Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
I'm convinced! Now - where did I leave the soldapult? I have a LOT of pots and sliders that need lubricating after another good cleaning - I ordered the 100% deoxit and some spray lube. We'll seewhat I end up with. Thanks! On 8/24/06, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote: After my experience on the CC amps, I resolder on principle. I tried just reflowing, and looked at it with a strong light and saw pinholes in the joints. I then tried adding solder to a reflow and after 3x on a dozen samples, I was unable to get consisistently good results, and I did not want to cook anything, I got annoyed and started using a soldapult and resoldering. On the PB boxes the only place I would worry about doing that is the switches themselves since they take daily abuse (using the electrical joints for mechanical support counts as abuse IMHO) BTW you might want to check the diodes in there to see if any are putzed. They should be common IN400x types. Has anyone considered tracing out the pump wire and putting a fuse (or perhaps a PTC termistor .. ) on it internally ? (I suggest a PTC since it is common to use an NTC for soft-start in tube stuff) -j. I'm convinced! Now - where did I leave the soldapult? I have a LOT of pots and sliders that need lubricating after another good cleaning - I ordered the 100% deoxit and some spray lube. We'll seewhat I end up with. Thanks! -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
I'm convinced! Now - where did I leave the soldapult? Reheating never did me any good. I always add a dab of new solder, and it works very well unless there's a bad oxidation problem. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote: I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty. I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot of connections on those boards! Use deoxit. You might want to try the non-aerosol which is 100%. make sure to work the switch several times after applying it. Follow it with cailube. I dunno how the switches in those units are made, but if you can get to the contacts, tarn-x works wonders (more than one stack switch in a preamp or scope has been resurrected with tarn-x)... Oh yeah... completely remove ALL of the old solder and rpelace it with new. The old stuff is utter crap. Use 63/37 if you can find it, with that stuff it is quite hard (theoretically impossible) to make a cold joint (looks good but is bad) -j.
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before) http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part numbers remain the same) I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40 multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago). On 8/23/06, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote: I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty. I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot of connections on those boards! Use deoxit. You might want to try the non-aerosol which is 100%. make sure to work the switch several times after applying it. Follow it with cailube. I dunno how the switches in those units are made, but if you can get to the contacts, tarn-x works wonders (more than one stack switch in a preamp or scope has been resurrected with tarn-x)... Oh yeah... completely remove ALL of the old solder and rpelace it with new. The old stuff is utter crap. Use 63/37 if you can find it, with that stuff it is quite hard (theoretically impossible) to make a cold joint (looks good but is bad) -j. Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before) http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part numbers remain the same) I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40 multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago). -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Traveling east anytime soon? We have 2 cans of Deoxit around here. Luther On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 20:54:56 -0500, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before) http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part numbers remain the same) I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40 multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago). On 8/23/06, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote: I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty. I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot of connections on those boards! Use deoxit. You might want to try the non-aerosol which is 100%. make sure to work the switch several times after applying it. Follow it with cailube. I dunno how the switches in those units are made, but if you can get to the contacts, tarn-x works wonders (more than one stack switch in a preamp or scope has been resurrected with tarn-x)... Oh yeah... completely remove ALL of the old solder and rpelace it with new. The old stuff is utter crap. Use 63/37 if you can find it, with that stuff it is quite hard (theoretically impossible) to make a cold joint (looks good but is bad) -j. Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before) http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part numbers remain the same) I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40 multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago). -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (236 kmi) '82 300CD (160 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Thanks for the offer - I just ordered it from the source -- easier (and less Diesel) then hunting for it around town. On 8/23/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Traveling east anytime soon? We have 2 cans of Deoxit around here. Luther Thanks for the offer - I just ordered it from the source -- easier (and less Diesel) then hunting for it around town. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK Bracket posting fiend -- '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part numbers remain the same) Yep that is the stuff. It is really great on pots, btw. I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40 multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago). After my experience on the CC amps, I resolder on principle. I tried just reflowing, and looked at it with a strong light and saw pinholes in the joints. I then tried adding solder to a reflow and after 3x on a dozen samples, I was unable to get consisistently good results, and I did not want to cook anything, I got annoyed and started using a soldapult and resoldering. On the PB boxes the only place I would worry about doing that is the switches themselves since they take daily abuse (using the electrical joints for mechanical support counts as abuse IMHO) BTW you might want to check the diodes in there to see if any are putzed. They should be common IN400x types. Has anyone considered tracing out the pump wire and putting a fuse (or perhaps a PTC termistor .. ) on it internally ? (I suggest a PTC since it is common to use an NTC for soft-start in tube stuff) -j.
