[RBW] Re: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread Angus

Jason,

I have 32, 35 and 37mm Pasaelas on three Rivendells.

My 32s measure about 30 as R Gonet stated.  My 35s measure 35 and work
much better than the 32s off road.  I would recommend trying a 35mm
Paselas, they work well on non-paved surfaces and seem to roll well on-
road too.

Angus

On Oct 6, 12:15 pm, jason jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 I recently purchased a new 56 Sam Hillborne and selected 32mm Pasela
 Tourguards when the bike was being built.  After riding the thing
 almost daily for the past month and doing just a tiny bit of trail
 riding while out, I believe that I should've listened the folks at Riv
 and purchased the 35mm's...and actually maybe another type of tire
 altogether.   But..I do have another bike that is in need of some 32mm
 tires, so these will go to that bike...My question is this...are the
 Jack Brown BLUES (The slightly heavier duty ones) at 33.3mm robust
 enough for riding on hard packed earth and cinder for an extended
 period of time...I think they are beautiful tires, but I'm not sure if
 they have enough traction on loose gravel..dirt, etc.  Of course, I
 know nothing about the physics of tires on the road/dirt, so maybe
 they are just fine.
 Otherwise I'm looking at the regular straight up Schwalbe Marathons,
 but from what the Riv site says, they are more geared for touring on
 roads, than on trails.  Like I said, I wont be on trails too much, but
 it is coming up a bit in my rides and I've recently learned of some
 great trail rides around the city that I'd be into checking out.
 Not looking for an aggressive off road tire, just a general all around
 do everything tire that fits my sam with fenders...
 (currently have the VO 48mm flutted, but I've had a few issues with
 them already (all stuff that is my fault), so I'm thinking of
 replacing with the 45mm VO stainless steel...I know they are heavy,
 but thats OK)
 Any advice would be great
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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

2009-10-07 Thread Ron Farnsworth
Kookaburra from Riv. Best stuff ever, the lanolin keeps the wool soft and it 
doesn't smell too bad.

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:


From: David Faller dfal...@charter.net
Subject: [RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 12:35 AM



#yiv1705560116 .hmmessage P {
PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}
#yiv1705560116 {
FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Verdana;}


Seems to me you're related to someone who knows more about this than us 
knuckleheads.  Listen to your expert!
 
Dave

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Powers 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:57 PM
Subject: [RBW] Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

It's an amazing day.  I just found my old Woolrich wool knickers.  I think 
these are early to mid 80's, so well over 20 years old.  I bought them when 
they were discontinued and only used them a couple of times before my middle 
aged spread rendered them unwearable.  I tired them on today and they fit 
again.  

I would like to clean them.  They are 85% wool and 15% nylon and say dry clean 
only.  My daughter says wash them by soaking in the tub with her super special 
wool cleaner (she weaves and knits and only works with wool).  I wash all my 
riding clothes including my Wooly Warms on the delicate cycle in my front 
loading machine using Ivory Snow.  Of course all washing is in cold water.  

Any opinions on the best approach?

Wool Rules.

Larry Powers 
 
Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain





Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.




  
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[RBW] Re: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread Mike

I've ridden Ruffy Tuffys, Pasela's (32s and 35s), Schwalbe Marathons,
Jack Browns, and T-serves (35s) on my two Rivendells. At one time or
another I've ridden each tire on the dirt. The Schwalbe Marathons
(700x41) were the best for dirt and rolled pretty well on the
pavement. What I'd recommend to you would be to try 700x35 Panaracer T-
serves. I think you'll see a noticeable difference between them and
the 32's you've been riding. Like another poster mentioned, the T-
serves are similar to the Paselas but are sturdier. I have them on my
Hilsen right now and love them. I imagine at some point I'll go back
to Jack Browns. I doubt I'll go back to Paselas, too many issues with
the sidewalls. I may also try some Marathon Supremes. In fact I may
pick up those soon and put the t-serves on my commuter as it needs new
tires.

--mike

On Oct 7, 2:48 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Jason,

 I have 32, 35 and 37mm Pasaelas on three Rivendells.

 My 32s measure about 30 as R Gonet stated.  My 35s measure 35 and work
 much better than the 32s off road.  I would recommend trying a 35mm
 Paselas, they work well on non-paved surfaces and seem to roll well on-
 road too.

 Angus

 On Oct 6, 12:15 pm, jason jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:



  I recently purchased a new 56 Sam Hillborne and selected 32mm Pasela
  Tourguards when the bike was being built.  After riding the thing
  almost daily for the past month and doing just a tiny bit of trail
  riding while out, I believe that I should've listened the folks at Riv
  and purchased the 35mm's...and actually maybe another type of tire
  altogether.   But..I do have another bike that is in need of some 32mm
  tires, so these will go to that bike...My question is this...are the
  Jack Brown BLUES (The slightly heavier duty ones) at 33.3mm robust
  enough for riding on hard packed earth and cinder for an extended
  period of time...I think they are beautiful tires, but I'm not sure if
  they have enough traction on loose gravel..dirt, etc.  Of course, I
  know nothing about the physics of tires on the road/dirt, so maybe
  they are just fine.
  Otherwise I'm looking at the regular straight up Schwalbe Marathons,
  but from what the Riv site says, they are more geared for touring on
  roads, than on trails.  Like I said, I wont be on trails too much, but
  it is coming up a bit in my rides and I've recently learned of some
  great trail rides around the city that I'd be into checking out.
  Not looking for an aggressive off road tire, just a general all around
  do everything tire that fits my sam with fenders...
  (currently have the VO 48mm flutted, but I've had a few issues with
  them already (all stuff that is my fault), so I'm thinking of
  replacing with the 45mm VO stainless steel...I know they are heavy,
  but thats OK)
  Any advice would be great
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[RBW] hillborne green

