Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-08 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Hit the delete button, thats what its for.  As far as clogging up your box, 
this thread has been a very small part of the overall list traffic.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset


 Nothing personal here guys, but what does?this have to do with Mercedes? 
 Just inquiring because this post has been up for quite some time now and 
 its clogging up my mail box. Could this discussion be done off the site? 
 Please...


 Harry
 69 280 SEL
 72 350SL ?
 04 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata ?


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Jim Cathey
The value of D9, assuming it was a glass Zener diode, is a bit of a
problem.  Based on the clamping voltage of the MOV (82V), and the
maximum working voltage of C1 (25V), R2 must have at least 30 mA
through it for C1 to be protected at clamp time.  That would mean that
R5 would be dropping 12 V, leaving another 12 V at D9's cathode.  D9
would have to be conducting by then, else C1 would be over-voltaged.
So it's at most a 12 V Zener, and can't be a glass Diac (which has a
breakover voltage higher than that).

If D9 was a forward-biased signal diode R3 must have approximately 0.5
mA through it before Q3 can start conducting, that would pin D9's
_anode_ voltage (the cathode in the schematic) at around 1 V when
regulation began.  R4/R1's current would be approximately 0.7 mA, so
R5's current would be 1.2 mA.  That would make the voltage on C1
approximately 1.5 V, which seems too low.

 From this I conclude that D9 _is_ a Zener diode, of less than 12 V in
value.  Zener diodes start at around 1.8 V in value, but I think I'll
first try something like a 6 V rating.  The 1N6309-20 diodes are glass,
at 2.4-6.8 V in rating.  1N6319 is a 6.2 V glass Zener.  1N746A-59A are
glass, at 3.3-12 V in rating.  1N753A is also a 6.2 V glass Zener.
There are plenty of candidates to try.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:25:34 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 The value of D9, assuming it was a glass Zener diode, is a bit of a
 problem.  Based on the clamping voltage of the MOV (82V), and the
 maximum working voltage of C1 (25V), R2 must have at least 30 mA
 through it for C1 to be protected at clamp time.  That would mean that
 R5 would be dropping 12 V, leaving another 12 V at D9's cathode.  D9
 would have to be conducting by then, else C1 would be over-voltaged.
 So it's at most a 12 V Zener, and can't be a glass Diac (which has a
 breakover voltage higher than that).

What is the power rating of R2? 30 mA through 2 k is 1.8 watts.
Likewise, what is the rating of R1?

What if the MOV is intended only to clip transients and spikes? The time
constant of R2 and C1 is 0.44 s, which is a long time for transients and
spikes. It also gives a pole at 0.36 Hz for the feedback loop (with the
yellow winding is the feedback sense winding).


 If D9 was a forward-biased signal diode R3 must have approximately 0.5
 mA through it before Q3 can start conducting, that would pin D9's
 _anode_ voltage (the cathode in the schematic) at around 1 V when
 regulation began.  R4/R1's current would be approximately 0.7 mA, so
 R5's current would be 1.2 mA.  That would make the voltage on C1
 approximately 1.5 V, which seems too low.

Not to mention that the temperature coefficient of a signal diode would
make for lousy regulation.

Note also that the R1 + R4 combination can vary 3:1 in resistance, a
rather wide range for adjustment.


  From this I conclude that D9 _is_ a Zener diode, of less than 12 V in
 value.  Zener diodes start at around 1.8 V in value, but I think I'll
 first try something like a 6 V rating.  The 1N6309-20 diodes are glass,
 at 2.4-6.8 V in rating.  1N6319 is a 6.2 V glass Zener.  1N746A-59A are
 glass, at 3.3-12 V in rating.  1N753A is also a 6.2 V glass Zener.
 There are plenty of candidates to try.

Indeed there are. 6.2 V is a good starting place and is near the zero
temperature coefficient point of the series of diodes.

I still wonder about Q6 and D11. If you're conducting through D11, Q6 has
to be off. If Q6 is on, D11 cannot be conducting. In this case the stored
energy in the red-green winding has to forward-bias the body diode of Q6.

BTW, do Q1 and Q2 have any heat sinking? I certainly hope so, particularly
if they're run in the linear region.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Jim Cathey
I pulled Q1 and Q2 off the board, one was shorted C-E, the other
appears OK.  I pulled R1 and it's a 2k trim pot, set almost exactly in
the middle.  The resistors, at least, seem to be marked with their
values on the board's silk screen.  The potting will probably make
most of these illegible.  Q1 and Q2 had their emitters labeled E.

I wonder what the original failure really was?  If the imbalance of
Q1/Q2, due to the lack of emitter resistors, caused Q1 (let's say) to
get too hot in a positive feedback cycle instead of sharing the load
with Q2 and then short out, regulation would have stopped.  There
would be full field applied, and the generator would have gone
over-voltage.  This could have caused the feedback winding to
over-voltage the MOV, shorting it and then burning out the diode
bridge and finally the board trace.  But what, then, stopped
generation?  It is without a doubt that the thing wasn't generating
anymore when I got it.  D11 seems OK, there's nothing else there to
block field current.  Even if Q6 were shorted (which it isn't) R9
could only cut back the field current, not eliminate it.

It's a mystery!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 10:14:43 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 It is without a doubt that the thing wasn't generating anymore when I
 got it.  D11 seems OK, there's nothing else there to block field
 current.  Even if Q6 were shorted (which it isn't) R9 could only cut
 back the field current, not eliminate it.

How stiff a voltage/current source is the blue winding?

Were you able to get it to generate by putting voltage on the field
(red-green) winding? I forget.


 It's a mystery!

Indeed.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Jim Cathey
 What is the power rating of R2? 30 mA through 2 k is 1.8 watts.
 Likewise, what is the rating of R1?

Those are on the schematic sheet.  R2 is your basic small resistor.
What is that, 1/4W?  R1 is a small 10-turn trim pot.  Nothing notable
about either one.

 What if the MOV is intended only to clip transients and spikes? The 
 time

That's all they're actually good for!  I was just doing some
worst-case math to see where it led me.

 Note also that the R1 + R4 combination can vary 3:1 in resistance, a
 rather wide range for adjustment.

More than that, R1 is actually a 2k unit that was set at 1k.

 I still wonder about Q6 and D11. If you're conducting through D11, Q6 
 has
 to be off. If Q6 is on, D11 cannot be conducting. In this case the 
 stored
 energy in the red-green winding has to forward-bias the body diode of 
 Q6.

That whole area is pretty mysterious.  If Q6 were back-conducting,
current would be limited by R9.  There's another, beefier, back
path through D11/D13.

 BTW, do Q1 and Q2 have any heat sinking? I certainly hope so, 
 particularly
 if they're run in the linear region.

They're yoked together with a little piece of aluminum bent
in a U.  Not much area at all, a couple of square inches tops.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Jim Cathey
 How stiff a voltage/current source is the blue winding?

Stiff, I'm guessing, because of the 3A diodes.  It has to supply
all the field current.  It measures 0.5 ohms with the Fluke.
In this class of machine, however, it's intended to be limited
to roughly what the field needs.