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
yes andrew strasfogel wrote: Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn? On 8/21/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: key word, shouldnt OK Don wrote: It shouldn't be - it's almost new. On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
In that case, I have a good USED monovalve for sale! On 8/22/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: yes andrew strasfogel wrote: Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn? On 8/21/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: key word, shouldnt OK Don wrote: It shouldn't be - it's almost new. On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
The SDL came home for a little while this evening, so I took it out for a diagnosis run. The outside air temp dropped considerably - it was only 88F on the car dash thermometer. With the ACC set on max cool, the air from the center vetns dropped down to 50F, only a 38F drop, but a lot better than I had last Friday. I next pushed the EC button - the air from the center vents rose to 60F and stayed there. Then I thought to take it off max cool and set it at 20Ctemp - the air from the center vents rose to 65F. I then pushed the EC button many times, rather vigorously, and the air temp rose to 81F. I drove it home, parked it, and measured the temp of the drive at the garage door - in the shade - and it read 80F. So my diagnosis is a flaky push button unit - and possibly an intermittent sticky mono valve. What do you think? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
from the center vents rose to 65F. I then pushed the EC button many times, rather vigorously, and the air temp rose to 81F. I drove it home, parked it, and measured the temp of the drive at the garage door - in the shade - and it read 80F. So my diagnosis is a flaky push button unit - and possibly an intermittent sticky mono valve. What do you think? I think you may be right. If messing with a button like that changed its behavior something in the area ain't right. Time for a resolder! (Plug: I do those, if you're interested. http://cathey.dogear.com/mamerepairs.html) If the monovalve opens for any length of time and the AC isn't on, vent temps shoot to 140 degrees or thereabouts. But, depending on conditions the cold soak from the AC takes some time to dissipate, vent temps _should_ rise to ambient when the compressor is off. Takes a bit of time though, did you wait long enough before messing with the buttons? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
OK Don wrote: I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty. I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot of connections on those boards! I was measuring the temp almost constantly - so was watching the temp drop, then stabilize. It would fluctuate a degree or so, but stopped the general upward trend for a block or more. (I lucky I didn't run over anyone - measuring while driving!). DeoxIT has made a BIG difference on my 300TD pushbutton switches (the 124 pushbutton control is virtually identical to that in a 300SDL). Might be worth checking the sensors (evaporator, cabin temp, engine temp, etc) as when they act up some strange things CAN happen. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Jeepers H Christmas Jim, you've really gone to town on that shingle page! Great info there. I'll probably be sending you the cruise amp (and dead KLIMA donation) from my 124. (Plug: I do those, if you're interested. http://cathey.dogear.com/mamerepairs.html) Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler #22 (217k) '84 300D (216k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Jeepers H Christmas Jim, you've really gone to town on that shingle page! I can do the writing sitting on my butt inside out of the heat. It's that or go outside and wrench! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
It shouldn't be - it's almost new. On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
checked the pressures. At 95F outside air, the high was 240ish at idle, going to 280 at 2k rpm or so, and the low was around 50 at idle and 30ish at 2k rpm. Does any of this give any clues to way it isn't cooling? For R134a the high pressure sounds a tad low. But you need to check the monovalve for leaking. The easiest way is to switch to EC and see if it starts heating. (The heater _will_ win if it's fighting the AC.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Good idea - I'll try that! The easiest way is to switch to EC and see if it starts heating. (The heater _will_ win if it's fighting the AC.) -- Jim -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
