Re: [MBZ] Non MB: Re: Movie of miniature V8

2006-01-11 Thread macknox
That was beyond cool! Wow! I have heard of guys doing this, but to 
actually see and hear it run is amazing.


On 7 Jan 2006 at 18:23, Howard Fulford wrote:

 Found it !
 
 Have a look at this guy's site ...
 
   http://www.weberprecision.com
 
 
 Howard Fulford
 Bath
 England
 
 190E '89, 136972 miles
 
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield can't be wiped?

2006-01-05 Thread macknox
Thanks everyone!

Tomorrow, when Reggie Bush isn't trying to beat Vince Young I will 
give all these suggestions a try!

Kevin


On 4 Jan 2006 at 9:45, John M McIntosh wrote:

 I had this problem a month, turned out my wife after getting the 90's  
 wagon very dirty had washed it at the local
 wand based car wash and sprayed it (against my historical  
 recommendations) with evil wax.
 
 Cheefully discovered this the next rainy night when I couldn't see  
 much other than smeared something on windshield.
 
 This refused to be removed by using windex. However dawn dish  
 detergent remove it with lots of Elbow grease.
 
 Other things to try is Clay (that I have done), and I've heard 000  
 steel wool (but I've not tried that)
 
 On 4-Jan-06, at 4:32 AM, Tom Scordato wrote:
 
  Kevin
 
  If tension is ok in wiper blade arms, clean windshield real well  
  with a
  sponge and warm dish soap water.   Use elbow grease.
 
 John
 1983 300TDt  360k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
 1990 300TDt  157k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
 1993 500SEL 170k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)
 
 
 
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[MBZ] Windshield can't be wiped?

2006-01-04 Thread macknox
I don't know what's wrong with my windshield, but the wiper will not 
clear the water off of it. It just kind of smears it around. This is with 
wipers of 3 different brands, including Bosch and Napa's teflon 
blade. There is good spring tension pressing down on the blade. 

Could there be some kind of chemical on my windshield making this 
happen? Maybe an old dose of RainX? Maybe car wash liquid 
wax? Is there any way to get it off?

Sorry to pester everyone with such a dumb question.

Kevin

'91 300D 156000 mi
'84 300TD 216000 mi
:`( '87 190D RIP and sold to Mitch




Re: [MBZ] Merry Christmas, Friends

2005-12-22 Thread macknox

Too good!


On 21 Dec 2005 at 15:10, Bob Rentfro wrote:

 My apologies to Mr. Moore:
 
 
 
 Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the list
 Blockheaters were plugged in...cold weather persists.
 The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
 In hopes that packages from Rusty soon would be there.
 
 The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
 While visions of 240Ds (4 speed, of course) danced in their heads.
 And mamma in her 'kerchief and a beautiful corsage,
 Knew I was getting ready to go to the garage .
 
 When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
 It sounded like an OM 617 with something the matter.
 Away to the window I flew like a flash,
 I tripped over a jackstand now I'm bleeding from a gash.
 
 The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
 Made me think the POS cars in the yard could get up and go.
 Then, what to my wondering eyes should I see,
 But a perfectly maintained mid-'80s 190D.
 
...
 They spoke not a word, but went straight to their work,
 And torqued everything with the wrench (Nm, of course) with a jerk.
 And then waving his hands like the big rappers do,
 He said,Let's roll fellers, our work here is through!
 
 He sprang to his 190D, all Christmas arrayed ,
 And they all piled in like Shriners in a parade.
 But I heard him exclaim, as I puffed my Christmas cigar,
 Happy Christmas to all, and TAKE CARE OF YOUR CARS! 
 
 
 
 Bob Rentfro
 
 '77 300D 145K
 
 Litchfield Park, AZ
 
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Re: [MBZ] Idle is getting scary rough. - Hue Wong

2005-11-13 Thread macknox
Hue!

I was wrong. I am sorry I didn't check the mounts. It looks like the 
previous owner only replaced one of the mounts, and now the other 
one has failed. 

I did not know there was a procedure for checking them, or I sure 
would have done so. 

