Re: [MBZ] Where is Marshall?
Could it be that this list seems to stray from MB interest to other areas thusly adding to the load of stuff that has to be looked at. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 20:10:44 -0500 Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Say Thank you, Marshall - Speaking of Marshall, what happened to him? Well, maybe something like over 300 messages in the last couple of days made him decide that this list has a poor signal to noise ratio. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 10, Issue 100
Jim, How is this chrome strip held on. I don't want to bend it if you have to go from the inside. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD One more question I have is should I remove this outside chrome strip or just try and slip the brush under it? The strip has to come off, at least partway. That may or may not entail removing the mirror first. I've managed a time or two to avoid removing the mirror. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] lubricating linkages ATF
Mak, The linkages are so long and with so many connections that you want to minimize any resistance that would be caused by buildup of dirt. ATF doesn't collect dirt like any oil or grease would. That extra resistance over the entire system ends up causing much more than resistance to the whole system. That's why ATF works the best. I'ts also something that probably needs to be done twice a year to keep the system clean. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Message: 12 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 09:08:05 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] llubricating linkages ATF To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed It would cause it to collect dirt and cause them to stick. M.Afzaal.Khan wrote: Hiwhat would be the difference if one used engine oil rather than ATF for lubricating the linkages. The viscosity? mak
Re: [MBZ] Replacing outer window brushes
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing outer window brushes To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Will you also be replacing the vinly plastic sheathing that curls and cracks with age on the 123s? I'm not sure what part you are talking about. The manual only shows what has been explained in this thread. I see no plastic sheathing. It looks like a press fit. (72-170). The one point I wasn't sure of is that the strip's shape doesn't look like it would hold in place very well. There is an outside chrome strip along the outside top edge of the door which the strip slips under that probably hold the outside of the brush. One more question I have is should I remove this outside chrome strip or just try and slip the brush under it? Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] Replacing outer window brushes
I'm replacing the outer window brushes (sealing strip) in all of my windows in my 84 300SD. Before I begin does anyone have any hints to make it easier, for example is it better to loosen the glass in the door? I have the manual and it seems pretty basic on removal reinstallation (1 page). I'm also at somewhat of a loss as to how they are actually held in. Is it just a press fit or what? Any help appreciated Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] unknown wire
Thanks Marshall, this is the kind of thing that sometimes can scare a guy. Funny though that I've had this car for 8 years and never noticed it. Dennis Dennis Perkins wrote: I was cleaning under the hood of my 84 300SD today and found a three lead wire that ends in an oval female connection behind the drivers side headlight next to the preglow timing relay. It starts at a contact (looks like a magnetic pickup) next to the timing mark. I can see no connection that it should hook to. Everything in the car works. Does anyone have any idea as to wether this is some kind of diagnostic connection or should it hook up to something. Early in 1984 production Mercedes changed the active engine rpm pickup on OM617.95 engines from the crank damper at the front of the engine to a pickup on the flywheel. They left the pickup on the crank damper (and it's connector near the preglow relay) however, because many of the shop diagnostic machines in use would operate ONLY with the older pickup located on the damper. Marshall
[MBZ] Unknown wire
I was cleaning under the hood of my 84 300SD today and found a three lead wire that ends in an oval female connection behind the drivers side headlight next to the preglow timing relay. It starts at a contact (looks like a magnetic pickup) next to the timing mark. I can see no connection that it should hook to. Everything in the car works. Does anyone have any idea as to wether this is some kind of diagnostic connection or should it hook up to something.
