Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Gerry Archer
Solar outdoor lights using the new, bright, low wattage l.e.d. arrays are 
widely
available down here in Florida.  Most are reliable and long lasting; the 
only

maintainence cost being a rechargeable battery replacement every couple of
years.  You can spend $100 for a professional grade or much less (see 
link).
Neighbor has had one of the original types at the end of her drive for 15 
years

that I know of and never did anything but replace the batteries.
Your experiences in the lands of ice and snow may vary.

http://www.outdoorsolarstore.com/watchdog-solar-security-light.aspx?gclid=CMWS8ar0uK8CFQSEnQodUC4Khg

http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-82150-Solar-Motion-Light/dp/B000FIWKR8

Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1951 Mercedes Benz 170 S (Milford, Ct.)

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
I went there to take a look and all I heard were crickets.

Looks like the last post was sometime in February.  Are they all dead?

Dan

On Apr 15, 2012, at 9:56 PM, Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com wrote:

 Grant wrote:
 Just a question.  What would be a fair market value for a barn find
 totally complete, Arizona no rust 170 ?
 
 170220.org
 This is a mercedes forum for these cars.
 Join and ask the question at their forum, or read the forums and there
 might be an indication of what value these cars might fetch these
 days.
 Jim Axman, Littleton, CO is one of the founding guys of that forum.
 mao
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Thanks, Gerry.

This looks just like what I need. My only thing is that I don't want the motion 
detection stuff, so I would probably have to go in and disable it and add a 
toggle switch, which I suspect would be no big deal.

Dan

On Apr 16, 2012, at 4:28 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Solar outdoor lights using the new, bright, low wattage l.e.d. arrays are 
 widely
 available down here in Florida.  Most are reliable and long lasting; the only
 maintainence cost being a rechargeable battery replacement every couple of
 years.  You can spend $100 for a professional grade or much less (see link).
 Neighbor has had one of the original types at the end of her drive for 15 
 years
 that I know of and never did anything but replace the batteries.
 Your experiences in the lands of ice and snow may vary.
 
 http://www.outdoorsolarstore.com/watchdog-solar-security-light.aspx?gclid=CMWS8ar0uK8CFQSEnQodUC4Khg
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-82150-Solar-Motion-Light/dp/B000FIWKR8
 
 Gerry 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap fan clutch rebuild

2012-04-16 Thread Jim Cathey

I've been doing some thinking and some reading, and it may be that
this viscous fan clutch is _not_ thermostatic.  It may in fact be only
RPM-sensitive and is intended to couple at idle speeds and decouple at
higher speeds, making the assumption that the car is moving when the
engine revs up.  The fins on its body might be just for dissipating
the heat from the clutch slippage itself.  This would make some sense,
I suppose, but I doubt it's as useful as a more elaborate clutch.
Perhaps that's why we don't see this kind anymore.  Still, it's
probably perfect for _this_ car, given how it's used.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Rich Thomas

Could be, he would have to check and see.

--R

On 4/15/12 8:57 PM, MG wrote:

I don't believe that would be up to code.

I believe that a dedicated circuit to the outside condenser unit of an 
AC system is just three wires. Two conductors to provide the 220v and 
a ground.


If you want to put a sub-panel in place of the AC evaporator 
disconnect and then run the evaporator and other circuits off of that 
you will need to add an extra wire, correctly sized, to carry the 
neutral. In other words you will need two conductors for the 220, a 
neutral and a ground. Four wires in all. Just went through that with 
the well and wanting to do an extra outlet out there at the well.


Mind, on the old house there is just an outlet off the 220 wire to the 
pump. I mentioned that to the inspector and he said I'm glad I didn't 
hear that or I would have to check it and have it changed. Very nice 
guy, he's helped me a lot in my building.


Manfred

Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 18:57:33 -0400
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

You can tap off the AC line if you send it to another outdoor
breaker/subpanel thence to whatever and have at it.  As long as
everything has the proper size wire, breakers (rated at same/less than
the feed), and enclosures you should be OK.

Or buy an outdoor subpanel (rated at whatever your feed to the AC unit
is, probably 40A or 50A?) that has like 4 or 6 breaker spaces in it,
feed it with your AC line where it comes out of the house (and mount the
subpanel near there), then come off that with your AC unit feed and the
outdoor circuit(s) (and use GFCI breakers) and maybe a 220V plug there
somewhere too (there is actually another box you can buy with the 220V
plug and 2-110V 20A plugs in it) should you need to do some welding out
there!  I have something like that right now on my temporary pole.  The
box is not that expensive, and breakers are reasonable.  I presume there
is a breaker at the main panel already to handle the AC unit, that line
can feed your subpanel just fine (my heat pump actually has a second
breaker box off the main feed to it for the heat strips).

I'll take a pic tomorrow of my temp set up and send it to you.

--R


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Re: [MBZ] OT - annoying drivers

2012-04-16 Thread Brian Toscano
Rolling roadblock, aggressive driving.


On Sun, Apr 15, 2012 at 6:10 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 'Reminded today of an annoying type driver:  'Came up behind two lanes (2
 packs) of backed up traffic on US 70W headed toward Raleigh and east of
 I-40; divided four lanes (2 each way); speed limit 55 MPH; each pack
 driving about 53 MPH.  The annoying driver and the one causing the backed
 up traffic in BOTH lanes was the one in front of the inside lane pack
 driving along BESIDE and at same speed as the lead driver in the right
 lane.  This annoyance lasted for nearly 10 miles.  'Saw lotsa frustration
 in front of me, too; one lane and then the other would tend to creep ahead
 of the other for a  bit, and some drivers took this as an indication they
 they may be able to get past and be on their way only to be disappointed
 and begin to fall back with the new pack after they had switched lanes;
 switch lanes again - same deal there.  Packs finally cleared up after
 leader of left lane pack turned left and finally got the Hell outta the
 way.  'Saw lotsa useless brake and brake light wear in front of me.

 Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] OT - annoying drivers

2012-04-16 Thread Rich Thomas
On another aspect, my wife was driving up to Chapel Hill the other day, 
and out in the middle of nowhere on I95 she had a LF blowout on the 
Suburban.  From her description I thought it might have been a puncture 
from something on the road, she was not sure but she thought she heard 
something hit the inner fender, or something indicating an acute 
failure.  Anyway, she called AAA and they put on the spare.  The tires 
were getting to the point they needed to be replaced, so she had that 
done up there, and they put the blown-out tire in a bag for her to bring 
home to show me.  I took one look at it, and right in the middle of the 
tread was perfect 1/4 punched hole, with a circle around it about 1.25 
diameter, looked like a bolt or something had hit it straight on.  She 
probably heard the bolt hit the fender when it got thrown out.   The 
tire was totally destroyed, the sidewalls ripped open most of the way 
around, radially, and a good part of the tread belt was separated from 
both sides.  So it just decompressed almost immediately from that 
puncture and almost totally shredded.


It kinda freaked her out, but she managed to get the truck off the road 
OK and not lose (loose) control or anything.


Teaching her to change a tire is a futile effort, and probably safer 
anyway to have someone come to do it on that road.


$800 for a new set of tires installed...damn those things have got 
expensive.


--R

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[MBZ] '85 300TD smoking upon cold startup

2012-04-16 Thread G. M. Brown

Although I can't currently read the okiebenz list as I'm receiving the digests 
w/o any TOC and it's just a pain to go through but I thought I'd post the 
results of my official procedure with two cans of Diesel Purge - no 
change/effect other than the small fuel filter contained lots of small 
particulates (carbon?).
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC   
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Re: [MBZ] Franken SL?

2012-04-16 Thread clay monroe
I am sure he has no idea what it is and looked on the interwebs for pictures.  
Pretty far stray for a finger to hit the 1 instead of 3


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Apr 15, 2012, at 6:00 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/2947473780.html
 
 Where'd the other two cylinders go?  Maybe they rusted
 off while it was sitting out in the rain.  Not that it
 rains much in Seattle...  Perhaps he meant OM603?
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap fan clutch rebuild

2012-04-16 Thread Craig
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 07:23:30 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

 I've been doing some thinking and some reading, and it may be that
 this viscous fan clutch is _not_ thermostatic.  It may in fact be only
 RPM-sensitive and is intended to couple at idle speeds and decouple at
 higher speeds, making the assumption that the car is moving when the
 engine revs up.  The fins on its body might be just for dissipating
 the heat from the clutch slippage itself.  This would make some sense,
 I suppose, but I doubt it's as useful as a more elaborate clutch.
 Perhaps that's why we don't see this kind anymore.  Still, it's
 probably perfect for _this_ car, given how it's used.