The yellow winding measures 0.1 ohms.

 Were you able to get it to generate by putting voltage on the field
 (red-green) winding? I forget.

Yes, once the brushes were replaced.  With a battery charger feeding
the field I only get 20V.  With a 12V battery in series with the
charger I got about 95V out of the generator.  Both into a 500W
work lamp.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 10:52:26 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Were you able to get it to generate by putting voltage on the field
  (red-green) winding? I forget.
 
 Yes, once the brushes were replaced.  With a battery charger feeding
 the field I only get 20V.  With a 12V battery in series with the
 charger I got about 95V out of the generator.  Both into a 500W
 work lamp.

That's encouraging.

Considering the 250 V rating of C2, 24 V across the field isn't much.

What's the voltage across the blue winding in these conditions?


Craig

P.S. I just remembered I have a copy of Electric Power System Components:
 Transformers and Rotating Machines, by Robert Stein and William T.
 Hunt, Jr. Unfortunately (after looking just now) the only chapter it
 has on generators is on synchronous generators, running a synchronous
 motor as a generator -- which is not the case here. Oh well.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Jim Cathey
 Considering the 250 V rating of C2, 24 V across the field isn't much.
 What's the voltage across the blue winding in these conditions?

Don't know yet.  I'm going to have to start messing with that
stuff, probably after I get the regulator starting to go back
together.  With a 12V field I did measure 4V on one and 8V
on the other, I didn't note which was which.  I'm assuming
it was 8V on Blue.  The main outputs were at 20V.  Scaling
linearly, at rated output Blue ought to be 48V, and Yellow 24V.

 P.S. I just remembered I have a copy of Electric Power System 
 Components:
  Transformers and Rotating Machines, by Robert Stein and William 
 T.
  Hunt, Jr. Unfortunately (after looking just now) the only chapter 
 it
  has on generators is on synchronous generators, running a 
 synchronous
  motor as a generator -- which is not the case here. Oh well.

I have books like that too.  This _is_ a synchronous machine,
that book would probably apply.  But there are those extra two
excitation output windings...  (Blue and Yellow.)

Books like that tend to gloss over the regulator's role, I've found.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread mykd1
Nothing personal here guys, but what does?this have to do with Mercedes? Just 
inquiring because this post has been up for quite some time now and its 
clogging up my mail box. Could this discussion be done off the site? Please...


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 2:41 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset



So, anybody electronical out there care to critique the
recreated original regulator schematic?  It's mostly
complete, though some of the component values are possibly
off.  My best guess for D9 is that it was a Zener diode,
but if somebody else though differently based on the circuit
that would be nice to hear about.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread Tom Hargrave
Harry,

We routinely get off subject with this list  it's been brought up before. I
believe that the general consensus is that it's OK since we all still share
the same general interests.

I suggest you do what I do, follow the threads you are interested in 
delete the rest.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:49 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

Nothing personal here guys, but what does?this have to do with Mercedes?
Just inquiring because this post has been up for quite some time now and its
clogging up my mail box. Could this discussion be done off the site?
Please...


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 2:41 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset



So, anybody electronical out there care to critique the
recreated original regulator schematic?  It's mostly
complete, though some of the component values are possibly
off.  My best guess for D9 is that it was a Zener diode,
but if somebody else though differently based on the circuit
that would be nice to hear about.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-07 Thread mykd1
Yea I know, I tend to do that myself and I'll admit it doesn't hurt to change 
the topic once in a while. Guess the same old gets a bit boring at times...It 
could just be I have no clue as to what the heck everyone is talking about


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 10:54 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset



Harry,

We routinely get off subject with this list  it's been brought up before. I
believe that the general consensus is that it's OK since we all still share
the same general interests.

I suggest you do what I do, follow the threads you are interested in 
delete the rest.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:49 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

Nothing personal here guys, but what does?this have to do with Mercedes?
Just inquiring because this post has been up for quite some time now and its
clogging up my mail box. Could this discussion be done off the site?
Please...


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 2:41 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset



So, anybody electronical out there care to critique the
recreated original regulator schematic?  It's mostly
complete, though some of the component values are possibly
off.  My best guess for D9 is that it was a Zener diode,
but if somebody else though differently based on the circuit
that would be nice to hear about.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-06 Thread Jim Cathey
So, anybody electronical out there care to critique the
recreated original regulator schematic?  It's mostly
complete, though some of the component values are possibly
off.  My best guess for D9 is that it was a Zener diode,
but if somebody else though differently based on the circuit
that would be nice to hear about.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-06 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 6 Oct 2007 12:41:59 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 So, anybody electronical out there care to critique the
 recreated original regulator schematic?  It's mostly
 complete, though some of the component values are possibly
 off.  My best guess for D9 is that it was a Zener diode,
 but if somebody else though differently based on the circuit
 that would be nice to hear about.
 
 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

It seems close to the right idea overall, but has a number of quirks:

It's strange that they take all the trouble to make sure Q6 gets turned
off well (with Q5 AND D11), but have not provided anything to turn Q1 and
Q2 off.

D10 is in a wierd location, too, since there's no way for current to flow
that way.

The current in the red-green winding will always flow from red to green
(unless there's induction from somewhere else), so Q6 is the wrong
polarity to dump its current. Q6 will only add to the current flowing
through D11.

If Q3 is turned on, Q4 (and thus Q1 and Q2) will be off and Q5 will be
off. R11 will reverse bias D11 and turn Q6 on, but if current has been
flowing in red-green, now having nowhere to go, it will flip the polarity
on red-green so that green is positive and red is negative. This will
forward bias the body diode of Q6, which will clamp the green wire at 0.7V
above the potential of C2. But why a transistor for Q6? Strange.

D12 is the correct polarity to protect Q5 from polarity reversals of the
red-green winding, and D13 will clamp the base of Q6 close to the positive
rail, with the current first flowing through D11 in those instances, but
why go to all that bother?

Also, C4 and R6 provide POSITIVE feedback for Q3, Q4, Q1, and Q2, not
negative. Is this thing supposed to oscillate and D9, et al., provide
pulse-width oscillation?

On the other hand, if the red-green winding has current induced in it, so
that it's a current source rather than a current sink, and has current
flowing from green to red, then the polarity of D10 and Q6 make sense. But
here it would be powering the circuit instead of the blue winding, the
upper bridge, and C2. And when Q6 turns on, it would be shorting the
output of the red-green winding (which appears to be not a good thing).
Also, if D10 is conducting, D11 will be reverse biased and turning Q1 and
Q2 on only pulls down on the base of Q6, and they don't need two
darlingtons to do that.

Strange.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-06 Thread Jim Cathey
 It's strange that they take all the trouble to make sure Q6 gets turned
 off well (with Q5 AND D11), but have not provided anything to turn Q1 
 and
 Q2 off.

D11 may be for turn-off, but it's also the main current path for the
field.  Orienting it in the schematic was one of the difficult parts.
I had it like D12 before, and just couldn't see the main current
flow.

