[RBW] Re: What's in Your Saddlebag?

2010-01-30 Thread Mike
Yes on the flickr group.

I have a small pouch that contains some glueless patches, hex wrench
set, tire levers, chain tool, and and emergency boot (Park, but I know
a $1 bill also works nicely). I own a number of bags--Carradice
Barley, Carradice Nelson LF, Sackville XS saddlesack, Sackville small
trunksack, and a Berthoud HB bag.

Lately I've really been into the the small trunksack mounted on a
Mark's rack. I'll put my tool pouch in there with a tube or two,
lightweigth rain jacket, an energy bar or two and some Advil and
electrolyte pills. Oh, and usually a small book. The trunksack is
perfect for rides on familiar roads. The xs saddlesacks is great and
works nicely with the trunksack on longer rides. I may use that set-up
for the 300k later this year.

The Carradice bags are great, especially the Barley. I generally use
my Nelson on rides around town when I'll have my u-lock and might be
running errands.
Last year I purchased a Berthoud HB bag and really like it and will
definitely use it on longer brevets. The mapcase on the top is great
for holding and a cue sheet and reading it while riding. Also, the bag
is easily accessible while riding. I feel like I'm still searching for
the right decaleur.

Sometimes though, it's nice to get out with just a burrito wrap
containing a Park mini tool (MT-1), tube, tire levers and a few
patches. It's nice to have options.

Perhaps I'll rig up something like this later in the year:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/4272690571/

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bikepacking article in Reader

2010-01-30 Thread Horace
What are you guys talking about?

On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 10:27 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:

 on 1/29/10 5:20 PM, rcnute at rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

  Jim, is this Riv-centric enough to go on the Cyclofiend website?  If
  so let me know and I can send you the .jpgs.

 If you've got the scans, I've got the disk space ;^)

 - J

 --
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[RBW] cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread Seth Vidal
Can anyone see any problems that I have missed with this headlight mounting:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316208172/in/photostream/

and

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316210410/in/photostream/

it all works fine and I can get the light to move up and down and I
can reach over and turn it on from the saddle but I just wanted to be
sure I wasn't missing any other potential problems.

thanks!

-sv

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Re: [RBW] cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread Eric Norris

Nice install, but I would add a zip tie on the fork down near the hub.

On Jan 30, 2010, at 8:41 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

Can anyone see any problems that I have missed with this headlight  
mounting:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316208172/in/photostream/

and

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316210410/in/photostream/

it all works fine and I can get the light to move up and down and I
can reach over and turn it on from the saddle but I just wanted to be
sure I wasn't missing any other potential problems.

thanks!

-sv

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[RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread Jude
Below are the links I was thinking of.

I am not a bike mechanic and would appreciate corrections.  I
understand a 1/8 chain to have traditional bushings and the 3/32 to
have a redesigned bushing.  Both opinions below seem to lean toward
3/32, in the general sense.  I'm not sure if this is true in the
fixed/single context but I don't think you can use 1/8 for a bicycle
that shifts (non-IG).

Jobst Brandt
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Sheldon Brown
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

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[RBW] Re: this oughta be a motto for this group

2010-01-30 Thread Earl Grey
Hhm,

I only have 3, and spread over 2 continents, and one is supposedly for
sale as part of the Sam Hillborne Aquisition Agreement (but it didn't
sell, hehe). What am I doing wrong? (Okay, plus 2 tandems, but I count
those as my wife's bikes, which evens the count at 3.) Can I tell my
wife I own the fewest bikes on the entire list?

To whit:

1990 Fisher Sphinx monstercross (commuting, group mountain bike rides
where it's usually the only unsuspended bike, loaded touring, fast
road club rides (bit heavy for that, couldn't really take my turn
pulling the paceline for long, now often the loaner bike)

1997 Indy Fab Planet-X (for fast club rides AND off-roading, to allow
to Fisher to sport fenders year-round, but doesn't quite fit 42mm
knobbies; Shimergo Veloce/XTR drive train, works great!). This one's
for sale, replaced with:

2009 Sam (don't really do fast club rides anymore; it's pretty much a
much nicer, lugged and lighter Fisher Sphinx, and I'll probably always
have one set up with smooth tires (Jack Browns) and the other with
knobbies (IRC Mythos Slicks 42mm))

I guess my problem is that I really love all-rounders, and just can't
get myself to buy a more specialized bike. And how many all-rounders
does one really need? (Waiting for your creative answers.)

