Re: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today)
On Apr 10, 2006, at 3:54 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: Maybe I should put it up on eBay! -- Jim If it looks like Christ or Barney or ... some collector would pay sick money for it. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today)
If you were here, I'd pay you $4 an hour to work on the golf course, you could quit when you got rich. Nah, I've got this little, umm, _problem_ with gophers... A shorted (low resistance) plug is VERY unusual, but you've obviously found one. Usually a short will blow the fuse (or if it's internal to Maybe I should put it up on eBay! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today)
A shorted (low resistance) plug is VERY unusual, but you've obviously found one. Usually a short will blow the fuse (or if it's internal to the glow plug, the plug shortly will fail). All the dash light NOT illuminating means is that the system needs to be serviced. Usually it's an open plug, but not always. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today)
Don't tell SWMBA this but someone as smart as you are only unemployed because you want to be :>). If you were here, I'd pay you $4 an hour to work on the golf course, you could quit when you got rich. Harry - Original Message - From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 11:10 AM Subject: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today) > Replaced the bad #2 glow plug. I'd bought the replacement a long time > ago, the old plug measured some 30+ ohms, versus the 0.6 ohms it ought > to. Fortunately for me #2 is the one you can reach without taking off > the intake manifold, so it was fairly easy (a relative term!) to > replace. I almost blew it because I couldn't find my deep 12mm socket > and tried to make do with the regular one only half-engaged. After > rounding off the shoulder of the plug I looked harder, and eventually > found my set of deep metrics. That and a shot of PB and it came right > out. > > With all five plugs measuring reasonably I turned on the key, to find > no glow plug light and a harsh buzzing from under the hood. Tracking > it down resulted in finding that the GP relay (005 545 18 32) was > buzzing. I double-checked the wiring to it and its fuse, everything > looked good. No buzzing if the GP's were unplugged, and directly > jumping the ignition terminal at the relay resulted in the same > symptoms. I grabbed a spare 5-cylinder GP relay (Bosch, 002 545 06 > 32) from the parts pile, no doubt from some 123, and plugged it in its > place. It worked fine, though still didn't light the dash light > (which does work, I've gotten it to come on sometimes). So I'm going > to open up the relay and have a look. The 123 relay is non-optimal > because the mounting ears are on the wrong side. > > Inside the relay nothing looked obviously bad. I'll probably try a > resolder job on it, but first I have to strip the protective coating > off of the board. The current 'measuring' is somewhat elegantly done > by a reed switch. GP's #2-4 are fed through a single fat winding of > strap copper around the reed switch. GP #1 is fed through a narrower > counter-wound coil located inside the strap, it probably has three > turns (it's hard to see). If the GP's all draw equal current, the two > flux paths roughly cancel and the reed switch sees insignificant > magnetic flux and doesn't close. #5 is an obvious bag on the side, > and has its own reed switch with a 6-turn coil (in series with #5) > around it. One presumes that its switch is logically combined with > the other one to run the light. > > The stripping and resoldering went fine and the relay no longer > buzzes. But the dash light still doesn't go on. Probing shows that > both reed switches activate, and I think the main one is not supposed > to if everything is OK. I opened the Bosch relay and found that it's > built somewhat differently. There's only a single reed switch, with > two countered assymetrical windings. #1, again, is pitted against the > other four. (If you ask me, it's a better design.) > > The backwards housing can be corrected just by putting it back > together the other way around, so if I ever need to I can substitute > the 123 relay into the 201. > > On the bench, the repaired relay seems to work properly. With the > reed switch from #5 jumpered 'on', the lamp output goes high for > awhile when power is applied, then goes out. If the starter terminal > is momentarily powered the relay shuts off when the starter terminal > is released. The relay seems to be fine, so I reinstalled it in the > car. > > ...Which only leaves the glow plugs themselves. Measuring resistance > is only a poor substitute on high-current items like these. I grabbed > a big Cherry microswitch and two alligator leads, and the clamp-on > ammeter. I measured the current draw of each of the glow plugs in > turn, and found that all but #1 started off at about 25A and dropped > down to around 12A as it heated up. #1, however, started off at 40A > and dropped down to 25A. As it's drawing nearly 2x the current it > should, the magnetic circuit _is_ imbalanced and the light _should_ > be off. I'll have to order another glow plug for #1. But the car > should start anyway even if #1 is getting too hot! > > -- Jim > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] 190D status (glow plugs today)