 D10 is in a wierd location, too, since there's no way for current to 
 flow
 that way.

Not normally, I think of it as a GP protection device.  Generators
are probably a rather harsh environment!

 The current in the red-green winding will always flow from red to green
 (unless there's induction from somewhere else), so Q6 is the wrong
 polarity to dump its current. Q6 will only add to the current flowing
 through D11.

Yes.  I think one of the major features is that it _intends_ to
burn the excess available power from the main excitation winding.

I have no proof yet, but I think there are two excitation windings
because one of them is a third-harmonic winding that generates more
as the machine is overloaded.

 If Q3 is turned on, Q4 (and thus Q1 and Q2) will be off and Q5 will be
 off. R11 will reverse bias D11 and turn Q6 on, but if current has been
 flowing in red-green, now having nowhere to go, it will flip the 
 polarity
 on red-green so that green is positive and red is negative. This will
 forward bias the body diode of Q6, which will clamp the green wire at 
 0.7V
 above the potential of C2. But why a transistor for Q6? Strange.

R9 is the biggest resistor there, it's obviously intended to burn
lots of power.  It's apparent to me that Q6's job is to put R9 (at
10 ohms) in parallel with the 15-ohm field under whatever conditions
it thinks appropriate to cut the field current.

 D12 is the correct polarity to protect Q5 from polarity reversals of 
 the
 red-green winding, and D13 will clamp the base of Q6 close to the 
 positive
 rail, with the current first flowing through D11 in those instances, 
 but
 why go to all that bother?

It's a rather large winding, if there are load dumps that cause the
regulator to want to cut off the field current the spike could be
hellacious.  Henries of inductance?

 Also, C4 and R6 provide POSITIVE feedback for Q3, Q4, Q1, and Q2, not
 negative. Is this thing supposed to oscillate and D9, et al., provide
 pulse-width oscillation?

That _is_ weird.  It certainly could be PWM regulation.  There's
enough filter inductance in the field to smooth it out.  C3 provides
negative feedback, could it be enough to cancel out the positive?
I believe C3 and C4 are the same value.  They were badly damaged,
but they're both the same size, and they're those green-dipped
film jobs.  Thin chiclets.

 On the other hand, if the red-green winding has current induced in it, 
 so
 that it's a current source rather than a current sink, and has current
 flowing from green to red, then the polarity of D10 and Q6 make sense.

Such induction would be transient, at best.  Under normal conditions
the field (R/G) winding is fed some 60+ volts.  If you don't feed it
plenty you don't get enough output voltage on the main windings.

 But
 here it would be powering the circuit instead of the blue winding, the
 upper bridge, and C2. And when Q6 turns on, it would be shorting the
 output of the red-green winding (which appears to be not a good thing).
 Also, if D10 is conducting, D11 will be reverse biased and turning Q1 
 and
 Q2 on only pulls down on the base of Q6, and they don't need two
 darlingtons to do that.

 Strange.

Indeed!

I am wondering if this thing is worthy of resurrection, and if so,
what improvements to make to it.  I already intend to put the MOV
in the middle of the 2K R2 (using 2 1k resistors) so that if it
fails again it won't burn out the diode bridge, again.  I intend
to fuse all three windings, and I intend to put small (0.1 ohm?)
emitter resistors on Q1 and Q2.

So was my schematic layout all that it should be?   I'm open
to rearranging it if it'll help aid in understanding it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-06 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 6 Oct 2007 16:39:42 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Strange.
 
 Indeed!
 
 I am wondering if this thing is worthy of resurrection, and if so,
 what improvements to make to it.  I already intend to put the MOV
 in the middle of the 2K R2 (using 2 1k resistors) so that if it
 fails again it won't burn out the diode bridge, again.  I intend
 to fuse all three windings, and I intend to put small (0.1 ohm?)
 emitter resistors on Q1 and Q2.

These sound like good things to do.


 So was my schematic layout all that it should be?   I'm open
 to rearranging it if it'll help aid in understanding it.

That's exactly how I would have drawn it myself. It's very straightforward
(the drawing, not the circuit, as we've already discussed) and easy to
understand.

Good job.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Frederick W Moir
Hi, Jim.
I'm sure that you found this, but:-
http://iscsemi.cn/hot.asp

www.szcanyi.com/showpic.asp?id=24

Made in China. (where else?)

Fred Moir
Lynn MA




At 09:53 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Frederick W Moir
Jim C.


http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/105045/SANYO/TT2142.html

Fred Moir

At 09:53 AM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
that is stupid.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
 to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
 I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
 With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
 suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
 NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
 that is stupid.
 -- Jim
---
If you're anywhere near a big university you might try their engineering 
libraries website and look for circuits, transistors, dynamo, gensets, 
generators, chinese generators, etc.  If you find something you can go to 
the library and zerox whatever you need.
Back when I was fooling around with the some of the early Asian electronics 
I found that the eng libr had books with circuits for nearly any kind of 
manufactured electronic part or product imaginable.  If the librarian is 
knowledgeable, he/she might help you find what you're looking for.  Senior 
students sometime work the libraries desk.  If the university in your area 
is like the University of Florida, you'll very likely see many Chinese and 
other oriental students working there.  Some of them might actually be 
familiar with your genset.
Good luck,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread archer
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 So, anybody electronical out there that's connected well enough
 to find some specs on a Chinese T2142 Dynamo Transistor?  All
 I really need right now is a pinout, and its basic characteristics.
 With any luck the one I have is still good, but using the Fluke to
 suss out the pins isn't working too well.  Assuming that it is
 NPN-ish with customary pinouts for the package gets me a schematic
 that is stupid.
 -- Jim
---
My 1991 15th Edition of the Phillips ECG Master Replacement Guide shows:
T-2122 and the next is T-2159.  I downloaded their 19th edition and found
that the T-2142 was not listed.

http://www.moyerelectronics.com/index.shtml?http://www.moyerelectronics.com/DownLoads/

However, the 16th, 17th, 18th editions could have listed and then dropped
it.  These may be available on the net or an engineering library might have
all the editions.  I suspect the Chinese number is in accordance with
Phillips/international protocols and information on it is available.
Good luck,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-10-04 Thread Jim Cathey
Thanks, guys!  I was only finding places that I needed to
be a paid subscriber to, don't know how I missed alldata.

The part resembles what I originally thought it was.  So
I don't yet understand the circuit, more thought required.

FYI, that T2142 looks an awful lot like it might work as
a replacement pass element in the early-80's ignition box.
Not a physical fit, mind you, but something that could
perhaps be made to work anyway.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-29 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 29 Sep 2007 19:37:37 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I exposed the components over by the trim pot, and found what I
 expected.  Unfortunately I cracked the glass diode! Probably no way to
 tell what it was now. 

Oops.


 They're power darlingtons, with clamping diode.  (Last I was taught,
 it's not too  kosher to parallel BJT's without small emitter degradation
 resistors.  That's one of the reasons I assumed they were FET's.)