key word, shouldnt OK Don wrote: It shouldn't be - it's almost new. On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn? On 8/21/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: key word, shouldnt OK Don wrote: It shouldn't be - it's almost new. On 8/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn? Usually. There can also be problems with the sealing surfaces inside the monovalve body, so you want to examine everything carefully. If the system's not heating above ambient (and make sure you let the heat soak dissipate before checking the vent temps) then you don't have a leaking monovalve. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve insert, regardless of the ACC setting. The AC occasionally works but only for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode. My theory is it's the monovalve itself... 1983 300TD On 8/21/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Will a visual inspection show that the monovalve diaphragm is torn? Usually. There can also be problems with the sealing surfaces inside the monovalve body, so you want to examine everything carefully. If the system's not heating above ambient (and make sure you let the heat soak dissipate before checking the vent temps) then you don't have a leaking monovalve. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve insert, regardless of the ACC setting. The AC occasionally works but only for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode. My theory is it's the monovalve itself... So many things it could be. First of all see if the monovalve is getting power when heat's supposed to be off. You may also wire its coil directly to 12V to see if it shuts off water flow then. Ought to measure its coil resistance to be sure it's not open. Monovalve bodies fail. ACC pushbutton units fail. Fuses fail. Etc. In a pinch you can cork off the hose 'til you can get it fixed. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
What cork? What hose? Sounds like dangerous work for an amateur... On 8/21/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have incredibly hot air blowing at all times despite a new monovalve insert, regardless of the ACC setting. The AC occasionally works but only for a short period of time before reverting to max heat mode. My theory is it's the monovalve itself... So many things it could be. First of all see if the monovalve is getting power when heat's supposed to be off. You may also wire its coil directly to 12V to see if it shuts off water flow then. Ought to measure its coil resistance to be sure it's not open. Monovalve bodies fail. ACC pushbutton units fail. Fuses fail. Etc. In a pinch you can cork off the hose 'til you can get it fixed. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
What cork? What hose? Sounds like dangerous work for an amateur... The hose (either) to the monovalve, whatever you can reach easily. In the Albatross I found a 3/8 socket extension wedged into a coolant hose to block it off. Whatever works, in other words. Some have also used vise grips to (gently!) pinch shut a rubber hose in the middle. I can't say I really like the sound of that, especially if it's going to be for some time. You'd probably better plan on new hose there if you did this. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
Have you felt the hoses going to the monovalve? The monovalve plunger in my '83 300D was corroded and very sticky. It could have been powered and still not operate. I also seem to remember that a diaphragm in the monovalve can go bad. Gerry - Original Message - From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] The air had been getting warmer over the last several months - just like the outside air. I've been letting our son drive it most of the summer, but I drove it yesterday (~100F), and it was miserably hot in the car - the air never cooled below 90Fcoming out of the center vents. I have an indicator light wired in that tells me that the mono valve is powered - therefore is closed. The car was converted to R134a by the PO. So, I figured that I have a freon leak - so hooked up the gauges and checked the pressures. At 95F outside air, the high was 240ish at idle, going to 280 at 2k rpm or so, and the low was around 50 at idle and 30ish at 2k rpm. Does any of this give any clues to way it isn't cooling? Clogged expansion valve? Also - the coolant temp stays at 85C, even at 110F outside, ACC on, and city driving. The aux fan does turn on, so I figure the ACC is triggering it. TIA, OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
I didn't feel them - but I did replace the mono valve diaphragm this spring - it's less than 5 months old. On 8/20/06, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have you felt the hoses going to the monovalve? The monovalve plunger in my '83 300D was corroded and very sticky. It could have been powered and still not operate. I also seem to remember that a diaphragm in the monovalve can go bad. Gerry -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 300SDL ACC - not cold
pressures seem OK to me. You need to pull the monovalve and check to see if the diaphram is torn. OK Don wrote: The air had been getting warmer over the last several months - just like the outside air. I've been letting our son drive it most of the summer, but I drove it yesterday (~100F), and it was miserably hot in the car - the air never cooled below 90Fcoming out of the center vents. I have an indicator light wired in that tells me that the mono valve is powered - therefore is closed. The car was converted to R134a by the PO. So, I figured that I have a freon leak - so hooked up the gauges and checked the pressures. At 95F outside air, the high was 240ish at idle, going to 280 at 2k rpm or so, and the low was around 50 at idle and 30ish at 2k rpm. Does any of this give any clues to way it isn't cooling? Clogged expansion valve? Also - the coolant temp stays at 85C, even at 110F outside, ACC on, and city driving. The aux fan does turn on, so I figure the ACC is triggering it. TIA, OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
