Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-29 Thread LarryT

Thx Jim -
I read the procedure 20-015 you mentioned and it was very easy to follow 
except for a comment saying to replace the coolant overflow tank with one 
containing Silica Element  - for my 602-96X Turbo that means pn 124 500 18 
40.


But I didn't see any reason for *why* the coolant exp tk needs to be 
replaced.


Any ideas?  Also - why the Silica Element?   I thought Silica was the stuff 
that removes moisture from packaged electronics and such.


Thx -
LarryT
'91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2009 11:19 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system


Thank you.  Printed and added to repair notes.

Jim


On Nov 27, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:37:05 -0500 Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net

wrote:


Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non  foaming.  A
few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive  about 20
miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid
cleaning.


And note that citric acid is NOT the same thing as citrus cleaner!

You really want citric acid.

BTW. The factory manual, Section 20-015, says,

==

A. De-oiling

1. Completely drain cooling system.

2. Remove thermostat element and set heater lever to warm.

3. Fill cooling system with a 5% solution of water and P3 Standard  (made
  by Henkel) (50 grams P3 / liter of water).

  Attention: On vehicles with ALUMINUM RADIATOR, a neutral cleaner  such
  as P3 Croni (made by Henkel) or Grisiorn 7220 (made by Farbwerke
  Hoechst) must be used instead of the heavily alcaline [sic]  cleaner P3
  Standard.

4. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  deg.F) 
and

  hold this temperature for about 5 minutes.

5. Stop engine and permit cooling system to cool down to approx. 50 
deg.C

  (122 deg.F).

6. Completely drain solution.

7. Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh  water, 
run

  warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.


B. Decalcification, derusting.

ATTENTION!

Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling system, even if 
there

is no visible oiling-up.

1. After second fluching job during de-oiling, fill cooling system  with 
a

  10% (100 g/l) solution of water and citric acid, tartaric acid or
  oxalic acid (sold by the chemical trade), while giving preference to
  citric acid.

2. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  deg.F) 
and

  hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature.

3. Stop engine and permit to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C (122  deg.F).

4. Completely drain decalcification solution.

5. Flush cooling system at least three times with fresh water, while
  running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge.

  Badly calcified cooling systems may require a repetition of the
  treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and  repeat
  flushing steps.

6. Install thermostat element with a new seal.

7. Fill the cooling system with specified coolant specification for
  service products page 310 to 325).


NOTE: For decalcification and derusting, commercial products named  with
 the acids nemed [sic] above may also be used.

Chromic acid or products containing chromates are prohibited by sewage
regulations.

= ==

Pay attention that you do NOT drive your car with the thermostat 
removed.
Benz engines do not cool properly with the thermostat removed. Some 
people

have used old thermostats that have been wedged completely open with a
short piece of brass tubing (like a shell casing).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-29 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 08:58:33 -0500 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 I read the procedure 20-015 you mentioned and it was very easy to follow
 except for a comment saying to replace the coolant overflow tank with
 one  containing Silica Element  - for my 602-96X Turbo that means pn 124
 500 18  40.
 
 But I didn't see any reason for *why* the coolant exp tk needs to be 
 replaced.

The Section 20-015 I quoted was written in 1982; 124s didn't exist then,
so I can't say why Mercedes added a silica element.


 Any ideas?  Also - why the Silica Element?   I thought Silica was the
 stuff that removes moisture from packaged electronics and such.

Silica gel is the dessicant (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel).
Silica is related, but different (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-29 Thread OK Don
I think it's for corrosion reduction. I remember something similar related
to the 450SLC when I was messing with it.

On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 6:39 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.netwrote:

 On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 08:58:33 -0500 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

  I read the procedure 20-015 you mentioned and it was very easy to follow
  except for a comment saying to replace the coolant overflow tank with
  one  containing Silica Element  - for my 602-96X Turbo that means pn 124
  500 18  40.
 
  But I didn't see any reason for *why* the coolant exp tk needs to be
  replaced.

 The Section 20-015 I quoted was written in 1982; 124s didn't exist then,
 so I can't say why Mercedes added a silica element.


  Any ideas?  Also - why the Silica Element?   I thought Silica was the
  stuff that removes moisture from packaged electronics and such.

 Silica gel is the dessicant (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel).
 Silica is related, but different (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica)


 Craig


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-28 Thread Rick Knoble

From: Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org

This isn't a secret, right?

http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm



You guys know about this, right?


IIRC, it used to be a pay website. I am surprised MBUSA hasn't shut it down.