You are correct. Paralleling BJTs is a bad idea.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-29 Thread Jim Cathey
Yesterday I spent some 'quality time' with the scanner, the digital
camera, and Illustrator.  I'm trying to recreate 'artwork'
representing the regulator's circuit board.  This will aid me in not
missing anything when creating the schematic.  It's going slowly, but
I believe the end results will be adequate to the task.

Today it was more Illustrator.  I've got the rest of the components
and tracing done, but there's two obscuring chunks of potting left.  I
think I've figured out what components are underneath one, but the
other is a bit more mysterious.  There are five leads left unaccounted
for, and of course most basic components have only two.  The pattern
doesn't really allow for a three-lead component like a transistor.
I'm going to have to do some more digging!  The large bipolar
transistor has what appears to be T2142 on it, and another 142 in
smaller print, and an L.

I saw an ad on Craig's List for a substantially similar generator,
brand new, but with a few more bolt-on features like a small transfer
switch and a few more watts.  $1900!

Because it was easy to do I popped the potting off the bottom of the
other (overload?) board.  It's got a 14-pin IC on it.  I'm not going
to try to unpot the components.  It's probably not broken, nor is it
critical to generation.  Maybe later, if it gives me trouble.

The iron had warmed up while I did the overload board's trace-side
potting removal, so I then removed the regulator's two electrolytic
capacitors and the large bipolar transistor.  These exposed the MOV
component label (it's an 82 V unit) and the remaining potting blocks.
I surfed for the big transistor, and found that there is a Chinese
T2142 Dynamo Transistor, whatever _that_ is.  No other information
on it, yet.  The multimeter indicates that it's more complicated than
a basic transistor.  I exposed the components over by the trim pot,
and found what I expected.  Unfortunately I cracked the glass diode!
Probably no way to tell what it was now.  Zener?  1N914?  Capacitor,
even?  I pulled one of the green-dipped mylar capacitors and measured
.0012 nF on the bridge.  That's down in the noise.  I exposed the
parts under the other potting blob and found another transistor!  OK,
that explains the pin count.  Marked A42 and B331.  MPS-A42?
That's a high-voltage level translator, rather old in fact.  The PCB
hole pattern was not customary, but so what.  The remaining component
was a resistor, as expected.  The big transistors were labeled
MJ10012, which is not a FET at all!  They're power darlingtons, with
clamping diode.  (Last I was taught, it's not too  kosher to parallel
BJT's without small emitter degradation resistors.  That's one of the
reasons I assumed they were FET's.)  If these are BJT's, they may be
dead.  I measure a dead short between C and E.  This board is
starting to appear to have been thoroughly fried, and half of what
didn't suicide has now been killed by me.  Sigh.  Well, it didn't
work before I started messing with it, either!

Anyway, so far the schematic I have prepared contains only the layout
and the Bill of Materials.  While I have a penciled schematic, I must
rearrange it a few times to put into intelligible form.  There's an
art to good schematic design, after all...and I'm no artist.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3/regulator.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-28 Thread Gary Hurst
yeah, i kind get the point now.  with me, i gather up a bunch of old laptop
parts and make a computer.  while one can more easily go buy a working
laptop, it's more about taking junk and making it useful through labor.

On 9/26/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 And then there's the challenge issue. If price is no object, then
 there is no challenge to overcome when buying new. You get a lot of
 satisfaction from turning a POS into a good useful tool, etc.
 Heck - some of us get vicarious satisfaction from Jim's exploits!
 Reading about them is a lot more fun than I bought a new genset today
 - it works.

 On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought
   to be
   avoided, whatever the price.
 
  If price was no object, I'd have bought a better one, new.
  Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
  so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.
 
  -- Jim

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
 -Benjamin Disraeli
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-28 Thread OK Don
Exactly.

On 9/28/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 yeah, i kind get the point now.  with me, i gather up a bunch of old laptop
 parts and make a computer.  while one can more easily go buy a working
 laptop, it's more about taking junk and making it useful through labor.


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-27 Thread Bill Ringgold
Here I would reference the $25 4400w generator that needed a cup of oil and
the $45 Newton I sold for $500 that needed nothing but a recharge. Also
gotten some genuine junk.  For me it is also entertainment and it gives me
something to do while I wait for my tranny to arrive next week ...
BillR 
Jacksonville  FL
1981 300SD  295k miles, and currently w/o a transmission   

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 9:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

 Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
 so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.

...And sometimes you find $20 on the nightstand.  Not
too often, though.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-27 Thread Jim Cathey
 For me it is also entertainment and...

Me too.  But the entertainment value of this thing is
dwindling rapidly.  Maybe I'll learn something about
power FET's?  (Tell me about, computers...)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
After much chiseling, and some tracing, I think I found
the genesis of this generator's general grunge.  (Hey,
_you_ try to find a 'g' word that's better!)

The small diode bridge has every diode blown, shorted,
and its feed trace gone too.  Perhaps it's the shorted
'protective' MOV on its output?

Of course, now it has other problems!  Me and my chisel...

Bad design.  If you're going to use a MOV, a wear
component, put it where it can be replaced.  And
fuse the circuit too.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:18:06 -0700, Jim wrote:

 The small diode bridge has every diode blown, shorted,
 and its feed trace gone too.  Perhaps it's the shorted
 'protective' MOV on its output?
 
 Bad design.  If you're going to use a MOV, a wear
 component, put it where it can be replaced.  And
 fuse the circuit too.

Yup. An MOV can work well. But to not plan for it to fail - and
shorted _is_ it's most common failure mode - is as silly as a
paperclip instead of a fuse in the fuse box!!

It would seem to me you have found the problem.

So, are you planning to rebuild the original?

Or build your own, now that you have figured out how it
functions?

Or locate an off-the-shelf regulator that will do the job?

Curious minds want to know

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
 So, are you planning to rebuild the original?

Yes, assuming I haven't destroyed too many components
with the chisel.  There's a couple of resistors that
are open-circuit now.  One broke in half, another
got a nice peel job, the ceramic case is gone off
of one, etc.

The two big heat-sinked pass elements are completely
in parallel, and measure 0.7 ohms across their business
ends.  Could these be depletion-mode FET's?  I've got
no experience with these.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Gary Hurst
sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought to be
avoided, whatever the price.

On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  So, are you planning to rebuild the original?

 Yes, assuming I haven't destroyed too many components
 with the chisel.  There's a couple of resistors that
 are open-circuit now.  One broke in half, another
 got a nice peel job, the ceramic case is gone off
 of one, etc.

 The two big heat-sinked pass elements are completely
 in parallel, and measure 0.7 ohms across their business
 ends.  Could these be depletion-mode FET's?  I've got
 no experience with these.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
 sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought 
 to be
 avoided, whatever the price.

If price was no object, I'd have bought a better one, new.
Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
And then there's the challenge issue. If price is no object, then
there is no challenge to overcome when buying new. You get a lot of
satisfaction from turning a POS into a good useful tool, etc.
Heck - some of us get vicarious satisfaction from Jim's exploits!
Reading about them is a lot more fun than I bought a new genset today
- it works.

