Re: [MBZ] Clarkson the genius

[Hendrik and fay]

Worked OK in Chromium, although I am not sure what the point of it was, 
hillstart?


Hendrik
who uses the handbrake for hillstarts

On 16/03/13 14:28, Allan Streib wrote:

Well THAT really f***ed up my browser.

Mitch Haley  writes:


http://img.izismile.com/img/img6/20130315/1000/friday_gifdump_328_22.gif



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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Fmiser]

> Scott Ritchey wrote:

> It came out of a 1999 Camero and appears to be in good shape.

Ah.  That will sure be better than an open differential, but a
high-performance street car will have a mild torque ratio, where
as hard-core off-road differential would have a large ratio.  

> Installation would involve removing the open center carrier,
> installing the old ring gear on the Torsen center carrier, and
> checking/adjusting the gear pattern.

> I understand all this in theory, but have never done it.

If this isn't your daily driver, and the prospect of a bunch of
fiddling doesn't overwhelm you, I'd say try it.  If you can't
get it, and the drive to the shop is less than 20 miles, most
likely you could even drive it in if you give up.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Fmiser]

> Randy Bennell wrote:

> My F150 has a factory limited slip diff in the back

...

> The other thing I have learned is that I have to put the Ford
> additive into the diff.

That is a clutch type.  The torsen is different.  It uses
worm-gear in clever arrangements to divide the torque.  It will
not require anything added to the oil.  Just hypoid gear oil.

A Torsen style differential will out perform a locking
differential in situations where the traction is different at
each wheel.  The US military HMMV (hummer) uses three - front,
center, and rear.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clarkson

[Allan Streib]

Well THAT really f***ed up my browser.

Mitch Haley  writes:

> http://img.izismile.com/img/img6/20130315/1000/friday_gifdump_328_22.gif

-- 
Allan Streib

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[MBZ] Clarkson

[Mitch Haley]

http://img.izismile.com/img/img6/20130315/1000/friday_gifdump_328_22.gif

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Re: [MBZ] nice diesel

[Dieselhead]

http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3664945591.html


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


Got a corvair there too!

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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[WILTON]

'Reminds me of another Sondy Tale:

STUCK IN <1 INCH OF SNOW
By Wilton Strickland

On Sunday, the 10th of May, 1978, at Sondrestrom Air Base, Greenland, a 
civilian electrical engineer from headquarters at Colorado Springs was 
visiting with me for a few days to discuss the power plant generator engine 
replacement project.  Just as we went in to lunch together at the base 
dining hall, it started snowing hard.  We were in the dining hall for nearly 
two hours discussing possibilities at the power plant and talking to others 
about a variety of subjects.  By the time we got back out to my truck, the 
ground was covered by about an inch of snow.  My guest asked if he could see 
the area 4 or 5 miles down toward the port where there had been a 
significant fuel spill about a year before.  On the road to the port, I 
suddenly realized I had  passed the path that leads to the spill area.  I 
turned left into another path planning to back out to turn around.  The path 
that I pulled into had very small plants with little circular leaves growing 
on it so as to form a tight, thin carpet of green on the surface in the 
compacted wheel tracks.  On top of this, was probably not quite an inch of 
new, wet snow.  The path had a very slight incline downward from the road. 
I pulled completely off the road onto the path, stopped, put my '77 Ford 
crew cab truck into reverse and tried to ease backward out into the road to 
turn around, only to have one rear wheel spin.  I eased forward a couple of 
feet trying to find an area with a little better traction, but one wheel 
still would only spin.  There were some bags of sand in the bed of the 
truck, but I found them to be frozen solid.  Trying to get onto a area with 
slightly less downward incline and a little better traction, I eased forward 
a bit several times, but was never able to get enough traction to back up 
the slight incline.  After several frustrating minutes of not being able to 
back up and only getting farther down the incline, I called our 
communications center and asked for a tow.  The Danish lady I spoke to on 
the radio responded, "OK, I'll have a taxi on the way immediately."  I said, 
"No, I don't need a TAXI, I need a tow, I'm stuck.  Call one of the guys in 
the heavy equipment shop and tell 'im he needs to bring a 'Tonka,' one of 
those big trucks."  (Actually, it's an Oshkosh.  A few days earlier, we had 
been talking about how they remind me of Tonkas - the toys, so from then on, 
we called 'em Tonkas.)  The Danish lady said, "I'll send a taxi for you now, 
and they can go back tomorrow morning and get the truck."  I replied, "I can't 
leave this truck here, it's the base emergency mobile command post, I'm not 
leaving it here.  I need one of the guys in the heavy equipment shop to 
bring a truck that can tow me back onto the road."  Lady said, "OK, I'll try 
to find somebody."  Twenty or thirty minutes or so later, I could hear the 'Tonka' 
coming.  The truck pulled up and I climbed up the ladder to speak to the 
Danish driver.  'First thing he said and with a big grin, "You know, we have 
a tradition, this will cost you."  I replied, "Yes, I know - a case of beer 
for the shop tomorrow."  His truck had a winch on the front, so he pulled 
around so that the winch was toward my truck, walked down the slightly 
inclined path, hooked a cable to my truck and pulled it back into the road. 
Next day, just before the end of the duty day, I dropped a case of beer off 
at the heavy equipment shop to many loud cheers and teasing about getting 
stuck in less than an inch of snow.  I let 'em have their fun, and stood 
around with 'em for a few minutes to give 'em ample opportunity.


