[OGD] Invasive Non natives
It matters little whether the introduced species is flora or fauna as the cost to Australia from these invasive non-native species is $3.3B per year and those figures are from 1997. This of course is only a monetary cost, the real cost is loss of native flora and fauna. Currently in New South Wales a proposalis under consideration for the introduction of Bombus terrestris (European Bumble Bee), to aid pollination rates in the Greenhouse industry and in particular, Tomato production. This pest was illegally released in Tasmania in the late 1980's and despite claims it would not spread, has colonised all World Heritage areas and most National Parks. It has spread at a rate of 25km per year and is found in low (600mm pa) and high (3200mm pa) rainfall areas and altitudes from sea level to 1260 mts. It was also introduced into New Zealand in 1885 to aid pollination of red clover but as in all other countries it has proved impossible to control. Do we need any more evidence? Alan W Stephenson National Conservation Officer Australasian Native Orchid Society Conservation Director Australian Orchid Council ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Phal. lindenii
I grow Phal. lindenii in pots two different ways, after twenty years of growing this species. In one, I use very coarse fir bark in plastic pots, in the other I use very loose New Zealand Sphagnum in terra cotta pots. I allow the moss to go nearly dry between waterings, but not as dry as typical Phals. I water the bark plants copiously, (almost daily.) Both of these techniques are based on the idea that lindenii likes cooler, moister conditions and lots of air to the roots. My greenhouse gets a bit on the warm and dry side for lindenii this time of year, so I don't think they would like to be mounted in my conditions. Both of these techniques are designed to mitigate the heat and dryness which seem to really stress the lindenii. I keep them in a cool spot in my warm/intermediate greenhouse, they get about 58F night time lows most of the year. They get lots of air movement. They really do not like it when consecutive days go above about 85F, and start to look heat-stressed. I put unhappy plants or recently-imported lindenii plants with a small ball of NZS around the roots into an over-size terra cotta pot and water almost every day. Root ball might be 2.5cm in an 8cm pot. Only the tips of the leaves stick out above the pot. They do not rot because they get lots of air movement. The wet pot is like a tiny evaporative cooler, and keeps the immediate vicinity of the lindenii plants cooler. They really seem to appreciate this. I also grow them fairly bright for Phalaenopsis. My lindenii plants are strong enough to set capsules readily, and bear multiple spikes in consecutive years. Hope another perspective helps. rob't Robert Bedard http://www.robert-bedard.com/orchids/ ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Virus
I have been monitoring the thread on Virus but have not had time to contribute. In 1986, I bought the remains of the Shaffer Phalaenopsis stud bench. At that time people were becoming increasingly aware of virus in older collections. I wanted to test all of the breeding stock so I would not be vectoring virus when I was making crosses. At that time only anti-sera available were for CyMV and OSRV. Out of about 140 tests, I got a little over 50 positives for CyMV, and about 25 for OSRV. I cannot speak to the issue of false positives, as I had no way to verify the results of the serological tests. What I needed to do was figure out a way to use these plants for breeding, without further spreading the virus. Some people were advocating yearly testing, but for a large number of plants, this was prohibitively expensive, and would not guarantee that you do not transmit virus. The plan I came up with was essentially this: - Assume all plants have virus, - put pollen ONLY on backup copies of plants, (yes, I made LOTS of stem propagations), - dry sow all seed unless cross is such low fertility that green-capping was the only way to get seed, - control potential insect vectors, - of course, use sterile tools when repotting or removing old flower spikes, etc. This plan got me out from under continual testing. It ensured that I would not be transmitting any additional virus to my original stock plants. Twenty years later, I am still using the same plan. I have a large number of heirloom Phalaenopsis in my collection, many of which were virused when I checked them twenty years ago. I would like to comment on one thing about a false sense of security. There are a huge number of virii that could potentially infect orchids, most of which have no anti-sera available for testing. So, an anti-serum test showing no sign of CyMV or ORSV doesn't mean that your plants is not infected with BYMV or something else. It is much safer to assume that all plants are virused with something as yet unknown. This is not to say that there is no benefit to testing, but that a plant that tests clean for CyMV and ORSV may still be infected with something else. Just my two cents based on my experience. rob't Robert Bedard http://www.robert-bedard.com/orchids/ ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Peruvian Orchid Species