I live and learn. Thanks for trying to steer me right,

Kevin



On 10 Oct 2005 at 17:01, hue wong wrote:

 Check the moter mounts!  This made a HUGE difference
 in my 300td and the synmptoms sound aobu thte same...
 
 
 --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  check the delivery valves.
  
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started
  idling rough. It 
   came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I
  had an '87 190D 2.5T 
   and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at
  155k, so I put some 
   injectors in it. 
   
   Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing
  better, but the idle is 
   getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made
  a difference, but 
   they did not seem to affect the problem much at
  all. It seems to be 
   getting worse, though that might just be the
  temperature dropping. 
   
   What else should I be looking at?
   
   Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ.
  It just hates to idle. 
   The idle is rough enough to make my CD player
  skip, though. 
   
   Thanks for any tips. 
   
   Kevin
   
   
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89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
  Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
  
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 Online Streaming Film festival
 
 
   
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Re: [MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

2005-11-08 Thread macknox
Wow. Yeah, I was measuring the wrong thing entirely. Thanks, Marshall. I will 
check 
that. 

I was also surprised to see your reference. I went through the whole manual 
last 
week, and didn't see anything like that. Well, I learned something new about my 
manual tonight! I did not know about the programmed repairs. 

Found this interesting note:
Combustion noise (rumbling) when idling up to about 1300 rpm. 
---
Remedy:
Set start of delivery to 13 degrees after TDC
Replacing injection nozzles does not offer any remedy.
No further Remedy possible. 
---

This note applies to engines without EGR. I wonder if this could indicate an 
EGR 
problem? I believe I have EGR, but have not checked to see whether it is 
working. 
Non-functional EGR has always seemed like a good thing. to a rookie like me. 

I have not checked my timing, but there are no other symptoms of timing 
problems, 
so I don't suspect it. 

Maybe there is just no remedy. 

More after next weekend! Thanks again!



On 7 Nov 2005 at 9:44, Marshall Booth wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Thanks, Marshall,
  
  Both of my engine mounts look good, if I understand what you have 
  told me. There is almost a 1 rubber cone with like a rounded 
  aluminum cup sitting on top of it. That makes the aluminum cup of 
  the mount more than an inch above the chassis. So, I guess they 
  are in good shape. 
  
  I have taken weeks to look into this, because of trying to get my 
  daughter's new car in shape, etc. That line of problems is still active, 
  so I think I am just going to live with this idle for a long while. I hate 
  it, but I cannot think of a good way to test the idle solenoid, the 
  nozzles are new, the delivery valves almost never go bad, and it 
  runs great under normal load. 
 
  
  On 24 Oct 2005 at 20:04, Marshall Booth wrote:
 
  The factory mounts usually last a LOT longer than 70kmi (but the 
  aftermarket ones sometimes don't). Fortunately failure of the motor 
  mounts on a 124 series car are easy to check objectively. If there is 
  1/2 (actually 13 mm) clearance between the notch and the chassis the 
  mount is fine. If less than 1/2 the mount needs to be replaced.
 
 See picture here: http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A700016346CFW.JPG
 
 The notch that I referred to above is clearly apparent on the left side 
 (there one on the other side too) of the picture in the link and there 
 must be at least 1/2 (13 mm) clearance or the mount has collapsed and 
 must be replaced. Mercedes recommends making a tool that's 13 mm thick 
 to check the condition of the mount.
 
 See page 3-4: 
 http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/Prog_Repairs/mech5.pdf
 
 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
 turbo 237kmi
 
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Re: [MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

2005-11-07 Thread macknox
Thanks, Marshall,

Both of my engine mounts look good, if I understand what you have 
told me. There is almost a 1 rubber cone with like a rounded 
aluminum cup sitting on top of it. That makes the aluminum cup of 
the mount more than an inch above the chassis. So, I guess they 
are in good shape. 