On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought
  to be
  avoided, whatever the price.

 If price was no object, I'd have bought a better one, new.
 Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
 so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.

 -- Jim

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
 Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
 so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.

...And sometimes you find $20 on the nightstand.  Not
too often, though.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
The big heat-sinked paralleled transistors _are_ N-channel
depletion-mode FET's.  I used the Fluke to measure the channel
resistance of the pair between source and drain, and got about 0.8
ohms.  With a negative 1.25V applied to the gate using the Heathkit
VTVM's ohmmeter function the channel resistance of the pair shot up to
around 80 ohms.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 21:16:28 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 The big heat-sinked paralleled transistors _are_ N-channel
 depletion-mode FET's.  I used the Fluke to measure the channel
 resistance of the pair between source and drain, and got about 0.8
 ohms.  With a negative 1.25V applied to the gate using the Heathkit
 VTVM's ohmmeter function the channel resistance of the pair shot up to
 around 80 ohms.

Amazing. I've never even heard of those as power devices, only enhancement
mode FETs. Now the small, raisin JFETs are a different story.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-25 Thread Jim Cathey
With only a little prying with a pair of screwdrivers, and 'biting' at
it with some pliers, I was able to completely expose the bottom of the
regulator's PCB.  Big chunks of the potting material peeled up.  Some
of the solder mask came up with it, but otherwise no harm that I could
tell.  There is what looks to be a blown trace over at the excitation
winding input area, I couldn't find any trace of the missing copper
stuck to the removed potting material.  That'd do it!  I'll need to
figure out why it blew, however.  The potting material is somewhat
brittle and can probably be chipped away with patience.  Even without
exposing the component side I should be able to do at least some
circuit tracing.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-25 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 With only a little prying with a pair of screwdrivers, and 'biting' at
 it with some pliers, I was able to completely expose the bottom of the
 regulator's PCB.  Big chunks of the potting material peeled up.  Some
 of the solder mask came up with it, but otherwise no harm that I could
 tell.  There is what looks to be a blown trace over at the excitation
 winding input area, I couldn't find any trace of the missing copper
 stuck to the removed potting material.  That'd do it!  I'll need to
 figure out why it blew, however.snip  
 -- Jim
--
The short to ground?
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-25 Thread Jim Cathey
 figure out why it blew, however.snip
 The short to ground?

But _nothing_ else is referenced to ground, so
there's nothing to short to.  That's the mystery.

I have managed to, with the help of a bowl full of
acetone and dry ice, a nail set, hammer, and anvil,
to chip off enough of the regulator's potting to
identify components.  I only broke a few of them!
I'll begin tracing the schematic soon.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-24 Thread Jim Cathey
I pulled the 'two-piece' regulator out.  Not two pieces at all, the
units are entirely separate.  The regulator connects _only_ to
the two excitation windings and the field.  It's potted in a black
plastic shell, and the potting is cracked.  Three power transistors
protrude, two of them heat-sinked together, as does a large 250V
470 uF electrolytic capacitor.  A smaller electrolytic lies just
below the surface of the potting.  A trim potentiometer also
protrudes.  Molded into the back of the shell is GTDK, and the
month/year clock codes of 11/9.  (Which could also be interpreted as
5/4, or any combination thereof since the M and Y letters aren't very
good arrows.)  Stamped on the back is AVR7-1E3A 06 07.  The entire
unit is curved like it was supposed to fit into a generator housing.

The other unit hooks to the front panel and has a current transformer
looped around the main output that it connects to.  Constructed like
the regulator, it has GTDK date codes of 7/06, or perhaps 1/01.
Stamped on the side is BI-1 06.07, or perhaps B1-1.  Protruding
through the potting is a relay, an LED, and a trim pot.  Two small
electrolytics lie just below the surface of the potting.  This looks
to be an overload shutdown or something like that.  The potting had
pulled away from the shell, the block was easily removed.  The back
(PCB) side was crazed, this potting material looks brittle enough that
it may be possible to remove it easily.  Cold (dry ice?) may be of
great help.

I pulled the regulator out of the shell, but I was too energetic and
managed to crack the shell.  (No great loss.)  There were voids in the
potting, part of the PCB was exposed.  There was a great deal of
granular white plastic material mixed in the black potting at the
'bottom', I don't know if this is un-melted pot material or a
component thereof, or what.  But this potting looks very brittle, I
may be able to expose the circuitry with some care.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Did the shorted winding un-short when you unhooked the regulator?

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-24 Thread Jim Cathey
 Did the shorted winding un-short when you unhooked the regulator?

Oh, no.  It's a short in the field to the rotor.  Harmless, so
far as I can tell.  The first rotor short is free!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-22 Thread Jim Cathey
 Have you ever tried mining something that was potted?

No.  But I've been thinking about it.  Promises to be
_extremely_ time-consuming, however.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-21 Thread Jim Cathey
I did some surfing, and found out some interesting things.  Here is a
link to a generator vaguely similar to mine:

http://www.usdieselengines.com/generator-welder.pdf

There are some engine management schematics in it, operating
instructions, etc.  Unfortunately the electrical end is fairly
different.  Almost every one of this class of generator I've been able
to find information on uses the resonant type of regulation, using
mostly just a capacitor.  (Such generators don't start heavy motors
very well, and apparently don't tolerate _at_all_ capacitive (leading
power factor) loads.  And I believe they are relatively inefficient in
that they burn excess input mechanical power as heat, rather than
reduce the field and thus the mechanical load.)  Yet mine has a more
traditional electronic regulator.  Nice, I suppose, when it's working.
Not so nice when it fails.  (It wouldn't be a problem if it were in a
sealed box instead of being epoxy-potted.  I can often fix crap like
that.)

I also found a link to a white paper on the theory of this low-cost
regulation system:

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/6/14/23147/3970

Interesting reading.  The upshot is that the cheap resonant regulator
seems to operate, similar to a constant-voltage transformer, by
running in saturation and burning excess mechanical energy as heat.
They should be markedly less efficient at partial load as a result.

And here is an interesting white paper on generator voltage regulator
theory:

http://lib.tkk.fi/Dipl/2007/urn009728.pdf

In it I found the first plausible explanation of why my generator
might have two separate excitation windings.  One winding reacts to
no-load conditions, and the other to short-circuit conditions.  One is
at the fundamental frequency, and the other is at the third harmonic.
Together they span the range of loads from zero to shorted, and give a
first-order response for regulation.  In other words, the electronics
of the regulator itself can be simplified if they're powered from the
combination (series?) of these two windings.  If this is indeed what I
have, my generator is considerably better than the run of the mill.

Except, of course, that it is broken.