[MBZ] Repacking CV joints
I came upon an article that shows how to repack CV joints. I have heard in other places and in this article that rebuilt MB CV joints have an inherent weakness because when they are rebuilt they are machined, which takes off the surface hardening on the original joints. If this is true (mine look a lot like the pics in the article) would it prudent ot have them rebooted as this article shows? I have seen this machine on a couple of television car maintenance shows and it looks pretty easy to use. I'm going to try and find a site for it and update everyone to it's specs, price and so on. The article is at: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] Sudden Vacuum Pump Failure
Can vacuum pumps fail suddenly and completely? During my commute from work this evening, my '95 E300D suddenly started shifting harshly. Then at the next red light, the brakes required a lot of peddle pressure. I pulled over to check things out and the engine wouldn't shut off. That's when I realized I had lost vacuum. Can't find any obvious big leaks or anything. With the engine running, I disconnected the big vacuum line to the master cylinder, and it had NO vacuum at all. I've replaced other vacuum pumps on my MB fleet when they were getting weak or noisey. But I've never had a total failure. Has anybody else experienced this? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD Ned, On my 84 300SD it quit quite suddenly. I tried a rebuild kit for about $75 but with no success. On mine one valve is not included in the rebuild kit. I'm not sure what a whole new pump would cost for your model or how hard it is to install but if it is as easy as mine I would order a new pump and install it myself. Ask around on this site to see how hard it is to install. Someone should know. Chuck Landenberger mentioned $800 to have his installed. That seems high as my show pump was about $200 (remanufactured). If your ihterested I have some articles I could send to you that might head you in the right direction on installation on a 126 but I'm not sure if they would pertain to your model. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater
BERU sells an EXCELLENT kit (which required special glow plugs and a new (but cheap) relay). THese plugs get hotter faster, glow while starting and glow for up to 3 minutes after starting to reduce emissions and, I imagine, even out the engine right after start. Have them in my SD - THEY ARE GREAT! Chris Chris, What year model car do these fit do you know where I can look up the technical aspects of this kit. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?
andrew strasfogel wrote: 1/2 degree = h.m. mpg? Not linear. Never tried to accurately measure it. Have changed chain and mpg improved by 5+% but the numbers I've seen are ALL over the place. Too many variables. I have moved the actual pump timing of a well running engine by almost 4 degrees and seen ABSOLUTELY no difference in fuel economy. In an engine not running nearly so well, a change of 2 degrees resulted in detectable improvement in fuel economy. Marshall Marshall, While looking through the 126 engine manual there was an exploded view of the chain along with various tensioning and slide rails and a chain tensioner. When changing the chain is there any of these other parts a person should consider changing or is the amount of work entailed not worth it. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] unique odometer reading
My favorite is when you see someone a picture with 99. Now that's a Mercedes. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] unique odometer reading Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 05:12:56 + I wish, in retrospect, that I'd reset the trip odometer to show 123456 up top and 1234 down below. But alas, I didn't have that much foresight.
Re: [MBZ] Torque converter torque
I have see on other engines that they advise to use locktite on these and the flex plate. It's been mentioned that you do not want these to back out. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD tight I'd guess that 25 ft-lb will hold them in Nothing different than other bolts of the same size Are they 8mm dia? At 05:08 PM 2/11/2006, you wrote: So, what is the torque for the six little bolts that fasten the torque converter to the driven plate (flex plate)? Or, where would you find such in the CD FSM?
[MBZ] power brake bleeder
Don, I have had this brand for the past 3 years and highly praise it for it's price, ease of use and quality. http://www.speedibleed.com/products/specialitykits2.php Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Message: 14 Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 09:41:50 -0600 From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] power brake bleeder To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 What's a good one to buy? I think the time has come to purchase one. Performance Products catalog has a Power Bleeder in two flavors, $50 and $65. -- 1977 240D 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
[MBZ] Movie car site
Every so often someone asks about cars in the movies. I was watching the Barrett Jackson auction last week and lo and behold someone emailed the program with this site. Thought I'd pass it on. http://www.imcdb.org/index.php Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] ADMIN: New web site
Kaleb, It would be nice to have a section showing sites on repair articles possibly broken down by models. That way someone new would access this as a library of information. You also wouldn't be interfering with any copyright infringements. Whenever a new site was found by a subscriber it could be added. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 4:37 PM To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list; Biodiesel Discussion List; SL List; 108 List Subject: [MBZ] ADMIN: New web site Starting the process of trying to figure out how to create a half way decent web site and will be needing some ideas as to content. Its y'alls site really so what do you want to see? Some of the stuff from mbz.org is up as far as articles go but Im not sure we should be coping that stuff directly. I dont think its copyrighted since its all just derived from posts over the years but still probably should. If anybody has any subjects for articles they would like to see, let me know. Will probably need volunteers to right up some articles for different repairs, mods or what not. Probably have a section for list members pictures, pictures of their cars and that sort of thing. Might also be nice to include the archives from the old lists if anybody has that stuff handy. Anyways, just give me your imput and will see what we can come up with.
