Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-06 Thread John Reames
The subframe mount bushings and the diff mount make a HUGE difference in 
emergency and highway handling (rear wheel steer!)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Mar 4, 2013, at 20:02, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> On a car that is in excess of 30 years old, you can almost bet that a lot of 
> the undercarriage rubber bits are original or weren't changed in recent 
> history.  Now granted, my knowledge is a bit dated, but the cost of the parts 
> involved isn't significant, nor is their replacement.  Putting new pieces in 
> will make a big difference in how the car sounds, rides and runs, without 
> exception.  Some parts, such as the differential mount, can even have a major 
> effect on the handling and ultimately the safety of the car under certain 
> conditions.
> 
> Here are some parts prices from the "Q" based on a 1983 300SD (W126):
> 
> Motor mount  - $26/ea for Lemforders (the best)
> Transmission mount - $23
> Differential mount - $75
> 
> OK, so there is about $150 for these parts.  Amortize that over the life of 
> the car, even for the miles only you have put on it, and it's cheap.  And I 
> can assure you that if these pieces are even half worn, you'll still see a 
> noticeable improvement in the car in a number of areas.
> 
> And I'm not being obsessive about this - it just makes sense to do it if 
> you're going to be in the neighborhood, so to speak.
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> On Mar 4, 2013, at 6:54 PM, clay wrote:
> 
>> Mike, 
>> 
>> Crawling under the car highlights all the over engineering that allows our 
>> cars to run like tops.  Sadly, there is a bunch of shoe horning going on and 
>> you end up taking all sort of things off and then replace the wear items so 
>> you can do the job right.
>> 
>> I learned about the flex disk/motor mount relationship at our local section 
>> tech session this weekend.  I had never thought about the motor and 
>> transmission angle change/drop impacting the driveshaft angles and creating 
>> more trouble for the disk.  Makes sense though.
>> 
>> Taking the whole car apart was another item, since three of the cars on the 
>> rack had disk issues.  Gump was stone simple and doing a disk swap was not a 
>> problem.  Wide open and nothing in the way.  Froggy has the dang exhaust 
>> impinging on the driveshaft, the newer cars have all sorts of pipes, tubes, 
>> hoses and stuff routed all over.  To get into the drive shaft, you have to 
>> take the underside of the car apart.  Might as well hit the wear items while 
>> you have it open instead of paying for it down the road.  Labor is done now, 
>> just parts.  Next time labor cost gets tossed in.
>> 
>> The water pump in Frosch is weeping.  Stealer quotes $2500 for the job.  
>> Indy wants $900.  I might be able to find time on BiL shop schedule to cut 
>> that by a goodly amount.  I already paid indy to swap in a thermostat.  
>> Should have done the dang pump then, replaced the old hoses and tossed on 
>> new belts.  One of the "while you are in there" solutions.  
>> 
>> clay 
>> 
>> 
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-06 Thread John Reames
And the NHTSA doesn't require signed off paperwork (showing approval of) and 
traceability of every new and/or used part we put on a car (this week)...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Mar 3, 2013, at 21:34, OK Don  wrote:

> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
> than being replaced when they should be.
> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
> Mercedes.
> 
> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
> 
> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
> 
> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> 
>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a cheap
>> mercedes.
>> 
>> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> 1957 C182A
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-05 Thread Scott Ritchey
Hans--you funny man!

But seriously folks, I really appreciate the advice and experience all you
folks have offered.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Hans
Neureiter
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 4:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

Don't forget to r'place the fuses.>Marshall<


On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Michael Canfield
wrote:

> Only if you are going to replace the cv axles and seals, wheel bearings
and
> seals, shock absorbers, all rubber suspension bushings, windshield wipers
> and seat springs at the same time.
>
> All, just because they are not new?  I can understand if they are needing
> replacement that it should be done at the most convenient time but the
> logic that goes with replacing parts just because you don't know how long
> they have been there is going to get costly in a hurry.
>
> Mike
> On Mar 4, 2013 10:54 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:
>
> > So does that mean I shouldn't suggest replacing the differential mount
> > while your under there as well?
> >
> > 
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > On Mar 4, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Canfield 
> wrote:
> >
> > > I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up
> with a
> > > laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust
> > hangers
> > > all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til
> the
> > > next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
> > > isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe,
> reliable
> > > transportation.
> > >
> > > Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix
> > it."?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> > >
> > >> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know.
> > This
> > >> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail,
> rether
> > >> than being replaced when they should be.
> > >> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can
> be a
> > >> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at
> a
> > >> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find
> that
> > >> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to
> just
> > >> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and
> are
> > >> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a
> cheap
> > >> Mercedes.
> > >>
> > >> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
> > >>
> > >> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
> > >> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly
different!
> > >>
> > >> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield  > >>> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as
a
> > >> cheap
> > >>> mercedes.
> > >>>
> > >>> Mike
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> OK Don
> > >> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> > >> 1957 C182A
> > >> ___
> > >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >>
> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > >>
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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___
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-05 Thread Hans Neureiter
Don't forget to r'place the fuses.>Marshall<


On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> Only if you are going to replace the cv axles and seals, wheel bearings and
> seals, shock absorbers, all rubber suspension bushings, windshield wipers
> and seat springs at the same time.
>
> All, just because they are not new?  I can understand if they are needing
> replacement that it should be done at the most convenient time but the
> logic that goes with replacing parts just because you don't know how long
> they have been there is going to get costly in a hurry.
>
> Mike
> On Mar 4, 2013 10:54 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:
>
> > So does that mean I shouldn't suggest replacing the differential mount
> > while your under there as well?
> >
> > 
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > On Mar 4, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Canfield 
> wrote:
> >
> > > I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up
> with a
> > > laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust
> > hangers
> > > all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til
> the
> > > next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
> > > isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe,
> reliable
> > > transportation.
> > >
> > > Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix
> > it."?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> > >
> > >> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know.
> > This
> > >> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail,
> rether
> > >> than being replaced when they should be.
> > >> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can
> be a
> > >> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at
> a
> > >> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find
> that
> > >> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to
> just
> > >> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and
> are
> > >> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a
> cheap
> > >> Mercedes.
> > >>
> > >> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
> > >>
> > >> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
> > >> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
> > >>
> > >> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield  > >>> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
> > >> cheap
> > >>> mercedes.
> > >>>
> > >>> Mike
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> OK Don
> > >> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> > >> 1957 C182A
> > >> ___
> > >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >>
> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > >>
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Dan Penoff
On a car that is in excess of 30 years old, you can almost bet that a lot of 
the undercarriage rubber bits are original or weren't changed in recent 
history.  Now granted, my knowledge is a bit dated, but the cost of the parts 
involved isn't significant, nor is their replacement.  Putting new pieces in 
will make a big difference in how the car sounds, rides and runs, without 
exception.  Some parts, such as the differential mount, can even have a major 
effect on the handling and ultimately the safety of the car under certain 
conditions.

Here are some parts prices from the "Q" based on a 1983 300SD (W126):

Motor mount  - $26/ea for Lemforders (the best)
Transmission mount - $23
Differential mount - $75

OK, so there is about $150 for these parts.  Amortize that over the life of the 
car, even for the miles only you have put on it, and it's cheap.  And I can 
assure you that if these pieces are even half worn, you'll still see a 
noticeable improvement in the car in a number of areas.

And I'm not being obsessive about this - it just makes sense to do it if you're 
going to be in the neighborhood, so to speak.