BTW, total snow that day was about 8 inches.  It didn't snow again until 8th 
of September, when 10 inches fell.  Those were the only times it snowed at 
Sondy during the year I was there.  The September snow was still on the 
ground when I left on the 8th of February, '79.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Ritchey" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 6:30 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install



Somewhat off topic:  I have a 2003 GMC Sonoma (same as Chevy S-10) mini
pickup truck.  It is very light in the rear end and prone to getting stuck
in mud, snow, and even pine needles.  I'm considering replacing the open
differential with a Torsen limited slip differential and I bought a used
Torsen on Ebay.  It looks like the install is pretty simple (if messy)
except for ensuring the gears mesh correctly.  This truck has less than 
10K

miles so I didn't plan to replace any seals.



Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out to a
professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand experience on this 
list

I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks



Scott

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[MBZ] kitchen cabinets, was OT: wood moisture

[Mitch Haley]

Rich Thomas wrote:
Ideally you want to paint the ends with a waxy sealer stuff that keeps 
the end grain from wicking moisture out faster than it escapes from the 
edges and faces.  Seldom done so you end up with a few inches each end 
that are waste from the cracks/splits.  Now if that is cherry, hickory, 
oak or other wood like that, you can enjoy it with some tasty Q.


I got 17 boards, 8 to 10+ feet, mostly 6-8" wide, maybe 2/3 of them sawn 4/4 and 
the rest 5/4 or maybe a bit thicker, for $30. "Use what you can and the rest 
makes good firewood." Since it had been air drying for 10+ years, there were ten 
years worth of other guys coming along and picking the best stuff out. The 
logger helped me pick out stuff that might have splits or sap wood in spots but 
should have a lot of 2-3' long pieces I can make cabinet doors with.


I'm going for a plain rectangular style. I'll glaze the inside edges of the door 
stiles and rails with black paint before I assemble the doors, should look 
something like this when done, with 1x3" frames and 1/4" plywood center panels:

http://cabinetstogo.com/images/northamericancherry.jpg

Haven't totally decided what do about the cabinet fronts, will either leave as 
is (very dark walnut stained oak, nearly black), paint them black, or maybe 
laminate leftover 1/4" cherry plywood to the fronts. Since the doors and drawer 
fronts will cover the cabinets entirely (with 1/4" gaps between doors), the 
cabinets themselves aren't very important.


Mitch.



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[MBZ] OT: Greenland and the Arctic

[Gerry Archer]

Greenland government falls as voters send warning to mining companies
Voters in Greenland feared that ministers were surrendering their country's 
interests to China.


The race for resources in the frozen wastes of the Arctic has brought down 
its first national government, leaving foreign oil and mining companies 
shivering about the future. Voters in Greenland feared that ministers were 
surrendering their country's interests to China and foreign multinationals 
and called an end this week to the government of prime minister Kuupik 
Kleist.


London Mining, which has a former British foreign minister, Sir Nicholas 
Bonsor, on the board, has been at the centre of a row in the country after 
speculation it could bring in 2,000 Chinese workers to build one of the 
world's biggest iron ore mines expressly to serve steel mills in Beijing.
The activities of Edinburgh-based Cairn Energy, which drilled for oil off 
Greenland's south-west coast in 2011, had also polarised opinion between 
those who welcomed the potential for a hydrocarbon strike bringing huge 
economic wealth and those worried about spills.