Rick 



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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-28 Thread Jim Arnott

On Nov 28, 2009, at 9:49 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:


From: Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org

This isn't a secret, right?

http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm



You guys know about this, right?


IIRC, it used to be a pay website. I am surprised MBUSA hasn't shut  
it down.


Rick


web.archive.com is the Wayback Machine.  Good luck closing it down.  
Might as well try to shut Google.com down.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott
Thank you all.  Detergent followed by citrus cleaner after repair.  So  
be it.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Peter T. Arnold
Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non foaming.  A 
few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive about 20 
miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid cleaning.


--
Pete Arnold
2007 HHR
'95 F-250 P.S.D.
'54 Metropolitan {Hanger Queen}
Looking at used D/P

Member of Escapees 
National Camping Travelers, A Masonic Family Camping Club

Jim Arnott wrote:
Thank you all.  Detergent followed by citrus cleaner after repair.  So 
be it.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:37:05 -0500 Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net
wrote:

 Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non foaming.  A 
 few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive about 20 
 miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid
 cleaning.

And note that citric acid is NOT the same thing as citrus cleaner!

You really want citric acid.

BTW. The factory manual, Section 20-015, says,

==

A. De-oiling

1. Completely drain cooling system.

2. Remove thermostat element and set heater lever to warm.

3. Fill cooling system with a 5% solution of water and P3 Standard (made
   by Henkel) (50 grams P3 / liter of water).

   Attention: On vehicles with ALUMINUM RADIATOR, a neutral cleaner such
   as P3 Croni (made by Henkel) or Grisiorn 7220 (made by Farbwerke
   Hoechst) must be used instead of the heavily alcaline [sic] cleaner P3
   Standard.

4. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176 deg.F) and
   hold this temperature for about 5 minutes. 

5. Stop engine and permit cooling system to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C
   (122 deg.F).

6. Completely drain solution.

7. Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh water, run
   warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.


B. Decalcification, derusting.

ATTENTION!

Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling system, even if there
is no visible oiling-up.

1. After second fluching job during de-oiling, fill cooling system with a
   10% (100 g/l) solution of water and citric acid, tartaric acid or
   oxalic acid (sold by the chemical trade), while giving preference to
   citric acid.

2. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176 deg.F) and
   hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature.

3. Stop engine and permit to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C (122 deg.F).

4. Completely drain decalcification solution.

5. Flush cooling system at least three times with fresh water, while
   running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge.

   Badly calcified cooling systems may require a repetition of the
   treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and repeat
   flushing steps.

6. Install thermostat element with a new seal.

7. Fill the cooling system with specified coolant specification for
   service products page 310 to 325).


NOTE: For decalcification and derusting, commercial products named with
  the acids nemed [sic] above may also be used.

Chromic acid or products containing chromates are prohibited by sewage
regulations.

===

Pay attention that you do NOT drive your car with the thermostat removed.
Benz engines do not cool properly with the thermostat removed. Some people
have used old thermostats that have been wedged completely open with a
short piece of brass tubing (like a shell casing).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott

Thank you.  Printed and added to repair notes.

Jim


On Nov 27, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:37:05 -0500 Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net 


wrote:

Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non  
foaming.  A
few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive  
about 20

miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid
cleaning.


And note that citric acid is NOT the same thing as citrus cleaner!

You really want citric acid.

BTW. The factory manual, Section 20-015, says,

==

A. De-oiling

1. Completely drain cooling system.

2. Remove thermostat element and set heater lever to warm.

3. Fill cooling system with a 5% solution of water and P3 Standard  
(made

  by Henkel) (50 grams P3 / liter of water).

  Attention: On vehicles with ALUMINUM RADIATOR, a neutral cleaner  
such

  as P3 Croni (made by Henkel) or Grisiorn 7220 (made by Farbwerke
  Hoechst) must be used instead of the heavily alcaline [sic]  
cleaner P3

  Standard.

4. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  
deg.F) and

  hold this temperature for about 5 minutes.

5. Stop engine and permit cooling system to cool down to approx. 50  
deg.C

  (122 deg.F).

6. Completely drain solution.

7. Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh  
water, run

  warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.


B. Decalcification, derusting.

ATTENTION!

Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling system, even if  
there

is no visible oiling-up.

1. After second fluching job during de-oiling, fill cooling system  
with a

  10% (100 g/l) solution of water and citric acid, tartaric acid or
  oxalic acid (sold by the chemical trade), while giving preference to
  citric acid.

2. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  
deg.F) and

  hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature.

3. Stop engine and permit to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C (122  
deg.F).


4. Completely drain decalcification solution.

5. Flush cooling system at least three times with fresh water, while
  running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge.

  Badly calcified cooling systems may require a repetition of the
  treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and  
repeat

  flushing steps.

6. Install thermostat element with a new seal.

7. Fill the cooling system with specified coolant specification for
  service products page 310 to 325).


NOTE: For decalcification and derusting, commercial products named  
with

 the acids nemed [sic] above may also be used.

Chromic acid or products containing chromates are prohibited by sewage
regulations.

= 
==


Pay attention that you do NOT drive your car with the thermostat  
removed.
Benz engines do not cool properly with the thermostat removed. Some  
people

have used old thermostats that have been wedged completely open with a
short piece of brass tubing (like a shell casing).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread harry watkins

Same here, that's a keeper, thanks.

Harry
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2009 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system



Thank you.  Printed and added to repair notes.

Jim


On Nov 27, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:37:05 -0500 Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net

wrote:


Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non  foaming.  A
few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive  about 20
miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid
cleaning.


And note that citric acid is NOT the same thing as citrus cleaner!

You really want citric acid.

BTW. The factory manual, Section 20-015, says,

==

A. De-oiling

1. Completely drain cooling system.

2. Remove thermostat element and set heater lever to warm.

3. Fill cooling system with a 5% solution of water and P3 Standard  (made
  by Henkel) (50 grams P3 / liter of water).

  Attention: On vehicles with ALUMINUM RADIATOR, a neutral cleaner  such
  as P3 Croni (made by Henkel) or Grisiorn 7220 (made by Farbwerke
  Hoechst) must be used instead of the heavily alcaline [sic]  cleaner P3
  Standard.

4. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  deg.F) 
and

  hold this temperature for about 5 minutes.

5. Stop engine and permit cooling system to cool down to approx. 50 
deg.C

  (122 deg.F).

6. Completely drain solution.

7. Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh  water, 
run

  warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.


B. Decalcification, derusting.

ATTENTION!

Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling system, even if 
there

is no visible oiling-up.

1. After second fluching job during de-oiling, fill cooling system  with 
a

  10% (100 g/l) solution of water and citric acid, tartaric acid or
  oxalic acid (sold by the chemical trade), while giving preference to
  citric acid.

2. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  deg.F) 
and

  hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature.

3. Stop engine and permit to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C (122  deg.F).

4. Completely drain decalcification solution.

5. Flush cooling system at least three times with fresh water, while
  running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge.

  Badly calcified cooling systems may require a repetition of the
  treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and  repeat
  flushing steps.

6. Install thermostat element with a new seal.

7. Fill the cooling system with specified coolant specification for
  service products page 310 to 325).


NOTE: For decalcification and derusting, commercial products named  with
 the acids nemed [sic] above may also be used.

Chromic acid or products containing chromates are prohibited by sewage
regulations.

= ==

Pay attention that you do NOT drive your car with the thermostat 
removed.
Benz engines do not cool properly with the thermostat removed. Some 
people

have used old thermostats that have been wedged completely open with a
short piece of brass tubing (like a shell casing).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:23:21 -0600 harry watkins
harry...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Same here, that's a keeper, thanks.

You're welcome.

I hadn't sent it earlier because of the amount of typing, but in between
batches of turkey soup I decided to give it a go.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread E M
Thanks, the typing was worth the effort, I saved a copy too. ;-)

Ed
300E

2009/11/27 Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net

 On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:23:21 -0600 harry watkins
 harry...@bellsouth.net wrote:

  Same here, that's a keeper, thanks.

 You're welcome.

 I hadn't sent it earlier because of the amount of typing, but in between
 batches of turkey soup I decided to give it a go.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott

This isn't a secret, right?

http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm

I managed to suck up all but about 100 pages of the factory manual here.

You guys know about this, right?

Jim

On Nov 27, 2009, at 8:27 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:23:21 -0600 harry watkins
harry...@bellsouth.net wrote:


Same here, that's a keeper, thanks.


You're welcome.

I hadn't sent it earlier because of the amount of typing, but in  
between

batches of turkey soup I decided to give it a go.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:39:37 -0800 Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org wrote:

 This isn't a secret, right?
 
 http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm
 
 I managed to suck up all but about 100 pages of the factory manual here.
 
 You guys know about this, right?

