[MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
Funny how that thread veered off from Diesels in NA to Mazda. The article exclaims that cars with diesels don't sell in the USA. They are not available, that's why. No law that they can't be sold, but the deal we made, Mr. importer, is off if you do. Hybrids are the IN-thing for the moment (just wait till the Prius needs a new battery bank). And our infamous EPA, in bed with the Detroit giants, has everything and all to do with that. On 1/10/07, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Funny that this thread came up. Last night at the supermarket here in the UK, some punk kid had a club cab Ford Ranger with a short box and 20 ghetto rims. Diesel engine and he was driving like the total tosser he was. You should've seen the thing lurch into the corners. I made sure he knew from me that he was a tosser. But it was a diesel...funny the differences between Ford Europe and Ford US.loads of diesel Land Rovers here almost enough to make you want one but not quitestill a LR. Going to look at a C220 CDI wagon tomorrow.1999. Was also thinking of checking out a 1992 (!!) 190 2.5 manualgoing cheap. Body clading like the late 124's have. Oh, yes, have a line on a 1995 300D NA manual fo 3.5k US. Also a 1995 C220 manual for $3kREALLY nice looking It's like a toy store here for guys like us! WOOHOO! Jeff Zedic London Currently carless, never mind Benzless ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Mileage
Curt could you email that spread sheet to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED], love to use it too if you do not mind Regards Tom Scordato 1979 240D - Original Message - From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 5:29 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mileage I've gotten as we say wicked nerdy about mileage on my 190D. I have a spreadsheet with nearly all (and I was some pissed to have missed the 2 or 3 I've missed) the fillups for the last 20,000 miles. Then it breaks out how much fuel I've used, how many miles I've traveled, the average for each tank, the average over all. How much each tank cost per gallon, the high and low for that and now I'm just starting monthly (and now that I think of it maybe quarterly) breakdowns... My mileage spreadsheet is becoming a work of art. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 16:09:53 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mileage To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original If anyone is interested 1979 240D, which I log in every tank full is getting around 27 to 28 mpg, highway, 22-24 city automatic tranny. Comes in around 26 mpg average +/- the 190Ds do a nicer job in the sustainability department. That is a nice selling/purchasing point for future reference. Wonder what a 1972 220D, 115 chassis automatic gets?? Probably the same as a 240D Good info Marshall and Curt Regards Tom Scordato - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Rear Brake Job - 1983 240 D
Check or change the soft break lines, replace the front brake wear indicator units, bleed system replace with a good brake fluid I use approved Valvoline synthetic if it has not been done in a few years or less depending on driving. Regards Tom Scordato - Original Message - From: MICHAEL ESH [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:33 PM Subject: [MBZ] Rear Brake Job - 1983 240 D I am replacing the brake pads, rotors and emergency brake shoes on my 1983 240 D in next week or so and was wondering if there is any thing else to check back there while I have things apart? Is there a way for a lay person to determine if the axles need attention? I have replaced the front calipers and pads already. I am not sure of the condition other than the pads are very worn and the car sat outside for at least three years before I bought it. I had to break loose the pads form the rotors before we could move it.The rear brakes squeal mildly occasionally especially after a highway trip however they quiet down fairly quickly. Also the emergency brake pedal isn't effective unless it is depressed almost all of the way. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Mike in Michigan 1983 240D - 288000 miles 1982 300TD 1981 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Evap leak, was Vergasser vs. Diesel
A conversion to R134A will result in deterioration of all the seal rings in the hose fittings and compressor. These leaks are very small individual and almost impossible to detect, but in concert can bleed the system very fast. Best remedy is to remove ALL black O-ring seals and replace them with R134A resistant green ones. On 1/10/07, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Using a normal leak detector you can charge system and let sit for an hour, place detector probe near drain for evap, since Freon is heavier than air the sensor will go off. Other methods used are to place sensor in center vent and turn fan on low. This in my experiences often gives false positive readings. Also I thought I heard that the 300D and 90's W126/W124 had evaporator leaks, I am sure others here can confirm this. Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Allan Streib Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:15 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vergasser vs. Diesel, was 87 TD for sale Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The most common AC leak is the expansion valve, second in my opinion is the charging ports, then front compressor seals and finally evaporator. Some late models had lots of evaporator problems. My W123 300D will not hold an AC charge. Leaks down in less than a week. My mechanic put a dye in the system and could not locate the leak. He said he checked the expansion valve (it's behind the glovebox, right?) The only thing he could not get at was the evap. It was convereted to R134 by a prior owner. Does that sound like the evap is the problem, then, or could it be the expansion valve but for some reason the dye did not appear there? Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) FordDiesels?
We in NA have let the utopians run amok, IMO - just as M-B made a quiet, smokeless, clean Diesel in 2005 that was rated in the high 30 mpg range, California and its following in New England jacked up the requirements another notch, which drive VW from the 2007 market, and obviously has Detroit staying out of trying to hit a moving target. Even the 2007 M-B CDI with Urea injection may have trouble by 2010 as the Californians and their friends (including the EPA) change the rules some more. Meanwhile, the US and OPEC oil barons get rich importing oil and selling to a gullible public that is perfectly happy to drive vehicles that get from 10 to 25 mpg. The fact that Diesels work, save fuel, don't pollute is evident in Europe where over 50% of Mercedes-Benz and BMWs, and almost all other manufacturers products are Diesels. Its a technology that is here NOW, and not some pie in the sky hydrogen fuel cell or expensive hybrid designs that only appear at car shows. OPEC and our oil companies are laughing all the way to the bank. Werner - Original Message - From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:42 PM Subject: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) FordDiesels? Funny how that thread veered off from Diesels in NA to Mazda. The article exclaims that cars with diesels don't sell in the USA. They are not available, that's why. No law that they can't be sold, but the deal we made, Mr. importer, is off if you do. Hybrids are the IN-thing for the moment (just wait till the Prius needs a new battery bank). And our infamous EPA, in bed with the Detroit giants, has everything and all to do with that.
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
I heard from the head of the local MB dealer's shop that they stopped putting them on the lot here in 1986, because they could not get buyers to even test drive them. Absolutely refused. Turned themselves inside out for a 420, refused to even look at a 300SDL, even though they are very similar in performance except that the 300SDL gets 30 mpg and the 420 gets 16 on the highway. Go figure. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Evap leak, was Vergasser vs. Diesel
I will second that -- it took three tries to get the AC working on my TE for that very reason -- the 0-rings croaked. Replace the four big ones between the compressor and hose manifold while you're at it, and the ones between hose manifold and hose set. Requires pulling the compressor, but you avoid venting it down again. You can dump the compressor oil and replace with PAG at the same time, works better. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires
Allan Streib wrote: Some misguided PO or brake shop *cut* the wires to the connector blocks on my 300D. That's OK. I heard a rumor that there's some guy in Oklahoma that sells used W123 parts. I bet those wires almost never wear out. Mitch.
