & would
rather not have to hike out to the unit every time it occurs to me
that the tank might be due for draining.

-joe

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

key word, shouldnt

OK Don wrote:


It shouldn't be - it's almost new.

On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


pressures seem OK to me.  You need to pull the monovalve and check to
see if the diaphram is torn.







--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

which one, he had 2

Mitch Haley wrote:


"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:


In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower
power/boost.



I forget, what was wrong with Toad's 2.5?

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Dave Wakin]

Thanks Trampas - I will pass this along to him

Dave Wakin

- Original Message - 
From: "Trampas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues



Relay?
Volvos are known for having bad relays.

First step is to determine if the problem is fuel or electrical. To do 
this,

when the vehicle will not start try spraying carb cleaner in intake to see
if it will start. If it does check the fuel pump power and fuel pressure. 
If

they are fine check injector pulsing with noid light.

For electrical check and see if the positive side of coil is getting power
when it will not start. If so then check to see if plugs are getting 
spark.

Then check to see if the injectors are triggering.

Doing this will quickly narrow down your problem.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dave Wakin
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:45 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then
dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is 
thinking


the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have 
any


thoughts as to what the problem may be?

Thanks

Dave Wakin


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Trampas]

Relay? 
Volvos are known for having bad relays. 

First step is to determine if the problem is fuel or electrical. To do this,
when the vehicle will not start try spraying carb cleaner in intake to see
if it will start. If it does check the fuel pump power and fuel pressure. If
they are fine check injector pulsing with noid light. 

For electrical check and see if the positive side of coil is getting power
when it will not start. If so then check to see if plugs are getting spark.
Then check to see if the injectors are triggering. 

Doing this will quickly narrow down your problem. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dave Wakin
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:45 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then 
dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is thinking

the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have any

thoughts as to what the problem may be?

Thanks

Dave Wakin 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Potter, Tom E]

I fancy that Negro Modelo myself. It sure goes good with a bowl of
"red."

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

Nothing in the world smells better and is more relaxing than roasting
chiles
I ususlly get a bag, raost in while pounding down Negro Modelo, and then

freeze most of the finished product for use throughout the year.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 157K
'87 Acura Legend  177K
Still waiting on '72 350SL  78K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "mercedes" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico


> Bought a 30# bag of mild chile peppers (my wife can't handle anything
> hotter) which turned out to weigh 40#. Because of rain and lightning,
the
> store's roaster out front was shut down, so I've been roasting them
under
> our oven's broiler this afternoon. It takes a while.
>
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] must see TV

[andrew strasfogel]

I doubt he would blame the J*ws since he is one himself.
Not to mention a Canadian (strike 2).

; of course..


On 8/20/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


No, the fans hit on the Shat.

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> Tonight at 9 is the roast of william shatner, the shat is going to hit
> the fan.
>
> ___
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>
>


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Re: [MBZ] Need windshield reservoir

[andrew strasfogel]

Speaking of needs, does anyone have a used right rear taillight lens for my
1983 300TD wagon they are willing to part with?  I will make it worth your
while if the lens isn't cracked...

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300CD



On 8/17/06, Desert Rat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Yeah, you're right. 92 500SL but all I need is the stainless steel
coolant exchanger  which is found on a number of MB's with a coolant
coil in the reservoir and then, all I need is about a 5 inch piece.


On 8/17/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:28:44 -0700 "Desert Rat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> > Anyone have an old reservoir laying around, preferably leaking or
> > cracked? All I need is the coolant tubing which sits inside.
>
> Might help if you told us which are it's for.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500SEL 143K "Stardust"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"
1992 500SL 109K "The Flying Plum"

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Re: [MBZ] Faulty glowplugs in Oz Mercs

[Jim Cathey]

The series glow plug system is actually very simple to work on,
and very reliable.  (Though it doesn't work as well as the later
parallel plug systems.)  The main feature to recognize is that
each glow plug has two non-ground terminals and is a 1-volt plug.
String N of them in series, and then use rather hefty dropping
resistors to consume the remainder of the voltage (at 60A or so).
The oldest systems don't have a controller, just a pull knob, and
use an additional glow-plug-like element in the dash that glows
red hot when ready.  (This can be considered the N+1 glow plug.)