Dan


On Mar 4, 2013, at 6:54 PM, clay wrote:

> Mike, 
> 
> Crawling under the car highlights all the over engineering that allows our 
> cars to run like tops.  Sadly, there is a bunch of shoe horning going on and 
> you end up taking all sort of things off and then replace the wear items so 
> you can do the job right.
> 
> I learned about the flex disk/motor mount relationship at our local section 
> tech session this weekend.  I had never thought about the motor and 
> transmission angle change/drop impacting the driveshaft angles and creating 
> more trouble for the disk.  Makes sense though.
> 
> Taking the whole car apart was another item, since three of the cars on the 
> rack had disk issues.  Gump was stone simple and doing a disk swap was not a 
> problem.  Wide open and nothing in the way.  Froggy has the dang exhaust 
> impinging on the driveshaft, the newer cars have all sorts of pipes, tubes, 
> hoses and stuff routed all over.  To get into the drive shaft, you have to 
> take the underside of the car apart.  Might as well hit the wear items while 
> you have it open instead of paying for it down the road.  Labor is done now, 
> just parts.  Next time labor cost gets tossed in.
> 
> The water pump in Frosch is weeping.  Stealer quotes $2500 for the job.  Indy 
> wants $900.  I might be able to find time on BiL shop schedule to cut that by 
> a goodly amount.  I already paid indy to swap in a thermostat.  Should have 
> done the dang pump then, replaced the old hoses and tossed on new belts.  One 
> of the "while you are in there" solutions.  
> 
> clay 
> 
> 
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mar 4, 2013, at 7:01 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> 
>> I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
>> laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust hangers
>> all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
>> next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
>> isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe, reliable
>> transportation.
>> 
>> Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix it."?
>> 
>> Mike
>> On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
>> 
>>> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
>>> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
>>> than being replaced when they should be.
>>> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
>>> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
>>> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
>>> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
>>> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
>>> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
>>> Mercedes.
>>> 
>>> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
>>> 
>>> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
>>> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield >>> wrote:
>>> 
 With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
>>> cheap
 mercedes.
 
 Mike
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> OK Don
>>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>>> 1957 C182A
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okie

Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread clay
Mike, 

Crawling under the car highlights all the over engineering that allows our cars 
to run like tops.  Sadly, there is a bunch of shoe horning going on and you end 
up taking all sort of things off and then replace the wear items so you can do 
the job right.

I learned about the flex disk/motor mount relationship at our local section 
tech session this weekend.  I had never thought about the motor and 
transmission angle change/drop impacting the driveshaft angles and creating 
more trouble for the disk.  Makes sense though.

Taking the whole car apart was another item, since three of the cars on the 
rack had disk issues.  Gump was stone simple and doing a disk swap was not a 
problem.  Wide open and nothing in the way.  Froggy has the dang exhaust 
impinging on the driveshaft, the newer cars have all sorts of pipes, tubes, 
hoses and stuff routed all over.  To get into the drive shaft, you have to take 
the underside of the car apart.  Might as well hit the wear items while you 
have it open instead of paying for it down the road.  Labor is done now, just 
parts.  Next time labor cost gets tossed in.

The water pump in Frosch is weeping.  Stealer quotes $2500 for the job.  Indy 
wants $900.  I might be able to find time on BiL shop schedule to cut that by a 
goodly amount.  I already paid indy to swap in a thermostat.  Should have done 
the dang pump then, replaced the old hoses and tossed on new belts.  One of the 
"while you are in there" solutions.  

clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Mar 4, 2013, at 7:01 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
> laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust hangers
> all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
> next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
> isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe, reliable
> transportation.
> 
> Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix it."?
> 
> Mike
> On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> 
>> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
>> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
>> than being replaced when they should be.
>> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
>> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
>> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
>> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
>> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
>> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
>> Mercedes.
>> 
>> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
>> 
>> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
>> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
>> 
>> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield >> wrote:
>> 
>>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
>> cheap
>>> mercedes.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> OK Don
>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>> 1957 C182A
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Michael Canfield
Only if you are going to replace the cv axles and seals, wheel bearings and
seals, shock absorbers, all rubber suspension bushings, windshield wipers
and seat springs at the same time.

All, just because they are not new?  I can understand if they are needing
replacement that it should be done at the most convenient time but the
logic that goes with replacing parts just because you don't know how long
they have been there is going to get costly in a hurry.

