[MBZ] more crazy travel

2013-06-15 Thread Rick Hawkins Java

Folks

I do not have a working odometer (speedo works) but since google is my  
friend


it tells me 724 miles for the round trip then i add about 30 miles for  
some side trips which gives me 754 miles


i kept track of the fuel used, about 36 gals, starting full and  
refilling on return


so that gives me 20.9 etc mpg which is pretty good with the load  
of presses etc.


that seems about right giving the load. I expect that i get about 25  
mpg when NOT dragging a loaded trailer


My car generally has about 60 lbs of tools, 10 or 20 gals of WVO and  
another 100 lbs of miscellaneous equipment moving stuff, so it's  
loaded most of the time

thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

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[MBZ] Snow in the UK ....

2013-06-15 Thread Howard Fulford

On Jun 14, Chris James wrote -

 I'm continually amazed by how fast 210s rust.  Do they salt the roads in
Great Britain ?  I know southern England rarely if ever gets cold enough for
ice and snow, but what about the north and Scotland ? 


Chris

It DOES get cold enough for ice and snow in southern England - but only
maybe a couple of weeks or so, if that

Trouble is, it's not reliably enough snow, or predictably enough snow, to
have major systems in place to deal with it, as 'they' do in the more
northern parts of England and Scotland - WAY more snow up there

So, ALL 'we' can do is salt the roads - thoroughly !!

I believe that all northern Europe build MB's are 'undersealed'

I'm always impressed how well parts of the world that have 'real' snow and
ice deal with it


Howard

'Softy Southener' in Bath
England
'97 200E 5-speed manual, 112011 miles

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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

OK Don wrote:

I'm not sure that everyone on the list appreciates what  a whole yard
full means when reffering to Kaleb!


http://goo.gl/maps/l0f3f


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Michael Esh
Thanks Scott,
injectors were rebuilt by bosch service less than two years ago.  They were 
functioning well before the transplant.  I will ask the mechanic about it.
Mike


On Jun 13, 2013, at 10:03 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

 
 Unburned Diesel in exhaust?  Black smoke?  Sounds like injectors more than
 IP to me.  The IP must be generating enough pressure to pop the injectors or
 no fuel would get into cylinder
 
 Scott
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
 Esh
 Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 5:02 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.
 
 
 The pump from Mitch looks  like it  may be a lost cause.  My mechanic cannot
 get the car to idle correctly or develop any power.  He set the timing at 24
 degrees as baseline and then moved to to 26. At 24 it barely ran at all.
 At 26 it idled a little better but not good at all. It lopes and stalls when
 it idles and belches black smoke and bogs down while trying to accelerate.
 I cannot get any speed or power from it going down the road anyone behind is
 getting lungful of unburnt diesel.  He is going to advance a bit more
 tomorrow but he was not hopeful.
 
 I will take any suggestion to him tomorrow if anyone has any thoughts.
 Sarcasm is welcome and helpful ideas are sought after.  I hope like heck we
 can get this going.  If not I will be looking for another pump.  
 
 For what its worth he also stated it looked like an older pump   
 
 
 Thanks in advance.
 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Michael Esh
Thanks for the idea.  I will suggest it.  kind of like setting the distributor 
up 180 degrees wrong in a gasoline engine?

Mi
On Jun 13, 2013, at 10:26 PM, OK Don wrote:

 IIRC, someone, some time back had a silmilar issue with a pump after
 re-installing it. Turned out to be one crank revolution out of time (IP
 turns half of crank speed). Perhaps Kaleb knows what I'm thinking of?
 Sounds like it wasn't hard to get it wrong ---
 
 
 On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 9:03 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 The pump from Mitch looks  like it  may be a lost cause.  My mechanic
 cannot
 get the car to idle correctly or develop any power.  He set the timing at
 24
 degrees as baseline and then moved to to 26. At 24 it barely ran at all.
 At 26 it idled a little better but not good at all. It lopes and stalls
 when
 it idles and belches black smoke and bogs down while trying to accelerate.
 I cannot get any speed or power from it going down the road anyone behind
 is
 getting lungful of unburnt diesel.  He is going to advance a bit more
 tomorrow but he was not hopeful.
 