2009-10-07 Thread jandrews_nyc

has anyone found a good hillborne green touch up paint?
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[RBW] Re: Yet another fender question...

2009-10-07 Thread Mike

I ended up going with Berthouds (50s). I was able to get them from a
local shop, pre-drilled, and was familiar with the installation
process from previously putting a pair on my Rambouillet. They went on
fine and look great. I do need to clean up the stays a bit where I cut
them.

One thing I noticed was that you want to make sure that you have a bit
of space between the fender and the brake so that the brake can open
up all the way. That's with Silver/Tektro brakes. After I put them on
I noticed my front brake wasn't letting me put my wheel in with the
tire inflated. It took a minute to realize what was going on. I added
a second rubber washer to the fork daruma and that seemed to fix it. I
might still add another.

With the 50s I'd say you wouldn't want to go any larger than a 700x35
tire.

Here's a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/3989554701/in/photostream/

--mike

On Oct 2, 12:13 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 But VO doesn't offer their own hammered model... yet.

 On Oct 2, 11:49 am, Z xodus48...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Actually, VO-branded and sourced versions of the Honjo style, likely will 
  cost less.
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[RBW] Re: Cycle North Carolina on a Quickbeam

2009-10-07 Thread johnb

No pushing but I did not set any land speed records on day 2
either :-)

On Oct 6, 12:37 pm, usuk2007 clive.stand...@umassmed.edu wrote:
 Yes sounds like a great trip. The QB is a great touring bike if you
 know the route and plan your gearing appropriately.
 I have an emergency 22t freewheel on the flip side of my hub for
 really steep stuff, but I still had to push on my last trip.
 Did you have to resort to that anywhere?

 On Oct 5, 11:55 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:



  Nice job.  Sounds like loads 'o fun.

  On Oct 5, 6:46 pm, johnb jbust...@gmail.com wrote:

   Just a quick update on my trip across NC that I posted a QB question
   about earlier. I rode the entire state on 32/40x16/18. The first two
   days, I rode 32x18 but on the first day on the Blue Ridge Parkway, I
   think I probably could have ridden the 40x18 since most of that day
   was straightforward minimal grade climbing. I spun out badly on the
   downhills till I figured out that coasting was the best option. Day
   Two was very steep but short climbs and definitely needed the 32x18
   combo. Middle three days, I used the 40x18 and the last two I went to
   40x16. On the whole, it worked well. I could climb with most people
   but lost out on the downhills. I completed the entire ride including
   the century in reasonable time (for me) and while not even close to
   the front of the pack, I maintained about a 14mph average.

   I used the Acorn Roll bag in the back and the Acorn Rando bag in the
   front. I really liked the Rando bag. It could easily hold two jackets/
   warmers, tube, some tools, some food, a camera and a phone with room
   to spare. It was very easy to mount and all the pockets were very easy
   to get to. I cannot comment on the Roll bag since I had no mechanical
   problems. I got a lot of positive comments on both bags.
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[RBW] Re: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread Patrick in VT

On Oct 6, 10:29 pm, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:
 So, if the only variable you're comparing is width, the difference between 30 
 and 33.3 is significant.  

significant?  really?  what is significantly different about the jack
brown and 32 pasela?  just curious.


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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

2009-10-07 Thread rswat...@me.com
Lanolin is bad, or so I'm told.
At the Taos, NM Wool festival, I
asked several weavers how they keep
moths and beetles from nibbling their fancy
woolies and they said the key was multiple,
thorough washings to remove the lanolin.
Apparently the bugs are attracted to the
lanolin rather than the wool fibers themselves.
They also like human body oils and sweat, so it's
important to keep wool clothing clean.
For this reason I wash my wool jerseys after each ride.
I've used Ecover delicate wash for years with good results,
even on stuff labeled dry-clean only

Cheers,
Ryan



On Oct 7, 2009, at 7:07, Ron Farnsworth r2far...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Kookaburra from Riv. Best stuff ever, the lanolin keeps the wool  
 soft and it doesn't smell too bad.

 --- On Wed, 10/7/09, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:

 From: David Faller dfal...@charter.net
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 12:35 AM

 Seems to me you're related to someone who knows more about this than  
 us knuckleheads.  Listen to your expert!

 Dave
 - Original Message -
 From: Larry Powers
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:57 PM
 Subject: [RBW] Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

 It's an amazing day.  I just found my old Woolrich wool knickers.  I  
 think these are early to mid 80's, so well over 20 years old.  I  
 bought them when they were discontinued and only used them a couple  
 of times before my middle aged spread rendered them unwearable.  I  
 tired them on today and they fit again.