Each plug, when working, should have approximately 1V measured
across its two leads.  If not, something somewhere is wrong.
That's where it can get tricky if you're not very savvy
electrically.  The usual diagnosis technique seems to have a
very involved table of electrical voltages (measured to ground)
at each point, every one different.  I find that using the
differential plug voltage is much simpler and more consistent.
A higher voltage across a plug points directly to that plug being
a problem.  12V is an open plug, less than this indicates a
poor connection.  A lower voltage _usually_ indicates that there
is insufficient current flow due to a poor connection elsewhere.
Keep looking for a too-high voltage, and correct that first.

Burned-out series plugs are relatively rare (when compared to
the parallel plugs), what plagues them is bad connections, it's
a hostile environment what with all the heat and the many connections
for the 'toaster rack' series dropping resistors.  Heavy soot buildup
can also short the element to ground inside the head, though if
you have this problem something else is wrong (perhaps just your
driving style/regimen).

I remain convinced, in the absence of evidence, that if the
toaster rack heat could have been captured in the intake manifold
the series system would be just as effective at cold-starting the
cars as the later parallel system, though not as quick.  (Parallel
systems work to lower temperatures, and more quickly.)

-- Jim

[MBZ] OT: Volvo issues

[Dave Wakin]

My brother-in-law has a 1991 740 Volvo sedan that is starting hard, then 
dieing once warmed up. Will not re-start until it cools down. He is thinking 
the coil may be going bad, or one of the many sensors - does anyone have any 
thoughts as to what the problem may be?


Thanks

Dave Wakin 

[MBZ] Faulty glowplugs in Oz Mercs

[Hendrik Riessen]

Having never worked on the glowplug system of a Merc diesel I can't fully 
answer this question without guessing too much, so I thought you lot 
might be able to shed some more light on this phenonamon.

http://forum.mbspares.com.au/viewtopic.php?p=7307#7307
You don't have to sign up or anything, I'll pass along any grains of 
information you may choose to throw off for us mob over here.


My semi educated guess is controller or temp sender but I could well be 
wrong.


Thanks a million in advance as usuall, sorry for the crappy spellien but it 
is late and I have a new (to me) car to worry about.


Good night and God bless us all,

Hendrik
85 190E 5 speed with a lot of issues
84 230E with less issues but a healthy appetite for fuel
82 U1300L hardly any issues but a vacarious appetite for Diesel
87 Nissan Patrol 3.3 turbo diesel has some issues but still going strong and 
usally only drinks in moderation 

Re: [MBZ] Looking for Biocide - *was* Throttle Linkage

[LarryT]

Craig,
   Along with the usual places to look for Biocide - like truck stops & 
FLAPS - try boat/marine supply stores - WestMarine is the biggest and you 
can easily order stuff on the internet.


Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Throttle Linkage



On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 19:30:19 -0500 "Royce Engler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:


... that may be the result of the biocide I ran through it a few months
ago. I was worried about bugs growing in the fuel tank.


I've looked for biocide here in New Mexico and can't find it.


Craig

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[MBZ] Possible damage caused by heated WVO

[Peter Merle]

I seem to recall that using  heated WVO in an old Merc eg W123 300D will
cause premature engine failure/damage - does anyon e know what that
failure is likely to be. There is a local guy who is doing that and
claims that his car has been going fine for x km 's.
Peter 
Capetown

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Jim Cathey]

Where can one source reed valves and rings for old compressors?  
Should I take it to my local machine shop?


First figure out which it is.  Does it hold pressure?  If so the
exhaust valve is OK.  If the intake valve leaks you might be able
to hear it suck and blow both.  It's a two-stage, so there's a
pair of valves on the inside that'll be hard to diagnose.  I wonder
if a pressure gauge in the middle could tell you anything, one
that read quickly enough to see what a leaking/bad valve was
doing.

Or maybe a good visual examination is called for, that often yields
good results.  You could be lucky and there's just crap caught in
them.  Sometimes repair parts are not available, then the fun starts.
Time to take it apart and have a look I'd say.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Luther Gulseth]

Where can one source reed valves and rings for old compressors?  Should I take 
it to my local machine shop?


On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 23:30:12 -0500, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


hrmso the 2 hours to build up 105 psi is just a tad long?