 I will take any suggestion to him tomorrow if anyone has any thoughts.
 Sarcasm is welcome and helpful ideas are sought after.  I hope like heck we
 can get this going.  If not I will be looking for another pump.
 
 For what its worth he also stated it looked like an older pump
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2013 F150
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Michael Esh wrote:

Thanks for the idea.  I will suggest it.  kind of like setting the distributor 
up 180 degrees wrong in a gasoline engine?


Yep, except the only thing the gas engine will do is maybe shoot flames out the 
intake. The diesel will run, sort of, if there's fuel in the cylinder from the 
out of time injection.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Michael Esh
  
I will meet with him on Monday and go over these things. I did not ask him how 
many pumps he had changed, I would feel a little awkward doing this   The shop 
has been there as long as I can remember and I am 56.  They also put an engine 
in my 73 220D  several years back.  I believe he is qualified.  

On Jun 13, 2013, at 11:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 IIRC, someone, some time back had a silmilar issue with a pump after
 re-installing it. Turned out to be one crank revolution out of time (IP
 turns half of crank speed). Perhaps Kaleb knows what I'm thinking of?
 Sounds like it wasn't hard to get it wrong ---
 
 Pre-zackly!  Before I put a pump  in I check that the intake valve has 
 intook, and the exhaust valve has not been exhausting.
 
 with the pump  in, this is easy.  take off the valve cover.
 turn the engine over in the proper direction until the second valve opens, 
 then rotate the engine until it is TDC.
 That way you have TDC of compression stroke.
 
 IF you crack the #1 injector line when the intake valve opens, and if the key 
 is on (123 or newer) you should get fuel leaking out on top of the injector 
 nozzle holder as you turn it to TDC.
 
 I found the new pump on the klebmobile was a way out of time.  I believe 
 that work was done at little crock arkieland, second home of billybob and 
 pillary.
 
 
 Q:  how many IPs has this guy installed?
 
 I'd check the injection timing myself, at least by pulling #1 line, cleaning 
 out the flare if the DV Union on top of the pump to the straight bore.  then 
 turn the engine on the #1 cyl compression stroke until the fuel in the 
 straight bore of the DV JUST starts to move up. STOP and read the degree 
 wheel on the crankshaft vibration dampener. That will get you within a couple 
 degrees of start of delivery.  it is a quick check to find out if the IP 
 timing is in the ball park. On OM621s, I could time them that way by allowing 
 1 to 2 degrees lag, and checking it this way until I have the same reading 3 
 times. (repeatability)  no special tools needed.  I timed that way and with 
 the drip tube to verify I was within spec.I never had to adjust after 
 using the drip tube.
 
 I never liked taking out the delivery valve to do the trip tube timing.  too 
 much chance of introducing a speck of dust with R  R the delivery valve.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Dieselhead
I also found one IP that was timed  xxº ATDC in 
place of xxº BTDC  that makes a difference too. 
If I am to believe the plate on the front license 
holder, that work was done by a qualified 
German auto specialist shop.


Just because they are reputable does not mean 
they don't make mistakes.  'specially if the have 
the new kid stick the pump in.





I will meet with him on Monday and go over these 
things. I did not ask him how many pumps he had 
changed, I would feel a little awkward doing 
this   The shop has been there as long as I can 
remember and I am 56.  They also put an engine 
in my 73 220D  several years back.  I believe he 
is qualified. 


On Jun 13, 2013, at 11:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


 IIRC, someone, some time back had a silmilar issue with a pump after
 re-installing it. Turned out to be one crank revolution out of time (IP
 turns half of crank speed). Perhaps Kaleb knows what I'm thinking of?
 Sounds like it wasn't hard to get it wrong ---


 Pre-zackly!  Before I put a pump  in I check 
that the intake valve has intook, and the 
exhaust valve has not been exhausting.


 with the pump  in, this is easy.  take off the valve cover.
 turn the engine over in the proper direction 
until the second valve opens, then rotate the 
engine until it is TDC.

 That way you have TDC of compression stroke.

 IF you crack the #1 injector line when the 
intake valve opens, and if the key is on (123 
or newer) you should get fuel leaking out on 
top of the injector nozzle holder as you turn 
it to TDC.


 I found the new pump on the klebmobile was a 
way out of time.  I believe that work was done 
at little crock arkieland, second home of 
billybob and pillary.



