Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: I buy a W116 300SD

2011-03-01 Thread Jim Cathey
Then I looked closely and it looks like there are vertical wires, thin 
as hairs.  Is this how the defroster is set up on the W116?


Sounds just like a 107, or 126.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] ACC circulation pump running continuously, W116

2011-03-01 Thread Jim Cathey

Can the Chrysler ACC fail in such a way that it's always energized?


Absolutely.  That's their favorite way to fail!

-- Jim



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[MBZ] My Merc did a million clicks and all they gave me was a lousy badge

2011-03-01 Thread Hendrik & Fay

http://www.wheels.ca/article/asset/794201
Although I do believe that the million K badges have gold in them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-BENZ-ONE-MILLION-KILOMETER-MILEAGE-BADGE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51976632dbQQitemZ350432408283QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Hendrik
who is nowhere near a million, unless you add them all together

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s and washing machines?

2011-03-01 Thread Hendrik & Fay

Yes but your transmission will be so much cleaner with a Miele filter.

Hendrik
who has a Miele washer, dryer and vacuum cleaner but doesn't use them

Dieselhead wrote:

You should only use MANN filters in a 124.  Rusty has them.


Quick question for you guys.  I'd like to do a transmission filter and
pan-gasket change on my '87 300D.  I I have the Miele (I think) kit
that includes both the filter and gasket on one big shrinkwrapped
card, which I bought for my '86 300E at some point and never used.  Is
this the same part?  I know they're both 722.something transmissions.

Thanks, Alex






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Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off

2011-03-01 Thread Craig
On Tue, 1 Mar 2011 05:59:58 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
 wrote:

> "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" had a description and great drawing
> of the technique. In fact there are loads of great drawings in that
> book which is a great read even if you don't have an aircooled VW.
> 
> 
> No you can't borrow my copy.

So, when are you going to scan the pictures and post them to the list?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] ACC circulation pump running continuously, W116

2011-03-01 Thread OK Don
Exactly as Mitch described. When I turned off the car, with the ACC on off,
you could hear the servo parking it's self if you listened for it. '78
450SLC with the same ACC unit.

On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 8:16 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Allan Streib wrote:
>
> Can the Chrysler ACC fail in such a way that it's always energized?
>> Even with the main key switch "Off"?
>>
>
> My '79 cranked a little slow the morning after I bought it. Got it home,
> parked it a couple of days and the battery was dead flat.
> Problem turned out to be a stuck ACC servo that perpetually tried to park
> itself. (imagine a wiper motor that's stalled and can't get the blades down
> to shut itself off) The car was drawing 0.4A until I pulled that inline
> fuse.
>
> Mitch.
>
-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] ACC circulation pump running continuously, W116

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:


Can the Chrysler ACC fail in such a way that it's always energized?
Even with the main key switch "Off"?


My '79 cranked a little slow the morning after I bought it. Got it home, parked 
it a couple of days and the battery was dead flat.
Problem turned out to be a stuck ACC servo that perpetually tried to park 
itself. (imagine a wiper motor that's stalled and can't get the blades down to 
shut itself off) The car was drawing 0.4A until I pulled that inline fuse.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] source for floor mat/liners

2011-03-01 Thread buymbparts

I can get the actual carpet, under that is no longer available.


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Allan Streib 
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 18:47:07 
To: 
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: [MBZ] source for floor mat/liners

So when I pulled the water-saturated floor mats out of the 300SD, the
bottom layer (seems to be tar paper over a thin sheet of foam)
completely fell apart.  Is this material available?  I'm thinking of
replacing it with DynaMat or DynaPlate but that's rather expensive.  Or
maybe some bulk silicone foam padding.

Also I may need a new set of floor mats (the top level protective mats
and the "middle" level foam-padded mats) or even an entire carpet set,
depending on how well mine clean up.  At minimum, I'm missing the padded
mat from the right rear.  Anyone got any in good condition?  The color
is sort of a golden.  Seat leather is brown/tan (not dark brown).

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Interresting Tidbit

2011-03-01 Thread OK Don
Indeed - thanks, Hans!

On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 6:07 AM, Walt Zarnoch  wrote:

> Very interesting! Always nice to know the history.
>
> Walt
>  On Mar 1, 2011 7:01 AM, "Hans Neureiter"  wrote:
> > The origin of the star
> >
> > DMG now had a successful brand name, but still lacked a characteristic
> > trademark. Then Paul and Adolf Daimler – the company founder’s two sons,
> and
> > now senior executives at DMG – remembered that their father, who had died
> in
> > March 1900 shortly before his 66th birthday, had once used a star as a
> > symbol.
> >
> > Gottlieb Daimler had been technical director of the Deutz gas engine
> factory
> > from 1872 until 1881. At the beginning of his employment there, he had
> > marked a star above his own house on a picture postcard of Cologne and
> > Deutz, and had written to his wife that this star would one day shine
> over
> > his own factory to symbolize prosperity.
> >
> > The DMG board immediately accepted the proposal and in June 1909, both a
> > three-pointed and a four-pointed star were registered as trademarks.
> > Although both designs were legally protected, only the three-pointed star
> > was used. From 1910 onward, a three-dimensional star adorned the radiator
> at
> > the front of the car.
> >
> > The three-pointed star was supposed to symbolize Daimler’s ambition of
> > universal motorization – “on land, on water and in the air”. Over the
> years,
> > various small additions were made. In 1916, the tips were surrounded by a
> > circle, in which four small stars and the word Mercedes were integrated,
> or
> > alternatively the names of the DMG plants at Untertürkheim or
> > Berlin-Marienfelde.
> >
> > In November 1921, DMG applied for legal protection of utility patents for
> > new variations on their trademark and lodged with the patent office a
> > three-dimensional three-pointed star enclosed in a circle – which
> included
> > the design intended for use on the radiator grille. It became a
> registered
> > trademark in August 1923.
> >
> >
> > --
> > --
>
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] ACC circulation pump running continuously, W116