 I would like to clean them.  They are 85% wool and 15% nylon and say  
 dry clean only.  My daughter says wash them by soaking in the tub  
 with her super special wool cleaner (she weaves and knits and only  
 works with wool).  I wash all my riding clothes including my Wooly  
 Warms on the delicate cycle in my front loading machine using Ivory  
 Snow.  Of course all washing is in cold water.

 Any opinions on the best approach?

 Wool Rules.

 Larry Powers

 Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain



 Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.

 

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[RBW] Re: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

If gravel riding is a priority, or even if it isn't, I would suggest
the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme in 700x40. The Jack Brown blues are very
tough, but may not be much different than  the 32 mm paselas.

On Oct 6, 12:15 pm, jason jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 I recently purchased a new 56 Sam Hillborne and selected 32mm Pasela
 Tourguards when the bike was being built.  After riding the thing
 almost daily for the past month and doing just a tiny bit of trail
 riding while out, I believe that I should've listened the folks at Riv
 and purchased the 35mm's...and actually maybe another type of tire
 altogether.   But..I do have another bike that is in need of some 32mm
 tires, so these will go to that bike...My question is this...are the
 Jack Brown BLUES (The slightly heavier duty ones) at 33.3mm robust
 enough for riding on hard packed earth and cinder for an extended
 period of time...I think they are beautiful tires, but I'm not sure if
 they have enough traction on loose gravel..dirt, etc.  Of course, I
 know nothing about the physics of tires on the road/dirt, so maybe
 they are just fine.
 Otherwise I'm looking at the regular straight up Schwalbe Marathons,
 but from what the Riv site says, they are more geared for touring on
 roads, than on trails.  Like I said, I wont be on trails too much, but
 it is coming up a bit in my rides and I've recently learned of some
 great trail rides around the city that I'd be into checking out.
 Not looking for an aggressive off road tire, just a general all around
 do everything tire that fits my sam with fenders...
 (currently have the VO 48mm flutted, but I've had a few issues with
 them already (all stuff that is my fault), so I'm thinking of
 replacing with the 45mm VO stainless steel...I know they are heavy,
 but thats OK)
 Any advice would be great
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[RBW] Re: Yet another fender question...

2009-10-07 Thread cj.spinner

Lovely lines, Mike.

Hmm...thinking I might want to do something similar on mine.

On Oct 7, 8:57 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I ended up going with Berthouds (50s). I was able to get them from a
 local shop, pre-drilled, and was familiar with the installation
 process from previously putting a pair on my Rambouillet. They went on
 fine and look great. I do need to clean up the stays a bit where I cut
 them.

 One thing I noticed was that you want to make sure that you have a bit
 of space between the fender and the brake so that the brake can open
 up all the way. That's with Silver/Tektro brakes. After I put them on
 I noticed my front brake wasn't letting me put my wheel in with the
 tire inflated. It took a minute to realize what was going on. I added
 a second rubber washer to the fork daruma and that seemed to fix it. I
 might still add another.

 With the 50s I'd say you wouldn't want to go any larger than a 700x35
 tire.

 Here's a 
 picture:http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/3989554701/in/photostream/

 --mike

 On Oct 2, 12:13 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  But VO doesn't offer their own hammered model... yet.

  On Oct 2, 11:49 am, Z xodus48...@yahoo.com wrote:

   Actually, VO-branded and sourced versions of the Honjo style, likely will 
   cost less.
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[RBW] Re: Yet another fender question...

2009-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

700x35 is not the upper limit for 700x50 fenders, but it depends on
the bike. I have used the 700x50 Berthouds with 700x50 Big Apples on
my Atlantis. Of course, there was some custom fitting involved...

On Oct 7, 8:57 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I ended up going with Berthouds (50s). I was able to get them from a
 local shop, pre-drilled, and was familiar with the installation
 process from previously putting a pair on my Rambouillet. They went on
 fine and look great. I do need to clean up the stays a bit where I cut
 them.

 One thing I noticed was that you want to make sure that you have a bit
 of space between the fender and the brake so that the brake can open
 up all the way. That's with Silver/Tektro brakes. After I put them on
 I noticed my front brake wasn't letting me put my wheel in with the
 tire inflated. It took a minute to realize what was going on. I added
 a second rubber washer to the fork daruma and that seemed to fix it. I
 might still add another.

 With the 50s I'd say you wouldn't want to go any larger than a 700x35
 tire.

 Here's a 
 picture:http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/3989554701/in/photostream/

 --mike

 On Oct 2, 12:13 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

  But VO doesn't offer their own hammered model... yet.

  On Oct 2, 11:49 am, Z xodus48...@yahoo.com wrote:

   Actually, VO-branded and sourced versions of the Honjo style, likely will 
   cost less.
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[RBW] Re: Yet another fender question...

2009-10-07 Thread gunnara

Thats what i did 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3990816112/sizes/l/in/photostream/
i also put a backwheel fender on the front wheel, technically it's
fine altough i like the hammered fenders better.