Interesting commentary on fan clutches. RPM-sensitive reminds me about
the old fiberglass-bladed clutch a friend put on a Ford 302 in a Sunbeam
Tiger. The blades were flexible enough that at high RPM they flattened
out and moved less air.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT - annoying drivers

2012-04-16 Thread Max
Glad to hear the only damage was the checkbook!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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[MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Pump Not Delivering

2012-04-16 Thread Scott Ritchey
Just one more thought:  The bolt that holds the fuel pump cam appears to
also hold the cam sprocket on the end of the camshaft.  If this bolt is
loose enough for the fuel pump cam to spin, I'd be concerned about the
sprocket coming loose too.  I suspect your guess is right about the dowel
pin, either it sheared or worked lose because the reman cut corners.  Looks
like you have two options:  continue with the electric pump and hope for the
best or do some difficult engine work.  I guess it depends on the condition
of the rest of the vehicle and how much you depend on it.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Jerry Herrman
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 1:46 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Pump Not Delivering

 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote 
In googling around on this, I found the following advice:

One last thing, even if you are not using the mechanical fuel pump, install
the fuel pump drive anyway. It will keep the cam bolt from loosening up.
Also, the drive pin in the cam sprocket must be 1 5/8 long and made from
chrome moly steel. These are available from Dove.

On this page: http://www.doveengineparts.com/documents/31.html

So it sounds like there is a fuel pump drive (like a cam?) bolted to the
gear on the front end of the cam shaft and maybe this came lose on your
engine.

Here's a photo: http://www.hotrod.com/webonly_january/photo_14.html

If this puppy is running around lose inside the gear vault, I'd be
concerned. Looks like it would be a pig to fix with the engine installed.

Scott, a couple of observations on your submission.
- Your link to  the Hot Rod Magazine article was helpful in seeing what this
part of the engine looks like. The first picture you see shows the rebuilder
with his hand on the fuel pump eccentric.
The block is upside down, so the fuel pump attaches to the (missing) timing
case cover on the left, lower part of the photo. Two other pictures in this
article show the timing cover in place, one picture showing a cover plate
over the hole, and the other picture showing nothing over the hole where the
pump bolts on. These pictures make it easy to visualize the fuel pump
mechanically actuated by means of the fuel pump rocker arm and an eccentric
on the camshaft (Quote from the factory shop manual).
It is easy for me to imagine a shoddy rebuilder having inserted an improper
dowel which comes loose (along with possibly the bolt) and allows the
eccentric to fail to push the rocker arm (this is a rebuilt engine). I'll
bet the dowel in there is/was not chrome moly steel.

Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.comwrote:

 I'm wondering if you can just stick a finger in there through the pump
hole
and see if anything feels loose.

Scott, good suggestion, but I tried that and my hand wouldn't reach that far
back into that small hole.

Jerry
240D
72 Ford F250








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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dave Cavner
Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

Dave
SoCal

'82 240D (3 pedal)
'84 300TD (Euro)
'85 300TD (Cali)

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

 Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
 for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
 below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
 quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
 fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
These cars are fetching some crazy money. Andrew's going to strike it rich if 
he sells his pair!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:50 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote:

Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

Dave
SoCal

'82 240D (3 pedal)
'84 300TD (Euro)
'85 300TD (Cali)

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
Andrew is keeping his cars forever, by which time they will have
greatly appreciated in value...

On 4/16/12, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 These cars are fetching some crazy money. Andrew's going to strike it rich
 if he sells his pair!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:50 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
 http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

 Dave
 SoCal

 '82 240D (3 pedal)
 '84 300TD (Euro)
 '85 300TD (Cali)

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

 Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon
 for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average
 to below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers
 lower quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess
 there's a fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Looks like you're going to have to buy an underpowered 240D with crank windows 
as a daily driver and keep your wagons in a bubble. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 2:31 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

Andrew is keeping his cars forever, by which time they will have
greatly appreciated in value...

On 4/16/12, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
These cars are fetching some crazy money. Andrew's going to strike it rich
if he sells his pair!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:50 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote:

Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

Dave
SoCal

'82 240D (3 pedal)
'84 300TD (Euro)
'85 300TD (Cali)

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average
to below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers
lower quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess
there's a fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?

On 4/16/12, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Looks like you're going to have to buy an underpowered 240D with crank
 windows as a daily driver and keep your wagons in a bubble.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 2:31 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Andrew is keeping his cars forever, by which time they will have
 greatly appreciated in value...

 On 4/16/12, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 These cars are fetching some crazy money. Andrew's going to strike it rich
 if he sells his pair!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:50 PM, Dave Cavner w123wa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
 http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

 Dave
 SoCal

 '82 240D (3 pedal)
 '84 300TD (Euro)
 '85 300TD (Cali)

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

 Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon
 for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average
 to below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers
 lower quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess
 there's a fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell

There may be some residue in there that needs to be cleaned up.

Or, there might be something foreign in there. For example, I put a 
heater core in my old Chevy pickup a number of years back. The rubber 
packing around it was shot and I used a piece of carpet underlay as a 
replacement. It was a bad idea as everytime the heat was on, it smelled 
of rubber. I never did take it apart again to try a different type of 
padding. I sold the truck and the new owner is probably wondering why he 
has that smell when the heat is on.


Randy

On 16/04/2012 1:57 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?





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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Allan Streib
andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com writes:

 I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
 through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
 warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
 compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?

The slightest leak in the heater core will produce a detectable odor,
even if it's not enough to notice any loss of coolant or drips.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
How would I go about diagnosing/fixing? Wouldn't coolant level
eventually go down?

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:28 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com writes:

 I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
 through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
 warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
 compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?

 The slightest leak in the heater core will produce a detectable odor,
 even if it's not enough to notice any loss of coolant or drips.

 Allan

 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell

Do you get any sort of a film on the windshield when the defrost is on?

That is a sign of leakage as well.

You could pressure test the system to see if it holds pressure.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 2:28 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

andrew strasfogelastrasfo...@gmail.com  writes:


I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?

The slightest leak in the heater core will produce a detectable odor,
even if it's not enough to notice any loss of coolant or drips.

Allan




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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
There is no film on the inside of the w/s.  My mechanic said to check
the top of the transmission to look for coolant stains, but above all
he needs to smell the elusive odor to ID it as antifreeze rather than
something more benign..

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:50 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 Do you get any sort of a film on the windshield when the defrost is on?

 That is a sign of leakage as well.

 You could pressure test the system to see if it holds pressure.

 Randy

 On 16/04/2012 2:28 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 andrew strasfogelastrasfo...@gmail.com  writes:

 I stil can't get rid of the sweet toasty burning smell that comes
 through the heater vents once the ACC engages while the engine is
 warm, despite having addressed all oily areas by degreasing the engine
 compartment pretty thoroughly  Any ideas?

 The slightest leak in the heater core will produce a detectable odor,
 even if it's not enough to notice any loss of coolant or drips.

 Allan



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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Who are the MB guys in the Boston area that do sales and restorations?

If it was them I could see it, but for a run of the mill example, that's just 
flat out nutz.

Dan

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.
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Re: [MBZ] OT suburban (was annoying drivers)

2012-04-16 Thread John Reames
Speaking of suburbans, has anyone looked at replacing the stock stanadyne model 
80 sieve (on an 86 6.2L oil burner) with a FM 100 like is on the 6.5L turbos?

It looks like a little wiring harness adaptation (WIF sensor and fuel heater 
lines), bracket fabrication, and placing a water drain valve. 

Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Thanks.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:12, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
wrote:

 On another aspect, my wife was driving up to Chapel Hill the other day, and 
 out in the middle of nowhere on I95 she had a LF blowout on the Suburban.  
 From her description I thought it might have been a puncture from something 
 on the road, she was not sure but she thought she heard something hit the 
 inner fender, or something indicating an acute failure.  Anyway, she called 
 AAA and they put on the spare.  The tires were getting to the point they 
 needed to be replaced, so she had that done up there, and they put the 
 blown-out tire in a bag for her to bring home to show me.  I took one look at 
 it, and right in the middle of the tread was perfect 1/4 punched hole, with 
 a circle around it about 1.25 diameter, looked like a bolt or something had 
 hit it straight on.  She probably heard the bolt hit the fender when it got 
 thrown out.   The tire was totally destroyed, the sidewalls ripped open most 
 of the way around, radially, and a good part of the tread belt was separated 
 from both sides.  So it just decompressed almost immediately from that 
 puncture and almost totally shredded.
 
 It kinda freaked her out, but she managed to get the truck off the road OK 
 and not lose (loose) control or anything.
 
 Teaching her to change a tire is a futile effort, and probably safer anyway 
 to have someone come to do it on that road.
 
 $800 for a new set of tires installed...damn those things have got expensive.
 
 --R
 
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Yeah the paint was Maaco quality on a bad day. The lower quarter surface rust 
will progress to rot within a couple of years and as the rust was between the 
two spot welded layers its progression is inevitable. Honestly I can't imagine 
how that rust could have ever happened in just 40K miles. Being a reputable 
firm though I will not doubt the mileage. While the car had only 40K miles I do 
doubt that it was truly well cared for. 