Seriously not right.  A gallon is not even a cubic foot, so just
doing the simple math of 60gal/7cfm ought to give you 8.5 minutes
as an outside number.

-- Jim





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Jim Cathey]

hrmso the 2 hours to build up 105 psi is just a tad long?


Seriously not right.  A gallon is not even a cubic foot, so just
doing the simple math of 60gal/7cfm ought to give you 8.5 minutes
as an outside number.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] www.buymbparts.com

[Gary Hurst]

it has sold $2500 this weekend, so i don't think there is any great issue

On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


seems fine to me.

Tom Hargrave wrote:

> Don,
>
> I just hit the site & noticed the same. I wonder if Rusty's hosting
locally
> and what his uplink bandwidth is?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of OK Don
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 3:51 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] www.buymbparts.com
>
> Is REALLY SLOW now - all other sites are fast. Is everyone hitting it
> looking for parts to order tomorrow morning, or is there a DoS attack
going
> on? Just my bad luck?
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted
all
> the alternatives."
> Sir Winston Churchill
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
>
> ___
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> parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
>

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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[MBZ] '82 SD trip report

[Dan Weeks]

Just drove my 82 300SD 2,500 miles on a trip with a very tight 
schedule. Never went slower than 75 mph, averaged 85 mph much of the 
time, with sustained runs I estimate approached top speed.  Best mpg 
was 28, worst was 23.5, trip average was bang on 25--with the air on. 
Oil consumption was a bit high--used exactly 2 quarts, noticably more 
than when cruising at 75.


By the way, the shifting problem reported earlier (reluctance to go 
into 4th, often downshifting into 3rd at high-speed cruise) has 
completely disappeared since the fluid was changed (NOT FLUSHED) and 
the filter was changed.


Delightful long trip car.

Dan
--
Dan Weeks
82 300SD 284k
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No, the fans hit on the Shat.

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Tonight at 9 is the roast of william shatner, the shat is going to hit 
the fan.


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Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Luther Gulseth]

hrmso the 2 hours to build up 105 psi is just a tad long?  Ugh Where 
would one source the reed valves from?  How about rings and the like?


On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 21:37:56 -0500, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Luther Gulseth wrote:


Ok, here's the question.  How quickly should a 7CFM dual stage air compressor 
fill a 60gal tank to 120 psi?  I think this compressor is in need of a 
rebuild.


Roughly speaking, if you're trying to shove 7 atmospheres into 60 gallons at 50 
gpm, it's
going
to take 8-9 minutes. Over 12 minutes and I'd wonder about the state of the reed 
valves or
piston rings.




--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

[MBZ] Baby it's hot out!

[redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/196661729.html

must be chinese

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] jabba looks on with approval is victory is ours!

[Gary Hurst]

my newest hobby -- US soccer.

here i savor the moment of our victory!

http://www.digital-diva.smugmug.com/gallery/1252047/7/89485301/Large

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Mitch Haley]

Luther Gulseth wrote:
> 
> Ok, here's the question.  How quickly should a 7CFM dual stage air compressor 
> fill a 60gal tank to 120 psi?  I think this compressor is in need of a 
> rebuild.

Roughly speaking, if you're trying to shove 7 atmospheres into 60 gallons at 50 
gpm, it's
going
to take 8-9 minutes. Over 12 minutes and I'd wonder about the state of the reed 
valves or
piston rings.

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Yes I noticed that disconnect in the reply-when my 300D 2.5t  was doing
this-John Peterson diagnosed one of the vacuum transducers. Had Indy
replace  it and boost and power then were fine.
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-

We have a problem here.  See the subject line for the car, a 1992 300D
2.5 turbo.

O
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

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Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Luther Gulseth]

We have a problem here.  See the subject line for the car, a 1992 300D 2.5 
turbo.

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 21:13:29 -0500, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower
power/boost.


Not on a '87 190D 2.5 turbo or an 86-'87 300D/TD/SDL!! Might cause a
problem with all the '90-95 diesels that go into "limp home" when the
EGR isn't working!

Marshall




--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] air compressor leaks

[Luther Gulseth]

Ok, here's the question.  How quickly should a 7CFM dual stage air compressor 
fill a 60gal tank to 120 psi?  I think this compressor is in need of a 
rebuild.

