Re: [MBZ] 124 95E320
FLoyd, Struts, strut mounts, and likely the front LCA need to be replaced. If Wilton's parts are in your shed, they may work. In theory you can replace the bishings in the LCAs, but from a practical standpoint, most just buy new LCAs. I have 2 sets of W124 LCAs in need of bushings, but they are S, and I am not. Check tie rods and idler arm bushings too. A 124 with the suspension right, is like a race car: rocket on rails. On Mon, Jun 7, 2021 at 1:09 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > So I’ve been driving the daughter unit’s former car and I like it. It’s in > decent shape, I put new front brake pads on it and replaced driver door > window regulator so that works well now. Drove it today for first time > with AC on and it BLOWS ICE COLD. I recall she had to get it recharged last > summer so it has held since then which is good. > > The steering is a little vague. I’m wondering if the box can be tightened > up or maybe it has to do with the front struts as I think they might be > getting to where they need to be changed as they seem to clunk a lot. Rear > shocks too maybe. Any thoughts on the steering? I’ll have to see what > struts cost, rear shocks probably not that much > > --FT > Sent from iPhone > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 124 300D electric fan control
Alles: THe electric fan is not running on my 300D. FOrtunately it was not as hot today, only in the 90s. I believe the fan is controlled by one of the switches at the top front of the OM603. Can anyone tell me which switch, and how to connect or ground or power wires to make the fan run constantly. Woger content: only ran 700 miles today in a car woger is convinced nobody runs. Day one of a 1100 mi each way trip. The air cond BLOWS ICE COLD. A handy thing. Yesterday it did not. Had to replace a hose. only 25 years of service. Thanks to all And to Rusty who supplied all the suspension components so it runs like a new car now. Engine sounds wonderful! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124 300D electric fan control
I am headed out to try that. Any idea where the relay is? I hope that shorting those together will make the fan run. If not I will try powering the resistor Black/white. If that does not work, I will hunt for the relay. On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 7:21 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote: If the low speed isn't running, either the switch on the receiver/dryer is bad or the resistor is shot. Pull the two wires with pigtails off and short them together, the fan should run. If not, the resistor is open or the relay is bad. Fan will run any time the ignition is on with the two wires shorted. Peter __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124 300D electric fan control
Well, shorting the two wires from the side of the rec/dryer with the ign on did not make the fan run. I don't have a wire to try the resistor. Is it the ceramic one in front of the ABS? The diagram is very hard to see. Seems like the problem may be FUSE fan or relay. I will check the fusebox in the morning. I just thought of that option. I was figuring a temp switch was bad, but maybe not. On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:52 PM, Diesel Head 126die...@gmail.com wrote: I am headed out to try that. Any idea where the relay is? I hope that shorting those together will make the fan run. If not I will try powering the resistor Black/white. If that does not work, I will hunt for the relay. On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 7:21 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote: If the low speed isn't running, either the switch on the receiver/dryer is bad or the resistor is shot. Pull the two wires with pigtails off and short them together, the fan should run. If not, the resistor is open or the relay is bad. Fan will run any time the ignition is on with the two wires shorted. Peter __**_ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair - I Surrender
I think I stuck a block of 2x4 maybe like 1 1/2 x 1 3/4 or 2 in there that wedged in and held the flap open. I never tried to take the blasted thing apart. On Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 10:06 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote: I'm finally over that #$%@ cold that sidelined me for about a month and the day was warm, so I went back to work on my floor heat problem. It was completely frustrating. I've given up fixing this @#$% thing. It's so cramped in there I don't see any way to even glue it without removing the entire heater assembly, which involves draining coolant and recovering R12. That's too much. I've already removed everything but the dash and steering wheel and there's just no way to get at the broken parts, even just to glue them. My back seat is full of center console, floor mats, dash under panels, HVAC ducts, etc. (hope I can get it all back together). My plan at this point is to rig up a string to manually hold the floor-heat flaps open in winter. I'm thinking about anchoring it to the pax flap, running through an eye inside the driver-side flap and then coming out a hole on the pax side flap. Then I can just pull on the string (and hook it to something) to open both flaps. If the friction is low enough, they should still blow closed when the string is released. Thanks to all for your advice but that are is just too inaccessible to fix it right. But I'm still open to new ideas -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Scott Ritchey Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 