Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Ah, now we can all again enjoy witty banter about "Frods," "Dogdes," and "Toadas." Alex Since these posts live on forever on albore's internet, the misspelling insures the post won't show up to some schmuck looking for toada info, for example. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
On Dec 16, 2013 4:15 PM, "Mountain Man" wrote: > > Dieselhead wrote: > > I agree about channellock. > > Dr Loren is back? > mao > Ah, now we can all again enjoy witty banter about "Frods," "Dogdes," and "Toadas." Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Yer hallucinatin agin Dieselhead wrote: I agree about channellock. Dr Loren is back? mao ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Dieselhead wrote: > I agree about channellock. Dr Loren is back? mao ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I agree about channellock. I agree about the nebraska Vicegrips, but the HF are not too bad for light to med duty. If you REALLY bear down on them, the real NE VG are best. I am not sure there is any real difference between the HF and the Irwin Vicegrips other than the color of the plastic. As for adjustable wrenches, old crescents are good, but I have more truecraft. AFIK, truecraft tools are still made in USA (but I have not bought any in the last 8-10 yrs) Truecraft have stood up to lots of abuse. My dad managed to break the handle on a 18" truecraft with probably a 5 or 6' cheater, but the handle was brazed and the wrench was good as ever. I have an 8" Fuller that is over 50 yrs old, and has ridden in every MB I have owned. It has been great also. I have a 12" williams that my F-I-L had for years and it is a great adjustable also. It is probably at least 60-70 years old. Williams used to make snears sockets in the 70s, and those were very good, but over priced. Williams made a lot of tools for the military. I'm not sure about Crescent, but Vice Grip became Irwin Vice Grip, and about five years ago moved the tooling from Nebraska to China. Supposedly they're still the same thing, but one wonders if the steel and heat treating are still top grade. http://www.nbcnews.com/id/26531610/ Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves my4uje5u
I'm not sure about Crescent, but Vice Grip became Irwin Vice Grip, and about five years ago moved the tooling from Nebraska to China. Supposedly they're still the same thing, but one wonders if the steel and heat treating are still top grade. http://www.nbcnews.com/id/26531610/ Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Curt wrote: > #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, > everything else is junk. > I also like the Knipex alligator pliers from Germany. mao ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
That's why I buy NOS or used when it comes to vice grips. If you haven't already, check out Liberty Tool in Liberty, Maine. That place is dangerous! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 14, 2013, at 7:03 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > I was disappointed that Crescent and Vice Grips don't appear to be made in > the USA. That said fake Vice grips aren't worth any money. I bought a pair of > the needle nose type at TSC last spring and they're worthless. > > Dad likes to buy cheap Chinese crap but got his comeuppance with a cheap pair > of slip joint pliers at camp. Finally bought Channellocks, they'll last > forever. > > -Curt > > Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:30:36 -0500 > From: dsereta...@yahoo.com > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves > Message-ID: <16157f53-a3a2-47e8-b4e8-bea4e76be...@yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii > > Couldn't agree more. The channelocks are quite affordable as well- sometimes > more so than the Chinese junk. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 14, 2013, at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > >> I have a couple commandments: >> >> #1. All locking pliers shall be Vice-Grip (lifetime guarantee!) brand, >> everything else is junk. >> >> #2. All adjustable wrenches shall be Crescent brand, everything else is junk. >> >> #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, >> everything else is junk. >> >> >> -Curt > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
That's why I either but NOS or used when it comes to Vic Sent from my iPhone On Dec 14, 2013, at 7:03 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > I was disappointed that Crescent and Vice Grips don't appear to be made in > the USA. That said fake Vice grips aren't worth any money. I bought a pair of > the needle nose type at TSC last spring and they're worthless. > > Dad likes to buy cheap Chinese crap but got his comeuppance with a cheap pair > of slip joint pliers at camp. Finally bought Channellocks, they'll last > forever. > > -Curt > > Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:30:36 -0500 > From: dsereta...@yahoo.com > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves > Message-ID: <16157f53-a3a2-47e8-b4e8-bea4e76be...@yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii > > Couldn't agree more. The channelocks are quite affordable as well- sometimes > more so than the Chinese junk. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 14, 2013, at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > >> I have a couple commandments: >> >> #1. All locking pliers shall be Vice-Grip (lifetime guarantee!) brand, >> everything else is junk. >> >> #2. All adjustable wrenches shall be Crescent brand, everything else is junk. >> >> #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, >> everything else is junk. >> >> >> -Curt > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I was disappointed that Crescent and Vice Grips don't appear to be made in the USA. That said fake Vice grips aren't worth any money. I bought a pair of the needle nose type at TSC last spring and they're worthless. Dad likes to buy cheap Chinese crap but got his comeuppance with a cheap pair of slip joint pliers at camp. Finally bought Channellocks, they'll last forever. -Curt Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:30:36 -0500 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves Message-ID: <16157f53-a3a2-47e8-b4e8-bea4e76be...@yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Couldn't agree more. The channelocks are quite affordable as well- sometimes more so than the Chinese junk. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 14, 2013, at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > I have a couple commandments: > > #1. All locking pliers shall be Vice-Grip (lifetime guarantee!) brand, > everything else is junk. > > #2. All adjustable wrenches shall be Crescent brand, everything else is junk. > > #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, > everything else is junk. > > > -Curt ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Couldn't agree more. The channelocks are quite affordable as well- sometimes more so than the Chinese junk. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 14, 2013, at 2:22 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: > I have a couple commandments: > > #1. All locking pliers shall be Vice-Grip (lifetime guarantee!) brand, > everything else is junk. > > #2. All adjustable wrenches shall be Crescent brand, everything else is junk. > > #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, > everything else is junk. > > > -Curt > > > Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:15:04 -0500 > From: Larry T > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves > Message-ID: <52ac8408.5080...@comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Thanks! I have a set of Vise Grips like that in my tool box. Will give > them a try... > > Sincerely, > Larry > > On 12/10/2013 7:45 PM, Alan Clarke wrote: >> Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I have a couple commandments: #1. All locking pliers shall be Vice-Grip (lifetime guarantee!) brand, everything else is junk. #2. All adjustable wrenches shall be Crescent brand, everything else is junk. #3. All slip joint pliers shall be Channellock (made in PA!) brand, everything else is junk. -Curt Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:15:04 -0500 From: Larry T To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves Message-ID: <52ac8408.5080...@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Thanks! I have a set of Vise Grips like that in my tool box. Will give them a try... Sincerely, Larry On 12/10/2013 7:45 PM, Alan Clarke wrote: > Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Thanks! I have a set of Vise Grips like that in my tool box. Will give them a try... Sincerely, Larry On 12/10/2013 7:45 PM, Alan Clarke wrote: Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I had a lot of sucess with Vice-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter. Amazon carries it for $10.38. I had the appropriate sized Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter On 12/8/2013 12:44 PM, Larry T wrote: Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
My God. Take the calipers off and fix them. No need to worry about hoses blowing off,seals ruined, etc. EASY OUT. Twist lightly and tap hard with a hammer. On the bench in a vice. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: > For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be > quite successful. > > When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly > quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, > not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the > offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond > which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. > > In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which > is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than > the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the > threads. > > After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the > tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat > faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply > a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. > > When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize > on the thread area to prevent future problems. > > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 9:20 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: > > > wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. > >> > > > > You're going to ruin it anyway, so grind off the chrome first. > > > > -- Jim > > > > > > > > ___ > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD '01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
No, I was lucky. It blew off but missed me. I did not get hit by the hose or the brake fluid but it sure taught me a lesson that I have not forgotten. Randy On 09/12/2013 2:54 PM, Larry T wrote: Yikes!! Thanks for the warning! I worried about the seals, etc. melting but didn't realize the pressure could get so high that it would burst the hose! Those hoses are made for high pressure! Hope you didn't get hurt? Sincerely, Larry On 12/9/2013 3:15 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: If you plan to use heat, then let me suggest that you cut or otherwise remove the brake hose first. The pressure buildup in a closed system can cause the hose to blow off. You can guess how I learned this. Randy On 09/12/2013 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Teflon tape will do the same thing, and also help seal them during bleeding, if that's an issue for you. Just be careful to have it only on the threads or outside of the caliper, none inside. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Larry T wrote: > You suggested < problems.>> > > The problem came from a nitwit using pliers which rounded the valve! But > yes, I will certainly do as you suggest and put some never seize on the > threads... ;-) > > Thanks! > > Sincerely, > Larry > > >> -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