The Siumut party in Greenland, led by Aleqa Hammond, has just won 42% of the 
vote, allowing it to form a coalition government in place of the current 
ruling party led by Kleist.
The election campaign was dominated by a debate over the activities of 
foreign investors and concerns among the 57,000 population that Greenland's 
future could be dictated by the demands of potentially polluting new 
industries such as mining and oil rather than traditional Inuit trades of 
fishing and hunting.
Hammond, 47, who was educated in Canada and brought up with traditional 
skills such as curing seal skins, said she would take a more critical look 
at Chinese mining investments in Greenland. She also pledged to increase 
royalties on miners and ensure they talked through staffing plans with trade 
unions.
"We are welcoming companies and countries that are interested in investing 
in Greenland," she said in her first interview since the election. "At the 
same time we have to be aware of the consequences as a people. Greenland 
should work with countries that have the same values as we have, on how 
human rights should be respected. We are not giving up our values for 
investors' sake."


Global warming has caused thawing of sea ice that has made drilling for 
offshore oil easier and opened up huge amounts of land which are believed to 
be stuffed with iron ore, copper and rare earth minerals used in tablets and 
mobile phones.


There is still an acceptance in Greenland that foreign investment is needed 
to bring in revenues and allow the mainly self-governing country to escape 
economic dependence on an annual grant from its former colonial power 
Denmark.
Although a rush by the main oil companies into the Arctic has led to some 
embarrassing setbacks - Cairn has found nothing off Greenland and Shell has 
just abandoned drilling plans for this summer off Alaska - there is still 
keen interest in the region, most notably off Russia.


However, Shell was banned from work off Alaska by the US government this 
week until it came up with a more robust safety programme. Late last year, a 
UK House of Commons committee called for a halt to all drilling in the far 
north until a pan-Arctic response plan was in place. Joan Walley, chair of 
the environmental audit committee, said: "The infrastructure to mount a big 
clean-up operation is simply not in place and conventional oil spill 
response techniques have not been proven to work in such severe conditions."


Recently plans for onshore mining have triggered concern in Nuuk, the 
capital of Greenland. London Mining wants to spend more than £1.5bn on 
constructing a mine, pipeline and deep sea port in the south-west of the 
country.


The company said it "does not want to talk" about the impact of the latest 
political upheaval on its plans but denied it had hired workers from China 
or anywhere else and said it would not do so until it had permission to 
proceed with its mine at Isua, 95 miles (150km) east of Nuuk, which could 
eventually produce 15m tonnes of iron ore a year.


Others with plans are Greenland Minerals and Energy, an Australian-listed 
company, which wants to mine rare earth minerals at Kvanefjeld and - even 
more controversially - uranium to fuel nuclear power.
A spokeswoman for the foreign office in Beijing said on Friday: "To my 
knowledge, no Chinese enterprises have been granted oil, gas or mining 
licences. There are no Chinese workers entering Greenland." She said a 
single Chinese company is in the early stages of joining an investment 
project in Greenland.
A report on the website of China's Ministry of Land and Resources said 
mining company Sichuan Xinye had held preliminary discussions with London 
Mining about eventually taking over the Isua scheme. Other Chinese companies 
digging for business in Greenland were said to include Jiangxi Zhongrun 

Re: [MBZ] Bobbsy Twins

[Mitch Haley]

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Mar 15, 2013 5:48 PM, "clay"  wrote:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3681626013.html



"New suspension" + "the nose is currently down" = "My mechanic gave up,
I've thrown enough money at this, and now it's your turn."


$4500+ in parts put in a car with no hood star or fog lights and a huge area of 
rust on the hood? Does he mean $4500 in new parts ten years ago?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bobbsy Twins

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Mar 15, 2013 5:48 PM, "clay"  wrote:
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3681626013.html
>

"New suspension" + "the nose is currently down" = "My mechanic gave up,
I've thrown enough money at this, and now it's your turn."

Alex
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[MBZ] Bobbsy Twins

[clay]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3681626013.html

no interest, not mine


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Mitch Haley]

Scott Ritchey wrote:

If I'm lucky (BIG IF)
the new carrier will be the same width (across the bearings)as the open
carrier (they are machined parts) so the original shims will produce the
right preload and gear alignment.


Right, only need to adjust side to side if you don't disturb the pinion shaft.

Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Scott Ritchey]

Ref: " Don't have enough information about what you have purchased to give
good advise."