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65, Topic 2 Mileage
I must really be doing something wrong. I have an 82 300SD with 125k miles and drive 25 miles to work (mostly highway) and rarely get better than 23-24 mpg (at 65-70mph). I use Red Line Diesel Catalyst and try to watch my tire pressure. The previous owner said that he had had the values adjusted and also reported 28 mph on the highway at 70 mph. Any thoughts? Peter Peter Van Pelt 1982 300SD Owasso, OK -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:15 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65 Send Mercedes mailing list submissions to mercedes@okiebenz.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Mercedes digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ford Diesels? (Curt Raymond) 2. Re: Mileage (Dan Weeks) 3. Re: V12 woes in NE (James Zavesky) 4. Brake pad sensor wires (Chris Kueny) 5. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Levi Smith) 6. Re: AC Flat (Glenn M. Brown) 7. replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Kevin J. Slater) 8. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Chris Kueny) 9. Re: Vergasser vs. Diesel, was 87 TD for sale (Trampas) 10. Evap leak, was Vergasser vs. Diesel (Trampas) 11. Re: OT : VW passat OBD2 code (Trampas) 12. Re: replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Trampas) 13. Re: replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Tom Hargrave) 14. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (kevin kraly) 15. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (kevin kraly) 16. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Levi Smith) 17. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (Werner Fehlauer) 18. Re: Mileage ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) -- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 11:34:08 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Assuming it can do something like 25mpg I'd consider an F150 with a diesel engine... About the only way I'd consider a fullsize pickup. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:23:36 -0500 From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 This copied from an AutoWeek Email today: Ford won't use European diesels for cars in the States By RICHARD TRUETT | AUTOMOTIVE NEWS AutoWeek | Published 01/10/07, 10:22 am et DETROIT -- Ford Motor Co. can't make money selling cars with diesel engines in the United States. So it will use diesels only in trucks in North America. Ford's powertrain plans became clearer at a pre-Detroit auto show event here last month. Mark Fields, Ford's president of the Americas, said the company will not launch a vehicle unless it makes money. The F-150 pickup will get a new 4.4-liter turbocharged V-8 diesel engine developed by Land Rover. It is expected to debut in the United States by late 2008. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. -- Message: 2 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:37:03 -0600 From: Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mileage To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed My '82 SD with 290k averaged 27.2 mpg on a recent 1533 mile trip from Des Moines to Sedgwick, Maine, laden with three people, a dog, and a very full trunk. According to the GPS, average speed for that trip, ikncluding stops, was 66 mph; much of the time we were running 80-85. I had been averaging 25 mpg in similar driving before getting the valves adjusted. On the return, heading into a 30-35 mph headwind the whole way, and with two 16-foot rowing shells on the roof, running 70-75, I got 22.0 mpg. I was very pleased in both instances. Dan Dan Weeks Freelance Writer and Photographer 515/279-4825 [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Message: 3 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:39:52 -0500 From: James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] V12 woes in NE To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I like that. Back should be strong enough to support the trip to Columbus next month. February is going to be busy. Jim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
Kevin wrote: Not back then. The B2000 line was quite different from a Ranger of the era. Do you remember when a Ford Courier was a Mazda pickup? Or when the Chevy Luv was a Isuzu P'up? Or when a Dodge 50 was a Mitsubishi? Those little rust buckets were cheap, fun to drive, and got 30-40mpg. Mitch.
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
On Wed, Jan 10, 2007 at 08:15:09PM -0500, Mitch Haley wrote: Kevin wrote: Not back then. The B2000 line was quite different from a Ranger of the era. Do you remember when a Ford Courier was a Mazda pickup? Or when the Chevy Luv was a Isuzu P'up? Or when a Dodge 50 was a Mitsubishi? Those little rust buckets were cheap, fun to drive, and got 30-40mpg. Yup, I remember those. One used to live down the street a long time ago, though it was a mazda - had a rotary in it. K
Re: [MBZ] '82SD Mileage
Peter - the valves are supposed to be checked every 15k miles. When they are, check the timing chain. A car with such low mileage may not have had the benefit of good lubrication that comes with lack of use. My '83SD, with 223k miles, was checked about 8k miles back, and the stretch of the chain was less than 2%. I have been using Delvac 1, now with 10k mile intervals after lab tests proved that 5k changes were too conservative and wasteful. Of course, the air filters and intake passages are clear, right? Werner '83SD 223k '90D 228k - Original Message - From: Peter Van Pelt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:10 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65, Topic 2 Mileage I must really be doing something wrong. I have an 82 300SD with 125k miles and drive 25 miles to work (mostly highway) and rarely get better than 23-24 mpg (at 65-70mph). I use Red Line Diesel Catalyst and try to watch my tire pressure. The previous owner said that he had had the values adjusted and also reported 28 mph on the highway at 70 mph. Any thoughts? Peter Peter Van Pelt 1982 300SD Owasso, OK
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
Hans Neureiter wrote: Funny how that thread veered off from Diesels in NA to Mazda. The article exclaims that cars with diesels don't sell in the USA. They are not available, that's why. VW TDIs tend not to stay on the lot long, but I suspect VW is carefully limiting supply to make sure that stays true. Americans just aren't as keen on diesels as Europeans, present company excepted. Part of this is because diesel is taxed less than gasoline in Europe, whereas is the opposite here, which makes the financial incentives to buy diesels a lot lower. It will also take a while for the new, cleaner diesels to win people over. A lot of people still think of diesel cars as smelly, sooty, noisy, underpowered vehicles that won't start in cold weather. Diesels are well accepted in the truck market but seeing Ford Powerstrokes clattering and belching soot doesn't help people accept the same technology in cars. ;) Besides the gee whiz factor, I think a big reason hybrids have caught the public's attention is they're seen as delivering diesel fuel economy, but with clean gasoline instead of stinky, sooty diesel.
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
Hans Neureiter wrote: And our infamous EPA, in bed with the Detroit giants, has everything and all to do with that. Oh, one more thing...if the EPA was in bed with Detroit, I wouldn't expect them to be pushing hybrid tech. The Big 3 are way behind in that area. They'd have an easier time making diesels instead of trying to catch up to the Japanese on hybrid technology, if they were capable of successfully pitching diesel cars to the public.
Re: [MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions
I stuck my nose under the hood with a maglite just to see what I could find from the top... There's an oily stain running down the plenum tube, dripping off onto the crossmember and continuing down the hose connecting to the intercooler. From what I can tell, the source seems to be from in between the EGR valve saucer and the body of the Housing, Mixing chamber with integrated EGR valve (Doesn't that sound like it is just BEGGING someone to stencil an NSN on the side of it?) I was able to see the backside of the oil cooler (it is just behind the bumper, forward of the AC filter drier) and the back of it was clean aluminium (I know this means little, since a leak wouldn't necessarily be blown through the cooler to the backside). Also, digging in the EPC, there are four oil cooler lines: two hard lines from the cooler that go up into the engine compartment (around the AC filter/drier) and then two hoses that go from those lines to the housing. The hard lines were getting rusty, and have been up-rev'd once each (but they did not seem to be leaking up top), the soft lines look okay (but have been up-rev'd twice each) (in the copy which I have access to)... I know that I cleaned off that EGR housing body about 5000 miles ago, and it is really black and gruddy looking, but just in a vertical swath below the diaphragm housing... Joy! -j.