My wife's bikes:

2008 Raleigh mixte market bike (came stock with fenders, basket,
kickstand, lugged frame, chain guard, rear drum brake, 5 speed drive
train, and *passanger seat with foot pegs* (for adults!; Sometimes I
take her out to dinner on it.) Bought here in Thailand for about $100
new)

2008 Tank mtn tandem (Just says Tank, made in Taiwan, appears to
be a decent serious mtn tandem frame, clear-coated aluminum with
tribal flame tattoo decals and zero BB drop for serious stump
jumping. Set up for touring and mixed road/off-road riding in
Thailand; Pretty much the only tandem we could buy in Thailand, and
was bought sight unseen (meaning, no photo, no spec sheet, no nothing;
we were told aluminum frame, Avid disc brakes, 9 speed drive train;
almost true: came with crappy Tektro IO brakes, but Avid brake levers,
and it really did have a 9 speed drive train, i.e. one chainring, no
front derailer!)

1993 Ibis Uncle Fester tandem, 26 wheels, set up for road (the Cousin-
It's poor cousin, I mean uncle; same frame, cheaper components: DX
instead of XT; this and the Indy Fab are in storage in the US awaiting
our return).

Cheers,

Gernot


On Jan 20, 1:05 pm, pruckelshaus pruckelsh...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have four:
 * Klein mountain bike...honestly, it's never even been really off
 road, but it's perfect for riding around the neighborhood and the bike
 trails with my kids.
 * Rambouillet with Dura Ace 7700 STI triple stuff mostly
 * Specialized Allez steel with downtube shifters and nice, fat
 tubulars for when I want to get kinky
 * Shopping bike - Schwinn Prelude frame, parts out of the bin, for
 trips to the store.

 The loophole - a Burly Rock-n-Road tandem that doesn't get ridden
 very much because it just doesn't fit me all that well.  I should
 probably sell it.

 And on deck - I'm building a randonneur style frame, 73 parallel
 angles, 57cm square, 435mm stays, low BB out of Columbus SPX.  I've
 got all of the main triangle miters done, will spend this week
 cleaning up the tubes and lugs, and will tack braze it next week.
 This will replace the 60cm Rambouillet, which is right sized per
 Riv, but still feels way too big even after a year of riding it.  The
 sad thing is, even though this is my first frame, I'm already thinking
 about the second.

 The only bike I would add to this is a true classic of some
 sort...along the lines of a full NR Paramount, Cinelli Super Corsa, or
 an originally equipped Peugeot PX-10.

 Pete

 On Jan 18, 11:37 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:



  From RR 42beta:

  How many bikes?
  Seven is good. A beater a bomber, a single-speed,
  a touring bike, a lightish road bike, a do-all
  racked and bagged bike, a mixte, a loaner, and
  a work in progress. Seven? Make it nine.

  I LOVE THIS.
  LOVE.

  -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: this oughta be a motto for this group

2010-01-30 Thread BPustow
It's not a question of need - it's a question of want  (raise your 
voice and stomp your foot)!. ...no, wait, that one  didn't go over 
well with the wife.
Bill
 
 
In a message dated 1/30/2010 11:54:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
earlg...@gmail.com writes:

And how  many all-rounders
does one really need? (Waiting for your creative  answers.)

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking article in Reader

2010-01-30 Thread rcnute
See http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/212/original_RR42.pdf at p.
22.

Ryan


On Jan 30, 8:34 am, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:
 What are you guys talking about?

 On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 10:27 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:

  on 1/29/10 5:20 PM, rcnute at rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

   Jim, is this Riv-centric enough to go on the Cyclofiend website?  If
   so let me know and I can send you the .jpgs.

  If you've got the scans, I've got the disk space ;^)

  - J

  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] SoCal Double Century

2010-01-30 Thread Eric Norris
Just wondering if anyone else on this list will be riding the Camino Real 
Double Century on Feb 20?  I'll be there on my green Riv Road.

More info here in case you're looking for an all-day ride:

http://www.planetultra.com/butterfield/index.html

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



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[RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread Jeremy Till
I think the way things are now, if you're running a single cog setup
with a good chainline, 1/8 and 3/32 are pretty much
interchangeable.  I prefer running 3/32 because your options for
chainrings are much wider- it's hard to find 1/8 chainrings that
aren't BMX (i.e. spiderless) or track (usually 144bcd and in the 46-52
range) specific.  That being said, you can run a 3/32 chainring with
1/8 chain and cog with no real issues- i've never experienced that
set up wearing faster or any differently.   I like having things
matchy-matchy so if I'm starting from scratch i like to have all 3/32
stuff.