Hello to all The Peruvian Orchid Club is trying to define the current list of Peruvian Orchid species. At the time, and working with IPNI, MoBot´s and Kew´s database plus our own experience here in Peru our current list (eliminating all synonyms), shows around 3200 species in 280 genera. Peru is home of the famous Phragmipedium kovachii, Phragmipedium bessae and other important Orchid species. Every year we find new Orchid species on a race to save them before their habitats are destroyed. As you know illegal trading is allowing for a lot of these plants to be illegally extracted out of their habitat and even out of our country! On an effort to generate awareness of Peruvian Orchids we published a website on Peruvian Orchids. Pictures are very important in this task and we are publishing Peruvian Orchid Pictures on a regular basis on our website ( http://www.peruorchids.com/). We would like to acknowledge the special help we are receiving from Eric Hunt ( http://www.orchidphotos.org/) who has been helping us with hundreds of pictures we still have yet to publish, Hans Vissers from Holland who has also provided several hundred pictures and Mr. Carlos Hajek for his amazing collection of slides. Sorry but for lack of time we can't translate the accompanying data (habitat, growth habit, etc.) for those orchids but pictures talk for themselves right? We promise we will update the English version of our website this year. We have also created a new section aimed for people around the globe to help us ID several pictures we have gathered. You can browse them at: http://www.peruorchids.com/id/english/index.htm For those willing to help somehow please send comments and/or pictures to [EMAIL PROTECTED]. Your pictures of Peruvian Orchid species will be published with the proper copyright notice and not shared with anyone. Ours is a non profit association of around 30 Orchid fans trying to do our best to study and protect Peruvian Orchid species. Any help will be appreciated! Best regards Pablo BermudezWebmaster www.peruorchids.com-- Pablo Bermudez ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] some feedback on ELISA virus testing
Hello all --- this is our experience with ELISA for detecting viruses in Phalaenopsis mother plants used for cloning stock -- 1) ELISA is not a very reliable test, giving negative results when the virus titer is low and below detection. 2) ORSV and CyMV are very virulent in Phalaenopsis and the slightest mistake may infect what were once clean mother plants. ELISA is an antibody reaction, where antibodies that are color coded bind to the virus particles on the sample, thus more intense color means more virus particles and that is a positive result for that particular virus. When the virus titer is low, the result may be a color reaction that is so light that it might be wrongly interpreted as a negative result. PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) is a DNA test, where the virus RNA is identified and artificially multiplied thousands of times. The sample is then run on an electrophoresis gel and we look for the bands that identify that particular RNA. In essence, even if one viral particle is present we can multiply it thousands of times to make it more detectable by the test. PCR is expensive, a lot more expensive than ELISA, therefore the testing of the stock has to be done gradually. Now, how does that affect the plants that we currently have in the lab? Initially not by much, because we have just finished developing the protocols for such PCR test. But for the future (2-3 years) we will have a lot more security in saying that the plants will be virtually free of CyMV and ORSV infections. But the task is a big one, since all of the mother stock has to be re-tested using PCR and the ultimate goal is to only introduce stock that has been PCR tested. The above information came from one of the owners of our primary cloning lab. The task is very complicated because they had been using the unreliable ELISA tests and have been cloning and randomly retesting the clones using ELISA - there are hundreds of different Phalaenopsis mother plants being cloned at present from several different nurseries, all having different standards of cleanliness. Terry A. Glancy Pine Ridge Orchids, Inc. 21100 SW 300 Street Homestead, FL 33030-7812 ph (305) 247-4839 (305) 247-3086 fx (305) 247-8853 Website = http://www.PineRidgeOrchids.com Email = [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc Email = [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Kovachii
There have been hybrids made by legal sources in Peru..They do every bit as badly from flask as the species. Kovachii plants (seedlings) are impossible to grow as far as I or anyone growing them knows..3000 ft is still not good for growing Kovachii..That is a fact..buyer beware..this is not a species that will be common in cultivation..and, sorry to say, so far the hybrid with boissierianum is faring no better from flasks sent here by Silva...(not to me, by the way) So, for the moment, do not waste your money...Bill Bergstrom ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Pk seedlings are easy to grow.