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Mileage
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007, Donald Snook wrote: I have been seeing these numbers for exceptional fuel mileage on all sorts of cars and most of it surprises me. Now, I would never have believed that the 90 300D 2.5 I used to have would get 34 mpg, but it did. However, I am genuinely surprised to hear about 123's getting such good mileage. My 300SD got 26-27 regularly. I found the secret to good mileage on that one seemed to be go faster on the highway. Sadly this does not seem to be the case with the newer E300Dt's :( :( I know it isn't much of an issue to turn 27 with the 300D, and on the atlanta-baltimore run I think it turned between 28 and 29. -j. -- 1985 300D 223k Gerta 1991 Jeep Cherokee 149k the fishbowl 1999 E300Dt 106k (the creaky one) 1999 E300Dt 140k (the leaky one)
Re: [MBZ] defrost/heat questions (83 300SD
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007, kevin kraly wrote: Thanks for the clarification. My original thought was that the sensor was overridden once the wheel hit the detent, but I didn't know why. I've got one of them here (early 126 type 3 wheel) and it is a PC board with a pot on it and some traces in an arc. The wheel has metal fingers that short out the traces at the two ends of travel. Here's what I can figure out looking at it, it has 7 pin sockets, I'll number them (looking into the sockets) : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 The pot is connected so that the Min end of the element is on pin 7, the Max end on 2 and the wiper on 3. When the wheel is at Max, it shorts 5 and 6. At Min it shorts 1,5 and 7. Anywhere else in its travel, the wheel shorts 4 and 5. HTH (clear as mud right?) (dont have a digicam handy) -j. -- 1985 300D 223k Gerta 1991 Jeep Cherokee 149k the fishbowl 1999 E300Dt 106k (the creaky one) 1999 E300Dt 140k (the leaky one)
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007, Jeff Zedic wrote: But it was a diesel...funny the differences between Ford Europe and Ford US.loads of diesel Land Rovers here almost enough to make you want one but not quitestill a LR. Going to look at a C220 CDI wagon tomorrow.1999. I think theres a place in vermont called rutland motorcars that sells diesel LR's (This is just a FYI, its not an endorsement, but I'm not saying to stay away, im just saying that the place exists ;) -j.
Re: [MBZ] Rear Brake Job - 1983 240 D
Check the flexible lines that connect to the caliper. If they are old, or the age is unknown, replace them. This does involve opening up the brake system so you will have to bleed the brakes. I have a pressure bleeder I bought from www.germanautoparts.com and I would never bleed any other way after having used that. Check the rear sway bar links. If the little ball joints are loose or and dried out, these are cheap and easy to replace. Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230
Re: [MBZ] Evap leak, was Vergasser vs. Diesel
I was sort of thinking of flushing out the whole system and converting it back to AutoFrost, or even R12. Though I know that the HC refrigerants are NOT good in a leaky system, because the individual component gasses do not bleed off at the same rate, so if you have leaks, you end up with a sub-optimal blend of gasses. Guess if the R134a has eaten the O-rings I need to replace them in any case Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230 Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I will second that -- it took three tries to get the AC working on my TE for that very reason -- the 0-rings croaked. Replace the four big ones between the compressor and hose manifold while you're at it, and the ones between hose manifold and hose set. Requires pulling the compressor, but you avoid venting it down again. You can dump the compressor oil and replace with PAG at the same time, works better. Peter
[MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
i had all four taken out more than 10 years ago - was back at school in 2 days. You'll be ok. On 1/10/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
i had one that had to come out. they suggested i might as well remove all 4 while i'm there. yeah, right, like hell i am it was ok. had an old navy dentist. all business and no messing around. still hear the cracking sound in my mind at times. On 1/10/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: i had all four taken out more than 10 years ago - was back at school in 2 days. You'll be ok. On 1/10/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
I shall feel your pain a week from tomorrow...if I ever get over this wretched head cold. Bob R - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:49 PM Subject: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires
Some misguided PO or brake shop *cut* the wires to the connector blocks on my 300D. Fortunately used ones are available. That's what I'd do. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Mileage
Wonder what a 1972 220D, 115 chassis automatic gets? A 1972 200D 115 manual gets 30-31 around town. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] What kind of oil would I use for this?
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 12:35:45 -0500 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: J wrote:you must be running with german helium or As it happens, the US has the worlds supply of Helium - which is why the Germans used highly explosive Hydrogen in their Zeppelins - and why they burned like crazy - The hydrogen certainly helped start the conflagration, but it was the nitro- based paints that really caused the problems. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
Assuming it can do something like 25mpg I'd consider an F150 with a diesel engine... My 3/4 ton Dodge diesel will turn in 25-26 mpg, at 60 MPH on the freeway. 20-21 for more normal freeway speeds. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] AC Flat
What does R134a smell like? You'd have to ask the refrigerant leak sniffing tool what it thought. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] AC Flat
Speaking of smell of AC gas -- since the changeover to 134 it seems there a really odd odor when I set the system to recirculate - but only after 10 or 15 minutes with it like that - Mold smell, or oil smell? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] What kind of oil would I use for this?
The hydrogen certainly helped start the conflagration, but it was the nitro- based paints that really caused the problems. Saw a special on that. The hydrogen didn't start the fire, it was a spark across improperly grounded skin panels. The fabric doping, new for the Hindenburg, was a mixture of aluminum powder and iron oxide. Anybody else remember the formula for thermite? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] AC Flat
In a message dated 1/10/2007 12:51:21 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I had my '84 300D AC converted to R134 ~ 10 years ago and, other than having to get a recharge every 2-3 years as the car sat garaged during those winters, I haven't noticed any odors. The only problem I see with R134 is that the system needs to be topped up in order to work efficiently enough, otherwise it'll barely keep up when in the high 80'sF. G. M. Brown GM Be very sure your topping off includes a couple ounces of oil, else the compressor will die when the leak finally carries the last of your oil away. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 264 K miles 98 ML 320, 147 K miles
Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 16:37:48 -0500 Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Umm... There are a couple of parts there; there are sensor wires- one inserted in each pad, that run to a connector block, these are trivial to replace; then there is the wiring harness, which has one end bolted to the caliper and the other end is somewhere in the bowels of the wiring harness within the vehicle. If a sensor wire was snapped, thats easy. If the other wire was destroyed ick. Some misguided PO or brake shop *cut* the wires to the connector blocks on my 300D. If they had bothered to look under the hood they would have seen the in-line plugs that could have been separated instead. I called Rusty to price replacement connector blocks, about $150 each. They come from Mercedes, there is no OEM part available. A lot of $$ just to have the indicator lamp tell me when the pads are worn. The cable from the in-line plug to the caliper wasn't too expensive from Rusty a couple of years ago when I replace mine on my 240D/3.0. Right brake sensor cable 126 540 82 07 Craig
[MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry
Re: [MBZ] What kind of oil would I use for this?
