[MBZ] BioD 'craze'

2009-02-28 Thread Archer
Here's an 18 year old local kid whose making a tour in an MB greasecar. 
Sounds like he could use some of the valuable knowledge found here or even 
help along the way.

http://www.tampabay.com/news/business/autos/article979107.ece
Anyone interested might be able to contact him at:
www.colinsgreenmachine.com or through the writer at St. Petersburg Times 
www.sptimes.com

Gerry



Zoltan Finks wrote:

Not to hijack the thread, but since I havent been checking the list
lately,
I wonder if anyone has become aware of the film that is supposed to
come out
soon called Fuel. Its about environmental issues and it features a
guy who
apparently has been driving around in a veggie diesel bus since like
the 90s
or something.
Brian



On Tue, Feb 24, 2009 at 9:45 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:

several things i find interesting about this; first is the fact that
it's
coming to light now that some of the BioD producers there are
actually doing
exceedingly well, in spite of the complaints that imported US BioD is
causing the failure of the EU BioD industry.
  of more interest to those on this list as well, i have to wonder
why EU
auto manufacturers keep telling us we can't use Amerikun BioD in
their cars
because our fuel doesn't meet their standards for BioD, yet it's
claimed now
that almost 20% of the fuel used in the EU is imported Amerikun
fuel,...
does that reek of WTF? to anyone else?
cheers!
e



Redghost wrote:

And with europe now trying to impose a tariff on US made bioD, there
should be more for us.  Seems we would import B100, add 1% diesel
or some
such and then ship that to europe.  Get the $1/gal tax rebate and
make money
on the deal.   Should be coming down in price though, since EU
wants to
impose a $1/gal tariff on our stuff
clay



On Feb 24, 2009, at 8:43 AM, ernest breakfield wrote:

 not hardly; yet more BioD stations are springing up here all the
time,

 and the best early ones are getting bigger. while it may not

qualify as
mainstream, it's certainly not radical anymore.
 i think that we don't hear as much about it in the press now because
it's no longer 'new' and therefore not sensational enough to be
interesting
anymore. (heck, even i've been doing it for ~5 years already, and
i wasn't a
particularly early adopter here!)
cheers!
e

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Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123?

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:


Doesn't make much sense to me this side of the world since the Nissan
diesels and parts for them are rare as hens' teeth up here compared to
OM617s and their parts.  Is the situation reversed in NZ?


In Nippon, consumption of new cars is encouraged by taxing the heck out of old 
cars, so that perfectly serviceable low mile specimens are scrapped or exported.


In the Penal Colonies, car prices are kept high by taxes, and there is strong 
demand for affordable RHD automobiles.


Result: There are a lot of used Japanese cars running around Aussieland.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Craig McCluskey wrote:


With the change to digital TV a few days ago, will it still work?


The ones with digital tuners, yes. It's been a few years since they made them 
with analog only tuners.

The analog model I bought in 2002 requires a converter box.

When I bought my converter last weekend, it was interesting to see that a 
Magnavox converter was $50 (no mechanical parts, not even a power button),
when the Magnavox progressive scan DVD player sitting next to it on the shelf 
was $30. I figure the converter is selling for 3-4x what it should, due to $40 
per unit of government price support.


 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1986 Mercedes Diesel $600 (jim C?)

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:


So just glue them like the heap's are.  Cyanoacrylate glue doesn't
hold up for this.  I've been using 5-minute (clear) epoxy.  It yellows,
but holds up for at least several years.


I'd pay the extra for UV resistant epoxy. I'm pretty sure that both West Systems 
(here in Michigan) and System Three (closer to your neighborhood) make it.

A pint should last you a long time.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Wilton Strickland wrote:

1 Jun, people still won't be ready.


One of my local stations did the switchover a week and a half ago.
Another station disappeared sometime between Thanksgiving and Christmas, and I 
was surprised to find out it still existed when I set up my parents' digital 
converters over the holidays. Seemed odd that they turned off their analog 
signal 2-3 months early.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1986 Mercedes Diesel $600 (jim C?)

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Kevin Kraly wrote:
I forgot all about you, Alex!  I'm with you on the clogged fuel filter 
and/or tank strainer and usual vacuum related tranny quirks.  Even with 
all mechanical problems aside, it's worth $600 if it's in nice shape.  
Just buy it!


If the head isn't cracked, the OM603 is worth more than $600.

Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:

We're down to pretty much two channels: one that didn't
switch yet, and the other one, which is the only DTV
signal we can receive here.  And it's pretty sucky, I
find it very hard to watch with all the pixelation and
sound dropouts.


How big is your antenna/rotor?

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna for under $200.
If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you wouldn't even 
need the rotor.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] 300TD KEY JAM STEAL THIS CAR!

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
This is why there is very little break the lock 20 second theft of  
Benzes -- it's not possible to snap the tumbler or use a pair of  
pliers to break the column lock, like you can with GM or Ford.


You can't yank the door lock cylinder with a dent puller, either --  
all that happens is the little trim piece with the spring loaded door  
will pop out, you can't get a dent puller into the tumbler.


Peter

On Feb 27, 2009, at 6:13 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Wilton's method, is the cheapest, and fastest. I took out a 123  
lock using the grind off the pin method, and it is a royal PITA..   
After I got the steering lock/lock assy. out, i clamped it in the  
vise and ground the protective collar into 2 pieces.  Then I could  
pull out the lock.


I had tried to drill it, and it dulled all the expensive, exotic  
bits.  After I got the lock out of the steering lock, i took it  
apart and carried the front piece to a guy who sells drill bits  
that will go through anything and had him try his drill on it.   
Blunted his bit too.  He asked me what it was, and I said  
Kryptonite.  He pulled out a carbide drill, and it would drill it,  
but the guy didn't want to drill through it.


So, unless you have a carbide drill (Not masonry carbide) forget  
about drilling it.


At 05:55 PM 2/27/2009, you wrote:

The correct way to remove it is to take the lower dash panel off and
the protector around the assembly.  Grind the hardened pin (steering
lock release when the key can beturned) off so that you can pull the
ignition assembly off the steering column.

From this point you can get the tumbler out from the lock assembly,
I believe, without turning it (the release is covered when  
installed).


You will need a new tumbler and a new latching assembly, which was
$100 or so a few years back.

Never use brass keys and never lubricate the lock with grahpite --
both cause it to seize.

Peter

On Feb 27, 2009, at 1:35 PM, Wilton Strickland wrote:


'Tried to call ya; 'sent me to mail box.

'No way to force it short of a BIG bomb that would likely blow a
hole bigger
than you want in the neighborhood.  Key MUST be in position 1 to
slip an
unlatching pin (white coathanger wedge-shaped on the end works
great) in the
small hole to unlock the security unlatch, which will then allow
you to
unscrew the security ring.  If you can turn the key to position 1
and insert
an unlatching pin, the tumbler exchange takes about 30 seconds;
otherwise
much trouble - grinding, etc.  'No way to force it.