Re: [MBZ] Background on service manuals
Marshall, Do you then purchase a DVD with microfiche files on it or what? Does anyone know the approx. price of these. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD It's real easy. They will be on microfiche. You buy all the microfiche then you have everything that's been published. The microfiche are COMPLETE. There is NO complete index of everything printed in manuals. Your best bet is to post a question on this list and someone usually knows where to find what you need. None of the manuals covering a single model printed since the early 70s have any transmission coverage. Marshall --
Re: [MBZ] trunk lock
Don't you love it when you have a problem that is exasperating and some comes up with this type of solution. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD I have a few suggestions: 1. Cut the top of the trunk open (with a torch), seal it with bed liner add some plumbing, water heater, champagne, girls and you have yourself a nice jacuzzi...heck, you might even be able to star in a rap video! 2. Cut out your back seats with a saw-saw (careful with sparks) insert a mattress and walla...you have a sedan camper. Dont forget to purchase sticker that reads when this sedan is a rockin, don't come a knockin 3. Screw the trunk! Who needs it?
Re: [MBZ] Oh boy
The seller represents it as a parts car. I call it part of a parts car. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-250C-COUPE-1971-MERCEDES-BENZ-250C-NICE-PARTS-CAR_W0QQitemZ4582778701QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
Re: [MBZ] Battery rplacement at the dealership
It's been mentioned before, but drive to the MB dealer park half a block away, walk into the dealership and tell them your car is down the block with a dead battery. They will drive down install it for free. I confirmed this with an mechanic at the MB dealership near me. Seems sort or ridiculous to me but they make the rules you are just playing by them. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD That is what I wish the Mercedes dealers I've met were like (I knew one that was ALMOST that great), but it's rare that I've heard of a dealer in the last 20 years not charging at least flat rate (often much more) for the service they provide. Perhaps MOST owners don't bother to report generous service or maybe most dealers are more interested in today's dollar than next week's, month's or year's repeat customer. Don't expect MOST MB dealers to install a battery in their shop free. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] sites that address voltage problems
I guess I should have stated the subject name better. I'm not advocating any of these sites myself, but I also realize that technology has improved over the years. For example the Optima style battery was not available when my car came out. I now have one because I feel it's has some advantages over a wet cell. It's technical specs rate it at being able to accept between 13.3 to 15 volts with no amperage limit. By the way if you look at the bottom of his site he does now sell an internally adjustable regulator. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Dennis - I have read through this site before. As I recall this fellow only deals with external, fender well mounted, regulators. I have had an ongoing problem with my SD where I felt that the alternator voltage might be too low. I installed a new Transpo adjustable regulator and adjusted the voltage output to about 14.2VDC. It turns out that the higher voltage didn't help my problem but now I know that low output voltage is not a contributing problem. BTW, the Transpo regulator was cheap, I think less than $20. Barry
Re: [MBZ] Transmission Fluid
Here is some tips from the archives, TIPS ON CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID Mickey, The BIGGEST problem is getting the torque converter drain plug into position! Once you have it lined up - PUT a paint mark on the crank damper so you can easily find it NEXT time!! Then a 5 mm hex (allen) to remove the plug and the fluid runs out. Replace the plug with a new washer (comes with the filter) and torque to - DUH - no manuals to look it up - I think it's about 20 ft-lbs, but CHECK IT! To refill - put 3-4 qts. of fluid into the transmission, start the engine and allow to run for a minute or so (run through the gears) to fill the torque converter, then shut down and add all but the last 1/2 qt of fluid. Then go for a 20-minute drive. When the fluid is HOT (after 15-20 minutes of driving) the level should be at the MAX mark - LOW and MAX marks are about 300 ml (a little more then 1/2 pt) apart. Add fluid 'til it near or at the MAX mark - DO NOT OVER FILL! With your transmissi0on the fluid should be about 10mm below the LOW/ADD mark when cold, but it's the warm/hot level that important. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Hello all, How much transmission fluid do I need to change the transmission fluid in my 1985 300SD, I'm going to drain the converter too. Also any tips would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Piles
[MBZ] sites that address voltage problems
To everyone, I thought that I'd pass on these two sites for discussion on the subject of low voltage (subjective) that the Bosch alternators put out. Has anyone dealt with these products and if so what do you think of them. For the price the adjustable regulator might be a consideration, especially if you have large demand systems in your car. I did read that if you spend a lot of time doing city driving at low RPM's a higher voltage might help bring the battery up faster. Again any thoughts on any of this? http://bartonharness.com/AdjustableVoltage.html http://bartonharness.com/AdjustableVoltage.html Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] Free MB dealership checkup
Tomorrow I've got an appointment to have a free MB checkup at my local dealership. I had it done about 5 years ago and it seemed okay, especially for free. I'm wondering if an;yone has also done this was it worth the time? Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] New voltage regulator
This weekend I put a new voltage regulator on my 84 300SD. At ikle with everything off I only get 11.80 volts peaking to 13.5 at about 2000 rpm. Is this okay or should I be thinking of a new alternator? If I do go with a new alternator, without changing any mounting hardware can I upgrade to a larger Bosch alternator? Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] Neutral safety switch
Lt. Don and all who contributed, Thanks for the info. I'm going to wtart with the switch then on to the ignition switch if that doesn't work. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Subject: Re: [MBZ] Neutral safety switch To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 It is on the side of the transmission, driver's side. It isn't difficult to get to if the car is on a lift or wheel ramps, but it is pretty close quarters if all four wheels are sitting on the pavement.