I have taken weeks to look into this, because of trying to get my 
daughter's new car in shape, etc. That line of problems is still active, 
so I think I am just going to live with this idle for a long while. I hate 
it, but I cannot think of a good way to test the idle solenoid, the 
nozzles are new, the delivery valves almost never go bad, and it 
runs great under normal load. 

Kevin



On 24 Oct 2005 at 20:04, Marshall Booth wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  It has been pointed out to me a few times that engine mounts can 
  cause apparent engine vibration. How long do they usually last? I 
  think the ones in my 91 300D 2.5t are about 70k miles old. I would 
  have thought they would still be good, but 
  
  Thanks.
  
  Kevin
 
 The factory mounts usually last a LOT longer than 70kmi (but the 
 aftermarket ones sometimes don't). Fortunately failure of the motor 
 mounts on a 124 series car are easy to check objectively. If there is 
 1/2 (actually 13 mm) clearance between the notch and the chassis the 
 mount is fine. If less than 1/2 the mount needs to be replaced.
 
 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
 Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] O/T My Tool Box

2005-11-03 Thread macknox
Old, but I still laugh every time. Thanks.


On 2 Nov 2005 at 17:58, Peter Arnold wrote:

 I also subscribe to a Metropolitan list where we bemoan Lucas
 electrical problems and such.  This post was made recently with the
 hopes of improving our shop skills.

 How many of these tools are you proficient with?

 Tools and Their Uses.

 DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
 metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest
 and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
 freshly painted airplane part you were drying.

 WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere
 under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint
 whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you
 to say, Ouch

 ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
 holes until you die of old age.

 PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

 HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
 principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
 motion, a nd the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
 dismal your future becomes.

 VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
 available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to
 the palm of your hand.

 OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various
 flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the
 grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

 WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
 motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or
 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

 HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
 after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack
 handle firmly under the bumper.

 EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile
 upward off a hydraulic jack handle.

 TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

 PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another
 hydraulic floor jack.

 SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
 spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog off your boot.
 E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any
 known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

 TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on
 everything you forgot to disconnect.

 CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably
 has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the
 handle.

 AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

 TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called
 a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, the sunshine
 vitamin, which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health
 benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at
 about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during,
 say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark
 than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
 paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be
 used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

 AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
 power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
 travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
 bolts last over tightened 58 years ago by someone at ERCO, and neatly
 rounds off their heads.

 PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
 bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50ยข part.

 HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.

 HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
 used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not
 far from the object we are trying to hit.

 MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
 cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
 well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
 bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic
 parts.

 EXPLETIVE: A balm, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which
 somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every
 deficiency in foresight.

 --

 Peter T. Arnold
 Windsor, Connecticut
 U.S.A.

 1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 233 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

 1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 192 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

 2002 PT Cruizer, 77 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

 1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

 None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)

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 To 

Re: [MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

2005-10-26 Thread macknox
On 24 Oct 2005 at 20:04, Marshall Booth wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  It has been pointed out to me a few times that engine mounts can 
  cause apparent engine vibration. How long do they usually last? I 
  think the ones in my 91 300D 2.5t are about 70k miles old. I would 
  have thought they would still be good, but 
  
  Thanks.
  
  Kevin
 
 The factory mounts usually last a LOT longer than 70kmi (but the 
 aftermarket ones sometimes don't). Fortunately failure of the motor 
 mounts on a 124 series car are easy to check objectively. If there is 
 1/2 (actually 13 mm) clearance between the notch and the chassis the 
 mount is fine. If less than 1/2 the mount needs to be replaced.
 

Ah! As soon as I get my daughter's new car squared away, I will 
check it out. Thank you, Marshall!


 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
 Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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[MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

2005-10-24 Thread macknox
It has been pointed out to me a few times that engine mounts can 
cause apparent engine vibration. How long do they usually last? I 
think the ones in my 91 300D 2.5t are about 70k miles old. I would 
have thought they would still be good, but 

Thanks.

Kevin





Re: [MBZ] Anyone know how to test delivery valves?