In Oct 07, I had same problem with my 124 - could not turn key to
position
1.  After many tries with different key, including new key, I
attached a key
to the vibrating plate of a vibrating sander, inserted the key,
turned the
sander on, and in about 5 seconds, turned the key to position 1.
After the
key was in position 1, it took me about 30 seconds to remove the
old tumbler
and insert a new one - 'saved 'bout $700 labor cost of grinding/  
cutting out

old one.  Try the vibrating key method before resorting to
grinding, etc.
Mine worked beautifully.

My # 919-734-2830

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300TD KEY JAM STEAL THIS CAR!




Folks,

We have a friend and customer with a jammed ignition lock  
cylinder on

a 1983 300TD

We've tried a couple of different keys. We are going to try tap and
turn.

The big ring is in place around the cylinder. Does the key have  
to be

in position 1 to push in the little pin and remove that? Any way to
force it.

Can we simply drill the lock?

Can we remove the entire lock assembly from the steering column?

Just what is the quickest and least destructive option to remove  
the

lock cylinder? Since he's in a hurry, please email ideas to me
directly at macj...@aol.com and the list. My cell is 706  
540-3285 if

anyone has any good voice encouragement.

Thanks for your help!!




thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com




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Re: [MBZ] OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Wilton Strickland
'My thoughts, too.  'Seems they jack the price of 'em way the hell up and
get TWO prices for 'em - the $40 from Uncle plus another $40 - $50 from
consumer.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 6:33 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Pinnacle TV adapter


 Craig McCluskey wrote:

  With the change to digital TV a few days ago, will it still work?

 The ones with digital tuners, yes. It's been a few years since they made
them
 with analog only tuners.
 The analog model I bought in 2002 requires a converter box.

 When I bought my converter last weekend, it was interesting to see that a
 Magnavox converter was $50 (no mechanical parts, not even a power button),
 when the Magnavox progressive scan DVD player sitting next to it on the
shelf
 was $30. I figure the converter is selling for 3-4x what it should, due to
$40
 per unit of government price support.

   Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick

Yeah...

Remove caliper.  Pry out the fried dust sheild.  Note location of  
shield and the raised portion of the piston lip.  Clean the caliper  
completely with a brass brush and brake parts cleaner -- don't get  
any crap into the brake line fitting.  You must have the pad slots  
completely clean anyway.


Since these are in decent, if leaking shape, you can then pry off the  
torn and leaking dust boot and use a pair of screwdrivers to pry up  
on the piston and remove it (there are two, one on each side -- do  
one at a time).


Be carefull to pry straight out.  You can also use LOW air pressure  
by clamping one piston at a time with a C-clamp to pop the other one  
out.  10 psi, Max,--


When the piston it out, clean it up with a shop rag and some brake  
parts cleaner.  NO ABRASIVES.  Should clean up well.  If corroded,  
scratched, or gouged, replace the caliper.  Pits above the seal with  
the piston all the way in can be ignored, though.


Inside the bore of the caliper is a square seal in a slot.  Use a  
bent pick to remove this -- likely rather hard by now -- and DO NOT  
GOUGE THE BORE.  A scratch will require a new caliper


Clean with brake parts cleaner, and if there is rust and corrosion  
built up above the seal slot, you can remove it with ScotchBrite IF  
you do not touch the rest of the bore.  NO ABRASIVES IN THE BORE --  
the caliper will stick.  I like to use a hard scraper instead.  There  
must be clearance for the piston -- must fall right down to the seal,  
no drag.


Flush VERY well if you had to use scotchbrite on the outer lip -- any  
grit between the bore and piston will cause it to stick.  I prefer to  
scrape with a hard scraper, but you still have to clean like a nut.


Install the new seal after coating it with brake fluid.  Don't use  
anything sharp to push it in place, or you will have to get a new one  
when you slice it.  Wipe some brake fluid onto the piston and place  
it in correct orientation (which is why it's nice to do one at a  
time) and press it down with a thin piece of wood put through the  
caliper.  You may need to rock it back and forth a tiny bit to get it  
over the seal initially, but it will drop down with minimal pressure  
once the seal is on the chrome part of the piston.


Install the new dust boot -- this is the worst part as you wont' have  
the fancy tool to press it down over the outer edge.  A thin wood  
strip works well for me, but it's still a pain.


Place the new heat shield into the piston and carefully press into  
place.  Be sure you have it aligned correctly before you push the  
center down, as it's impossible to get them back out without bending  
them all to bits.


Repeat for the other side.

Install calipers and new pads.  Put a smear of anti-seize on the back  
of the pad where the piston touches, and along the sides of the  
backing plate on both sides (NOT on the friction material).  This  
prevents squeal and keeps the corrosion down on the pad slots so the  
pads don't stick.


And, ALWAYS, replace the rotors if there is a distinct lip at the  
outer edge.  There is very little margin for excessive wear on those  
rotors, and if they are showing a distinct lip, the backing plate on  
the pads will hit the anti-rattle spring before the friction material  
is worn off.  When this happens, the pistons will become cocked in  
the bore and stick, causing the brakes to drag.  The resultant heat  
will fry the dust boot, allowing dirt and water into the bore, and  
wreck the caliper.


Peter

On Feb 27, 2009, at 9:15 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Anybody got a step by step on caliper repair?
Hammie the '83 240D went to my Indy's last week for the brake pedal  
going to the floor. Turns out the rear calipers which I didn't  
replace last summer were leaking bad. One of the front calipers I  
did replace last summer is leaking a little...

I had him replace the rears, I figure I'll deal with the front myself.

Originally I'd planned to rebuild the old fronts anyway so I  
figured this was a good way to start, then take the ones I'd bought  
and shove 'em up the kid's nose at Advance Auto. Then it occured to  
me I'd probably be better to throw a rebuild kit into the leaker  
myself. I'll probably even learn something before I'm done.


-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Noisy Shifter

2009-02-28 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:59:16 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Craig wrote:
  
  Have you tried replacing the bushings that hold each end of
  the rod between the shifter and transmission?
 
 I have that problem, but on a W123. Bushings from both ends of
 the rod are missing. But that's lower on the list than the front
 end stuff.

I can understand that. It is, however, much simpler and much less
expensive. IIRC, I coated the new bushings with Vaseline to be able
to get them in easier.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Digital signal strength is very low currently due to FCC rules.  I  
think the are supposed to be stronger after the switch, but I'm  
hoping the rules are changed.  Otherwise I'll be able to see only one  
channel of any value (my local PBS station) instead of the three we  
get currently.


In case you've not been paying much attention, many of the stations  
will also be changing their broadcast frequency as well, most moving  
to UHF from VHF.  I seem to remember than Chanels 7-9 will go away  
completely, as those frequencies are going to be used for something  
else.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 5:45 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Jim Cathey wrote:

We're down to pretty much two channels: one that didn't
switch yet, and the other one, which is the only DTV
signal we can receive here.  And it's pretty sucky, I
find it very hard to watch with all the pixelation and
sound dropouts.


