Re: [MBZ] Fun in the cold this morning
I was looking at the batteries at Walmart this evening, and didn't see anything in group 49. Autozone has their Duralast brand, made by Johnson, in group 49 for a reasonable price. I paid $60 for mine, they were $70 the last time I looked at the price. Warranty is something like 7-8 years, so if it fails at five you get a nice discount on the next one.
[MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Thanks to all for your input. I just checked a few more things. Battery takes a charge with charger. Car starts with good battery. Light goes off when car starts. Light comes on when car is shut off. Voltage at battery cables with car running and unhooked from battery is 11.1 at idle to 12.2 when revved up with no lights or fans on. Other facts: Light goes out when I disconnect the alternator. I put a new Regulator in about a month ago. Thanks again for any other thoughts. Mike in Michigan - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Red dash light for Battery is staying on i suspect the electrical part in your ignition switch. There may be some ice inside so the swith doesn't work. The charging light gets fed 12V from the switch to one side and ground (I wire) through the field windings on the other. Key on - the lamp lights. When the Alternator is producing output, the windings become forward 12V and the light goes ot since the lamp now has 12V at both sides. On a swith that doesn't work, with the key on or off the light stays where the switch failed. With the car running and the alternator 'alternatering', the light will go off, irregardless of the swith. On 12/5/06, MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on position. In addition the glow light did not come on when I tried starting it. It is about 20 digress F out there tonight. I did not start. I am going out to try it again.Any ideas? Thanks, Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Bad diode in alternator. At 06:10 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Thanks to all for your input. I just checked a few more things. Battery takes a charge with charger. Car starts with good battery. Light goes off when car starts. Light comes on when car is shut off. Voltage at battery cables with car running and unhooked from battery is 11.1 at idle to 12.2 when revved up with no lights or fans on. Other facts: Light goes out when I disconnect the alternator. I put a new Regulator in about a month ago. Thanks again for any other thoughts. Mike in Michigan - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Red dash light for Battery is staying on i suspect the electrical part in your ignition switch. There may be some ice inside so the swith doesn't work. The charging light gets fed 12V from the switch to one side and ground (I wire) through the field windings on the other. Key on - the lamp lights. When the Alternator is producing output, the windings become forward 12V and the light goes ot since the lamp now has 12V at both sides. On a swith that doesn't work, with the key on or off the light stays where the switch failed. With the car running and the alternator 'alternatering', the light will go off, irregardless of the swith. On 12/5/06, MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on position. In addition the glow light did not come on when I tried starting it. It is about 20 digress F out there tonight. I did not start. I am going out to try it again.Any ideas? Thanks, Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Nope, def'n a loose belt. Go ahead and replace all the belts on the car, and while you're at it, any rubber hoses or other components. Then and only then will the light go out. Except you may also need new injectors, and a headlight switch. But first change the belts. Or - just change the alternator, including voltage regulator. Mike On 12/6/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bad diode in alternator. At 06:10 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Thanks to all for your input. I just checked a few more things. Battery takes a charge with charger. Car starts with good battery. Light goes off when car starts. Light comes on when car is shut off. Voltage at battery cables with car running and unhooked from battery is 11.1 at idle to 12.2 when revved up with no lights or fans on. Other facts: Light goes out when I disconnect the alternator. I put a new Regulator in about a month ago. Thanks again for any other thoughts. Mike in Michigan - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Red dash light for Battery is staying on i suspect the electrical part in your ignition switch. There may be some ice inside so the swith doesn't work. The charging light gets fed 12V from the switch to one side and ground (I wire) through the field windings on the other. Key on - the lamp lights. When the Alternator is producing output, the windings become forward 12V and the light goes ot since the lamp now has 12V at both sides. On a swith that doesn't work, with the key on or off the light stays where the switch failed. With the car running and the alternator 'alternatering', the light will go off, irregardless of the swith. On 12/5/06, MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on position. In addition the glow light did not come on when I tried starting it. It is about 20 digress F out there tonight. I did not start. I am going out to try it again.Any ideas? Thanks, Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Over heating question please, 79 240D
Water pump can go, the belt can be bad and not turning the fan, and that new thermostat may have bitten the dust, they do. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Mike: Your diodes are fried. Please do not run the alternator without the battery in the circuit, it will, if working (and your isn't) go way overvoltage and fry things. Not good. This usually finishes off weak diodes, by the way. 12.1V will not charge the battery, you must get at least 12.5, preferably 13 at idle, and should get 14-14.5 at 1500 rpm. anything less, the alternator isn't putting out enough voltage (let alone amperage!). Peter
Re: [MBZ] How good is an OM603 in the cold?
I was totally shocked! On 12/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ohhh, no kidding, I cant believe that. OK Don wrote: Wife vetoed that idea --- On 12/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I thought you were selling that car? OK Don wrote: -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Batteries (was Fun in the cold this morning)
I just had to replace the Interstate in the 240D. It was over 7 years old. The earliest one has died on me was 4 years. Most go 5. Some interstate special 1000 amph battery we got when we bought the 83, only lasted 3 years before failure. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
My first Benz, a 220D, came from Minnesota with a heater just like yours. I used to set the heater on high, open both the floor vents and the defroster vents, plug the engine heater in at night, and would find the windshield partially clear of frost/ice in the morning from the air convection in the heater box. I've since switched to Mobil 1 and don't use a block heater any more --- On 12/6/06, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Several years ago, we used circulating engine heaters that were used when it got cold in Alaska (also common in Northern states and Canada). These typically were T ed into a heater return line to the engine block.and had an input connected to an engine block drain. They came in 500, 750, 1000, and 1500 Watt sizes, and were very effective in keeping the engine toasty even in -40F weather. I used a 1000 W unit on my 390 c.i. V-8, and a 750 W unit on my 289 c.i. V-8. Actually, about 30 minutes of operation were enough to let the engine start easily, but mostly they stayed plugged in all night, so that the driver had instant heat when the car started. Fairly inexpensive and very effective, they looked like a soup can with an AC cord coming out the side, and 2 - 5/8 hose connections. Usually mounted low alongside the engine, to make best use of the convection heating currents. Werner -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 124 suspension, something marshall would know
yep, thats what I have going on. Marshall Booth wrote: Jim Cathey wrote: Cant really tell. Feels like the front, but it could be the back making it feel like the front though. My 190D squirrels felt front-loaded, and they were. I did have one bad back link, but didn't notice much difference after I replaced it. When rear links are bad, driving slowly over an irregular or wavy surface will cause the care to move first one way then the other. At higher speed the effects make the car feel nervous and can be very disconcerting. Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] Anyone in Memphis?
Is anyone in Memphis who could check out an MB for me? John Peterson Kingston RI 1991 300D Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: yep, thats what I have going on. Marshall Booth wrote: Jim Cathey wrote: Cant really tell. Feels like the front, but it could be the back making it feel like the front though. My 190D squirrels felt front-loaded, and they were. I did have one bad back link, but didn't notice much difference after I replaced it. When rear links are bad, driving slowly over an irregular or wavy surface will cause the care to move first one way then the other. At higher speed the effects make the car feel nervous and can be very disconcerting. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Michael Hall wrote: Nope, def'n a loose belt. Go ahead and replace all the belts on the car, and while you're at it, any rubber hoses or other components. Then and only then will the light go out. Except you may also need new injectors, and a headlight switch. But first change the belts. You left out changing the fuses. ;) I agree with the other posters who have suggested he's probably got a shorted alternator diode.