Gunnar

On Oct 2, 3:50 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So I'm thinking of putting metal fenders on my Hilsen. I have
 Berthouds on my Rambouillet and really like them. With my Hilsen I'm
 thinking of putting on some hammered Honjos (700x45). I won't be
 attaching the front fender to a rack and I'm wondering if it will
 vibrate a lot. Isn't this a problem with Honjos sometimes? It isn't an
 issue with my Berthouds but I think that's because they are steel as
 opposed to aluminum.

 I currently have SKS fenders with leather flaps on my Hilsen but they
 just aren't long enough in the front. I should mention that a coworker
 picked up an extra rear SKS fender, trimmed it and mounted on the
 front. It seems to be working well for him.

 I live in Portland and fenders are essential. This isn't entirely
 about bike fashion.

 --mike
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[RBW] news post about the Yen

2009-10-07 Thread Seth Vidal

I was reading the new post about the Yen at:
http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/159

and it made me ask: Is there any way that there are any american or
canadian or mexican companies(NAFTA) could manufacture some of these
components to the same level of quality?

I know there are a largish number of independent frame builders out
there. Can they produce enough consistency to bring the prices of the
frames down to sub-2K ranges?

What about stems? Is there no one besides nitto who can do it for what
the nitto's cost?

I'm not arguing against the nittos, I'm just asking if there is really
no one who can do that kind of manufacturing.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: news post about the Yen

2009-10-07 Thread newenglandbike

Regarding Nitto, I think it would be prohibitively costly for an
American company to acquire the tooling necessary for forging stems,
etc...   Well, maybe prohibitive is not the right word-- what I mean
is unattractive from a business standpoint.

On the other hand, there ARE great companies right here in the U.S.
who machine fine aluminum products, for example Super Rat Machine
works:

http://www.superratmachine.com/

Super Rat Machine Works was started by Phil Wasson, an insanely
talented BMX rider once associated with the (also Made-in-USA) frame
company called FBM.  SRM makes very good parts.




On Oct 7, 2:07 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I was reading the new post about the Yen 
 at:http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/159

 and it made me ask: Is there any way that there are any american or
 canadian or mexican companies(NAFTA) could manufacture some of these
 components to the same level of quality?

 I know there are a largish number of independent frame builders out
 there. Can they produce enough consistency to bring the prices of the
 frames down to sub-2K ranges?

 What about stems? Is there no one besides nitto who can do it for what
 the nitto's cost?

 I'm not arguing against the nittos, I'm just asking if there is really
 no one who can do that kind of manufacturing.

 -sv
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[RBW] Sale of Viva bag support is pending. [Re: FS: Viva bag support (from Velo Orange)]

2009-10-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE


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[RBW] 650B FS, also a Nitto Periscopa stem

2009-10-07 Thread Anne

Okay, so it's not lugged but it is a 650B frame.
It's also a mtn bike ... so a bit more off track
For sale is an unridden Carver 650B Killer Bee
Started to build this up but the top tube is too long for me. So
here's your chance to snag a 650B-specific set up at a great price.
Includes: Custom painted frame, seatpost clamp, custom painted Fox RLC
fork and a Velocity Blunt / XT wheelset.

$750 plus actual shipping.
Plus at the $750 I'll include the Pacenti tires at no extra $.

ETT is 23 BB height (with the Motos): 295
Steerer tube on front shock is 7.125 Has both disc and V mounts
(posts are removable).
Frame takes a 27.2 seatpost, 31.8 FD clamp and will clear up to a 2.5
tire.

email for photos or with ?s.


Nitto Periscopa stem $30 shipped

Also have both 8 and 9-spd Shimano bar ends and brake levers.


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[RBW] Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread kent

(posted to RBW Owner's Bunch and Surly LHT  CC groups... because for
some odd reason not everyone reads both!)

I drink Grant-flavored Kool Aid. I want an all-rounder on which to
commute, run errands, go camping, tag along with casual road rides, do
some short touring now and some long distance, unsupported and
possibly adventure-style touring in the future. I want a bike that can
be my only bike if I am ever so unfortunate (or committed to
minimalism) as to wind up in such a state.

After much wandering I have narrowed my choices down to two different
quasi-descendants of the Atlantis: the Rivendell Bombadil and the
Surly Long Haul

The LHT is dead on the sweet spot for price vs quality that I usually
shoot for. It's a bike that could do everything I want for many years
to come. It is a bike I would enjoy owning. This would be my third and
likely not my last Surly; I recently swapped a KM for a 1x1=11 and the
Big Dummy and the Conundrum are just begging me to come up with
excuses.

The Bombadil just pushes all my buttons. Although there are a couple
of Riv frames that I find 'prettier' I love the look, (And the AHH
just isn't beefy enough if I want to take 200lbs of rider + XXlbs of
gear down singletrack.) The Bullmoose bars make it even better. I've
seen a couple of pictures of great paint jobs, but I'd take mine clear
coated, it just fits. I even love the name and would likely
occasionally be seen to hum the song while I rode.

A Bombadil in my size would be 650b, and I'm still not 100% sold on
that. I've got no problem with them technically, just concerned about
what kind of variety of tires will continue to be available as I am
fond of options (the choices available now are great...)