How big is your antenna/rotor?

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna for  
under $200.
If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you  
wouldn't even need the rotor.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Mitch Haley

Peter Frederick wrote:
Digital signal strength is very low currently due to FCC rules.  I think 
the are supposed to be stronger after the switch, but I'm hoping the 
rules are changed.  Otherwise I'll be able to see only one channel of 
any value (my local PBS station) instead of the three we get currently.


I had to rescan my parents' converter boxes last week when Channel 10 went 
all-digital, because digital channels 10-1 and 10-2 had moved.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
OK, here we go again.  You all remember the 190D I bought with a bad 
tranny, put a used tranny I had it in, would not shift past 2nd.  Yanked 
it out, put another tranny in.  It too would not shift past 2nd.  I 
played with it for a bit, shifting it back and forth from forward to 
reverse etc then all the sudden it started shifting just fine.  So, I 
have been driving that car for the last 2 months without a bit of 
problems.  Yesterday on the way to work, I get off the highway, stop at 
the light at the end of the ramp, then go, guess what, wont upshift!! 
WTF?  I drove the last 3 miles to work in 2nd then after work I messed 
with it a bit.  The fluid level is fine, not burned or anything like 
that.  The cable seems to pull out and go back in just fine. I dont 
really think its the kickdown stuck.  I drove it around the parking lot 
and I was thinking it was in first, but if I put it down into low you 
can then feel it shift down to first.  SO apparantly its starting out in 
2nd, and not downshift to 1st upon takeoff like it normally would.  If 
you do kick it down to 1st, it will not upshift to 2nd. Otherwise, if it 
starts in 2nd, it stays in 2nd.  What the heck could the problem be?  Im 
going to change the fluid and filter again thinking maybe its plugged up 
or something.  What all else would prevent an upshift?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey

How big is your antenna/rotor?


Not very.  Same old rabbit ears/piece of wire on the floor/
strange circular ring on top of the house.

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna for 
under $200.


More money to soak out of the consumer for the 'upgrade'!

If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you 
wouldn't even need the rotor.


Nope, they're in two different directions.  One antenna we
can see (and that's the one we're getting signal from), the
others are all behind a rather large hill.

I ran two pieces of RG6 up to the chimney during the new construction.
The plan is for two antennae and to mix them down in the equipment
room and then route the result (whether on coax or Ethernet) to
wherever the TV is going to end up.  Someday.

SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey
Be carefull to pry straight out.  You can also use LOW air pressure by 
clamping one piston at a time with a C-clamp to pop the other one out. 
 10 psi, Max,--


The best method I've found to get these out is to pump them
out using a clean grease gun and water.  (Assuming they're
not ready to just pull right out with gentle pressure.)
The caliper threads right on the end of the grease gun,
and you're going to want to clean out the caliper guts
anyway.  The pumping is high pressure but low volume,
so the extraction is very controlled.  And no air-pressure
spring to slam the puck into you or the caliper,
breaking something like fingers or itself.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey

OK, here we go again...What all else would prevent an upshift?


I'm starting to feel better about all the work I spent
on converting ours to a stickshift!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If I end up having to pull this thing back out, Im converting it to a 5 
speed, I got everything I need in another car to do it.


Jim Cathey wrote:

OK, here we go again...What all else would prevent an upshift?


I'm starting to feel better about all the work I spent
on converting ours to a stickshift!

-- Jim



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Need Transmission

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Hertzing
Hello All - Great service here.  I need a transmission for a 1995 Mercedes
E320.  Anybody got one for sale that works?

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123?

2009-02-28 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Well, that will have a negative impact on my decision to visit Australia.  
Japanese car induced nausea is not something I'm willing to tolerate on a 
vacation.

--- On Sat, 2/28/09, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123?
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 6:26 AM

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Result: There are a lot of used Japanese cars running around Aussieland.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
How about some detail on caliper rebuild part.  I tried this once and could 
only get one piston out.  You have to block up bore on removed piston side and 
have a blast of air from a compressor which I didn't have at the time to pop 
the other piston out.  I gave up and just bought a new one.

--- On Fri, 2/27/09, Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com wrote:

From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Friday, February 27, 2009, 10:25 PM

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 19:15:32 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Anybody got a step by step on caliper repair?

Sure:

 1. Loosen lug bolts a little.
 2. Jack car up and put on jack stands.
 3. Remove wheels.
 4. Remove calipers.
 5. Rebuild calipers.
 6. Put calipers back on.
 7. Bleed brakes.
 8. Put wheels back on.
 9. Lower car partially and complete tightening of lug bolts.
10. Lower car completely.


:-)




 Then it occured to me I'd probably be better to throw a rebuild kit
into
 the leaker myself. I'll probably even learn something before I'm
done.

Yup.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Loren Faeth
I think you are on the right track.  I had a similar experience with 
a 124.  I changed the filter and fluid and all was well.  Sun Valley 
said to always use Mann filter in the 124.  I had an elring from 
Rusty.  Since then I have been buying the Manns from Rusty, but you 
have to also order the gasket.  The elrings come with a gasket.  BTW, 
I have several elrings, if anyone wants to buy them.


At 09:30 AM 2/28/2009, you wrote:
OK, here we go again.  You all remember the 190D I bought with a bad 
tranny, put a used tranny I had it in, would not shift past 
2nd.  Yanked it out, put another tranny in.  It too would not shift 
past 2nd.  I played with it for a bit, shifting it back and forth 
from forward to reverse etc then all the sudden it started shifting 
just fine.  So, I have been driving that car for the last 2 months 
without a bit of problems.  Yesterday on the way to work, I get off 
the highway, stop at the light at the end of the ramp, then go, 
guess what, wont upshift!! WTF?  I drove the last 3 miles to work in 
2nd then after work I messed with it a bit.  The fluid level is 
fine, not burned or anything like that.  The cable seems to pull out 
and go back in just fine. I dont really think its the kickdown 
stuck.  I drove it around the parking lot and I was thinking it was 
in first, but if I put it down into low you can then feel it shift 
down to first.  SO apparantly its starting out in 2nd, and not 
downshift to 1st upon takeoff like it normally would.  If you do 
kick it down to 1st, it will not upshift to 2nd. Otherwise, if it 
starts in 2nd, it stays in 2nd.  What the heck could the problem 
be?  Im going to change the fluid and filter again thinking maybe 
its plugged up or something.  What all else would prevent an upshift?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Rich Thomas
Try this  
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/01/maker_workshop_pdf_dtv_antenna.html  
They supposedly work quite well.


When I find a few minutes I'm gonna make one and put it up on the pole 
where an old marginal antenna is now.


--R

Jim Cathey wrote:

How big is your antenna/rotor?


Not very.  Same old rabbit ears/piece of wire on the floor/
strange circular ring on top of the house.