2011-03-01 Thread Allan Streib
I put the battery charger on my new-to-me W116 today, it was flat dead
and I wanted to see if it would take a charge.  I came out later to see
how it was looking and I heard a noise up near the firewall.  It seemed
to be the circulation pump, or something else in the ACC control unit
(this is the dreaded Chrysler "servo" right?  A black box by the
firewall on the left side of the car, with a bunch of wires an vacuum
tubes running into the top).

The key was in the off position, and removed.  ACC button array was
"Off".  I started pulling fuses one by one and nothing made it stop
until I got to an in-line fuse (one of two in the fusebox) which was on
a red/yellow wire.  So I've got that fuse removed for now.

Can the Chrysler ACC fail in such a way that it's always energized?
Even with the main key switch "Off"?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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[MBZ] source for floor mat/liners

2011-03-01 Thread Allan Streib
So when I pulled the water-saturated floor mats out of the 300SD, the
bottom layer (seems to be tar paper over a thin sheet of foam)
completely fell apart.  Is this material available?  I'm thinking of
replacing it with DynaMat or DynaPlate but that's rather expensive.  Or
maybe some bulk silicone foam padding.

Also I may need a new set of floor mats (the top level protective mats
and the "middle" level foam-padded mats) or even an entire carpet set,
depending on how well mine clean up.  At minimum, I'm missing the padded
mat from the right rear.  Anyone got any in good condition?  The color
is sort of a golden.  Seat leather is brown/tan (not dark brown).

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod

2011-03-01 Thread Fmiser
> > Curt Raymond wrote:
> >
> > So my clutch rod plea just took a new turn. Rusty reports
> > 123 290 07 39 which is the '78 clutch rod is $215

> Mitch Haley wrote:
> 
> The one you have is identical but longer?
> With a big ball on the cylinder end?
> What's on the pedal end?

I just did a clutch master cylinder swap...  I'm not remembering
clearly which way mine ended up wrong.  The pedal end of the
rods are identical - or at least interchangeable.

I just checked the removed one.  It has a plain round end - no
ball.  It does not attach to the piston - the rod just rests in
a depression.  It came out of a late '80.

The replacement was from a late '81. Initially I left the rod on
the pedal arm - but the circuit would not bleed 'cause the long
rod prevented the piston from reaching the top if it's travel.
This replacement has a ball that "snaps" into the top of the
piston.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Thanks Mitch... with a bit of luck, I'll have a place to install such a
thing sometime this year.  I could really use it.  I've put in more than my
share laying on the ground in 2010!  (And I can just think of the
projects... 5 speed for the 300D, front end in the E320 and 300SD... hm..)

Jaime


On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 12:22 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2229233845.html
>
> ___
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>
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[MBZ] and I thought this was gonna' be easy

2011-03-01 Thread glenn brown

Got a shipment yesterday of misc. stuff and decided to replace the intake seal 
rings on both my '84 300D & '85 300TD.  As it turned out, this required most of 
the afternoon as even though I used a hair dryer to heat it up the seal ring 
for the intake to the air cleaner was a real BEAR.
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC   
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Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:

So my clutch rod plea just took a new turn. Rusty reports 123 290 07 39 which 
is the '78 clutch rod is $215


The one you have is identical but longer?
With a big ball on the cylinder end?
What's on the pedal end?

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[MBZ] Skydiver transfer

2011-03-01 Thread RELNGSON



http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1265891/Hold-think-youre-g
oing-Skydiver-grabs-gliders-tail-fin-fly-2-100-metres-100mph.html

RLE














ot


  

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Re: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD

2011-03-01 Thread Dan Penoff
This sounds similar to the setup for the W126. The back glass is a laminate 
with the defroster wires sandwiched in between.

It can be very easy to break unless it is handled by a professional installer. 
That being said, the professional installer that did my W126 rear window had it 
about 99% installed when a small corner of the glass cracked. 

He freaked, I bummed. 

My insurance company covered the MB factory replacement that came in from the 
depot the next day.

A couple of days later, my agent calls me .

"Do you plan on doing business with that glass company in the future?"

"I dunno, why?"

"We are going to subrogate the claim, and they might not be too happy with you 
as a result."

"Go for it."

