Re: HC110 preservation
They still do. The recommended method of preserving HC110 is to work from the most concentrated syrup, split original bottle, (16oz for example), into smaller bottles, old fashioned 2 to 4 oz. brown glass medicine bottles, are what I used to use, (wish I could find mine, I have a 16oz bottle of vintage HC110 that needs to be split). Fill the smaller bottles up to very top to minimize contact Oxygen and cap them tightly. When using up one of the bottles you can drive off most of the Oxygen by replacing it with a more inert gas, nitrogen would probably be best, but since that's usually unavailable to me, I spray some derivative of Freon, sold as DustOff, Dust Remover, or some such, into the top of the small bottle before capping it. The new stuff isn't quite as non-reactive as Freon used to be but it still beats free oxygen. On 1/10/2016 9:39 PM, Darren Addy wrote: Your stock HC-110 or your diluted developer? The main enemy of chemistry is air. They used to sell Air Evac bottles that looked like round bellows that you could use to express any excess air before screwing on the bottle lid, with the chemistry inside at the edge of overflowing. Other than that, I'm not sure what you can do. On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 8:24 PM, Collin B wrote: I don't process as much b&w as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term? -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- I don't want to achieve immortality through my work; I want to achieve immortality through not dying. -- Woody Allen -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: HC110 preservation
Seconding what others have said... the undiluted concentrate will last for a long time. I had some HC110 that was pushing 7 years when I finally used it up. I would migrate it to smaller bottles as it would fit, but it spent a good bit of time with some air in the bottles. The concentrate got darker and some semi solid sludge formed at the bottom, but it still worked fine.I have never attempted to store the diluted mixture - just mix it for one shot use using a syringe as Bill described. I get larger syringes for dispensing cough syrup etc to infants at the local drugstore. Last summer I finished off the last bottle of Agfa Rodinal that I bought in 2005 after Agfa discontinued manufacture of it. Same experience as with the HC110 - much darker (almost black) and with some sludge in the bottom of the bottle, but worked fine. That was approaching 10 years old. FWIW - I have had much worse luck with old bags of powder developer - the foil lined bags that Kodak used in the past - than with liquid concentrates. Powders in cans and the newer plastic bags have been fine though. Good luck Mark On 1/10/2016 9:24 PM, Collin B wrote: I don't process as much b&w as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: HC110 preservation
On 1/10/2016 8:24 PM, Collin B wrote: I don't process as much b&w as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term? Don't dilute the concentrate. It will keep for decades. I mixed HC110 to order when I was processing film commercially. I used a syringe to extract and measure enough concentrate to mix a tank strength batch. I was using a Jobo and so making small batches of fairly concentrated developer, generally 500ml or less of either dilution A or B, so it can be done, just measure carefully.. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: HC110 preservation
I used to separate the developer into several small glass bottles as soon as I opened the big bottle it came in if liquid or just after it getting mixed... filling those right to the tippy top does the job and glass is inert. I was using dark brown bottles that had held medicine. ann On 1/10/2016 9:39 PM, Darren Addy wrote: Your stock HC-110 or your diluted developer? The main enemy of chemistry is air. They used to sell Air Evac bottles that looked like round bellows that you could use to express any excess air before screwing on the bottle lid, with the chemistry inside at the edge of overflowing. Other than that, I'm not sure what you can do. On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 8:24 PM, Collin B wrote: I don't process as much b&w as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term? -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: HC110 preservation
Your stock HC-110 or your diluted developer? The main enemy of chemistry is air. They used to sell Air Evac bottles that looked like round bellows that you could use to express any excess air before screwing on the bottle lid, with the chemistry inside at the edge of overflowing. Other than that, I'm not sure what you can do. On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 8:24 PM, Collin B wrote: > I don't process as much b&w as I would like. My HC110 turns red or pink and > becomes unusable. What is the best way to keep it long term? > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- Life is too short to put up with bad bokeh. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: HC110
Kodak recommends against 1:3 these days. I would have liked them to come to this conclusion before... I think you're agitating too hard. That was my preliminary conclusion after reading about the kind of results I had had. So I calmed down. But I was not sure if my new good results were because of a change in developr or technic. So it was both things. Thanks for answering my questions, Tom. Andre
RE: HC110
> -Original Message- > From: Andre Langevin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >XTOL isn't really the best push developer... Microphen or > DD-X work better. > > If I remember well I was using XTOL with a 1:2 or 1:3 > dilution. I guess I was looking for trouble... Kodak recommends against 1:3 these days. > > Microphen is the next one I was to try. A friend of mine > prepares Microphen concentrates at home. I'll try it for the > 3200 films exposed at 800-1000 and get some DD-X for the > pushed ones. Thanks for the tip, Tom. DD-X is liquid Microphen, more or less. > > >What do you mean by mitigated? > > No punch, not dense enough, especially in the center (the top > and bottom of film was a bit denser). I think you're agitating too hard. tv
RE: HC110
XTOL isn't really the best push developer... Microphen or DD-X work better. If I remember well I was using XTOL with a 1:2 or 1:3 dilution. I guess I was looking for trouble... Microphen is the next one I was to try. A friend of mine prepares Microphen concentrates at home. I'll try it for the 3200 films exposed at 800-1000 and get some DD-X for the pushed ones. Thanks for the tip, Tom. What do you mean by mitigated? No punch, not dense enough, especially in the center (the top and bottom of film was a bit denser). Andre
RE: HC110
> -Original Message- > From: Andre Langevin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >You really should try XTOL. XTOL is the recommended > developer for TMAX > >film, not TMAX developer. > > > >tv > > What is the best way to agitate the film with XTOL? I've had > mitigated results with 3200 films (Kodak and Ilford) XTOL isn't really the best push developer...Microphen or DD-X work better. What do you mean by mitigated? > and I > suspect this combination might need more or less agitation > than what I gave > (5 seconds every 30 seconds in a 4-reel Patersen tank), or a > smaller tank that will permit effective upside-down movement. I always do 5/30 agitation. tv
RE: HC110
You really should try XTOL. XTOL is the recommended developer for TMAX film, not TMAX developer. tv What is the best way to agitate the film with XTOL? I've had mitigated results with 3200 films (Kodak and Ilford) and I suspect this combination might need more or less agitation than what I gave (5 seconds every 30 seconds in a 4-reel Patersen tank), or a smaller tank that will permit effective upside-down movement. Andre
Re: HC110
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:56:15 -0600 (CST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Dirty little secret: HC:110 is a really good developer. >William Robb For traditional films? I used to stock it in college because it would do film AND prints (neither all that well). We used to use it at work for T-max 400 and with that film it was VILE--poor shadow detail, poor contrast, general lack of life. I think we were using it 1:3 for film, and developing time did not seem to affect the quality of the results. Perhaps it was getting old on the shelf, but we eventually switched over entirely to t-max RS developer and replenisher despite the cost because the results with T-max films were so superior. I MIGHT believe that with more traditional films it works better. I'm hoping to shoot some test rolls tonight and try Rodinal compared to ID-11plus. If Rodinal doesn't work for me, I'll keep looking. Anybody used the Edwal FG7 stuff? It appears to be a bit of a push developer, which makes me nervous, but it also looks like it is designed to more or less the specs I had in mind (cheap, keeps, works OK) DJE Don't blame the HC110 when the real culprit is TMY/TMX. I really dislike those films. Collin