No problem. If I had more time I would probably go ahead and rebuild them & the bench is the best for that - as you suggested - a variety of stuff is keeping us busy for the time being. Also - the same nitwit that rounded the bleed valve also worked his magic on the fasteners holding the rubber hose to the chassis. I have new hoses but need to get the rest of the fastener parts. (It's always something) - but my plan is to replace the bleeders so I can replace the brake fluid. then, when the moons align i will rebuild the calipers and replace the rubber hoses. Thx for the suggestion ;-) Sincerely, Larry On 12/9/2013 3:53 PM, G Mann wrote: Correct.. my apology for failing to cover that point.. My presumption was you would remove the caliper from the car and place it in a bench vice to gain clear and full access to the offending part. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:15 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: If you plan to use heat, then let me suggest that you cut or otherwise remove the brake hose first. The pressure buildup in a closed system can cause the hose to blow off. You can guess how I learned this. Randy On 09/12/2013 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I'll give it a shot! Thanks! ;-) Sincerely, Larry On 12/8/2013 9:58 PM, OK Don wrote: Sounds like you are applying a bending force to the EZ-out. They've always worked to me and I've never broken one. Perhaps use a tap wrench to turn it - equal pressure on opposite side would reduce the tendency to bend it? On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 7:36 PM, Larry T wrote: yeah, a EZ-Out - I don't know about the rest of the B-I-Yers (break it yourself as opposed to Fix it yourself) here but every time I have tried an EZ Out I usually break the tool off in the thing I'm tryng to remove or I round it out.It seems dirt simple - insert, apply CCW force to break loose but it never works for me. ;-) Suggestions on what I might be doing wrong? I have learned one thing - getting a piece of hardened tool steel out of a small hole is tough! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Good point ;-) Sincerely, Larry On 12/9/2013 11:20 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. You're going to ruin it anyway, so grind off the chrome first. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
You suggested> The problem came from a nitwit using pliers which rounded the valve! But yes, I will certainly do as you suggest and put some never seize on the threads... ;-) Thanks! Sincerely, Larry On 12/9/2013 12:26 PM, G Mann wrote: For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 9:20 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. You're going to ruin it anyway, so grind off the chrome first. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Yikes!! Thanks for the warning! I worried about the seals, etc. melting but didn't realize the pressure could get so high that it would burst the hose! Those hoses are made for high pressure! Hope you didn't get hurt? Sincerely, Larry On 12/9/2013 3:15 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: If you plan to use heat, then let me suggest that you cut or otherwise remove the brake hose first. The pressure buildup in a closed system can cause the hose to blow off. You can guess how I learned this. Randy On 09/12/2013 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Correct.. my apology for failing to cover that point.. My presumption was you would remove the caliper from the car and place it in a bench vice to gain clear and full access to the offending part. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:15 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: > If you plan to use heat, then let me suggest that you cut or otherwise > remove the brake hose first. > The pressure buildup in a closed system can cause the hose to blow off. > You can guess how I learned this. > > Randy > > On 09/12/2013 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: > >> For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be >> quite successful. >> >> When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly >> quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on >> squirt, >> not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the >> offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust >> bond >> which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. >> >> In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, >> which >> is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than >> the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at >> the >> threads. >> >> After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the >> tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat >> faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply >> a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. >> >> When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize >> on the thread area to prevent future problems. >> >> >> >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
If you plan to use heat, then let me suggest that you cut or otherwise remove the brake hose first. The pressure buildup in a closed system can cause the hose to blow off. You can guess how I learned this. Randy On 09/12/2013 11:26 AM, G Mann wrote: For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
For rusted in place fasteners, I've found a "heat and quench" method to be quite successful. When you heat the offending part to a very dull red heat, then quickly quench it [water will do, for localize quench [ spray bottle set on squirt, not spray] I have used an ice cube to draw off the heat quickly] the offending fastener will shrink. This shrinking action breaks the rust bond which has "welded" the fastener in place at the threads. In the case of your brake caliper which is cast, and the bleed screw, which is steel, the density of the cast caliper will lose heat less quickly than the bleed screw so you should get a good separation of the rust bond at the threads. After cooling, give the fastener a sharp rap with a hammer directly on the tip to jar lose the rust flakes, [might have to use a hammer and a flat faced punch due to the lack of space available to get a good "rap" ] apply a good vice grip [clean sharp jaws] and remove. When you replace the new bleed screw, I would suggest you use never-seize on the thread area to prevent future problems. On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 9:20 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: > wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. >> > > You're going to ruin it anyway, so grind off the chrome first. > > -- Jim > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. You're going to ruin it anyway, so grind off the chrome first. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Probably just luck but I haven't had to use easy-outs since using a little trick with visegrips. Having soaked the valve with several solvents overnight, and being careful not to get the visegrip too tight, I open and re-clamp them all the way around the valve in order to distort them slightly and break the corrosion. Then I put on more solvent and repeat the process. Putting a constant, steady pressure on the valve I try turning it every 30 minutes with more solvent each time. So far, it's worked. Note: Be sure and watch for the slightest turn of the valve. If so, use more solvent and try again in 30 minutes. Good luck, Gerry On 12/8/2013 8:39 PM, Larry T wrote: That might work hmmm or i could weld a nut to the bleeder? So many wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. another suggestion to consider. thanks! I assume I would have to be careful not to get the caliper too hot or I'll be rebuilding the calipers thx agn Sincerely, Larry On 12/8/2013 5:26 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Weld a cheap harbor freight wrench onto the bleeder screw. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 8, 2013, at 5:05 PM, OK Don wrote: i'm guessing that you haven't broken them off yet? Do you have new ones to replace the old ones once you get them out? If so, use the alrgest pair of vice grips you can get in there, with nice sharp teeth. Shoud be able to either unscrew them (though they might not be round anymore) or break them off so an EZ-out can be used to finish the job. On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote: Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! -- Sincerely, Larry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Sounds like you are applying a bending force to the EZ-out. They've always worked to me and I've never broken one. Perhaps use a tap wrench to turn it - equal pressure on opposite side would reduce the tendency to bend it? On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 7:36 PM, Larry T wrote: > > yeah, a EZ-Out - I don't know about the rest of the B-I-Yers (break it > yourself as opposed to Fix it yourself) here but every time I have tried an > EZ Out I usually break the tool off in the thing I'm tryng to remove or I > round it out.It seems dirt simple - insert, apply CCW force to break > loose but it never works for me. ;-) Suggestions on what I might be > doing wrong? I have learned one thing - getting a piece of hardened tool > steel out of a small hole is tough! > -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
so a little heat might free it up? Hmmm Good idea - I can try that with my vise grips and see if they'll break loose.then I can put the new one in and bleed the brakes. Now that the temps are in the 20s,30s and 40s this should be just the time for some fun on the garage floor. ;-) I may even have a small hand held torch like you 2 are talking about... Should be easier than tacking a nut or wrench onto the bleeder... Sincerely, Larry On 12/8/2013 7:39 PM, OK Don wrote: You could put the pen style in a coat pocket. They are great - I use one for soldering PL-259 plugs onto RG-8 coax. Works anywhere, and better than my old Weller soldering gun. It might be just the thing for a frozen bleeder valve, now that you mention it! On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 6:21 PM, clay wrote: store it at the bottom of the tool kit. Yards I like are not too picky about searching. I would just need it to get the ice to let go of nuts clay On Dec 8, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: I am going to be adding one of the little pen torches or creme brulee things to my tool box. I needed one in the worst ways Friday when the C107 PnP steering wheel was iced up Pretty sure our yard doesn't like burny things, might have to be sneaky/careful. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
That might work hmmm or i could weld a nut to the bleeder? So many wrenches are chrome plated they can be hard to weld. another suggestion to consider. thanks! I assume I would have to be careful not to get the caliper too hot or I'll be rebuilding the calipers thx agn Sincerely, Larry On 12/8/2013 5:26 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Weld a cheap harbor freight wrench onto the bleeder screw. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 8, 2013, at 5:05 PM, OK Don wrote: i'm guessing that you haven't broken them off yet? Do you have new ones to replace the old ones once you get them out? If so, use the alrgest pair of vice grips you can get in there, with nice sharp teeth. Shoud be able to either unscrew them (though they might not be round anymore) or break them off so an EZ-out can be used to finish the job. On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote: Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! -- Sincerely, Larry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Nope, have not broken them (yet) -- I was thinking of having my Indy remove them before I get a chance to break them. But if i can remove them myself I'd rather. yep, I have replacements. Actually i had planned to replace the calipers with a pair I had bought but they have a different bolt dimension. I bought a set of R & R calipers from a list member but wil have to check records to remember who. The fronts worked perfectly. Hmm... Vise Grips. Yeah, I can try that - I have a new pair with sharp teeth that should cut into the valves rather than rounding it yeah, a EZ-Out - I don't know about the rest of the B-I-Yers (break it yourself as opposed to Fix it yourself) here but every time I have tried an EZ Out I usually break the tool off in the thing I'm tryng to remove or I round it out.It seems dirt simple - insert, apply CCW force to break loose but it never works for me. ;-) Suggestions on what I might be doing wrong? I have learned one thing - getting a piece of hardened tool steel out of a small hole is tough! I'll ponder your suggestion while i read the rest of the list suggestions. Thanks!! Sincerely, LarryT On 12/8/2013 5:05 PM, OK Don wrote: i'm guessing that you haven't broken them off yet? Do you have new ones to replace the old ones once you get them out? If so, use the alrgest pair of vice grips you can get in there, with nice sharp teeth. Shoud be able to either unscrew them (though they might not be round anymore) or break them off so an EZ-out can be used to finish the job. On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote: Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! -- Sincerely, Larry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