I bought a used Torsen 9022 center carrier for a GM 7.6 inch Series 3
axle(3.23, 3.42, 3.73, and 4.11 rear axle ratios).  It came out of a 1999
Camero and appears to be in good shape.  Installation would involve removing
the open center carrier, installing the old ring gear on the Torsen center
carrier, and checking/adjusting the gear pattern.  I skipped the part about
pulling out the axles (only about 6 inches) and reinstalling them.  It seems
to me that the only tricky part would be the axial shims where the center
carrier bearings clamp into the differential pumpkin.  If I'm lucky (BIG IF)
the new carrier will be the same width (across the bearings)as the open
carrier (they are machined parts) so the original shims will produce the
right preload and gear alignment.

I understand all this in theory, but have never done it.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of G Mann
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2013 2:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

Don't have enough information about what you have purchased to give good
advise.

If you have the complete center "pumpkin" with gear lash alread set up..
you should be able to replace that DIY.. without to much trouble... If you
have the gear set bare, it would involve setting gear lash which is not a
first time DIY project.. I would advise you are money and time ahead to
take it to a skilled professional for turn key service. Eat the $$, and get
what you want in couple days.. done deal.

FWIW,

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> I wonder if thats whats in my Ranger. Whatever it is its a godsend, the
> Ranger is a pretty decent woods truck even in 2wd where my Dakota was
> helpless on wet grass in 2wd. A factory limited slip would be pretty mild
> but even so its pretty amazing the difference it makes.
>
> If I had a dedicated woods truck I'd put a Detroit locker in it no
> question but I the fact that my Ranger does mostly onroad driving and has
> to be driven in the snow puts the kibosh on that. Last week driving to
work
> in a bad snowstorm I noticed one spot where even with the mild limited
slip
> turning at speed was a bit of an issue. I had to make a left turn after a
> freeway offramp and the dammed thing just wouldn't turn. I had to come
> nearly to a complete stop to get it to go. That was even nursing the front
> around with throttle...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 22:30:17 -0500
> From: Fmiser 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install
> Message-ID: <20130314223017.fc8eadbd.fmi...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> > Scott Ritchey wrote:
>
> > I'm considering replacing the open differential with a Torsen
> > limited slip differential
>
> Good choice!  I _really_ like the one in my Suburban.  The
> number to watch is "torque ratio".  By design, there is a
> maximum ratio it will work with.  If the torque demand ratio is
> greater (like one wheel in the air), one wheel will spin.  The
> solution in that situation is to drag the brakes to get the
> ratio back in range.  Better than a locking differential.  But
> if the available traction is poor enough that both wheels will
> slip you'll still get stuck. *smiles*
>
> > Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out
> > to a professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand
> > experience on this list I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks
>
> I really like the one I put in my Suburban.  As far as the work,
> it is a differential job.  So setting up the gear contact is
> important for quiet operation.  I did mine, but some here have
> made vast claims about my mechanicing.  I pretty much do all my
> own work.
>
> So you may want to hire it out.  It's not hard, just finicky.
>
> --Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Randy Bennell]

My F150 has a factory limited slip diff in the back and one thing I have 
noticed is that if I step on the gas a bit too hard at a light when the 
road is wet, both wheels spin and the back end steps sideways.  I don't 
think that happens without the locking axle as if only the one wheel 
spins, the back end stays put.


The other thing I have learned is that I have to put the Ford additive 
into the diff. Without it, it tends to stick - especially after a 
highway run where the diff gets warmed up good. Come in off the highway 
into town and start turning corners and it makes wierd noises and feels 
tight. I was afraid it was wearing out and I was going to have to 
rebuild the clutch pack in it but discovered that putting more of the 
additive in fixed the problem. That additive is the worst smelling stuff 
but it is not expensive and seems to work well.


Randy

On 15/03/2013 11:45 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

I wonder if thats whats in my Ranger. Whatever it is its a godsend, the Ranger 
is a pretty decent woods truck even in 2wd where my Dakota was helpless on wet 
grass in 2wd. A factory limited slip would be pretty mild but even so its 
pretty amazing the difference it makes.