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 20:30:36 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The hydrogen certainly helped start the conflagration, but it was the nitro- based paints that really caused the problems. Saw a special on that. The hydrogen didn't start the fire, it was a spark across improperly grounded skin panels. The fabric doping, new for the Hindenburg, was a mixture of aluminum powder and iron oxide. Yes, thanks for correcting me on that. Anybody else remember the formula for thermite? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermite A thermite reaction is a type of aluminothermic reaction in which aluminium metal is oxidized by the oxide of another metal, most commonly iron oxide. The name thermite is also used to refer to a mixture of two such chemicals. The products are aluminium oxide, free elemental iron, and a large amount of heat. The reactants are commonly powdered and mixed with a binder to keep the material solid and prevent separation. The reaction is used for thermite welding, often used to join rails. Black or blue iron oxide (Fe3O4), produced by oxidizing iron in an oxygen-rich environment under high heat, is the most commonly used thermite oxidizing agent because it is inexpensive and easily produced. Red iron(III) oxide (Fe2O3, commonly known as rust) can also be used to make thermite and yields a significantly more energetic reaction. Other oxides are occasionally used, such as in manganese thermite and chromium thermite, but only for highly specialized purposes. Both examples use aluminium as the reactive metal. In principle, any reactive metal could be used instead of aluminum. This is rarely done, however, because the properties of aluminium are ideal for this reaction. It is by far the cheapest of the highly reactive metals; it also forms a passivation layer making it safer to handle than many other reactive metals. The melting and boiling points of aluminum also make it ideal for thermite reactions. Its relatively low melting point (660°C, 1221°F) means that it is easy to melt the metal, so that the reaction can occur mainly in the liquid phase[1] and thus proceeds fairly quickly. At the same time, its high boiling point (2519°C, 4566°F) enables the reaction to reach very high temperatures, since several processes tend to limit the maximum temperature to just below the boiling point.[2] Such a high boiling point is common among transition metals (e.g. iron and copper boil at 2887 °C and 2582 °C respectively), but is especially unusual among the highly reactive metals (cf. magnesium and sodium which boil at 1090 °C and 883 °C respectively). Although the reactants are stable at room temperature, they burn with an extremely intense exothermic reaction when they are heated to ignition temperature. The products emerge as liquids due to the high temperatures reached (up to 2500 °C (4500 °F) with iron(III) oxide)___although the actual temperature reached depends on how quickly heat can escape to the surrounding environment. Thermite contains its own supply of oxygen and does not require any external source of air. Consequently, it cannot be smothered and may ignite in any environment, given sufficient initial heat. It will burn well while wet and cannot be extinguished with water. Small amounts of water will boil before reaching the reaction. If thermite is ignited underwater, the molten iron produced will extract oxygen from water and generate hydrogen gas in a single-replacement reaction. This gas may, in turn, burn by combining with oxygen in the air. It continues, talking about how to ignite it safely. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] What kind of oil would I use for this?
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 20:30:36 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anybody else remember the formula for thermite? To see it in action, take a look at, http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7231843493488769585 Craig
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
Colorado/Canyon although those trucks are rated for pretty impressive mileage even with gas engines. I've never driven one but I'm told they pretty much sell themselves, like the Dakota did My dad had one a couple years ago, a little crew cab 2wd with the 2.8L 4 banger and the short 5' bed. It had pretty good power (170HP) and seemed to do OK with the auto tranny. It was pretty comfortable too. Gas mileage wasn't like that of the '03 Jetta wagon he traded for it though it was respectable for it's size, about 25MPG highway. At one time, he test drove one with the 3.5 liter 5 banger that puts out 220HP. He said that one really had some pep! Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300sD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Shag rugs on dash (was) defrost/heat questions (83 300SD
Gottlieb will pay you a visit and remove his signature sticker from the windshield! He and karl showed up late one night, but I was able to keep them at bay with the help of my guide dog! g I've gotta tet her fitted with the proper star VERY VERY SOON! Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
[MBZ] vista is torn a new one
so much so that apple put this link on their homepage. right now my interest in windows extends only to online poker and nothing beyond. as long as i can play online poker on xp pro, i won't even look at vista. the second i can play online poker on os x, my windows days will be forever ended. guess i've just become another zealot, huh? http://www.informationweek.com/news/showArticle.jhtml?articleID=196800670pgno=1queryText=
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
The Ranger pickup *is* a Mazda. Same vehicle. That's true now, but I don't believe that it was actually a Mazda until '93 when the Ranger body style changed over to the current one. My truck was a 1982, actually a Ford Courier which I don't believe was offered in a diesel. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
seeing Ford Powerstrokes clattering and belching soot doesn't help people accept the same technology in cars. ;) Besides the gee whiz factor, I think a big reason hybrids have caught the public's attention is they're seen as delivering diesel fuel economy, but with clean gasoline instead of stinky, sooty diesel. My '06 Dodge/Cummins is smooth, quiet, and doesn't have the TRADITIONAL diesel smell. I can smell that sooty smell when a PowerCHOKE goes by, powerCHOKE since one practically CHOKES when smelling the exhaust. The Duramax is much the same with very littel diesel smell, especially the newer ones. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
[MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
We had the SD out today, I'm so happy with this great car! The button next to DEF is definitely the way to go, and the system works very well! The fan changes speed as it should, and it doesn't have to be HOT HOT HOT in there all the time! I noticed an exhaust leak near the front of the car, and when it's idling with the blower on, there are exhaust fumes coming into the car. It's not noticeable when driving down the road though. I guess the air is pushing the fumes toward the rear of the car and out of the ventilation system intake. Another thing I've noticed is that the car idles better when cold than it does once it's warmed up. There's one cylinder that has some very minor but noticeable injector knocking/clunking going on, probably the source of the slightly shaky idle. Once it's off idle, it disappears as does the shaking. Once the weather gets a bit drier/warmer, I'll be able to start doing some fine tuning and, of course, a valve adjustment. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The Duramax is much the same with very littel diesel smell, especially the newer ones. Duramax is an Izuzu engine, is it not? Allan -- 1983 300D 1966 230
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
kevin kraly wrote: My '06 Dodge/Cummins is smooth, quiet, and doesn't have the TRADITIONAL diesel smell. I can smell that sooty smell when a PowerCHOKE goes by, powerCHOKE since one practically CHOKES when smelling the exhaust. To be fair, the Powerstrokes burn pretty clean as they come from the factory. But truck owners can't resist chipping their trucks, and that invariably makes more soot.
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
kevin kraly wrote: We had the SD out today, I'm so happy with this great car! So when are you selling it? Mitch.