2005-10-20 Thread macknox
On 19 Oct 2005 at 10:00, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 the seal, not the valve, that was what I was talking about.  I think I 
 just said valve.
OK. 

 you just crack each line while its idling to see which one doesnt make 
 it worse, or makes it worse the least.  After that, you will want to 
 probably swap injectors to see if the problem follows the injector. 
 While you have them out you could probably check compression as well. 
 If the compression is good, and the problem doesnt follow the injector, 
 then the delivery valve is probably bad.  In fact, if you just do the 
 injector swap and it doesnt move, then its probably the valve.  Doubt 
 the compression would be low.
I understand. I was never very good at doing the by ear thing on 
injectors. I have done this process three times, and no one cylinder 
is especially bad yet. They all have the same effect. I have replaced 
the injectors, and the problem is different, but not better really. 

Sometimes it actually sounds like I am missing on one cylinder, and 
other times it almost purrs. I need to carry a wrench and 
troubleshoot it when next time it sounds bad, no matter how I am 
dressed. 

Thanks, Kaleb!

Kevin


 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Kaleb suggested I check the delivery valves on my '91 300D 2.5 
  turbo, as a possible source of my rough idle. 
  
  Is the only way to check them to physically remove and inspect 
  them? How involved is doing that?
  
  Kevin
  
  
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 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
 
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone know how to test delivery valves?

2005-10-20 Thread macknox
On 18 Oct 2005 at 23:33, Marshall Booth wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Kaleb suggested I check the delivery valves on my '91 300D 2.5 
  turbo, as a possible source of my rough idle. 
  
  Is the only way to check them to physically remove and inspect 
  them? How involved is doing that?
  
  Kevin
 
 There is NO test for delivery valves EXCEPT to put the injection pump on 
 a test stand. That's one expensive test - usually $300+ after the cost 
 of removing the pump from the car - especially since valve failure is 
 VERY rare. Most experienced techs will inspect the valves and replace 
 the seals IF everything else is working perfectly (cost for that fr .
 
 Delivery valves almost NEVER fail (the seals do occasionally fail). I 
 have replaced only one BROKEN delivery valve (about 35-36 years ago).
 
I'm not really surprised to hear you say this. On the old Cat engines I 
worked on so long ago it was pretty easy to pull and check one or all 
of the injectors, but they were different. I too only found like 2 of 
them bad in 10 years, and really it was pretty easy to isolate. 

Is there any really decent check for the idle actuator? Can I pull it 
out and sweep test it somehow? Can I send 12v to it and see 
whether the idle climbs steadily?

My problem seems to be intermittent (aren't they all?) so it sounds 
electrical. The best test is to replace the part and see whether it 
gets better, but at $420 per play, it's not an exciting game. 

Thanks for the warning. 

Kevin



 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
 Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone know how to test delivery valves?

2005-10-20 Thread macknox
On 19 Oct 2005 at 22:22, Mitch Haley wrote:

 Kevin:
 Did you ever Diesel Purge either of your stumbling 2.5s?
The funny thing is that this one was idling like a champ until the first 
one was hit. Right now the going suggestion around here is that a 
spirit was exorcised out of the one car and into the other after the 
accident. The locals all want me to try chicken bones and salt. 

I have been running cleaner in the fuel, but have not really purged it. 
I suppose that I need to put that on my agenda. 

I have a can of the stuff, but it's a couple years old. Don't know if it 
keeps well. 

Kevin




 
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone know how to test delivery valves?

2005-10-20 Thread macknox
On 19 Oct 2005 at 21:39, OK Don wrote:

 I'd think that an un-opened can would be fine. I'd also try cleaning
 all the relevant eletrical connections.
Wilco

 
 Have you replaced ALL the fuses?
Never even thought of it, but I will make it so. 

Thanks!

Kevin

 
 
  I have a can of the stuff, but it's a couple years old. Don't know if it
  keeps well.
 
  Kevin
 
 
 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
 The FSM created the Diesel Benz
 http://www.venganza.org/
 
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[MBZ] Anyone know how to test delivery valves?

2005-10-19 Thread macknox
Kaleb suggested I check the delivery valves on my '91 300D 2.5 
turbo, as a possible source of my rough idle. 