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna for 
under $200.


More money to soak out of the consumer for the 'upgrade'!

If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you 
wouldn't even need the rotor.


Nope, they're in two different directions.  One antenna we
can see (and that's the one we're getting signal from), the
others are all behind a rather large hill.

I ran two pieces of RG6 up to the chimney during the new construction.
The plan is for two antennae and to mix them down in the equipment
room and then route the result (whether on coax or Ethernet) to
wherever the TV is going to end up.  Someday.

SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Need Transmission

2009-02-28 Thread Frederick W Moir

Rusty will.
http://www.buymbparts.com (unbeatable service)
Kaleb may.
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Support your sponsors!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
190DT Bent.
190DT Blue.
300TD Sunshine.

At 09:03 AM 2/27/2009, you wrote:

Hello All - Great service here.  I need a transmission for a 1995 Mercedes
E320.  Anybody got one for sale that works?

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick

Valve body or governor.

Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 9:30 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, here we go again.  You all remember the 190D I bought with a  
bad tranny, put a used tranny I had it in, would not shift past  
2nd.  Yanked it out, put another tranny in.  It too would not shift  
past 2nd.  I played with it for a bit, shifting it back and forth  
from forward to reverse etc then all the sudden it started shifting  
just fine.  So, I have been driving that car for the last 2 months  
without a bit of problems.  Yesterday on the way to work, I get off  
the highway, stop at the light at the end of the ramp, then go,  
guess what, wont upshift!! WTF?  I drove the last 3 miles to work  
in 2nd then after work I messed with it a bit.  The fluid level is  
fine, not burned or anything like that.  The cable seems to pull  
out and go back in just fine. I dont really think its the kickdown  
stuck.  I drove it around the parking lot and I was thinking it was  
in first, but if I put it down into low you can then feel it shift  
down to first.  SO apparantly its starting out in 2nd, and not  
downshift to 1st upon takeoff like it normally would.  If you do  
kick it down to 1st, it will not upshift to 2nd. Otherwise, if it  
starts in 2nd, it stays in 2nd.  What the heck could the problem  
be?  Im going to change the fluid and filter again thinking maybe  
its plugged up or something.  What all else would prevent an upshift?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
I'm using the ancient omnidirectional antenna my father put up in the  
antic 40 years ago or more for FM.  Works just fine for analog (lots  
of snow, but good audio signal), but I'll have to put on a new  
antenna this spring for digital.  Fortunately we have most of the  
transmitters off to the southeast, only one station is to the north  
and we can't get that all the time now, even analog.


I suppose I'll have to get a rotator for that one.

Vastly cheaper than cable, and since you can only get ONE PBS station  
on cable no matter where you are or how many are out there, I'm  
sticking with broadcast in any case.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 9:37 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


How big is your antenna/rotor?


Not very.  Same old rabbit ears/piece of wire on the floor/
strange circular ring on top of the house.

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna  
for under $200.


More money to soak out of the consumer for the 'upgrade'!

If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you  
wouldn't even need the rotor.


Nope, they're in two different directions.  One antenna we
can see (and that's the one we're getting signal from), the
others are all behind a rather large hill.

I ran two pieces of RG6 up to the chimney during the new construction.
The plan is for two antennae and to mix them down in the equipment
room and then route the result (whether on coax or Ethernet) to
wherever the TV is going to end up.  Someday.

SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread OK Don
It's a conspiracy to get you away from the TV ---

On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 9:37 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:


 SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
 plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

 -- Jim



-- 
OK Don
W124 Diesels
Ubuntu 8.10
KD5NRO
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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
You can also use brake fluid and the master cylinder in the car,  
although it's a PITA to do it attached to the brake hose.  You are  
going to change the fluid anyway  I do that with stuck ones, the  
rest have all come out very easily with two screwdrivers.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 9:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Be carefull to pry straight out.  You can also use LOW air  
pressure by clamping one piston at a time with a C-clamp to pop  
the other one out.  10 psi, Max,--


The best method I've found to get these out is to pump them
out using a clean grease gun and water.  (Assuming they're
not ready to just pull right out with gentle pressure.)
The caliper threads right on the end of the grease gun,
and you're going to want to clean out the caliper guts
anyway.  The pumping is high pressure but low volume,
so the extraction is very controlled.  And no air-pressure
spring to slam the puck into you or the caliper,
breaking something like fingers or itself.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Remember that you MUST have a proper ground AND a lightening arrester  
on a good ground, else you risk both a serious house fire and an  
exploded TV from lightening strikes.  This is particularly important  
if you live in 'burb with no trees around.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

Try this  http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/01/ 
maker_workshop_pdf_dtv_antenna.html  They supposedly work quite well.


When I find a few minutes I'm gonna make one and put it up on the  
pole where an old marginal antenna is now.


--R

Jim Cathey wrote:

How big is your antenna/rotor?


Not very.  Same old rabbit ears/piece of wire on the floor/
strange circular ring on top of the house.

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna  
for under $200.


More money to soak out of the consumer for the 'upgrade'!

If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you  
wouldn't even need the rotor.


Nope, they're in two different directions.  One antenna we
can see (and that's the one we're getting signal from), the
others are all behind a rather large hill.

I ran two pieces of RG6 up to the chimney during the new  
construction.

The plan is for two antennae and to mix them down in the equipment
room and then route the result (whether on coax or Ethernet) to
wherever the TV is going to end up.  Someday.

SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread E M
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
This applies to outdoor antennas, of course.   Unlikely to get a  
strike on an attic antenna, but I suppose anything is possible.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 11:20 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Remember that you MUST have a proper ground AND a lightening  
arrester on a good ground, else you risk both a serious house fire  
and an exploded TV from lightening strikes.  This is particularly  
important if you live in 'burb with no trees around.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

Try this  http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/01/ 
maker_workshop_pdf_dtv_antenna.html  They supposedly work quite well.


When I find a few minutes I'm gonna make one and put it up on the  
pole where an old marginal antenna is now.


--R

Jim Cathey wrote:

How big is your antenna/rotor?


Not very.  Same old rabbit ears/piece of wire on the floor/
strange circular ring on top of the house.

Last I knew, you could mail order a sizable deep fringe antenna  
for under $200.


More money to soak out of the consumer for the 'upgrade'!

If all the transmitters are in the same direction from you, you  
wouldn't even need the rotor.


Nope, they're in two different directions.  One antenna we
can see (and that's the one we're getting signal from), the
others are all behind a rather large hill.

I ran two pieces of RG6 up to the chimney during the new  
construction.

The plan is for two antennae and to mix them down in the equipment
room and then route the result (whether on coax or Ethernet) to
wherever the TV is going to end up.  Someday.

SO much better than just taking the TV out of the box and
plugging it in.  Yes-siree!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
 done.

-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread E M
 the rears, I figure I'll deal with the front myself.