Dan

Sent from my iPod

On Mar 1, 2011, at 11:21 AM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

> I noticed that the car has a switch with the standard rear defroster icon, 
> but the rear windshield is clear: no horizontal defroster wires as on my W123.
> 
> Then I looked closely and it looks like there are vertical wires, thin as 
> hairs.  Is this how the defroster is set up on the W116?  Anything to be 
> careful of if I change the window gasket?
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
> On Tue, 01 Mar 2011 06:01 -0800, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:
>> I love 116s.
>> 
>> I'd guess you've got 2 new windshield gaskets in your future. Both pools
>> of water could be explained by failed gaskets.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:13:47 -0500
>> From: "Allan Streib" 
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Subject: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD
>> Message-ID: <1298952827.30980.1424847...@webmail.messagingengine.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I sent this earlier but it never came through.  I'm guessing because of
>> the attached pic.  So here is a link instead.
>> 
>> http://img.skitch.com/20110301-ce2xaifi25qjprx3pp1ggdmqxi.jpg
>> 
>> This is the one that had the problem with the harmonic balancer.
>> 
>> Next
>> problem already identified: driver's floor soaking wet.  I pulled all 
>> the mats and padding out and there's some rust on the floor pan but no 
>> perforation.  So I'll hit that with rust converter and some POR-15.  
>> Would this likely be a clogged drain on the air intake?
>> 
>> Some 
>> water in the trunk also, but there was a bunch of leaves and dirt all 
>> around the seal so I think this was causing water to back up and 
>> overflow into the trunk.  I cleaned that all out; the seal itself seems 
>> OK.  The rear window seal is not in such good shape, however... quite a 
>> number of cracks along the bottom.
>> 
>> Fun to have a new project... hoping its something I can get on the road
>> fairly quickly.
>> 
>> Allan
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>> and now also 1979 300SD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
> 
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[MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod

2011-03-01 Thread Curt Raymond
So my clutch rod plea just took a new turn. Rusty reports 123 290 07 39 which 
is the '78 clutch rod is $215 (thats the Rusty price, $300 is their price!). So 
I'm definitely needing either a used replacement or I need to make mine work... 
Strange that the newer car item is 1/20th the price.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Every time I see a lift for sale for a price within the reach of
amateur wrenches I wonder the same thing:



The imports are pretty affordable.
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp9a-d.htm
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts-p/tp09a-d.htm

My goal is to get a Rotary, Snap-On, Bend-Pak, etc in nice condition for 
$800-1000. An indy about 40 miles from me upgraded a 7k clear floor Rotary to a 
12k and put the 7k on Craigslist for $1000 firm last fall. Too bad I didn't have 
a place with a 13' ceiling to set it up, as that was exactly what I wanted.
I used to think a single post in ground lift would be great, but they're a huge 
pain to install, and you can't do driveshaft or exhaust work with the lift in 
the middle of the car.


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Re: [MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:

A lift normally has (I would think) a ratchet mechanism of some sort, or pins 
that you lock in once the vehicle is raised.  They don't rely on hydraulic 
pressure alone to support the car.


Right. The ratchets clank every two inches or so.
I like to lower the car down onto the ratchets, like lowering a jack until the 
car hits the jack stands.

You have to hold the ratchet release while you lower the car when you're done.

I always lift the hoist until the suspension starts to rise, then double check 
to make sure the lift pads are where they belong. I've had to reposition once or 
twice.


Most guys just hit the lift button until the car is at the height they want.
I once worked with a guy who had dropped a sheriff's cruiser on its side. (it 
fell before anybody got under it)
Even after that, he could put a car in the air much faster than I did. But the 
time wasted getting that flipped Caprice from between the lift posts must have 
made up for a lifetime of saving a few seconds.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s?

2011-03-01 Thread Dieselhead

You should only use MANN filters in a 124.  Rusty has them.


Quick question for you guys.  I'd like to do a transmission filter and
pan-gasket change on my '87 300D.  I I have the Miele (I think) kit
that includes both the filter and gasket on one big shrinkwrapped
card, which I bought for my '86 300E at some point and never used.  Is
this the same part?  I know they're both 722.something transmissions.

Thanks, Alex

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Re: [MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Allan Streib
A lift normally has (I would think) a ratchet mechanism of some sort, or pins 
that you lock in once the vehicle is raised.  They don't rely on hydraulic 
pressure alone to support the car.

Allan


On Tue, 01 Mar 2011 09:41 -0800, "Alex Chamberlain"  
wrote:
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 9:22 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> > http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2229233845.html
> >
> 
> Every time I see a lift for sale for a price within the reach of
> amateur wrenches I wonder the same thing: why is it not OK to get
> under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack, but it's OK to get
> under a car supported only by a hydraulic lift?  Isn't the latter just
> as likely to kill you if the hydraulic system has a sudden
> catastrophic failure and loses pressure?  (Leaving aside the fact that
> a car supported only by a jack can be kind of tippy, since the same
> thing applies to a single jackstand if it's placed poorly.)
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 9:22 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2229233845.html
>

Every time I see a lift for sale for a price within the reach of
amateur wrenches I wonder the same thing: why is it not OK to get
under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack, but it's OK to get
under a car supported only by a hydraulic lift?  Isn't the latter just
as likely to kill you if the hydraulic system has a sudden
catastrophic failure and loses pressure?  (Leaving aside the fact that
a car supported only by a jack can be kind of tippy, since the same
thing applies to a single jackstand if it's placed poorly.)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off

2011-03-01 Thread Max Dillon
Yes indeed, a great book.  When I sold my '63 Beetle, my copy of that book went 
with it; book was well worn, car ran pretty good.