Bill,
Concerning your post "Kovachii" I take it you
mean Phragmipedium kovachii, (note small letter k) commonly referred to as Pk on
public forums.
You speak of Pkseedlings "being impossible to
grow." I totally disagree One very experienced Phrag
grower/exhibitor/vendor tells me that in his experience, Pk seedlingsare
easier to grow than Phrag besseae seedlings.
I base my disagreement with your post onmy
personal experience and the experience of others as posted for some time now
onpublic forums . Yes there are some who have problems, but then there are
some who have problems with Phal. seedlings as well.
I feel sorrythat you had a bad personal
experience, which may be due to one or more of many factors which you fail to
disclose. The biggest part of your problem may be "too high temperatures for in
flask seedlings" plus "from whom and when," you purchased the Pk flask and not
having been told a few basic rules to follow. You can truly not generalize from
that experience
You certainly can not speak for "anyone growing
them," which I take to mean"everyone growing them."
You can not speak for me, or the many Pk
seedlingowners who are growing them successfully in many countries
all over the world; some of whom I know personally.
I think you are doing the vendors and indeed the
average Phrag growers a disservice with your post.
Pk seedlings, legally propagated in the
laboratories of CJM (Centro de Jardineria Manrique)are easy to
grow!
When in flask, you have to keep the temperatures in
mid to high sixties, for growing them warmer appears to produce toxins perhaps
(no proof)causing the leaves toturn yellow. CJM Pkflasks, kept
at 65 to 70 F, do not have this yellowing problem.
Pk seedlings can be compotted at a very early stage
and do well, even at higher temperatures thanmy own recommended
Intermediate temps {The plants naturally grow at 1900 metersabove sea
level (6235 feet)}.
In my compots, Pk seedlings stay a healthy
green at temperatures around 65F and grow well. I also have some compots
at 80F, occasionally reaching 90 and 95F. These stay a healthy green but
grow slower than those at the lower temps.
My compotted Pk seedlings range in size from
1/2 to3 inches. Even the 1/4 inch size Pk seedlings are
surviving and growing in NZ sphagnum moss. You must follow a few basic culture
rules for this species, but isn't that true formany orchid
species?
Bill, contrary to what you predict will happen,
IvisionPk species and hybrids on the benches of every Phrag
loving grower in the world, except those who consider big flowersugly, as
one of my friends does.
When you say Silva, you probably mean well known
Peruvian orchid collector Manuel Arias Silva, who is not connected with CJM at
all.
To anyone contemplating purchasing legalPk
seedlings, I guarantee that the CJM Pk seedlingsare true Pk and easy
to grow when you follow a fewbasic steps.
