date:20090202

Re: [MBZ] New 300SD

2009-02-02 Thread Luther


www.odometergears.com

Luther, twice a satisfied customer

Rich Thomas wrote:
Went and bought the 84 300SD this afternoon.  Ivory with Palomino 
leather, quite good condition with a few not too critical issues 
(except the heat didn't come on -- monovalve? which had been replaced 
at some point in the past), about 300k miles.  Guy had it for 10 yr, 
bought it from a guy who had it for 1 yr and did not like a diesel, 
original owner had it for 14 yr.  PO put in a new windshield on Friday 
as it caught a rock and cracked last week -- inshooance paid that.  
Car was new in Dunwoody GA in Feb 84 (almost exactly 25 yr ago!).  PO 
gave me 2 envelopes with papers, EVERY repair/purchase/anything 
car-related paper was in there along with original sticker and 
purchase receipts.  The original owner gave it to his daughter at some 
point but took care of maintenance, and summarized every event/cost on 
a set of index cards.  (how anal is that?)  Dealer mostly and some 
indy service for the first 14 yr, new tranny at 138k because it was 
shifting hard.  PO had all the vac elements for the AC replaced a 
year or so ago, was converted to 134 at some point with all new 
compressor and other stuff, I guess done correctly maybe, we'll see.  
I have not added up all the costs but it probably is close to half or 
more of original cost (they beat the dealer down $1600 for a nice 
round price, tax, title $40,000 out the door in 1984).  The 2nd owner 
put a $800 radio in it in 1998, then 6 months later another $900 
Alpine CD unit which is still in the car, with a kicker and amp in the 
trunk.  I am still trying to figure that.


Anyway, it is a pretty nice car, runs very well, mama is happy.  Gotta 
sort 2 windows (one regulator, other probably a switch), a seat back 
(switch?), the heat (monovalve?), the odometer gear broke when he 
pushed the trip odo, and probably some new shocks at some point as it 
seems a little floaty.  I noticed too the steering wheel is a bit off 
center, and a few degrees of dead zone (steering box adjustment?),  I 
guess an alignment is in order.  And to check out the leak/rust under 
the rear shelf.


Now to learn more about the 126.

--R

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--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] OT, equalizer V bass/treble

2009-02-02 Thread Jeff Zedic

An equalizer can be helpful but most audiophiles do not use them. If
your system is set up properly there really should be no need for one.

If you have a boomy room or flat room then it can help.

I'm into stupidly expensive gear and do not use them. With my live
sound gear I used one because the rooms were always different but I
used a real time auto EQ so it was no problem.

Listening to mp3s, the EQ can make a big difference because of rubbish
sound from mp3s.

If your ear doesn't hear any difference then you don't need to worry.

The last thing an audiophile wants is another connection and circuit
in the sound chain.

Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] OT, equalizer V bass/treble

2009-02-02 Thread Fmiser

Kaleb wrote:

OK, I assume that a equalizer is better than just bass and
treble adjustments.

This could be as bad as an oil thread

Anyway, it's better only in that there are more. With bass and
treble, the entire range of frequencies are typically divided
into thirds. The bass knob controls the volume of the bass
frequencies. The treble knob controls the volume of the high
frequencies. The middle has no direct control. Meaning if you
want more mid, turn down the bass and treble and turn up the
Volume. *smile*

Any tips, pointers, thoughts etc.

The most common equalizer is called a graphic. It has a knob
or slider for each of the slices the sound has been sliced
into. So now you have not just bass and treble - but
super-bass, low-bass, bass, upper-bass, lower-mid, mid,
upper-mid, lower-treble, treble, upper-treble, super-treble.
That would be called an 11-band EQ. I've seen anything from
2-band to 62-band.

A more powerful, but less intuitive EQ is called
parametric. This is usually not sliders, only knobs. Each
band, instead of being stuck on only one frequency like a
graphic, has adjustable frequency, adjustable width, and
adjustable amount. There aren't very many equalizer hardware
boxes that are parametric - but in software it's not uncommon,
especially in the pro market.

Attached is a graphic that shows the various frequencies,
where some musical instruments fit in, what frequency range
common radio and telephone use, and where speech sounds fit.

There is no right or wrong setting anymore than for the
seat in a car. Set it so it's comfortable for you.

Small speakers usually are lacking in bass, but because there
are physics limitations, just turning up the bass doesn't
always help.

High frequency is much more easily absorbed. So if you have
your speakers behind the curtains, not a lot of high frequency
sound will get out. Conversely, bass can readily pass through
walls.

Human ears are quite sensitive to the midrange, like 500 Hz to
2 kHz.

--Philip, with pro audio experience
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