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
Tyler Backman wrote: ABS certainly saves a lot of lives, and prevents a lot of accidents between normal drivers that don't take the time to study and practice emergency maneuvers. Research that supports that assertion is surprisingly hard to come by. Every study I'm aware of seems to indicate that ABS-equipped cars are involved in MORE accidents. The assumption is that drivers who know they have ABS take more risks. ABS combined with stability control, on the other hand, *has* been shown to reduce accidents.
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
John M McIntosh wrote: Standing on the brake is easy but what most people don't realize is our benzs (even my w140) is quite capable of doing a sudden lane change in a *very* short distance. On the other hand, cars in the next lane over will not thank you for involving them in your accident. Unless you live where there's very little traffic, it's hard to be sure in a sudden situation like that that no one is in your blind spot. You don't exactly have time to look over your shoulder. :)
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
Werner Fehlauer wrote: Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies only to living things (animate) that have a circulating system (blood). Ah, but we're talking about an engine being actively heated by a block heater. Kinda like how your body is actively heated. So wind chill *will* have some effect -- the wind will carry more of the block heater's heat away, and the engine will be colder than it would have been in a sheltered area.
[MBZ] Group IV Synthetic (Was: Re: Block Heater)
Marshall Booth wrote: Group IV or IV/V synthetic oil (all the Mobil 1 oils are IV or IV/V mixes) will increase cold cranking speed by 30-50% and low minimum start temp by about 10 degrees (or a bit more) other things equal. Marshall, I'm curious if you've heard any of the rumors that Mobil 1 has quietly switched to a group III synthetic. It's been making the rounds on another message board I'm on.
[MBZ] burning fader switch
Recently my CD's fader switch has started getting VERY hot to the touch, even to the point that I can smell it. Anyone else ever experienced this before? Guess I'm gonna have to pull the console up and check wiring for shorts. I already swapped the fader switch with a spare. Grrr. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
David - Bzzzt! An engine block, whether standing in the wind or in an unheated shelter, will never get below ambient temperature, no matter how hard the wind blows. Now it will cool down to ambient faster with air circulation, but no way will it get colder than that - unlike humans, who would feel like it is a lot colder than ambient when in the wind. I was referring to the term Wind Chill, as in Wind Chill factor, which only affects animate objects as has been correctly pointed out by several listers. Werner - Original Message - From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:42 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater) Werner Fehlauer wrote: Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies only to living things (animate) that have a circulating system (blood). Ah, but we're talking about an engine being actively heated by a block heater. Kinda like how your body is actively heated. So wind chill *will* have some effect -- the wind will carry more of the block heater's heat away, and the engine will be colder than it would have been in a sheltered area. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. It is bad and improper advice for the following reason: Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to over 12 atmospheres *when cold*. Basic laws of chemistry (PV=nRT) tell us that with no escape, the gas pressure inside the bulb will skyrocket with increasing temperature. These bulbs are not designed to handle the heat, or the current load on the common filament support lead, of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying the lens and reflector with hot, sharp shrapnel. Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the Brite Box people have made a business out of this clever (not) modification. Running the lows with the highs can only be done safely if the two functions are produced by separate single-filament bulbs. Very occasionally, even a reputable maker will produce a bulb with a defect in its glass or quartz envelope, and such bulbs can explode at random while in service. Or, if significant liquid water enters the headlamp (as for example via a faulty seal or cracked lens), and splashes on the hot bulb, the bulb glass can and often will shatter. But, wiring up the low + high filament to run at the same time in a 2-filament bulb of any wattage rating is begging for bulb explosions. This has been explained to Stu often; each time he has dismissed the explanation, insisted there's no problem, and carried on refusing to make the connection between his improper wiring and his bulb-explosion problem. There is another very good reason not to run the lows and/or fogs together with the highs in an H4 system: It doesn't help you see better. The low beam and fog beam direct their light primarily downward (fog lamps) or downward/rightward (low beams in right-traffic countries). High beams direct their light primarily straight ahead. The brighter the foreground light, the more the driver's pupils constrict, with a resultant significant decrease in distance vision. There are headlamp systems (w/multiple single-function beams, not 2-filament) that *rely* on the low beam being lit when the high beam is on; in these systems the low beam provides the width and fill, while the high beam produces the distance reach. But, there are also headlamp systems in which the high beams are designed to produce the width, fill, and reach all by themselves, and increasing foreground illumination by means of the low and/or fog beams just spoils distance vision as described above and at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html . Indiscriminately adding more and more and more light by miswiring the various forward illumination functions usually does not genuinely improve the safety performance of the lights or the driver's real ability to see what he needs to see. The same goes for just picking the highest-wattage bulbs available. It's not necessarily the way to optimize lighting performance. As wattage increases, the size of the filament necessarily increases, both in length and in diameter. This has a strongly negative effect on beam focus -- the more closely the filament approximates a point source of light, the better the beam focus, and the greater the size of the filament the poorer the beam focus. Effective seeing distance plummets. At the same time, foreground light goes to nuclear levels, which does two things at the same time: 1) It fools you into thinking you've got excellent lighting. We humans are very poor subjective judges of our visual performance; it's very easy to create situations in which we think/feel we can see much better (or much worse) than we actually can. And the number-one way to cause a subjective impression of good lighting is to increase the foreground light. Of course, some foreground light is necessary so you can keep the car in-lane, avoid potholes, and see road contours. But,
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
Someone is definitely going to Hell for posting something like that. On 12/6/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? -- Most men want to spend time in the garage. As for me, I'd much rather be in the kitchen -- cooking, not eating.
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 It's just semantics; you're both right. There are many different ways to define and calculate wind chill. On Dec 6, 2006, at 6:42 PM, David Brodbeck wrote: Ah, but we're talking about an engine being actively heated by a block heater. Kinda like how your body is actively heated. So wind chill *will* have some effect -- the wind will carry more of the block heater's heat away, and the engine will be colder than it would have been in a sheltered area. -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFd5e7t178NxI/higRAnyHAJoDr5ItSEk7UOGFT53z+Y2viFmPygCfVaHd HN9luAd5OpslxY7M4gs49Ms= =NcGu -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 I constantly try to make sure there is nobody beside me when driving on the freeway... But that's not possible if you live in a big city. On Dec 6, 2006, at 6:39 PM, David Brodbeck wrote: On the other hand, cars in the next lane over will not thank you for involving them in your accident. Unless you live where there's very little traffic, it's hard to be sure in a sudden situation like that that no one is in your blind spot. You don't exactly have time to look over your shoulder. :) -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFd5hGt178NxI/higRAr42AJwNPvWLXZ3x7kvSbjehhfDw0VQe2ACfQwIJ wRAA+VcaeVy+vKFRE4I5wgM= =WHbt -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] Totally OT Ford Explorer
Donald Snook wrote: Has anyone replaced the dash lights on a 1997 Explorer. The lights in the cluster (behind the speedo and other gauges) are out on my Wife's car. Just wondering if anyone has any idea how to change them? I believe the cluster has to come out. It's a real pain, especially since the cable for the PRNDL has to be disconnected. I'm facing the same job on my '95 Police Interceptor. When I finally get annoyed enough to do it, I'm going to replace *all* the bulbs so I don't have to do it again soon.