-Max





From: Curt Raymond 
To: Diesel List 
Sent: Tue, March 1, 2011 8:59:58 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off

"How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" had a description and great drawing of the 
technique. In fact there are loads of great drawings in that book which is a 
great read even if you don't have an aircooled VW.


No you can't borrow my copy.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:27:49 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

Congrats!

The tip about being unable to overtorque a 6mm with your thumb over 
the end came from a German at a Deutz Engine Service school.


  
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[MBZ] New toy for Jaime

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2229233845.html

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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread MG
A little bit more involved then that. There is the ground prep to 
get it all straight and level, not too bad, then there is the 
framing to keep the concrete in one place, again not too bad, 
Finally there is the screeing to level the concrete while the 
stuff comes out of the truck. That's the killer. At 61 that's 
just too much like work for me. When I get to it I'll have a 
couple of people I know do it for me, but that's still a bit down 
the road.


Manfred



Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 10:14:04 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts


5 yards of concrete ~$500. 20'x20'x4".
Or half that much 'crete and pay a small load delivery charge.
Tie two ropes to an old garage broom and have somebody help you 
pull it back and

forth to put a brushed finish on the 'crete.


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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread MG
Now why would you want to let something leak? Just think of all 
the fun you might have once you get into it. Why there must be 10 
 or more things that could be gotten done while you are down there.


Manfred
Don't know if I'm sadistic or masochistic. Maybe only bipolar or 
just schizoid. I do have 3 old Mercedes after all.




Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 06:32:52 -0600
From: Hans Neureiter 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts


I am having second thoughts.
Today I was planning to replace the leaky pitman shaft seal.
I wonder if I should just let it leak.
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s?

2011-03-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 8:46 AM, Rusty Cullens  wrote:
> yes.
>

Thanks, Rusty.

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s?

2011-03-01 Thread Rusty Cullens

yes.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "Alex Chamberlain" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 11:26 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s?



Quick question for you guys.  I'd like to do a transmission filter and
pan-gasket change on my '87 300D.  I I have the Miele (I think) kit
that includes both the filter and gasket on one big shrinkwrapped
card, which I bought for my '86 300E at some point and never used.  Is
this the same part?  I know they're both 722.something transmissions.

Thanks, Alex

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[MBZ] Tranny filter and gasket---same for gas/diesel early 124s?

2011-03-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Quick question for you guys.  I'd like to do a transmission filter and
pan-gasket change on my '87 300D.  I I have the Miele (I think) kit
that includes both the filter and gasket on one big shrinkwrapped
card, which I bought for my '86 300E at some point and never used.  Is
this the same part?  I know they're both 722.something transmissions.

Thanks, Alex

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Re: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD

2011-03-01 Thread Allan Streib
I noticed that the car has a switch with the standard rear defroster icon, but 
the rear windshield is clear: no horizontal defroster wires as on my W123.

Then I looked closely and it looks like there are vertical wires, thin as 
hairs.  Is this how the defroster is set up on the W116?  Anything to be 
careful of if I change the window gasket?

Allan


On Tue, 01 Mar 2011 06:01 -0800, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:
> I love 116s.
> 
> I'd guess you've got 2 new windshield gaskets in your future. Both pools
> of water could be explained by failed gaskets.
> 
> -Curt
> 
> Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:13:47 -0500
> From: "Allan Streib" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Subject: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD
> Message-ID: <1298952827.30980.1424847...@webmail.messagingengine.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I sent this earlier but it never came through.  I'm guessing because of
> the attached pic.  So here is a link instead.
> 
> http://img.skitch.com/20110301-ce2xaifi25qjprx3pp1ggdmqxi.jpg
> 
> This is the one that had the problem with the harmonic balancer.
> 
> Next
>  problem already identified: driver's floor soaking wet.  I pulled all 
> the mats and padding out and there's some rust on the floor pan but no 
> perforation.  So I'll hit that with rust converter and some POR-15.  
> Would this likely be a clogged drain on the air intake?
> 
> Some 
> water in the trunk also, but there was a bunch of leaves and dirt all 
> around the seal so I think this was causing water to back up and 
> overflow into the trunk.  I cleaned that all out; the seal itself seems 
> OK.  The rear window seal is not in such good shape, however... quite a 
> number of cracks along the bottom.
> 
> Fun to have a new project... hoping its something I can get on the road
> fairly quickly.
> 
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> and now also 1979 300SD
> 
> 
>   
> ___
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> 
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[MBZ] OT: the joy of new RAM

2011-03-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Somewhat apropos to the recent discussion of 32-bit vs 64-bit address
spaces and what happens when you add more than 4 Gb to a Windows
machine: I recently read on one of the Apple-gossip sites that the
Intel Mac Minis can make use of 8 Gb under Snow Leopard (whereas
previous versions of OS X were limited to 4 Gb).  I have an Intel Mini
as my main machine---it's a year or two old, the original Mini form
factor rather than the new thinner one.  And I'd been putting off
buying the Snow Leopard upgrade, but this, I thought, would make it
worth it.