 Q:  how many IPs has this guy installed?

 I'd check the injection timing myself, at 
least by pulling #1 line, cleaning out the 
flare if the DV Union on top of the pump to the 
straight bore.  then turn the engine on the #1 
cyl compression stroke until the fuel in the 
straight bore of the DV JUST starts to move up. 
STOP and read the degree wheel on the 
crankshaft vibration dampener. That will get 
you within a couple degrees of start of 
delivery.  it is a quick check to find out if 
the IP timing is in the ball park. On OM621s, I 
could time them that way by allowing 1 to 2 
degrees lag, and checking it this way until I 
have the same reading 3 times. (repeatability) 
no special tools needed.  I timed that way and 
with the drip tube to verify I was within spec. 
I never had to adjust after using the drip tube.


 I never liked taking out the delivery valve to 
do the trip tube timing.  too much chance of 
introducing a speck of dust with R  R the 
delivery valve.



 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Snow in the UK ....

2013-06-15 Thread Dieselhead


Howard

'Softy Southener' in Bath
England
'97 200E 5-speed manual, 112011 miles


Thanks for your report from Somerset.  Your car sounds interesting. 
Too bad we don't get a choice of cars, engines and transmissions here.


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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Max
I had similar symptoms, but not as severe, with an EGR valve that stuck open.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Max
Yes!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Michael Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:

Thanks for the idea.  I will suggest it.  kind of like setting the
distributor up 180 degrees wrong in a gasoline engine?

Mi
On Jun 13, 2013, at 10:26 PM, OK Don wrote:

 IIRC, someone, some time back had a silmilar issue with a pump after
 re-installing it. Turned out to be one crank revolution out of time
(IP
 turns half of crank speed). Perhaps Kaleb knows what I'm thinking of?
 Sounds like it wasn't hard to get it wrong ---
 
 
 On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 9:03 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:
 
 
 
 
 The pump from Mitch looks  like it  may be a lost cause.  My
mechanic
 cannot
 get the car to idle correctly or develop any power.  He set the
timing at
 24
 degrees as baseline and then moved to to 26. At 24 it barely ran at
all.
 At 26 it idled a little better but not good at all. It lopes and
stalls
 when
 it idles and belches black smoke and bogs down while trying to
accelerate.
 I cannot get any speed or power from it going down the road anyone
behind
 is
 getting lungful of unburnt diesel.  He is going to advance a bit
more
 tomorrow but he was not hopeful.
 
 I will take any suggestion to him tomorrow if anyone has any
thoughts.
 Sarcasm is welcome and helpful ideas are sought after.  I hope like
heck we
 can get this going.  If not I will be looking for another pump.
 
 For what its worth he also stated it looked like an older pump
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2013 F150
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 350SDL parts

2013-06-15 Thread Rusty Cullens
He didn't want it, he had retired a second time as is now traveling the
world with his wife.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch
Haley
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 6:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350SDL parts

WILTON wrote:
 There was a Tom with Rusty - same guy?  What happened to Rusty's Tom?
 

Rusty should have sold Bimby to him.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] B.A.T....Where has it been

2013-06-15 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jun 15, 2013, at 2:04 AM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:

 Has anyone gotten an email from bring a trailer lately?


The site was down for maintenance. The BaT dude himself was in the Chicago area 
this week (per Facebook post by BaT). 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Peter Frederick
Oh, I forgot about the EGR sticking -- muffled knock, low power (very  
low) and ENORMOUS amounts of inky smoke.


Happened on the Volvo, not the MB, but quite impressive none the less.

Has nothing to do with pump timing, and will vanish if you get the EGR  
closed and pull the vac line.


Peter

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[MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread MG
I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on 
at least the 83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of 
others. I have one that is no good anymore.


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread WILTON

A section full?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I think its the end



I'm not sure that everyone on the list appreciates what  a whole yard
full means when reffering to Kaleb!


On Fri, Jun 14, 2013 at 5:38 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel 
marme...@gmail.comwrote:



At 4:35 PM -0500 6/14/13, OK Don wrote:


Kaleb, how many cars do you have for Curt to choose from?