If I had a dedicated woods truck I'd put a Detroit locker in it no question but 
I the fact that my Ranger does mostly onroad driving and has to be driven in 
the snow puts the kibosh on that. Last week driving to work in a bad snowstorm 
I noticed one spot where even with the mild limited slip turning at speed was a 
bit of an issue. I had to make a left turn after a freeway offramp and the 
dammed thing just wouldn't turn. I had to come nearly to a complete stop to get 
it to go. That was even nursing the front around with throttle...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 22:30:17 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install
Message-ID: <20130314223017.fc8eadbd.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


Scott Ritchey wrote:
I'm considering replacing the open differential with a Torsen
limited slip differential

Good choice!  I _really_ like the one in my Suburban.  The
number to watch is "torque ratio".  By design, there is a
maximum ratio it will work with.  If the torque demand ratio is
greater (like one wheel in the air), one wheel will spin.  The
solution in that situation is to drag the brakes to get the
ratio back in range.  Better than a locking differential.  But
if the available traction is poor enough that both wheels will
slip you'll still get stuck. *smiles*


Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out
to a professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand
experience on this list I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks

I really like the one I put in my Suburban.  As far as the work,
it is a differential job.  So setting up the gear contact is
important for quiet operation.  I did mine, but some here have
made vast claims about my mechanicing.  I pretty much do all my
own work.

So you may want to hire it out.  It's not hard, just finicky.

--Philip





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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Randy Bennell]

I doubt that the little Chevy pickup has a removable pumpkin.

Randy


On 15/03/2013 1:46 PM, G Mann wrote:

Don't have enough information about what you have purchased to give good
advise.

If you have the complete center "pumpkin" with gear lash alread set up..
you should be able to replace that DIY.. without to much trouble... If you
have the gear set bare, it would involve setting gear lash which is not a
first time DIY project.. I would advise you are money and time ahead to
take it to a skilled professional for turn key service. Eat the $$, and get
what you want in couple days.. done deal.

FWIW,

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:


I wonder if thats whats in my Ranger. Whatever it is its a godsend, the
Ranger is a pretty decent woods truck even in 2wd where my Dakota was
helpless on wet grass in 2wd. A factory limited slip would be pretty mild
but even so its pretty amazing the difference it makes.

If I had a dedicated woods truck I'd put a Detroit locker in it no
question but I the fact that my Ranger does mostly onroad driving and has
to be driven in the snow puts the kibosh on that. Last week driving to work
in a bad snowstorm I noticed one spot where even with the mild limited slip
turning at speed was a bit of an issue. I had to make a left turn after a
freeway offramp and the dammed thing just wouldn't turn. I had to come
nearly to a complete stop to get it to go. That was even nursing the front
around with throttle...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 22:30:17 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install
Message-ID: <20130314223017.fc8eadbd.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


Scott Ritchey wrote:
I'm considering replacing the open differential with a Torsen
limited slip differential

Good choice!  I _really_ like the one in my Suburban.  The
number to watch is "torque ratio".  By design, there is a
maximum ratio it will work with.  If the torque demand ratio is
greater (like one wheel in the air), one wheel will spin.  The
solution in that situation is to drag the brakes to get the
ratio back in range.  Better than a locking differential.  But
if the available traction is poor enough that both wheels will
slip you'll still get stuck. *smiles*


Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out
to a professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand
experience on this list I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks

I really like the one I put in my Suburban.  As far as the work,
it is a differential job.  So setting up the gear contact is
important for quiet operation.  I did mine, but some here have
made vast claims about my mechanicing.  I pretty much do all my
own work.

So you may want to hire it out.  It's not hard, just finicky.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[G Mann]

Don't have enough information about what you have purchased to give good
advise.

If you have the complete center "pumpkin" with gear lash alread set up..
you should be able to replace that DIY.. without to much trouble... If you
have the gear set bare, it would involve setting gear lash which is not a
first time DIY project.. I would advise you are money and time ahead to
take it to a skilled professional for turn key service. Eat the $$, and get
what you want in couple days.. done deal.