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
Werner Fehlauer wrote: David - Bzzzt! An engine block, whether standing in the wind or in an unheated shelter, will never get below ambient temperature, no matter how hard the wind blows. I realize that, but the original question was what temperature the engine will reach WITH THE BLOCK HEATER ON. That will *always* be above ambient, but in the case of windy conditions (which would have a low wind chill reading) it will be lower than it would be in calm conditions.
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
Okay, so we've covered the block heater well, so lets move to other wintertime heating equipment. Namely glowplugs. How do I check to see that all 5 of mine are working properly? I seem to recall there being a voltage test. Tim 1982 300TD 1991 300TE 4Matic
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
Okay, so we've covered the block heater well, so lets move to other wintertime heating equipment. Namely glowplugs. How do I check to see that all 5 of mine are working properly? I seem to recall there being a voltage test. How's it start in the cold? Good? Then so are the plugs! The best test is to measure the current through them (newer parallel plugs) or the voltage across them (old series plugs). -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
circulation, but no way will it get colder than that - unlike humans, who would feel like it is a lot colder than ambient when in the wind. We feel the extra cold because of the increased rate of heat loss. The largest component of this is due to the wind, the sweating component is much smaller. I was referring to the term Wind Chill, as in Wind Chill factor, which only affects animate objects as has been correctly pointed out by several listers. I'm not talking about Wind Chill Factor (TM, all rights reserved, etc.), I'm talking about being chilled faster via wind. Wind chill, for short. It's an operating mechanism, just not exactly the same as for fur-less mammals. Humans also rarely get below ambient temperature. Until they are long past caring. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] burning fader switch
Recently my CD's fader switch has started getting VERY hot to the touch, even to the point that I can smell it. Anyone else ever experienced this before? Usually the radio can't pump out that much juice. Other than the heat/smell, how's the radio acting, especially in back? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
Battery takes a charge with charger. Car starts with good battery. Light goes off when car starts. Light comes on when car is shut off. Voltage at battery cables with car running and unhooked from battery [charger] is 11.1 at idle to 12.2 when revved up with no lights or fans. Bad diode, not usually a replaceable component. If you kept the bad regulator you could put it back in your now-dead one for a core, and save your month-old regulator for a spare. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
Funnily enough in my experience Stu is actually not that worried about personal criticism, well that was years ago, he may well have become a little sensitive. - Original Message - From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:38 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern Someone is definitely going to Hell for posting something like that. On 12/6/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off?
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
It may not be relevant but I tell you it has an effect. I agree... If you park out in a windy spot as opposed to a shielded spot on a cold night, you will notice a difference not only in starting but in how stiff the whole car is. ...But not really about this. Wind or not, parked outside it all should have reached equilibrium before the night was over. Assuming temperatures cold enough to be worthy of the name. 45 degrees doesn't cut it. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] burning fader switch
back and front are ok, have no left channel though. On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 23:27:04 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Recently my CD's fader switch has started getting VERY hot to the touch, even to the point that I can smell it. Anyone else ever experienced this before? Usually the radio can't pump out that much juice. Other than the heat/smell, how's the radio acting, especially in back? -- Jim -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
What's the rule of thumb as to how long it has to be plugged in to get up to temp? 1hr? 5 hrs? Somewhere between 1-2 hours I no longer notice a difference with extra time. Depends on how cold it is. -- Jim
[MBZ] 1987 300D 115K miles $3500 in Portland
I spotted this one on craigslist. Can it be too good to be true? http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/car/245072178.html If not, someone will be getting a good deal on this one. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300sD 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D 115K miles $3500 in Portland
On 12/6/06, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I spotted this one on craigslist. Can it be too good to be true? http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/car/245072178.html If not, someone will be getting a good deal on this one. Somehow I doubt the miles---I might not even believe it if I see a Carfax. Even so, I am very tempted to pick it up if it has a non-#14 head. It'd go well with my white '87---ebony and ivory! Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] burning fader switch
On 12/6/06, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Recently my CD's fader switch has started getting VERY hot to the touch, even to the point that I can smell it. Anyone else ever experienced this before? Good chance to get rid of the blasted thing! You'll be amazed how much better your stereo sounds. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
As a rule of thumb (esp on 123s, where it's easy) when I buy a car I replace all the plugs. Easy solution instead of checking resistances. On 12/7/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What's the rule of thumb as to how long it has to be plugged in to get up to temp? 1hr? 5 hrs? Somewhere between 1-2 hours I no longer notice a difference with extra time. Depends on how cold it is. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Over heating question please, 79 240D
It was a bad all be it new thermostat. Moral o the story, when you replace em buy two just in case thanks for he help. Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 1:47 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Over heating question please, 79 240D In a message dated 12/6/2006 10:52:19 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Car is a 1979 240D, 106,000 miles. About 2,000 miles ago (of highway travel) I de oiled, decacified and used a preston flush on cooling system. Changed thermostat with new an some hoses. Car has run aroun 177 to 182 degrees F. Coolant is 50/50 mix of Zerex G-05 All air had been evacuated after flush. After being on the highway, today as I drove on secondary road noticed car temp peg out at 250 F. imediatelly pulled over and shut her down. Pulled over let it cool and chaecked. All levels appear fine, noticed some coolant boil over from overflow line into bottom of fan shroud. All hoses and water pump appear intact without leakage. No bubbleage in coolant to indicate worn or damaged head gasket? Question can a water pump fail that catisrophically? Head gasket?? Thoughts on the cause please/where to trouble shoot ? Tom, If you are sure all bubbles were out, I would look for a tiny leak somewhere. Did you change the radiator cap? A small vapor loss on the highway , through the cap, would be unnoticable unless you checked the reservoir level every morning when cold. Same with a freeze plug seeping, or maybe a loose clamp on the short hose behind the water pump. Look for a tiny leak somewhere. Good luck, and let the list know what you find! Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 264 K miles 98 ML 320, 146 K miles ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