So I ordered the DVD and two 4 Gb memory cards, and just last night
finished the process of backing up the machine, unplugging it, taking
it down to my workshop, disassembling it to put in the new RAM (I can
take a Mini apart in my sleep now; I've had to do it twice to upgrade
the RAM and hard drive on this one already), and then putting
everything back together.

Wowsers!  What a difference!  The computer feels twice as fast now.  I
don't know how much that's due to the OS upgrade and how much to
doubling the RAM, but I think the latter surely must play a big part.
I think the machine was thrashing around in the swapfile a lot
beforehand and I just didn't notice because the hard drive is so
quiet.  Regardless, I am extremely pleased.

One funny thing about the Snow Leopard install is that you have to
click the "Customize..." button in the installer window if you want to
install the Rosetta layer.  The default is not to install it.  I
thought that was weird.  I know what Rosetta is and that I regularly
use software that requires it to run. (Office 2004, for example, came
out in the pre- Intel Mac era, and I'm used to it and don't want to
upgrade to whatever the current version is.  Same with the version of
Photoshop Elements I use.)  But how many people will fail to check
that box and then wonder why some of their software doesn't work
anymore?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread Mitch Haley

MG wrote:
That may be because I've probably played with cars a bit more then you 
have. It's all just practice. Though I wish I had a lift or even a 
concrete pad to work on. Digging bolts out of the dirt has gotten real 
old by now. Well maybe when the dome is done.


5 yards of concrete ~$500. 20'x20'x4".
Or half that much 'crete and pay a small load delivery charge.
Tie two ropes to an old garage broom and have somebody help you pull it back and 
forth to put a brushed finish on the 'crete.


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Re: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD

2011-03-01 Thread Curt Raymond
I love 116s.

I'd guess you've got 2 new windshield gaskets in your future. Both pools of 
water could be explained by failed gaskets.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:13:47 -0500
From: "Allan Streib" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD
Message-ID: <1298952827.30980.1424847...@webmail.messagingengine.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I sent this earlier but it never came through.  I'm guessing because of the 
attached pic.  So here is a link instead.

http://img.skitch.com/20110301-ce2xaifi25qjprx3pp1ggdmqxi.jpg

This is the one that had the problem with the harmonic balancer.

Next
 problem already identified: driver's floor soaking wet.  I pulled all 
the mats and padding out and there's some rust on the floor pan but no 
perforation.  So I'll hit that with rust converter and some POR-15.  
Would this likely be a clogged drain on the air intake?

Some 
water in the trunk also, but there was a bunch of leaves and dirt all 
around the seal so I think this was causing water to back up and 
overflow into the trunk.  I cleaned that all out; the seal itself seems 
OK.  The rear window seal is not in such good shape, however... quite a 
number of cracks along the bottom.

Fun to have a new project... hoping its something I can get on the road fairly 
quickly.

Allan
--
1983 300D
and now also 1979 300SD


  
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Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off

2011-03-01 Thread Curt Raymond
"How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" had a description and great drawing of the 
technique. In fact there are loads of great drawings in that book which is a 
great read even if you don't have an aircooled VW.


No you can't borrow my copy.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:27:49 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

Congrats!

The tip about being unable to overtorque a 6mm with your thumb over 
the end came from a German at a Deutz Engine Service school.


  
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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread Dieselhead
A good floor jack helps a lot.  You can do one side at a time.  (If 
your Diff mount is ok and you don't plan to replace it.)  Put the 
rear up on jackstands.  Then put the jack under the differential to 
support it as you pull the bolts on one side.  Lower the diff, then 
remove the old subframe mounts.  I used Dawn as lube.  I used the 
weight of the car to help seat the new ones.  Jack up the diff until 
the weight is just off the jack stands.  Put the bolts in and draw 
the bolts up.


That's at least better than replacing the rear links and finding 
that the subframe mounts are pretty much totally wasted.


Guess what I'm doing next weekend?

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread MG
I'm guessing it won't be going down to the local watering hole 
and hoist a few. Have fun. Ha! As if.


Manfred



Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:19:07 -0600
From: Peter Frederick 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

That's at least better than replacing the rear links and finding 
that

the subframe mounts are pretty much totally wasted.

Guess what I'm doing next weekend?

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread MG
That may be because I've probably played with cars a bit more 
then you have. It's all just practice. Though I wish I had a lift 
or even a concrete pad to work on. Digging bolts out of the dirt 
has gotten real old by now. Well maybe when the dome is done.