Unique is a bonus in my book. The LHT isn't too common in the general
cycling world, but it is common lately in the touring world (a good
thing in my book, except if I'm on one!) Bombadil on the other hand is
about as unique as you get short of full custom or re-purposing
something non one else would think of riding long distances.

Ah, but then there's that cost... 3x as much for the frame and
unlikely to be built up nearly so economically as the LHT complete. Oh
well. As you can tell, I've pretty well sold myself on the Bombadil.
So why post this? Just to stir up some discussion, get some different
perspectives. How much more would you pay for the bike you really
wanted over the bike you knew would not only do the job, but even be
enjoyable?
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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

2009-10-07 Thread Ron Farnsworth
Without lanolin, wool fibers get more dry, stiff, and scratchy than with 
lanolin. They also don't shed water and sweat as well. Lanolin is one of the 
reasons wool works well in wet weather and doesn't need laundering nearly as 
often (I'm lazy) as most other farbics. It's part of the wool to start with and 
washing it out seems a not so great idea to me. I have 30+ year old cycling 
jerseys still in great shape, though I have mended a few holes over the years. 
I'm not sure it was moths that caused them, so I'm sticking with the lanolin.
The weavers might be right, but I haven't seen moths to be that much of a 
problem. You've got my curiosity up though, so now I'm off to see what more I 
can find on the subject. Thanks! 

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, rswat...@me.com rswat...@me.com wrote:


From: rswat...@me.com rswat...@me.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 11:09 AM



Lanolin is bad, or so I'm told. 
At the Taos, NM Wool festival, I
asked several weavers how they keep
moths and beetles from nibbling their fancy
woolies and they said the key was multiple,
thorough washings to remove the lanolin.  
Apparently the bugs are attracted to the 
lanolin rather than the wool fibers themselves.   
They also like human body oils and sweat, so it's
important to keep wool clothing clean. 
For this reason I wash my wool jerseys after each ride. 
I've used Ecover delicate wash for years with good results,
even on stuff labeled dry-clean only


Cheers,
Ryan





On Oct 7, 2009, at 7:07, Ron Farnsworth r2far...@yahoo.com wrote:








Kookaburra from Riv. Best stuff ever, the lanolin keeps the wool soft and it 
doesn't smell too bad.

--- On Wed, 10/7/09, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:


From: David Faller dfal...@charter.net
Subject: [RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 12:35 AM



#yiv2143704041 #yiv1705560116 .hmmessage P {
PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}
#yiv2143704041 #yiv1705560116 {
FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Verdana;}


Seems to me you're related to someone who knows more about this than us 
knuckleheads.  Listen to your expert!
 
Dave

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Powers 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:57 PM
Subject: [RBW] Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

It's an amazing day.  I just found my old Woolrich wool knickers.  I think 
these are early to mid 80's, so well over 20 years old.  I bought them when 
they were discontinued and only used them a couple of times before my middle 
aged spread rendered them unwearable.  I tired them on today and they fit 
again.  

I would like to clean them.  They are 85% wool and 15% nylon and say dry clean 
only.  My daughter says wash them by soaking in the tub with her super special 
wool cleaner (she weaves and knits and only works with wool).  I wash all my 
riding clothes including my Wooly Warms on the delicate cycle in my front 
loading machine using Ivory Snow.  Of course all washing is in cold water.  

Any opinions on the best approach?

Wool Rules.

Larry Powers 
 
Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain





Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.







  
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[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread newenglandbike

I have a Bombadil, and I'm pretty sure it's the nicest bike ever
made.Not just 'in my opinion', but really the nicest bike ever
made.  OK!  I guess to each his own, but I love mine sooo much.   It's
a 650b version, although I fall right in between the largest 650b size
(56cm) and the 700c size (60cm).I'm actually fixing to get another
Bombadil, because I like it so much.I want to have one for
dedicated mountain biking and one fully racked-out for touring and
carrying stuff.The bike will do both and I'm pretty sure this
frame will be around long after the apocalypse.

Anyway, Bombadil features that I think are good:  It has rack braze-
ons on the fork for low-riders, plus two mounts on dropouts front+rear
for fenders/racks.   It has rack mounts on the fork crown so you can
run a top-rack on the front. The fork bends have a decreasing
radius right to the dropout.   I'm not sure how much this adds to the
shock-absorbing properties of the fork-  all I can say is I barely
feel the bumps.I'm have the Schwalbe Fatty 45mm tires on it so
those help.   I love the second top-tube.   It adds (so I've read) 7
ounces of weight to the frame and untold strength, which means I can
ride with relative abandon and the freedom to hop curbs at speed
without worrying about the occasional nose-case (not the kind that
sends you OTB of course, those I *do* worry about obviously).The
Bombadil has an up-sloping top-tube so the bars are right where you
need them:  high.That means I can be on a 56cm frame and still
have the bars above the saddle, without even using extra quill to get
them there.

As far as how it handles-   it has a (relatively) slack HT angle and a
large offset, which puts the front wheel, again, where it needs to
be:  way out in front.Any steering-slowness introduced by the
slack HT must be counter-acted by the offset, because the bike
actually feels very nimble.I have 46cm noodle bars on mine, which
are plenty wide for riding offroad I think, although I might like to
try the bullmoose bars that Rivendell sells as well.On the other
hand, I feel like I know what the bullmooses will feel like since I
also ride BMX, and those bars will essentially turn the Bombadil into
a scaled-up BMX, which might not be good because then I'll forget I'm
not on my BMX, and do something stupid.