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
Somehow brainwashing comes to mind. With media tools, like ads and other marketing aids, the public opinion can be, and obviously is, turned in one direction or another. Escapes me why diesels had been made looking bad ever since the 80's. Than there were MB's, Volvos, VW's, Peugeots, Mazdas and what not available with diesels and disappeared one by one 'cause they were sluggish, stank and smoked. Just about at the same time diesel pickups became popular. On 1/10/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I heard from the head of the local MB dealer's shop that they stopped putting them on the lot here in 1986, because they could not get buyers to even test drive them. Absolutely refused. Turned themselves inside out for a 420, refused to even look at a 300SDL, even though they are very similar in performance except that the 300SDL gets 30 mpg and the 420 gets 16 on the highway. Go figure. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65, Topic 2 Mileage
That sounds about right for your short trip compared to the highway mileage... Mike - Original Message - From: Peter Van Pelt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:10 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65, Topic 2 Mileage I must really be doing something wrong. I have an 82 300SD with 125k miles and drive 25 miles to work (mostly highway) and rarely get better than 23-24 mpg (at 65-70mph). I use Red Line Diesel Catalyst and try to watch my tire pressure. The previous owner said that he had had the values adjusted and also reported 28 mph on the highway at 70 mph. Any thoughts? Peter Peter Van Pelt 1982 300SD Owasso, OK -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 3:15 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 65 Send Mercedes mailing list submissions to mercedes@okiebenz.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Mercedes digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Ford Diesels? (Curt Raymond) 2. Re: Mileage (Dan Weeks) 3. Re: V12 woes in NE (James Zavesky) 4. Brake pad sensor wires (Chris Kueny) 5. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Levi Smith) 6. Re: AC Flat (Glenn M. Brown) 7. replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Kevin J. Slater) 8. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Chris Kueny) 9. Re: Vergasser vs. Diesel, was 87 TD for sale (Trampas) 10. Evap leak, was Vergasser vs. Diesel (Trampas) 11. Re: OT : VW passat OBD2 code (Trampas) 12. Re: replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Trampas) 13. Re: replacing the heater fan in a 1979 240D? (Tom Hargrave) 14. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (kevin kraly) 15. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (kevin kraly) 16. Re: Brake pad sensor wires (Levi Smith) 17. Re: defrost/heat questions (83 300SD (Werner Fehlauer) 18. Re: Mileage ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) -- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 11:34:08 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Assuming it can do something like 25mpg I'd consider an F150 with a diesel engine... About the only way I'd consider a fullsize pickup. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:23:36 -0500 From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 This copied from an AutoWeek Email today: Ford won't use European diesels for cars in the States By RICHARD TRUETT | AUTOMOTIVE NEWS AutoWeek | Published 01/10/07, 10:22 am et DETROIT -- Ford Motor Co. can't make money selling cars with diesel engines in the United States. So it will use diesels only in trucks in North America. Ford's powertrain plans became clearer at a pre-Detroit auto show event here last month. Mark Fields, Ford's president of the Americas, said the company will not launch a vehicle unless it makes money. The F-150 pickup will get a new 4.4-liter turbocharged V-8 diesel engine developed by Land Rover. It is expected to debut in the United States by late 2008. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. -- Message: 2 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:37:03 -0600 From: Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mileage To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed My '82 SD with 290k averaged 27.2 mpg on a recent 1533 mile trip from Des Moines to Sedgwick, Maine, laden with three people, a dog, and a very full trunk. According to the GPS, average speed for that trip, ikncluding stops, was 66 mph; much of the time we were running 80-85. I had been averaging 25 mpg in similar driving before getting the valves adjusted. On the return, heading into a 30-35 mph headwind the whole way, and with two 16-foot rowing shells on the roof, running 70-75, I got 22.0 mpg. I was very pleased in both instances. Dan Dan Weeks Freelance Writer and Photographer 515/279-4825 [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Message: 3 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:39:52 -0500 From: James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] V12 woes in NE To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I like that. Back should be
[MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage
Just resurrected an '85 300sd that has studded snows on the back. Anyone have a ballpark figure for how much MPG running studded tires costs? I have no idea- am only running the car for a few weeks to get to know it before I sell it. Tony Wirtel 300sd, 300e
Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
Dunno which is worse: a wisdom tooth-removal thread or another endless riff on synthetic vs. real motor oils... On 1/10/07, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I shall feel your pain a week from tomorrow...if I ever get over this wretched head cold. Bob R - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:49 PM Subject: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a numbing agent. However it does tend to make people a bit loopy... On 1/11/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dunno which is worse: a wisdom tooth-removal thread or another endless riff on synthetic vs. real motor oils... On 1/10/07, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I shall feel your pain a week from tomorrow...if I ever get over this wretched head cold. Bob R - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:49 PM Subject: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled today. Thats a story for banned, which, I think is on banned. I am NOT reading th elist now as Im too screwed up. Keep it under control :) -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage
Anyone have a ballpark figure for how much MPG running studded tires costs? Roughly: zero. Do watch out for tires that are the wrong size, that'll change things a bit if it affects the odometer/speedometer. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
source of the slightly shaky idle. Once it's off idle, it disappears as does the shaking. Once the weather gets a bit drier/warmer, I'll be able to start doing some fine tuning and, of course, a valve adjustment. Think: Italy. Your problem may go away on its own. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] [OT] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE [dentistry]
I hear thats not the only thing(s) that slide out easier when using M1. But- I recommend sedation for that. I had mine done years ago with that method, awoke doped with lidocane (makes me high as a kite) and a prescription for tylox. Went home, took them and slept for 4 days. went back 2 weeks later so they could remove all the stitching; apparently they had some complications in the removal (looking at the zig-zag scars that run from the inside corners of my lips to the back of my mouth on the inside of each cheek) .. although It does seem that I am a little more prone to biting my cheeks now. I definitely wouldn't call that a DIY job! -j. -- Original message -- From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a numbing agent. However it does tend to make people a bit loopy... From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 11 14:39:22 2007 Received: from mail.cnsp.com ([208.3.80.17] helo=mail.cnsp.biz) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1H515O-0005Og-8U for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 14:39:22 + Received: from localhost (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by mail.cnsp.biz (Postfix) with ESMTP id 53EF64A0A3B for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:35:58 -0700 (MST) X-Virus-Scanned: Debian amavisd-new at cnsp.biz Received: from mail.cnsp.biz ([127.0.0.1]) by localhost (mail.cnsp.biz [127.0.0.1]) (amavisd-new, port 10024) with LMTP id jaHFbVw4dONj for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:35:58 -0700 (MST) Received: from mccluskey.linux (208-3-82-31.cnsp.net [208.3.82.31]) by mail.cnsp.biz (Postfix) with SMTP id B0D5749F737 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:35:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:35:57 -0700 From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailer: Sylpheed version 1.0.6 (GTK+ 1.2.10; i386-redhat-linux-gnu) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 14:39:22 - On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 09:12:49 -0500 Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a numbing agent. However it does tend to make people a bit loopy... That's where the synthetic blinker fluid comes in ... Craig