On the other hand, if you've got a setup like the stock QB where the
chain will be out of line some of the time (or even a plain old flip-
flop, often times there's a slight difference in chainline between the
fixed cog and freewheel), 3/32 is better because is more laterally
flexible and will handle the displacement with less noise and risk of
derailment.  1/8 can handle it (early derailers, like pre-5 spd, used
1/8 chains), but it's not what it's made for so it'll be more
finicky.

I'll leave the bushing vs. bushingless debate to people like sheldon
(rip), peter w., and jobst.


On Jan 30, 8:50 am, Jude jeic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Below are the links I was thinking of.

 I am not a bike mechanic and would appreciate corrections.  I
 understand a 1/8 chain to have traditional bushings and the 3/32 to
 have a redesigned bushing.  Both opinions below seem to lean toward
 3/32, in the general sense.  I'm not sure if this is true in the
 fixed/single context but I don't think you can use 1/8 for a bicycle
 that shifts (non-IG).

 Jobst Brandthttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

 Sheldon Brownhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

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[RBW] Re: cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread J. Burkhalter
Great install Seth!  The steel mount that comes with the Cyo is very
strong, and a big improvement over some of the stamped mounts out
there.  And you shouldn't have any wheel shadow issues with the light
way out front.  Maybe add a zip tie to secure the wire to the fork.

I love the Cyo and have mounted them in several configurations.  My
favorite installs are on my bikes with front racks (Nitto Mark's Rack
or Nitto Mini Front).  By using Nitto rack hardware (a bent rack
strut, rack bolt, and washer -- http://tinyurl.com/yakk4ec) I position
the headlight to the right or left of the rack just below the rack
shelf.  This placement tucks the headlight out of the way (typically
under my rando bag or a basket) and still very accessible.  I don't
have any pics of this exact configuration handy, but these photos of
the crude hack on my QB show the placement using a piece of aluminum
stock I had laying around.

http://tinyurl.com/y9djoa5
http://tinyurl.com/yd6hw84

For a much cleaner looking installation, one can attach a Nitto bent
rack strut to one of the rear mounting holes (using the  in either of
the Nitto front racks.  Remove the steel mount from the headlight, and
bolt the Cyo to the hole in the end of the bent rack strut.  Position
the light in a similar position as shown in the photos above, and
tighten everything up.

I've been meaning to post pictures of the setup for a while, but just
haven't gotten around to it.  Hopefully, this description makes
sense.

-Jay
Denver, CO


On Jan 30, 9:41 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can anyone see any problems that I have missed with this headlight mounting:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316208172/in/photostream/

 and

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/4316210410/in/photostream/

 it all works fine and I can get the light to move up and down and I
 can reach over and turn it on from the saddle but I just wanted to be
 sure I wasn't missing any other potential problems.

 thanks!

 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: this oughta be a motto for this group

2010-01-30 Thread Rene Sterental
Get her a Cartier Love Bracelet and all of a sudden, you can have more
bikes... :-D

On 1/30/10, bpus...@aol.com bpus...@aol.com wrote:
 It's not a question of need - it's a question of want  (raise your
 voice and stomp your foot)!. ...no, wait, that one  didn't go
 over
 well with the wife.
 Bill


 In a message dated 1/30/2010 11:54:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
 earlg...@gmail.com writes:

 And how  many all-rounders
 does one really need? (Waiting for your creative  answers.)

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[RBW] WTB: 58cm Quickbeam

2010-01-30 Thread Fausto
Hi,

I'm looking for a 58cm Quickbeam. Complete, or frame only. No
preference on color.

Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread CycloFiend

The only thing I'll add is that 1/8 can run a little noisily on a 3/32
setup.  There's a little more noise in a QB drivetrain because the chainline
is not absolutely straight - thank goodness for a lot of rock 'n roll
concerts in my youth, so it doesn't really bother me...

It's minimal though.  I think...

- J clanking, what clanking?

(heading out on the QB after working all morning...)

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Your Photos are needed! - http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines


Steel's what you want for a messenger bike.  Weight. Big basket up front.
Not cardboard with some crazy aramid shit wrapped around it, weighs about as
much as a sandwich.
-- William Gibson, Virtual Light



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Re: [RBW] Re: cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread Seth Vidal
On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 2:22 PM, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Great install Seth!  The steel mount that comes with the Cyo is very
 strong, and a big improvement over some of the stamped mounts out
 there.  And you shouldn't have any wheel shadow issues with the light
 way out front.  Maybe add a zip tie to secure the wire to the fork.