In summary, if you like fun, you can't afford *not* to get a
Bombadil.   I hope they sell a trillion of these things so that they
never stop making them.I hope Bombadils become so profitable to
sell that Exxon takes an interest and tries to buy Rivendell for 1
quadrillion dollars, but Rivendell says no, you guys suck and
eventually takes over Exxon and fires all the executives*.



*apologies if you are an executive at Exxon.  not really.


*of course it's my opinion, but still...

On Oct 7, 6:32 pm, kent broken.cy...@gmail.com wrote:
 (posted to RBW Owner's Bunch and Surly LHT  CC groups... because for
 some odd reason not everyone reads both!)

 I drink Grant-flavored Kool Aid. I want an all-rounder on which to
 commute, run errands, go camping, tag along with casual road rides, do
 some short touring now and some long distance, unsupported and
 possibly adventure-style touring in the future. I want a bike that can
 be my only bike if I am ever so unfortunate (or committed to
 minimalism) as to wind up in such a state.

 After much wandering I have narrowed my choices down to two different
 quasi-descendants of the Atlantis: the Rivendell Bombadil and the
 Surly Long Haul

 The LHT is dead on the sweet spot for price vs quality that I usually
 shoot for. It's a bike that could do everything I want for many years
 to come. It is a bike I would enjoy owning. This would be my third and
 likely not my last Surly; I recently swapped a KM for a 1x1=11 and the
 Big Dummy and the Conundrum are just begging me to come up with
 excuses.

 The Bombadil just pushes all my buttons. Although there are a couple
 of Riv frames that I find 'prettier' I love the look, (And the AHH
 just isn't beefy enough if I want to take 200lbs of rider + XXlbs of
 gear down singletrack.) The Bullmoose bars make it even better. I've
 seen a couple of pictures of great paint jobs, but I'd take mine clear
 coated, it just fits. I even love the name and would likely
 occasionally be seen to hum the song while I rode.

 A Bombadil in my size would be 650b, and I'm still not 100% sold on
 that. I've got no problem with them technically, just concerned about
 what kind of variety of tires will continue to be available as I am
 fond of options (the choices available now are great...)

 Unique is a bonus in my book. The LHT isn't too common in the general
 cycling world, but it is common lately in the touring world (a good
 thing in my book, except if I'm on one!) Bombadil on the other hand is
 about as unique as you get short of full custom or re-purposing
 something non one else would think of riding long distances.

 Ah, but then 

[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread Mike

Have you looked at the Salsa Fargo?

On Oct 7, 3:32 pm, kent broken.cy...@gmail.com wrote:
 (posted to RBW Owner's Bunch and Surly LHT  CC groups... because for
 some odd reason not everyone reads both!)

 I drink Grant-flavored Kool Aid. I want an all-rounder on which to
 commute, run errands, go camping, tag along with casual road rides, do
 some short touring now and some long distance, unsupported and
 possibly adventure-style touring in the future. I want a bike that can
 be my only bike if I am ever so unfortunate (or committed to
 minimalism) as to wind up in such a state.

 After much wandering I have narrowed my choices down to two different
 quasi-descendants of the Atlantis: the Rivendell Bombadil and the
 Surly Long Haul

 The LHT is dead on the sweet spot for price vs quality that I usually
 shoot for. It's a bike that could do everything I want for many years
 to come. It is a bike I would enjoy owning. This would be my third and
 likely not my last Surly; I recently swapped a KM for a 1x1=11 and the
 Big Dummy and the Conundrum are just begging me to come up with
 excuses.

 The Bombadil just pushes all my buttons. Although there are a couple
 of Riv frames that I find 'prettier' I love the look, (And the AHH
 just isn't beefy enough if I want to take 200lbs of rider + XXlbs of
 gear down singletrack.) The Bullmoose bars make it even better. I've
 seen a couple of pictures of great paint jobs, but I'd take mine clear
 coated, it just fits. I even love the name and would likely
 occasionally be seen to hum the song while I rode.

 A Bombadil in my size would be 650b, and I'm still not 100% sold on
 that. I've got no problem with them technically, just concerned about
 what kind of variety of tires will continue to be available as I am
 fond of options (the choices available now are great...)

 Unique is a bonus in my book. The LHT isn't too common in the general
 cycling world, but it is common lately in the touring world (a good
 thing in my book, except if I'm on one!) Bombadil on the other hand is
 about as unique as you get short of full custom or re-purposing
 something non one else would think of riding long distances.

 Ah, but then there's that cost... 3x as much for the frame and
 unlikely to be built up nearly so economically as the LHT complete. Oh
 well. As you can tell, I've pretty well sold myself on the Bombadil.
 So why post this? Just to stir up some discussion, get some different
 perspectives. How much more would you pay for the bike you really
 wanted over the bike you knew would not only do the job, but even be
 enjoyable?
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[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread newenglandbike

I just want to point out that the LHT is also well-known to be a
fantastic bike-   in many of the same ways as the Bombadil.
Incidentally, I also have an LHT and it is wonderful.  But you already
know the Surly is good, or you wouldn't own two already. Bottom
line is, either way you go, you'll be getting an unbelievable value.
It's actually a fine time to need a practical do-it-all bike, because
you have so many choices.