 Originally I'd planned to rebuild the old fronts anyway so I figured
 this
 was a good way to start, then take the ones I'd bought and shove 'em up
 the
 kid's nose at Advance Auto. Then it occured to me I'd probably be better
 to
 throw a rebuild kit into the leaker myself. I'll probably even learn
 something before I'm done.

 -Curt




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[MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread John Robbins

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1051378587.html  

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Re: [MBZ] 1986 Mercedes Diesel $600 (jim C?)

2009-02-28 Thread Kevin Kraly
Since it's a 1 year engine only in the '87 300D and 2 in the '86 and '87 
300SDL, I can understand!  I'd be all over it if parking and budget 
permitted.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 



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[MBZ] AUX Air Valve ??

2009-02-28 Thread E M
Hi Everyone,

Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.  I
idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.  I
check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move the
small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.

My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also heating
it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp should
I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??

Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one laying
about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?

Ed
300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465 kms.
;-)
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[MBZ] Sterring gearbox

2009-02-28 Thread larry turner
I need a replacement Steering G'box and found one in a 83.  Which PS GB's will 
fit a 78 240D W123?  I hope you will say any other W123 - 
;-)

LarryT
78 240D  91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve ??

2009-02-28 Thread Wilton Strickland
So, how did the baby finger feel after half an hour in the freezer.  Did it
move freely?  I know it's a reach, but I couldn't help it.   He,he.
;)

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 2:47 PM
Subject: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve ??


 Hi Everyone,

 Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
 valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
 Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.
I
 idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.
I
 check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
 pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
 flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move the
 small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
 the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.

 My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also
heating
 it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp
should
 I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??

 Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one
laying
 about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?

 Ed
 300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465 kms.
 ;-)
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[MBZ] Greg doing an acceleration run in the 2.5T

2009-02-28 Thread John Robbins

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CNARxBeyCs

The 0-60 is 13 seconds, which, IIRC, is exactly what it's supposed to 
be.  :-)


He's FINALLY decided to buy the car off of me.  He's given me a todo 
list, and it'll be delivered to him when he gets out of boot camp (early 
May).


John

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Re: [MBZ] Greg doing an acceleration run in the 2.5T

2009-02-28 Thread Luther

Damnit, you make my SDL jealous!

Luther

John Robbins wrote:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CNARxBeyCs

The 0-60 is 13 seconds, which, IIRC, is exactly what it's supposed to 
be.  :-)


He's FINALLY decided to buy the car off of me.  He's given me a todo 
list, and it'll be delivered to him when he gets out of boot camp 
(early May).


John 


--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread Rich Thomas
That could be seriously dangerous to visit that shop.  With a truck and 
trailer in tow, deadly.


--R

John Robbins wrote:
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1051378587.html   


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Re: [MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:22:01 -0600 John Robbins je...@msstate.edu wrote:

 http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1051378587.html

Lots of good stuff! A little far for me, though.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve ??

2009-02-28 Thread E M
Feeling still hasn't returned yet, and I seem to have a AUX stuck on the end
of it now too. lol

Ed
300E

2009/2/28 Wilton Strickland wilt...@nc.rr.com

 So, how did the baby finger feel after half an hour in the freezer.  Did it
 move freely?  I know it's a reach, but I couldn't help it.   He,he.
 ;)

 Wilton

 - Original Message -
 From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 2:47 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve ??


  Hi Everyone,
 
  Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
  valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
  Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.
 I
  idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.
 I
  check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
  pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
  flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move
 the
  small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
  the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.
 
  My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also
 heating
  it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp
 should
  I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??
 
  Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one
 laying
  about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?
 
  Ed
  300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465
 kms.
  ;-)
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Re: [MBZ] dijatul

2009-02-28 Thread RELNGSON
 1 Jun, people still won't be ready. Wilton..
 
So true. During my military period, I learned that no matter what, there is 
that 10% that never get the word.

RLE
 
 




**
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Re: [MBZ] TV converters

2009-02-28 Thread RELNGSON
 The ones with digital tuners, yes. It's been a few years since they 
 made them with analog only tuners
 
Nothing required if you are on cable.

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Need Transmission

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I dont have one.

Frederick W Moir wrote:

Rusty will.
http://www.buymbparts.com (unbeatable service)
Kaleb may.
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
Support your sponsors!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
190DT Bent.
190DT Blue.
300TD Sunshine.

At 09:03 AM 2/27/2009, you wrote:
Hello All - Great service here.  I need a transmission for a 1995 
Mercedes

E320.  Anybody got one for sale that works?

Peter
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
well the tranny has been sitting a while before I installed it, I 
figured after it started working it was cleared out.  How do you check 
what is stuck in the valve body or govenor?


Peter Frederick wrote:

Valve body or governor.

Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 9:30 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, here we go again.  You all remember the 190D I bought with a bad 
tranny, put a used tranny I had it in, would not shift past 2nd.  
Yanked it out, put another tranny in.  It too would not shift past 
2nd.  I played with it for a bit, shifting it back and forth from 
forward to reverse etc then all the sudden it started shifting just 
fine.  So, I have been driving that car for the last 2 months without 
a bit of problems.  Yesterday on the way to work, I get off the 
highway, stop at the light at the end of the ramp, then go, guess 
what, wont upshift!! WTF?  I drove the last 3 miles to work in 2nd 
then after work I messed with it a bit.  The fluid level is fine, not 
burned or anything like that.  The cable seems to pull out and go back 
in just fine. I dont really think its the kickdown stuck.  I drove it 
around the parking lot and I was thinking it was in first, but if I 
put it down into low you can then feel it shift down to first.  SO 
apparantly its starting out in 2nd, and not downshift to 1st upon 
takeoff like it normally would.  If you do kick it down to 1st, it 
will not upshift to 2nd. Otherwise, if it starts in 2nd, it stays in 
2nd.  What the heck could the problem be?  Im going to change the 
fluid and filter again thinking maybe its plugged up or something.  
What all else would prevent an upshift?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

interesting, all I need is more stuff though.

John Robbins wrote:
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1051378587.html   


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Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Greg doing an acceleration run in the 2.5T

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

damn, oh well, I didnt need that thing anyway.

John Robbins wrote:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CNARxBeyCs

The 0-60 is 13 seconds, which, IIRC, is exactly what it's supposed to 
be.  :-)


He's FINALLY decided to buy the car off of me.  He's given me a todo 
list, and it'll be delivered to him when he gets out of boot camp (early 
May).


John

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I just happen to have a truck and trailer standing by, no room in the 
garage though.


Rich Thomas wrote:
That could be seriously dangerous to visit that shop.  With a truck and 
trailer in tow, deadly.


--R

John Robbins wrote:
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/1051378587.html  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] dijatul

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Bernard Montgomery's famous line was the only thing you can be sure  
of is that the one person that really needs the information won't get  
it


He used that as the basis for all of his planning, meaning that he  
made absolutely certain that everyone knew what those in the next  
section were supposed to do and what should be done if it didn't happen.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 3:07 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:


1 Jun, people still won't be ready. Wilton..

So true. During my military period, I learned that no matter what,  
there is

that 10% that never get the word.