Mike
On Mar 4, 2013 10:54 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:

> So does that mean I shouldn't suggest replacing the differential mount
> while your under there as well?
>
> 
>
> Dan
>
> On Mar 4, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Canfield  wrote:
>
> > I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
> > laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust
> hangers
> > all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
> > next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
> > isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe, reliable
> > transportation.
> >
> > Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix
> it."?
> >
> > Mike
> > On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> >
> >> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know.
> This
> >> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
> >> than being replaced when they should be.
> >> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
> >> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
> >> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
> >> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
> >> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
> >> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
> >> Mercedes.
> >>
> >> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
> >>
> >> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
> >> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
> >>
> >> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield  >>> wrote:
> >>
> >>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
> >> cheap
> >>> mercedes.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> OK Don
> >> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> >> 1957 C182A
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> ___
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> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Dan Penoff
So does that mean I shouldn't suggest replacing the differential mount while 
your under there as well?



Dan

On Mar 4, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

> I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
> laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust hangers
> all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
> next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
> isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe, reliable
> transportation.
> 
> Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix it."?
> 
> Mike
> On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:
> 
>> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
>> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
>> than being replaced when they should be.
>> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
>> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
>> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
>> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
>> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
>> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
>> Mercedes.
>> 
>> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
>> 
>> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
>> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
>> 
>> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield >> wrote:
>> 
>>> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
>> cheap
>>> mercedes.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> OK Don
>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>> 1957 C182A
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Rich Thomas
My point was that if you go to the trouble to get the car up on ramps or 
lifts or stands or whatever, and you are nasty and crawling around under 
there, and if that other stuff has not been tended to in some time, then 
take advantage of the situation and deal with it.  Or not.   Your choice.


--R (whose curmudgeon has not been sequestered)


On 3/4/13 10:01 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:

But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust hangers
all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
next job?



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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Jim Cathey

Where does it stop, or pause til the next job?


Understandable.  It's just that one likes to amortize the
common effort on some of these jobs, and/or do the things
that will help preserve the job you just did do.

At a bare minimum I'd do all the driveline stuff that looked
like it needed doing.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Michael Canfield
I understand that.   But, we started out @ flex discs and ended up with a
laundry list of parts from the oil in the rear diff to the exhaust hangers
all the way up to the motor mounts.  Where does it stop, or pause til the
next job?  If every job goes like that then when is "good enough"?  It
isn't a Cessna, it doesn't have to be perfect to be good, safe, reliable
transportation.

Anyone remember the old line.."If it ain't broke, then don't fix it."?

Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 9:34 PM, "OK Don"  wrote:

> It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
> is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
> than being replaced when they should be.
> If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
> "cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
> "bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
> "there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
> keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
> willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
> Mercedes.
>
> You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.
>
> The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
> consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!
>
> On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield  >wrote:
>
> > With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a
> cheap
> > mercedes.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
>
>
> --
> OK Don
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> 1957 C182A
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-04 Thread Dan Penoff
Motor mounts on a 126 are relatively inexpensive and easy to swap.

Move up to the 124 or my 140 which both have the fluid filled mounts and it 
gets expensive fast.