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
Kevin - any exhaust leak in the engine compartment of a Diesel needs to be corrected ASAP, or you will get soot into the A/C and vent ducts, and coating everything around the engine. A common source of leaks is the flex, accordion like section that develops a fatigue crack, which lets a lot of soot circulate and get up into the cabin air intakes. On my white SD, the P.O. allowed that to happen, and I'm still working on removing soot from vents, ducts, and inside fender walls! Oh, Herr Benz fist name starts with a C, not K ;-))) Werner - Original Message - From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:44 AM Subject: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system We had the SD out today, I'm so happy with this great car! The button next to DEF is definitely the way to go, and the system works very well! The fan changes speed as it should, and it doesn't have to be HOT HOT HOT in there all the time! I noticed an exhaust leak near the front of the car, and when it's idling with the blower on, there are exhaust fumes coming into the car. It's not noticeable when driving down the road though. I guess the air is pushing the fumes toward the rear of the car and out of the ventilation system intake. Another thing I've noticed is that the car idles better when cold than it does once it's warmed up. There's one cylinder that has some very minor but noticeable injector knocking/clunking going on, probably the source of the slightly shaky idle. Once it's off idle, it disappears as does the shaking. Once the weather gets a bit drier/warmer, I'll be able to start doing some fine tuning and, of course, a valve adjustment. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Fw: Frozen Skunk
BBBWWWAAAHHAHAAHAHA NOW THAT IS FUNNY! Mike - Original Message - From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 911/993/996 digest [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 4:12 PM Subject: [MBZ] Fw: Frozen Skunk One of the members of the Ferrari list shared this - thought ya'll might enjoy it - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:04 PM Subject: Fwd: Frozen Skunk BEST ONE OF THE YEAR! -- Bubba Subject: Frozen Skunk A man and his wife were driving home one very cold night when the wife asks her husband to stop the car. There was a baby skunk lying at the side of the road, and she got out to see if it was still alive. It was, and she said to her husband, It's nearly frozen to death. Can we take it with us, get it warm, and let it go in the morning? He says, OK, Get in the car with it. The wife says, Where shall I put it to get it warm? He says, Put it between your legs. It's nice and warm there. But what about the smell? said the wife. Just hold its little nose. The man is expected to recover, but the skunk she used to beat him with died at the scene. Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.8/621 - Release Date: 1/9/2007 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] [OT] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE [dentistry]
Ouch! I think I would rather read about the supposed virtues of M1. On 1/11/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hear thats not the only thing(s) that slide out easier when using M1. But- I recommend sedation for that. I had mine done years ago with that method, awoke doped with lidocane (makes me high as a kite) and a prescription for tylox. Went home, took them and slept for 4 days. went back 2 weeks later so they could remove all the stitching; apparently they had some complications in the removal (looking at the zig-zag scars that run from the inside corners of my lips to the back of my mouth on the inside of each cheek) .. although It does seem that I am a little more prone to biting my cheeks now. I definitely wouldn't call that a DIY job! -j. -- Original message -- From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a numbing agent. However it does tend to make people a bit loopy... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
I think there are many others who will have far better advice, but this worked for me when the rear window of my '75 240D broke. I think some internal part failed, but at that point my only option would have been to sell my first-born to get it fixed at the shop [though she was 17 at the time and at that point I was tempted]. I ended up getting a piece of 1/8 Plexiglas and fitting it to the opening and just disabled the switch. Cheap [which was a necessity], if a bit of a pain to do in the driveway in less than pleasant weather. It lasted until the constant teenager use finally pushed the car over the edge and I traded it cheap. BillR 1981 300SD 283K miles 1975 240DRIP - 4 teens in the house, and it was 'their' car ... 1962 220Sb RIP - 1971 head on collision at about 110 MPH combined speed. I lived, but the car and the [drunk and speeding] other driver didn't. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Harry Watkins Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:29 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
Ha Ha, BTDT with a teen grandson, trashed a great 300D EURO. I want to make a good repair with this window problem, its a great car in great shape with manual transmission but need help with getting that piece off the window. Thanks Bill. Harry On 1/11/07, BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think there are many others who will have far better advice, but this worked for me when the rear window of my '75 240D broke. I think some internal part failed, but at that point my only option would have been to sell my first-born to get it fixed at the shop [though she was 17 at the time and at that point I was tempted]. I ended up getting a piece of 1/8 Plexiglas and fitting it to the opening and just disabled the switch. Cheap [which was a necessity], if a bit of a pain to do in the driveway in less than pleasant weather. It lasted until the constant teenager use finally pushed the car over the edge and I traded it cheap. BillR 1981 300SD 283K miles 1975 240DRIP - 4 teens in the house, and it was 'their' car ... 1962 220Sb RIP - 1971 head on collision at about 110 MPH combined speed. I lived, but the car and the [drunk and speeding] other driver didn't. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Harry Watkins Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:29 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
I think there are two bolts that hold the glass in its lower frame (which would be the top piece of the regulator assembly), if I am remembering correctly. Stick your hand in there and feel for them (there is an access hole in the door frame to get at them, but you might have to drop the glass a bit). You can put in a little wood wedge to hold the glass in place, remove those, and then drop the regulator to wrestle it out, see what the problem is. When I get a chance I'll look up on the CD what the arrangement is, my memory is a bit unclear as I usually do that job on autopilot. Once you feel it out, it is quite apparent what to do with it. --R Harry Watkins wrote: How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
In case you need a Mercedes-Benz Power Window Lift Mechanism, I have one for $20 plus shipping. This is a used power window lift motor and mechanism for a Mercedes-Benz. It is sold as is because I purchased it from a recycler and never used it. Numbers on the mechanism are: Motor: FPE12V 0130, 821016 Mechanism: 116 730 2246 Rechts, 116 730 2146 Links, Brosa I have pictures if you are interested. Located in Houston, TX. ZIP 77043 Tom Potter: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (832) 794-0536, (713) 215-2877, (713) 932-8182 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:41 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D I think there are two bolts that hold the glass in its lower frame (which would be the top piece of the regulator assembly), if I am remembering correctly. Stick your hand in there and feel for them (there is an access hole in the door frame to get at them, but you might have to drop the glass a bit). You can put in a little wood wedge to hold the glass in place, remove those, and then drop the regulator to wrestle it out, see what the problem is. When I get a chance I'll look up on the CD what the arrangement is, my memory is a bit unclear as I usually do that job on autopilot. Once you feel it out, it is quite apparent what to do with it. --R Harry Watkins wrote: How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
Thanks Rich Do you know what holds the window in that piece can be unbolted? Is it wedged in or glued? That is what I need to get out for repair or replacement. Harry On 1/11/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think there are two bolts that hold the glass in its lower frame (which would be the top piece of the regulator assembly), if I am remembering correctly. Stick your hand in there and feel for them (there is an access hole in the door frame to get at them, but you might have to drop the glass a bit). You can put in a little wood wedge to hold the glass in place, remove those, and then drop the regulator to wrestle it out, see what the problem is. When I get a chance I'll look up on the CD what the arrangement is, my memory is a bit unclear as I usually do that job on autopilot. Once you feel it out, it is quite apparent what to do with it. --R Harry Watkins wrote: How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