FWIW,

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> I wonder if thats whats in my Ranger. Whatever it is its a godsend, the
> Ranger is a pretty decent woods truck even in 2wd where my Dakota was
> helpless on wet grass in 2wd. A factory limited slip would be pretty mild
> but even so its pretty amazing the difference it makes.
>
> If I had a dedicated woods truck I'd put a Detroit locker in it no
> question but I the fact that my Ranger does mostly onroad driving and has
> to be driven in the snow puts the kibosh on that. Last week driving to work
> in a bad snowstorm I noticed one spot where even with the mild limited slip
> turning at speed was a bit of an issue. I had to make a left turn after a
> freeway offramp and the dammed thing just wouldn't turn. I had to come
> nearly to a complete stop to get it to go. That was even nursing the front
> around with throttle...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 22:30:17 -0500
> From: Fmiser 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install
> Message-ID: <20130314223017.fc8eadbd.fmi...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> > Scott Ritchey wrote:
>
> > I'm considering replacing the open differential with a Torsen
> > limited slip differential
>
> Good choice!  I _really_ like the one in my Suburban.  The
> number to watch is "torque ratio".  By design, there is a
> maximum ratio it will work with.  If the torque demand ratio is
> greater (like one wheel in the air), one wheel will spin.  The
> solution in that situation is to drag the brakes to get the
> ratio back in range.  Better than a locking differential.  But
> if the available traction is poor enough that both wheels will
> slip you'll still get stuck. *smiles*
>
> > Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out
> > to a professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand
> > experience on this list I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks
>
> I really like the one I put in my Suburban.  As far as the work,
> it is a differential job.  So setting up the gear contact is
> important for quiet operation.  I did mine, but some here have
> made vast claims about my mechanicing.  I pretty much do all my
> own work.
>
> So you may want to hire it out.  It's not hard, just finicky.
>
> --Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Curt Raymond]

I wonder if thats whats in my Ranger. Whatever it is its a godsend, the Ranger 
is a pretty decent woods truck even in 2wd where my Dakota was helpless on wet 
grass in 2wd. A factory limited slip would be pretty mild but even so its 
pretty amazing the difference it makes.

If I had a dedicated woods truck I'd put a Detroit locker in it no question but 
I the fact that my Ranger does mostly onroad driving and has to be driven in 
the snow puts the kibosh on that. Last week driving to work in a bad snowstorm 
I noticed one spot where even with the mild limited slip turning at speed was a 
bit of an issue. I had to make a left turn after a freeway offramp and the 
dammed thing just wouldn't turn. I had to come nearly to a complete stop to get 
it to go. That was even nursing the front around with throttle...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 22:30:17 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install
Message-ID: <20130314223017.fc8eadbd.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

> Scott Ritchey wrote:

> I'm considering replacing the open differential with a Torsen
> limited slip differential

Good choice!  I _really_ like the one in my Suburban.  The
number to watch is "torque ratio".  By design, there is a
maximum ratio it will work with.  If the torque demand ratio is
greater (like one wheel in the air), one wheel will spin.  The
solution in that situation is to drag the brakes to get the
ratio back in range.  Better than a locking differential.  But
if the available traction is poor enough that both wheels will
slip you'll still get stuck. *smiles*

> Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out
> to a professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand
> experience on this list I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks

I really like the one I put in my Suburban.  As far as the work,
it is a differential job.  So setting up the gear contact is
important for quiet operation.  I did mine, but some here have
made vast claims about my mechanicing.  I pretty much do all my
own work.

So you may want to hire it out.  It's not hard, just finicky.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Dan Penoff]

>From someone who used to buy 400 BF loads of red oak from the people who owned 
>the trees

Splitting during drying is normal and part of the process.  There are ways of 
treating the wood prior to drying that can minimize this, but unless you're 
doing some serious milling it's not usually worthwhile.  People who want large 
chucks of wood, such as turning stock, will treat lumber before drying so the 
pieces don't split.  For regular board stock it's just not economical to do in 
most cases.

The value you gave for moisture doesn't mean much without taking other factors 
into account, such as relative (ambient) humidity, the location, and if the 
board has been acclimated or seasoned.  7% is a good number for lumber that is 
about to be worked. I find it difficult to imagine it's 0.5%, unless it's been 
really cold and dry around there.

For maximum stability you want to have the lumber in the environment it's going 
to be worked in for at least a week, more if it's unheated or a basement with 
exposed concrete floors.  Never, ever stack lumber on a concrete floor, as it 
will absorb moisture from the concrete.

As for shrinkage, there are ways you can minimize this depending on how you 
work the wood.  With pieces as small as 1" x 3", I can't imagine you will have 
any problems with shrinkage.  It's when you start using larger panels or do 
some large glue-ups that you will see issue with shrinkage if the wood is not 
dry enough.  I have one of my first large furniture projects, a raised panel 
blanket chest, that has a split panel in it because of two things - the wood 
wasn't dry enough, and I didn't leave room in the stiles and rails for the 
panel to expand and contract.  Lesson learned.

If by some chance your lumber is truly at 0.5% moisture content you would have 
more to fear due to swelling than shrinkage, especially if the cabinets are 
going into areas such as a kitchen or bathroom.  However, I still think you 
have nothing to worry about as long as you stabilize the lumber prior to 
working it.  Pieces as small as you describe have little chance of splitting.