It really depends on the car and how cold it is... On my 240D at temps down to about -15 30 minuts was plenty. At -20 it really needed an hour. I'm SO glad to have a house this winter where I can plug the car in. I'm buying a light timer to turn on the Christmas lights which will be immediately repurposed into a car timer to turn on the heater at about the same time my alarm goes off. -Curt Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 15:33:41 -0600 From: Fmiser Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block Heater To: Mercedes Discussion List Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII rumor has it that Levi wrote: I was wondering how much heating it could do if the coolant were circulating... Nope. For diesel-cycle starting, the block and head are what need to be not cold. The stock location does a fine job of that! Say with that nice heater coolant pump, or another one elsewhere in the coolant lines to help heat my veggie tank... Ahh, now _that's_ different! If it were me, I would look at a FLAP aftermarket heater. The usually have fitting for attaching to heater hoses. That could work well to heat your fuel tank - maybe even without a pump. Oh, and another more important question: What's the rule of thumb as to how long it has to be plugged in to get up to temp? 1hr? 5 hrs? I believe Curt is the one who had to run his off an inverter and a marine battery. I recall he said 30 minutes made a _big_ difference. I have mine on a timer and generally set it to turn on 3 hr before I expect to start the car. At that point, the temp/time slope is getting rather flat. --Philip - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 07 13:54:52 2006 Received: from web32810.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.40]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GsJi8-0005Aq-M0 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 13:54:52 + Received: (qmail 68095 invoked by uid 60001); 7 Dec 2006 13:50:32 - Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-YMail-OSG: fMREFU4VM1nQ_tjxa_nuwwRQbSwfbqJXZ79NWKdmSAQ06hE_RUbAsPGCU5EwcyMiz8L5JYGBiSccIPlsyphyHdSrYTYbB95a9fgaiCn_wiZg.hEnE2WxO4Ur6AZcNFKXcQr5N0XW4qyWonN7OobFowgBkWUq0a0hyy8KKvKL7r6K1Q7t99jIzHSQEwdM Received: from [198.51.119.130] by web32810.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 05:50:32 PST Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 05:50:32 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Group IV Synthetic X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 13:54:53 - Unless its been a very recent change my latest oil analysis wouldn't bear that out. At 10,000 miles the Mobil 1 15w50 was just worn out, iron and a couple other wear metals had gotten on the high side. IIRC group III oils would suffer viscosity breakdown at that mileage. -Curt Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 18:44:32 -0800 From: David Brodbeck Subject: [MBZ] Group IV Synthetic (Was: Re: Block Heater) To: Mercedes Discussion List Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Marshall Booth wrote: Group IV or IV/V synthetic oil (all the Mobil 1 oils are IV or IV/V mixes) will increase cold cranking speed by 30-50% and low minimum start temp by about 10 degrees (or a bit more) other things equal. Marshall, I'm curious if you've heard any of the rumors that Mobil 1 has quietly switched to a group III synthetic. It's been making the rounds on another message board I'm on. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 07 14:03:52 2006 Received: from web32803.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.33]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GsJqn-0005YR-TA for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 14:03:52 + Received: (qmail 31369 invoked by uid 60001); 7 Dec 2006 13:59:35 - X-YMail-OSG: etHtiYMVM1kb8gXiubG9Ef1_P2Crn5EPIxcfxAAjpUEWPbOfrDyQ7JoXRyZYhSt6gL2aelqSYp1XwuesSqwqrmGLpWtiiWsP6_ekPQRcNfBs35WAJqC0dLd8bEt77Wtfw9HMgZzIfOso8TfVx2oVXC5ltv7_VKenci27hNak5FGk0OTarrcwGh.HdLC4 Received: from [198.51.119.130] by
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
hahaha, thats funny. Has stu responded yet? I have got behind reading that list, or skimming thru rather. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
It's posts like this that keeps me going back to Daniel Stern for my high-end automotive lighting needs. When it comes to automotive lighting, I'm not sure there are many with his depth of knowledge and willingness to share it. J.B. At 10:45 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. ... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.14/578 - Release Date: 12/7/2006 1:27 AM
Re: [MBZ] Posted my wagon to eBay
Nice presentation. You might want to add a photo of the center dash to show the radio cassette and wood in the middle. If these look good then that might be worth another couple hundred bucks. On 12/5/06, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Im not a real ebay guy, but I'm keeping my eye on it. Zeb On 05/12/06, TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rght! Tim 1982 300TD 1991 300TE 4Matic === Message: 9 Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 12:36:17 -0500 From: Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm gonna throw my hat into the ring. The reserve is $500, right ;-)? Mac (channelling Kaleb) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
Do the glow plugs play a role in keeping a 1983 300TD running after it starts? Mine starts but stalls until it has warmed up. On 12/7/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It really depends on the car and how cold it is... On my 240D at temps down to about -15 30 minuts was plenty. At -20 it really needed an hour. I'm SO glad to have a house this winter where I can plug the car in. I'm buying a light timer to turn on the Christmas lights which will be immediately repurposed into a car timer to turn on the heater at about the same time my alarm goes off. -Curt Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 15:33:41 -0600 From: Fmiser Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block Heater To: Mercedes Discussion List Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII rumor has it that Levi wrote: I was wondering how much heating it could do if the coolant were circulating...Nope. For diesel-cycle starting, the block and head are what need to be not cold. The stock location does a fine job of that! Say with that nice heater coolant pump, or another one elsewhere in the coolant lines to help heat my veggie tank... Ahh, now _that's_ different! If it were me, I would look at a FLAP aftermarket heater. The usually have fitting for attaching to heater hoses. That could work well to heat your fuel tank - maybe even without a pump. Oh, and another more important question: What's the rule of thumb as to how long it has to be plugged in to get up to temp? 1hr? 5 hrs? I believe Curt is the one who had to run his off an inverter and a marine battery. I recall he said 30 minutes made a _big_ difference. I have mine on a timer and generally set it to turn on 3 hr before I expect to start the car. At that point, the temp/time slope is getting rather flat. --Philip - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
on 12/7/06 10:53 AM, andrew strasfogel at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Do the glow plugs play a role in keeping a 1983 300TD running after it starts? Mine starts but stalls until it has warmed up. If the car has been retrofitted with the fast glow relay, yes they stay on for a some time after startup. Mac
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
no, not unless you have installed the upgraded afterglow setup. andrew strasfogel wrote: Do the glow plugs play a role in keeping a 1983 300TD running after it starts? Mine starts but stalls until it has warmed up. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
i look at from a slightly different perspective. how can a poof know so much about lightbulbs? On 12/6/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. It is bad and improper advice for the following reason: Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to over 12 atmospheres *when cold*. Basic laws of chemistry (PV=nRT) tell us that with no escape, the gas pressure inside the bulb will skyrocket with increasing temperature. These bulbs are not designed to handle the heat, or the current load on the common filament support lead, of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying the lens and reflector with hot, sharp shrapnel. Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the Brite Box people have made a business out of this clever (not) modification. Running the lows with the highs can only be done safely if the two functions are produced by separate single-filament bulbs. Very occasionally, even a reputable maker will produce a bulb with a defect in its glass or quartz envelope, and such bulbs can explode at random while in service. Or, if significant liquid water enters the headlamp (as for example via a faulty seal or cracked lens), and splashes on the hot bulb, the bulb glass can and often will shatter. But, wiring up the low + high filament to run at the same time in a 2-filament bulb of any wattage rating is begging for bulb explosions. This has been explained to Stu often; each time he has dismissed the explanation, insisted there's no problem, and carried on refusing to make the connection between his improper wiring and his bulb-explosion problem. There is another very good reason not to run the lows and/or fogs together with the highs in an H4 system: It doesn't help you see better. The low beam and fog beam direct their light primarily downward (fog lamps) or downward/rightward (low beams in right-traffic countries). High beams direct their light primarily straight ahead. The brighter the foreground light, the more the driver's pupils constrict, with a resultant significant decrease in distance vision. There are headlamp systems (w/multiple single-function beams, not 2-filament) that *rely* on the low beam being lit when the high beam is on; in these systems the low beam provides the width and fill, while the high beam produces the distance reach. But, there are also headlamp systems in which the high beams are designed to produce the width, fill, and reach all by themselves, and increasing foreground illumination by means of the low and/or fog beams just spoils distance vision as described above and at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html . Indiscriminately adding more and more and more light by miswiring the various forward illumination functions usually does not genuinely improve the safety performance of the lights or the driver's real ability to see what he needs to see. The same goes for just picking the highest-wattage bulbs available. It's not necessarily the way to optimize lighting performance. As wattage increases, the size of the filament necessarily increases, both in length and in diameter. This has a strongly negative effect on beam focus -- the more closely the filament approximates a point source of light, the better the beam focus, and the greater the size of the filament the poorer the beam focus. Effective seeing distance plummets. At the same time, foreground light goes to nuclear levels, which does two things at the same time: 1) It fools you into thinking you've got excellent lighting. We humans are very poor subjective judges of our visual performance; it's very easy to create situations in which we think/feel we can see much better (or much worse) than we actually can. And the number-one way to cause a subjective impression of good lighting is to
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
Jim Cathey wrote: It may not be relevant but I tell you it has an effect. I agree... If you park out in a windy spot as opposed to a shielded spot on a cold night, you will notice a difference not only in starting but in how stiff the whole car is. ...But not really about this. Wind or not, parked outside it all should have reached equilibrium before the night was over. Assuming temperatures cold enough to be worthy of the name. 45 degrees doesn't cut it. Mercedes has stated that it takes about 8 hours on average for the car to reach temperature equilibrium (and I agree that's about right) with the ambient temperature. On a windy night it takes less time and in a well sheltered area a bit longer. Once at equilibrium, wind makes no further contribution. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Group IV Synthetic (Was: Re: Block Heater)
David Brodbeck wrote: Marshall Booth wrote: Group IV or IV/V synthetic oil (all the Mobil 1 oils are IV or IV/V mixes) will increase cold cranking speed by 30-50% and low minimum start temp by about 10 degrees (or a bit more) other things equal. Marshall, I'm curious if you've heard any of the rumors that Mobil 1 has quietly switched to a group III synthetic. It's been making the rounds on another message board I'm on. There have been rumors that Mobil 1 has be switched to group III oils every year for almost 20 years. I expect that most of those rumors were started by people that made their living selling group III synthetics. It hasn't happened as of the last time I checked (about 4 months ago). All if the Mobil 1 Extended formulas are mixtures of group IV/V oils. As are the 5W-40 formulas. The formulas for the older Mobil 1 varieties are th3e same as they have been for years. Some of the lesser varieties of Mobil oils may contain group I, II or III oils - I have paid NO attention to them. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Block Heater
andrew strasfogel wrote: Do the glow plugs play a role in keeping a 1983 300TD running after it starts? Mine starts but stalls until it has warmed up. What you describe is common in many older 61x engines if everything isn't working exactly as it was designed to work, but finding what's wrong can be a chore! The easies solution is to allow the plugs to glow for 10-20 seconds after the dash light goes out - and if that doesn't help, try raising the idle to 800+ rpm. In older engines without afterstart glow function, the only effect that plugs have after the engine starts relates to the temperature within the prechamber. The temperature within the prechamber DOES influence how complete combustion will be. If it's cold enough, the engine will not start. The glow plugs raise the temperature enough to permit the fuel to be sufficiently atomized for compression to start the engine. If the spray pattern of the injectors is less than ideal, the minimum start temp will rise. If the valves are tight (so compression is low) minimum start temp will rise. If one glow plug is out (the dash light signal that preglow system is faulty may NOT be activated depending on which plug is out) or if the plugs are fatigued, minimum start temp will rise. If the glow plugs reach only 800-900 deg (that's about when the dash lamp is programed to go out) before the engine is started (rather than the maximum of 1180 that requires about 30 seconds of glow plug activation) then the engine may stall after it starts in very cold weather. It may also stall if the fuel isn't winterized and temps get below about 25-27 deg. C. If the rack damper screw is not properly adjusted, the engine may not start when cold or may stall after starting. For reliable cold weather starting, EVERYTHING must be working correctly. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] New Theory
Curt Raymond wrote: So on my way to work I was pondering the iron level in the oil of my '85 190D. I'd noticed after changing out the first run of Mobil 1 (after like 7,000 miles) that on the second run of oil consumption (or more likely leakage) had increased. In the first 7,000 miles the car never needed to be topped up. In the next 10,000 miles it needed 2 quarts. Now on the third run I'm being more careful about paying attention, so far after 3,000 miles it hasn't needed any. So heres my new theory, the iron I've been seeing in the oil analysis is from sludge buildup in the seals. The Mobil 1 and hard driving has been cleaning the seals out, both freeing up the sludge and allowing the leakage. Now I'm seeing both a reduction in leakage(probably slight, we'll know more in another 7,000 miles) and lowered iron levels in the oil. I don't plan to draw another sample for analysis until 7,000 miles, we'll see where the iron level is then. All of the 7 OM60x engines I personally owned and changed over to Mobil synthetics, stabilized with regard to oil consumption within 10-20kmi. All ended up using less oil after the switch. Most ended up using a qt between 4,000-10,000 miles, but the kind of driving did enter into the picture and oil pressure was 0.2-0.7 bar higher eventually. One of the cars (an '84 OM601.921) continued to slowly improve and lifter noise continued to diminish for more than 40,000 miles. I paid NO attention to any analysis levels except soot. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[MBZ] Blow up a W123
Oh, I see Unaccompanied minors starts today. I saw one trailer that showed them blowing up a w123. (or at least it sure looked like it to me...) Anyone gonna sign up to see that one? Levi (:
[MBZ] 1993 400SEL
Wondering what the pros and cons of one of these are? Any worries? Has anybody had one? Friend found one with 65K.. TIA. Dwight Dwight E. Giles, Jr. 1979 240D-250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles Wickford, RI
[MBZ] car for LT don
http://omaha.craigslist.org/car/243570652.html From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 07 20:04:14 2006 Received: from smtp-out1.atlngahp.sys.nuvox.net ([70.43.63.18] helo=smtp01.atlngahp.sys.nuvox.net) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtps (TLSv1:AES256-SHA:256) (Exim 4.52) id 1GsPTa-0001TT-AC for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 20:04:14 + Received: from TP730006 (209.248.238.162.nw.nuvox.net [209.248.238.162]) by smtp01.atlngahp.sys.nuvox.net (8.13.1/8.13.1) with SMTP id kB7K0H97030124 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 7 Dec 2006 15:00:17 -0500 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 13:59:52 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2869 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2962 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: [MBZ] another cheap 300D X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 20:04:14 - http://kansascity.craigslist.org/car/243678064.html From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 07 20:52:52 2006 Received: from nf-out-0910.google.com ([64.233.182.189]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GsQEd-0002vV-So for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 20:52:52 + Received: by nf-out-0910.google.com with SMTP id i2so952981nfe for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 12:48:57 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.48.162.12 with SMTP id k12mr4642356nfe.1165524537248; Thu, 07 Dec 2006 12:48:57 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.49.34.9 with HTTP; Thu, 7 Dec 2006 12:48:57 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 15:48:57 -0500 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1993 400SEL X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 20:52:52 - If that's the 140 chassis, same problem as the 350SDL (minus the rodbending issue) - expensive electrical fixes, evaporator issues, etc. On 12/7/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wondering what the pros and cons of one of these are? Any worries? Has anybody had one? Friend found one with 65K.. TIA. Dwight Dwight E. Giles, Jr. 1979 240D-250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles Wickford, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] burning fader switch