Hatch and sons and Copley motors both sell quality low mileage cars but do not 
do restoration. Paul Russell and Co restores gullwings, pre- war models  as 
well as Ferraris and ultra rare Bugattis such a the Atlantic coupe for Ralph 
Lauren. Pagodas to him are not worthy enough so you can imagine where a W123 
ranks! So to answer your question I don't know who restores our cars around 
here!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 4:05 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

Who are the MB guys in the Boston area that do sales and restorations?

If it was them I could see it, but for a run of the mill example, that's just 
flat out nutz.

Dan

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell
Unfortunately, one need not abuse a car in order to have it rust. A 
friend looked at a local car that had been in storage for a while. He 
said the interior was like new and the top of the body looked great. 
However, it had been sitting in a garage with a dirt floor for many 
years and I guess it was a damp spot as he said the floor was rotten and 
the underside of the car was very rusty. Unfortunate but the folks who 
had it probably thought they were doing well by keeping it indoors.


As to the price of the wagon, sometimes people will pay a lot more for 
something than it is worth. My younger son is a mechanic at a shop that 
caters to hot rods etc. One fellow has put something in excess of $140K 
into a  mid 60's Malibu. Nice looking car but no one will ever pay him 
anywhere near that so it must be a passion and not an investment.


Randy

On 16/04/2012 3:50 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Yeah the paint was Maaco quality on a bad day. The lower quarter surface rust 
will progress to rot within a couple of years and as the rust was between the 
two spot welded layers its progression is inevitable. Honestly I can't imagine 
how that rust could have ever happened in just 40K miles. Being a reputable 
firm though I will not doubt the mileage. While the car had only 40K miles I do 
doubt that it was truly well cared for.

Hatch and sons and Copley motors both sell quality low mileage cars but do not 
do restoration. Paul Russell and Co restores gullwings, pre- war models  as 
well as Ferraris and ultra rare Bugattis such a the Atlantic coupe for Ralph 
Lauren. Pagodas to him are not worthy enough so you can imagine where a W123 
ranks! So to answer your question I don't know who restores our cars around 
here!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 4:05 PM, Dan Penofflwb...@yahoo.com  wrote:

Who are the MB guys in the Boston area that do sales and restorations?

If it was them I could see it, but for a run of the mill example, that's just 
flat out nutz.

Dan

Dimitri Seretakisdsereta...@yahoo.com  wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.
___




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[MBZ] How do you like the dash overlay?

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p294/oldsub86/Mercedeswoodendash.jpg

This is advertised locally.
Car does not look too bad in the photos but wow, what a dash.
Would not want to be in an accident.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off 
your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below 
average paint job!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:09 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

Unfortunately, one need not abuse a car in order to have it rust. A friend 
looked at a local car that had been in storage for a while. He said the 
interior was like new and the top of the body looked great. However, it had 
been sitting in a garage with a dirt floor for many years and I guess it was a 
damp spot as he said the floor was rotten and the underside of the car was very 
rusty. Unfortunate but the folks who had it probably thought they were doing 
well by keeping it indoors.

As to the price of the wagon, sometimes people will pay a lot more for 
something than it is worth. My younger son is a mechanic at a shop that caters 
to hot rods etc. One fellow has put something in excess of $140K into a  mid 
60's Malibu. Nice looking car but no one will ever pay him anywhere near that 
so it must be a passion and not an investment.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 3:50 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
Yeah the paint was Maaco quality on a bad day. The lower quarter surface rust 
will progress to rot within a couple of years and as the rust was between the 
two spot welded layers its progression is inevitable. Honestly I can't imagine 
how that rust could have ever happened in just 40K miles. Being a reputable 
firm though I will not doubt the mileage. While the car had only 40K miles I do 
doubt that it was truly well cared for.

Hatch and sons and Copley motors both sell quality low mileage cars but do not 
do restoration. Paul Russell and Co restores gullwings, pre- war models  as 
well as Ferraris and ultra rare Bugattis such a the Atlantic coupe for Ralph 
Lauren. Pagodas to him are not worthy enough so you can imagine where a W123 
ranks! So to answer your question I don't know who restores our cars around 
here!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 4:05 PM, Dan Penofflwb...@yahoo.com  wrote:

Who are the MB guys in the Boston area that do sales and restorations?

If it was them I could see it, but for a run of the mill example, that's just 
flat out nutz.

Dan

Dimitri Seretakisdsereta...@yahoo.com  wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.
___



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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell
When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise 
the definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is 
difficult to prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake 
in the fall and it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring 
tends to be damp when the snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same 
garage - table saw and jointer etc - will need to have the rust removed 
before I start to use them. I have tried different sorts of treatments 
to the tops but it is just damp in there.


I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only 
thing I can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think 
that ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is 
warmer and moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result 
of that. We get some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the 
same problem in my garage at home in the city for a few days this 
spring. It looked like someone had sprayed the floor with a hose. There 
were literally puddles. Essentially because it was very damp out and the 
inside of the garage was much colder than the outdoor temperature. All 
was well until we opened the big door and let the warmer moist air into 
the garage.


If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought 
is that one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be 
difficult when there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor 
setup it would be great but I cannot see myself installing that in the 
garage anytime soon.


Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off your car. 
It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below average paint 
job!

Sent from my iPhone





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Re: [MBZ] How do you like the dash overlay?

2012-04-16 Thread Craig
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:15:15 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 Would not want to be in an accident.

I agree.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of heating the 
garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you could run some de- 
humidifiers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the 
definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to 
prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall and it 
stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring tends to be damp when the 
snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same garage - table saw and jointer etc - 
will need to have the rust removed before I start to use them. I have tried 
different sorts of treatments to the tops but it is just damp in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only thing I 
can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think that 
ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is warmer and 
moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result of that. We get 
some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the same problem in my 
garage at home in the city for a few days this spring. It looked like someone 
had sprayed the floor with a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially 
because it was very damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder than 
the outdoor temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and let the 
warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought is that 
one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be difficult when 
there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor setup it would be great 
but I cannot see myself installing that in the garage anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off 
your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below 
average paint job!

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen) 
and as for your tools, Cosmoline.  Not a lot you can do for the airborne 
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without encapsulating them in 
something, but as for the car I would put a big honking piece of plastic down 
between it and the floor.  It won't eliminate the moisture but it will prevent 
it from condensing on the bottom of the car.

I could write up a long term storage procedure like I did on occasion for 
industrial engines, but I suspect that's far beyond what you're willing to do 
for the car

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the 
 definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to 
 prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall and 
 it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring tends to be damp 
 when the snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same garage - table saw and 
 jointer etc - will need to have the rust removed before I start to use them. 
 I have tried different sorts of treatments to the tops but it is just damp in 
 there.
 
 I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only thing I 
 can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think that 
 ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is warmer 
 and moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result of that. We 
 get some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the same problem in my 
 garage at home in the city for a few days this spring. It looked like someone 
 had sprayed the floor with a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially 
 because it was very damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder 
 than the outdoor temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and 
 let the warmer moist air into the garage.
 
 If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought is 
 that one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be difficult 
 when there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor setup it would 
 be great but I cannot see myself installing that in the garage anytime soon.
 
 Randy
 
 On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off 
 your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below 
 average paint job!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Greg Fiorentino
How about a dehumidifier with a hose draining it to the outside?  How about
spraying the tools with something like Boeshield T-9?

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Randy Bennell
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 2:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the
definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to
prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall and
it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring tends to be damp
when the snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same garage - table saw and
jointer etc - will need to have the rust removed before I start to use them.
I have tried different sorts of treatments to the tops but it is just damp
in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only thing
I can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think that
ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is warmer
and moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result of that. We
get some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the same problem in
my garage at home in the city for a few days this spring. It looked like
someone had sprayed the floor with a hose. There were literally puddles.
Essentially because it was very damp out and the inside of the garage was
much colder than the outdoor temperature. All was well until we opened the
big door and let the warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought is
that one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be
difficult when there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor setup
it would be great but I cannot see myself installing that in the garage
anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt
off your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a
below average paint job!

 Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Max
Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of
heating the garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you
could run some de- humidifiers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise
the definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is
difficult to prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the
lake in the fall and it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the
spring tends to be damp when the snow melts etc. My shop tools in the
same garage - table saw and jointer etc - will need to have the rust
removed before I start to use them. I have tried different sorts of
treatments to the tops but it is just damp in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only
thing I can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't
think that ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air
outside is warmer and moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats
as a result of that. We get some of that in the summer when it is
humid. I had the same problem in my garage at home in the city for a
few days this spring. It looked like someone had sprayed the floor with
a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially because it was very
damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder than the outdoor
temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and let the
warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought
is that one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be
difficult when there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor
setup it would be great but I cannot see myself installing that in the
garage anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt
off your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to
a below average paint job!