Peter
___
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Re: [OGD] phal lindenii
Julia wrote: Hi everyone, I have owned a Phal lindeni for several years and it has never had more than 2 or 3 leaves on it, although it blooms every year. I grow it mounted on tree fern with a sphagnum pad, and as it has been on that tree fern since I bought it the roots are fairly well integrated in the fibers. I keep it in about intermediate temps in my basement under fluorescent light. It annoys me that this plant always looks like it wants to jettison its leaves. Can anyone offer some advice on getting better results with this plant? Do you grow yours in pot/basket, cork, or TF? I sort of think my problem might be the tree fern as I've had problems with other species on tree fern in the past, but I know plenty of people use it with success. Thanks, Julia Hello Julia, A long time ago I had a lindenii that had been grown in a large pot of fir bark. It was pretty happy until I let someone else care for it while they watched some seed pods on it ripen; it sat in some water during the Winter and it rotted. I think I had one other I tried to grow in a pot, and at some point during a Winter it got too wet and also rotted. Now, I grow only on pieces of cork bark, with loose sphagnum around the roots. They are hanging from shelves in my kitchen window where they never get bright light unless during Winter the angle of the sun gets low enough to shine in late in the day. During the Summer a fan moves air out a bedroom window and vacuum pulls it in the kitchen window. In Winter my kitchen is only 65F at warmest, and much cooler by that window. I try to water every other day, but sometimes it is 3-4 days between full waterings with a spray attachment from my kitchen sink. Humidity is never very high, but the plants usually look pretty good. This year all my adult plants coordinated their flowering and are now all in flower, this after a few years of very scattered flowering all year 'round. Problem will be that one of them always flowered around the time of our Fall Show, but this year will be long out of flower. I have no idea how I pulled this off (hah, I had nothing to do with it I'm sure), and am wondering if some of them will in turn flower in less than a year and be out of phase with the rest. In the past, I've had problems with things on tree fern except for a trichopilia maculata that was pretty hardy to start with. Of my phals, many of the small ones have died while being grown (poorly) on tree fern. Fertilizer I think often collects too much and they burn, so remaining phals on tree fern get alot of plain water and weak fertilizer. I've been told that these mouns can get acidic over time and using calcium nitrate or a basic fertilizer is necessary to keep the substrate pH from getting too low, though have no idea if this works or not. Maybe the plants are too close to the light; if they are getting strong light maybe they feel they don't need more leaves? Mine are pretty dark but get new leaves right along and though dark don't have a problem flowering. They do flower more when I remember to fertilize more when I see flower spikes starting. hope this helps, charles ps Someone in tennessee told me that the way they get lindenii to grow in their greenhouse is to put the plant into a pot that is just big enough to hold the roots folded into it, and no potting mix. they just water when the roots look dryish -- charles ufford oriskany, ny usa ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Epipactis helleborine
E. helleborine is definitely wide spread, and while it may be technically invasive, I cannot see how it would pose much of a problem here in the Northeast. I see it everywhere in Cutchogue , LI, and I have even seen it growing within 2 blocks of my house here in Queens. However, there is a big difference between the behavior I have seen with helleborine and the behavior of most invasive species: it does not crowd out other species. Wherever it is found, it is growing with other species of plants, and is evenly distributed among them. Of greater importance: It never seems to grow in the same exact location for more than 2 seasons. It appears in one place...the next year it will be 10 feet further, but not a trace of it remains in the previous location. In that sense, I can't see it as being truly invasive. But please understand: this is based only on my observations in Eastern Long Island and NYC. It may very well behave differently in other regions...and I can see how it may create serious problems in the Pacific northwest, where it could conceivably interbreed with gigantea or palustris.Take care, Eric Muehlbauer in wet and coold Queens NY...where despite 2 heat waves, the paphs have never done better..loads in bud ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
Re: [OGD] Kovachii
Bill, Phrag kovachii is not that hard to grow. I have seen hundreds thriving and they are all larger than 3 leafspans. One has almost 12 wingspread. Their grower isn't doing anything different than most other phrags. So, please don't label Pk unfairly as difficult to grow. And Peter, Come on... Your unfounded insinuations are so obvious. We all know you sell CJM product. You have a vested interest in marketing CJM product. Back when you and I corresponded, I almost believed the stuff you were telling me. But I went to someone who knows what went on in Peru and got the true story. It irritates me no end that you try to slime your competition like you do. I know I am now a target for your flames, but I don't care. Make sure you have your facts STRAIGHT before you make your unfounded innuendos. When you say Silva, you probably mean well known Peruvian orchid collector Manuel Arias Silva, who is not connected with CJM at all. To anyone contemplating purchasing legal Pk seedlings, I guarantee that the CJM Pk seedlings are true Pk and easy to grow when you follow a few basic steps. Peter Barbara ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