Good chance to get rid of the blasted thing! One of my 300D's had a stereo system with only front speakers, and the fader hole was filled in with a plastic piece that snapped right in. It felt just like the rest of the console. If you could find one of these, you'd be set! I suppose that you could do what many people do, leave it in there to keep it original, but wire around it. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Wind Chill (was Block Heater)
i've spent much of the best times of my life below ambient temperature; but then again, i *like* it in the Dez. ;-) cheers! e Jim Cathey wrote: I'm not talking about Wind Chill Factor (TM, all rights reserved, etc.), I'm talking about being chilled faster via wind. Wind chill, for short. It's an operating mechanism, just not exactly the same as for fur-less mammals. Humans also rarely get below ambient temperature. Until they are long past caring. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
you should already *know* whether or not there's someone in your blind spot; when it becomes time for an Emergency Avoidance maneuver, it's far too late to start figuring out what's going on around you. cheers! e David Brodbeck wrote: Unless you live where there's very little traffic, it's hard to be sure in a sudden situation like that that no one is in your blind spot. You don't exactly have time to look over your shoulder. :)
Re: [MBZ] Group IV Synthetic (Was: Re: Block Heater)
Marshall Booth wrote: There have been rumors that Mobil 1 has be switched to group III oils every year for almost 20 years. I expect that most of those rumors were started by people that made their living selling group III synthetics. It hasn't happened as of the last time I checked (about 4 months ago). All if the Mobil 1 Extended formulas are mixtures of group IV/V oils. After digging a bit and tracing links back through a couple of different forums, I found this, which seems to be the origin of the rumor: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0Number=749606page=2fpart=1vc=1 Just shot some M1 EP 15W-50 into the Gas Chromatograph and was surprised to find it based mostly on mineral oil (presumably Group III) plus a good slug of AN. It may also contain a small amount of PAO, but so small that I can't be certain.
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
ernest breakfield wrote: you should already *know* whether or not there's someone in your blind spot; when it becomes time for an Emergency Avoidance maneuver, it's far too late to start figuring out what's going on around you. Ideally, yes, but in heavy mixed freeway traffic it's not always possible. Every moment you spend checking over your shoulder is a moment when you're not paying attention to what's going on up ahead. And those motorcycles can be devilishly hard to see when they're cozied up next to your rear fenders.
Re: [MBZ] burning fader switch
On 12/7/06, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: One of my 300D's had a stereo system with only front speakers, and the fader hole was filled in with a plastic piece that snapped right in. It felt just like the rest of the console. If you could find one of these, you'd be set! I suppose that you could do what many people do, leave it in there to keep it original, but wire around it. In my 124 I replaced it with a scrap piece of black plastic cut to fit exactly and taped to the wood on the underside. Not a great solution but it looks fairly stock. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in it and wiring in a small knob there as a volume control for the subwoofer. Or maybe a toggle switch for the photon torpedoes. ;) Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Good feelings
as someone who grew up and is still routinely in heavy mixed traffic and/or on motorcycles, i find it not only simple, but my responsibility (to both myself and others) to always know what's going on around me. were that to change, it would be time to turn in the Drivers License. i love our good classic equipment, but believe Good Feelings come as much or more from Situational Awareness and the ability to *prevent* issues as they do from successfully surviving them. cheers! e David Brodbeck wrote: ernest breakfield wrote: you should already *know* whether or not there's someone in your blind spot; when it becomes time for an Emergency Avoidance maneuver, it's far too late to start figuring out what's going on around you. Ideally, yes, but in heavy mixed freeway traffic it's not always possible. Every moment you spend checking over your shoulder is a moment when you're not paying attention to what's going on up ahead. And those motorcycles can be devilishly hard to see when they're cozied up next to your rear fenders.
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
I cannot see how a bad diode/Rectifier, loose belt, bad fuse etc can keep the light on as you describe. If you read my reply , everything I predict happens, including the last part. The lamp gets ground from the I wire only, and only when the alternator charges. With the key of, do any other switched loads remain on, like windshield wiper, radio, etc? Check the wires at the switch. Only one wire should be hot with the switch in the off position. On 12/6/06, MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to all for your input. I just checked a few more things. Battery takes a charge with charger. Car starts with good battery. Light goes off when car starts. Light comes on when car is shut off. Voltage at battery cables with car running and unhooked from battery is 11.1 at idle to 12.2 when revved up with no lights or fans on. Other facts: Light goes out when I disconnect the alternator. I put a new Regulator in about a month ago. Thanks again for any other thoughts. Mike in Michigan - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Red dash light for Battery is staying on i suspect the electrical part in your ignition switch. There may be some ice inside so the swith doesn't work. The charging light gets fed 12V from the switch to one side and ground (I wire) through the field windings on the other. Key on - the lamp lights. When the Alternator is producing output, the windings become forward 12V and the light goes ot since the lamp now has 12V at both sides. On a swith that doesn't work, with the key on or off the light stays where the switch failed. With the car running and the alternator 'alternatering', the light will go off, irregardless of the swith. On 12/5/06, MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on position. In addition the glow light did not come on when I tried starting it. It is about 20 digress F out there tonight. I did not start. I am going out to try it again.Any ideas? Thanks, Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
should say:' is not charging' and only when the alternator 'charges'. -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Update Re: Red dash light for Battery is staying on
On 12/7/06, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The lamp gets ground from the I wire only, and only when the alternator charges. Incorrect, which is why your ign. switch idea is incorrect. As put by Peter Federick The alternator light is the indicator in a voltage balance circuit -- it says there is current flowing through the alternator winding, not balanced by output. The circuit is usually not directional, so current flow from the battery to the alternator will cause it to come on (not chargine), but so will current flow from a short. It's def'n the alternator. Mike
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
No. Chris K Cayce, SC hahaha, thats funny. Has stu responded yet? I have got behind reading that list, or skimming thru rather.
[MBZ] HIGHLY OT: Re: Ritter vs Stern
If Hurst was slightly more videogenic, he could have a job for life as a libbral-baiter on Crossfire. Come to think of it forget the lefties, half an hour of Hurst and Pat Buchanan would be absolutely priceless. Mac on 12/7/06 11:04 AM, Gary Hurst at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i look at from a slightly different perspective. how can a poof know so much about lightbulbs?