Manfred



Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:23:05 -0600
From: OK Don 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts


Sounds like a lot of my Saturdays as well - except it would have 
taken me 10

hours --


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Re: [MBZ] Tach 1983 300DT

2011-03-01 Thread MG
Seems that sometimes they are sometimes they aren't. It may 
depend on the company making the bearing. I bought some for an 
old XJ6 a few years back, Timkin I think, and they were separate. 
Also remember buying some for the Jeep one time which were 
separate though this last time just a week ago they were in a 
set. It may be because some people will use the bearing races 
that come in the new brake disks, for machining during 
production, rather then take them out and put in the ones that 
come with the new bearings. I think with new manufacturing 
methods and tolerances the matching is no longer any problem.


Manfred



Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 20:18:33 -0700
From: Craig 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tach 1983 300DT


On Mon, 28 Feb 2011 19:27:28 -0500 MG  
wrote:


> Make sure you get new outer races if the bearings don't come 
with them

> (some do some don't) ...

I thought the outer races were matched to the bearings and thus 
came as a

set. Is this not always the case?


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread Hans Neureiter
I am having second thoughts.
Today I was planning to replace the leaky pitman shaft seal.
I wonder if I should just let it leak.
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD

On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 5:33 PM, MG  wrote:

> Well a couple of days ago I had a great day. I decided to replace the
> alternator belts an my 83 300D. What! You say it doesn't take all day to
> replace two alternator belts? Yeah you may be right, but
>
> It all started out innocently enough. Got the power steering belt off. Got
> the AC belt off. Then couldn't quite get to the bolts on the alternator
> easily enough so I took off the air cleaner and the turbo intake elbow.
>
> So far so good, right? Not.
>
> Found that the rear mount arm on the aircleaner bracket was broken off. Oh
> yeah I remember, that was one of those things I put off a while ago. I
> remember ordering a new bracket and mounts so I went and dug them out of the
> parts boxes. (notice the plural, boxes, as opposed to just the singular,
> box. Why? wait for it)
>
> Took the bracket off, had to loosen the turbo oil supply. Then I remembered
> that I had been wanting to replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket due to
> a leak at the rear cylinders. Well no time like the present since I was
> already here.
>
> Back to the garage to get the exhaust gasket out of the boxes. (you might
> begin to see why, boxes,). Got the gasket, back to work getting the exhaust
> pipe off and the turbo and the intake/exhaust manifold. Great! just about
> ready to get things back together.
>
> OH wait. there is that little leak at the base of the turbo oil drain to
> the block. Well I kind of knew about that for a while too. After all 500
> miles to quart and a lot of oil drips and the block was nice and clean right
> where the drain enters the block. Kind of gives it way.
>
> Back to the boxes. Got the new seals for that little job. Did I say little?
> There has got to be an easier way to get that tube out of the block. Next
> time I will order a new tube. This one looks like it was used as a chew toy
> for a grizzly by the time I got it out. Still it is pretty straight and not
> too scared so put the rubbers on it and put it back in. I realize now that
> the repair manual is quite optimistic. Pull the tube out, put the o-rings on
> the tube, put the big rubber in the hole in the block and then insert the
> tube. Ri...ght. Doesn't work that way. More like fight the tube out and then
> put the o-rings on the tube. Then try and get the big rubber part started on
> the bottom of the tube and over the o-ring there but just barely. (You learn
> that after trying it their way for 20 minutes or so) Then get the big rubber
> started in the hole in the block and tap it down tight around the edge with
> a small wood stick. Then get a big socket and extension and beat the living
> H..l out of the tube to get it down into place, but not too far or you may
> have to pull it back out. I was lucky there, had to beat on it twice more to
> get it down far enough to get the turbo back on. It was sticking out a bit
> high still until after the second time.
>
> Oh did I tell you that I had a turbo from another car which had a shaft
> that didn't wiggle as much as the turbo I took off so I decided to put that
> one on instead. (Remember that) So got the manifolds back on with the turbo
> and the exhaust pipe.
>
> Didn't have a new gasket for the turbo to the exhaust manifold so I had to
> use the old one. Then before I forget it, back to the original job. Loosen
> the bolts and get the belts off and the new ones on to the alternator. That
> done, put the new aircleaner bracket and mounts on and fasten everything
> back together. Get all the other belts back on and finally start the car.
> Yay!!!
>
> Hold on not so fast, 5 yard penalty for excessive celebration. Let the
> engine run a bit at idle to fill the turbo oil supply tube and then rev it a
> couple of times. OY! The nice tight turbo makes a bad whining noise and
> doesn't put out very much boost. Also a lot of exhaust smoke coming out
> under the air cleaner. OH well. Looks like I need to order a turbo or at
> least a rebuild kit as well as a new exhaust to turbo gasket. Then do a lot
> of this fun stuff all over again. Bummer.
>
> So Rusty if you have been following my joy filled day this far how much for
> a rebuilt turbo center chunk or a rebuild kit with upgraded thrust bearing
> plate and a gasket and lock plates for the wastegate cover. Figure I might
> as well take that off and clean it and possibly set the boost a bit higher,
> seeing as how I have to go back in anyway. This is for a Garrett turbo. Oh
> an exhaust manifold to turbo gasket also.
>
> So bottom line, 5 hours and I'm still not really done, but the car is at
> least drivable. Maybe.
>
> Manfred
>
>
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Uns

Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-03-01 Thread MG
Yeah. Sorry about that. I was reading through the digest and 
stopped to send without finishing all the others that were piled 
up behind it.