Tom My lift mechanism seems in good shape, its the window attachment track that's broke. Thanks Harry On 1/11/07, Potter, Tom E [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In case you need a Mercedes-Benz Power Window Lift Mechanism, I have one for $20 plus shipping. This is a used power window lift motor and mechanism for a Mercedes-Benz. It is sold as is because I purchased it from a recycler and never used it. Numbers on the mechanism are: Motor: FPE12V 0130, 821016 Mechanism: 116 730 2246 Rechts, 116 730 2146 Links, Brosa I have pictures if you are interested. Located in Houston, TX. ZIP 77043 Tom Potter: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (832) 794-0536, (713) 215-2877, (713) 932-8182 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:41 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D I think there are two bolts that hold the glass in its lower frame (which would be the top piece of the regulator assembly), if I am remembering correctly. Stick your hand in there and feel for them (there is an access hole in the door frame to get at them, but you might have to drop the glass a bit). You can put in a little wood wedge to hold the glass in place, remove those, and then drop the regulator to wrestle it out, see what the problem is. When I get a chance I'll look up on the CD what the arrangement is, my memory is a bit unclear as I usually do that job on autopilot. Once you feel it out, it is quite apparent what to do with it. --R Harry Watkins wrote: How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D
I don't have that part, but you could probably find it at a recycler. I replaced a driver's window in my '81 300D several years ago. If I remember correctly, the glass just fit TIGHTLY into a rubber insert in the track. This was 6-7 years ago, so my memory is a bit foggy. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Harry Watkins Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:01 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D Tom My lift mechanism seems in good shape, its the window attachment track that's broke. Thanks Harry On 1/11/07, Potter, Tom E [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In case you need a Mercedes-Benz Power Window Lift Mechanism, I have one for $20 plus shipping. This is a used power window lift motor and mechanism for a Mercedes-Benz. It is sold as is because I purchased it from a recycler and never used it. Numbers on the mechanism are: Motor: FPE12V 0130, 821016 Mechanism: 116 730 2246 Rechts, 116 730 2146 Links, Brosa I have pictures if you are interested. Located in Houston, TX. ZIP 77043 Tom Potter: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (832) 794-0536, (713) 215-2877, (713) 932-8182 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:41 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivers door window problem, 81 240D I think there are two bolts that hold the glass in its lower frame (which would be the top piece of the regulator assembly), if I am remembering correctly. Stick your hand in there and feel for them (there is an access hole in the door frame to get at them, but you might have to drop the glass a bit). You can put in a little wood wedge to hold the glass in place, remove those, and then drop the regulator to wrestle it out, see what the problem is. When I get a chance I'll look up on the CD what the arrangement is, my memory is a bit unclear as I usually do that job on autopilot. Once you feel it out, it is quite apparent what to do with it. --R Harry Watkins wrote: How is the horizontal metal piece attached to the glass? Perhaps if it can be removed with the glass still in the door, a repair/replacement would be simple. There is very little rust inside the door and it appears that the front mounting tab of the horizontal piece has broken. With it out, a weld job may do the trick. I have only removed the door panel, worked the window back up and disabled the switch. The car is still being used while I await the free expert advice from this list. Thanks Harry On 1/10/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just need to take off the door panel (lift STRAIGHT UP so you don't break the map pocket tabs), take out the regulator (which is the frame that makes the whole thing go up and down) and check it out. There are only a few (3?) bolts on the whole thing, the glass is attached by 2 (one of which is probably broken or fallen out and is in the bottom of the door), put a little wood wedge between the glass and the window frame to hold it up while you remove the regulator). It is quite apparent how to do this if you look at it for a minute. The second time you do all this it will take less than an hour to take it out, fool with it, and put it back. Clean/grease everything while you are in there. It is a bit fiddly to take out, but comes out/goes in easily. Can't tell from your note if you already have it apart, but that is what you need to do. --R Harry Watkins wrote: A bad place to have a window problem is after you've paid $6 for a car wash, the green light says, come one in and the window goes up in the rear half only. It appears there may be a broken attaching point near the front of the glass. I was able to pry it back level and there is a bolt nearby what I think is broken. Can anyone give me a hint? The part I am looking at seems to be what the bottom of the glass is sitting in, or is attached to. I've got it back up and closed while You guys set me straight. Harry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL
Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code
check your plug wires Harry 69 280 SEL 135,000 Miles 72 350SL 118,000 Miles 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion 1999 Mazda Miata -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code Bad plug, plug wire, vacuum leak, or injector/harness. Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:38 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code I have a 2001.5 Passat and I am getting a code of P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) any suggestions on what could be the cause. Thanks Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code
no cap or rotors on these cars, they have coil packs. Harry 69 280 SEL 135,000 Miles 72 350SL 118,000 Miles 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion 1999 Mazda Miata -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code Sure. Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if this is a vergasser). Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:38 AM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code I have a 2001.5 Passat and I am getting a code of P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) any suggestions on what could be the cause. Thanks Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code
most of the 98 through 2000 models had problems with the coil packs on the 1.8T engines. They fixed this on the 2001 1/2 and later cars. Harry 69 280 SEL 135,000 Miles 72 350SL 118,000 Miles 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion 1999 Mazda Miata -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 12:51 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code Might be the coil pack, which I believe was problematic for those models. On 1/10/07, Potter, Tom E [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sure. Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if this is a vergasser). Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....
Did the preview and was overwhelmed. There is just way too much stuff that somebody needs. The engines were looking really good. Used a bit, but clean enough. A few old DOD genset. I suspect with the weather we have today, most of the metal bits will go for scrap prices. On Jan 8, 2007, at 8:24 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote: On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 11:38:16 -0800 Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There are a number of Lister motors available at this upcoming auction. That and a few 200-300amp gen sets. You can even bid live online. For those trapped at a desk. I am going to preview the site Tuesday. A two day affair to get all the toys sold. Bound to be truck loads of tools and supplies going for pennies Thursday. Whole rooms and shelf units loaded. This sounds interesting: 531 1 each KATO 30KW, 208-240/416- 480V, 3PH-120/240V, 1PH DETROIT DIESEL DRIVE No affiliation, just sporting big wood for this auction. Not sure what you mean by this phrase ... Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
[MBZ] Rubber bumper insert 240D
What is the correct way to insert the rubber bumper pad into the bumper on a 1983 240 D. Thanks, Mike in Michigan
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels?