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 3, Issue 179
I tried the wriggling the shifter thing, both in park and neutral. No change. I am able to turn the ignition on jump the starter circuit under the hood. Then the car starts. Does anyone know if the neutral safety switch is bypassed when you start the car under the hood? If I know that I might be able to eliminate that circuit. Also how hard is the switch to replace. I have the electrical troubleshooting manual but the picture is horrid. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD First guess is that the transmission linkage is worn and the neutral safety switch is not always being closed with the shifter in park. Try moving the shifter to neutral. Marshall --
Re: [MBZ] Neutral safety switch
Is this switch readily accessible and would it be advisable to disconnect the battery, jump across the switch and try and start the car. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Yes, most of the starting circuit is by-passed when you start it from under the hood at the solenoid terminals. The neutral safety switch is the most common cause, but it could also be the ignition switch itself. I think it's time to crawl under the car and examine the switch on the side of the tranny, and the wires attached (hopefully) to it.
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 3, Issue 184
Royce, Thats one of the things I'll look at, but If the solenoid was bad I can't see the starter engaging at all. I have tried wriggling the shifter but that didn't help. I have the electrical troubleshooting manual and I'm going to try and track down what in the circuit can go wrong. I'm leaning towards an ignition switch or the neutral lockout. It was stated that the neutral switch is in line with the backup lights but whether that means anything or not I'll have to check. Thanks, Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Hi Dennis, I started my '85 300TD for a couple of years that way when it refused to start. In fact, I used to carry a short length of battery cable to jump directly from the battery to those terminals. I don't think I ever did any damage. I finally determined that the problem was the solenoid on the starter, the result of buying cheap rebuilt starters at the McParts places. When I figured that out, I bought a brand new Genuwyne Bosch starter that spins the engine faster and starts much better. Haven't had a problem since. Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K
[MBZ] 300SD starts sporadically
This weekend I went out to my car, an 84 300SD and when I turned the key I got nothing. I have a new battery in it. The headlights did not dim when I turned the key and I was able to start the car by turning on the ignition and jumping across the terminals in the box on the passenger side of the car under the hood. The next time I tried to start the car it started okay. Now I have to trace what is the problem the next time it happens. My question is when I jump the car through the box under the hood does that bypass the ignition switch? I'm thinking that it must be either the ignition switch or the starter lockout switch on the transmission. Any help would be appreciated. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
Re: [MBZ] OM617 Vacuum pump
Stuart The only thing I can think of is that there is a main line check valve that isn't included in the rebuild kit. It is the valve located at the vacuum side of the pump. You might as well replace that while you are in there. I'm going to send article directly to you on rebuilding because it will only get stripped on this site. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Hi, list! Yesterday, driving home, I heard an awful noise coming from the front of my car (w115 300D, OM617.910). As I pulled over, I noticed my power brakes were no longer power, and the car didn't shut off when I turned the key. Once I opened the hood, the reason was clear - the vacuum pump was no longer attached to the engine, and was hanging in place on its hoses, and the noise was it rattling against the fan (fortunately, it caused no significant damage to the fan, though there are a few nice chips out of one of the blades from one of the screw or bolt caps on the pump casing. Anyway, having ascertained that there doesn't appear to be anything missing from the inside of the pump (which looks dead simple, thoroughly attached and just like the new one on rusty's site), I've ordered a rebuild kit (pre-emptively, since it's already off) and a new gasket. I have a few questions, though: 1). Is there anything unusual or unobvious about putting it back on or rebuilding it? It looks like it ought to be simple, but there's nothing in the manual about it, so I thought I'd ask if there are any un-obvious snags. Do I have to lubricate or seal anything in the pump, or the new rubber bit for the rebuild? 2) Am I correct in thinking I just need to bolt it on with the new gasket? No sealant is necessary, yes? 3) What kind of bolts do I need? (Hoping someone knows, somehow!) Since mine *fell off*, I don't have any, and Rusty's people say MB doesn't carry those bolts anymore, so I'm going to have to buy some from a hardware store. If anyone has one lying around for some reason, the size and pitch and length would be very, very, very useful. Thanks a bunch in advance, Stuart S. 1976 300D w115 (OM617.910)
