Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-18 Thread Rolf
Its really easy to tell when you are at TDC. You  just have to be 
careful. I was overly anal about it and had no problems. Old seals were 
swapped I/E.


-Rolf

On 03/15/2011 04:11 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

It's statements like this that discourage me from trying this job on my own:

Then remove the spring. If the valve falls in the piston then the head has
to come off.


On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 3:30 PM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com  wrote:


I have done this job and it is straight forward, just remove the rocker
arms rotate the cylinder you are working on to TDC and then remove the two
nuts, retainer cap, spring and replace the valve stem. Great chance to
replace the roto caps (top nut). The important thing here is to make DAMN
sure you are at TDC on that cylinder. I did this by pushing down on the
valve spring (valve dully assempled) with a wooden handle (per FSM I think).
It is clearly evident when the cylinder is and is not at TDC. Even then I
kept a plastic edge against the valve when taking off the nuts and the plate
on top. Once that is done, put the nut back on and then let the valve down
until it rests on the piston. Then remove the spring. If the valve falls in
the piston then the head has to come off.

Another thing, while the valves are loose you can slide them up and down,
they should be smooth. Once of mine was biting a bit, 1yr later I have a
sticking valve.

-Rolf


On 03/15/2011 09:22 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Sorry if I am a bit late coming into this conversation but...

I never heard of anyone doing this job on a Mercedes diesel - just on the
W107 V8 models, e.g 1978 450 SL C.  What are the symptoms you hope to cure
with this repair and how do you know it will work?  on the W107s it just
buys some time on the inevitable need for a valve job.

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 10:01 PM, Dan Penofflwb...@yahoo.com   wrote:

I may be off base here, but my recollection of this job does not require

removal of the cam, just the cam followers. You use a valve spring
compressor for removal of the followers, after which you can easily
remove
the valve springs and keepers.

Dan

Sent from my iPod

On Mar 14, 2011, at 2:45 PM, glenn browng_010...@hotmail.com   wrote:

For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop
engine manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms
with
rocker arm brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the
nightmare scenario of disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain
to
the sprocket, etc., I don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and
brackets.  Any clues other than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the
rocker
arm brackets just sit on top of the block or are there studs on the
bottom
of the rocker arm brackets which extend/lock into the head?  TIA.


G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-15 Thread andrew strasfogel
Sorry if I am a bit late coming into this conversation but...

I never heard of anyone doing this job on a Mercedes diesel - just on the
W107 V8 models, e.g 1978 450 SL C.  What are the symptoms you hope to cure
with this repair and how do you know it will work?  on the W107s it just
buys some time on the inevitable need for a valve job.

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 10:01 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I may be off base here, but my recollection of this job does not require
 removal of the cam, just the cam followers. You use a valve spring
 compressor for removal of the followers, after which you can easily remove
 the valve springs and keepers.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPod

 On Mar 14, 2011, at 2:45 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:

 
  For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop
 engine manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms with
 rocker arm brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the
 nightmare scenario of disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain to
 the sprocket, etc., I don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and
 brackets.  Any clues other than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the rocker
 arm brackets just sit on top of the block or are there studs on the bottom
 of the rocker arm brackets which extend/lock into the head?  TIA.
 
  G. M. Brown
  Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-15 Thread Rolf


I have done this job and it is straight forward, just remove the rocker 
arms rotate the cylinder you are working on to TDC and then remove the 
two nuts, retainer cap, spring and replace the valve stem. Great chance 
to replace the roto caps (top nut). The important thing here is to make 
DAMN sure you are at TDC on that cylinder. I did this by pushing down on 
the valve spring (valve dully assempled) with a wooden handle (per FSM I 
think). It is clearly evident when the cylinder is and is not at TDC. 
Even then I kept a plastic edge against the valve when taking off the 
nuts and the plate on top. Once that is done, put the nut back on and 
then let the valve down until it rests on the piston. Then remove the 
spring. If the valve falls in the piston then the head has to come off.


Another thing, while the valves are loose you can slide them up and 
down, they should be smooth. Once of mine was biting a bit, 1yr later I 
have a sticking valve.


-Rolf

On 03/15/2011 09:22 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Sorry if I am a bit late coming into this conversation but...

I never heard of anyone doing this job on a Mercedes diesel - just on the
W107 V8 models, e.g 1978 450 SL C.  What are the symptoms you hope to cure
with this repair and how do you know it will work?  on the W107s it just
buys some time on the inevitable need for a valve job.