Sent from my iPhone




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I'll second the de-humidifier idea, will benefit both car and tools but will 
cost electricity and you'll probably need to plumb a drain, or make frequent 
visits.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Electricity cost will not be cheap. You could drill a hole to the outside of 
the garage and attach a hose to the dehumidifier which can be routed through 
the hole.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:49 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of
heating the garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you
could run some de- humidifiers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise
the definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is
difficult to prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the
lake in the fall and it stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the
spring tends to be damp when the snow melts etc. My shop tools in the
same garage - table saw and jointer etc - will need to have the rust
removed before I start to use them. I have tried different sorts of
treatments to the tops but it is just damp in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only
thing I can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't
think that ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air
outside is warmer and moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats
as a result of that. We get some of that in the summer when it is
humid. I had the same problem in my garage at home in the city for a
few days this spring. It looked like someone had sprayed the floor with
a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially because it was very
damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder than the outdoor
temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and let the
warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought
is that one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be
difficult when there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor
setup it would be great but I cannot see myself installing that in the
garage anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt
off your car. It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to
a below average paint job!

Sent from my iPhone




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I'll second the de-humidifier idea, will benefit both car and tools but will 
cost electricity and you'll probably need to plumb a drain, or make frequent 
visits.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell
I have tried to avoid using oily things as I would have to clean them in 
the spring before I started cutting wood again. I have used some of the 
commercial spray cans touted for the purpose but they are not doing the 
job. Cleaners and conditioners sort of things. They work fine in my 
basement at home but not in the garage. Maybe even paste wax would be 
sufficient. If I just wiped on a thick coat in the fall and did not buff 
it out, that might work.


Dehumidifiers don't work well at low temperatures. I wonder about the 
salt crystal stuff but it is so corrosive that it might cause its own 
problems. I also do wonder if more ventilation would help. It might make 
things worse temporarily but if one blew enough of the outside air 
inside, then things should equalize.


Randy


On 16/04/2012 4:38 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Give Fluid Film a try for the table saw deck and jointer. Short of heating the 
garage I'm not sure how to remove the moisture- well you could run some de- 
humidifiers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the 
definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to 
prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall and it 
stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring tends to be damp when the 
snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same garage - table saw and jointer etc - 
will need to have the rust removed before I start to use them. I have tried 
different sorts of treatments to the tops but it is just damp in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only thing I 
can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think that 
ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is warmer and 
moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result of that. We get 
some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the same problem in my 
garage at home in the city for a few days this spring. It looked like someone 
had sprayed the floor with a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially 
because it was very damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder than 
the outdoor temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and let the 
warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought is that 
one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be difficult when 
there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor setup it would be great 
but I cannot see myself installing that in the garage anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off your car. 
It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below average paint 
job!

Sent from my iPhone








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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell

The poly might be worth a try.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen) 
and as for your tools, Cosmoline.  Not a lot you can do for the airborne 
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without encapsulating them in 
something, but as for the car I would put a big honking piece of plastic down 
between it and the floor.  It won't eliminate the moisture but it will prevent 
it from condensing on the bottom of the car.

I could write up a long term storage procedure like I did on occasion for 
industrial engines, but I suspect that's far beyond what you're willing to do 
for the car

Dan






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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread John Reames
What about a commercial fixture; either HPS or MH, there should be a multitap 
ballast that will eat 120/208/240/277...

Then there's no issue feeding it off the condensing unit so long as you have 
separate fusing and use a PROPER 2 pole switch (IIRC the front part of the body 
will be green, and it will carry a 277V rating.)

Carry both the red and the black to the switch (one on each pole) and then on 
to the ballast.

Not cheap but at least halfway legit

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 15, 2012, at 20:57, MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I don't believe that would be up to code.
 
 I believe that a dedicated circuit to the outside condenser unit of an AC 
 system is just three wires. Two conductors to provide the 220v and a ground.
 
 If you want to put a sub-panel in place of the AC evaporator disconnect and 
 then run the evaporator and other circuits off of that you will need to add 
 an extra wire, correctly sized, to carry the neutral. In other words you will 
 need two conductors for the 220, a neutral and a ground. Four wires in all. 
 Just went through that with the well and wanting to do an extra outlet out 
 there at the well.
 
 Mind, on the old house there is just an outlet off the 220 wire to the pump. 
 I mentioned that to the inspector and he said I'm glad I didn't hear that or 
 I would have to check it and have it changed. Very nice guy, he's helped me 
 a lot in my building.
 
 Manfred
 
 Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 18:57:33 -0400
 From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
 
 You can tap off the AC line if you send it to another outdoor
 breaker/subpanel thence to whatever and have at it.  As long as
 everything has the proper size wire, breakers (rated at same/less than
 the feed), and enclosures you should be OK.
 
 Or buy an outdoor subpanel (rated at whatever your feed to the AC unit
 is, probably 40A or 50A?) that has like 4 or 6 breaker spaces in it,
 feed it with your AC line where it comes out of the house (and mount the
 subpanel near there), then come off that with your AC unit feed and the
 outdoor circuit(s) (and use GFCI breakers) and maybe a 220V plug there
 somewhere too (there is actually another box you can buy with the 220V
 plug and 2-110V 20A plugs in it) should you need to do some welding out
 there!  I have something like that right now on my temporary pole.  The
 box is not that expensive, and breakers are reasonable.  I presume there
 is a breaker at the main panel already to handle the AC unit, that line
 can feed your subpanel just fine (my heat pump actually has a second
 breaker box off the main feed to it for the heat strips).
 
 I'll take a pic tomorrow of my temp set up and send it to you.
 
 --R
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Or cover your floor with wooden planks ?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

The poly might be worth a try.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen) 
and as for your tools, Cosmoline.  Not a lot you can do for the airborne 
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without encapsulating them in 
something, but as for the car I would put a big honking piece of plastic down 
between it and the floor.  It won't eliminate the moisture but it will prevent 
it from condensing on the bottom of the car.

I could write up a long term storage procedure like I did on occasion for 
industrial engines, but I suspect that's far beyond what you're willing to do 
for the car

Dan





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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Max
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with 
an epoxy sealant would help?

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread John Reames
I've an old 220h Coleman 2 mantle that now has a kerosene fuel tube and 
generator. You probably don't need to replace the fuel tube and you can make 
the gen by putting the jet and cleaning needle from a 242 gen into a 220 gen 
body.

Add a cup for alcohol and you are good to go.
(kero doesn't go bad in storage and everything that I have is either diesel or 
premix).

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture Coleman ones 
(that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the light (and more 
likely 1/2...)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 15, 2012, at 21:04, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 It still seems like a pretty minor problem. Get a Coleman lantern, how much 
 white gas or propane could you buy for the price of running lights?
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 18:32:24 -0400
 From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
 Message-ID: f421b522-6f88-4c19-83db-7ad07b2b6...@yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 That's an oversimplification. We go out into the back yard for various 
 reasons at night, the most common being to take the dog out.  If we wanted to 
 do anything out there, such as entertain after dark, there is no way to see 
 anything due to the lack of light.
 
 That's why I am looking for a floodlight or some other means of lighting the 
 area.  The dog probably has better night vision than I do
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Apr 15, 2012, at 6:22 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Am I the only on that thinks this all is ridiculous for taking the dog out?
 
 Buy a Mag light, hanging it on a peg by the door, problem solved...
 
 -Curt
 
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Plastic film is cheap and easily removed each season.  Painting an existing 
concrete floor and getting it to stick is a major undertaking, and I have yet 
to do it successfully on two occasions.

All I am thinking about is having a vapor barrier between the floor and the car 
- that should be adequate enough to prevent the bottom of the car having 
condensation form on it, I would think.

Sort of like a vapor barrier in a crawl space

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:13 PM, Max wrote:

 To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with 
 an epoxy sealant would help?
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Craig
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:13:26 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the
 concrete with an epoxy sealant would help?

Both the plastic film and painting the concrete with an epoxy sealant
will help reduce/stop the transmission of sub-grade moisture into the
garage.

Both the plastic film and painting the concrete with an epoxy sealant
will NOT stop airborne moisture from condensing.

Insulating the concrete will help reduce/stop condensation. A wood deck
could help with this, but it will need to be solid to keep the moisture
away from the cold concrete, else the bottom side of the wood deck will
be saturated with the condensation and will rot (unless it's treated).
And a lot of moisture underneath the wood would likely be wicked up into
the garage air.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Randy Bennell
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I 
think it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the 
air is warmer and humid.


Randy

On 16/04/2012 5:13 PM, Max wrote:

To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with 
an epoxy sealant would help?




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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Well then put a vapor barrier over the concrete and then cover with warm wood. 
Now you are protected from the top and bottom!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it 
condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer and 
humid.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 5:13 PM, Max wrote:
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete with 
an epoxy sealant would help?



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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread clay monroe
It seeps, because concrete cracks and water table rises.  If you are below 
grade, it will seep in the walls and live on the floor.  Only way to properly 
deal with this, is to heat the space and keep a dehumidifier going in the wet 
months.


On Apr 16, 2012, at 3:33 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it 
 condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer 
 and humid.
 
 Randy
 
 On 16/04/2012 5:13 PM, Max wrote:
 To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete 
 with an epoxy sealant would help?
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I bought a 87 300TD with a #22 head today for $700.  A much better 
deal.