Dan

On Mar 3, 2013, at 9:21 PM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a cheap
> mercedes.
> 
> Mike
> On Mar 3, 2013 7:05 PM, "clay"  wrote:
> 
>> While you are at it, replace your motor mounts.  When the mounts fail, the
>> angle from the trans to the shaft changes and it puts increased stress on
>> the flex disks.  Makes them fail faster.
>> 
>> clay
>> 
>> On Mar 3, 2013, at 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
>> 
>>> I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh
>> thoughts.
>>> 
>>> I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get
>> will help.
>>> 
>>> You need to remove the exhaust system first.  Support it, it is heavy.
>> Use new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke after
>> awhile, gr).  An air wrench helps with the rusted front bolts connected
>> to the manifold downpipes.  You probably will need to replace them as they
>> will be all rusted and will strip the nuts or just break.
>>> 
>>> Then there is more stuff to do, I forget the sequence but it is fairly
>> apparent.  Or RTFM for whatever it says.
>>> 
>>> You need to remove the driveshaft support (center carrier) and drop the
>> rear of the tranny with a jack after removing the tranny support.  So
>> having the car up as high as you can safely have it to allow room for a
>> floor jack (or I guess a cylinder jack would work too) will make your life
>> easier.
>>> 
>>> You need to mark the 2 pieces of driveshaft so they can go back together
>> the same.
>>> 
>>> Getting some of the flex disk bolts off and on is Not Fun but
>> persistence and contortions and various wrenches will help. Probably want
>> to use some thread locker on them.  I recall the front ones were a real
>> PITA.   Oh, yeah, and the back ones too.
>>> 
>>> Replace the center bearing too while you are under there and have
>> everything apart.
>>> 
>>> Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job, just some fiddly bits and
>> crap falling in your eyes.
>>> 
>>> Be safe  most of all.  Those cars are heavy.
>>> 
>>> --R
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 3/2/13 11:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
>>>> Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't
>> that
>>>> the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?
>>>> 
>>>> As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member
>> just
>>>> aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?
>>>> 
>>>> Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.
>>>> 
>>>> -Original Message-
>>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>> Peter
>>>> Frederick
>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
>>>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice
>>>> 
>>>> Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
>>>> stands too.
>>>> 
>>>> Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
>>>> same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
>>>> so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.
>>>> 
>>>> Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
>>>> are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
>>>> it and don't get it back together properly.
>>>> 
>>>> Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
>>>> perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
>>>> Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
>>>> separate it for this part of the job.
>>>> 
>>>> Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.
>>>> 
>>>> Peter
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>> 
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change deli

Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread OK Don
It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
than being replaced when they should be.
If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
"cheap Mercedes". If you buy one that has been run into the ground at a
"bargain price", and you want it to be "up to snuff", you will find that
"there is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes". If you are willing to just
keep it running without worrying about everything being correct and are
willing to endure occasional break downs, then yes, you can have a cheap
Mercedes.

You make your choices and pay the prices - TANSTAAFL.

The same thing applies to old Cessnas (don't ask how I know), but the
consequences of an "occasional breakdown" are significantly different!

On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a cheap
> mercedes.
>
> Mike
>



-- 
OK Don
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Michael Canfield
With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a cheap
mercedes.

Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 7:05 PM, "clay"  wrote:

> While you are at it, replace your motor mounts.  When the mounts fail, the
> angle from the trans to the shaft changes and it puts increased stress on
> the flex disks.  Makes them fail faster.
>
> clay
>
> On Mar 3, 2013, at 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
>
> > I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh
> thoughts.
> >
> > I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get
> will help.
> >
> > You need to remove the exhaust system first.  Support it, it is heavy.
>  Use new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke after
> awhile, gr).  An air wrench helps with the rusted front bolts connected
> to the manifold downpipes.  You probably will need to replace them as they
> will be all rusted and will strip the nuts or just break.
> >
> > Then there is more stuff to do, I forget the sequence but it is fairly
> apparent.  Or RTFM for whatever it says.
> >
> > You need to remove the driveshaft support (center carrier) and drop the
> rear of the tranny with a jack after removing the tranny support.  So
> having the car up as high as you can safely have it to allow room for a
> floor jack (or I guess a cylinder jack would work too) will make your life
> easier.
> >
> > You need to mark the 2 pieces of driveshaft so they can go back together
> the same.
> >
> > Getting some of the flex disk bolts off and on is Not Fun but
> persistence and contortions and various wrenches will help. Probably want
> to use some thread locker on them.  I recall the front ones were a real
> PITA.   Oh, yeah, and the back ones too.
> >
> > Replace the center bearing too while you are under there and have
> everything apart.
> >
> > Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job, just some fiddly bits and
> crap falling in your eyes.
> >
> > Be safe  most of all.  Those cars are heavy.
> >
> > --R
> >
> >
> >
> > On 3/2/13 11:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
> >> Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't
> that
> >> the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?
> >>
> >> As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member
> just
> >> aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?
> >>
> >> Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Peter
> >> Frederick
> >> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
> >> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice
> >>
> >> Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
> >> stands too.
> >>
> >> Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
> >> same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
> >> so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.
> >>
> >> Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
> >> are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
> >> it and don't get it back together properly.
> >>
> >> Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
> >> perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
> >> Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
> >> separate it for this part of the job.
> >>
> >> Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.
> >>
> >> Peter
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> >
> > __

Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread clay
While you are at it, replace your motor mounts.  When the mounts fail, the 
angle from the trans to the shaft changes and it puts increased stress on the 
flex disks.  Makes them fail faster.

clay

On Mar 3, 2013, at 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

> I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh thoughts.
> 
> I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get will 
> help.
> 
> You need to remove the exhaust system first.  Support it, it is heavy.  Use 
> new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke after awhile, 
> gr).  An air wrench helps with the rusted front bolts connected to the 
> manifold downpipes.  You probably will need to replace them as they will be 
> all rusted and will strip the nuts or just break.
> 
> Then there is more stuff to do, I forget the sequence but it is fairly 
> apparent.  Or RTFM for whatever it says.
> 
> You need to remove the driveshaft support (center carrier) and drop the rear 
> of the tranny with a jack after removing the tranny support.  So having the 
> car up as high as you can safely have it to allow room for a floor jack (or I 
> guess a cylinder jack would work too) will make your life easier.
> 
> You need to mark the 2 pieces of driveshaft so they can go back together the 
> same.
> 
> Getting some of the flex disk bolts off and on is Not Fun but persistence and 
> contortions and various wrenches will help. Probably want to use some thread 
> locker on them.  I recall the front ones were a real PITA.   Oh, yeah, and 
> the back ones too.
> 
> Replace the center bearing too while you are under there and have everything 
> apart.
> 
> Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job, just some fiddly bits and crap 
> falling in your eyes.
> 
> Be safe  most of all.  Those cars are heavy.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
> 
> On 3/2/13 11:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
>> Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't that
>> the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?
>> 
>> As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member just
>> aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?
>> 
>> Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.
>> 
>> -Original Message-----
>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
>> Frederick
>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice
>> 
>> Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
>> stands too.
>> 
>> Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
>> same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
>> so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.
>> 
>> Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
>> are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
>> it and don't get it back together properly.
>> 
>> Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
>> perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
>> Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
>> separate it for this part of the job.
>> 
>> Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Allan Streib
Dan Penoff  writes:

> The nuts that come with the flex disk are self locking, and do not
> require thread locking compound.  The last portion of the threads are
> altered slightly to create and interference fit, which prevents the
> nuts from coming loose.

Also for this reason you should not re-use the nuts and bolts.  The new
disks will come with new nuts and bolts.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Rich Thomas

I probably did not know that at the time.

--R

On 3/3/13 4:06 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

The nuts that come with the flex disk are self locking, and do not require 
thread locking compound.



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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Dan Penoff
As I recall, only dropping the exhaust is necessary, even if you're doing the 
center support.  Also, you should not bolt the center support down tight until 
the car is on the ground and the suspension is loaded, which can be a bit 
tricky to do.

The nuts that come with the flex disk are self locking, and do not require 
thread locking compound.  The last portion of the threads are altered slightly 
to create and interference fit, which prevents the nuts from coming loose.  
This is also the biggest hindrance to removing the old one, and why you will 
need a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose.

While I suspect my car might have benefitted from a new center bearing and 
carrier (these are pretty inexpensive in the grand scheme of things) when I did 
my flex discs, gaining access to the center bearing and carrier on the W140 is 
a major undertaking, requiring dropping of the exhaust and many, many heat 
shields and such

Dan


On Mar 3, 2013, at 3:47 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> Simply raising one rear wheel off your block a bit with the factory jack
> will allow you to rotate the driveshaft to a position where the bolts are
> easy to get to.  Lower it back down to hold it still.
> 
> Don't mess with the exhaust bolts if they look rusty.  Simply support it,
> remove the rubber hangers and lower it out of the way.  It will flex enough
> to make room.  Broken bolts suck.
> 
> Mike
> On Mar 3, 2013 3:42 PM, "Craig"  wrote:
> 
>> On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 15:27:23 -0500 Rich Thomas
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing
>>> while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe
>>> tranny too while you are under there and nasty.
>> 
>> You can easily change the rear transmission mount, too.
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Michael Canfield
Simply raising one rear wheel off your block a bit with the factory jack
will allow you to rotate the driveshaft to a position where the bolts are
easy to get to.  Lower it back down to hold it still.