5:20 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair For some years, the floor heat in my 1982 300SD hasn't worked. Limited investigation showed that the floor heat flaps moved freely (as if no connection to any linkages) so the flaps simply blew shut when the blower ran. We had a spell of warm weather (50s F) so I decided to attack the problem this week. Now the back seat is full of floor mats, center console, under dash panels, etc. Here's what I discovered so far. These flaps (one left and one right) have a splined shaft at the top and that's what broke. So the flaps need to be replaced. The right flap cost is reasonable (like $40) but the left is outta sight (like $200). Here's an operating schematic: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/floor_heat_schematic Here's the general layout: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/heater_case Here's what the parts actually look like: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/parts Note the splines on top end of the flap shaft. The black parts go on the left and the white parts on the right. The white lever-gear snaps apart into the lever/gear (top) and a keeper that snaps in from below to lock it in place On the left flap, a lever arm slides onto the splines and snaps into the heater case: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/left_flap_lever On the right side, a gear slides onto the splines and that gear mates with another gear with a lever similar to the left side. http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/right_flap_gears The metal action bar that engages the ends of both of these levers such that when the bar moves left the left both flaps open. The action bar has a 90 degree arm pointing down and the vacuum element pulls the bar left under vacuum and moves it right via the element's return spring. So much for sharing what I've learned so far. Now here's my current problem. As a minimum, I think I must separate the upper and lower heater case to install the new flaps. I don't know if I can spread the lower case (from the upper case) sufficiently with the heater box still in the car and I don't want to discharge the R12 AC system or pull the dash and steering wheel. If I have to pull the heater box from the car to fix this, I'll just try to put it all back together and learn to live with the problem (i.e. not use the car in winter). So my question is. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace these flaps with the heater case still in the car??? Thanks. Scott in NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or
Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles
The R65 is kind of the 300D of BMWs. the R50/5 is the 240D. R65 is no speed demon, but one that you can spend 100 miles. 250 miles, 500 miles or even 1000 miles in a day. I just read a great letter in the BMW (MOA) news. It was about how the old airhards keep working reliably, and the japcrap works but the expensive fancy new BMWs (K I think) leave them stranded and in need of being loaded on a truck and hauled in to a very distant stealer. I gathered they had a pair of /5 or /6, a pair of japanese and a pair of newer one. My old 75/5 is reliable. the alt is undersized if you hang one extra bulb on it. THe diode boards are known to fail. THe points can burn. But I carried a new clutch cable and the last set of used points, and I was never stranded. Never had trouble with points or coil. With a /5 or /6 you can pretty much do anything but a bottom end overhaul with the toolkit under the seat. Yes, you need to adjust the valves regularly. The clutch can be grabby. they have idiosyncrasies, but they get you there and back. On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:07 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: I know we've got some motorcycle heads on here... I'm thinking this is the year for me to get a different ride, right now we've got an '89 Kawasaki 454 LTD for the wife and an '82 Honda CB900f for me. She didn't ride at all last year and I only rode a little. Part of it is the Honda isn't really a highway bike and my commute is all highway. I'd ride a standard or sport/touring bike more. The Honda's forward lean is too uncomfortable for my wrists long term. So I've started looking and found an '82 BMW R65 with only 70,000 miles. My Honda has 45k, that kind of mileage doesn't scare me although it does some folks. I remember reading somewhere (here maybe) that some of the older BMWs were a handful because they were kind of primitive. I guess I need some guidance. I'm thinking to spend not more than $2000 which is more than both bikes I have now combined. Remember I live in New England, our riding season is kind of compressed. I usually get the bikes out in May and we're done by October. Sometimes theres a run into November but not often so a big money bike ain't happening. -Curt ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles
On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 8:24 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I've never ridden a Goldwing, but a buddy had one for years. He was always fiddling with the carbs on it. A gold wing is not a motorcycle, it is just half an accord with no doors. A hardly Davison (post 1980 or so) is not a motorcycle. It is just external cajones for those who lack real ones. Any hardly (any vintage) with loud pipes/no pipes qualifies here. Any post 80 ( or so) hardly with OE mufflers is exempted from this description. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