On 4/16/2012 1:01 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

These cars are fetching some crazy money. Andrew's going to strike it rich if 
he sells his pair!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:50 PM, Dave Cavnerw123wa...@gmail.com  wrote:

Makes this one seem like a bit of a bargain:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2929674404.html

Dave
SoCal

'82 240D (3 pedal)
'84 300TD (Euro)
'85 300TD (Cali)

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Copley motors in MA sold a dark blue 40,000 mile w123 300TD non- turbo wagon 
for $30,000. The car had a nice clean interior but a surprisingly average  to 
below average repaint along with some dings and surface rust on drivers lower 
quarter. For that price the car should be in show condition. Guess there's a 
fool out there for every car.

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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I have been thinking of this.  I do not have indoor storage for 
cars, so the ones I am not driving, or the projects to be done 
maybe I should park them over a tarp?  Would that help at all?


On 4/16/2012 4:40 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

I would say to put a vapor barrier on the floor (just a big sheet of Visqueen) 
and as for your tools, Cosmoline.  Not a lot you can do for the airborne 
moisture as far as the machined surfaces go without encapsulating them in 
something, but as for the car I would put a big honking piece of plastic down 
between it and the floor.  It won't eliminate the moisture but it will prevent 
it from condensing on the bottom of the car.

I could write up a long term storage procedure like I did on occasion for 
industrial engines, but I suspect that's far beyond what you're willing to do 
for the car

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 5:26 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:


When I was typing that, I thought to myself, someone is going to raise the 
definition of abuse. I guess I cannot argue but sometimes it is difficult to 
prevent. We leave my mother's car in the garage at the lake in the fall and it 
stays inside until mid May. Unfortunately, the spring tends to be damp when the 
snow melts etc. My shop tools in the same garage - table saw and jointer etc - 
will need to have the rust removed before I start to use them. I have tried 
different sorts of treatments to the tops but it is just damp in there.

I would like to find a way to prevent the dampness but about the only thing I 
can think of that would work, would be to heat it. I don't think that 
ventilating would help much. The problem is that the air outside is warmer and 
moist and the cold concrete floor inside sweats as a result of that. We get 
some of that in the summer when it is humid. I had the same problem in my 
garage at home in the city for a few days this spring. It looked like someone 
had sprayed the floor with a hose. There were literally puddles. Essentially 
because it was very damp out and the inside of the garage was much colder than 
the outdoor temperature. All was well until we opened the big door and let the 
warmer moist air into the garage.

If anyone has a solution, I sure would like to hear it. My only thought is that 
one would need to warm up the concrete floor and that woudl be difficult when 
there is frost in the ground. If I had the heated floor setup it would be great 
but I cannot see myself installing that in the garage anytime soon.

Randy

On 16/04/2012 4:18 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

True but improper storage is a kind of abuse as is not washing the salt off your car. 
It's also abusive to treat your low mileage survivor to a below average paint 
job!

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Dave Cavner
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it 
 condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer 
 and humid.
 
 Randy

Moisture definitely migrates upward through slabs. The floor covering industry 
has used this test to quantify the amount for decades:
http://www.vaportest.com/Webpages/calcium_chloride_test.htm

Current thinking is rigid insulation before the pour is the best method to 
eliminate the issue. The amount of insulation depends on your climate zone. 
Current best practices outlined here:
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy/ 

Lots of good info on that site regarding moisture content in dwellings - and 
how to solve the problem. Overkill for most retrofits.

My favorite annecdotal quote is an off-topic post from  a wood  pellet stove 
forum:
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75919/P0/

  ...Somebody on here was advising under-slab insulation even for an unheated 
garage, which sounded like a pretty good idea.

Reply from a guy in SW Maine 
I have no heated slabs of the 5 on my property. I have styrofoam under 
4-and-a-half of them.  Guess where it's dark and damp in muggy or rainy 
weather. I can stack bags of grain on the slab in my rodent-proof room 
(insulated but not heated) and they never get mildewed against the floor. 
Whoever said it, I can agree with conviction based on experience.

Dave
SoCal



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[MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Craig
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

 Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
 Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
 light (and more likely 1/2...)

Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Peter Frederick
No, it's an alpha emitter, I think, (radioactive) and the dust from a  
broken mantle is breathable, leading to a risk of lung cancer.


Peter

On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Craig wrote:


On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:


Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of  
the

light (and more likely 1/2...)


Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Or because we'll get irradiated while using our lanterns.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:18 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
light (and more likely 1/2...)

Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 300D shutoff

2012-04-16 Thread Tim C
On Apr 15, 2012 11:49 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:11:44 -0400 Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

  I finally replaced the shutoff for the 300D this afternoon.

 I presume this is a OM617 based 300D.

Good catch, yes.  Thanks. :)

  Can disconnected vacuum cause no start, too?

 No.

The line is connected anyway, in fact everything looks plugged up
correctly.  Never replaced the driver foot well cover and haven't really
regretted it... ;)

  I took the shutoff out again, and it doesn't seem to be stuck - the
  pull bar is sitting well past what it's pulling, and the stop lever
  makes it skip a touch if I pull the lever back, so I think that's
  right.

 What happens when you suck on the vacuum line to the shutoff? Does the
 lever on the side of the injection pump move down? That's what should
 happen before you try to start the engine.

I didn't have my mityvac out this morning, but sucking against the tube I
was able to feel the click against the lever.  I probably have the mityvac
in the other car but I didn't want to spend all my time looking for it.

  Thanks for any tips,

 If you don't get the shutoff connected properly, I understand the engine
 can run away and you won't be able to make it stop.

Thanks for that, I grabbed some plastic bags just in case.  Alas still no
start this morning.

I am starting to wonder if it is just glow, but the engine doesn't even
stumble - I've always been able to make it catch without draining the
battery even if I completely neglect glow, but I can't think that anything
else would be so sudden.

I guess the IP could have given up the ghost, but it seems to take in fuel
if I break the line at the filter.  Or maybe my battery decided to give it
up?  Though rotation speed sounds reasonable.

Compression, fuel, air, exhaust, right?  Figure I'll work on it tomorrow
until the rain starts, probably start cracking injector lines...

Thanks,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Michael Canfield
Dan,
  Do you know if this is still available?

Thanks, Mike
On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From one of my Mac lists:


 PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.

 Specifications:
 PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
 80GB Hard Drive
 512 MB RAM
 Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
 Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
 Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
 Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
 65 W Power Adapter


 $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.

 Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the owner.
  I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials, too.
  That's the mark of a serious fanbois.

 MacDann
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Curt Raymond
I made one last summer, its okay but I need to do like yours and swap out the 
fuel/air tube for a straight shot fuel pickup. Mine pulses like a disco light. 
I think the increased viscosity of kero is to blame.

The H and later 220s are supposedly better for the kero conversion because the 
flying saucer mixing chamber has more space and thus the lanterns make less 
smell. I dunno if thats true or not, I did my conversion on an F, I've got a J 
I should try...

Up until recently I could buy easily rebuildable lanterns for $5 each all day 
long. Theres more collectors now so I might have to go as high as $10. Usually 
I can get one going without parts, worst case its an $8 generator.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
Message-ID: f621b827-f2bb-4149-87f0-334135624...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

I've an old 220h Coleman 2 mantle that now has a kerosene fuel tube and 
generator. You probably don't need to replace the fuel tube and you can make 
the gen by putting the jet and cleaning needle from a 242 gen into a 220 gen 
body.

Add a cup for alcohol and you are good to go.
(kero doesn't go bad in storage and everything that I have is either diesel or 
premix).

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture Coleman ones 
(that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the light (and more 
likely 1/2...)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 15, 2012, at 21:04, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 It still seems like a pretty minor problem. Get a Coleman lantern, how much 
 white gas or propane could you buy for the price of running lights?
 
 -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Curt Raymond
BTW get Peerless mantles from Oldcolemanparts.com, you'll want 2C-HG for your 
220.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRditi7AQk

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
Message-ID: f621b827-f2bb-4149-87f0-334135624...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

I've an old 220h Coleman 2 mantle that now has a kerosene fuel tube and 
generator. You probably don't need to replace the fuel tube and you can make 
the gen by putting the jet and cleaning needle from a 242 gen into a 220 gen 
body.

Add a cup for alcohol and you are good to go.
(kero doesn't go bad in storage and everything that I have is either diesel or 
premix).

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture Coleman ones 
(that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the light (and more 
likely 1/2...)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread WILTON
If there was no vapor barrier laid beneath the concrete before it was 
poured, you can expect a LOT of moisture to rise through it because of the 
differences in vapor pressure - temperature and humidity - in effect, a big 
natural pump sucking water vapor through the concrete.


Without a vapor barrier beneath the concrete, it is very hard to SEAL the 
top surface of the concrete with a paint or epoxy - vapor still comes up 
through the concrete and collects in pockets/bubbles between the top surface 
of the concrete and the paint/epoxy, which then spalls off.