Is the only way to check them to physically remove and inspect 
them? How involved is doing that?

Kevin




Re: [MBZ] Idle is getting scary rough.

2005-10-18 Thread macknox
On 10 Oct 2005 at 21:40, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Marshall,
  
  Check the idle actuator and the overvoltage protection relay. 
  Intermittent of either can result in poor idle and perfectly fine 
  operation under load.
 
 So, the actuator is Y22 on the diagram, and the relay is K1/1. I see 
 the picture of the relay in the manual, but it doesn't indicate the 
 actuator as having a picture. I should be able to follow the BR/BU 
 wire to it, though. I don't know what readings to expect normally, but 
 I will see what happens when I take a look at it. 
 
Marshall,

I replied to this on 10/10, but I replied to 3 people in one message, 
so you probably didn't see it. 

I am starting to notice the problem under light load as well, so I am 
leaning toward thinking the delivery valves may be my culprit. When 
I disconnect the actuator solenoid, the engine speed drops to under 
500 rpm, but continues to run, and continues to sound rough. It 
stays pretty stable; it just seems to be hammering on one cylinder. 

Every now and again, no matter whether the actuator is plugged in 
or not, it fuels heavily for a stroke or two. My suspicion is that the 
idle actuator might be trying to compensate for misfires due to the 
delivery valves. Either way, at $420, it might be cheaper to throw 
delivery valves at the engine than an actuator. 

Any chance I'm right?

Thanks.

Kevin



   
About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started
   idling rough. It 
came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I
   had an '87 190D 2.5T 
and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at
   155k, so I put some 
injectors in it. 

Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing
   better, but the idle is 
getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made
   a difference, but 
they did not seem to affect the problem much at
   all. It seems to be 
getting worse, though that might just be the
   temperature dropping. 

What else should I be looking at?

Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ.
   It just hates to idle. 
The idle is rough enough to make my CD player
   skip, though. 

Thanks for any tips. 

Kevin


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   -- 
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 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
   Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
   
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Re: [MBZ] Idle is still scary rough.

2005-10-18 Thread macknox
On 10 Oct 2005 at 21:40, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Kaleb, 
 
  check the delivery valves.
 
 Are they located inside the individual pumps inside the injector 
 pump assy? So, I would pull 5 five pumps, separate them, inspect 
 the valves, and replace any that looked bad? I don't see any 
 information in my manual on getting into the pump. I have 
 experience doing this on other engines, if it is necessary, but I am 
 probably not equipped for it. 
 

I replied to you, Kaleb, with this question back on the 10th. I replied 
to 3 people in 1 message, though, so I'm sure you did not see it. 

Either you or Marshall seems to be right on this. How would I check 
these valves? I have been inside many Caterpillar 3406 pumps, but 
haven't a clue what to do inside this one. What tools do I need? 
What extra parts (o-rings, seals?). It looks like ~$200 to just throw 
some valves at it, so I just might. Are they regular maintenance 
items?


 -
 
 Marshall,
  
  Check the idle actuator and the overvoltage protection relay. 
  Intermittent of either can result in poor idle and perfectly fine 
  operation under load.
 
 So, the actuator is Y22 on the diagram, and the relay is K1/1. I see 
 the picture of the relay in the manual, but it doesn't indicate the 
 actuator as having a picture. I should be able to follow the BR/BU 
 wire to it, though. I don't know what readings to expect normally, but 
 I will see what happens when I take a look at it. 
 
 Thank you. 
 
 
   
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started
   idling rough. It 
came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I
   had an '87 190D 2.5T 
and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at
   155k, so I put some 
injectors in it. 

Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing
   better, but the idle is 
getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made
   a difference, but 
they did not seem to affect the problem much at
   all. It seems to be 
getting worse, though that might just be the
   temperature dropping. 

What else should I be looking at?

Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ.
   It just hates to idle. 
The idle is rough enough to make my CD player
   skip, though. 

Thanks for any tips. 