Regardless of its design sophistication, its construction seems no
better than any other cheapie.  And _don't_ get me started on
epoxy-potting electronics!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-21 Thread archer
I did some surfing, and found out some interesting things.  Here is a
 link to a generator vaguely similar to mine:
 http://www.usdieselengines.com/generator-welder.pdf
 There are some engine management schematics in it, operating
 instructions, etc.  Unfortunately the electrical end is fairly
 different.  Almost every one of this class of generator I've been able
 to find information on uses the resonant type of regulation, using
 mostly just a capacitor.  (Such generators don't start heavy motors
 very well, and apparently don't tolerate _at_all_ capacitive (leading
 power factor) loads.  And I believe they are relatively inefficient in
 that they burn excess input mechanical power as heat, rather than
 reduce the field and thus the mechanical load.)  Yet mine has a more
 traditional electronic regulator.  Nice, I suppose, when it's working.
 Not so nice when it fails.  (It wouldn't be a problem if it were in a
 sealed box instead of being epoxy-potted.  I can often fix crap like
 that.)
 I also found a link to a white paper on the theory of this low-cost
 regulation system:
 http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/6/14/23147/3970
 Interesting reading.  The upshot is that the cheap resonant regulator
 seems to operate, similar to a constant-voltage transformer, by
 running in saturation and burning excess mechanical energy as heat.
 They should be markedly less efficient at partial load as a result.
 And here is an interesting white paper on generator voltage regulator
 theory:
 http://lib.tkk.fi/Dipl/2007/urn009728.pdf
 In it I found the first plausible explanation of why my generator
 might have two separate excitation windings.  One winding reacts to
 no-load conditions, and the other to short-circuit conditions.  One is
 at the fundamental frequency, and the other is at the third harmonic.
 Together they span the range of loads from zero to shorted, and give a
 first-order response for regulation.  In other words, the electronics
 of the regulator itself can be simplified if they're powered from the
 combination (series?) of these two windings.  If this is indeed what I
 have, my generator is considerably better than the run of the mill.
 Except, of course, that it is broken.
 Regardless of its design sophistication, its construction seems no
 better than any other cheapie.  And _don't_ get me started on
 epoxy-potting electronics!
 -- Jim
---
Have you ever tried mining something that was potted?  I've read about it 
but never tried it except with silicon potted stuff.  With the hard potted 
assemblies you start out by grinding down alongside a wire very slowly and 
with constant visual checks with a dental drill or equivalent; removing all 
possible potting material in all directions as you go.  Eventually you come 
to a component which you mainly want to identify while keeping it intact if 
possible.  As you continue grinding away the epoxy, more and more components 
and wires will be exposed and you can figure out how they work.
I think this method was used during the cold war to figure out Russian 
electronics and vice-versa.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread archer
 Did you check to see if the windings might be shorted to ground?

 It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
 slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
 I'm guessing that's not good?

 -- Jim

How close are the ohm readings?  Could the winding be center tapped to 
ground or someplace else?  (Just guessing.)
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread archer
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Did you check to see if the windings might be shorted to ground?

 It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
 slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
 I'm guessing that's not good?
 -- Jim

 How close are the ohm readings?  Could the winding be center tapped to
 ground or someplace else?  (Just guessing.)
 Gerry
--
If there is a short to ground, have you thought about replacing the 
windings?  In the past, if you could get the wedges/insulators out of the 
shorted stator or rotor windings and take them to a motor shop, they would 
wind new ones for you for a reasonable price.

You might also wind your own if the wire is available.  Years ago I knew a 
guy who would take his shorted windings down to a fishermans store and 
measure their length on one of those jigs they use to measure fishline. 
Then he'd use the same jig to reel off the same length of new wire.  He'd 
take it home and wind it on a jig he would run on low speed in his drill 
press.  He'd put it back in the stator or rotor with the same 
wedges/insulators.  Claimed the motors ran well.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
 slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
 I'm guessing that's not good?
 How close are the ohm readings?  Could the winding be center tapped to
 ground or someplace else?  (Just guessing.)

It's _possible_, but I fail to see the purpose behind it.
Ground is the only possible place for the center tap,
there is no third slip ring or other way to get at it.

If it's a single short it might even be harmless, but if
more than one wire is shorted there could be eddy currents
circulating in the loop thus formed that would cause
overheating or other problems.  There would also be a
proportional reduction in field strength, depending on
how many turns were shorted out.

I'm sure rewinding the rotor is _possible_, but I'm not
sure I want to go there!  There's no guarantee that the
(complex) regulator works, either.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread dave walton
You don't need anything fancy to control the excitation voltage. I've
seen everything from a diode and a resistor, to a microprocessor board
with fuzzy logic that also controls the throttle. Here is a basic
troubleshooting guide:

http://utterpower.com/Trouble.htm

-Dave Walton

On 9/20/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
  slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
  I'm guessing that's not good?
  How close are the ohm readings?  Could the winding be center tapped to
  ground or someplace else?  (Just guessing.)

 It's _possible_, but I fail to see the purpose behind it.
 Ground is the only possible place for the center tap,
 there is no third slip ring or other way to get at it.

 If it's a single short it might even be harmless, but if
 more than one wire is shorted there could be eddy currents
 circulating in the loop thus formed that would cause
 overheating or other problems.  There would also be a
 proportional reduction in field strength, depending on
 how many turns were shorted out.

 I'm sure rewinding the rotor is _possible_, but I'm not
 sure I want to go there!  There's no guarantee that the
 (complex) regulator works, either.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread dave walton
FYI - I have a 15kw China Genset and get 15 ohms between the rings on
the rotor. I show no reading (infinite resistance) between the rotor
winding and ground.

-Dave Walton

On 9/20/07, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You don't need anything fancy to control the excitation voltage. I've
 seen everything from a diode and a resistor, to a microprocessor board
 with fuzzy logic that also controls the throttle. Here is a basic
 troubleshooting guide:

 http://utterpower.com/Trouble.htm

 -Dave Walton

 On 9/20/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
   slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
   I'm guessing that's not good?
   How close are the ohm readings?  Could the winding be center tapped to
   ground or someplace else?  (Just guessing.)
 
  It's _possible_, but I fail to see the purpose behind it.
  Ground is the only possible place for the center tap,
  there is no third slip ring or other way to get at it.
 
  If it's a single short it might even be harmless, but if
  more than one wire is shorted there could be eddy currents
  circulating in the loop thus formed that would cause
  overheating or other problems.  There would also be a
  proportional reduction in field strength, depending on
  how many turns were shorted out.
 
  I'm sure rewinding the rotor is _possible_, but I'm not
  sure I want to go there!  There's no guarantee that the
  (complex) regulator works, either.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 You don't need anything fancy to control the excitation voltage. I've
 seen everything from a diode and a resistor, to a microprocessor board
 with fuzzy logic that also controls the throttle. Here is a basic
 troubleshooting guide:

 http://utterpower.com/Trouble.htm

Thanks, I'd already found that guide, which was helpful.  The thing
I don't understand is the two different excitation windings that seem
to feed the regulator.

 FYI - I have a 15kw China Genset and get 15 ohms between the rings on
 the rotor. I show no reading (infinite resistance) between the rotor
 winding and ground.