Moisture in the warm air from outside does, indeed, condense on the cold 
concrete, but a LOT of moisture comes up through the concrete, too, and 
then, of  course, also condenses on the surface in addition to increasing 
relative humidity in the building.


Improve ventilation in the building could help.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars


I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think 
it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is 
warmer and humid.


Randy

On 16/04/2012 5:13 PM, Max wrote:
To follow up on the plastic film idea, I wonder if painting the concrete 
with an epoxy sealant would help?





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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Don't think so but I'll check.

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:44 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

 Dan,
  Do you know if this is still available?
 
 Thanks, Mike
 On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 From one of my Mac lists:
 
 
 PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.
 
 Specifications:
 PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
 80GB Hard Drive
 512 MB RAM
 Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
 Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
 Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
 Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
 65 W Power Adapter
 
 
 $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.
 
 Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the owner.
 I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials, too.
 That's the mark of a serious fanbois.
 
 MacDann
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Funny the guy doing the video is named Curt. 

So you're into lanterns. Does that mean you're into beer 'n campfires as well? 
Cuz I am!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

BTW get Peerless mantles from Oldcolemanparts.com, you'll want 2C-HG for your 
220.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRditi7AQk

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
Message-ID: f621b827-f2bb-4149-87f0-334135624...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

I've an old 220h Coleman 2 mantle that now has a kerosene fuel tube and 
generator. You probably don't need to replace the fuel tube and you can make 
the gen by putting the jet and cleaning needle from a 242 gen into a 220 gen 
body.

Add a cup for alcohol and you are good to go.
(kero doesn't go bad in storage and everything that I have is either diesel or 
premix).

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture Coleman ones 
(that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the light (and more 
likely 1/2...)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

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Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars

2012-04-16 Thread Mountain Man
Randy wrote:
 I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think
 it condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is
 warmer and humid.

My son stored his motorcycle inside the outbuilding next door over the
winter.  He put it in a bike bag that was waterproof and contained a
cache of dessicant.  That arrangement kept everything nice and dry.
Perhaps the company that makes that makes these for cars?  Or
equipment?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Curt Raymond
Doubt it, more likely because the sheeple are worried about the atom.

The amount of thorium on any one mantle is pretty minimal but I bet the 
regulation of the stuff is pretty aggravating.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:18:10 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
Message-ID: 20120416171810.edb76137.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

 Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
 Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
 light (and more likely 1/2...)

Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantles

2012-04-16 Thread Curt Raymond
Except that alpha particles can't penetrate your skin...

The risk is really from breathing the stuff where it can get into your lungs 
and soft tissues.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:30:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
Message-ID:
1334619019.26189.yext-apple-iph...@web113209.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Or because we'll get irradiated while using our lanterns.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:18 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
light (and more likely 1/2...)

Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Brian Toscano
The problem with these portable solutions is that Curt was also looking for
something he could turn on for entertainment in the back yard.


On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 Funny the guy doing the video is named Curt.

 So you're into lanterns. Does that mean you're into beer 'n campfires as
 well? Cuz I am!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 BTW get Peerless mantles from Oldcolemanparts.com, you'll want 2C-HG for
 your 220.
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRditi7AQk

 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400
 From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
 Message-ID: f621b827-f2bb-4149-87f0-334135624...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

 I've an old 220h Coleman 2 mantle that now has a kerosene fuel tube and
 generator. You probably don't need to replace the fuel tube and you can
 make the gen by putting the jet and cleaning needle from a 242 gen into a
 220 gen body.

 Add a cup for alcohol and you are good to go.
 (kero doesn't go bad in storage and everything that I have is either
 diesel or premix).

 Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture Coleman
 ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the light (and
 more likely 1/2...)

 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Guess I better ditch the glow in the dark watch face

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 Doubt it, more likely because the sheeple are worried about the atom.
 
 The amount of thorium on any one mantle is pretty minimal but I bet the 
 regulation of the stuff is pretty aggravating.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:18:10 -0600
 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
 Message-ID: 20120416171810.edb76137.diese...@pisquared.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
 
 On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 
 Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
 Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
 light (and more likely 1/2...)
 
 Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
 they might be liable if it's stolen from them?
 
 
 Craig
 
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I remember learning that way back the factory workers who painted the glow in 
the dark watch and clock faces would lick the brushes to give them a sharp 
point. Many apparently died of cancer, probably some form of head and neck or 
esophageal ca. But yes if thorium emits just alpha particles then there is 
little risk unless we're sniffing or licking the mantles. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:38 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

Guess I better ditch the glow in the dark watch face

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Doubt it, more likely because the sheeple are worried about the atom.

The amount of thorium on any one mantle is pretty minimal but I bet the 
regulation of the stuff is pretty aggravating.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:18:10 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
Message-ID: 20120416171810.edb76137.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:

Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
light (and more likely 1/2...)

Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] tire changing

2012-04-16 Thread RELNGSON
 ...Teaching her to change a tire is a futile effort, and probably safer
 anyway to have someone come to do it on that road...
 
And what is the weight of the tire/wheel?

RLE
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Michael Canfield
Google radium girls.

Mike
On Apr 16, 2012 8:50 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I remember learning that way back the factory workers who painted the glow
 in the dark watch and clock faces would lick the brushes to give them a
 sharp point. Many apparently died of cancer, probably some form of head and
 neck or esophageal ca. But yes if thorium emits just alpha particles then
 there is little risk unless we're sniffing or licking the mantles.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:38 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Guess I better ditch the glow in the dark watch face

 Dan


 On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 Doubt it, more likely because the sheeple are worried about the atom.

 The amount of thorium on any one mantle is pretty minimal but I bet the
 regulation of the stuff is pretty aggravating.

 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:18:10 -0600
 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
 Message-ID: 20120416171810.edb76137.diese...@pisquared.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
 wrote:

 Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
 Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3 of the
 light (and more likely 1/2...)

 Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb and
 they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


 Craig

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] OT - annoying drivers

2012-04-16 Thread Dieselhead

Self-centered,   me! me! Me!   egomaniac   self-righteous



Rolling roadblock, aggressive driving.



 Take your pick.   The illness has spread from Kollyfonya to the rest 
of the country.


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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap fan clutch rebuild

2012-04-16 Thread OK Don
That's the same fan I used on the 215 Olds engine in the MGA --

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:35 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:



 Interesting commentary on fan clutches. RPM-sensitive reminds me about
 the old fiberglass-bladed clutch a friend put on a Ford 302 in a Sunbeam
 Tiger. The blades were flexible enough that at high RPM they flattened
 out and moved less air.


 Craig





-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
That one is gone, but this just came up this morning:

I have an overall good - great condition 15 PowerBook G4 that has the 1.67Ghz 
processor and 1GB of RAM - has a 300GB HDD, AirPort, BlueTooth, and a 
SuperDrive. Runs GREAT except for when it randomly falls asleep (the narcolepsy 
issue, rarely happens overall tho)

Asking $200 shipped for it, open to offers and trades (Apple mice and 
keyboards, etc.)


This is actually a better machine - it's the last production model and has the 
faster processor.  I would not fret about the narcolepsy issue, as it's more 
of a nuisance when/if it occurs.

Let me know if you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the seller. 
Here are some pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6414245...7629831003771/

The same seller also has this:

For sale is an excellent condition PowerMac G5 - it has dual 2.0 processors and 
is the earlier, non-problematic model that doesn't just die randomly. It can 
take up to 8GB of RAM and has a 150GB HDD.

It has AirPort Extreme installed - the legitimate Apple card, no antenna, but I 
get nearly FULL signal strength without the antenna with my wireless router 
being like 6-8 feet away, so I mean if you have a set that it would work like 
that, you shouldn't even need to purchase one anyways.

Video card is 9600 Pro 64MB - has combo drive - NOT super drive as far as I can 
tell. I'm asking $200 shipped

I was seriously considering it, but the disposable income fund is a little low 
this month.

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:44 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

 Dan,
  Do you know if this is still available?
 
 Thanks, Mike
 On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 From one of my Mac lists:
 
 
 PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.
 
 Specifications:
 PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
 80GB Hard Drive
 512 MB RAM
 Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
 Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
 Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
 Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
 65 W Power Adapter
 
 
 $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.
 
 Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the owner.
 I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials, too.
 That's the mark of a serious fanbois.
 
 MacDann
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread OK Don
DId/could you drive it home?

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I bought a 87 300TD with a #22 head today for $700.  A much better deal.




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Brian Toscano
What is the narcolepsy issue?  One of my Mac Book falls asleep when
occasionally, but that usually takes an active phone call with my cell
phone on the laptop.


On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 8:04 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 That one is gone, but this just came up this morning:

 I have an overall good - great condition 15 PowerBook G4 that has the
 1.67Ghz processor and 1GB of RAM - has a 300GB HDD, AirPort, BlueTooth, and
 a SuperDrive. Runs GREAT except for when it randomly falls asleep (the
 narcolepsy issue, rarely happens overall tho)

 Asking $200 shipped for it, open to offers and trades (Apple mice and
 keyboards, etc.)