Manfred




Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 17:59:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Curt Raymond 
To: Diesel List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod


You haven't been following along with the other posts, but based 
on your post I understand why! ;)


A. Theres a ball on the end so you can't just cut it off. I could 
section it I suppose, weld the ball back on.


B. Its an annoying fiddly job to get it in and out.

C. Assuming Rusty can get the correct part its ~$10. Not much of 
my time has to be spent to equal $10.


-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Interresting Tidbit

2011-03-01 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Very interesting! Always nice to know the history.

Walt
On Mar 1, 2011 7:01 AM, "Hans Neureiter"  wrote:
> The origin of the star
>
> DMG now had a successful brand name, but still lacked a characteristic
> trademark. Then Paul and Adolf Daimler – the company founder’s two sons,
and
> now senior executives at DMG – remembered that their father, who had died
in
> March 1900 shortly before his 66th birthday, had once used a star as a
> symbol.
>
> Gottlieb Daimler had been technical director of the Deutz gas engine
factory
> from 1872 until 1881. At the beginning of his employment there, he had
> marked a star above his own house on a picture postcard of Cologne and
> Deutz, and had written to his wife that this star would one day shine over
> his own factory to symbolize prosperity.
>
> The DMG board immediately accepted the proposal and in June 1909, both a
> three-pointed and a four-pointed star were registered as trademarks.
> Although both designs were legally protected, only the three-pointed star
> was used. From 1910 onward, a three-dimensional star adorned the radiator
at
> the front of the car.
>
> The three-pointed star was supposed to symbolize Daimler’s ambition of
> universal motorization – “on land, on water and in the air”. Over the
years,
> various small additions were made. In 1916, the tips were surrounded by a
> circle, in which four small stars and the word Mercedes were integrated,
or
> alternatively the names of the DMG plants at Untertürkheim or
> Berlin-Marienfelde.
>
> In November 1921, DMG applied for legal protection of utility patents for
> new variations on their trademark and lodged with the patent office a
> three-dimensional three-pointed star enclosed in a circle – which included
> the design intended for use on the radiator grille. It became a registered
> trademark in August 1923.
>
>
> --
> Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
> '82 300SD
> ___
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>
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[MBZ] Interresting Tidbit

2011-03-01 Thread Hans Neureiter
The origin of the star

DMG now had a successful brand name, but still lacked a characteristic
trademark. Then Paul and Adolf Daimler – the company founder’s two sons, and
now senior executives at DMG – remembered that their father, who had died in
March 1900 shortly before his 66th birthday, had once used a star as a
symbol.

Gottlieb Daimler had been technical director of the Deutz gas engine factory
from 1872 until 1881. At the beginning of his employment there, he had
marked a star above his own house on a picture postcard of Cologne and
Deutz, and had written to his wife that this star would one day shine over
his own factory to symbolize prosperity.

The DMG board immediately accepted the proposal and in June 1909, both a
three-pointed and a four-pointed star were registered as trademarks.
Although both designs were legally protected, only the three-pointed star
was used. From 1910 onward, a three-dimensional star adorned the radiator at
the front of the car.

The three-pointed star was supposed to symbolize Daimler’s ambition of
universal motorization – “on land, on water and in the air”. Over the years,
various small additions were made. In 1916, the tips were surrounded by a
circle, in which four small stars and the word Mercedes were integrated, or
alternatively the names of the DMG plants at Untertürkheim or
Berlin-Marienfelde.

In November 1921, DMG applied for legal protection of utility patents for
new variations on their trademark and lodged with the patent office a
three-dimensional three-pointed star enclosed in a circle – which included
the design intended for use on the radiator grille. It became a registered
trademark in August 1923.


-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
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Re: [MBZ] Watch your tranny getting done

2011-03-01 Thread Max Dillon
That looks like enormous fun!  Now, how to get myself and the transmission to 
Fellbach?

-Max





From: Hendrik & Fay 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Tue, March 1, 2011 5:23:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Watch your tranny getting done

http://www.mercedes-benz-classic.com/content/classic/mpc/mpc_classic_website/en/mpc_home/mbc/home/spare_parts/aggregate_reconditioning/quality_standard.html


Hendrik
who doesn't need an overhaul...yet

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Re: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD

2011-03-01 Thread Max Dillon
A fine looking car - Congrats!

Looking forward to reading about your harmonic balancer repair.

-Max





From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Mon, February 28, 2011 11:13:47 PM
Subject: [MBZ] I buy a W116 300SD

I sent this earlier but it never came through.  I'm guessing because of the 
attached pic.  So here is a link instead.

http://img.skitch.com/20110301-ce2xaifi25qjprx3pp1ggdmqxi.jpg

This is the one that had the problem with the harmonic balancer.