Yeah, I suspect that there's something wrong there.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread dave walton
On that diagram, F1-F2 is the winding in the Rotor. All the U points
and the two windings labeled 3 are the primary windings in the
housing that give you 110V each, or 220V in series with a center tap,
just like power from the utility. Z1 - Z2 is a winding in the housing
that is used only for powering the rotor.  You don't need a special
winding and can power the rotor from one of the primary windings - but
you have to lower the voltage a lot and there is enough current that
you need a regulated switching power supply, or some kind of big-ass
resistor. The Chinese like to put in the extra winding and keep the
electronics simple. No argument from me there.
5 is a bridge rectifier that converts the AC coming off the
excitation winding to DC to power the rotor. The zigzag thing with
green lines and a red cross arrow is a variable resistor. You adjust
that to change the output voltage of the primary windings. You
probably only need a few ohms of resistance. But that all depends on
the design of the thing. Some control circuits will have maybe 3 or 4
resistors already in place and you connect to the one(s) that give the
closest output voltage. Very low-tech :-) Personally, I would try to
avoid disconnecting the excitation voltage then the thing is spinning.

-Dave Walton

On 9/20/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  You don't need anything fancy to control the excitation voltage. I've
  seen everything from a diode and a resistor, to a microprocessor board
  with fuzzy logic that also controls the throttle. Here is a basic
  troubleshooting guide:
 
  http://utterpower.com/Trouble.htm

 Thanks, I'd already found that guide, which was helpful.  The thing
 I don't understand is the two different excitation windings that seem
 to feed the regulator.

  FYI - I have a 15kw China Genset and get 15 ohms between the rings on
  the rotor. I show no reading (infinite resistance) between the rotor
  winding and ground.

 Yeah, I suspect that there's something wrong there.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 that is used only for powering the rotor.  You don't need a special
 winding and can power the rotor from one of the primary windings - but
 you have to lower the voltage a lot and there is enough current that
 you need a regulated switching power supply, or some kind of big-ass
 resistor.

Either it's unregulated (manually regulated via rheostat), or
there is an active voltage regulator, or you use one a special
harmonic (?) winding to power the rotor.  You can't just step down
the primary output to feed the rotor.  What is confusing to me
is why _my_ generator appears to have two windings going to the
regulator.  That makes a total of five windings, plus the rotor.
(Plus the winding in the engine for charging its battery.)
Two 120V primaries, one 12V battery charger, and the two
excitation windings.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-19 Thread Jim Cathey
I stopped by another hardware store yesterday (my fourth try!) and 
bought
two tool brushes that look like they're about the right size.  $7.60,
we'll see if it was wasted money.  (Three stores had nothing at all,
the fourth had four plastic bins of them.)  The new brushes are
1/4x3/16x3/4, they're only about 3/16 longer than the ones
they're replacing.  I cut off the old brush tails and soldered the new
ones in their places.  They're a tiny bit looser than the originals in
one direction, but they're the best I could do on short notice.  They
should be more than good enough to prove whether the rest of the
generator works or not.  I wrapped sandpaper around a paint can cap to
rub the new brushes against to get some curve to them to better match
the slip rings.

Moment of truth time!  I put the repaired brush pack in, flashed the
field winding, and started it.  Nothing.  When I fed +12V into the field
I got about 20V out of the generator.  I measured the DC field output
of the regulator under those conditions and got 28V or more.  Is it
possible this generator needs higher than +12V field for operation?
If so, it's certainly not getting it on its own.

Disgusted, I did manage to turn the battery around.  The positive
cable is definitely too short, but I managed to make it reach anyway.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-19 Thread Jim Cathey
The field, interestingly enough, measures some resistance to frame
ground from each terminal, it is _not_ isolated.  I'm thinking
that's not a good sign.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-19 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I stopped by another hardware store yesterday (my fourth try!) and 
 bought
 two tool brushes that look like they're about the right size.  $7.60,
 we'll see if it was wasted money.  (Three stores had nothing at all,
 the fourth had four plastic bins of them.)  The new brushes are
 1/4x3/16x3/4, they're only about 3/16 longer than the ones
 they're replacing.  I cut off the old brush tails and soldered the new
 ones in their places.  They're a tiny bit looser than the originals in
 one direction, but they're the best I could do on short notice.  They
 should be more than good enough to prove whether the rest of the
 generator works or not.  I wrapped sandpaper around a paint can cap to
 rub the new brushes against to get some curve to them to better match
 the slip rings.
 
 Moment of truth time!  I put the repaired brush pack in, flashed the
 field winding, and started it.  Nothing.  When I fed +12V into the field
 I got about 20V out of the generator.  I measured the DC field output
 of the regulator under those conditions and got 28V or more.  Is it
 possible this generator needs higher than +12V field for operation?
 If so, it's certainly not getting it on its own.
 
 Disgusted, I did manage to turn the battery around.  The positive
 cable is definitely too short, but I managed to make it reach anyway.
 -- Jim
---
Did you check to see if the windings might be shorted to ground?
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-19 Thread Jim Cathey
 Did you check to see if the windings might be shorted to ground?

It looks like the center of the field winding might be, each
slip ring measures in the 5-9 ohm range to frame ground.
I'm guessing that's not good?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Well I have had 3 2.5 turbos with the panels there.  I am not sure why they 
would be different, the chassis is the same.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset


 On 9/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  The description says it's super quite with the enclosure on---so how
  quite is it really, compared to an idling 603 with the hood down,
  say?

 Does your 603 have intact belly pans?  Makes quite a diff!
 :-)


 That's funny.  Tell me another one!  ;)

 Seriously, I have NEVER seen a 603 with intact belly pans.   Neither
 of the two '87 300Ds I've owned, nor any of the dozen or so 300Ds and
 300SDLs I've happened to glance under in the ten years or so since I
 contracted dieselitis, have had them still installed.

 I can't imagine that used ones would be worth bothering with, and I am
 too cheap to pay for new replacements, although I have been curious
 for a while whether the panels from the 300D 2.5 could be made to fit
 since they're much cheaper.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread Jim Cathey
I pulled the other end off the generator's housing, which required
removing a lot of bolts and both mufflers.  No, it's not bad rotating
diodes.  This is not a brushLESS generator!  It has brushes, and
when I put the Fluke on them and spun the motor over by hand the
resistance varied wildly, and was even open-circuit at times.  When I
pulled the brush pack they seemed a little short to me.  So, the
brushes are too short and/or worn out.  Maybe I'll try getting some at
the hardware store and try to install them.

With the end panel removed it was also obvious that the battery is
installed wrong way around.  The retention strap is not centered, and
is wanting to pull into the terminals.  I'll try turning it around so
the terminals are on the opposite side as the retention strap, but if
I recall correctly the positive cable is a bit short to reach.  We'll
see.

When I tried the service phone number it was busy.  Figures.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread dave walton
That is great news. The brushless gen heads I've seen have all been
low-end. The ones with brushes last forever - as long as you replace
the brushes as needed. If you are lucky, there are oil ports on the
bearings. Chances are you can match up the bearings with something
from Timken (http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/) if and when you
need to.
The Chinese ST generator heads have been known to last for decades of
constant use with little maintenance.