RLE








**
Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your
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(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26 
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[MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Philip
I got my box of parts from Rusty - included a new block heater
cord.

When I reached in under the airfilter to unplug the old one,
the connector felt odd.

From underneath I could see it. Attached is a picture of it.

Not like any block heater I've seen before on these cars. Anyone
else seen one like this? I think the knurled ring is what holds
the connector to the heater.

The outside end of the cable is wearing, and my meter says
there's not a low impedance path from chassis ground to AC
safety ground. 


Anyway, it's still functions and gets plugged into a GFCI
outlet - so for now I guess I'll leave it.

-- Philip
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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
You will need to get the pressure specs and the gauge hook-ups to  
test the control pressures and shift points.


Peter

On Feb 28, 2009, at 4:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

well the tranny has been sitting a while before I installed it, I  
figured after it started working it was cleared out.  How do you  
check what is stuck in the valve body or govenor?


Peter Frederick wrote:

Valve body or governor.
Peter
On Feb 28, 2009, at 9:30 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
OK, here we go again.  You all remember the 190D I bought with a  
bad tranny, put a used tranny I had it in, would not shift past  
2nd.  Yanked it out, put another tranny in.  It too would not  
shift past 2nd.  I played with it for a bit, shifting it back and  
forth from forward to reverse etc then all the sudden it started  
shifting just fine.  So, I have been driving that car for the  
last 2 months without a bit of problems.  Yesterday on the way to  
work, I get off the highway, stop at the light at the end of the  
ramp, then go, guess what, wont upshift!! WTF?  I drove the last  
3 miles to work in 2nd then after work I messed with it a bit.   
The fluid level is fine, not burned or anything like that.  The  
cable seems to pull out and go back in just fine. I dont really  
think its the kickdown stuck.  I drove it around the parking lot  
and I was thinking it was in first, but if I put it down into low  
you can then feel it shift down to first.  SO apparantly its  
starting out in 2nd, and not downshift to 1st upon takeoff like  
it normally would.  If you do kick it down to 1st, it will not  
upshift to 2nd. Otherwise, if it starts in 2nd, it stays in 2nd.   
What the heck could the problem be?  Im going to change the fluid  
and filter again thinking maybe its plugged up or something.   
What all else would prevent an upshift?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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- 
---

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database:  
270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I have seen plenty of those, its just a different brand.

Philip wrote:

I got my box of parts from Rusty - included a new block heater
cord.

When I reached in under the airfilter to unplug the old one,
the connector felt odd.


From underneath I could see it. Attached is a picture of it.


Not like any block heater I've seen before on these cars. Anyone
else seen one like this? I think the knurled ring is what holds
the connector to the heater.

The outside end of the cable is wearing, and my meter says
there's not a low impedance path from chassis ground to AC
safety ground. 



Anyway, it's still functions and gets plugged into a GFCI
outlet - so for now I guess I'll leave it.

-- Philip
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yea, I kind of figured, where would one find a gauge that would work?

Peter Frederick wrote:
You will need to get the pressure specs and the gauge hook-ups to test 
the control pressures and shift points.


Peter


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Christopher McCann

your old one is 500W and the new cable you got is for the new 400W heater.

Chris


'85 300SD 241K mi/'92 Dodge B-350 Ram Wagon/'75 240D/'80 300SD/'82 300SD/'83 
240D/'84 300Dt/'85 300Dt Cali (parting out)/'87 190E 2.3 (parting out)


--- On Sat, 2/28/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 4:33 PM
 I have seen plenty of those, its just a different brand.
 
 Philip wrote:
  I got my box of parts from Rusty - included a new
 block heater
  cord.
  
  When I reached in under the airfilter to unplug the
 old one,
  the connector felt odd.
  
  From underneath I could see it. Attached is a
 picture of it.
  
  Not like any block heater I've seen before on
 these cars. Anyone
  else seen one like this? I think the knurled ring is
 what holds
  the connector to the heater.
  
  The outside end of the cable is wearing, and my meter
 says
  there's not a low impedance path from chassis
 ground to AC
  safety ground. 
  
  Anyway, it's still functions and gets plugged into
 a GFCI
  outlet - so for now I guess I'll leave it.
  
  -- Philip
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
  
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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  
  
 
 
  
  
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus
 Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00
  
 
 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89
 560SEL,
  89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D
 x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Wilton Strickland
'Looks somewhat like an aircraft-type Cannon plug (electrical connector).
'Probably turn than knurled ring counterclockwise to unscrew it, then pull
it upward to disconnect it.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: Philip phi...@dni-inc.com
To: Mercedes list mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 3:31 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Strange block heater


 I got my box of parts from Rusty - included a new block heater
 cord.

 When I reached in under the airfilter to unplug the old one,
 the connector felt odd.

 From underneath I could see it. Attached is a picture of it.

 Not like any block heater I've seen before on these cars. Anyone
 else seen one like this? I think the knurled ring is what holds
 the connector to the heater.

 The outside end of the cable is wearing, and my meter says
 there's not a low impedance path from chassis ground to AC
 safety ground.


 Anyway, it's still functions and gets plugged into a GFCI
 outlet - so for now I guess I'll leave it.

 -- Philip
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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
That's an odd one alright.  Probably a good idea to keep using it until it 
fails.

--- On Sat, 2/28/09, Philip phi...@dni-inc.com wrote:

From: Philip phi...@dni-inc.com
Subject: [MBZ] Strange block heater
To: Mercedes list mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 3:31 PM

I got my box of parts from Rusty - included a new block heater
cord.

When I reached in under the airfilter to unplug the old one,
the connector felt odd.

From underneath I could see it. Attached is a picture of it.

Not like any block heater I've seen before on these cars. Anyone
else seen one like this? I think the knurled ring is what holds
the connector to the heater.

The outside end of the cable is wearing, and my meter says
there's not a low impedance path from chassis ground to AC
safety ground. 


Anyway, it's still functions and gets plugged into a GFCI
outlet - so for now I guess I'll leave it.

-- Philip
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Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123?

2009-02-28 Thread Hendrik Fay
The laws have been changed, not real sure how but it is real difficult 
to import a car newer than 88. Something along the lines that you have 
to prove that the model you want to bring in is a 'collectors' specimen 
(which means it was not sold here), or if you own a car overseas for 12 
months you can bring it back with you.
Stupid thing is you can still get the high performance Japanese rice 
rockets, which go fast but have questionable safety ratings. We are 
seeing quite a few kids wipe themselves out with these things, they 
don't have the skills to handle the speed and when they come off the 
rails the ricers just fall apart.
However SH Benzes are a no no because the model line up for 
Japan/HK/other RHD nations was pretty much the same as Oz.