Kevin


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   -- 
   Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
   Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
   
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   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  
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  http://perceptionfest.com
  Online Streaming Film festival
  
  
  
  __ 
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  Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
  http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
  
  ___
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[MBZ] Idle is getting scary rough.

2005-10-11 Thread macknox
About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started idling rough. It 
came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I had an '87 190D 2.5T 
and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at 155k, so I put some 
injectors in it. 

Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing better, but the idle is 
getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made a difference, but 
they did not seem to affect the problem much at all. It seems to be 
getting worse, though that might just be the temperature dropping. 

What else should I be looking at?

Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ. It just hates to idle. 
The idle is rough enough to make my CD player skip, though. 

Thanks for any tips. 

Kevin




Re: [MBZ] [Banned] OT, converting CD's to mp3

2005-10-02 Thread macknox
To elaborate a little on redghost's answer, yes, Mac does have a 
way to mechanically remove a CD from any drive. You need a 
straightened paperclip. Poke it into the hole redghost mentions, and 
it will rachet the tray out. 

The cool thing is that with a Mac you never need it.


On 1 Oct 2005 at 15:27, redghost wrote:

 Little poke a hole to pop out on the extreme right hand of every drive 
 I know of.
 
 On Tuesday, September 27, 2005, at 03:19 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:
 
  M. Mitchell Marmel wrote:
 
  1.  Buy Mac.
 
  2. Launch iTunes.
 
  3. Insert CD.
 
  4.  Hit 'Import' button.
 
 
  Just don't try it with a badly scratched or copy-protected CD, or you
  might never get it back.  There are some lock-up bugs in the CD-ROM
  drives on Macs, and Apple is still the only computer manufacturer that
  doesn't provide *any* means of mechanically ejecting a CD that the 
  drive
  won't eject itself.
 
 
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 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner
 
 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] One Dimesional Blower Motor

2005-09-18 Thread macknox
I'm sold. What do we do now?

Kevin



On 1 Sep 2005 at 15:06, frederick w moir wrote:

 Hi, All.
   If the Benz list were for one dimensional people, I'd have to go 
 elsewhere! You even put up with me!! (mostly).
   Whoever needed a blower motor for a 190/300 car, my local JY wants $30 
 and 
 take it out yourself. I could do this, if you would pay shipping.
   Sorry to be so thrifty, but I just got dumped (retired, HAH!)
 TTFN
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel Thingummybobs etc.
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] New Orleans looting

2005-09-03 Thread macknox
Yes! Yes! Yes!

Preach it, Ken.

On 2 Sep 2005 at 11:57, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Seems odd doesn't it that the government is expected to take care of all 
 those poor defensless 
 people in NO. Are the ones demanding rescue now the same ones who failed to 
 heed the 
 MANDATORY evacuation of the city BEFORE the hurricane hit? Are those who are 
 now without 
 food and water the same ones who scoffed and berated the government for 
 telling them to 
 prepare for chemical and boilogical attacks a year or so ago? Did they have 
 their 3 days of food 
 and water put away for disasters? Hasn't the government been preaching that 
 you need to be self 
 sufficient for at least 3 days after a disaster? We're now in the fourth day 
 and according to the 
 Black Congressional Congress spokesman this morning infants are dieing due 
 to lack of 
 formula, people are dieing due to lack of food and water. One day without 
 food and water 
 causes death? 
 
 Or are these people the ones who believe the government should protect them 
 from everything? 
 Being a part of emergency services (fire dept) for the past 26 years has 
 showed me that very few 
 people actually think it could happen to them. Well, a good portion of the 
 south is now learning a 
 lesson.
 
 To that man who was rescued from his attic who was critical of how long it 
 took rescuers to get to 
 him and then said he didn't leave because HE DIDN'T THINK IT WOULD BE THAT 
 BAD, You 
 caused your own problem. I feel no sympathy. You're a selfish bastard who is 
 taking resources 
 that should be used for someone else. 
 