I added a ziptie to keep the cable out of the way. I haven't
heat-shrunk the connectors in place, yet, I'll probably do that
tonight.


 For a much cleaner looking installation, one can attach a Nitto bent
 rack strut to one of the rear mounting holes (using the  in either of
 the Nitto front racks.  Remove the steel mount from the headlight, and
 bolt the Cyo to the hole in the end of the bent rack strut.  Position
 the light in a similar position as shown in the photos above, and
 tighten everything up.

 I've been meaning to post pictures of the setup for a while, but just
 haven't gotten around to it.  Hopefully, this description makes
 sense.


I would need a spare of the bolt/washer combos - but I do have the
spare nitto strut. That's a good idea and it would get the light down
a little more.

The one thing I do like is having the light mounted to the front
center of the bike. I've never quite understood the virtue of mounting
it to the right of the front wheel. On another bike I have where I
have a lamp mounted to the right of the front wheel there is a lot of
light reflected off of the front rim back up at me. I understand the
hub connector is on the right side of the bike but there's enough
cable to get over to the left, why aren't more lights on bikes mounted
to the left?

Thanks for the suggestion!
-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread Eric Norris
I ran my headlight on the righthand fork blade for several years without any 
problems.  The light casts a shadow of the rim and tire, but it never affected 
my ability to see the road.  

I don't like lefthand mounting because of the need to wrap or zip-tie all of 
the wire to get from the hub to the light.

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



On Jan 30, 2010, at 2:00 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

 The one thing I do like is having the light mounted to the front
 center of the bike. I've never quite understood the virtue of mounting
 it to the right of the front wheel. On another bike I have where I
 have a lamp mounted to the right of the front wheel there is a lot of
 light reflected off of the front rim back up at me. I understand the
 hub connector is on the right side of the bike but there's enough
 cable to get over to the left, why aren't more lights on bikes mounted
 to the left?
 
 Thanks for the suggestion!
 -sv
 
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--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



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Re: [RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE
The original deraileurs shifted 1/8 chain, if I remember correctly what I
read in The Dancing Chain. You need more space between cogs, of course. My
bastard (or hybrid) AW/16-18/Benelux rd drivetrain, age 16, ran a 1/8
chain.

Patrick not a bike mechanic either, tho' I play one on TV Moore

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Jude jeic...@gmail.com wrote:

 Below are the links I was thinking of.

 I am not a bike mechanic and would appreciate corrections.  I
 understand a 1/8 chain to have traditional bushings and the 3/32 to
 have a redesigned bushing.  Both opinions below seem to lean toward
 3/32, in the general sense.  I'm not sure if this is true in the
 fixed/single context but I don't think you can use 1/8 for a bicycle
 that shifts (non-IG).

 Jobst Brandt
 http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

 Sheldon Brown
 http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 1:20 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:


 The only thing I'll add is that 1/8 can run a little noisily on a 3/32
 setup.

 Not my experience; usually the contrary. 1/8 runs quieter on everything --
perhaps for irrelevant reasons.



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[RBW] Re: cyo headlight mounting

2010-01-30 Thread J. Burkhalter
I hear ya on the right side mounting.  I've always put them on the
left, and I can't recall why I put this one on the right.  I'm sure I
had my excellent reasons at the time though ;-)

BTW, when I said for a much cleaner looking installation I meant
cleaner than the hack job on my QB and not your super neat install on
the Atlantis.

I don't know if you're running a dyno rear light, but if so and you've
found a clean and sharp way of running the wire to the rear, I'd love
to see it.

-Jay
Denver, CO

On Jan 30, 3:00 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 2:22 PM, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Great install Seth!  The steel mount that comes with the Cyo is very
  strong, and a big improvement over some of the stamped mounts out
  there.  And you shouldn't have any wheel shadow issues with the light
  way out front.  Maybe add a zip tie to secure the wire to the fork.

 I added a ziptie to keep the cable out of the way. I haven't
 heat-shrunk the connectors in place, yet, I'll probably do that
 tonight.

  For a much cleaner looking installation, one can attach a Nitto bent
  rack strut to one of the rear mounting holes (using the  in either of
  the Nitto front racks.  Remove the steel mount from the headlight, and
  bolt the Cyo to the hole in the end of the bent rack strut.  Position
  the light in a similar position as shown in the photos above, and
  tighten everything up.

  I've been meaning to post pictures of the setup for a while, but just
  haven't gotten around to it.  Hopefully, this description makes
  sense.