I tried to get an appointment to see a Jeep Liberty diesel. The dealer laughed and laughed, there was no way he could get one. Turns out Jeep was putting out like 4000 of them a year... Honda has a brilliant diesel marketing campaign in the UK based largely on an American radio personality... Wierd. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 17:37:00 -0800 From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be) Ford Diesels? To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hans Neureiter wrote: Funny how that thread veered off from Diesels in NA to Mazda. The article exclaims that cars with diesels don't sell in the USA. They are not available, that's why. VW TDIs tend not to stay on the lot long, but I suspect VW is carefully limiting supply to make sure that stays true. Americans just aren't as keen on diesels as Europeans, present company excepted. Part of this is because diesel is taxed less than gasoline in Europe, whereas is the opposite here, which makes the financial incentives to buy diesels a lot lower. It will also take a while for the new, cleaner diesels to win people over. A lot of people still think of diesel cars as smelly, sooty, noisy, underpowered vehicles that won't start in cold weather. Diesels are well accepted in the truck market but seeing Ford Powerstrokes clattering and belching soot doesn't help people accept the same technology in cars. ;) Besides the gee whiz factor, I think a big reason hybrids have caught the public's attention is they're seen as delivering diesel fuel economy, but with clean gasoline instead of stinky, sooty diesel. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 11 20:28:42 2007 Received: from web32811.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.41]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1H56XS-0008BE-4u for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:28:42 + Received: (qmail 49402 invoked by uid 60001); 11 Jan 2007 20:25:17 - Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-YMail-OSG: oKMlrs4VM1kZ9GMXkt56eGqKN0Fq27oNS4qOX.ZtUQuD8mztdyq.q4qT0C87U0zVdsmpQs2WcvxLOaWlrBItHUYdqvU6Fd01LwdBtxjLrDa6zPvTe0tub2UoVWQyHHgLBstZs0iovT01GW8- Received: from [63.209.225.22] by web32811.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:25:17 PST Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:25:17 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:28:42 - I had mine pulled about 10 years ago also, right after school let out. The following day I was out pounding the pavement looking for a job. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 21:52:54 -0500 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed i had all four taken out more than 10 years ago - was back at school in 2 days. You'll be ok. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 11 20:31:41 2007 Received: from web32802.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.32]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1H56aL-0008L6-5r for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:31:41 + Received: (qmail 45528 invoked by uid 60001); 11 Jan 2007 20:28:15 - X-YMail-OSG: CnHMCMEVM1nOXLtQvIXQBVdInYvRl7dFD6gDGFFWu.UBwCUHWNUJOz3.3skeV_DvaaMbAdm4lOzPkkOxz_F78TXMpN5cEhpnkskqzlUjJBIerPKyDVwINRqsKgTMeBMtTIaHRdDux2bCpWU- Received: from [63.209.225.22] by web32802.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:28:15 PST Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:28:15 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding:
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
LOL, beat me to it! -Curt Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 05:43:48 -0500 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii kevin kraly wrote: We had the SD out today, I'm so happy with this great car! So when are you selling it? Mitch. - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 11 20:47:15 2007 Received: from web32808.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.38]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1H56pP-SA-4B for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:47:15 + Received: (qmail 38136 invoked by uid 60001); 11 Jan 2007 20:43:50 - X-YMail-OSG: y_uxBs8VM1k7F_Jj3e1wv9vl2agEHH9aMJPT2q5YDsedT5J5H.qkLeC.H.yzf8GRDUcFbpJBdzv0YD1BxUCyW78ekHbX_1WTzknCjb.Tc7J9vcRYX9lb85URj2J48Jejf3sHhvAEJZReBms- Received: from [63.209.225.22] by web32808.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:43:49 PST Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:43:49 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:47:15 - Regular snows on my 240D cost a couple mpg consistantly. -Curt Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 08:22:31 -0500 From: Tony Wirtel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Just resurrected an '85 300sd that has studded snows on the back. Anyone have a ballpark figure for how much MPG running studded tires costs? I have no idea- am only running the car for a few weeks to get to know it before I sell it. Tony Wirtel 300sd, 300e - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 11 20:54:22 2007 Received: from server326.com ([216.35.197.26]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtps (TLSv1:AES256-SHA:256) (Exim 4.52) id 1H56wI-h8-6h for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:54:22 + Received: (qmail 8686 invoked by uid 504); 11 Jan 2007 20:50:55 - Received: from unknown (HELO ?10.5.0.120?) (68.157.168.83) by ns1.server326.com with SMTP; 11 Jan 2007 20:50:55 - Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v624) In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From: Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 15:50:55 -0500 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.624) X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] The Motor Stadt in Stuttgart, Germany X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:54:22 - Rich et al, That car (#18) is a w196. Here is a link to a picture taken of these cars head on this past October while visiting in Germany. Http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/MBM/DSCN1267.JPG. It is about 0.8 Mb, in the event you are on modem. Onto the rest of the lineup from memory: #722 to the left is a 300slr (Mille Miglia car driven by Moss w/ Jenkinson navigating) followed by a w165, iirc. The car behind #36 (some sort of record car) is a w125 and that is followed by a Targa Florio winner from the 1920s (?). The car directly
Re: [MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage
Regular snows on my 240D cost a couple mpg consistantly. -Curt Thanks- the energy to create all that noise has to come from somewhere! Tony Wirtel
Re: [MBZ] The Motor Stadt in Stuttgart, Germany]
Rich, If the attachment goes through, here is the same car shot from another angle. That (#18) is a w196. # 722 to the left is a 300slr (Mille Miglia car driven by Moss w/ Jenkinson navigating) followed by a w165, iirc. The car behind #36 (some sort of record car) is a w125 and that is followed by a Targa Florio winner from the 1920s (?). The car directly behind #8 is a w196 monoposto GP car, following it is a w154 (if memory serves correctly), and that is followed by a w25. Photo taken this past October while visiting the museum during a quick trip to Germany. If time allows, make the time to visit the greenhouse where it began for Herr Daimler as well. It was like making a pilgrimage. If the attachment does not work you can see the picture here: http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/MBM/DSCN1267.JPG. It is about 0.8 Mb, in the event you are on modem. Mathieu attachment: DSCN1267.JPG inline: DSCN1267.JPG On Jan 9, 2007, at 1:51 PM, Rich Thomas wrote: Good article about all the motor museums and displays in the area. You can stop in on them when you go pick up your new SLR to drive around the Continent on spring holiday. What is that Benz racer in the front in the picture? That thing is beautiful. --R http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/01/07/travel/07journeys.html? ref=automobiles I had the photo here but it bounced ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
It sounds like the leak is coming from just behind the engine compartment. does this flex pipe run from the engine compartment rearward under the passenger's side floor board? I'm hoping it's an easy fix since I HATE exhaust leaks. They make this good looking car sound like a heap. , not to mention the unpleasantness of breathing exhaust fumes in the cabin! Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
Think: Italy. Your problem may go away on its own. I've noticed some improvement since I bought the car. It's been driven almost daily, so I think the Italian Tune-ups are doing their job. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD update and ACC system
So when are you selling it? Exhaust leak, trunk leak, currently non-working AC, a slightly warped rotor or two, what a pile of JUNK! Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! This one is a keeper. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Why are the FEDS boycotting diesel cars? (used to be)Ford Diesels?
Duramax is an Izuzu engine, is it not? Yep, it's an Isuzu engine, at least partly. I'm not sure how much GM helped with the design. Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
I would love a 300SDL or a 350SDL W126 with crate motor, For a Truck I would just go with a Dodge and the Cummings. For a mini-van I would like a Honda Odyssey with a TDI or CDI. But at last, our next car will be a Honda Odyssey with a gas engine, the powers that be have already dictated it. We will end up getting one before the end of the year. Actually I bet it will be just after I place next order with Rusty and wife flips out that I need to replace timing chain, rebuild suspension pump, and fix oil leaks on her car. Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 3:31 PM To: Diesel List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? That was sort of what I was baseing the 25mpg number on. That and the guy with the F150 4BT that claimed 28mpg. I still have a pipe dream (future plan sounds better though eh?) of putting a 4BT into an International Scout. Tough cool truck with a reasonably powerful diesel engine. The Scout with the Nissan 101hp diesel supposedly could pull 30mpg... No extra power there though. -Curt Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 20:26:08 -0800 From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels? To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Assuming it can do something like 25mpg I'd consider an F150 with a diesel engine... My 3/4 ton Dodge diesel will turn in 25-26 mpg, at 60 MPH on the freeway. 20-21 for more normal freeway speeds. -- Jim - Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Studded tires and 300sd fuel mileage
Tony Wirtel wrote: Just resurrected an '85 300sd that has studded snows on the back. Anyone have a ballpark figure for how much MPG running studded tires costs? I have no idea- am only running the car for a few weeks to get to know it before I sell it. Tony Wirtel 300sd, 300e Four studded snows and winter fuel used to cut about 15% off of my spring/fall fuel mileage. Can't separate the tires from the winter fuel though. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Rubber bumper insert 240D
Speaking of bumpers, how are the plastic pieces behind the rubber strip on an 85 123.133 (300Dt) held together in the center? -j.