You could put the pen style in a coat pocket. They are great - I use one for soldering PL-259 plugs onto RG-8 coax. Works anywhere, and better than my old Weller soldering gun. It might be just the thing for a frozen bleeder valve, now that you mention it! On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 6:21 PM, clay wrote: > store it at the bottom of the tool kit. Yards I like are not too picky > about searching. I would just need it to get the ice to let go of nuts > > clay > > On Dec 8, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: > > >> I am going to be adding one of the little pen torches or creme brulee > things to my tool box. I needed one in the worst ways Friday when the > C107 PnP steering wheel was iced up > > > > Pretty sure our yard doesn't like burny things, might > > have to be sneaky/careful. > > > > -- Jim > > > -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
store it at the bottom of the tool kit. Yards I like are not too picky about searching. I would just need it to get the ice to let go of nuts clay On Dec 8, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: >> I am going to be adding one of the little pen torches or creme brulee things >> to my tool box. I needed one in the worst ways Friday when the C107 PnP >> steering wheel was iced up > > Pretty sure our yard doesn't like burny things, might > have to be sneaky/careful. > > -- Jim > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I am going to be adding one of the little pen torches or creme brulee things to my tool box. I needed one in the worst ways Friday when the C107 PnP steering wheel was iced up Pretty sure our yard doesn't like burny things, might have to be sneaky/careful. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
I am going to be adding one of the little pen torches or creme brulee things to my tool box. I needed one in the worst ways Friday when the C107 PnP steering wheel was iced up --- clay On Dec 8, 2013, at 3:50 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: >> what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? > > Acetylene? Red heat does wonders for rust. > > -- Jim > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? Acetylene? Red heat does wonders for rust. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Weld a cheap harbor freight wrench onto the bleeder screw. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 8, 2013, at 5:05 PM, OK Don wrote: > i'm guessing that you haven't broken them off yet? Do you have new ones to > replace the old ones once you get them out? If so, use the alrgest pair of > vice grips you can get in there, with nice sharp teeth. Shoud be able to > either unscrew them (though they might not be round anymore) or break them > off so an EZ-out can be used to finish the job. > > > On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote: > >> Hi Gang - >>I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 >> 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time >> (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses >> between the caliper and chassis). >> >> I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to >> remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. >> The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I >> need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to >> remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - >> it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough >> room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - >> >>So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need >> to change the fluid... >> Thanks! >> >> -- >> Sincerely, >> Larry >> >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > > -- > OK Don > "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary > safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 > "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." > - Benjamin Franklin 1789 > 2013 F150, 18 mpg > 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
i'm guessing that you haven't broken them off yet? Do you have new ones to replace the old ones once you get them out? If so, use the alrgest pair of vice grips you can get in there, with nice sharp teeth. Shoud be able to either unscrew them (though they might not be round anymore) or break them off so an EZ-out can be used to finish the job. On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote: > Hi Gang - > I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 > 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time > (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses > between the caliper and chassis). > > I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to > remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. > The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I > need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to > remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - > it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough > room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - > > So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need > to change the fluid... > Thanks! > > -- > Sincerely, > Larry > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] removing Bleed Valves
Hi Gang - I need to remove the bleed valves from the rear calipers on my '91 300D. It looks like someone used a pair of pliers on them at one time (definitely not me) and rounded them off. (Same for the rubber hoses between the caliper and chassis). I have a set of reverse drill bits as well as some things intended to remove stuck screws/nuts/etc by digging into them and unscrewing them. The thing is, I haven't had much luck getting them to dig into the parts I need to remove - I end up drilling a shiny hole in the thing I wanted to remove. and i'd rather not start something I can't finish on the 300D - it's my wife's car. I have a stud remover but I don't think there's enough room to fit it onto the Bleeder.. I need to confirm that though - So, what's the best way to remove the bleeder valves? I really need to change the fluid... Thanks! -- Sincerely, Larry ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