 This is actually a better machine - it's the last production model and has
 the faster processor.  I would not fret about the narcolepsy issue, as
 it's more of a nuisance when/if it occurs.

 Let me know if you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the
 seller. Here are some pictures:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/6414245...7629831003771/

 The same seller also has this:

 For sale is an excellent condition PowerMac G5 - it has dual 2.0
 processors and is the earlier, non-problematic model that doesn't just die
 randomly. It can take up to 8GB of RAM and has a 150GB HDD.

 It has AirPort Extreme installed - the legitimate Apple card, no antenna,
 but I get nearly FULL signal strength without the antenna with my wireless
 router being like 6-8 feet away, so I mean if you have a set that it would
 work like that, you shouldn't even need to purchase one anyways.

 Video card is 9600 Pro 64MB - has combo drive - NOT super drive as far as
 I can tell. I'm asking $200 shipped

 I was seriously considering it, but the disposable income fund is a little
 low this month.

 Dan


 On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:44 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

  Dan,
   Do you know if this is still available?
 
  Thanks, Mike
  On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  From one of my Mac lists:
 
 
  PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.
 
  Specifications:
  PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
  80GB Hard Drive
  512 MB RAM
  Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
  Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
  Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
  Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
  65 W Power Adapter
 
 
  $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.
 
  Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the
 owner.
  I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials,
 too.
  That's the mark of a serious fanbois.
 
  MacDann
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Dan Penoff
Random sleep on the later PPC PowerBooks. Rarely happens, but when it does, a 
touch of a key or touchpad brings it back.

Dan

Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

What is the narcolepsy issue?  One of my Mac Book falls asleep when
occasionally, but that usually takes an active phone call with my cell
phone on the laptop.


On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 8:04 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 That one is gone, but this just came up this morning:

 I have an overall good - great condition 15 PowerBook G4 that has the
 1.67Ghz processor and 1GB of RAM - has a 300GB HDD, AirPort, BlueTooth, and
 a SuperDrive. Runs GREAT except for when it randomly falls asleep (the
 narcolepsy issue, rarely happens overall tho)

 Asking $200 shipped for it, open to offers and trades (Apple mice and
 keyboards, etc.)


 This is actually a better machine - it's the last production model and has
 the faster processor.  I would not fret about the narcolepsy issue, as
 it's more of a nuisance when/if it occurs.

 Let me know if you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the
 seller. Here are some pictures:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/6414245...7629831003771/

 The same seller also has this:

 For sale is an excellent condition PowerMac G5 - it has dual 2.0
 processors and is the earlier, non-problematic model that doesn't just die
 randomly. It can take up to 8GB of RAM and has a 150GB HDD.

 It has AirPort Extreme installed - the legitimate Apple card, no antenna,
 but I get nearly FULL signal strength without the antenna with my wireless
 router being like 6-8 feet away, so I mean if you have a set that it would
 work like that, you shouldn't even need to purchase one anyways.

 Video card is 9600 Pro 64MB - has combo drive - NOT super drive as far as
 I can tell. I'm asking $200 shipped

 I was seriously considering it, but the disposable income fund is a little
 low this month.

 Dan


 On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:44 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

  Dan,
   Do you know if this is still available?
 
  Thanks, Mike
  On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  From one of my Mac lists:
 
 
  PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.
 
  Specifications:
  PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
  80GB Hard Drive
  512 MB RAM
  Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
  Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
  Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
  Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
  65 W Power Adapter
 
 
  $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.
 
  Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the
 owner.
  I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials,
 too.
  That's the mark of a serious fanbois.
 
  MacDann
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Curt Raymond
Come to ChowdaQ and you'll see I'm also into stoves...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
Message-ID:
1334621642.43074.yext-apple-iph...@web113207.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Funny the guy doing the video is named Curt. 

So you're into lanterns. Does that mean you're into beer 'n campfires as well? 
Cuz I am!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

BTW get Peerless mantles from Oldcolemanparts.com, you'll want 2C-HG for your 
220.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRditi7AQk

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I could drive it to Maine if I wanted to

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 9:05 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 DId/could you drive it home?
 
 On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
 
 I bought a 87 300TD with a #22 head today for $700.  A much better deal.
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread OK Don
Excellent bargain then !

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 9:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I could drive it to Maine if I wanted to

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 9:05 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

  DId/could you drive it home?
 
  On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 wrote:
 
  I bought a 87 300TD with a #22 head today for $700.  A much better deal.
 
 
 
 
  --
  OK Don
  2001 ML320
  1992 300D 2.5T
  1990 300D 2.5T
  1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 300D shutoff

2012-04-16 Thread Dieselhead
When the ign is off, the stop lever on the IP should be down.  When 
the key is ON the stop lever should be UP.  If this does not happen, 
take the shutoff off and reseat.


Alternately, take the rack cover off the side of the IP and be sure 
it slides as the stop lever is moved to up and down positions.


Watch the rack as you crank.  I had a spring or something crack and 
break inside the governor on one pump.  The rack would slam to the 
off position as soon as the engine started to crank.  NO starty. 
Lots of fruitless cranking.





On Apr 15, 2012 11:49 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:


 On Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:11:44 -0400 Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

  I finally replaced the shutoff for the 300D this afternoon.


  I presume this is a OM617 based 300D.



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the gf in DC 
with some gay art fair thing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:20 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Come to ChowdaQ and you'll see I'm also into stoves...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary
Message-ID:
   1334621642.43074.yext-apple-iph...@web113207.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Funny the guy doing the video is named Curt. 

So you're into lanterns. Does that mean you're into beer 'n campfires as well? 
Cuz I am!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

BTW get Peerless mantles from Oldcolemanparts.com, you'll want 2C-HG for your 
220.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRditi7AQk

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Nice score and a helluva bettah deal.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

I could drive it to Maine if I wanted to

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 9:05 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

DId/could you drive it home?

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

I bought a 87 300TD with a #22 head today for $700.  A much better deal.




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 30K for low mileage 300TD!!

2012-04-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

I could drive it to Maine if I wanted to


Now you're just teasing Regina.

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Peter Frederick
DO NOT just ditch a radium dial watch, if you have one, there is  
enough radium in there to cause trouble.  Unless it's a military  
watch, though, it's not radium unless it was made before about 1960,  
when radium stopped being used for that purpose.


It was replaced by tritium (probably dead by now, half life of six  
years or so), and the modern luminescent materials are zinc  sulfide  
doped with rare earth metals.  They only glow for a bout 12 hours,  
but that's long enough for a watch dial, and aren't radioactive.


The worst part of the radium dials is not the radium, since it's an  
alpha emitter and you have to eat it to make it dangerous, but it  
decays into radon along with some other stuff, and the radon rapidly  
decays into much nastier metals.  That means, umpleasantly, that the  
watch is grossly contaminated with not only radium containing dust,  
but also widely distributed radioactive metal oxides.


This is a problem for watchmakers -- not that I know of any who died  
from radiation induced problems, but it's typical of the business to  
collect things like spare hands and dials, and putting them all in  
one place can generate enough radiation flux to exceed the  
recommended daily dose of beta  and gamma from the decay products.


That's why I have a couple 1920's or 30's wrist watches that I've not  
repaired yet, have to get them decomtaminated first.


Don't wear a radium dial watch to bed either -- if you sleep with  
your hand under your head, you can exceed the daily recommended  
radiation dose to your brain.


Peter

On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:


Guess I better ditch the glow in the dark watch face

Dan


On Apr 16, 2012, at 8:29 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Doubt it, more likely because the sheeple are worried about the atom.

The amount of thorium on any one mantle is pretty minimal but I  
bet the regulation of the stuff is pretty aggravating.


-Curt

Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:18:10 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels
Message-ID: 20120416171810.edb76137.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:23 -0400 John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
wrote:


Now to figure out who makes thoriated mantles; the new manufacture
Coleman ones (that are no longer thoriated) put out at most 2/3  
of the

light (and more likely 1/2...)


Did they stop using thorium because it can be used in a dirty bomb  
and

they might be liable if it's stolen from them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Rich Thomas

Damn.  That explains it.

--R

On 4/16/12 11:14 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Don't wear a radium dial watch to bed either -- if you sleep with your 
hand under your head, you can exceed the daily recommended radiation 
dose to your brain.


Peter 


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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread Peter Frederick

Yeah, I figure that's what's wrong with me, too.

Peter

On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:23 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:


Damn.  That explains it.

--R

On 4/16/12 11:14 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Don't wear a radium dial watch to bed either -- if you sleep with  
your hand under your head, you can exceed the daily recommended  
radiation dose to your brain.


Peter


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Rich Thomas
I am trying to wrap my head around the fact your girlfriend is gay.  I 
can't quite figure the deal out.  The possibilities boggle...


--R

On 4/16/12 11:04 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the gf in DC 
with some gay art fair thing.

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Haha. She's not gay! It was a gay-ass art fair thing!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:24 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

I am trying to wrap my head around the fact your girlfriend is gay.  I can't 
quite figure the deal out.  The possibilities boggle...

