[Phono-L] R-20 Victrola and some parts needed
Dear Phonolisters: I recently acquired a Victrola R-20 which resembles a Victrola Consolette model in appearance but which has only an RCA Radio model 20 under its top lid. Like the Consolette has two door in the front which when open show a cloth horn cover and below that a compartment for battery storage. This cover is missing from my machine. I would like to get in touch with someone who has this same unit so I can get a picture of what the compartment cover looks like. Presumable I will need a small knob and two round, metal air vents. Also missing from my R-20 is the horn driver. Unlike earlier round, horn driver used in Victor phono/radio combination machines which were round and made of potmetal, this one measures 4-3/8” x 3-1/16”, has a black-painted metal frame and an unpainted rear metal cover, and an internal coil and horseshoe magnet. The bottom end is square to the sides and the top end is radiused like the top of a cathedral radio. The driver is held on to the end of the horn speaker by a bayonet flange. Actually, the flange on the driver is exactly like that of an Orthophonic reproducer and driver even uses an Orthophonic diaphragm. If you have any of the parts available for sale, or if you know where I can find them elsewhere, please contact me. I have pictures of the machine and parts I need upon request. Thanks and best regards, Green Mountain Bill rochr...@gmail.com ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] R-20 Victrola and some parts needed
Bill, It took many years to find an R20 for the collection but you can contact me off list for any pictures you may need. Mine is complete and original, it has not been modified for a battery eliminator. The R20 was made in very large numbers (6382 according to Bob) and you would think they would be plentiful however being such a cheap one I surmise that most were tossed out. Mark Sent from my iPad On Aug 14, 2011, at 4:16 PM, William Zucca rochr...@gmail.com wrote: Dear Phonolisters: I recently acquired a Victrola R-20 which resembles a Victrola Consolette model in appearance but which has only an RCA Radio model 20 under its top lid. Like the Consolette has two door in the front which when open show a cloth horn cover and below that a compartment for battery storage. This cover is missing from my machine. I would like to get in touch with someone who has this same unit so I can get a picture of what the compartment cover looks like. Presumable I will need a small knob and two round, metal air vents. Also missing from my R-20 is the horn driver. Unlike earlier round, horn driver used in Victor phono/radio combination machines which were round and made of potmetal, this one measures 4-3/8” x 3-1/16”, has a black-painted metal frame and an unpainted rear metal cover, and an internal coil and horseshoe magnet. The bottom end is square to the sides and the top end is radiused like the top of a cathedral radio. The driver is held on to the end of the horn speaker by a bayonet flange. Actually, the flange on the driver is exactly like that of an Orthophonic reproducer and driver even uses an Orthophonic diaphragm. If you have any of the parts available for sale, or if you know where I can find them elsewhere, please contact me. I have pictures of the machine and parts I need upon request. Thanks and best regards, Green Mountain Bill rochr...@gmail.com ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
[Phono-L] Cracked Record Repair/Preservation
I recently decided to try a repair/restoration on a cracked early Zonophone record. The crack was a hairline from the edge to the label, with a slight gap near the edge. Normally I throw these away, since they usually get worse and break anyway. I decided to try a method that I thought might work using Weldbond white glue. Weldbond is a very versatile glue that works well on a number of types of materials and is easy to use since it cleans up with water and is key to this process. I placed a line of glue along the entire crack, then worked it in with my finger while gently flexing the crack to make sure the glue penetrated into the crack. I did both sides of the crack the same way. Then using a damp - not wet - paper towel and rubbing in the direction of the grooves, I wiped out any excess and made sure the grooves were not filled in. After 24 hours, the record sounds as solid as new when tapped and plays well. You can still see the hairline crack, but it filled in solid and is now stabilized and plays well considering. I have done this on several other records that I could not stand to throw away and they turned out well. Try it on one of your damaged records for posterity's sake - what do you have to lose? Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Cracked Record Repair/Preservation
Hi Curt I do something similar. I use ACC(crazy glue) and run a drop on the edge of the crack. I carefully move the cracked part up and until the glue flows into the whole length of the crack using a capillary action. Then I carefully use the pointy end of a paper towel to remove the excess of the glue. I have used this method for over 20 years since I started collecting. Harvey Kravitz From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 6:54 PM Subject: [Phono-L] Cracked Record Repair/Preservation I recently decided to try a repair/restoration on a cracked early Zonophone record. The crack was a hairline from the edge to the label, with a slight gap near the edge. Normally I throw these away, since they usually get worse and break anyway. I decided to try a method that I thought might work using Weldbond white glue. Weldbond is a very versatile glue that works well on a number of types of materials and is easy to use since it cleans up with water and is key to this process. I placed a line of glue along the entire crack, then worked it in with my finger while gently flexing the crack to make sure the glue penetrated into the crack. I did both sides of the crack the same way. Then using a damp - not wet - paper towel and rubbing in the direction of the grooves, I wiped out any excess and made sure the grooves were not filled in. After 24 hours, the record sounds as solid as new when tapped and plays well. You can still see the hairline crack, but it filled in solid and is now stabilized and plays well considering. I have done this on several other records that I could not stand to throw away and they turned out well. Try it on one of your damaged records for posterity's sake - what do you have to lose? Curt ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