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 15:09:47 -0500, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Attempting to read the 40-50 year old name plates leaves for some doubt.  The 
compressor is a 2 stage 7 CFM/175psi and I believe the motor is 5hp dual 
voltage.  220v @ 9 amps and 110v @ 18amps.

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 12:52:33 -0500, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I've got a good 60 gallon air compressor for less than $200.


CFM and pressure ratings (and maybe motor HP) are also of interest
to our kind of people.  Wasn't this a decent-sized one?

-- Jim










--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower 
power/boost.


Not on a '87 190D 2.5 turbo or an 86-'87 300D/TD/SDL!! Might cause a 
problem with all the '90-95 diesels that go into "limp home" when the 
EGR isn't working!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Bob Rentfro]

We used to have an annual Relleno fest...spend all day roasting bags and 
bags of chiles then take some of the best ones and make bunches and bunches 
of rellenos. Miss those times...too many divorces and junk like that to make 
a nice guest list.


Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico



On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 20:22:17 -0500 "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Sounds yummy - what will you do with them after roasting them?


I'm putting them in freezer bags so we can freeze them and have them over
the next few months.

Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 20:22:17 -0500 "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Sounds yummy - what will you do with them after roasting them?

I'm putting them in freezer bags so we can freeze them and have them over
the next few months.

Craig

Re: [MBZ] must see TV

[Hendrik Riessen]

What's Cpt Kirk done now? He's not blaming the Jews for starting all the 
wars is he?
Funnily enough we don't get US TV live over here and when we do it is all 
the quality stuff..cough cough...not that I watch any of it


- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" ; "Banned List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: [MBZ] must see TV



Tonight at 9 is the roast of william shatner, the shat is going to hit
the fan.

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Re: [MBZ] Buehler, Buehler.... Anybody?

[Jim Cathey]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/196623590.html


Just the thing to weld to that pacer/gremlin/matador
carcass you have that got punched in the rear.  Extra
points if you can salvage the Porsche drivetrain in
the result.

Presenting: The Porschador!

-- Jim

[MBZ] Buehler, Buehler.... Anybody?

[redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/196623590.html

Free 911

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Bob Rentfro]

Nothing in the world smells better and is more relaxing than roasting chiles
I ususlly get a bag, raost in while pounding down Negro Modelo, and then 
freeze most of the finished product for use throughout the year.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 157K
'87 Acura Legend  177K
Still waiting on '72 350SL  78K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "mercedes" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico



Bought a 30# bag of mild chile peppers (my wife can't handle anything
hotter) which turned out to weigh 40#. Because of rain and lightning, the
store's roaster out front was shut down, so I've been roasting them under
our oven's broiler this afternoon. It takes a while.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[OK Don]

Good idea - I'll try that!


 The easiest way is to switch to EC and
see if it starts heating.  (The heater _will_ win if it's fighting
the AC.)

-- Jim



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Throttle Linkage

[Royce Engler]

Craig said...

  I've looked for biocide here in New Mexico and can't find it.


I can't remember where I got it...but I **THINK** it was a truck stop...

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 285K 

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[Jim Cathey]

checked the pressures. At  95F outside air, the high was 240ish at
idle, going to 280 at 2k rpm or so, and the low was around 50 at idle
and 30ish at 2k rpm. Does any of this give any clues to way it isn't
cooling?


For R134a the high pressure sounds a tad low.  But you need to check
the monovalve for leaking.  The easiest way is to switch to EC and
see if it starts heating.  (The heater _will_ win if it's fighting
the AC.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Subject: Re: Door locking system

[Jim Cathey]

I have found splits in the rubber boot. I think I have found the 
answer to
why the actuator works in the lock position.  If my theory is correct, 
the
diaphragm will pull down the actuator arm thus locking the door.  This 
chamber
doesn't leak because the diaphragm, prevents leakage of air in the 
sealed chamber.


The usual double diaphragm vacuum system has two diaphragms, and usually
only one splits.  Certain of these diaphragms _are_ separately 
available,

but I've never done this.  I have some, somewhere, that I'd bought only
to find out they wouldn't work in my application.  We do have some cars
they'd fit in, so I kept them.  Couldn't find them if I wanted to, 
though.


-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[OK Don]

Sounds yummy - what will you do with them after roasting them?