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 10:01 PM, Dan Penofflwb...@yahoo.com  wrote:


I may be off base here, but my recollection of this job does not require
removal of the cam, just the cam followers. You use a valve spring
compressor for removal of the followers, after which you can easily remove
the valve springs and keepers.

Dan

Sent from my iPod

On Mar 14, 2011, at 2:45 PM, glenn browng_010...@hotmail.com  wrote:


For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop

engine manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms with
rocker arm brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the
nightmare scenario of disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain to
the sprocket, etc., I don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and
brackets.  Any clues other than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the rocker
arm brackets just sit on top of the block or are there studs on the bottom
of the rocker arm brackets which extend/lock into the head?  TIA.

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-15 Thread andrew strasfogel
It's statements like this that discourage me from trying this job on my own:

Then remove the spring. If the valve falls in the piston then the head has
to come off.


On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 3:30 PM, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:


 I have done this job and it is straight forward, just remove the rocker
 arms rotate the cylinder you are working on to TDC and then remove the two
 nuts, retainer cap, spring and replace the valve stem. Great chance to
 replace the roto caps (top nut). The important thing here is to make DAMN
 sure you are at TDC on that cylinder. I did this by pushing down on the
 valve spring (valve dully assempled) with a wooden handle (per FSM I think).
 It is clearly evident when the cylinder is and is not at TDC. Even then I
 kept a plastic edge against the valve when taking off the nuts and the plate
 on top. Once that is done, put the nut back on and then let the valve down
 until it rests on the piston. Then remove the spring. If the valve falls in
 the piston then the head has to come off.

 Another thing, while the valves are loose you can slide them up and down,
 they should be smooth. Once of mine was biting a bit, 1yr later I have a
 sticking valve.

 -Rolf


 On 03/15/2011 09:22 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 Sorry if I am a bit late coming into this conversation but...

 I never heard of anyone doing this job on a Mercedes diesel - just on the
 W107 V8 models, e.g 1978 450 SL C.  What are the symptoms you hope to cure
 with this repair and how do you know it will work?  on the W107s it just
 buys some time on the inevitable need for a valve job.

 On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 10:01 PM, Dan Penofflwb...@yahoo.com  wrote:

 I may be off base here, but my recollection of this job does not require
 removal of the cam, just the cam followers. You use a valve spring
 compressor for removal of the followers, after which you can easily
 remove
 the valve springs and keepers.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPod

 On Mar 14, 2011, at 2:45 PM, glenn browng_010...@hotmail.com  wrote:

 For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop

 engine manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms
 with
 rocker arm brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the
 nightmare scenario of disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain
 to
 the sprocket, etc., I don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and
 brackets.  Any clues other than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the
 rocker
 arm brackets just sit on top of the block or are there studs on the
 bottom
 of the rocker arm brackets which extend/lock into the head?  TIA.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
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[MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-14 Thread glenn brown

For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop engine 
manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms with rocker arm 
brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the nightmare scenario of 
disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain to the sprocket, etc., I 
don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and brackets.  Any clues other 
than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the rocker arm brackets just sit on top 
of the block or are there studs on the bottom of the rocker arm brackets which 
extend/lock into the head?  TIA.
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC   
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Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-14 Thread Peter Frederick
There is a point in the rotation of the engine where ALL the  
followers are loose (on a 5 cylinder, one point for the front set and  
one for the rear).  Unbolt and the carriers come off the shallow  
locator and slide out sideways.


You do not need to remove the cam.

Looks impossible, but it works.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] replacing valve stem seals in '85 300TD

2011-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I may be off base here, but my recollection of this job does not require 
removal of the cam, just the cam followers. You use a valve spring compressor 
for removal of the followers, after which you can easily remove the valve 
springs and keepers.

Dan

Sent from my iPod

On Mar 14, 2011, at 2:45 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:

 
 For those of you who may have done this job before, the MB workshop engine 
 manual indicates in step 1 of job 05-270 to Remove rocker arms with rocker 
 arm brackets (05-235).  Other than what I consider to be the nightmare 
 scenario of disconnecting the cam, tying down the timing chain to the 
 sprocket, etc., I don't see an easy way to remove the rocker arms and 
 brackets.  Any clues other than the nightmare scenario?  Also, do the rocker 
 arm brackets just sit on top of the block or are there studs on the bottom of 
 the rocker arm brackets which extend/lock into the head?  TIA.
 
 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC 
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