Hendrik

Mitch Haley wrote:

Alex Chamberlain wrote:


Doesn't make much sense to me this side of the world since the Nissan
diesels and parts for them are rare as hens' teeth up here compared to
OM617s and their parts.  Is the situation reversed in NZ?


In Nippon, consumption of new cars is encouraged by taxing the heck 
out of old cars, so that perfectly serviceable low mile specimens are 
scrapped or exported.


In the Penal Colonies, car prices are kept high by taxes, and there is 
strong demand for affordable RHD automobiles.


Result: There are a lot of used Japanese cars running around Aussieland.

Mitch.






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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve/idle air valve/idle speed adjuster/idle control valve

2009-02-28 Thread Hendrik Fay
I take it you are talking about the electrically operated idle air valve 
(MB call it the idle speed adjuster) that sits just forward of the fuel 
distributor?

http://www.buymbparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES-300eyearid=1988%40%401988makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6200%3AMBC|1507%3AED|1013%40%40300Ecatid=240621@@Fuel+Injectionsubcatid=240654@@Idle+Control+Valvemode=PA
The test for these things is applying battery voltage and you should 
hear it move.


Hendrik

E M wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.  I
idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.  I
check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move the
small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.

My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also heating
it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp should
I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??

Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one laying
about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?

Ed
300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465 kms.

  



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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Fmiser
 Christopher wrote:
 
 your old one is 500W and the new cable you got is for the new
 400W heater.

Curious!

It also sounds different when I have it plugged in. 

Yeah, yeah - others think I'm weird too. *grin*  But my garage
is rather quiet, and I listen for the noise of the heater as
verification it's really plugged in. Then I engage the timer for
when I want it to really turn on. 

This one makes a different sort of noise that the other ones. 

I guess 400W will do the job. Does Rusty have a cord for this
style too?

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Strange block heater

2009-02-28 Thread Fmiser
 Wilton wrote:

 'Looks somewhat like an aircraft-type Cannon plug
 (electrical connector). 'Probably turn than knurled ring
 counterclockwise to unscrew it, then pull it upward to
 disconnect it.

That's what I was thinking. One my first attempt, I did manage
to touch it. No way I could grasp the ring with enough force to
turn it. 

I'll just put it off until I'm desperate and need it done before
morning and then stay up all night fighting with it. No point in
making the job easier!!

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Fmiser
  Peter Frederick wrote:
 
  You will need to get the pressure specs and the gauge
  hook-ups to test the control pressures and shift points.

 Kaleb wrote:

 yea, I kind of figured, where would one find a gauge that
 would work?

For my Chevy transmissions, I just bought a 4 ft (1.5 m) piece of
high-pressure hydraulic line with the appropriate size fitting
and a 400 PSI (or so) gauge.  Next time I'll probably get a
longer hose so I have more routing options.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] '94 or '95 W124 Headlight Lenses/Wipers [was Re: European Headlights]

2009-02-28 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 23:09:26 -0600 Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 Euro headlights on a W124 have a single (removable no less) glass  
 cover over the entire headlamp -- from the parking/turn signal lamp  
 to the grill.  No plastic surround at all, the glass extends from the  
 trim at the bottom to the hood and from turn signal to grill,  
 including over the fog lamp.
 
 Wiper pivot is toward the outside, not the inside, and the wiper is  
 longer so that it will wipe the fog light area as well as the headlamp.
 
 Impossible to mistake one for the other, especially if the DOT  
 plastic cover over the fog lamp has not been replaced by now, it will  
 be yellowed, dirty, and usually cracked.

I take it, then, that our '94 E420 has Euro headlights, as shown in the
attached picture.


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] OT Pinnacle TV adapter

2009-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
I was under the impression an antenna was an antenna, DTV or analog...

Confirmation: http://www.dennysantennaservice.com/1373792.html


-Curt

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:15:50 -0600
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re:  OT Pinnacle TV adapter
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 8c880f19-96d1-4f24-af94-61eb3c57d...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

I'm using the ancient omnidirectional antenna my father put up in the  
antic 40 years ago or more for FM.  Works just fine for analog (lots  
of snow, but good audio signal), but I'll have to put on a new  
antenna this spring for digital.  Fortunately we have most of the  
transmitters off to the southeast, only one station is to the north  
and we can't get that all the time now, even analog.

I suppose I'll have to get a rotator for that one.

Vastly cheaper than cable, and since you can only get ONE PBS station  
on cable no matter where you are or how many are out there, I'm  
sticking with broadcast in any case.

Peter



  
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Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123? -- construction

2009-02-28 Thread MG

Rich,
There was a recent This Old House where they used a timber framing 
company in the northeast. The company, Bensonwood, drew up the plans 
with input from the owners to be and then produced the timbers as well 
as the wall and roof sections that went with them. They basically put 
the whole thing together in sections at the factory to make sure 
everything fits and then it is all shipped to the site and put together 
by the same team.  Sounds like the easy way to do the whole thing. This 
is the link to the the Weston House.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tv/products-and-services/resources/0,,20198092,00.html

the timberframe company that did the house is;

Bensonwood
tel. 877-203-3562
http://www.bensonwood.com/

And this link should answer a lot of your questions.
http://www.bensonwood.com/about/faq.cfm

Manfred




Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 10:41:34 -0500
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A Nissan-ed W123? -- construction




I am trying to get a Professor of Timber Framing at the local American
College of the Building Arts here to help me get a timber frame designed
and cut, for some reason the professor can't find an engineer to approve
the design.  Must not be an aspect of the curriculum?  I suppose I could
do all the structural calculations for the frame design, then find
someone to stamp it, but I really wonder why this prof can't sort it out.


--R


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Re: [MBZ] Attn Kaleb: Auto shop going out of business auction

2009-02-28 Thread Luther

No room in the garage?  I can help

Luther

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I just happen to have a truck and trailer standing by, no room in the 
garage though.


Rich Thomas wrote:
That could be seriously dangerous to visit that shop.  With a truck 
and trailer in tow, deadly.


--R 

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Tony Wirtel

 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: 49a9bbfe.9070...@striplin.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 yea, I kind of figured, where would one find a gauge that would work?

 Peter Frederick wrote:
  You will need to get the pressure specs and the gauge hook-ups to test
  the control pressures and shift points.
 
  Peter


KAleb- to set pressure for the modulator I used the banjo bolt combo used on
the top thermostat housing of certain w124 cars.  SInce pressure was ~ 50
PSI PVC tubing worked fine, but sounds like you need to measure pump
pressure and working pressure.

If you need the p/n for the bajo bolt let me know; have them at work and can
get them Monday.

Tony Wirtel
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[MBZ] OT Snowmobile

2009-02-28 Thread Fmiser
So how much snow is needed to consider using a snowmobile?

I'm thinking an old, out-dated $100 machine. We don't get much
snow around here, but once or twice a winter there's enough I'd
consider cross-country skiing. Is 4 inches (10 cm) enough? Or am
I crazy for even thinking about it?