Re: [MBZ] 6 degrees of stretch
When I try to access this site I need an password. I've never been here before so can anyone send me in the right direction. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Good writeup on Mercedesshop forum. You MUST have a chain swager or equivalent, you don't want to use a master link (I've heard of more than one failing). You can hold the chain in place by hand with a helper or with wire ties (vise grips work too, but are a PITA). -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://striplin.net/mailman/private/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20050817/09997934/attachment.htm
Re: [MBZ] 126 front stabilizer broken--update
In seeing what it takes to replace the entire bar I would be inclined to try and weld it. I would make sure that you get someone who can really weld. I would check with companies that do it all the time. Putting reinforcing tubing over the weld might give you some extra satisfaction. Of course it must be exactly the right length and parallel to the old bar but a good welder should be able to accomplish that. Those bars must be quite stout and made of good steel and the weld will be stronger than the bar. I was looking at replacing the firewall bushings and have hesitated just for the reason of access. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] MB Tech companion
I just received my new copy of the Mercedes-Benz Technical Companion through Amazon.com. I paid $28.63 and after perusing through it I find it an exceptional book. It covers many different models and each section has tech ramblings which are short articles from the Star plus entries out of the technical and restoration forum. For people on this list I would highly recommend it. Just my two cents, Dennis Perkins 84 300SD
[MBZ] Re: 85 CD window woes
Eric, If it is like the 126 windows (like mine did) the last few teeth on the window regulator tend to wear down. This causes the window to just ratchet in place and not go upthe last inch or two. The teeth on the motor on mine were fine. MB windows electric motors don't stop automatically at the top and this may put extra stress on the regulator. I had to purchase a new one and it took about 2 hours to replace. Just make sure you are careful removing the inside door panel. They are held on with molded plastic ears that are part of the door panel. You must lift up on the door panel about 3/4 to 1 inch before removing the panel. If broken there is no way I have heard of to glue the tabs back on. Not a real hard job, just somewhat tight to get in and out. Of course lube everything inside while it is off. Contact me off list if you want more info. Hope this helps, Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Subject: [MBZ] 85 CD window woes To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 My 85 300CD passenger window is acting up a bit. it works well except it won't go up the final 1-2 inches. Anybody have any ideas? Is this likely a bent regulator, or just in need of lubrication? Haven't got around to pulling the door panel to look just yet. Eric 85 300 CD 81K
[MBZ] Re: MBZ Radio
I'm not sure what radio you have, but on my 84 300SD I have a Becker Brand Prix Electronc. I had the same problem and while visiting Aurora Auto Wrecking in Seattle (near where I live) they showed me that the faceplate was replaceable without having to replace the entire radio/tape player. For about $50 I got a new radio facepiece. Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Subject: [MBZ] RADIO To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I have a working radio from a 85 300D, the LCD screen is messed up doesn't show all the numbers for the station or time but it does hold preset. still works for a radio never tested the tape player.
[MBZ] RE: OM603 oil pressure question
Marshall, If my memory is correct most MB diesels idle at about 3 bar (on the gauge). This equates to 43+ psi. An idling engine really only needs less than 10 psi to get the oil around at idle. 0.3 bar is about 4 psi and wouldn't even measure on the gauge. Are you saying that the gauge can read actually read less than 1 bar and still be in the normal range at Idle? Dennis Perkins 84 300SD Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pressure question There are NO published specs I've ever seen beyond the must be greater than 0.3 bar at idle and at least 3 bar at 3000 rpm. Those numbers are low (but safe). The most common failing is the is of the O rings on the stem. They will result in low idle pressures (but usually still above the min) and some lifter clatter. If the grommet inside the oil filter is disp[laced when the filter is installed, pressure will read even lower than if the O rings are bad. Most (75+%) of the pressure problems I've seen reported are caused by one of those being the problems. If the relief valves (they open in the 5-6 bar range) fail open, pressure will not peg when it should at engine speeds in the 2500-3000 rpm range. There's one in the filter housing (but I've never hear of it failing) and one at the oil pump (I know of half a dozen or more of them failing - all on older OM61x or OM621 engines). Finally the pump CAN fail and then usually both hot idle pressure AND mid rang rmp pressure are both low or nil. Marshall