We've heard about it before, but I tend to forget, particularly since I
have all the W123 manuals in paper and got a copy of the W124 manual CD
from John Robbins (I was actually going to buy one, but Mercedes has
discontinued it).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
If oil is leaking into the coolant passages then I'd clean afterwards. If 
coolant is leaking into oil then I don't think it matters. Not sure what to 
degrease it with. Dawn? Of course you  might also want to perform the citric 
acid flush afterwards.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 25, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org wrote:

We have a plan Looks like the head gasket replace on the 2.6 190e is going 
to happen next weekend (Dec 4).  With a cooling system that is well oiled, what 
is the list wisdom regarding cooling system cleaning? Before or after the 
replace? Suggested products? (With as much oil as there is in this system, Tide 
might be a good choice.) I live where it hard freezes at night, so I think I'm 
either going to need some thing that works with coolant or I'm going to need 
something that works right now.

BTW, dau #2 effing loves the car.

Thanks in advance.

Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Dave Walton
You don't want bubbles. Automatic dishwasher detergent will degrease  
without foaming up.


-Dave Walton

On Nov 25, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org wrote:

We have a plan Looks like the head gasket replace on the 2.6  
190e is going to happen next weekend (Dec 4).  With a cooling system  
that is well oiled, what is the list wisdom regarding cooling system  
cleaning? Before or after the replace? Suggested products? (With as  
much oil as there is in this system, Tide might be a good choice.) I  
live where it hard freezes at night, so I think I'm either going to  
need some thing that works with coolant or I'm going to need  
something that works right now.


BTW, dau #2 effing loves the car.

Thanks in advance.

Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Mitch Haley


If you're mixing oil and coolant, you probably don't want to get detergent in 
the oil system. Also, you don't want to flush it out with soap and water before 
taking it apart if freezing is a possibility. I'd fix it first, then flush the 
oil out of the cooling system, then change the oil and replace the coolant.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Jim Cathey
You don't want bubbles. Automatic dishwasher detergent will degrease 
without foaming up.


You don't want grit, either.  Washing machine soap of some sort
seems best to me.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Jim Cathey
you don't want to flush it out with soap and water before taking it 
apart if freezing is a possibility.


This is a good use of the block heater, if you can't get it
all done in one session (cleaning, flushing, new coolant).
The heater will keep it from freezing 'til your next session.
(So, of course, will most garages.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread Peter T. Arnold

I'm thinking that Mother Benz specifies a citric acid douche.

Back in the day, I use plain water with a few ounces of TSP {AKA Spic  
Span}, it would clean a dirty mind after a 20 mile drive.


Happy Thanksgiving, while we are thankful for what we have, let us 
remember those who will be in need during this season.



--

Pete Arnold

Faith is knowing there is an ocean because you have see a brook.
-William Arthur Ward-


Jim Cathey wrote:
You don't want bubbles. Automatic dishwasher detergent will degrease 
without foaming up.


You don't want grit, either.  Washing machine soap of some sort
seems best to me.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-26 Thread OK Don
Last I remember, the sequence was to remove the oil with a detergent type
cleaner (the Prestone kits at the FLAPS), followed with the citric acid
flush to remove the scale/calcium deposits. Since it's leaking now, I'd do
all this after re-assembly.

On Thu, Nov 26, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 I'm thinking that Mother Benz specifies a citric acid douche.

 Back in the day, I use plain water with a few ounces of TSP {AKA Spic 
 Span}, it would clean a dirty mind after a 20 mile drive.

 Happy Thanksgiving, while we are thankful for what we have, let us remember
 those who will be in need during this season.


 --

 Pete Arnold

 Faith is knowing there is an ocean because you have see a brook.
 -William Arthur Ward-



 Jim Cathey wrote:

 You don't want bubbles. Automatic dishwasher detergent will degrease
 without foaming up.


 You don't want grit, either.  Washing machine soap of some sort
 seems best to me.

 -- Jim



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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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[MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-25 Thread Jim Arnott
We have a plan Looks like the head gasket replace on the 2.6 190e  
is going to happen next weekend (Dec 4).  With a cooling system that  
is well oiled, what is the list wisdom regarding cooling system  
cleaning? Before or after the replace? Suggested products? (With as  
much oil as there is in this system, Tide might be a good choice.) I  
live where it hard freezes at night, so I think I'm either going to  
need some thing that works with coolant or I'm going to need something  
that works right now.


BTW, dau #2 effing loves the car.

Thanks in advance.

Jim


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