A whole yardful, of course!  :D

-MMM-





--
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] 350SDL parts some assembly required

2013-06-15 Thread WILTON

'Don't thank I'd be able da handle them thangs spinnin' bassackwards.  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik and Fay heni...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350SDL parts some assembly required


Spose when you come over here with my medal you can install the bloody 
thing and see if the drain drains.


Bruce
who just had a sausage in bread for lunch

On 15/06/13 00:14, WILTON wrote:
Are cold faucets there on the right and hot on left or vice verse, and 
are you sure the drain in that vanity's gonna work right rotating 
bassackward? ;)


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Hendrik and Fay heni...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350SDL parts some assembly required


While we wait for that, you lot can read this and order an IKEA style 
car 
http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/06/toyota-has-a-car-you-can-assemble-entirely-by-hand/ 
wonder if it comes with it's own allen key


Hendrik
who has a vanity unit to install tomorrow, finally found one after many 
months in my price range and Fays taste range

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/north-brighton/other-appliances/bathroom-vanity/1021486323?ea=3295132utm_source=ALERTSutm_medium=EMAILutm_campaign=EMAIL_ALERTS#





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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread WILTON
Plenty more room under those trees or to the east, or is that neighbor's 
territory?  'Looks like he outgrew the fence.  ;)


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I think its the end



OK Don wrote:

I'm not sure that everyone on the list appreciates what  a whole yard
full means when reffering to Kaleb!


http://goo.gl/maps/l0f3f


Mitch.

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[MBZ] geography lesson

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Randy B should like this:
http://youtu.be/qMkYlIA7mgw

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Fmiser
 Michael Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:

 I did not ask him how many pumps he had changed, I would feel a
 little awkward doing this

Huh??  You are trusting him to correctly work on your car - in exchange
for _your_ money - and don't want to ask about his qualifications??

Whatever!

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:25 AM, MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:

 I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on at least the 
 83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of others. I have one that is 
 no good anymore.


If you shop for axles, you can get two new axles for about a hundred bucks from 
Advance Auto Parts, IF you use a coupon code. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Dan Penoff
The coupon code P20 used to get you 20% off anything.

Dan


On Jun 15, 2013, at 12:14 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:

 On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:25 AM, MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:
 
 I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on at least the 
 83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of others. I have one that 
 is no good anymore.
 
 
 If you shop for axles, you can get two new axles for about a hundred bucks 
 from Advance Auto Parts, IF you use a coupon code. 
 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Rick Knoble
A124 gets 40 off of 110. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 15, 2013, at 11:20 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 The coupon code P20 used to get you 20% off anything.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Jun 15, 2013, at 12:14 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
 
 On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:25 AM, MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:
 
 I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on at least 
 the 83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of others. I have one 
 that is no good anymore.
 
 
 If you shop for axles, you can get two new axles for about a hundred bucks 
 from Advance Auto Parts, IF you use a coupon code. 
 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread OK Don
Yup, I think you can only see about a thrid of them from the air --- he was
up against all the fences last time I saw them.


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 9:29 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Plenty more room under those trees or to the east, or is that neighbor's
 territory?  'Looks like he outgrew the fence.  ;)

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 6:29 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] I think its the end



  OK Don wrote:

 I'm not sure that everyone on the list appreciates what  a whole yard
 full means when reffering to Kaleb!


 http://goo.gl/maps/l0f3f


 Mitch.

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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Dan Penoff wrote:

The coupon code P20 used to get you 20% off anything.


What you want are the $40 off $100 or $35 off $85 coupons.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Chris James


http://www.retailmenot.com/


On 6/15/2013 2:08 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Dan Penoff wrote:

The coupon code P20 used to get you 20% off anything.


What you want are the $40 off $100 or $35 off $85 coupons.

Mitch.



--
Chris J.

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Re: [MBZ] Trent

2013-06-15 Thread Benz Hogs

By the powers of internet, you're only about .001 seconds away


Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 Max (166,xxx mi)

On 6/14/2013 6:56 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

Dieselhead wrote:

I Agree with the first three sentences.   Ask for help!  there is an amazing
amount of talent here.


Ask.
I'm up the road a piece - it might take me couple hours to arrive...
if you are in Sterling.
mao


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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Benz Hogs
Might just ask him to check the IP timing and see what his response is. 
 That avoids the awkward question on his experience.


Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 Max (166,xxx mi)

On 6/15/2013 6:17 AM, Michael Esh wrote:


I will meet with him on Monday and go over these things. I did not ask him how 
many pumps he had changed, I would feel a little awkward doing this   The shop 
has been there as long as I can remember and I am 56.  They also put an engine 
in my 73 220D  several years back.  I believe he is qualified.




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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Benz Hogs
Good call.  The radiator cap needs to be tight as being loose will lower 
the boiling point of the water.  Loose cap = nearly atmosphere pressure, 
tight cap should be 3 bar/45psi (I think?).


Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 Max (166,xxx mi)

On 6/14/2013 5:34 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

If the rad cap is on tight does it overheat?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 14, 2013, at 4:58 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


'78 240D

I'm back to where I started, can't keep coolant in the engine, I've put about 3 
gallons in today and its all splashed back out. While the engine is running it 
bubbles and burbles and the coolant level rises over the neck of the radiator. 
I put in more and we repeat...

I don't know why it would have gotten better for awhile and now gone back to 
this, it doesn't make any sense to me but there we are.

Looks like Monday I'll be shopping for a new to me car.

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Benz Hogs wrote:
Might just ask him to check the IP timing and see what his response is. 
 That avoids the awkward question on his experience.


Earlier description made it sound like he had been playing with the timing and 
changing it from x degrees to y degrees to make the engine quit acting like it 
was out of time.


But still leaves some questions unanswered:
What timing method was used?
Was the timing set in the appropriate (ATDC or BTDC) direction for the method 
used?
Can he be 100% sure the timing isn't 360 degrees off?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

One more question:
If a previously working IP sat in a box for ten years, would it be possible to 
have a delivery valve or two stick open when you put in on an engine?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Craig
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 14:01:41 -0500 Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
wrote:

 Good call.  The radiator cap needs to be tight as being loose will
 lower the boiling point of the water.  Loose cap = nearly atmosphere
 pressure, tight cap should be 3 bar/45psi (I think?).

No, that's the oil pressure gauge. Radiator caps are around 1 bar/15 psig.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D injection Pump - possible failure of used pump.

2013-06-15 Thread Michael Canfield
Sure..I would try diesel purge and check pump timing.

Mike
On Jun 15, 2013 3:26 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 One more question:
 If a previously working IP sat in a box for ten years, would it be
 possible to have a delivery valve or two stick open when you put in on an
 engine?

 Mitch.

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[MBZ] ASR Question

2013-06-15 Thread Dan Penoff
Coming back from grocery shopping this afternoon and the ASR light (little 
yellow triangle in the center of the speedo) came on from the get-go.  In other 
words, it came on when I started the car and stayed on for the roughly six mile 
drive home.  No flashing, no weird driving such as a wheel or wheels acting 
strange.

Tires are all at pressure and looking good.

Could I have a dirty wheel sensor?

I don't have time to researching this in depth right now, but I need to get a 
wheel off to check the brake pad thickness on my fronts, as I've been getting 
intermittent brake wear indicator light for the last week or two

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread MG

Rick Knoble wrote:

On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:25 AM, MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:


I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on at least the 
83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of others. I have one that is 
no good anymore.



If you shop for axles, you can get two new axles for about a hundred bucks from Advance Auto Parts, IF you use a coupon code. 


Rick
OK I got 2 new ones $105.98 with the $40 off. I hope they are as 
good as URO. HAHAHAHA


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] ASR Question

2013-06-15 Thread OK Don
I think I had that happen in the ML once - turning the car off then
starting it again cleared the light - a re-boot.


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 4:37 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Coming back from grocery shopping this afternoon and the ASR light (little
 yellow triangle in the center of the speedo) came on from the get-go.  In
 other words, it came on when I started the car and stayed on for the
 roughly six mile drive home.  No flashing, no weird driving such as a wheel
 or wheels acting strange.

 Tires are all at pressure and looking good.

 Could I have a dirty wheel sensor?

 I don't have time to researching this in depth right now, but I need to
 get a wheel off to check the brake pad thickness on my fronts, as I've been
 getting intermittent brake wear indicator light for the last week or two

 Dan
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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Benz Hogs
Thanks, I had a feeling I was wrong.  The point is that pressure in the 
cooling system helps raise the boiling point.


Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 Max (165,xxx mi)

On 6/15/2013 3:56 PM, Craig wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 14:01:41 -0500 Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
wrote:


Good call.  The radiator cap needs to be tight as being loose will
lower the boiling point of the water.  Loose cap = nearly atmosphere
pressure, tight cap should be 3 bar/45psi (I think?).


No, that's the oil pressure gauge. Radiator caps are around 1 bar/15 psig.


Craig



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[MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Craig
Rich,

The last entry on your blog at http://marshhouseaddition.blogspot.com/
was on 17 March 2013.

Have you made any more progress on the house?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Rich Thomas
Yes I got my closet built out with oak cabinets and shelves, and my wife's with 
these wire things which she wanted.   ( Don't use those things!). Painted all 
the walls, did electrical covers and 2 fans, some internals for the HVAC, built 
a housing for the WC fan light.  Some other random stuff.

Doors were supposedly delivered last Tuesday, someone supposedly signed for 
them at 5:30AM, Home Depot assures me this happened but now they tell me they 
are really in transit but a week late.  $900 worth.  I think they are using 
Trent.  WTF.

I am close to getting new power line run and will need another small septic 
system, building inspector assures me he will approve the bed/bath part of the 
project and give me occupancy permit, which will make mama happy.  Not a lot to 
do but wait on vendors.

I can get HVAC organized when I gt power, then do the other stuff.  Not a lot 
more really for that aspect, will be good to build out kitchen with cool AC.

I will post some more piccies this week when I get back home.

BTW if anyone needs to order home stuff, check out build.com -- I have ordered 
a LOT from them, they have been awesome.  I have my own sales person now.  
Unfortunately they quit selling doors.

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

Rich,

The last entry on your blog at http://marshhouseaddition.blogspot.com/
was on 17 March 2013.

Have you made any more progress on the house?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] CL crackhead of the day Fwd: Re: 1992 MERCEDES 400E (ATLANTA/CONLEY)

2013-06-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Rick Knoble wrote:

On Jun 7, 2013, at 11:00 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


It is 100 more than a 300E.  Most cars only go to 300, this one goes to 400.



http://youtu.be/UeOXsA8sp_E



http://mentalfloss.com/article/48863/11-controversial-vanity-license-plates

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Craig
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 21:02:52 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 BTW if anyone needs to order home stuff, check out build.com -- I have
 ordered a LOT from them, they have been awesome.  I have my own sales
 person now.

I have bought things from them, too. I needed 6 venting pipes and elbows
for our kitchen hood and no one here in New Mexico had them.
VentingDirect.com (one of Build.com's network of stores) came through
well.

I also bought all of our kitchen sink stuff from FaucetDirect (another of
Build.com's network of stores). We got the Kohler cast iron sink for
$611.16 plus $70.00 shipping, where the store that carried Kohler in Santa
Fe wanted something like $849.00 plus sales tax.

If you would like LED under cabinet lighting in your kitchen (like we
have), check out

http://inspiredled.com/Shop-by-Project/kitchen-lighting/ultra-bright-flexible-LED-strip-lights

I bought appropriate length, pre-manufactured strips, connecting cables,
and power supplies from inspiredLED. They did well for us. $141 for all
the pieces for our kitchen. Looks great.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] CL crackhead of the day Fwd: Re: 1992 MERCEDES 400E (ATLANTA/CONLEY)

2013-06-15 Thread Rich Thomas
My friend has 3ATME on his M3

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Jun 15, 2013, at 9:29 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Rick Knoble wrote:
 On Jun 7, 2013, at 11:00 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 It is 100 more than a 300E.  Most cars only go to 300, this one goes to 400.
 http://youtu.be/UeOXsA8sp_E


http://mentalfloss.com/article/48863/11-controversial-vanity-license-plates

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Rich Thomas
I just ran power lines and some cable for my under cab lights.  I think I am 
going to get some individually addressable RGB LED strips from Adafruit and put 
an arduino on them with a remote and program a bunch of different cycles and 
colors and such for them.  Disco cabinets when the time comes!  I'm going to 
put some USB outlets in the boxes off the 110v power, they are good for2A so I 
can run a fair amount off that.