Don't mess with the exhaust bolts if they look rusty.  Simply support it,
remove the rubber hangers and lower it out of the way.  It will flex enough
to make room.  Broken bolts suck.

Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 3:42 PM, "Craig"  wrote:

> On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 15:27:23 -0500 Rich Thomas
>  wrote:
>
> > Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing
> > while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe
> > tranny too while you are under there and nasty.
>
> You can easily change the rear transmission mount, too.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Craig
On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 15:27:23 -0500 Rich Thomas
 wrote:

> Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing 
> while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe 
> tranny too while you are under there and nasty.

You can easily change the rear transmission mount, too.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Rich Thomas
Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing 
while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe 
tranny too while you are under there and nasty.


--R

On 3/3/13 3:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh 
thoughts.


I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get 
will help.


You need to remove the exhaust system first.  Support it, it is 
heavy.  Use new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke 
after awhile, gr).  An air wrench helps with the rusted front 
bolts connected to the manifold downpipes.  You probably will need to 
replace them as they will be all rusted and will strip the nuts or 
just break.


Then there is more stuff to do, I forget the sequence but it is fairly 
apparent.  Or RTFM for whatever it says.


You need to remove the driveshaft support (center carrier) and drop 
the rear of the tranny with a jack after removing the tranny support.  
So having the car up as high as you can safely have it to allow room 
for a floor jack (or I guess a cylinder jack would work too) will make 
your life easier.


You need to mark the 2 pieces of driveshaft so they can go back 
together the same.


Getting some of the flex disk bolts off and on is Not Fun but 
persistence and contortions and various wrenches will help. Probably 
want to use some thread locker on them.  I recall the front ones were 
a real PITA.   Oh, yeah, and the back ones too.


Replace the center bearing too while you are under there and have 
everything apart.


Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job, just some fiddly bits 
and crap falling in your eyes.


Be safe  most of all.  Those cars are heavy.

--R



On 3/2/13 11:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  
Isn't that

the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?

As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member 
just

aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?

Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Frederick
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
stands too.

Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.

Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
it and don't get it back together properly.

Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
separate it for this part of the job.

Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Rich Thomas

I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh thoughts.

I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get 
will help.


You need to remove the exhaust system first.  Support it, it is heavy.  
Use new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke after 
awhile, gr).  An air wrench helps with the rusted front bolts 
connected to the manifold downpipes.  You probably will need to replace 
them as they will be all rusted and will strip the nuts or just break.


Then there is more stuff to do, I forget the sequence but it is fairly 
apparent.  Or RTFM for whatever it says.


You need to remove the driveshaft support (center carrier) and drop the 
rear of the tranny with a jack after removing the tranny support.  So 
having the car up as high as you can safely have it to allow room for a 
floor jack (or I guess a cylinder jack would work too) will make your 
life easier.


You need to mark the 2 pieces of driveshaft so they can go back together 
the same.


Getting some of the flex disk bolts off and on is Not Fun but 
persistence and contortions and various wrenches will help. Probably 
want to use some thread locker on them.  I recall the front ones were a 
real PITA.   Oh, yeah, and the back ones too.


Replace the center bearing too while you are under there and have 
everything apart.


Otherwise it is a fairly straightforward job, just some fiddly bits and 
crap falling in your eyes.


Be safe  most of all.  Those cars are heavy.

--R



On 3/2/13 11:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't that
the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?

As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member just
aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?

Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Frederick
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
stands too.

Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.

Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
it and don't get it back together properly.

Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
separate it for this part of the job.

Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-03 Thread Peter Frederick
There is a small cross member that holds the carrier bearing, which  
you have to take down to do the rear flex disk anyway, else the shaft  
won't move enough to get it off the flex disk.