Next problem already identified: driver's floor soaking wet.  I pulled all the 
mats and padding out and there's some rust on the floor pan but no perforation. 
 
So I'll hit that with rust converter and some POR-15.  Would this likely be a 
clogged drain on the air intake?

Some water in the trunk also, but there was a bunch of leaves and dirt all 
around the seal so I think this was causing water to back up and overflow into 
the trunk.  I cleaned that all out; the seal itself seems OK.  The rear window 
seal is not in such good shape, however... quite a number of cracks along the 
bottom.

Fun to have a new project... hoping its something I can get on the road fairly 
quickly.

Allan
--
1983 300D
and now also 1979 300SD



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Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

2011-03-01 Thread Max Dillon
That was my take as well - I'd have been in the garage until midnight!

-Max





From: OK Don 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Mon, February 28, 2011 10:23:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts

Sounds like a lot of my Saturdays as well - except it would have taken me 10
hours --

On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 5:33 PM, MG  wrote:

> Well a couple of days ago I had a great day. I decided to replace the
> alternator belts an my 83 300D. What! You say it doesn't take all day to
> replace two alternator belts? Yeah you may be right, but
>
> It all started out innocently enough. Got the power steering belt off. Got
> the AC belt off. Then couldn't quite get to the bolts on the alternator
> easily enough so I took off the air cleaner and the turbo intake elbow.
>
> So far so good, right? Not.
>
> Found that the rear mount arm on the aircleaner bracket was broken off. Oh
> yeah I remember, that was one of those things I put off a while ago. I
> remember ordering a new bracket and mounts so I went and dug them out of the
> parts boxes. (notice the plural, boxes, as opposed to just the singular,
> box. Why? wait for it)
>
> Took the bracket off, had to loosen the turbo oil supply. Then I remembered
> that I had been wanting to replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket due to
> a leak at the rear cylinders. Well no time like the present since I was
> already here.
>
> Back to the garage to get the exhaust gasket out of the boxes. (you might
> begin to see why, boxes,). Got the gasket, back to work getting the exhaust
> pipe off and the turbo and the intake/exhaust manifold. Great! just about
> ready to get things back together.
>
> OH wait. there is that little leak at the base of the turbo oil drain to
> the block. Well I kind of knew about that for a while too. After all 500
> miles to quart and a lot of oil drips and the block was nice and clean right
> where the drain enters the block. Kind of gives it way.
>
> Back to the boxes. Got the new seals for that little job. Did I say little?
> There has got to be an easier way to get that tube out of the block. Next
> time I will order a new tube. This one looks like it was used as a chew toy
> for a grizzly by the time I got it out. Still it is pretty straight and not
> too scared so put the rubbers on it and put it back in. I realize now that
> the repair manual is quite optimistic. Pull the tube out, put the o-rings on
> the tube, put the big rubber in the hole in the block and then insert the
> tube. Ri...ght. Doesn't work that way. More like fight the tube out and then
> put the o-rings on the tube. Then try and get the big rubber part started on
> the bottom of the tube and over the o-ring there but just barely. (You learn
> that after trying it their way for 20 minutes or so) Then get the big rubber
> started in the hole in the block and tap it down tight around the edge with
> a small wood stick. Then get a big socket and extension and beat the living
> H..l out of the tube to get it down into place, but not too far or you may
> have to pull it back out. I was lucky there, had to beat on it twice more to
> get it down far enough to get the turbo back on. It was sticking out a bit
> high still until after the second time.
>
> Oh did I tell you that I had a turbo from another car which had a shaft
> that didn't wiggle as much as the turbo I took off so I decided to put that
> one on instead. (Remember that) So got the manifolds back on with the turbo
> and the exhaust pipe.
>
> Didn't have a new gasket for the turbo to the exhaust manifold so I had to
> use the old one. Then before I forget it, back to the original job. Loosen
> the bolts and get the belts off and the new ones on to the alternator. That
> done, put the new aircleaner bracket and mounts on and fasten everything
> back together. Get all the other belts back on and finally start the car.
> Yay!!!
>
> Hold on not so fast, 5 yard penalty for excessive celebration. Let the
> engine run a bit at idle to fill the turbo oil supply tube and then rev it a
> couple of times. OY! The nice tight turbo makes a bad whining noise and
> doesn't put out very much boost. Also a lot of exhaust smoke coming out
> under the air cleaner. OH well. Looks like I need to order a turbo or at
> least a rebuild kit as well as a new exhaust to turbo gasket. Then do a lot
> of this fun stuff all over again. Bummer.
>
> So Rusty if you have been following my joy filled day this far how much for
> a rebuilt turbo center chunk or a rebuild kit with upgraded thrust bearing
> plate and a gasket and lock plates for the wastegate cover. Figure I might
> as well take that off and clean it and possibly set the boost a bit higher,
> seeing as how I have to go back in anyway. This is for a Garrett turbo. Oh
> an exhaust manifold to turbo gasket also.
>
> So bottom line, 5 hours and I'm still not really done, but the car is at
> least drivable. Maybe.
>
> Manfred
>
>
> --
>
OK