 There are some legitimate reasons for still being in the City and needing 
 help. First, some poor or 
 indigent folks simply didn't have a method to leave. Some stayed for 
 essential services. Some 
 were actually there to help restore services when the storm was over. If they 
 need help they 
 deserve anything we can do. To those who stayed and are now looting, they 
 should be shot. 
 (mandatory gun content)
 
 To the Red Cross who is collecting money to help the effort, screw you! When 
 your Chairman 
 lowers his almost $500,000.00 salary down to a reasonable level I might start 
 contributing again. I 
 urge my friends to donate to local efforts with real people doing real work. 
 Not large organizations 
 who continually boost thier salaries and benefits using charitable 
 contributions. 
 
 During 9-11, the International Assoc Of Firefighters used volunteer and 
 current staff time to collect 
 and distribute funds to those in need. Check with your own unions, your local 
 charities, the 
 helplines and volunteer aid societies to find a place to donate to that 
 uses 100% of the money 
 for help to those in need. They are out there, look for them and donate to 
 them. People who don't 
 have the money to run $50,000.00 ads about what good work we do. (cost of 
 producing the ad, 
 the stations donate the airtime to run them)
 
 Yes I'm a cold hearted bastard who doesn't feel any compassion. Think about 
 it though, shouldn't 
 we take a little responsibility for our own actions?
 
 Ken
 
 
 In a message dated 9/1/2005 8:05:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
 PROTECTED] 
 writes:
 From: JabbaHursty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] GUNS AND THE REALITY
 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
 
 it has to do as well with the government having given up on the 
 concept that they are even vaguely responsible for the protection of 
 its citizens. I'm no longer sure they still even acknowledge any 
 responsibilities.
 
 look at how as i type this they continue to stand by and allow the 
 carnage in new orleans to continue unabated.
 
 useless bastards still never forget to come for your money though
 
 





Re: [MBZ] A VERY serious topic

2005-09-02 Thread macknox
Good call. We have nothing but friends out there when we are 
offering enough support. 


On 1 Sep 2005 at 21:11, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 I'm pretty sure that all the countries who were whining about the US not 
 doing enough for the 
 Tsunami victims will be sending millions of dollars of aid. Because of course 
 they know exactly 
 how to help. I believe France is leading the charge.
 
 Ken
 
 
 In a message dated 9/1/2005 5:00:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
 PROTECTED] 
 writes:
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Harry ?M.) )
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] A VERY serious topic -- put away yer guns, email
   clients,  taxes, and bad dogs
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mercedes mailing list)
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
 Been watching the news here about whats going on there. Was told my 
 former Guard unit 
 may be on ready alert to assist in the evac and help with food and water. 
 Some have 
 already volenteered to go on their own. Considering whats going on in the 
 middle east it 
 just makes you wonder who will be there for us 
 
 





Re: [MBZ] Heater motor for '87 190D - Help, please?

2005-09-01 Thread macknox
I know that someone here had a reliable contact for an electric 
motor rebuilder who did a lot of Mercedes stuff. Can someone 
please remind me of the name?

I cannot let my daughter face the winter without a defroster, and it is 
right around the corner already. Anyone have a good source for a 
decent heater motor? 

Kevin


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Re: [MBZ] One Dimesional Blower Motor

2005-09-01 Thread macknox
Let me dig around a little bit this weekend, but I'm the one. If I don't find 
anything remarkable, $30, shipping, and whatever you charge would 
be great news. I would thank you if you could take a moment to 
throw 12v to it and make sure it works before you pull it. 

I will give you a definite answer some time this weekend. 

Sorry about the dumping

And to make sure I have some gun content, I have 5, ranging from 
black powder to a .357. Expert qualified. Never used one in anger. 
Seldom even load them. 

Kevin


 Hi, All.
   If the Benz list were for one dimensional people, I'd have to go 
 elsewhere! You even put up with me!! (mostly).
   Whoever needed a blower motor for a 190/300 car, my local JY wants $30 
 and 
 take it out yourself. I could do this, if you would pay shipping.
   Sorry to be so thrifty, but I just got dumped (retired, HAH!)
 TTFN
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel Thingummybobs etc.
 
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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