When you put it back together, be careful not to get the clamp nut too  
tight -- reef down on it and it will cause the shaft to vibrate, it  
has to move very sightly to allow the differences in length due to the  
u-joint.  Will sound and feel like a bad muffler if you get it too  
tight.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Benz Hogs
Yes.  Mark BOTH halves of the drive shaft with WHITE, or another light 
(easily identified) color BEFORE you separate them.  The cross member 
you speak of holds the tranny and tranny mount, it can stay in place to 
do the d/s bearing.


Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 "Max" (162,xxx mi)

On 3/2/2013 10:56 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:


Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't that
the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?

As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member just
aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?

Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Frederick
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
stands too.

Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed
so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.

Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate
it and don't get it back together properly.

Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not
perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.
Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must
separate it for this part of the job.

Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Scott Ritchey

Do I need to separate the driveshaft to do the carrier bearing?  Isn't that
the bearing/support in the middle of the shaft?

As I recall (it's been a while) isn't there some sort of cross member just
aft of the tranny?  Does that need to be removed for access?

Dan/Peter/Luther:  Thanks for all the help so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Frederick
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 7:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack  
stands too.

Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the  
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed  
so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.

Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them  
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate  
it and don't get it back together properly.

Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not  
perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.   
Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must  
separate it for this part of the job.

Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Benz Hogs
Make sure to use jack stands and not ramps.  You will need to turn the 
driveshaft, and that's a tiny bit challenging when on ramps :)


Plan to use a BFH (big hammer) to loosen the old flex disk from the 
drive shaft, it will be stubborn.



Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 "Max" (162,xxx mi)

On 3/2/2013 6:28 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack
stands too.

Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed so
that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.

Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate it
and don't get it back together properly.

Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not perfect,
they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.  Mark the
driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must separate it
for this part of the job.

Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Peter Frederick
Same as all the rest -- a lift helps, but I've done this job on jack  
stands too.


Pay attention to which way the bolts go, and put the new ones in the  
same way the old ones went.  This is important, as they are installed  
so that there is less chance of the nuts walking off the bolts.


Be careful not to separate the halves of the driveshaft, some of them  
are not marked, and it will almost surely vibrate if you do separate  
it and don't get it back together properly.


Replace the carrier bearing and rubber bushing if they are not  
perfect, they aren't expensive and it's only a very few steps more.   
Mark the driveshaft with something that will not wipe off as you must  
separate it for this part of the job.


Expect to get dirty, but this isn't a terrible job.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Dan Penoff
Pretty straightforward on the W126.

Get the car up in the air, have some 19mm wrenches handy, and go to it.  You 
might have to loosen the big nut on the drive shaft, but in most cases there is 
enough slop in the drive train you can push things apart with a pry bar.  A 
cheap plumber's basin wrench will do the job on the clamping but if you do need 
to loosen it.

You will have to separate the joints far enough to get the drive shaft off of 
the pin that's in the middle of the yoke.  Also be sure you grease up the 
bushing that fits over the pin before you reassemble.

Dropping the rear of the transmission, such as you might to change the 
transmission mount, makes it a little easier, but you'll need a jack to support 
the back of the transmission if you do.

DO NOT drop the drive shaft.  It's not necessary and you risk not getting it 
back together properly unless you mark it before removal.

Lots of grunt work, but not a terribly difficult job.

Also, don't buy the cheap Chinese flex discs.

Dan


On Mar 2, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:

> I need to replace the flex disks on my 1982 300 SD.  As far as I know, the
> old ones are original.  I haven't done this job on a 126 chassis so I'm
> looking for any advice before I call Rusty and start wrenching.  Thanks in
> advance for any insight.
> 
> 
> 
> Scott
> 
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[MBZ] Seeking Flex Disk Advice

2013-03-02 Thread Scott and Gwen Ritchey
I need to replace the flex disks on my 1982 300 SD.  As far as I know, the
old ones are original.  I haven't done this job on a 126 chassis so I'm
looking for any advice before I call Rusty and start wrenching.  Thanks in
advance for any insight.

 

Scott

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