On 8/20/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Bought a 30# bag of mild chile peppers (my wife can't handle anything
hotter) which turned out to weigh 40#. Because of rain and lightning, the
store's roaster out front was shut down, so I've been roasting them under
our oven's broiler this afternoon. It takes a while.



Craig



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

[Jim Cathey]

I filled the 240D a few hours ago at $2.75/g cash price - a Pilot truck
stop/convienence store off I95 S of Richmond, Va,


That's criminal, the highest prices around here are $3.69/gal.  Sheesh.
Right now I'm driving the gasser 450 SL.

-- Jim

[MBZ] OT: It's green chile time here in New Mexico

[Craig McCluskey]

Bought a 30# bag of mild chile peppers (my wife can't handle anything
hotter) which turned out to weigh 40#. Because of rain and lightning, the
store's roaster out front was shut down, so I've been roasting them under
our oven's broiler this afternoon. It takes a while.



Craig

Re: [MBZ] Throttle Linkage

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 19:30:19 -0500 "Royce Engler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> ... that may be the result of the biocide I ran through it a few months
> ago. I was worried about bugs growing in the fuel tank.

I've looked for biocide here in New Mexico and can't find it.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold

[OK Don]

It shouldn't be - it's almost new.

On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

pressures seem OK to me.  You need to pull the monovalve and check to
see if the diaphram is torn.




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300d feeling slower

[Mitch Haley]

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> In a 2.5 turbo, any vacuum leak, especially under the hood, will lower
> power/boost.

I forget, what was wrong with Toad's 2.5?

Re: [MBZ] Throttle Linkage

[Royce Engler]

Joe said...

> But then the past couple of months it had no acceleration at  all. Would
> barely crawl along @ 40mph.  At 1st I suspected a vacuum leak,  but took
it to a
> trained MB mech, and he diagnosed it correctly as clogged fuel  filters.

That's the first thing I checked.  Filters seemed to be ok, but I figured it
was time for a flush anyway.  When I picked up the part from my indy I
bought his last can of Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge. Even though it was running
much better on the way home, I went ahead and replaced the fuel filters and
ran a can of diesel purge through it.  There was some gunk in the prefilter,
but that may be the result of the biocide I ran through it a few months ago.
I was worried about bugs growing in the fuel tank.

Also added a half quart of Mobil1 ATF to the tranny.  When I changed the
tranny fluid and filters earlier this year, I switched to Mobil1 ATF.  It's
been a few months, and I think all the seals have reseated.  Besides, I was
paranoid about overfilling it, so now it's up to the low mark.  Didn't have
time to do much of a road test, so the commute in tomorrow morning will be
the test.  I'll combine it with an Italian tuneup...looking forward to the
results.

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 285K

Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 20:32:36 -0400 "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I filled the 240D a few hours ago at $2.75/g cash price - a Pilot truck 
> stop/convienence store off I95 S of Richmond, Va,

I guess I ought to chime in here ...

Our diesel has been 325.9/gal for a couple of months now.


Craig

[MBZ] must see TV

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Tonight at 9 is the roast of william shatner, the shat is going to hit 
the fan.

Re: [MBZ] Subject: Re: Door locking system

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 19:13:59 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> When the door is unlocked and the rubber boot is cracked/split, then the
> vacuum can't hold when the air is drawn out of the upper chamber.  I'm
> assuming that the rubber boots can't be purchased separately or if they
> were, not readily installable?

Some have patched the rubber boots with sandwich bag plastic and RTV.
Someone listed a part number for another automobile's rubber boot that
will work.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

[LarryT]

I filled the 240D a few hours ago at $2.75/g cash price - a Pilot truck 
stop/convienence store off I95 S of Richmond, Va,


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices




Not bragging but, the truckstop on my commute is back down to $2.99.
Paid $2.87 this morning at the cheapie place near where we eat breakfast.

Had a guy try to buy my 190D this morning. I quoted the rube $8k, figured 
if he'd
pay that he deserved what he got. I really like only filling up once a 
month though...


-Curt

Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 12:44:55 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Got fuel yesterday.  Had to swallow when I saw the BioD price was up to
$3.11.  Big grin that I was not putting any #2 in.  The price there has
gone to $3.57.  Guess I need to snag a large tank and stock up while it
is cheap for winter driving.  Then again, I could just use old oil and
some gasoline to thin it for Gump.


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