--R

On 4/16/12 11:04 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the gf in DC 
with some gay art fair thing.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
So it was all pictures of the posterior sections of happy people?

Walt
On Apr 16, 2012 11:30 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Haha. She's not gay! It was a gay-ass art fair thing!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:24 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I am trying to wrap my head around the fact your girlfriend is gay.  I
 can't quite figure the deal out.  The possibilities boggle...

 --R

 On 4/16/12 11:04 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the gf in
 DC with some gay art fair thing.

 Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] OT fedora server

2012-04-16 Thread Dieselhead
 picked up a dell 2650 with a fresh install of fedora.  Anybody 
familiar with this OS for a server?


I am wondering if it has something like AD group policies similar to 
M$ Server 2000/2003/2008.  If so, I can learn to use it.  Otherwise I 
can put 2003R2 on it.


Its intended use will be data storage for a small business with 4 or 
5 computers (XP) and same number of users.  Fortunately none of the 
computers I have looked at so far are Wissta.


I would like to use the GPOs to redirect the users' My Documents to 
the server, among other things.  (such as severely restricting what 
users can do.)



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[MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-16 Thread Rich Thomas



 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars
Date:   Mon, 16 Apr 2012 23:31:19 -0400
From:   Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com



Get some of that foam board at Lowes/HD, it is cheap, and has
foil/plastic facing.  4x8 sheets, a few of those to cover your floor --
moisture barrier, insulation, and sorta soft.

--R

On 4/16/12 7:04 PM, Dave Cavner wrote:

 On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca   wrote:

 I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it 
condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer and 
humid.

 Randy

 Moisture definitely migrates upward through slabs. The floor covering industry 
has used this test to quantify the amount for decades:
 http://www.vaportest.com/Webpages/calcium_chloride_test.htm

 Current thinking is rigid insulation before the pour is the best method to 
eliminate the issue. The amount of insulation depends on your climate zone. 
Current best practices outlined here:
 http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy/

 Lots of good info on that site regarding moisture content in dwellings - and 
how to solve the problem. Overkill for most retrofits.

 My favorite annecdotal quote is an off-topic post from  a wood   pellet stove 
forum:
 http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75919/P0/

   ...Somebody on here was advising under-slab insulation even for an unheated 
garage, which sounded like a pretty good idea.

 Reply from a guy in SW Maine
  I have no heated slabs of the 5 on my property. I have styrofoam under 
4-and-a-half of them.  Guess where it's dark and damp in muggy or rainy weather. I 
can stack bags of grain on the slab in my rodent-proof room (insulated but not 
heated) and they never get mildewed against the floor. Whoever said it, I can agree 
with conviction based on experience.

 Dave
 SoCal



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Re: [MBZ] OT fedora server

2012-04-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
SAMBA should do most of that, iirc it did AD stuff.

Sorry I can't be much more help, I just tolerate windows now, much prefer
the penguin.

Walt
On Apr 16, 2012 11:32 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  picked up a dell 2650 with a fresh install of fedora.  Anybody familiar
 with this OS for a server?

 I am wondering if it has something like AD group policies similar to M$
 Server 2000/2003/2008.  If so, I can learn to use it.  Otherwise I can put
 2003R2 on it.

 Its intended use will be data storage for a small business with 4 or 5
 computers (XP) and same number of users.  Fortunately none of the computers
 I have looked at so far are Wissta.

 I would like to use the GPOs to redirect the users' My Documents to the
 server, among other things.  (such as severely restricting what users can
 do.)


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
You guys r killin me. OK, it was a lovely art fair where I had to sit behind a 
table under a tent in the sweltering heat to help her sell her pottery and 
handmade jewelry. No gays, no posteriors, no rainbow flags.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:31 PM, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote:

So it was all pictures of the posterior sections of happy people?

Walt
On Apr 16, 2012 11:30 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Haha. She's not gay! It was a gay-ass art fair thing!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:24 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

I am trying to wrap my head around the fact your girlfriend is gay.  I
can't quite figure the deal out.  The possibilities boggle...

--R

On 4/16/12 11:04 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the gf in
DC with some gay art fair thing.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] How do you like the dash overlay?

2012-04-16 Thread G Mann
A second frontal lobotomy should cure all residual illness of the
inventor.  I can see the first one has had full effect.

On occasion you see something and think What were they thinking. then
the answer comes They weren't

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 2:35 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:15:15 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 wrote:

  Would not want to be in an accident.

 I agree.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

2012-04-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
And incredibly flammable. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 16, 2012, at 11:33 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:



 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] abuse of cars
Date:Mon, 16 Apr 2012 23:31:19 -0400
From:Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To:Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com



Get some of that foam board at Lowes/HD, it is cheap, and has
foil/plastic facing.  4x8 sheets, a few of those to cover your floor --
moisture barrier, insulation, and sorta soft.

--R

On 4/16/12 7:04 PM, Dave Cavner wrote:
On Apr 16, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca   wrote:
I doubt it. I don't think the water comes up through the concrete. I think it 
condenses on the surface because the concrete is cold and the air is warmer and 
humid.

Randy
Moisture definitely migrates upward through slabs. The floor covering industry 
has used this test to quantify the amount for decades:
http://www.vaportest.com/Webpages/calcium_chloride_test.htm

Current thinking is rigid insulation before the pour is the best method to 
eliminate the issue. The amount of insulation depends on your climate zone. 
Current best practices outlined here:
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy/

Lots of good info on that site regarding moisture content in dwellings - and 
how to solve the problem. Overkill for most retrofits.

My favorite annecdotal quote is an off-topic post from  a wood   pellet stove 
forum:
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75919/P0/

  ...Somebody on here was advising under-slab insulation even for an unheated 
garage, which sounded like a pretty good idea.

Reply from a guy in SW Maine
 I have no heated slabs of the 5 on my property. I have styrofoam under 
4-and-a-half of them.  Guess where it's dark and damp in muggy or rainy 
weather. I can stack bags of grain on the slab in my rodent-proof room 
(insulated but not heated) and they never get mildewed against the floor. 
Whoever said it, I can agree with conviction based on experience.

Dave
SoCal



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

2012-04-16 Thread Dieselhead

Must have been a (shifting to CL language) fairy gud tim


I am trying to wrap my head around the fact your girlfriend is gay. 
I can't quite figure the deal out.  The possibilities boggle...


--R

On 4/16/12 11:04 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm planning on coming. Missed it last yr because I had to help the 
gf in DC with some gay art fair thing.


Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] Coleman lantern mantels

2012-04-16 Thread G Mann
Finally,,, the rest of the story behind the invention of Daylight Savings
By saving daylight we no longer have to sleep with our Radium watches
under our head as many hours thus live below the threshold of radiation
poisoning those government guys are soo smart.

On a more serious note, I have several hundred WW2 era aircraft gages [of
all types] all of which have the old style face with glow in the dark
now illegal to make marking paint.

It is now impossible to get them rebuilt by any instrument shop because of
the EPA regs and such  It was suggested that I place them in
government hazmat approved 55 gallon barrels [cost $500 each] and ship
them to a government hazmat approved disposal site [hazmat shipping cost
per barrel $800] Plus, hazmat disposal fees upon arrival,, yet to be
determined [I'm betting it's based on a per item charge, not a whole
barrel]  Bottom line I'll get back to you [next lifetime maybe].


On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 8:24 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 Yeah, I figure that's what's wrong with me, too.

 Peter


 On Apr 16, 2012, at 10:23 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

  Damn.  That explains it.

 --R

 On 4/16/12 11:14 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

 Don't wear a radium dial watch to bed either -- if you sleep with your
 hand under your head, you can exceed the daily recommended radiation dose
 to your brain.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Nice 15 PB

2012-04-16 Thread Allan Streib
You do understand the G4s are no longer supported by Apple, no new
software will work on them, nor can you get the latest OS or even
updates to the one it has

Otherwise they are nice laptops.

Allan

Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com writes:

 Dan,
   Do you know if this is still available?

 Thanks, Mike
 On Mar 20, 2012 9:19 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From one of my Mac lists:


 PowerBook G4 15 Aluminum.

 Specifications:
 PPC G4 1.5 GHZ
 80GB Hard Drive
 512 MB RAM
 Combo Drive (CD-RW + DVD)
 Wireless Apple Airport Extreme WiFi Card Installed
 Bluetooth EDR+2.0 installed
 Operating System Mac OS X Tiger 10.4 (supports up to Leopard (10.5)
 65 W Power Adapter


 $150 shipped.  What a deal for someone who is into PPC Macs.

 Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with the owner.
  I might add that it ships in the original box and packing materials, too.
  That's the mark of a serious fanbois.

 MacDann
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-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] How do you like the dash overlay?

2012-04-16 Thread Mitch Haley

G Mann wrote:

A second frontal lobotomy should cure all residual illness of the
inventor.  I can see the first one has had full effect.

On occasion you see something and think What were they thinking. then
the answer comes They weren't




They were thinking a fireplace would be overkill, but they really did want a 
mantle.


Mitch.

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