To minimize even the remotest possibility of splitting, stay away from board 
ends, that is, cut a good 3"-4" off of the ends of the boards before you 
measure out and cut for your pieces.  Yes, it's waste, but you can always 
figure on a minimum of 10% waste on any lumber project, like it or not.

Dan

On Mar 15, 2013, at 10:18 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

> I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
> I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had 
> sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets.
> There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had been 
> getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from shrinkage.
> 
> My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It says 
> 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old kiln 
> dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.
> 
> I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet doors 
> I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that I'll have 
> shrinkage problems?
> 
> Mitch.
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Rich Thomas]

Ideally you want to paint the ends with a waxy sealer stuff that keeps 
the end grain from wicking moisture out faster than it escapes from the 
edges and faces.  Seldom done so you end up with a few inches each end 
that are waste from the cracks/splits.  Now if that is cherry, hickory, 
oak or other wood like that, you can enjoy it with some tasty Q.


--R (who has a good supply of Q wood)

On 3/15/13 11:55 AM, G Mann wrote:

>From my experience, end splits are "normal" for air dried lumber. The ends
get more air and sun exposure and dry relatively faster than deeper in the
pile. You have to count it in as "waste", sorry to say.

At that moisture content with the wood stacked and sticked you should be
good. As for the boards split from shrinkage, they would still produce
workable wood if you can cut the sizes you need from the solid parts. Bring
it a little closer to the computer so I can have a look at it.. ;))). You
judgement call on that of course.

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 7:18 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:


I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and
had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
been getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
shrinkage.

My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
says 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year
old kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
doors I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
I'll have shrinkage problems?

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[G Mann]

>From my experience, end splits are "normal" for air dried lumber. The ends
get more air and sun exposure and dry relatively faster than deeper in the
pile. You have to count it in as "waste", sorry to say.

At that moisture content with the wood stacked and sticked you should be
good. As for the boards split from shrinkage, they would still produce
workable wood if you can cut the sizes you need from the solid parts. Bring
it a little closer to the computer so I can have a look at it.. ;))). You
judgement call on that of course.

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 7:18 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
> I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and
> had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
> gets.
> There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
> been getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
> shrinkage.
>
> My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
> says 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year
> old kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.
>
> I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
> doors I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
> I'll have shrinkage problems?
>
> Mitch.
>
>
> __**_
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential Install

[Randy Bennell]

On 14/03/2013 5:30 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

Somewhat off topic:  I have a 2003 GMC Sonoma (same as Chevy S-10) mini
pickup truck.  It is very light in the rear end and prone to getting stuck
in mud, snow, and even pine needles.  I'm considering replacing the open
differential with a Torsen limited slip differential and I bought a used
Torsen on Ebay.  It looks like the install is pretty simple (if messy)
except for ensuring the gears mesh correctly.  This truck has less than 10K
miles so I didn't plan to replace any seals.

  


Here's my question:  is this a DIY job or should I hire it out to a
professional?  With all the expertise and first-hand experience on this list
I'm sure someone can comment.  Thanks

  


Scott

___

Do you have the equipment to do it? My son is a mechanic and he talks 
about setting up diffs. I gather from what he says that one needs, among 
other things, a decent sized press. One often has to press bearings on 
and off more than once as shims are adjusted to the right sizes. One 
must be careful in doing so, or one might well be out buying new 
bearings. Depending on the model and type, there are also crush sleaves. 
Not sure if they can be re-used. Also know that he uses a very small 
torque wrench on some of the setups. He had me looking for a 0 to 30 
inch pound torque wrench for him as he was normally able to borrow one 
from another of the mechanics but the fellow was on holidays and his 
tool box was locked up. It turned out to be something that no one 
stocked and we would have had to order one. Don't know how that one was 
resolved - maybe they just gambled on the torque and carried on.


So, nothing that cannot be done or learned to be done but you might not 
want to tackle it unless you have the tools or the access to them and 
might end up spending the monies saved on extra parts if you have any 
problems along the way.


I also think that while I had it apart, I would put new seals in as they 
are not expensive.


Randt

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Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Gerry Archer]

Mitch Haley  wrote:

I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered
and had
sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
been
getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
shrinkage.
My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It 
says

0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old
kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
doors
I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
I'll have shrinkage problems?
Mitch.

.