 I would need a spare of the bolt/washer combos - but I do have the
 spare nitto strut. That's a good idea and it would get the light down
 a little more.

 The one thing I do like is having the light mounted to the front
 center of the bike. I've never quite understood the virtue of mounting
 it to the right of the front wheel. On another bike I have where I
 have a lamp mounted to the right of the front wheel there is a lot of
 light reflected off of the front rim back up at me. I understand the
 hub connector is on the right side of the bike but there's enough
 cable to get over to the left, why aren't more lights on bikes mounted
 to the left?

 Thanks for the suggestion!
 -sv

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[RBW] FS: Riv-ish Kogswell G; Components, Parts, Accessories

2010-01-30 Thread Curtis Schmitt
http://tinyurl.com/y9efmrp

All is being sold via ebay. For anyone on this list I will take 5% off
BIN for any bike listed, 10% off any components, parts or accessories
(including complete Schmidt set-up). Just use the Make Offer button.
If you go this route and/or contact me via ebay, please just mention
you're from the list. There will be much more up tomorrow.

All proceeds will be going towards a brand new Riv. :)

Thanks,
Curtis

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[RBW] Re: QB drivetrain questions

2010-01-30 Thread Mike
I traded out the 1/8 chain for a 3/32 chain. Hopefully I'll be on
this bike next weekend.   I'm excited to see how it rides. The frame
looks huge! It's a 64 so it's just a tad bigger than my Hilsen (63cm)
yet seems bigger. I know the BB is a bit higher and the HT angle just
a tad steeper. But then again, I've always felt my 62cm Rambouillet
was just a tad small...

After reading about Cyclofiend's 200k I'm tempted to use the QB for
the upcoming Birkie 200k in March. Perhaps this year's goal for
randonneuring will be to do the whole series on the QB.

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Cleaning a Winter Drivetrain

2010-01-30 Thread CycloFiend
on 1/30/10 5:44 PM, Mark Hall at onmybikem...@gmail.com wrote:

 Got me 63 AHH all fendered up and out on the wet and dirty roads now.
 First time I have ever really done much winter riding. Need some
 recommendations about how often and best method to keep the bike -
 drivetrain, derailleurs, etc - clean.
 Been thoroughly enjoying riding in the wet and with dark clouds above.

Hi Mark - 

Congrats on the Hilsen! I'm sure you'll find it to be a grand partner in
adventure.

You don't say where you are riding, and under what conditions.  For me,
winter riding is generally rain (rather than snow, slush and salted roads),
so I use a bit wetter lube that will stay on the chain links better.  I'll
let it get pretty grody looking, as long as it's moving smoothly.  Once it
sounds crunchy - like after a mixed terrain ride - I'll clean everything,
make sure it's dry and then relube.

Water/rain is not necessarily bad.  Mud and silt worked into the lube like a
ginding paste will eat componentry quickly.  Keep an eye on the chain wear
and don't be afraid to pull the chain when it stretches.

Pay attention to the conditions in which your bike gets stored, too.
Leaving a dry chain overnight in a damp garage can cause it to be rusty by
the next morning. 

I use hot, soapy water to clean the drivetrain, then use a solvent brush to
get any residue off the sprockets or chainrings. If anything is really caked
on, I'll get the SimpleGreen out in various dilutions.

In terms of when to clean it... Well, here's a good example of a dirty
drivetrain:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gzahnd/3285966758

I'd say before you get to that point.


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cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the
anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace.

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[RBW] 57 Hilsen Complete on the block

2010-01-30 Thread CycloFiend
...auction block, that is.

No, not mine (which is a 59), and I have no idea whose this is. But, there's
a fully set up 57 cm Hilsen on the 'bay, with a reserve and interested
parties already bidding (and ~5 days to go).

http://tinyurl.com/yg5m3mc


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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv-ish Kogswell G; Components, Parts, Accessories

2010-01-30 Thread manueljohnacosta
Glad it's going to a good cause

On Jan 30, 5:27 pm, Curtis Schmitt curtisrschm...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://tinyurl.com/y9efmrp

 All is being sold via ebay. For anyone on this list I will take 5% off
 BIN for any bike listed, 10% off any components, parts or accessories
 (including complete Schmidt set-up). Just use the Make Offer button.
 If you go this route and/or contact me via ebay, please just mention
 you're from the list. There will be much more up tomorrow.

 All proceeds will be going towards a brand new Riv. :)

 Thanks,
 Curtis

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