As for the Salsa Fargo, here's something that would bother me about
that frame:   It's not even close to being diamond shaped-   that is,
the front and rear triangles form a single, inverted triangle because
the seat-stays are almost inline with the top-tube.Besides
necessitating about two feet of exposed seat post, it seems to me that
this design compromises the fundamental strength of the classic
bicycle frame:   two abutted triangles forming a diamond shape that
tensions the seat-tube.Of course, it could be that they are using
much thicker butts in their tubing to counter any weakness this
introduces, but still, I don't see the point.





On Oct 7, 7:20 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Have you looked at the Salsa Fargo?

 On Oct 7, 3:32 pm, kent broken.cy...@gmail.com wrote:

  (posted to RBW Owner's Bunch and Surly LHT  CC groups... because for
  some odd reason not everyone reads both!)

  I drink Grant-flavored Kool Aid. I want an all-rounder on which to
  commute, run errands, go camping, tag along with casual road rides, do
  some short touring now and some long distance, unsupported and
  possibly adventure-style touring in the future. I want a bike that can
  be my only bike if I am ever so unfortunate (or committed to
  minimalism) as to wind up in such a state.

  After much wandering I have narrowed my choices down to two different
  quasi-descendants of the Atlantis: the Rivendell Bombadil and the
  Surly Long Haul

  The LHT is dead on the sweet spot for price vs quality that I usually
  shoot for. It's a bike that could do everything I want for many years
  to come. It is a bike I would enjoy owning. This would be my third and
  likely not my last Surly; I recently swapped a KM for a 1x1=11 and the
  Big Dummy and the Conundrum are just begging me to come up with
  excuses.

  The Bombadil just pushes all my buttons. Although there are a couple
  of Riv frames that I find 'prettier' I love the look, (And the AHH
  just isn't beefy enough if I want to take 200lbs of rider + XXlbs of
  gear down singletrack.) The Bullmoose bars make it even better. I've
  seen a couple of pictures of great paint jobs, but I'd take mine clear
  coated, it just fits. I even love the name and would likely
  occasionally be seen to hum the song while I rode.

  A Bombadil in my size would be 650b, and I'm still not 100% sold on
  that. I've got no problem with them technically, just concerned about
  what kind of variety of tires will continue to be available as I am
  fond of options (the choices available now are great...)

  Unique is a bonus in my book. The LHT isn't too common in the general
  cycling world, but it is common lately in the touring world (a good
  thing in my book, except if I'm on one!) Bombadil on the other hand is
  about as unique as you get short of full custom or re-purposing
  something non one else would think of riding long distances.

  Ah, but then there's that cost... 3x as much for the frame and
  unlikely to be built up nearly so economically as the LHT complete. Oh
  well. As you can tell, I've pretty well sold myself on the Bombadil.
  So why post this? Just to stir up some discussion, get some different
  perspectives. How much more would you pay for the bike you really
  wanted over the bike you knew would not only do the job, but even be
  enjoyable?
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[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread kent

When the Fargo first came out last year I was sure I would own one
eventually.  Now, the more I read about them, the less interested I
am.  I'm VERY glad they came out with it and even more glad to see
people enjoying them, but they're not quote what I'm looking for.  If
anyone is familiar with Devo on the MTBR forums, he commented recently
that the Fargo was headed in the right direction, but by comparison to
his beloved Rick Hunter frame it just got there all wrong.  That
struck a chord with me.  I guess the only specific thing I can point
to is that I don't want disc brakes on my all-rounder.  Oh, and I want
it to look at least a little pretty, not just... whatever adjective
you would use to describe the Fargo!  I have tentative plans to
eventually build up a custom fatbike, so if I ever do a tour too
gnarly for an LHT or Bombadil, that would be the weapon of choice.

On Oct 7, 6:20 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Have you looked at the Salsa Fargo?

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[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis

2009-10-07 Thread Mike

Kent, that's funny you mention Self-Propelled Devo, he's probably
helped sell so many Surly bikes. I've been following his Puglesy and
Big Dummy exploits via the MTBR forums (the Surly thread) for a few
years now. He is to Surly what Cyclofiend is to Rivendell, an
ambassador of sorts. That Rick Hunter SPD has is nice. My buddy that I
toured with this past summer is friends with Rick and rode his Hunter
cross bike. It's a solid ride.

But to bring this back to Rivendell... as much as I like Surly, and as
capable as builders such as Rick are, Rivendell does their bikes
really well. I think if you plunked down the extra bucks for a
Bombadil you wouldn't be disappointed. Let us know what you decide.

--mike
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[RBW] Re: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread R Gonet


On Oct 7, 11:06 am, Patrick in VT psh...@drm.com wrote:
 On Oct 6, 10:29 pm, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:

  So, if the only variable you're comparing is width, the difference between 
  30 and 33.3 is significant.  

 significant?  really?  what is significantly different about the jack
 brown and 32 pasela?  just curious.