Maybe I should just get a dirt/snow bike...

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve/idle air valve/idle speed adjuster/idle control valve

2009-02-28 Thread E M
Beside the voltage from the electrical connection, which I understand just
heats a bi metal strip faster, won't the bi metal strip operate the same way
when subjected to heat and cold, only slower?

Is there a way to test the electrical connection too to ensure proper power
is getting to the valve?  I have a pretty good multimeter, but need some
guidance as to what setting I should put it on for testing?

Thanks Hendrik

Ed
300E

2009/2/28 Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

 I take it you are talking about the electrically operated idle air valve
 (MB call it the idle speed adjuster) that sits just forward of the fuel
 distributor?

 http://www.buymbparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES-300eyearid=1988%40%401988makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6200%3AMBC|1507%3AED|1013%40%40300Ecatid=240621@@Fuel+Injectionsubcatid=240654@@Idle+Control+Valvemode=PAhttp://www.buymbparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES-300eyearid=1988%40%401988makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6200%3AMBC%7C1507%3AED%7C1013%40%40300Ecatid=240621@@Fuel+Injectionsubcatid=240654@@Idle+Control+Valvemode=PA
 The test for these things is applying battery voltage and you should hear
 it move.

 Hendrik

 E M wrote:

 Hi Everyone,

 Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
 valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
 Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.
  I
 idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.
  I
 check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
 pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
 flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move the
 small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
 the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.

 My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also
 heating
 it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp
 should
 I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??

 Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one
 laying
 about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?

 Ed
 300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465 kms.





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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve/idle air valve/idle speed adjuster/idle control valve

2009-02-28 Thread E M
Sorry, my first reply didn't include to say that, yes, the picture if of the
valve I'm talking about.  And yikes, how the price of these things has gone
though the roof in the past couple of years!  Same with similar porsche
bits.  What I bought a few years back for $150, is now $600 or more!!  Glad
I have a few spare bits and pieces sitting on the shelf.

Always surprised some Chinese company didn't make cheaper copies of these.
As some of these cars are aging, and their value going down, maybe this is
an area where a cheap Chinese part costing  1/4 that of the original can be
justified?  As I said in my previous post, some CIS Porsche pieces that cost
less than $200 a few year back, are now pushing $700 and up!

Ed
300E

2009/2/28 Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

 I take it you are talking about the electrically operated idle air valve
 (MB call it the idle speed adjuster) that sits just forward of the fuel
 distributor?

 http://www.buymbparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES-300eyearid=1988%40%401988makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6200%3AMBC|1507%3AED|1013%40%40300Ecatid=240621@@Fuel+Injectionsubcatid=240654@@Idle+Control+Valvemode=PAhttp://www.buymbparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-MERCEDES-300eyearid=1988%40%401988makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%40%40Xmodelid=6200%3AMBC%7C1507%3AED%7C1013%40%40300Ecatid=240621@@Fuel+Injectionsubcatid=240654@@Idle+Control+Valvemode=PA
 The test for these things is applying battery voltage and you should hear
 it move.

 Hendrik

 E M wrote:

 Hi Everyone,

 Not sure the Mercedes name for the part, but the AUX Air Valve. The air
 valve which allows extrat air on start up on gassers on the CIS system.
 Anyway, I've been going over the car a bit when the weather has allowed.
  I
 idle is somewhat high, and stays high.  I've been looking for air leaks.
  I
 check the boot on the horn, fine, two hoses going to the AUX, fine.  I
 pulled the Valve off, (the one that looks like a tomato paste can) and
 flushed well with brake cleaner.  I stuck my finger in, and I can move the
 small flapper valve to the fully open with my baby finger.  I stuck it in
 the freezer for half hour, too see if much movement.

 My question is, I want to do the test again, both freezer, and also
 heating
 it up, and then observe an movement.  Freezer is easy, but what temp
 should
 I heat it to, to see that it closes as it should??

 Thanks in advance.  Also, if it's fried, does anyone have a used one
 laying
 about for an '88, W124 3.0 ?

 Ed
 300E, just passed emissions with flying colours.  Not bad for 344,465 kms.





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Re: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?

2009-02-28 Thread MG
If you bought the Lifetime warranty front calipers from Advanced auto 
they should give you new rebuilt ones free. I haven't had any problems 
with that on stuff I've bought there. Just take the old ones in and they 
can look it up and give you the new ones. Or you can buy new ones and 
then bring the old ones in and they will refund the money.


Manfred



Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 19:15:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
Subject: [MBZ] Caliper Repair?



Originally I'd planned to rebuild the old fronts anyway so I figured 
this was a good way to start, then take the ones I'd bought and shove 
'em up the kid's nose at Advance Auto. Then it occurred to me I'd 
probably be better to throw a rebuild kit into the leaker myself. I'll 
probably even learn something before I'm done.


-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] TV converters

2009-02-28 Thread Loren Faeth
Just hooked up my converter box to a set of rabbit ears from a 
long-dead TV.  Hooked that to a TV that my daughter rejects, and i 
have 9 stations and can use a tv that was otherwise unused.  Not 
bad.  Just wish I could get tvland and TCM for free.  Probably better 
things to come after Bambam quits delaying the digital switchover.




Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] STupid 190D tranny

2009-02-28 Thread Loren Faeth
I have a 1000 PSI gauge you can borrow or buy.  oil filled. sweep is 
something like 330 degrees.  commonly used with working pressures 
around 400 to 500 PSI.





Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Sterring gearbox

2009-02-28 Thread Barry Stark
Larry -
Best I can do is an '83 TDM says it covers from Jan '80 to '83. It appears
that all 240Ds are 123.123 and it also appears that all 123 take the 765.704
(LS90) gearbox, P/N 123.460.58.01. Assumes power steering and left hand
steering.

Barry

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of larry turner
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Sterring gearbox

I need a replacement Steering G'box and found one in a 83.  Which PS GB's
will fit a 78 240D W123?  I hope you will say any other W123 - 
;-)

LarryT
78 240D  91 300D



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Re: [MBZ] AUX Air Valve/idle air valve/idle speed adjuster/idle control valve

2009-02-28 Thread Hendrik Fay
You may heat and cool it all you like but being fully electrical in 
operation you will be wasting your time, it is not like the earlier ones 
found in K jet cars.
Difference being that the K jet ones where cold idle valves which 
basically has a cold engine setting and warm engine setting, whereas the 
newer ones work all the time to stabilize the engine idle and compensate 
for extra load.


Hendrik

E M wrote:

Beside the voltage from the electrical connection, which I understand just
heats a bi metal strip faster, won't the bi metal strip operate the same way
when subjected to heat and cold, only slower?

Is there a way to test the electrical connection too to ensure proper power
is getting to the valve?  I have a pretty good multimeter, but need some
guidance as to what setting I should put it on for testing?

Thanks Hendrik

Ed
300E
  

  



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