When my dash light wasn't lighting, I just replaced all 5 GPs at once and saved the headache of diagnosis entirely. Never had a problem again. On 4/10/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Replaced the bad #2 glow plug. I'd bought the replacement a long time > ago, the old plug measured some 30+ ohms, versus the 0.6 ohms it ought > to. Fortunately for me #2 is the one you can reach without taking off > the intake manifold, so it was fairly easy (a relative term!) to > replace. I almost blew it because I couldn't find my deep 12mm socket > and tried to make do with the regular one only half-engaged. After > rounding off the shoulder of the plug I looked harder, and eventually > found my set of deep metrics. That and a shot of PB and it came right > out. > > With all five plugs measuring reasonably I turned on the key, to find > no glow plug light and a harsh buzzing from under the hood. Tracking > it down resulted in finding that the GP relay (005 545 18 32) was > buzzing. I double-checked the wiring to it and its fuse, everything > looked good. No buzzing if the GP's were unplugged, and directly > jumping the ignition terminal at the relay resulted in the same > symptoms. I grabbed a spare 5-cylinder GP relay (Bosch, 002 545 06 > 32) from the parts pile, no doubt from some 123, and plugged it in its > place. It worked fine, though still didn't light the dash light > (which does work, I've gotten it to come on sometimes). So I'm going > to open up the relay and have a look. The 123 relay is non-optimal > because the mounting ears are on the wrong side. > > Inside the relay nothing looked obviously bad. I'll probably try a > resolder job on it, but first I have to strip the protective coating > off of the board. The current 'measuring' is somewhat elegantly done > by a reed switch. GP's #2-4 are fed through a single fat winding of > strap copper around the reed switch. GP #1 is fed through a narrower > counter-wound coil located inside the strap, it probably has three > turns (it's hard to see). If the GP's all draw equal current, the two > flux paths roughly cancel and the reed switch sees insignificant > magnetic flux and doesn't close. #5 is an obvious bag on the side, > and has its own reed switch with a 6-turn coil (in series with #5) > around it. One presumes that its switch is logically combined with > the other one to run the light. > > The stripping and resoldering went fine and the relay no longer > buzzes. But the dash light still doesn't go on. Probing shows that > both reed switches activate, and I think the main one is not supposed > to if everything is OK. I opened the Bosch relay and found that it's > built somewhat differently. There's only a single reed switch, with > two countered assymetrical windings. #1, again, is pitted against the > other four. (If you ask me, it's a better design.) > > The backwards housing can be corrected just by putting it back > together the other way around, so if I ever need to I can substitute > the 123 relay into the 201. > > On the bench, the repaired relay seems to work properly. With the > reed switch from #5 jumpered 'on', the lamp output goes high for > awhile when power is applied, then goes out. If the starter terminal > is momentarily powered the relay shuts off when the starter terminal > is released. The relay seems to be fine, so I reinstalled it in the > car. > > ...Which only leaves the glow plugs themselves. Measuring resistance > is only a poor substitute on high-current items like these. I grabbed > a big Cherry microswitch and two alligator leads, and the clamp-on > ammeter. I measured the current draw of each of the glow plugs in > turn, and found that all but #1 started off at about 25A and dropped > down to around 12A as it heated up. #1, however, started off at 40A > and dropped down to 25A. As it's drawing nearly 2x the current it > should, the magnetic circuit _is_ imbalanced and the light _should_ > be off. I'll have to order another glow plug for #1. But the car > should start anyway even if #1 is getting too hot! > > -- Jim > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