3.3 mm., if the only variable you're comparing is width.  That's more
than a 10% difference.  Do you disagree?

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[RBW] Almost Free stuff...

2009-10-07 Thread rob markwardt


G. Petersen's book Roads to Ride.  1984, 89 version.  A guide to
rides around the bay area. A few nice bw photos with a colorful shot
of a young, handsome, bandanaed Grant on the back. A crease on the
cover but still good shape.

J and G touring shorts. Medium..supposed to be 28-32 but I'd say
28-30. .  Black, worn maybe 3-4 times.

A shrunken Walz wool cycling cap.  Black, was large but got mixed up
in the wash...and dry...so now it's a real small. I loved this cap
but it's now comical on my melon.  Still good shape..very
clean!.,however, when I got it I removed the elastic in the back so
it's a one size only...small head?  Take a chance.

How about $5 to cover shipping (either individually, or for two, or
for the bunch)

Rob


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[RBW] TOPIC: TYRES?

2009-10-07 Thread Jan Heine

So, if the only variable you're comparing is width, the 
difference between 30 and 33.3 is significant.  

  significant?  really?  what is significantly different about the jack
  brown and 32 pasela?  just curious.

3.3 mm., if the only variable you're comparing is width.  That's more
than a 10% difference.  Do you disagree?


The ride and shock absorption of a tire depends on the 
cross-sectional area, not the width. And the cross-section goes up as 
the square of the radius... so small increases in width bring large 
increases in comfort and shock absorption.

A 30 mm tire has a cross-sectional area of 707 mm2 (radius of 15 mm 
squared times pi).

A 33.3 mm tire has a cross-sectional area of 871 mm2.

A 40 mm tire has a cross-sectional area of 1257 mm2.

A 20 mm tire has a cross-sectional area of 314 mm2.

Thus, as a first approximation, the cross-sectional area of a 33.3 mm 
tire is 23% greater than that of a 30 mm tire. That is very 
significant.

And if you go to a 40 mm tire, you almost double the cross-sectional 
area compared to the 30 mm tire.

Compare that to a 20 mm tire with a cross-sectional area less than 
half of the 30 mm tire, or a quarter of the 40 mm tire.

Now you know why I ride 40 mm tires on the bikes that fit them. Even 
larger tires might be nice on some very rough roads, but you run out 
of room if you want a narrow crank tread (Q factor).

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
2116 Western Ave.
Seattle WA 98121
http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com

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[RBW] Re: Almost Free stuff...

2009-10-07 Thread rob markwardt

Hat gone..

On Oct 7, 9:03 pm, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 G. Petersen's book Roads to Ride.  1984, 89 version.  A guide to
 rides around the bay area. A few nice bw photos with a colorful shot
 of a young, handsome, bandanaed Grant on the back. A crease on the
 cover but still good shape.

 J and G touring shorts. Medium..supposed to be 28-32 but I'd say
 28-30. .  Black, worn maybe 3-4 times.

 How about $5 to cover shipping (either individually, or for two, or
 for the bunch)

 Rob
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[RBW] Re: news post about the Yen

2009-10-07 Thread Phil Brown



On Oct 7, 12:12 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 3:10 PM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

  Regarding Nitto, I think it would be prohibitively costly for an
  American company to acquire the tooling necessary for forging stems,
  etc...   Well, maybe prohibitive is not the right word-- what I mean
  is unattractive from a business standpoint.

  On the other hand, there ARE great companies right here in the U.S.
  who machine fine aluminum products, for example Super Rat Machine
  works:

 http://www.superratmachine.com/

  Super Rat Machine Works was started by Phil Wasson, an insanely
  talented BMX rider once associated with the (also Made-in-USA) frame
  company called FBM.  SRM makes very good parts.

 I'm confused - in the earlier riv readers I thought I had read that
 riv had paid for the tooling for some of the specific parts they
 wanted. Why can't those be transferred to another manufacturer? Or
 maybe I'm misremembering.

 -sv

First, if we're talking about stems machining is a poor way to go
about it. Forging provides the best grain alignment.
And tooling is typically machine dependent and it's unlikely that 2
companies would have the same machinery.
Phil Brown

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[RBW] Re: Almost Free stuff...

2009-10-07 Thread rob markwardt

shorts gone.

On Oct 7, 9:03 pm, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 G. Petersen's book Roads to Ride.  1984, 89 version.  A guide to
 rides around the bay area. A few nice bw photos with a colorful shot
 of a young, handsome, bandanaed Grant on the back. A crease on the
 cover but still good shape.

 J and G touring shorts. Medium..supposed to be 28-32 but I'd say
 28-30. .  Black, worn maybe 3-4 times.

 A shrunken Walz wool cycling cap.  Black, was large but got mixed up
 in the wash...and dry...so now it's a real small. I loved this cap
 but it's now comical on my melon.  Still good shape..very
 clean!.,however, when I got it I removed the elastic in the back so
 it's a one size only...small head?  Take a chance.

 How about $5 to cover shipping (either individually, or for two, or
 for the bunch)

 Rob
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