-Dave Walton


On 9/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I pulled the other end off the generator's housing, which required
 removing a lot of bolts and both mufflers.  No, it's not bad rotating
 diodes.  This is not a brushLESS generator!  It has brushes, and
 when I put the Fluke on them and spun the motor over by hand the
 resistance varied wildly, and was even open-circuit at times.  When I
 pulled the brush pack they seemed a little short to me.  So, the
 brushes are too short and/or worn out.  Maybe I'll try getting some at
 the hardware store and try to install them.

 With the end panel removed it was also obvious that the battery is
 installed wrong way around.  The retention strap is not centered, and
 is wanting to pull into the terminals.  I'll try turning it around so
 the terminals are on the opposite side as the retention strap, but if
 I recall correctly the positive cable is a bit short to reach.  We'll
 see.

 When I tried the service phone number it was busy.  Figures.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
The description says it's super quite with the enclosure on---so how
quite is it really, compared to an idling 603 with the hood down,
say?  This is pretty much the kind I was looking at for a whole-house
emergency backup system.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread Jim Cathey
 The description says it's super quite with the enclosure on---so how
 quite is it really, compared to an idling 603 with the hood down,
 say?

I wouldn't say that it's really all that quiet, but I was
surprised at how unobjectionable the noise it did make was.
That enclosure works, to be sure.  It's a lot quieter than
the usual rope-pull generattle, even though it's a diesel.
Obviously I haven't tested it under load!

Does your 603 have intact belly pans?  Makes quite a diff!
:-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  The description says it's super quite with the enclosure on---so how
  quite is it really, compared to an idling 603 with the hood down,
  say?

 Does your 603 have intact belly pans?  Makes quite a diff!
 :-)


That's funny.  Tell me another one!  ;)

Seriously, I have NEVER seen a 603 with intact belly pans.   Neither
of the two '87 300Ds I've owned, nor any of the dozen or so 300Ds and
300SDLs I've happened to glance under in the ten years or so since I
contracted dieselitis, have had them still installed.

I can't imagine that used ones would be worth bothering with, and I am
too cheap to pay for new replacements, although I have been curious
for a while whether the panels from the 300D 2.5 could be made to fit
since they're much cheaper.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-17 Thread Jim Cathey
 Seriously, I have NEVER seen a 603 with intact belly pans.

Our SDL had the rear pan, but not the front.  I fabricated
a replacement and it made a noticeable difference in the
exterior noise at idle.  Drive-throughs, etc.

-- JHim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread dave walton
If it has an ST-style induction generator head (popular with Chinese
gensets), you need some residual magnetism in the rotor to generate
enough current to energize the feedback circuit that controls the
voltage output. It feeds some of the output voltage back to the rotor
to create the magnetic field used to generate power. The power output
comes from the stationary coils in the housing, not the rotor.
If it's been sitting for years or you let the rotor spin down while
under load, you will lose the residual magnetism. If you apply load
before it's up to speed you can dissipate the magnetic field and you
get no output. Either way, the solution is to apply 12V to the rotor
for just a fraction of a second to magnetise it, then start it up with
no load. Polarity does not matter. Just make sure you are applying
voltage on the rotor side of the regulation circuit, or remove the
plate and use two alligator clip leads connected directly to the
brushes. If you don't see a little spark when you magnetize the rotor,
then something is wrong and you might want to check with an ohmMeter
to make sure the brushes are making contact. You should only have a
few ohms of resistance.
The same thing happens if you way overload it when it's running. You
usually won't burn it out, it just stops creating current.

Some of the genheads have 2 sets of rings (4 total). If that is the
case, look at the connections to see which two are wired in parallel.
Apply voltage across the ones not wired together.

-Dave Walton

On 9/15/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
 was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
 and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
 the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
 the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
 could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
 but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
 gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
 the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
 intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
 got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
 off.

 Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
 being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
 system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
 There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
 throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
 and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
 purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
 off.

 There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
 such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
 items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
 an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
 specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
 There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
 to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
 an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
 lot of wires.

 It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
 for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

 When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
 taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
 not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
 enough to turn over.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread Jim Cathey
 If it has an ST-style induction generator head (popular with Chinese
 gensets), you need some residual magnetism...to the brushes...

I was all excited there (pun intended), except the online brochure
for the product claims brushless construction.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread Jim Cathey
 Just because it's brushless doesn't mean it can't be
 flashed externally or has no residual - both types of
 design rely on some sort of bootstrap arrangement to
 get things going.

OK.  I have three candidates for windings: 17 ohm,
1.2 ohm, and 0.6 ohm.  I've already fed power through
a test light to the 17 ohm one, while it was running,
and nothing voltilicious happened.

This particular unit has battery voltage available,
it needn't have relied on residual magnetism.  But
the left hand often knows not what the right hand
is doing.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread LWB250
Just because it's brushless doesn't mean it can't be
flashed externally or has no residual - both types of
design rely on some sort of bootstrap arrangement to
get things going.

If you find the field windings, you can put 12V to
them to get the generator to produce output.  Based on
the field voltage, it may or may not produce rated
voltage, but that's not the point of the exercise -
it's to determine if, in fact, the generator will
produce output if it's got excitation.

Dan


--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  If it has an ST-style induction generator head
 (popular with Chinese
  gensets), you need some residual magnetism...to
 the brushes...
 
 I was all excited there (pun intended), except the
 online brochure
 for the product claims brushless construction.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play 
Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/  

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread Jim Cathey
I flashed the windings (3) with 12V from the battery charger.
Sadly, no change.

On the plus side the battery had stopped taking a charge, and though
it was a cool morning it fired right up.  I did use the compression
release this time.

Dare I use the phone number For Information or Service on the front?
1-888-896-6881, could it be as simple as that?  I reached Pacific Power
Service Center, but its hours are M-F 7-4 PST.  I'll have to try again
tomorrow.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-16 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 07:45:59 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I flashed the windings (3) with 12V from the battery charger.
 Sadly, no change.

:-(


 On the plus side the battery had stopped taking a charge, and though
 it was a cool morning it fired right up.  I did use the compression
 release this time.

:-)


 Dare I use the phone number For Information or Service on the front?

Sure, why not?


 1-888-896-6881, could it be as simple as that? 

It could.


 I reached Pacific Power Service Center, but its hours are M-F 7-4 PST. 
 I'll have to try again tomorrow.

Sure will. And I'm sure you'll let us know what you find out.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
off.

Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
off.

There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
lot of wires.

It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
enough to turn over.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers 
is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first 
cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let 
off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them )

-Robert

im Cathey wrote:
 First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
 was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
 and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
 the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
 the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
 could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
 but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
 gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
 the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
 intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
 got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
 off.

 Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
 being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
 system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
 There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
 throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
 and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
 purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
 off.

 There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
 such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
 items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
 an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
 specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
 There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
 to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
 an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
 lot of wires.

 It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
 for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

 When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
 taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
 not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
 enough to turn over.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers
 is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first
 cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let
 off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them 
 )

It's in the right place for one of those, but there's no way
to actuate it without partially disassembling the enclosure!

-- Jim


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