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
Stern is becoming mainstream in his old age. Back in the day, he got kicked off just about every automotive list on the Net for abusing anyone who dared question him on anything. Beyond lighting, he is quite an authority on Iacocca-ero Mopars and vintage Volvos. If you dare lock horns with him, besides knowing your stuff you had better have a rhino-thick skin and an extensive and highly colorful vocabulary. My instinct is that Stu will duck this one, as he has in the past proven he has neither. Mac on 12/6/06 10:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. It is bad and improper advice for the following reason: Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to over 12 atmospheres *when cold*. Basic laws of chemistry (PV=nRT) tell us that with no escape, the gas pressure inside the bulb will skyrocket with increasing temperature. These bulbs are not designed to handle the heat, or the current load on the common filament support lead, of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying the lens and reflector with hot, sharp shrapnel. Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the Brite Box people have made a business out of this clever (not) modification. Running the lows with the highs can only be done safely if the two functions are produced by separate single-filament bulbs. Very occasionally, even a reputable maker will produce a bulb with a defect in its glass or quartz envelope, and such bulbs can explode at random while in service. Or, if significant liquid water enters the headlamp (as for example via a faulty seal or cracked lens), and splashes on the hot bulb, the bulb glass can and often will shatter. But, wiring up the low + high filament to run at the same time in a 2-filament bulb of any wattage rating is begging for bulb explosions. This has been explained to Stu often; each time he has dismissed the explanation, insisted there's no problem, and carried on refusing to make the connection between his improper wiring and his bulb-explosion problem. There is another very good reason not to run the lows and/or fogs together with the highs in an H4 system: It doesn't help you see better. The low beam and fog beam direct their light primarily downward (fog lamps) or downward/rightward (low beams in right-traffic countries). High beams direct their light primarily straight ahead. The brighter the foreground light, the more the driver's pupils constrict, with a resultant significant decrease in distance vision. There are headlamp systems (w/multiple single-function beams, not 2-filament) that *rely* on the low beam being lit when the high beam is on; in these systems the low beam provides the width and fill, while the high beam produces the distance reach. But, there are also headlamp systems in which the high beams are designed to produce the width, fill, and reach all by themselves, and increasing foreground illumination by means of the low and/or fog beams just spoils distance vision as described above and at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html . Indiscriminately adding more and more and more light by miswiring the various forward illumination functions usually does not genuinely improve the safety performance of the lights or the driver's real ability to see what he needs to see. The same goes for just picking the highest-wattage bulbs available. It's not necessarily the way to optimize lighting performance. As wattage increases, the size of the filament necessarily increases, both in length and in diameter. This has a strongly negative effect on beam focus -- the more closely the filament approximates a point source of light, the better the beam focus, and the greater the size of
Re: [MBZ] 1993 400SEL
Thanks Sunil- Are these problems related to high mileage? Also this one is a southern rust free beauty. Dwight -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sunil Hari Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:49 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1993 400SEL If that's the 140 chassis, same problem as the 350SDL (minus the rodbending issue) - expensive electrical fixes, evaporator issues, etc. On 12/7/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wondering what the pros and cons of one of these are? Any worries? Has anybody had one? Friend found one with 65K.. TIA. Dwight Dwight E. Giles, Jr. 1979 240D-250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles Wickford, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 1993 400SEL
They're more related to the early production 140's. I've yet to see a rusty 140. As in, any rust. I don't see a ton of northern ones, but my mom's spent the first part of its life in PA and has no rust. Unless the car is a real steal (under 10k), which low mileage ones never are, AND has records documenting lots of work, I'd look for a 97-99 S320 if you want to get into the 140's and don't want to spend a ton on upkeep. Very nice ones with 60-90k can be bought for 13-15k - you didn't mention the asking price of the 400, but I'd guess its close to that range. With the supurb 5 speed tranny and excellent M104 I-6, its just a better car IMHO. Mike On 12/7/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Sunil- Are these problems related to high mileage? Also this one is a southern rust free beauty. Dwight -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sunil Hari Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:49 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1993 400SEL If that's the 140 chassis, same problem as the 350SDL (minus the rodbending issue) - expensive electrical fixes, evaporator issues, etc. On 12/7/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wondering what the pros and cons of one of these are? Any worries? Has anybody had one? Friend found one with 65K.. TIA. Dwight Dwight E. Giles, Jr. 1979 240D-250K + miles 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles Wickford, RI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] HIGHLY OT: Re: Ritter vs Stern
yes, i dig that patrick buchanan fellow. that would be a good show. pat can be johnny and i can be ed . we invite guests and explain to them why they are traitors and morons. yes, yes, this works for me :) On 12/7/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If Hurst was slightly more videogenic, he could have a job for life as a libbral-baiter on Crossfire. Come to think of it forget the lefties, half an hour of Hurst and Pat Buchanan would be absolutely priceless. Mac on 12/7/06 11:04 AM, Gary Hurst at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i look at from a slightly different perspective. how can a poof know so much about lightbulbs? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
On 12/7/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: he is quite an authority on Iacocca-ero Mopars and vintage Volvos. Iacocca-era Mopars? Like the Dodge Omni and Plymouth Horizon, or the K-Car's? Am I missing something - who would WANT to be an expert on those? Mike
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
i've always liked stern. he's a handful and knows a ton of stuff. it's like wrestling a bear. I rather enjoy it even though i never get the best of him. stu is a different kind of cat. he works authoritarian. he is no match for stern in a battle of wits. he will either run or denounce stern to the revolution, but he doesn't have the stuff to go wrestle the bear. your analysis is spot on here as far as i can see. is there such a thing as a canadien intelligence service for you to sign up with or are you just forever stuck giving out welfare checks to drug addicts and the malformed? On 12/7/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Stern is becoming mainstream in his old age. Back in the day, he got kicked off just about every automotive list on the Net for abusing anyone who dared question him on anything. Beyond lighting, he is quite an authority on Iacocca-ero Mopars and vintage Volvos. If you dare lock horns with him, besides knowing your stuff you had better have a rhino-thick skin and an extensive and highly colorful vocabulary. My instinct is that Stu will duck this one, as he has in the past proven he has neither. Mac on 12/6/06 10:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's a post from the Ritter list taking His Eminence to task. Question is, will it be Ritter or VanCleef that kicks the poster off? Message: 10 Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 12:29:30 -0600 From: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MB] Automotive Lighting Query I received the following from Daniel Stern after asking him about the recent lighting questions on the list here. For what it's worth, I'd rather see a few sparks fly here than on the road! Gerry -- Forwarded message -- From: Daniel Stern Lighting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Dec 6, 2006 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Re: Automotive Lighting Query] To: Gerry Visel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, GV. Numerous times in the past, Stu has advocated wiring up H4 headlamps such that the high and low beam filaments can be burned at the same time. See for example http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/w124.htm . If I am not mistaken, this same advice is contained in his W124 bible, and he has repeated it widely in various discussion forums. It is bad and improper advice for the following reason: Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to over 12 atmospheres *when cold*. Basic laws of chemistry (PV=nRT) tell us that with no escape, the gas pressure inside the bulb will skyrocket with increasing temperature. These bulbs are not designed to handle the heat, or the current load on the common filament support lead, of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying the lens and reflector with hot, sharp shrapnel. Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the Brite Box people have made a business out of this clever (not) modification. Running the lows with the highs can only be done safely if the two functions are produced by separate single-filament bulbs. Very occasionally, even a reputable maker will produce a bulb with a defect in its glass or quartz envelope, and such bulbs can explode at random while in service. Or, if significant liquid water enters the headlamp (as for example via a faulty seal or cracked lens), and splashes on the hot bulb, the bulb glass can and often will shatter. But, wiring up the low + high filament to run at the same time in a 2-filament bulb of any wattage rating is begging for bulb explosions. This has been explained to Stu often; each time he has dismissed the explanation, insisted there's no problem, and carried on refusing to make the connection between his improper wiring and his bulb-explosion problem. There is another very good reason not to run the lows and/or fogs together with the highs in an H4 system: It doesn't help you see better. The low beam and fog beam direct their light primarily downward (fog lamps) or downward/rightward (low beams in right-traffic countries). High beams direct their light primarily straight ahead. The brighter the foreground light, the more the driver's pupils constrict, with a resultant significant decrease in distance vision. There are headlamp systems (w/multiple single-function beams, not 2-filament) that *rely* on the low beam being lit when the high beam is on; in these systems the low beam provides the width and fill, while the high beam produces the distance reach. But, there are also headlamp systems in which the high beams are designed to produce the width, fill, and reach all by themselves, and increasing foreground illumination by means of the low and/or fog beams just spoils distance vision as described above and at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html . Indiscriminately adding
[MBZ] New Alternator - Was red dash light
Again thanks for all your input. I checked Rusty's site and he has two brands 65 amp remanufactured alternators for sale. One is a Bosch and the other a Denso The Bosch is about $40.00 bucks cheaper than the Denso. Any thoughts? Mike in Michigan
Re: [MBZ] New Alternator - Was red dash light
Mike, Some of us-Curt and I to name two have had a lot of problems with rebuilt Bosch alternators that we bought locally NOT from Rusty. Rusty told me that he sells about 400 of these a year and has had no problems. I am on my 5th one in 18 months on the 240D-one was bad right out of the box. All of mine have failed within the 1 year guarantee. HTH Dwight -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MICHAEL ESH Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:17 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New Alternator - Was red dash light Again thanks for all your input. I checked Rusty's site and he has two brands 65 amp remanufactured alternators for sale. One is a Bosch and the other a Denso The Bosch is about $40.00 bucks cheaper than the Denso. Any thoughts? Mike in Michigan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Ritter vs Stern
your analysis is spot on here as far as i can see. is there such a thing as a canadien intelligence service for you to sign up with or are you just forever stuck giving out welfare checks to drug addicts and the malformed? WHAT?? Hursty is dissing his malformed brethren? Jeff Zedic Toronto Canadian Security Intelligence Service (CSIS) check it out
[MBZ] Update: help w/ 84 300sd
Finally able to get GP's and relay in my 84, it was a lot harder than i thought due to my big hands. Banged the heck out of my forearms and hands. Got all but one of the GP's replaced, was afraid that i was going to break the wiring attached to the GP, couldn't get it off the end of the GP. Once all was done car styarrted up on 1st try when it was cold outside and after sitting outside last night. That's one project off of my list, my next one is the steering shock. How do i replace this, I located it earlier but just want to get it right the first time. Thanks for yalls help EmilHouston,TX. 1984 300SD - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Mercedes Digest, Vol 13, Issue 19 Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 00:29:18 + Send Mercedes mailing list submissions to mercedes@okiebenz.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Mercedes digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: OT: Big Brother is Nearby (Tyler Backman) 2. Re: '86 BMW 524TD on Portland, OR CL ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 3. Re: Posted my wagon to eBay (TimothyPilgrim) 4. Re: anybody need a 5 speed Getrag? (tom savage) 5. Re: Posted my wagon to eBay (E M) 6. Re: OT: Big Brother is Nearby (Sunil Hari) 7. Re: OT: Big Brother is Nearby (Steve MacSween) 8. Re: OT: Big Brother is Nearby (Steve MacSween) 9. Re: OT: Big Brother is Nearby (Tyler Backman) 10. 1987 300SDL PICTURES (Tarek Elshenawy) 11. How good is an OM603 in the cold? (Jeff Zedic) 12. Re: 1987 300SDL PICTURES (Werner Fehlauer) 13. Re: How good is an OM603 in the cold? (Marshall Booth) 14. Re: Good feelings (kevin kraly) 15. Re: leaky trunk 1983 300sD (kevin kraly) 16. Re: 1987 300SDL PICTURES (Tarek Elshenawy) 17. Re: Good feelings (Rich Thomas) 18. Re: Good feelings (Peter Frederick) 19. Red dash light for Battery is staying on (MICHAEL ESH) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 11:08:57 -0800 From: Tyler Backman Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Big Brother is Nearby To: Mercedes Discussion List Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 I think they should learn to drive on an VW Bus with 40HP and a low- tech 3 speed automatic with worn out carbs like I did. I wanted to drive irresponsibly, but it was just impossible. That all changed when I got a 5 speed Volvo 740 Turbo a few years later though... I got to spend a night in jail before I learned to slow down a bit (and purchased a radar detector). It can literally go twice as fast as my 240D on WOT 3 series BMW? A 320 or 318 is about as fast (err... slow) as a 300D. A 325 or M3 though is a different story. Tyler On Dec 5, 2006, at 10:43 AM, Werner Fehlauer wrote: Larry - a better car to train teens would be a stick shift 240D without air or radio, preferably with at least one flat so that they would have to learn how to change a tire; then when the clutch got worn out, they could also learn another valuable lesson in maintenance by crawling under and replacing that, too. My father got me a '34 Chevy 4 door when I started driving, and I had to do all the work, including replacing the tranny when I broke the first one. After 18 months I had made it ready for the scrap yard, and then he let me drive his hand-me-down '49 Ford 6 cylinder, which still almost got me killed by going too fast. I made all my children (girls) learn to drive in a stick shift, how to change tires, change oil, and when they broke something mechanical, assist me in doing the repairs. All of them have now survived over 30 years accident free, and their cars seem to last a lot longer than the manufacturer's would like, and the cars get regular service. IMO, letting an 18 year old into a 3 series BMW or a 'vette is putting them in serious harm's way! Werner -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFdcPJt178NxI/higRAid7AJ9pJ/O6Y821yzUuW71DpHbDhd6wvwCgn1gS EsvdJIkbEhElmXOxa4wgdJg= =qm1j -END PGP SIGNATURE- -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 14:09:43 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 BMW 524TD on Portland, OR CL To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Maybe what I encountered was just a few isolated incidents, but for starters blown head gaskets and warped heads. Numerous computer problems that were hard