Buying Cabinet-Quality Lumber

The wood used for furniture and other fine projects differs in many ways 
from lumberyard 2x4s.
The first thing to realize about cabinet-quality lumber is that the rules 
you probably know about ordering dimension lumber (the type you use for 
carpentry work) don't apply. Sizing, grading, ordering -- they're all 
different. Also keep in mind that except for a few white pines, redwood, and 
cedar, most of the time you'll be working with hardwoods.
Understanding Moisture Content All cabinet-grade lumber begins as a "green" 
board that's been mill-sawed from a freshly felled tree. The moisture 
content of a green board will be 28 percent or greater, making it unsuitable 
for woodworking because all wood shrinks, warps, and splits as it dries.
Air-drying reduces the moisture content naturally -- workers stack the slabs 
in such a way that air circulates between the separated layers of boards. 
Air-drying lowers the moisture level to between 12 and 17 percent. (This is 
acceptable for outdoor construction, but don't make any interior projects 
using air-dried material.)
Kiln-drying takes over where air-drying leaves off. Large oven-like kilns 
with carefully controlled temperatures reduce the moisture content to 
between 6 and 9 percent, the ideal range for interior projects.
With few exceptions, retail hardwood dealers sell only kiln-dried lumber. 
It's stored and sold indoors under a roof where the elements won't affect 
it.
When you purchase kiln-dried lumber, store it indoors lying flat on dry 
sticks of scrap or hardboard. Never lay it directly on concrete because it 
will absorb excess moisture.


 http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/buying-cabinet-quality-lumber/ 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Max Dillon]

Believe your meter.  Wood will stabilize at a particular moisture level 
depending on local humidity levels, process takes a matter of weeks.  

If you can, move the cherry wood into the building where the final product 
(cabinets) will reside, let it sit for a couple weeks, then make your cabinets. 
 You shouldn't have any issues.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley  wrote:

>I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
>I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered
>and had 
>sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
>gets.
>There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
>been 
>getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
>shrinkage.
>
>My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
>says 
>0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old
>kiln 
>dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.
>
>I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
>doors 
>I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
>I'll have 
>shrinkage problems?
>
>Mitch.
>
>
>___
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>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] Craiglist oddities, Pacific Northwest edition

[Alex Chamberlain]

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3680989659.html
This is about the cheapest I've seen one of these '80s diesel BMWs.
Rebuilt head is a plus since that's notoriously the weak point.
Seller seems to be a bit of a loon, though.  They did too come with a
5-speed, some of them... and what's this about "I trical charge the
car to keep the glow plugs warm"?

http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/3561467489.html
Short-bumper 107, too bad about the color combo

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3669061100.html
Cheap 190E 2.3-16 Euro with manual climate controls!

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3656072900.html
190E 2.6 Sportline--aren't these even rarer than 2.3-16s?

http://salem.craigslist.org/ctd/3673253235.html
A different kind of 190

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] nice diesel

[Rich Thomas]

You know, that car could be a lot of fun if you could transplant a later 
model engine/drivetrain/suspension into it somehow, leave it looking a 
beater and go roaring around embarrassing Porches or something like 
that.  If had a shop and a big budget and loads of time it would be a 
fun project.


--R


On 3/15/13 10:24 AM, WILTON wrote:

'Hafta let it go.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Rick Hawkins Java" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 10:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] nice diesel



http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3664945591.html


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

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Re: [MBZ] nice diesel

[WILTON]

'Hafta let it go.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Hawkins Java" 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 10:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] nice diesel



http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3664945591.html


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

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[MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Mitch Haley]

I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some > 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had 
sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had been 
getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from shrinkage.


My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It says 
0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old kiln 
dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.


I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet doors 
I'm making with 1/4" cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that I'll have 
shrinkage problems?


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Let the ridicule commence, was Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement?

[Hans Neureiter]

Had  a' 60's Dodge Dart.  Whole dash was all chrome. Nice glare with the
sun in the rear window.
5 Push buttons arranged vertical for the tranny next to a horizontal
arrangement of push buttons for the radio controls.
Tried to change the AM station, missed and hit the reverse button doing 50.
Wasn't locked out.
Must have looked like the old AAMCO commercial. Transmission parts and
pieces all over the highway.


On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 1:26 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > OK Don wrote:
>
> > Chrysler had a push button transmission back in the late 50's
> > or early 60's didn't they? - nothing new there.
>
> I know they did in '61 for sure.  I knew a Valiant equipped with it.
>
> --   Philip
>
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
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>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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