I will check out your source, still looking at options.

Costco was selling LED bulbs for $9 with electric co subsidy, I bought a bunch 
of them.  They look pretty good, nice color on the light, quite bright, 60W 
equivalent @ like 14W, long lifetime (supposedly).  I think led is the way to 
go now.

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Jun 15, 2013, at 9:41 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 If you would like LED under cabinet lighting in your kitchen (like we
 have), check out
 
 http://inspiredled.com/Shop-by-Project/kitchen-lighting/ultra-bright-flexible-LED-strip-lights
 
 I bought appropriate length, pre-manufactured strips, connecting cables,
 and power supplies from inspiredLED. They did well for us. $141 for all
 the pieces for our kitchen. Looks great.
 
 
 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Dan Penoff
I have a couple of these installed in the receptacles on each side of our bed:

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/PWR2U15ATRW/

They had a sale a while back where they were two for $20.  Very convenient and 
even produce enough power to chargevanniPad. Beats having all the wall warts 
plugged in to the wall behind the furniture.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 15, 2013, at 10:26 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I just ran power lines and some cable for my under cab lights.  I think I am 
 going to get some individually addressable RGB LED strips from Adafruit and 
 put an arduino on them with a remote and program a bunch of different cycles 
 and colors and such for them.  Disco cabinets when the time comes!  I'm going 
 to put some USB outlets in the boxes off the 110v power, they are good for2A 
 so I can run a fair amount off that.
 
 I will check out your source, still looking at options.
 
 Costco was selling LED bulbs for $9 with electric co subsidy, I bought a 
 bunch of them.  They look pretty good, nice color on the light, quite bright, 
 60W equivalent @ like 14W, long lifetime (supposedly).  I think led is the 
 way to go now.
 
 --R (sent from my miniPad)
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Re: [MBZ] Annular hub needed

2013-06-15 Thread Dieselhead
I need one of the annular hubs that goes in the differential on at 
least the 83-85 W123 and W126 as well as probably a bunch of others. 
I have one that is no good anymore.


Manfred



You talkin' about the hub the axle bolts to?  I have one out, or I 
have a whole diff from a 300D if you prefer.


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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Fmiser
   Luther wrote:
  
   Good call.  The radiator cap needs to be tight as being loose will
   lower the boiling point of the water.  Loose cap = nearly
   atmosphere pressure, tight cap should be 3 bar/45psi (I think?).

  On 6/15/2013 3:56 PM, Craig wrote:
 
  No, that's the oil pressure gauge. Radiator caps are around 1
  bar/15 psig.

 Luther wrote:

 Thanks, I had a feeling I was wrong.  The point is that pressure in
 the cooling system helps raise the boiling point.

But in this case, it doesn't matter.  The pressure cap does not change
the temperature, so if it's getting too hot, putting the cap on tight
won't fix it.  It _may_ keep the coolant from boiling, though.

Curt's problem is that it's getting too hot.  The non-tight cap in
immaterial.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] I think its the end

2013-06-15 Thread Dieselhead



Curt's problem is that it's getting too hot.  The non-tight cap in
immaterial.

--Philip



pressure raises the boiling point.  a 1 bar cap will get you about 30 
degrees F.  or 242-250 depending on altitude and atmospheric 
conditions.


I'd put the cap on and try it again.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Marsh House Addition

2013-06-15 Thread Craig
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 22:26:45 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I just ran power lines and some cable for my under cab lights.  I think
 I am going to get some individually addressable RGB LED strips from
 Adafruit and put an arduino on them with a remote and program a bunch
 of different cycles and colors and such for them.  Disco cabinets when
 the time comes!

That's much more than we wanted! 


 I will check out your source, still looking at options.

They do have various types. The link I included was for the type we
bought. You can get them up to 39' 4 long and illuminate all sorts of
things.


 Costco was selling LED bulbs for $9 with electric co subsidy, I bought
 a bunch of them.  They look pretty good, nice color on the light, quite
 bright, 60W equivalent @ like 14W, long lifetime (supposedly).  I think
 led is the way to go now.

The price is indeed coming down. Legislating compact fluorescent was
stupid; LEDs don't have the eternally toxic mercury.


Craig

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